Your video saved me about $600.00 I got a quote from a tech for almost $800.00 and I was able to purchase the parts for $180.00 and an hour and a half of my time and the AC is blowing cold air again. Thank you Bob Phoenix, Az.
Quick question, if a new condenser fan is installed in a unit and it's smaller than the previous, what are some of the things that can happen? I ask is because i added a new condenser fan and now my inside of my house won't drop below 85 degrees. Any tips?
Journeyman technician here. I stay up between calls watching RUclips. Just wanted to say your graphic setup for these tutorials is top notch! I could have really used this back when there was no internet 😂
I’m a Residential Service Technitian from Ohio. Really appreciate the detail and the effort it took to make this tutorial. Excellent visuals, tips and best practices. I hope you can make more repair tutorials like this in the future.
Just wanted to chime in and tell you how impressed I am at the production values in this video. The text, editing, and 3D models (you even modeled the GRASS!) are next level. I would normally expect a much simpler model. You really outdid yourself. Great job.
With the 20 plus years expieriance I have, still a nice refresher with solid tips. The tutorials just keep getting better! Love the graphics, it’s just satisfying 🔥
Thanks really appreciate this , I need to do mine when the motor comes in a few days, fortunately my company sells voltage meters so I can borrow one for testing. 3 companies I called said the same thing after doing the inspection... fan motor. They wanted $1360.00 to replace it. I called the place where I purchased the unit and they matched me with the OEM motor for $160.00! An hour or two of my time saves me $1200.00!!
Solid video!! I have 2 years in the trade but went and joined the union for a sprinkler fitting apprenticeship. It’s been about a year since I’ve done any HVAC work and this video helped tremendously!!! Appreciate it man!
Super helpful and clear instructions. Helped me out in a bind real quick, Fan motor decided to die when its 100+Degrees outside. Got it changed in a jiffy
Great video, this helped me replace my condenser fan motor. I had trouble removing the fan blade, I used penetrating lubricant and a green scotch guard pad. This wasn't the best method. I switched to 800 grit sandpaper and that worked right away. Use sandpaper for removing the fan blade!
This is a very helpful video. Graphics and step-by-step is great. This is my second time changing a condenser motor. It will be much easier following along and getting it done this time. I did not know about the condenser plug. Thanks.
I really would like to say thank you for taking the time to tell us how to replace the fan motor.But I really would like to see how to check to see if the fan motor is bad in more detail. Again thank you for explaining how to replace.
Forgot to mention most important step. Check if voltage or if correct voltage is going to the motor before condemning the motor. Alot of techs condemned the motor with out testing if proper voltage or voltage is even feeding the motor.
The e plication is very good, I want to mention that the best way to remove the blade after libricar and use sandpaper or steel hand brush or the one that can be placed in the drill is to use a blade extractor so that it does not go away To be affected by imbalance and the rest is very good because the way it explains is a very good orientation when the condensation fan motor is changed.
Fan rotation: For a fan without rotation wires, it will be built as CW or CCW. Simply stating CW or CCW is ambiguous because it depends upon from which end viewpoint of the motor the rotation is specified. Many manufacturers will simply put a rotation arrow on the label. But this is not very easily seen in a catalog and the simple CW/CCW specification is close to useless without more info. The rotation should be specified as viewed from either as Line-power End (LE) or Shaft-pulley End (SE), ie CWSE, CWLE, CCWSE or CCLE (terms used by many manufacturers and catalogs). From outside and above the condenser unit, you will be viewing it from the LE with the shaft down. From that vantage point it is either CWLE or CCWLE (equivalent to CCWSE or CWSE, respectively). Simply spin the fan to move the air out of the unit and then you can see what motor config you need: CWLE or CCWLE.
Very true and the OEM fans don't have rotation "wires" which means when HVAC is replacing a motor, they are not helping out the customer by "downgrading" the appearance with lame exposed wires. HVAC should be required to install what is being replaced...especially motors that are sealed ball bearing and HVAC is installing sleeve bearings. They are not the same.
