DIY Toyota Yaris Rear Brake Shoe Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Brake Shoes (low cost): geni.us/Yaris_Rear_Shoes_LC
Brake Shoes (Nicer): geni.us/Yaris_Rear_Shoes_Best
Drums (if yours are scored due to metal-on-metal): geni.us/Yaris_Rear_Drums
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Today I'm replacing the rear brake shoes on my Daughters 2008 Toyota Yaris. Check the links for brake shoes and replacement rotors (if necessary), and the other tools and parts required to complete the job. Always put in your exact car model to be sure these parts fit. This process isn't as easy as disk brakes, but it is totally doable with only a few tools.
Note, that if you need to use a bolt to remove the drums, I misquoted it as a 1/4-20 bolt. It is really a 8mm-1.25mm.
Full rebuild kit (brakes, rotor, springs, everything): geni.us/Yaris_Rear_Rebuild_Kit
Spring Removal Tool: geni.us/Brake_Spring_Tool
The links above are Amazon Associate affiliated which means that without costing you a dime, I get a small commission when you use. Thanks so much for the support!
Dan
dtdw@danholt.net
0:00 Introduction
1:21 Loosen each lug-nut
3:42 Put on gloves
3:54 Spray with brake clean
7:48 First set of gloves
9:21 Use a new cotter pin
14:32 Add grease before assembling
16:08 Second set of gloves...
18:48 Third set of gloves... 
Авто/Мото
Good job, but personally I would have slackened the parling brake cable first. That way the cable lever on the shoes will be set back to the limit. If any past ajustments were made the lever does not go home enough, this will make the cable come off the lever easier.
After fitting left and right side shoes and adjusting, whilst on the jack stands, adjust the parking brake. Hence the cable has maximum effecked of shoe contact. But hey, we all have our own ways of working!!
I worked in the motor trade for 54 years, just saying not at all bragging. but I sincerely enjoyed watching your video of this tricky awkward job
well done and great camera work. very informative.
Thanks for your comments. I appreciate your experience in this! I've pinned this comment to keep it on the top of the comments for now.
@@DansWay @John Allen, I have never thought of loosening the parking brake tension. I feel like a dumb a**. I was just lamenting the stupid design of that spring on the parking break cable and saying to a friend of mine that you really need a second person to clamp the vice grips because that spring is so tight and it pinches your fingers when you lose grip on it to get the vice grips on the cable. I was saying, to him "I just need to invent a tool that will pull that spring back and act as the second person, allowing the vice grips to be clamped." Duh!! Just loosen the emergency brake tension dummy. Thanks for the obvious to be brought to us who don't always know it should be obvious!
If you know how to do this why are you watching the video just curious lol
Just did my daughter's 2007 yaris brakes. What a pain it was!
The rear drums were the worst I have worked on. There's a huge risk of ripping the rubber boot on the cylinder... in addition to bleeders that withstood half a can of pb blaster and a torch.
Front calipers pins were completely frozen in place.
I would recommend to spend 200 and get all new front caliber assemblies and new rear cylinders.
This way u can bleed everything.
If the previous owner maintained the vehicle... that would have been amazing.
Wow, sounds like yours was a nightmare…. Glad you got it done!
You're the only one I've seen so far actually use and explain the use of the smaller threaded holes. Thank you. That saved a lot of headache.
And I hope you saw in the video description the following statement: I misquoted it as a 1/4-20 bolt. It is really a 8mm-1.25mm. Another viewer corrected me on this fact.
This actually helped out tremendously. Went back and double checked my work. Found two things wrong with what I had done. Thank you for putting something like this up. "That'll learn me for not paying attention."
@shortwave, leave one side together to reference if you forget and it will give you direction.
@@justaskwhy1 Yup, was aware of that at the time. I just didn't remove that tire at the time. It was faster to look it up online
I ordered the kit on Amazon while you've been working. But mostly I am so so so enjoying the songbirds in the background. What a huge treat. Here in New Hampshire, springtime is pretty nice but OMG! its December 29th and I've got a shed with a wood stove for a work area. So the songbirds! Thank you again. ✨🙏✨
Thanks for the good tutorial! Even though I’ve done these a few times, it’s still nice to double check that I’m doing things right.
