Doing this on a Yaris Sedan is a little more of a pain. There is moulding you must remove and the top nuts are in a small space. Its more difficult to do than the hatchback
Garage done the same job 2 rear shock absorbers new top rubbers and even new springs i’m still getting bump noise not sure where to look it’s definitely coming from the back it’s driving me nuts
Do you happened to have a list of all the tools needed for this job? One of the sites has a hell of a list with at least two dozen things on it, but it looks like you only used Maybe five or six different tools. Hoping to save a few hundred bucks, thanks for the sweet video!
Am I right in thinking if I just wanted to change the mount I could leave the shock absorber in whilst jacked up abit to compress the spring and change the mount from the back of the boot? Many thanks mate
I enjoy watching your video, very clear. Do you know if this is the same procedures to a 2018 Yaris , I have one with a sound that I believe is the shock absorber.
Thank you. I haven't worked on that Yaris model but I'm sure it will be quite similar to this process but removing the trim to reach the upper mountings might be more difficult.
QUESTION (maybe dumb): So, when you go to torque the top nut, what do you do if the threaded center just spins? Yes, you can initially tighten with 2 open end wrenches, one securing the center that wants to spin. But, when you put a socket on there to torque the nut, how do you torque it if that center still spins?
The manual states that you only have to torque the top nut of the two that screw onto the top of the piston rod, so you can hold the bottom nut with an open ended spanner as you torque the top one.
hi one of rear shock is leaking a bit. Do i need to replace that asap and do i have to change both rear or just the leaking one? car is 5 year old and only 30000 miles
Hello, he leaking shock will get worse over time and could affect the cars handling. I would replace the two shocks asap as changing just one could also badly affect the handling.
@@jayashpatel6165 Yes they're probably different on the 2015 model. I don't have that information. You might have to check with a garage or Toyota dealer
the rubber casing on it shouldn't be easily moved up and down, right? Like just with your hand. The rubber sits low and I'm able to move it without much effort.
That's a dust cover. They sometimes break or come loose but it's not an emergency and doesn't affect how the shock works in the short term. However, it should be replaced before damage to the shock itself occurs
I was hoping this video would show how to replace the rear shock in a sedan not a hatchback. The sedan has the shock tower hiding behind part of the frame which is impossible to see.
@@screwsnutsandbolts I heard some strange noises when driving and I had to loosen the nuts a bit to allow more wiggle room for the rubber to move. Sounds are gone now. Thanks for your video.
THIS IS WRONG the final fitting of the top nut should be taken down so there is a distance of 15 to 18 mm between the top face of the nut and the top of the strut. then the lock nut is put on and tightened. Doing it this way as shown will compress the rubber bushes until they are nearly solid and give a very harsh ride. Rubber bushes are there to give a progression to the application of the shock absorber and to insulate the noise from the body.
Thanks for the detailed version now I’m off after dinner changing mine.
Thanks for watching !
Excellent visual coverage! Everything lovely and clear. Well done and thank you.
Thank you for watching ! 👍
Just did this! So helpful 🙌🏻
Thanks for watching !
Very clear and concise video. Thumbs up. I was also looking for one with the front struts.
Thank you, I didn't do a video about that but here's a video showing it: ruclips.net/video/50Q7OR_Muqk/видео.html
😘Thank you, this is very cool, simple, caring and practical explanation
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Very informative. Thank you!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Doing this on a Yaris Sedan is a little more of a pain. There is moulding you must remove and the top nuts are in a small space. Its more difficult to do than the hatchback
Thank you going in hope for the best
Excellent upload!
Thanks !
Awesome video!!!
Thank you !
Garage done the same job 2 rear shock absorbers new top rubbers and even new springs i’m still getting bump noise not sure where to look it’s definitely coming from the back it’s driving me nuts
I hope you find the problem
Maybe where the spare wheel is? Just throwing ideas out there.
Could be broken steel rod / stabilizing rod
Do you happened to have a list of all the tools needed for this job? One of the sites has a hell of a list with at least two dozen things on it, but it looks like you only used Maybe five or six different tools. Hoping to save a few hundred bucks, thanks for the sweet video!
Thank you. I just used 2 x 14mm spanners
, a car jack, a wheel brace, an axle stand and a 17mm Ratchet or Spanner.