This is the first time I heard of rotational wires. I am not even sure I understand after watching the video how you actually use them to change the rotation. I agree that rotation labels can be ambiguous! I would think that most motor manufacturers would reference looking at the shaft end when stating CW or CCW. Yes this is going to be opposite to how the viewing would be on an AC condenser once mounted and looking from the top. But if I just gave you a motor by itself not sure why it would ever reference the direction looking from from opposite side of the shaft. Might be totally wrong but that makes sense to me. Thanks
@@condor5635 Many of these HVAC motors are made by aftermarket manufacturers and for them to keep their costs down and the number of motors needed on a service truck to a reasonable amount per day, they offer their motors with CW or CCW wiring, 1/6 HP, 1/5 HP, 1/4 HP, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP etc. depending on which power leads are used as they will offer "one motor does it all" by having maybe 5 to 7 different colored wires to use depending on the requirement. This allows the HVAC technician to have a replacement part "handy" and one that "will work" rather than having to order one made by "Trane" or "Carrier" from the supply house who usually don't stock them but do stock hundreds of "rescue" or "Pro" aftermarket replacements to allow a quick repair in the field. Some customers will refuse and only want the exact motor replacement so that the wires are the same as the worn motor and the shaft length is correct vs. universal and so on. There would not be any reverse wires with the exact replacement motor in that case because its already known which rotation is used.
@@Garth2011 - thanks for the reply. I think I’d go with the OEM fan motor and spend the extra 150 or so instead of getting some aftermarket one. The GE (fan motor that is on a Carrier unit) one I have is 20 years old. I’m guessing it makes a little bit of noise over a brand new one, but it appears to still be running fine now
@@condor5635 Most of the time an OEM motor replacement is best however, as we all know rather well, the public generally takes the less expensive parts or method. When I see condensers with motor reversing wires zip tied onto the fan shroud and mounting studs that stick up and rusting I have to ask how does any technician consider that a fair repair? They don't usually offer the customer a choice, they simply diagnose the problem "you need a new motor" and they pull a rescue motor from the truck and then install it in many cases looking like crap. Yes, it is working but the tech didn't get permission from the customer to alter the final looks and type of motor. Those techs should be quoting the customer OEM estimates and then offer the aftermarket stuff if they choose to go that route. I have seen so many service repairs end up way different than the way things were when they got there as installed when brand new. Torn suction line insulation when it wasn't, lost service caps when they were there, missing screws that were all there before and so on. It's like these guys are on a stop watch when doing service vs. doing the job as needed and moving on. Regarding new motors, I would use aftermarket ones as long as they had ball bearings and were from a legitimate company such as US Motors/Nidec (was G.E.), Dayton, Baldor, etc. Most of the $140 motors are Chinese made and will fail too soon. You can disassemble your existing motor and reapply 20w non-detergent to the bearing fiber packing material at both ends and get many more years life out of them. 3 in 1 oil is surprisingly the correct oil. If, the bearings are the bushing/sleeve type and you oil them soon enough before the metal is scored. Ball bearings are sealed and not serviceable, must replace them or the entire motor.
Hi great video, you pulled the main breaker on the house wall, and you disconnected the fan wires, I've noticed you didn't have to short out the fan capacitor do you not have to do that...?
Great vidio. Thanks for the effort you put into it. I'm no technician but I was wondering what would happen if the fan was positioned slightly incorrect 🤔
The one thing I didn't see you mention was where the blade should sit on the shaft. Should it be in the middle should it be closer to the motor, or should be farther away? I'm not a technician just a homeowner but from my research the general rule of thumb is far enough so it doesn't hit anything but close enough to not cause unnecessary stress on the motor.