Thank you, Very well shown, not like an expert but has shown all the minute details so that even the less technical people can do the job. Well done!!!
Great DIY video and now I'm ready to do it my self on my Yaris.
THANK YOU DAN! LEARNED A LOT FROM THIS VIDEO..LOOKING FORWARD TO TACKLING THIS JOB ON MY 2008 YARIS!
I appreciate that not everything went smoothly. I _hate_ videos that make these kinds of jobs look easier than they really are!
Haha, yah. I try to show the 'gotchas' when I fall into them so others won't do the same... ;-)
Drum brakes should be outlawed.
I support this statement.
Thanks man, your video gave me the confidence to try this out and successfully complete the change. The first time around was hard, but the second one went fairly smooth. Thanks man.
Phu Nguyen I appreciate your comments. This is EXACTLY why I make these videos, to help and encourage people to try DIY for themselves. Congratulations on getting this done and keep up the mindset that most things don’t require a rocket scientist to figure out, just a few specific tools which usually cost less by far than paying a shop to do the job, and you get to keep the tools!
Brilliant, at 165K have need for a car I maintain. Its grinding, possible wear on drum. It is always the details. This DIY is a headache saver, did the front rotors and ceramic pads, and it is much easier. Thanks much!!
If the Yaris is In the Family? ~~~ Well, ~~~ I guess I'm subscribing. Wow. I think that I've struck GOLD! It's 2023 errr nearly 2024 and my 2009 Yaris has 130K so I guess I better give it some attention. Thanks so much for this.
Thanks for all the comments Steven!
Great video, I used your video for my 2012 Scion IQ..every things the same except the bottom spring attached to the shoes is higher up and about 3.5 inches long.. and my emergency brake brackets were already attached to the shoes (which made it easier) from the factory. I never changed drum breaks before so I used your video while I was doing the left side and then when i did right side I learned so much from your video while doing the left side I didn't need to follow it..Great video and very easy to follow.....
Thanks for the feedback!
Expertly done and great patience , thankyou so much for this video , very clear and informative 😊
Haha, yah, these take patience for sure! Did you do this to your car?
Thanks! I have 190k miles on the original factory shoes so it is time to do this. I last did brakes maybe 20 years ago. Wish I had a video back then. Nothing has changed in this design.
A thank you from Ireland. Your video is more than helpful for my 05 Yaris brake shoe change. Cheers 👍☘️
Great video.
Will be replacing my Yaris brakes very soon thanks to your video.
Thanks to your demo,GOD BLESS YOU.
Thanks, every year I change my rear brake shoe on my Toyota, I always watch this just incase I might doing it wrong 😁😁😁😁😁😁👍👍👍👍
Awesome! Thanks for the comments. You must drive a lot!!
@@DansWay Yeah, I drive a lot 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Buy better quality drum brakes, 1st time I'm replacing in 12 years I've had the car. 200k km.
Thanks! My son has a Scion XA ... same as a Yaris but with a different body shape. I've done oil changes and the front brakes, but the rear has me intimidated. I'll have this video by my side when I do his rear brakes.
boston dann let us know how it turns out!
Thanks for doing this video. Just what I needed. God bless!
Great tutorial. Thanks for leaving in the little mistake like the adjuster and the fix so we could learn too.
Hey no worries. Thanks for the comments. Did you complete your brake shoe replacement yet?
Thanks! Had to figure out how to unhook the ebrake cable and this helped.
Always prefit springs, put one shoe on and leave other shoe half fitted then lever loose shoe, much easier than stretching springs. Great vid. Drums should be banned they are so hard to do imo.
Great comments. Thanks for the ideas. I agree, these are way too complex for what you get out of them...
Still helping people out with this post. It helped a lot. Thanks!!!