Awesome. That's super helpful. Thank you
@@alekzandr_apokalypto You're welcome :)
ScrewsNutsAndBolts i
Am I right in thinking if I just wanted to change the mount I could leave the shock absorber in whilst jacked up abit to compress the spring and change the mount from the back of the boot? Many thanks mate
Yes you can do that if you're only replacing the very top mount
@screwsnutsandbolts cheers for the reply mate. Top man x
@@DeanWarwick-1993 You're very welcome
I enjoy watching your video, very clear. Do you know if this is the same procedures to a 2018 Yaris , I have one with a sound that I believe is the shock absorber.
Thank you. I haven't worked on that Yaris model but I'm sure it will be quite similar to this process but removing the trim to reach the upper mountings might be more difficult.
Awesome !
Thanks !
There is an oil mark on the shock absorber head. Why don't you just replace it? I have subscribed to the channel.
Thanks for subscribing. I'm just demonstrating how to replace the complete shock absorber
QUESTION (maybe dumb): So, when you go to torque the top nut, what do you do if the threaded center just spins? Yes, you can initially tighten with 2 open end wrenches, one securing the center that wants to spin. But, when you put a socket on there to torque the nut, how do you torque it if that center still spins?
The manual states that you only have to torque the top nut of the two that screw onto the top of the piston rod, so you can hold the bottom nut with an open ended spanner as you torque the top one.
Great 😸👍
Thanks !
The top nut when tightening is 18lbs the bottom of shock nut is 36 lbs😊
you can do this with the car on the ground
Mine is all loose up top, idk why...is the bushing gone? O cant find it
Maybe the rubber bushing was old and disintegrated ?
@@screwsnutsandbolts yup! Replaced
Good job 👍 @@shawnmelnikas36
@@screwsnutsandbolts thanks
You're welcome@@shawnmelnikas36
What size is the bolt metric size ie m10 m12 or bigger
As I don’t know what size bolt to replace mine which damaged getting them off
The upper shaft thread is M10 x 1.25
Is it necessary to remove the wheel?, or you can do it on some ramps so you can simply have more space under the car in the back?
Im sure it's possible to do with the wheel on if you have the right equipment
hi one of rear shock is leaking a bit. Do i need to replace that asap and do i have to change both rear or just the leaking one? car is 5 year old and only 30000 miles
Hello, he leaking shock will get worse over time and could affect the cars handling. I would replace the two shocks asap as changing just one could also badly affect the handling.
can you please tell me how tight should the nuts be or torque please
@@jayashpatel6165 According to the manual, the top nuts should be torqued to 25 newton meters and the bottom nut to 49 newton meters
@@screwsnutsandbolts
thanks I just realise that probably wont be same for 2015 yaris ?
@@jayashpatel6165 Yes they're probably different on the 2015 model. I don't have that information. You might have to check with a garage or Toyota dealer
Hi what year yaris is this
This is a 2000 Yaris
the rubber casing on it shouldn't be easily moved up and down, right? Like just with your hand. The rubber sits low and I'm able to move it without much effort.
That's a dust cover. They sometimes break or come loose but it's not an emergency and doesn't affect how the shock works in the short term. However, it should be replaced before damage to the shock itself occurs
@@screwsnutsandbolts thank you so much for the info
@@artemislian5261 You're welcome !
I was hoping this video would show how to replace the rear shock in a sedan not a hatchback. The sedan has the shock tower hiding behind part of the frame which is impossible to see.
So you do not need to tighten the upper bolts that much?
No not too much. I tightened them back to the same amount as when I started.
@@screwsnutsandbolts I heard some strange noises when driving and I had to loosen the nuts a bit to allow more wiggle room for the rubber to move. Sounds are gone now. Thanks for your video.
@@andreiazzopardi Thank you, glad you sorted out the problem :)
Why not put new shocks?
It was an old car and I was just demonstrating the process
👌👍🏻👏🏼
Thanks !
I love you
THIS IS WRONG the final fitting of the top nut should be taken down so there is a distance of 15 to 18 mm between the top face of the nut and the top of the strut. then the lock nut is put on and tightened. Doing it this way as shown will compress the rubber bushes until they are nearly solid and give a very harsh ride. Rubber bushes are there to give a progression to the application of the shock absorber and to insulate the noise from the body.
Did you read the video description ?
Nie moge dojść na starych amortyzatorach nic nie puka a na dowych wali jakby byli nie dokręcone
Are you sure the new one is the correct type ?
Tak kupiłem nawet drugi komplet i po prostu nie mam pojęcia co to może być