My old fan motor has 4 wires brown and white, brown, yellow and black. My new replacement has 3 a red, black and brown.new motor does not have a wire diagram. I know the brown goes into the capacitor and the black supposed to go on the contactor but what about the red wire does it go on the opposite side of the contactor or does it go into the common on the capacitor. Thanks for your time and God bless
Set screw on fan blades should be tightened very hard, just until it breaks. My fan blades came loose and hit copper pipes. No pipes gashed. But blades needed to be reshaped again. Set screw loosened caused more work to me, causing a potential damage. Your video says do not over tighten set screw. The motor mounting nut tightening can break the iron bolts because bolts are only 1/8 inch thick. Brass set screw is 1/4 inch thick, so it may not break easily. Brass alloy is very strong.
Hello. Amazing video. How to make sure it is the motor? Mine situation is. I turn on the air conditioner, smell like a burning, a little sound, hot motor and no turn.
Question: fan motor wires were not left up, we’re not wrapped as you suggest, but we’re placed where screwing down fan pinned them. (On purpose). This seems to make fan less than level…but just enough to keep working. Should I re do?
We have about 20 rental units. What info should we keep for each HVAC? I was thinking that we need to keep a log of the unit size, condenser fan info, capacitor rating, etc etc... What would be a great "worksheet" that would have all the stats we would need to keep for each unit?
You can never have enough useful info. Model #, make, date of manufacturing, commonly failed parts. Useful, up to date MS Excel info database. Better parts stocking, right tools, troubleshooting skills, save tons of time/money. Make sure you know what parts you need so when scrapping out old equipment, you salvage relevant parts that are FREE now, but expensive, hard to get, or long lead time...to get later. Stock capacitors and a few contactors. When replacing entire system, stick with the same brand....it make for easier maintenance & upkeep down the road. Follow a rigorous maintenance plan, performed by trustworthy staff....will save you more tons of money.
If the fan makes sort of a screeching sound when starting up or stopping what do you recommend? It doesn’t happen every time but several times a day for sure. Thanks
Also: Read when u have time: (no rush): Not sure you can answer this but: when they screwed in the fan to the cover, the wires were pinned between motor and cover for 2 of the screws. It seemed to put the fan off balance (small grinding sound when it starts that doesn’t 100 percent go away, but picks up rhythm). I questioned it as it didn’t seem right to me and he said that was the grounding wire. Does that sound right to you? (Otherwise nice and cool).
only vid i've found about the motor itself. so many vids about about the capacitor, not the motor. just looking down in my unit, i pulled out a broken cable tie. I see the wires have fallen and the black one is cut, perhaps by the blades hitting it. I think the cable tie broke in the heat. I'll use metal like you did.
maybe this is a weird question but can you tuck the insulated wires back in the routing tube ? I'm a new to all this and just sorta didn't get why you tie them to the top instead of tucking them in the tube?
I got a quote to replace a condenser fan motor from a professional for $1200 (ECM). I sourced a new motor for $400 and put it in myself in about one hour. Just don't understand the price gouging in this industry.
Most homeowners have no idea the overhead that goes into running a business + making a profit. The insurances alone is depressing. That said, if the motor was the same one he was going to use then $1200 is out of line. Somewhere around $600-$800 should've been about right. I probably wouldn't use those people again.
@@95thousandroses I find its easier just to do the work myself. Contractors, transformers, fan/blower motors and control boards are easy. It is the gas that scares me.
You spoke about fan direction and the reversal wires, but never said what standard wiring is (how purple and yellow are connected) or how to wire it to get reverse direction.
You mentioned a 1075rpm motor replacing an 825rpm motor will draw a higher reading from your multimeter but will it cause any problems besides the false reading?
Wow this is the best instruction video I’ve ever seen on the internet . Thank you for making it .
Totally Agree!
Your video saved me about $600.00 I got a quote from a tech for almost $800.00 and I was able to purchase the parts for $180.00 and an hour and a half of my time and the AC is blowing cold air again. Thank you Bob Phoenix, Az.
My DIY Brother.