Glad it helped!
Darn good video Dan.........I've had all the new parts in the garage for 6 months. I got a really good deal online. I found out that mechanics around here won't do the brakes on my car unless they supply the parts . They want to be able to hose me on parts and labor both. Your video gave me the courage to do it myself. Thanx.
I really do mean that. Thanx. Cheers
Hey there. Thanks for the comments, and I'm really proud that you gave it a shot yourself. It is definitely scary as the risk of 'messing it up' or worst case, getting stuck in the middle, and now you can't drive the car to the shop... Love your screen name too! I had to say it before I understood it ;-)
@@DansWay hi Dan...I'm in my 70's and it's hard to do anything with my hands nowadays, but when i saw your video with the same grey 2 door yaris, i figured that it was a sign. I took the phone out and played and paused my way through the whole job. You saved me a lot of money that i don't have anyway. If you do anything else to that yaris, let me know. 🙂.thanx again
thanks Dan. Now I'm going out right now and change my daughter's brake shoes on her yaris. fo real
Great, let us know how it turns out!
Got to about 9 minutes in and realized I do not want to do this myself. Didn't realize drum brakes were such a pain. Disc are so much easier.
Haha, yah…. I really hate these things compared to disk.
Yea ….now I understand why mechanics don’t like doing brake shoes….thanks for that …I may just tackle them in the future…great video 👌👍
EXCELLENT VIDEO sir. Very well done. Thank you
Thanks Dan. Hello from Nova Scotia, Canada. Enjoyed your video. Very helpful.
Hey Rick. Glad it was helpful!
Danke für das Video, gut erklärt👍 morgen werde ich auch an mein Yaris (2009) die Bremsbacken erneuern. 😊
Great, let me know how it turns out.
Instead of putting one tire on a wheel ramp just use two jack stands. They usually come in pairs and then if you get confused you can just go look at how the other side is put together. Also the car won't roll away as it's front wheel drive just leave it in park.
Agreed, that is another way to do this for sure. I like your way as you can have both rear tires removed and compare as you say.
@@DansWay been doing it for 45 years just trying to pass along learned knowledge.
I have a 2009 yaris hatchback, it actually takes a 7mm-1.25 bolt for removing the drum
Thanks for the correction, I was way off!
Just a short note on how this process can be further improved. After removing the brake drum, immediately spray the whole brake assembly with brake cleaner and allow the contaminants to drip into the tray below. That way, together with wearing gloves, you will have a much cleaner environment to work with.......Also, the brake lever that is attached to the parking cable need not be detached. The new brake shoe can be assembled onto the brake lever even while it is attached to the brake cable. It will save you another step in the process......Lastly to ensure the parking brake is working properly, adjust the appropriate parking cable length using the adjustment nut located below the parking brake lever inside the car.
Hey JC, thanks for the additional input here. Always good to get more expertise 'down in the comments'...
Changed mine thanks for your help
Hey Sundar, glad the video was helpful and you got it done!
Thanks for this video! However, on my 2014 Yaris, the old brake shoe with the emergency brake connection does not have a pin with a cotter pin but a rivet instead. Any idea of where I can buy the pin which is not included in the kit? Or any idea to work around that encounter?
Thank you so much for the video I’m doing mine soon never don’t before but your video help
Let me know how it turns out!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thankyou so much Dan Holt... my question is "@Final When I'm fixing the drum Its should be drag with brake shoe or free from it.
Hangout you should just hear it rub/touch a bit when you spin it.
Is it only the rear wheels that have the drum brakes and fronts have disks? I have an 07 Yaris. I hope I don’t need to Change the rear pads!
Thnx your video helped me to rebuilt the yaris . My girl friand loose the wheel on the road and everything was gone or not good 🤔🙄 so i use your video on the go !!
Gr8 video what is the size of the bolt that loosen the hub is it M6 bolt you use
Having a problem getting drum back on with new pads...Even though I've done the brakes couple of times, always get confused with the adjuster. Small notch pin side, small notch outside.... I'll have to remember that!
