My drum was seized after the car sat in storage over the Winter. I was getting ready to thread in some bolts to force it off, when I found this video. So glad! You saved me a LOT of extra frustration and damage. Thank you.
Excellent explanation to release the trapped brake drum! Once I get the drum off I use my 4 inch grinder with a flap disc to remove the lip that has trapped the brake shoes. Usually the drum still has plenty of life left.
Thank you G RP, using a flap disc on that edge is an awesome idea and you're right. I felt that they had another 15k or so left on them. I need to pick up a smaller angle grinder for my home shop.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs :)
Excellent tip so thank you for sharing your wisdom! I’m about to work on my Yaris tomorrow morning and this tip will certainly be helpful. Especially since I don’t have the recommended bolts to pry the drum out.
Hello Justusdoescount83, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs!
@@vbared How were you able to get your head behind the wheel to see what you were doing? I even used a camera to watch what I was doing and couldn’t spin the nut. I’m working on a 2013 Yaris and there’s not much room to work behind the wheel.
@@vbared I could get my flathead in there but it didn’t feel like I was spinning the nut. I really thought I was turning it the way you showed but maybe I’m wrong. Very tedious process.
@@Lifeinlivingcolors There is a little bent piece of metal the keeps that cog from loosening. You will need to feel around for it. Pull it away from the cog using a pick tool, which would be towards the inside wheel well, then while holding it away from the cog roll it up if working on the passenger side and down if working on the driver's side. Yeah, it is a bit of a pain until you do it once.
Hi David, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Yeah, I hear you. What I do is look at how much thread I can see through the peep hole. Less thread showing means the shoes will be closer together (aka moving away from the drum), more thread showing is further apart (moving closer to the drum). Best of luck with your repairs!
Struggling with similar issue, had the shoes and hardware replaced but same worn drums and my car feels like crap vibrating, drove about 2 weeks like this and finally got my new drums in. Did it solve your vibration issue? Thanks for video I need to fix this and let you know it goes
Hello Make it Nice, Thank you for commenting. Yes, switching out the drum solved it for me. The old drums were so old that about 1/8 of an inch of material was worn away on the inside. My advice would be to inspect the inside surface of the drum. If there is a groove worn into it, I would replace them. It's a simple repair just take your time, clean all the hardware really well, and put a little bearing grease on the pin that inserts into the adjustment spur. Best of luck with your repairs!
@@vbared thanks again Vik, did your trick today plus the softest blow with a rubber mallet and poof off it came, now with new drums it feels much better! now to chase dowm the remaining vibrations and get new front rotors I think 👍
@@makeit.nice1111 Great job making the repair. Figuring out the cause of vibrations is a pain. Does it vibrate all the time? If so look for bends in your rim, vibrations at certain speeds? If so check wheel balance. Sometimes a stick on weight can fling off or does the vibration happen just when braking?
Hi Christopher, Thank you for commenting. I haven't done it but, all the needed elements are there. Check out this video from the UK version of the Yaris - ruclips.net/video/Le_Qodwr6gk/видео.html
the manual for my 2012 yaris states the wheel nuts should be tightened to 76fp. i was going to change my brake drums but having seen this about the 'lip' on the edge i don't think i'll bother - looks like too much hassle.
Hello Edward, Thank you for commenting. Yes, you're 100% on the money. Thank you for pointing it out. I should have used the 76ft lbs indicated in the service manual in the video. I'll add a correction in the description. The lip worn into the inside of the drum brake surface may not be deep on a car with lower miles. My Yaris had about 350k on the odometer before I changed out the drums. Best of luck with your repairs.
Hi friend, you may have to turn the little adjuster cog to bring the new brake shoes closer together. Keep adjusting it until the drum fits over them. Once it's on it should rotate without any dragging. If it's dragging adjust it a bit more.
My drum was seized after the car sat in storage over the Winter. I was getting ready to thread in some bolts to force it off, when I found this video. So glad! You saved me a LOT of extra frustration and damage. Thank you.
Hello David, Thank you for commenting. I'm happy you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent explanation to release the trapped brake drum! Once I get the drum off I use my 4 inch grinder with a flap disc to remove the lip that has trapped the brake shoes. Usually the drum still has plenty of life left.
Thank you G RP, using a flap disc on that edge is an awesome idea and you're right. I felt that they had another 15k or so left on them. I need to pick up a smaller angle grinder for my home shop.
Out of all the vidios i have seen to get the drums off your the first to mention the adjustment at the back of the wheel thankyou
Hello Bill, Thank you for commenting, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs!
Omg. Thank you for this gold information. Im about to change mine and you save me lots of head aches. I appreciate you !!