I'm a 10 year, hvac veteran. I still like watching these vids to get a refresh on things and maybe pick up a trick here or there, very informative.
Quick question, if a new condenser fan is installed in a unit and it's smaller than the previous, what are some of the things that can happen? I ask is because i added a new condenser fan and now my inside of my house won't drop below 85 degrees. Any tips?
U want one thats atleast the same size or bigger@@pullingthestrings5233
Journeyman technician here. I stay up between calls watching RUclips.
Just wanted to say your graphic setup for these tutorials is top notch!
I could have really used this back when there was no internet 😂
I’m a Residential Service Technitian from Ohio. Really appreciate the detail and the effort it took to make this tutorial. Excellent visuals, tips and best practices. I hope you can make more repair tutorials like this in the future.
Even when I do this regularly I choose to watch your videos. I always get new tips. And by the way, the graphics are topnotch ! Thanks.
DANG... If that was not the most instructional DIY video ever ever... Nice job !!!!!!!!!
This has got to be the best instructional video I have ever seen in my life.
Just wanted to chime in and tell you how impressed I am at the production values in this video. The text, editing, and 3D models (you even modeled the GRASS!) are next level. I would normally expect a much simpler model. You really outdid yourself. Great job.
Lol the grass took effort they could have just went with the color green
Best graphics I've seen in an instructional video.
With the 20 plus years expieriance I have, still a nice refresher with solid tips. The tutorials just keep getting better! Love the graphics, it’s just satisfying 🔥
Came back to say THANK YOU! Was able to replace my fan motor in less than an hour after watching this video a few times and taking notes!
Making being a homeowner a little easier 👊🏼
Thanks really appreciate this , I need to do mine when the motor comes in a few days, fortunately my company sells voltage meters so I can borrow one for testing. 3 companies I called said the same thing after doing the inspection... fan motor. They wanted $1360.00 to replace it. I called the place where I purchased the unit and they matched me with the OEM motor for $160.00! An hour or two of my time saves me $1200.00!!
Solid video!! I have 2 years in the trade but went and joined the union for a sprinkler fitting apprenticeship. It’s been about a year since I’ve done any HVAC work and this video helped tremendously!!! Appreciate it man!
This is one of the best instructional videos I've seen; thank you so much for providing this.
Practical explanation with good clear graphical video is a better technical way for a best installation practices in HVAC field.
This video was like going to class! Better than my college taught me.
Super helpful and clear instructions. Helped me out in a bind real quick, Fan motor decided to die when its 100+Degrees outside. Got it changed in a jiffy
I want to be a HVAC tech and this is the only channel that I subscribe with Love! Great work!
Thank you for your service ❤ love the simple but detail tools needed for the job samples and 3D animation video
Man I love videos like these y'all are like a dad I never had 😂
This explanation was perfect. Very detail oriented and and attentive.
Best HVAC-R channel ever
thank you, thank you, my motor die last night so I'm replacing it today.
Great video, this helped me replace my condenser fan motor. I had trouble removing the fan blade, I used penetrating lubricant and a green scotch guard pad. This wasn't the best method. I switched to 800 grit sandpaper and that worked right away. Use sandpaper for removing the fan blade!
This is a very helpful video. Graphics and step-by-step is great. This is my second time changing a condenser motor. It will be much easier following along and getting it done this time. I did not know about the condenser plug. Thanks.
I really would like to say thank you for taking the time to tell us how to replace the fan motor.But I really would like to see how to check to see if the fan motor is bad in more detail. Again thank you for explaining how to replace.
I really like this teachers style
Awesome video! Straight to the steps and items to double check! Super appreciated! Thank you.
Very good video. Complete,but pretty concise.
Very helpful. Just did this today. And yeah, the dang rotation was backwards, but a simple fix.
Great Manner To Trained
Thanks Sir,
Love From INDIA
This saved me from a pinch. Thanks a bunch!!!!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you!!!