Bit of different colour nail varnish fore and aft on the adjustment bar will save a lot of headaches on reassembly. Also take a photo with the i phone before anything is touched of the whole assembly. Surprisingly how easy to forget the exact location of all the components
Great suggestions there Tom. I'll admit to watching my own video to figure out how to reassemble things sometimes. A photo is a huge help for sure! And make one for each side as they can be subtly different, or just hard to mentally mirror...
BTW there is n shoe adjustment slot in the back covered by a rubber plug. if u take it out you can adjust the tension while the drum is on. no need to take out the drum on and off again to to adjust. quicker and a lot easier.
Agreed. I had to adjust the ring a LOT because of how far I had backed off the adjuster, so removing the drum let me rotate the adjuster quickly. You can definitely just use the back-side access hole if you are close.
love your video. so real.
G’day,may I know the size of the bolts?thanks
You can do adjustment from the rear of the drum, no need to open again and again
M Ridware that is true. I should have shown that option. I was so far off, I thought it easier to just get it close first. Thanks for the suggestion.
Did you just jack up the rear on the thin metal rail? Also, where did you place that jack stand?
Thanks
I’m between the two notches but that’s with the scissor jack, Scotty Kilmer has a video about it
Super helpful, Thanks !
Your welcome!
Great work. dear keep it up
Thanks for saving my ass, I have a 2005 Scion xB which has the exact same brake wise and engine wise, wouldn’t have got it back together without your video 🤣
Hey no worries! I've reviewed my own videos before just to figure out what I did to remove something when trying to reconnect or reassemble it.... Glad it worked out! Thanks for the tip on this being the same as the Scion xB. I wasn't aware of that myself...
Living on the East Coast of Canada, I envy how rust free this car is lol.
Haha, so true! I’m amazed at how much rust a 10 year old car has in the ‘rust-belt’. I’ve often wondered how much additional value a West Coast car would have if you shipped it and sold it on the East Coast. Is there a market for gathering quality used cars and taking them east?
@@DansWay absolutely there is I buy cars from GA/FL and bring them up to Michigan. There's a market for it
Why streak sound come up in rear tyre when I pressed the break at stop position and little release the break in yaris 2016 model while customer leave the car.????
Also cleaned the rear break pads but still come.
Great vid
Nice work.
Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. Very detailed. It's worth buying the best shoes you can afford to minimize the number of times you have to do this job. The Toyota OEM shoes on my Tercel lasted 100k miles as did the OEM pads on the same car. The AC Delco shoes I put on my 2010 Yaris have 40k miles on them and are almost down to the minimum spec thickness at the thinnest spots, and I do the same type of driving with my Yaris.
Great tip! I haven't really found a way to know what pad will last the longest, but going OEM is definitely as 'factory original' as you can get...
Great video. I'm about to do my breaks and looks like you get more clearance where you placed the stand. Where did you place it under?
Good question... I think it is on the main support member that moves with the suspension.
Just did this job Thurs morning, pretty straight forward with this tutorial although the hub removal bolt size is incorrent. Metric size needed, without the two bolts hubs not coming off easy.Brake cleaner essential but it is toxic...
Good job sir
Good jobs
What kind of car jack it is?
If you don't have a bolt for removing the drum, take a bolt out of the hood mount bracket. They are the same size
Excellent suggestion!
Good tutorial. Back brakes are kind of complicated with putting them back together the right way.
Exactly. I would take pictures / video just for my own sake!
Can anyone tell me what the signs would be that this would need to be done, I have a 2013 Toyota Yaris and I am hearing a noise in the back but only when I 1st crank it up, then I back up to get out of my driveway, once I am in drive , I do not hear it anymore.
You could always pull the drum to see the wear, or have a shop tell you how much thickness there is left on them. A bit hard to say that the noise you hear means the brakes are worn out. Cold brakes can make noise on their first application in the am.
