I bought one of these about 18 months ago. Just recently for apparnt reason it stopped working. Electrically everything was dead. The work light, the speed readout and of corse the motor. I tracked the fault down to what's called the relay circuit board. Replaced that , $80 and all was well again. When I was putting back together again it was difficult to cram all the wires back into the neat little housing. That's when I relized there's probably a lot of heat in there and no airflow. So I made some 30 mm long spacers and spaced the rear lid of the control box out. Made it vermin proof with some mesh . Today I was working the machine fairly hard and it was surprising how warm the mesh got. I'd recommend this mod to anyone that does a lot of milling.
It wasn't a particularly hot day , mid 20's maybe. Perhaps it wasn't heat that caused the problem but I didn't want to risk doing it again. Today useing a 34 mm hole cutter was cutting hples through 40 mm aluminum plate. A lot of heat was coming out of the box
Hi @garyplozza3036, We have had our machine for about the same length of time, maybe a bit longer, but being in a college workshop it is very seldom used. We now have the same issue, one day everything was fine, I went to use it the next day and no power to the machine at all. How did you pinpoint the fault to the Relay Circuit Board? and where did you get the replacement from. I have done all the usual tests mains power to the rear switch, tested the fuse, reset the E stop etc. but no joy. Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Colin
Thank you for this, I have just ordered one myself ( in NZ from Machinery House ), seemed the best around for the price. Im looking forward to your updates on what you find out. Great tip regarding chainsaw oil as way oil, Ive been trying to buy way oil and it only comes in huge tins so I'll give the chain saw oil a go. Out of interest have you had any experience with CRC Noxy oil, Ive been using it on my lathe chuck etc to stop rust from my hand sweat but I dont know if its any good or if it has any long term down sides. I hate CRC 556 so Im a little suspicious
Hey mate - thanks for your comment, hope your new mill is going well! I haven't used the CRC Noxy, but I'm using Inox MX3 now for lathe and mill non-contact surfaces. Has a smell to it but I'm finding it to be a fantastic product. Cleans up easy but protects surfaces for a long time after application.
Im wondering what the thread is on the draw bar that was supplied. In NZ its Whitworth! can you believe it on a metric mill. My first task will be to make 12mm draw bar so I can buy attachments from any supplier, and use the MT3 fittings I have on my Emco lathe
Hi, thanks for the video! Looking at purchasing the same, noticed an engine crane next to it. Can you tell me how you lifted yours with the crane. Cheers
The manual recommends lifting using a soft strap mounted around the headstock where it connects to the upright. This is the way I did it, with no major dramas - though it does understandably throw out the tram on the head. Otherwise these guys aren't tooooo heavy, couple of moderately strong people (if available!) can lift it onto the stand pretty easily.
Hi Styxs What is the rigidity like on the machine BF_20L,, thinking of buying one , getting rid of my HM46B I don't have the room for it ,,So looking at something smaller thanx
Hey mate! No plans for CNC conversion at this time, I'm still enjoying the manual processes (and teaching myself). Lanox is seeming the way to go though for surface rust prevention though, definitely.
Gday David. If it's the ER32 collet to releases from its collet chuck - just remove the bottom nut and then the collet will twist out of it with a bit of upwards pressure. To remove the collet chuck from the spindle - turn to loosen the drawbar square shank while holding still the flats on the sleeve up top (17mm). Keep turning in the loosen direction - it's the turning of the drawbar which ejects the tool. Can take an awful lot of force to eject, depending how tight it's been pulled into the taper. It'll pop. Then just support the tool while the last few turns let it go completely.
Hey mate, i have one of these, had it pulled apart as was going to do a cnc conversion on it but now have needed to put back together to use, im having trouble getting figuring out where the wires from the head go to where on the switches in the control box right behind the control pannel, i did have a diagram but have since had a few clean ups around the shop, your not willing to pop yours off and maybe make a video of which ones go where are you mate? cheers
Hey mate. Yeah I'll throw a video together tomorrow! Are you only interested in the rear of the control panel? Or controller hardware in the rear of the brainbox also?
@@StyxHackshop omg thank you so much, i just need to find where the wires go to that come through the stand off from the head stock, there may be couple that go to the rear if i recall correctly, but most go to the forward and reverse and emergency stop, could you also please show what wires (1 2 3 4) go to on the switch for the chip guard. thanks man, not many would go out of their way to do this.
I bought one of these about 18 months ago. Just recently for apparnt reason it stopped working. Electrically everything was dead. The work light, the speed readout and of corse the motor. I tracked the fault down to what's called the relay circuit board. Replaced that , $80 and all was well again. When I was putting back together again it was difficult to cram all the wires back into the neat little housing. That's when I relized there's probably a lot of heat in there and no airflow. So I made some 30 mm long spacers and spaced the rear lid of the control box out. Made it vermin proof with some mesh . Today I was working the machine fairly hard and it was surprising how warm the mesh got. I'd recommend this mod to anyone that does a lot of milling.
This is a great observation and awesome advice - I'll look to do this, cheers! What sort of ambient temperatures were there when the failure occurred?
It wasn't a particularly hot day , mid 20's maybe. Perhaps it wasn't heat that caused the problem but I didn't want to risk doing it again. Today useing a 34 mm hole cutter was cutting hples through 40 mm aluminum plate. A lot of heat was coming out of the box
Where did you get the parts from? I am looking for some parts for my own bf20l
Hi @garyplozza3036, We have had our machine for about the same length of time, maybe a bit longer, but being in a college workshop it is very seldom used. We now have the same issue, one day everything was fine, I went to use it the next day and no power to the machine at all. How did you pinpoint the fault to the Relay Circuit Board? and where did you get the replacement from. I have done all the usual tests mains power to the rear switch, tested the fuse, reset the E stop etc. but no joy. Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Colin
Hiya mate really appreciate the video. Been shopping for days through dozens of similar size mills and this has helped me decide. Cheers!