Keep them topnotch videos coming love tuning in thanks again 😎👍
Appreciate your video. Great diagrams and Important information.
Thanks a lot!! Grettings from Mexicali BC México.
Impressive instructional video!
Forgot to mention most important step. Check if voltage or if correct voltage is going to the motor before condemning the motor. Alot of techs condemned the motor with out testing if proper voltage or voltage is even feeding the motor.
Thanks for great install video !!! Where can you get parts without being part of the secret brotherhood in Atlanta ?
The e plication is very good, I want to mention that the best way to remove the blade after libricar and use sandpaper or steel hand brush or the one that can be placed in the drill is to use a blade extractor so that it does not go away To be affected by imbalance and the rest is very good because the way it explains is a very good orientation when the condensation fan motor is changed.
Great video. I love the graphics.
Straight to the damn point. Thank you!
I did my first one yesterday and I'm a female!!!! We are coming into this industry slowly but surely
Me too🎉
Want a cookie ... who cares
Jk. Stay grinding, For the family
Excellent video and was very informative, Thanks!
Great job and video like always
Awesome video as always
Wow sir what an amazing explanation thank you so much
Nice animations really helpful
Wow! It’s a new level 🔥🔥🔥👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Excellent video!
Great and informative video, man
Fan rotation: For a fan without rotation wires, it will be built as CW or CCW. Simply stating CW or CCW is ambiguous because it depends upon from which end viewpoint of the motor the rotation is specified. Many manufacturers will simply put a rotation arrow on the label. But this is not very easily seen in a catalog and the simple CW/CCW specification is close to useless without more info. The rotation should be specified as viewed from either as Line-power End (LE) or Shaft-pulley End (SE), ie CWSE, CWLE, CCWSE or CCLE (terms used by many manufacturers and catalogs). From outside and above the condenser unit, you will be viewing it from the LE with the shaft down. From that vantage point it is either CWLE or CCWLE (equivalent to CCWSE or CWSE, respectively). Simply spin the fan to move the air out of the unit and then you can see what motor config you need: CWLE or CCWLE.
Very true and the OEM fans don't have rotation "wires" which means when HVAC is replacing a motor, they are not helping out the customer by "downgrading" the appearance with lame exposed wires. HVAC should be required to install what is being replaced...especially motors that are sealed ball bearing and HVAC is installing sleeve bearings. They are not the same.
This is the first time I heard of rotational wires. I am not even sure I understand after watching the video how you actually use them to change the rotation. I agree that rotation labels can be ambiguous! I would think that most motor manufacturers would reference looking at the shaft end when stating CW or CCW. Yes this is going to be opposite to how the viewing would be on an AC condenser once mounted and looking from the top. But if I just gave you a motor by itself not sure why it would ever reference the direction looking from from opposite side of the shaft. Might be totally wrong but that makes sense to me. Thanks
@@condor5635 Many of these HVAC motors are made by aftermarket manufacturers and for them to keep their costs down and the number of motors needed on a service truck to a reasonable amount per day, they offer their motors with CW or CCW wiring, 1/6 HP, 1/5 HP, 1/4 HP, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP etc. depending on which power leads are used as they will offer "one motor does it all" by having maybe 5 to 7 different colored wires to use depending on the requirement. This allows the HVAC technician to have a replacement part "handy" and one that "will work" rather than having to order one made by "Trane" or "Carrier" from the supply house who usually don't stock them but do stock hundreds of "rescue" or "Pro" aftermarket replacements to allow a quick repair in the field. Some customers will refuse and only want the exact motor replacement so that the wires are the same as the worn motor and the shaft length is correct vs. universal and so on. There would not be any reverse wires with the exact replacement motor in that case because its already known which rotation is used.