Thank you so much for the helpful video. I just changed my rear brakes watching this but realized that on the little piece that spreads out with the star wheel, I put both of the short sides towards the inside when it should’ve been the short side on one side and the long side towards the outside on the other. Is this a big issue? The brakes are really good now, I just want to make sure everything is OK. I noticed when I click the wheel to spread them out and adjust them, there was no click. Is this way? Thank you
I'm honestly not sure if that is a big deal or not. Being brakes, I would open one back up and see how that difference could matter myself... There is a tooth that engages the wheel, so I would check that the wheel only turns one way. This is the auto tightening system. If this isn't working, you could see the brakes fade over time as they wear thinner.
@@DansWay thanks for your reply. Even though I didn’t want to, I took it apart and fixed it. It took me about eight hours to do the job originally as I’m a complete noob ha ha, but thought I should fix it right. That little piece with the short side that goes on the outside and controls the adjustment of the brakes over time, which is why I did not hear a click before when I made it go out and the brakes tighter. Now it all works and makes a clicking sound. Thanks again for the helpful video
Awesome job! Must feel good to know that it is all together and safe.
Very good thanks you
Thank you for the video.
Glad it was helpful
What other type of grease can you use for the contact points? I can’t get brake grease where I live.
I’m honestly not sure if bearing grease would work. It has to be very high temperature and you want to use a very thin coat.
@@DansWay I used some red bearing grease and seems to be fine. I live in Costa Rica and they have never heard of greasing the contact points here or the glide pins of the calipers- hence no brake grease. Dielectric grease is also non-existent.
Hi. Thx for vid. Contemplating trying this job. Plz tell me what you mean at 1:35 “ make sure you have blocked right side tires.“ I’m not sure what block the tires means.
Also, you said at that point as well, to make sure the emergency brake is off. But my car is manual transmission so if I don’t have the emergency brake on it rolls away. So should I just keep my emergency brake on?
Solutions Within blocking the right side tires means putting something in front and behind the tires to prevent the car from rolling away. You can then release the parking brake, allowing to work on the rear brakes. If you leave the parking brake on you won’t be able to remove the drum. 😉
@@marcfillion2345 okay. thank you!
@West Park good stuff! thanks!
In the video, you can see that Dan has placed something behind the rear tire - you can buy those at the store or use a block of wood that you have lying around (assuming that its thick enough to safely block the tire). Depending on which way the car may roll, you may want to block both sides of the tire
What if the e brake is to lose and the brakes are as tight as it can to put the hub back on, the e brake was was working good before
You should be able to spin the sprocket from the back side after reassembling the hub. You might also be able to readjust the cable at the handle inside.
i noticed at the end of the video u had fluid coming out of the wheel cylinder. i had that happen too.
i dont see the level going down now but im afraid i blew the wheel cylinder seal while doing this
I’m not sure I see what you are seeing. What timestamp in the video do you see leakage?
@@DansWay like 19:20 to 19:50 u can see just a drop on the right side dust boot
Looking again, I think that this is just a 'clean' spot after I rubbed the dust off the black boot. The 'spot' gets larger after I touch it again when moving it around.
You are a No.1 father Mr. Holt.
Thanks ready to my sisters Yaris now f yeah
No safety glasses when removing springs?
What size are these screw to remove the drum
M8×125, 80mm in length should do.
Thank you so much.
Glad this was helpful. Did you get this done on your car?
Very helpful. Watching and changing right now.
Sweet, let us know how it turns out!
haha, cool. Good to know. I could plan a cross-country trip with a flight back after selling the car on the east side!
My dude - how did you remove the cotter pin lol
Okay, I see why you said don't reuse the old pin hahaha. That thing is mangled to hell after I finally pulled it off. I'd love to know how to properly remove it. Coincidentally, I'm changing the brakes on MY daughter's 2007 Yaris so this felt like a father-father project when watching your video. Thanks man! (Not sure how I managed it, but I only squirted brake fluid into my eye once, so there's that :))
In the morning I'm going to find replacement cotter pins.