Glad my quick lookover helped in either direction!
Markings on the slides are to hold the oil, if it was smooth the oil would be rubbed off in one pass :)
Would be fine in a metal-on-metal area! But it appears in spots where there isn't contact (and won't ever be) between parts. Bit odd.
Mine arrived today, searching for information came across your video
Thank you for this, I have just ordered one myself ( in NZ from Machinery House ), seemed the best around for the price. Im looking forward to your updates on what you find out. Great tip regarding chainsaw oil as way oil, Ive been trying to buy way oil and it only comes in huge tins so I'll give the chain saw oil a go. Out of interest have you had any experience with CRC Noxy oil, Ive been using it on my lathe chuck etc to stop rust from my hand sweat but I dont know if its any good or if it has any long term down sides. I hate CRC 556 so Im a little suspicious
Hey mate - thanks for your comment, hope your new mill is going well!
I haven't used the CRC Noxy, but I'm using Inox MX3 now for lathe and mill non-contact surfaces. Has a smell to it but I'm finding it to be a fantastic product. Cleans up easy but protects surfaces for a long time after application.
Im wondering what the thread is on the draw bar that was supplied. In NZ its Whitworth! can you believe it on a metric mill. My first task will be to make 12mm draw bar so I can buy attachments from any supplier, and use the MT3 fittings I have on my Emco lathe
I'll have to check and see! I've not tried any other tooling yet, but am now curious.
@@StyxHackshop Don't be surprised if its 1/2 WW
@@chrismitchell2316 Yep it will be WW. There is a place in Au that sells metric drawbars for these.
1/2 12 whitworth. Same as the bf16
@@campbellmorrison8540 what's the name of that store?
Hi Styx's so 12 months on are you happy with it. I am tossing up between the BF20 and the MH28.
Hi, thanks for the video! Looking at purchasing the same, noticed an engine crane next to it. Can you tell me how you lifted yours with the crane. Cheers
The manual recommends lifting using a soft strap mounted around the headstock where it connects to the upright. This is the way I did it, with no major dramas - though it does understandably throw out the tram on the head.
Otherwise these guys aren't tooooo heavy, couple of moderately strong people (if available!) can lift it onto the stand pretty easily.
Mine turned up today, I didn't realise it was so heavy!
I used an engine crane to move/put on stand but if you don't have lifting equipment or a, uh, volunteer workforce it might be a bit unwieldy!
Hi Styxs What is the rigidity like on the machine BF_20L,, thinking of buying one , getting rid of my HM46B I don't have the room for it ,,So looking at something smaller thanx
Great informative video. Am still deciding between 20lv and hm46. What are your thoughts on both. I am in cairns and no where near a hare and forbes
HI, There do you plan to convert to cnc , I also live in perth [ mandurah] spray on lanolin is better than oil for anti rust.
Hey mate! No plans for CNC conversion at this time, I'm still enjoying the manual processes (and teaching myself). Lanox is seeming the way to go though for surface rust prevention though, definitely.
Gidday, I wonder if you can show me how to release the collet from the collet holder please?
Gday David.
If it's the ER32 collet to releases from its collet chuck - just remove the bottom nut and then the collet will twist out of it with a bit of upwards pressure.
To remove the collet chuck from the spindle - turn to loosen the drawbar square shank while holding still the flats on the sleeve up top (17mm). Keep turning in the loosen direction - it's the turning of the drawbar which ejects the tool. Can take an awful lot of force to eject, depending how tight it's been pulled into the taper. It'll pop. Then just support the tool while the last few turns let it go completely.
@@StyxHackshop Got it! A but more muscle and wriggling on my part and some encouraging advice from you and they parted. Thank you very much.
I saw the specs and it is heavy. Is it possible to disassemble the mill to move it around the workshop? I don't have a crane or anything.
How to control depth of drill in repeat operation
Hi mate what size of your vise? Thank you. I bought mine last week. I dont have a vise.
Hey mate, i have one of these, had it pulled apart as was going to do a cnc conversion on it but now have needed to put back together to use, im having trouble getting figuring out where the wires from the head go to where on the switches in the control box right behind the control pannel, i did have a diagram but have since had a few clean ups around the shop, your not willing to pop yours off and maybe make a video of which ones go where are you mate? cheers
Hey mate. Yeah I'll throw a video together tomorrow! Are you only interested in the rear of the control panel? Or controller hardware in the rear of the brainbox also?
@@StyxHackshop omg thank you so much, i just need to find where the wires go to that come through the stand off from the head stock, there may be couple that go to the rear if i recall correctly, but most go to the forward and reverse and emergency stop, could you also please show what wires (1 2 3 4) go to on the switch for the chip guard. thanks man, not many would go out of their way to do this.
@@mightyweapon happy to help mate! I'll get them details to you real soon 👍
How much did you buy yours?
Hi Styx, does the motor has enough torque to cut mild steel? Thanks in advance.
Hey mate. Yeah, absolutely! I've had no issues with a 16mm 4 flute endmill taking quite aggressive cuts.
Good to hear @@StyxHackshop
hey, i was wondering if you could give me a quick 2 1/2 year review :)
oh you live in perth..... i'm so sorry
It's a fantastic place to live, other than trying to order stuff from the eastern states!