@@Garth2011 - thanks for the reply. I think I’d go with the OEM fan motor and spend the extra 150 or so instead of getting some aftermarket one. The GE (fan motor that is on a Carrier unit) one I have is 20 years old. I’m guessing it makes a little bit of noise over a brand new one, but it appears to still be running fine now
@@condor5635 Most of the time an OEM motor replacement is best however, as we all know rather well, the public generally takes the less expensive parts or method. When I see condensers with motor reversing wires zip tied onto the fan shroud and mounting studs that stick up and rusting I have to ask how does any technician consider that a fair repair? They don't usually offer the customer a choice, they simply diagnose the problem "you need a new motor" and they pull a rescue motor from the truck and then install it in many cases looking like crap. Yes, it is working but the tech didn't get permission from the customer to alter the final looks and type of motor. Those techs should be quoting the customer OEM estimates and then offer the aftermarket stuff if they choose to go that route. I have seen so many service repairs end up way different than the way things were when they got there as installed when brand new. Torn suction line insulation when it wasn't, lost service caps when they were there, missing screws that were all there before and so on. It's like these guys are on a stop watch when doing service vs. doing the job as needed and moving on.
Regarding new motors, I would use aftermarket ones as long as they had ball bearings and were from a legitimate company such as US Motors/Nidec (was G.E.), Dayton, Baldor, etc. Most of the $140 motors are Chinese made and will fail too soon. You can disassemble your existing motor and reapply 20w non-detergent to the bearing fiber packing material at both ends and get many more years life out of them. 3 in 1 oil is surprisingly the correct oil. If, the bearings are the bushing/sleeve type and you oil them soon enough before the metal is scored. Ball bearings are sealed and not serviceable, must replace them or the entire motor.
This was incredibly well done
Hi great video, you pulled the main breaker on the house wall, and you disconnected the fan wires, I've noticed you didn't have to short out the fan capacitor do you not have to do that...?
Great video
Great bro...plz make cfm,efm bearings replacing videos...
awesome videos. I've learned so much. Thanks folks.
Great vidio. Thanks for the effort you put into it. I'm no technician but I was wondering what would happen if the fan was positioned slightly incorrect 🤔
thanks for sharing very informative tutorial..godbless
The one thing I didn't see you mention was where the blade should sit on the shaft. Should it be in the middle should it be closer to the motor, or should be farther away? I'm not a technician just a homeowner but from my research the general rule of thumb is far enough so it doesn't hit anything but close enough to not cause unnecessary stress on the motor.
The best information!!!
Question: Who did your art? It is fantastic!
Thanks very nice tutorial video
The graphics are insane on this! Very cool. What program do you use for this?
My old fan motor has 4 wires brown and white, brown, yellow and black. My new replacement has 3 a red, black and brown.new motor does not have a wire diagram. I know the brown goes into the capacitor and the black supposed to go on the contactor but what about the red wire does it go on the opposite side of the contactor or does it go into the common on the capacitor. Thanks for your time and God bless
Excellent video - thank you!!
Set screw on fan blades should be tightened very hard, just until it breaks. My fan blades came loose and hit copper pipes. No pipes gashed. But blades needed to be reshaped again. Set screw loosened caused more work to me, causing a potential damage. Your video says do not over tighten set screw. The motor mounting nut tightening can break the iron bolts because bolts are only 1/8 inch thick. Brass set screw is 1/4 inch thick, so it may not break easily. Brass alloy is very strong.
Why not a drop of threadlocker instead of warping the bolt, shaft, or fan screw hole?
Hello. Amazing video. How to make sure it is the motor? Mine situation is. I turn on the air conditioner, smell like a burning, a little sound, hot motor and no turn.
Thanks a lot!
Very useful
Super helpful, just replaced my fan motor with the part being $170 I probably saved around $500?
Can you do one for blower universal this helps a lot
Worked perfectly thanks a lot
Question: fan motor wires were not left up, we’re not wrapped as you suggest, but we’re placed where screwing down fan pinned them. (On purpose). This seems to make fan less than level…but just enough to keep working. Should I re do?
