I'm getting ready to paint a classic car. Is it necessary to Prime the whole car before I paint or can I use to paint that's already on it. I only have a couple of spots that has been body worked and repairs and I know I have to prime those and get those prep but do I have to Prime the whole car before paint
In theory, if the current paint on the car has been applied correctly, has cured and you have prepared correctly you can go over the top. However, there is always the unknown....has rust started underneath? Is the paint acrylic? Is there any contamination? Generally, the amount of time and money that goes into Restoring a car, it is safest to take it back to bare metal.
Thank you for your hard work in making these videos. I’ve found myself in a pickle and was wondering if you could answer a couple questions. First is when single stage urethane is fully cured how hard should it be ,should you be able to dig your finger nail into it? Secondly can you apply urethane base coat over properly sanded urethane single stage? The reason for these questions is 2 years ago when spraying my project true the second time around I accidentally used the hardener for my DTM primer in my single stage finish paint! I went back over the whole truck with a DA and removed what I believe to be the bad layer but the other day I had some edging pop up after applying some base.
Hard one to answer without seeing the car. It is rare to use a single stage urethane on a Restoration project. When cured it should be hard (cannot dig your nail in). It is likely the incorrect hardener has caused the problem. If the single stage has been applied and cured correctly, there should be no issue sanding back and recoating. If any layer under the top coat is not correct, it will eventually cause problems. As the old saying goes "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link".
Another quality vid, keep em coming!! One question I have is, after the 3 coates of primer before base coat painting, what grades of paper do you recommend to use on that final primer stage?? Dry or wet??
Great question! There are many ways, however the most common two ways are: 240 dry then 320 dry, the final sand is with 800 wet. The second is 400 wet, 600 wet then 800 wet. We like to finish with 800 wet to achieve the best scratch profile before painting. Powder guide coat is used in between each grade. Hope this helps.
Tricky question. In theory, acrylic paint can be coated over correctly prepared 2 k primer. I would always do a test first to ensure compatibility and correct adhesion. It is never advisable to use 2 k products over any acrylics.
I've had many instances where I have applied two epoxy primer coats, allowed to cure, then applied filler to soft dents. In the process of sanding the filly, I removed the epoxy primer and expose the metal. Question is, do I re coat the exposed metal with epoxy primer. Kind regards Mark
If the project is going to sit stagnant for while, it can be a good idea to re-epoxy, then polyester at a later date. If your planning to continue straight into final prime and paint it, it's not necessary. One factor to consider is the amount of exposed bare steel.
@@melomotive14 just feels right to seal it with epoxy especially because filler is so porous. But yeah you're right it all depends on the project. Loving the videos. keep them up 👍
So is it fair to say that if you leave 10-20mm of hi fill in a mixing cup for few days and it ends up with a big crack in the middle of it, does this indicate a poor quality brand??
"High fill" is not designed for the amount of build required to perfect shape. The solid content of "Hi-fill" is a lot less, hence it cracking with excessive build, with around 40-50% solids. Polyesters range in solids from 70-85%.
When would you apply phosphorous? I'd prefer to work the metal before an epoxy sealant. Would i spray a coat of phosphorous, work the metal, clean (red scotch) the phosphorous coat off then epoxy? How long can I sit the metal with a phosphorous coat?
Good point! This video was an overview focused on exterior body work and the primers required. Going forward, we will have a specific video focusing on Weld through primers, Lead wiping and seams. Stay tuned! Please subscribe to our channel to be sure you don't miss it!
Well covered - appreciate it 👍🏼
@@rogerlavictoire thanks
I learned more with your tutorial than hrs with many others ... thanks a mint !!!
Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for all the effort you put into educating us. Kind regards.
Loving these vids. After doing the spline course these little tips of info go missing sometimes so its handy to revisit. Keep it up!!!
brilliant explanation thanks for your time & effort
Very good tutorial - only one that covers all the makes that confuse the beginner (like me).
Great video.