Just make sure you DO NOT get grease or dirt on the pad side of the new drums! (It was the first thing he did when he picked up the new pads! lol) Great video tho!
Thanks Dad
Don’t the brakes adjust automatically?
They do self adjust over time, but you have to get them close or you won’t have much braking for a long time.
To the point
Great vid. Definitely helped with my task of changing the shoes on my Yaris. Hope you don't mind if I subscribe....
Haha, of course not!
You don't torque the lug nuts, my guess 76 ft.lb?
Today was the first time I’ve ever changed shoes. I must have done something wrong. My wheel cylinder is leaking.
Oh bummer! Did you figure it out?
@@DansWay Just replaced them in the end. My Yaris is a 2007 and they were the originals. Maybe I was too ruff with them while trying to get the long spring in place- which was much harder to do on mine than yours.
@@chegvra I just had the same issue, was looking to see anyone else experienced anything similar, and came across to your post. I also had some break fluid in my eye 😔 It is really difficult to place the long spring into position on mine. If the break fluid is leaking, do I have to change the whole thing?
so you actually want the brakes to rub a bit?
Yes, ever so slightly.
Nice tutorial! However, it seems to me that the job was not needed to be done. The old shoes look like they still have some meat on them and can safely handle additional 50,000km. They carry only about 30 per cent of the braking forces so they last a lot longer comparing to the front brakes.
Michal Kolář I was sending my daughter all the way across country so regardless of their condition I was wanting to have it completely good to go another 50K. I’m not sure what your seeing because as I recall they were really close to gone compared to the new ones.
@@DansWay I totally understand, I would do the same if my kid was driving the car. Just to be sure.
@@DansWay At about 4:34 is probably where he's referring to. You said the pad material was still good all the way around.
you never show the bottom spring installation
Just finished this on my son's car, absolute pig of a job, made the mistake of buying cheap replacement parts including the shoes and a replacement hub cylinder for the one that was leaking, the $17.99 cylinder did not fit as well as the original and the $23 brake shoes were very poorly made so my advice is pay a bit more for the parts, probably no need to get Toyota but certainly not bargain basement. At the end of it all the hub did not want to go on even though the adjuster was maxed all the way in but managed it after a lot of fiddling. This is not a job I want to do again.
Did you buy chinese parts? Not very patriotic of you.
@@ax4178 yep, Chinese parts for a Japanese car
Your gonna blow wheel cylinder. You can use ratchet straps to hold shoes down.
i forgot to say thank you
Your welcome!
strange... I have same car with 1.3 engine and I have discs on the back
Interesting! What year?
@@DansWay 2006 european specification , sold originally on german market
I was not convinced that the drum shoe change was necessary. You should have started with the measurement of the friction material. As I can see, a cleaning and some shoe sanding would have been enough.
After you removed the drum, you should have applied some brake cleaner spray.
The whole system and your hands would have been much cleaner beside you didn't breathe the harmful brake dust.
As part of the drum job, it is advised to check the brake piston for leaks and excessive wear. The brake fluid should be changed when you work with the piston to have fresh fluid and no air in the system.
The drum should have also been cleaned with brake cleaner to get rid of brake dust and debris prior to installation.
After the whole process, you should check the brake by pressing the pedal. Then, you should apply the handbrake and check its function and the lever travel. Then, you have to rotate the wheel again to check if it spins freely without excessive friction.
You should have emphasized that the brake job had to be done for both sides. And pads/shoes have to be replaced at both sides of an axle.
When you are done, a road test is the bare minimum if you have no machine for that. You should check for uneven braking, biased braking, excessive noise or too short/long handbrake travel.
Excellent suggestions. Thanks for your input!
Omg bro clean the fkn inside of the drums, after years it’s going to accumulate so bad that everything will be stuck because of that
Most annoying brakes to change ever
Agreed! So mechanically complex compared to simple disk brakes.
Everything is fine, but the fact that you didn't clean the system base well, that for me is unacceptable......😢😢😢😢