We have about 20 rental units. What info should we keep for each HVAC? I was thinking that we need to keep a log of the unit size, condenser fan info, capacitor rating, etc etc... What would be a great "worksheet" that would have all the stats we would need to keep for each unit?
You can never have enough useful info. Model #, make, date of manufacturing, commonly failed parts. Useful, up to date MS Excel info database. Better parts stocking, right tools, troubleshooting skills, save tons of time/money. Make sure you know what parts you need so when scrapping out old equipment, you salvage relevant parts that are FREE now, but expensive, hard to get, or long lead time...to get later. Stock capacitors and a few contactors. When replacing entire system, stick with the same brand....it make for easier maintenance & upkeep down the road. Follow a rigorous maintenance plan, performed by trustworthy staff....will save you more tons of money.
Wow! Awesome video! Same me time and money
If the fan makes sort of a screeching sound when starting up or stopping what do you recommend? It doesn’t happen every time but several times a day for sure. Thanks
What are you using for your animations?
Also: Read when u have time: (no rush): Not sure you can answer this but: when they screwed in the fan to the cover, the wires were pinned between motor and cover for 2 of the screws. It seemed to put the fan off balance (small grinding sound when it starts that doesn’t 100 percent go away, but picks up rhythm). I questioned it as it didn’t seem right to me and he said that was the grounding wire. Does that sound right to you? (Otherwise nice and cool).
Will putting you brown wire with the white stripe also work if you put it on the common leg of the duel capacitor?
Great video and graphics thank you
only vid i've found about the motor itself. so many vids about about the capacitor, not the motor. just looking down in my unit, i pulled out a broken cable tie. I see the wires have fallen and the black one is cut, perhaps by the blades hitting it. I think the cable tie broke in the heat. I'll use metal like you did.
Thank you! You made it easy.
How would you go about verifying the fan is the correct location on the shaft?
Not too deep or too shallow.
maybe this is a weird question but can you tuck the insulated wires back in the routing tube ? I'm a new to all this and just sorta didn't get why you tie them to the top instead of tucking them in the tube?
How do you unwire the fan?
I want to vacuum the leaves that are inside the chamber on the ground.
So I need to remove the top of ac
Thx
I got a quote to replace a condenser fan motor from a professional for $1200 (ECM). I sourced a new motor for $400 and put it in myself in about one hour. Just don't understand the price gouging in this industry.
Most homeowners have no idea the overhead that goes into running a business + making a profit. The insurances alone is depressing. That said, if the motor was the same one he was going to use then $1200 is out of line. Somewhere around $600-$800 should've been about right. I probably wouldn't use those people again.
@@95thousandroses I find its easier just to do the work myself. Contractors, transformers, fan/blower motors and control boards are easy. It is the gas that scares me.
@@joecraigslist9467 Many competent HVAC guys would rather you do the basic stuff yourself IF you're competent. They get bored with the menial tasks.
I would agree that price is totally unreasonable. The guy was trying to make $800.00 on a simple service call.
It’s called business 101 people like have a hard time understanding what it costs to runs a business.. was that price high yes but that business
Thanks I’m finna replace my first one.
Great video! It was a cinch !!
You spoke about fan direction and the reversal wires, but never said what standard wiring is (how purple and yellow are connected) or how to wire it to get reverse direction.
Will an overcurrent mismatching blow the capacitor?
Is it ok to put a 1075rpm motor on a 825 rpm motor
You mentioned a 1075rpm motor replacing an 825rpm motor will draw a higher reading from your multimeter but will it cause any problems besides the false reading?
👍👍👌 hello from Australia- Victoria ❗👍
Would have been great to see exactly where each wire went
wow! thank you for the amazing video! I
Really nice thank u👍🏽
Thanks for this video. Saved me hundreds. Mind telling me what 3D program you used for this video? Thanks!
Hi, i did replace new fan and capacitor compressor kicks in but fan is not turning on. Do I need to change connector?