Thanks
Great information! Ty
I'm getting ready to paint a classic car. Is it necessary to Prime the whole car before I paint or can I use to paint that's already on it. I only have a couple of spots that has been body worked and repairs and I know I have to prime those and get those prep but do I have to Prime the whole car before paint
In theory, if the current paint on the car has been applied correctly, has cured and you have prepared correctly you can go over the top. However, there is always the unknown....has rust started underneath? Is the paint acrylic? Is there any contamination? Generally, the amount of time and money that goes into Restoring a car, it is safest to take it back to bare metal.
Another great watch! Keep it up
Thank you for your hard work in making these videos. I’ve found myself in a pickle and was wondering if you could answer a couple questions. First is when single stage urethane is fully cured how hard should it be ,should you be able to dig your finger nail into it? Secondly can you apply urethane base coat over properly sanded urethane single stage? The reason for these questions is 2 years ago when spraying my project true the second time around I accidentally used the hardener for my DTM primer in my single stage finish paint! I went back over the whole truck with a DA and removed what I believe to be the bad layer but the other day I had some edging pop up after applying some base.
Hard one to answer without seeing the car. It is rare to use a single stage urethane on a Restoration project. When cured it should be hard (cannot dig your nail in). It is likely the incorrect hardener has caused the problem. If the single stage has been applied and cured correctly, there should be no issue sanding back and recoating. If any layer under the top coat is not correct, it will eventually cause problems. As the old saying goes "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link".
@@melomotive14 Thank you for your response!
Another quality vid, keep em coming!! One question I have is, after the 3 coates of primer before base coat painting, what grades of paper do you recommend to use on that final primer stage?? Dry or wet??
Great question! There are many ways, however the most common two ways are: 240 dry then 320 dry, the final sand is with 800 wet. The second is 400 wet, 600 wet then 800 wet. We like to finish with 800 wet to achieve the best scratch profile before painting. Powder guide coat is used in between each grade. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the great info in your channel
Question I have is can I put acrylic paint on top of 2 k primer Id appreciate your comments thanks
Tricky question. In theory, acrylic paint can be coated over correctly prepared 2 k primer. I would always do a test first to ensure compatibility and correct adhesion. It is never advisable to use 2 k products over any acrylics.
I've had many instances where I have applied two epoxy primer coats, allowed to cure, then applied filler to soft dents. In the process of sanding the filly, I removed the epoxy primer and expose the metal. Question is, do I re coat the exposed metal with epoxy primer. Kind regards Mark
Yes, its best to recoat with Epoxy again.
Usually epoxy again over filler work to seal it off.
If the project is going to sit stagnant for while, it can be a good idea to re-epoxy, then polyester at a later date. If your planning to continue straight into final prime and paint it, it's not necessary. One factor to consider is the amount of exposed bare steel.
@@melomotive14 just feels right to seal it with epoxy especially because filler is so porous. But yeah you're right it all depends on the project. Loving the videos. keep them up 👍
Exactly. Thanks for the feedback.
So is it fair to say that if you leave 10-20mm of hi fill in a mixing cup for few days and it ends up with a big crack in the middle of it, does this indicate a poor quality brand??
"High fill" is not designed for the amount of build required to perfect shape. The solid content of "Hi-fill" is a lot less, hence it cracking with excessive build, with around 40-50% solids. Polyesters range in solids from 70-85%.
When would you apply phosphorous? I'd prefer to work the metal before an epoxy sealant. Would i spray a coat of phosphorous, work the metal, clean (red scotch) the phosphorous coat off then epoxy? How long can I sit the metal with a phosphorous coat?
We'll be doing a metal preparation video, this will involve a phosphoric acid treatment and metal clean is super important before Epoxy.
Hi, restoring a Austin Healey that has some aluminium panels.
Would you use an etch prime or epoxy straight onto the aluminium?
Hi. An Aluminium specific Epoxy is required.
Soon everyone will only need yo sunscribe to one resto advice channel! Thanks team!
Weld through primer? Nothing about that in restoration.
Good point! This video was an overview focused on exterior body work and the primers required. Going forward, we will have a specific video focusing on Weld through primers, Lead wiping and seams. Stay tuned! Please subscribe to our channel to be sure you don't miss it!
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