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs :)
Excellent tip so thank you for sharing your wisdom! I’m about to work on my Yaris tomorrow morning and this tip will certainly be helpful. Especially since I don’t have the recommended bolts to pry the drum out.
Hi Sergio, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs.
Thanks so much man. I’m in the process of changing a broken stud and you saved me a lot of trouble. Have a nice day!
Hello Justusdoescount83, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs!
@@vbared How were you able to get your head behind the wheel to see what you were doing? I even used a camera to watch what I was doing and couldn’t spin the nut. I’m working on a 2013 Yaris and there’s not much room to work behind the wheel.
@@Lifeinlivingcolors Yeah, If I recall it was tight but can be done mostly by feel using a short flat head screwdriver.
@@vbared I could get my flathead in there but it didn’t feel like I was spinning the nut. I really thought I was turning it the way you showed but maybe I’m wrong. Very tedious process.
@@Lifeinlivingcolors There is a little bent piece of metal the keeps that cog from loosening. You will need to feel around for it. Pull it away from the cog using a pick tool, which would be towards the inside wheel well, then while holding it away from the cog roll it up if working on the passenger side and down if working on the driver's side. Yeah, it is a bit of a pain until you do it once.
I always forget which why to turn that cog. When you under the car and contorted it's easy to be disoriented to which way it's moving. Great video.
Hi David, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Yeah, I hear you. What I do is look at how much thread I can see through the peep hole. Less thread showing means the shoes will be closer together (aka moving away from the drum), more thread showing is further apart (moving closer to the drum).
Best of luck with your repairs!
@@vbared that's a great way to do a quick verify if I'm spinning the cog the right direction. Thanks again.
@@davidg5704 Anytime, David (:
Struggling with similar issue, had the shoes and hardware replaced but same worn drums and my car feels like crap vibrating, drove about 2 weeks like this and finally got my new drums in. Did it solve your vibration issue? Thanks for video I need to fix this and let you know it goes
Hello Make it Nice, Thank you for commenting. Yes, switching out the drum solved it for me. The old drums were so old that about 1/8 of an inch of material was worn away on the inside. My advice would be to inspect the inside surface of the drum. If there is a groove worn into it, I would replace them.
It's a simple repair just take your time, clean all the hardware really well, and put a little bearing grease on the pin that inserts into the adjustment spur.
Best of luck with your repairs!
@@vbared thanks again Vik, did your trick today plus the softest blow with a rubber mallet and poof off it came, now with new drums it feels much better!
now to chase dowm the remaining vibrations and get new front rotors I think 👍
@@makeit.nice1111 Great job making the repair. Figuring out the cause of vibrations is a pain. Does it vibrate all the time? If so look for bends in your rim, vibrations at certain speeds? If so check wheel balance. Sometimes a stick on weight can fling off or does the vibration happen just when braking?
Very instructive ! Thank you 😉
Hi Alain, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Enjoy your week :)
Is it possible to put disc brakes on the rear of the car to replace the drum brakes
Hi Christopher, Thank you for commenting. I haven't done it but, all the needed elements are there. Check out this video from the UK version of the Yaris - ruclips.net/video/Le_Qodwr6gk/видео.html
the manual for my 2012 yaris states the wheel nuts should be tightened to 76fp. i was going to change my brake drums but having seen this about the 'lip' on the edge i don't think i'll bother - looks like too much hassle.
Hello Edward, Thank you for commenting. Yes, you're 100% on the money. Thank you for pointing it out. I should have used the 76ft lbs indicated in the service manual in the video. I'll add a correction in the description.
The lip worn into the inside of the drum brake surface may not be deep on a car with lower miles. My Yaris had about 350k on the odometer before I changed out the drums.
Best of luck with your repairs.
Thank you for the great video and advice.
Hello Ernesto, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs!
Nailed it. ❤ thanks.
Thank you, friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs.
@@vbared yes I did gained valuable info. Thankyou very much.💖
Thanks for the help!
Hi Carlos, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs!
great video. Thanks!
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your repairs!
I can’t fit the rotor back on. Having trouble
Hi friend, you may have to turn the little adjuster cog to bring the new brake shoes closer together. Keep adjusting it until the drum fits over them. Once it's on it should rotate without any dragging. If it's dragging adjust it a bit more.
It is very hard to see, though, and hard to find out the correct direction of turning.
Yes, it is tricky to figure out which way to adjust them since you can only see the cog through the small cutout.
This is next to impossible
Hello, Thank you for commenting. Please elaborate on the trouble you're having so I can try and offer a suggestion.
Boy these drum are $60 each in UK!
Ouch! About double for you.