Agree with all of that, I just would include something. - On high milleage cars to check the cam shaft chain, tensioner and adjuster. - Check oil leaks on the vacum pump.
tensioners are complete trash on this engine ive heard people chains break at 70k and fck up all the cylinders considering mk5 and mk6 have more or less similar prices, why the fck would anyone go for mk5 , when mk6 has upgraded engine mk6 is practically just facelift mostly of mk5
LOVE THIS VIDEO. New Mk5 owner and was having issues left and right. This basically solved all of them and gave me a few things to take care of while I'm under the hood. Thank you SO MUCH for the great information.
does anyone know if all of those are still present in the mk6 mk6 supposed to gbe jkust facelift with a better engine, so i assume some of them are better... but tensioner is probably the most known weakness of this engine
Absolutely spot on. It's funny because I view mine as pretty mint condition but the DSG box is jerky, the aircon has stopped working, my thermostat gets to 90 but rarely stays put, I have a rust patch on one of the sills directly under the wing, a snapped rear coil spring and leaking shocks! Oh and mould has collected on one of the rear door windows (on that piece of felt lining). When I think about all these issues and type them out, it makes me think my car isn't that great after all! I also start questioning how much money I should continue to throw at it. It only has 100k on it as well.
Try a lollipop stick wrapped in a decent bathroom or kitchen surface wipe (glorified wet wipe). Ease your lollipop stick between the rubber seal and the window move back and forth, repeat with all windows and a fresh surface wipe. You’ll be amazed at the gunge that comes out. You can also soak the wet wipes in standard white vinegar (45p per bottle) works a treat and your car will only smell like a fish and chip shop for half an hour.
Invaluable tips, I replaced the DV, PCV, thermostat and cam follower (preventative) after buying my MK5 GTI. 4/10 tips 🤔 - luckily all the parts were fairly cheap.
Thanks for this. I wish I’d known about some of these points when I bought my 2007 GTI. I’ve forked our for a new aircon pump at £500 odd quid and new PCV valve, and my driver side rear arch and sill behind the front arch are rusty and in need of attention. But it drives like a dream and I absolutely love it.
Broken road springs are fairly common in modern cars in general in my experience. I’ve just had to have one done on my Polo. In the past I’ve had them break on a Focus and a Volvo and I know numerous people who’ve also suffered broken springs. I’ve never encountered this in all of my years driving 70’s and 80’s cars. Presumably it’s a combination of cars getting heavier, road condition deteriorating, increasing amounts of speed humps and possibly lesser grade materials in an effort to cut costs. Very insightful video. Red is definitely the right colour for them imho.
I’ve just purchased a 3dr 2005 Stage 2 MK5 GTi, love it! New DV and PCV valve fitted and water pump and tensioner done and DSG box serviced, just one thing that’s annoying me though is that the passenger door suddenly decided not to open from the outside, this I think is another common fault. Both front wings have been replaced in its life time and there is slight corrosion on one of the back wings, other than that over the moon with it, lovely cars!!
Great video (as always) and mk5 buying tips. Past mk5 gti dsg owner myself and replaced the following during 7 years and 100k miles: broken front spring diverter valve pcv valve fuel pump cam follower air con compressor (warranty) You covered them all. Rust was starting on the front wings but not bad enough to replace or paint. One other thing was door handle and window switch plastics which are super soft and wear quickly. But relatively easy and cheap to replace both!
Great vid as usual. Even though I've owned my GTi for 5 years I still watched this to remind me how to look after it. It's good to get advice from someone obviously interested and experienced in the brand and can articulate it well :) Mine is standard as I decided to reserve my limited funds to looking after it properly. This strategy has rewarded me with completely trouble free and fun motoring (I've done over 70000 miles in it). The only issue I have experienced, is the air con stopped working on my way back from the Stelvio Pass in Italy last sunmmr, just when temperatures in Germany were hitting 42! Other than that, a great car. Which is just as well, as it took me two years of hard graft and a diet of pot noodles to save up for it. A few points I'd like to add from my own experience: the seats have a prominent bolster which can wear badly as the mileage clocks up. I have no idea the cost of repair but if you get a hole, like mine, it sometimes catches on clothing. Annoying. And I initially walked away from mine, because I found white scum under the oil filler cap. After some research, I discovered that this is normal for a car that has been standing (which this one had been) - only a bit of condensation. Oh, also the boot tail brake light can be a pain to fix if it doesn't work. For the MOT the light has to work fully, or not at all. So I have just disconnected mine. Oh, one more thing, the rear break discs have a stone guard on them. These corrode and drop into the wheel hub making a hell of a clatter. If that happens, you have to remove the hub and replace the bearing at the same time. It's amazing what value this car offers when you consider it's performance. Great vids. Enjoy them all. Keep them coming :)
One of those brake disc shields got loose on mine, I thought I was dragging the exhaust along the ground when it first started happening! I took the wheel off and cut it off with tin snips.
Great video Andrew - mk5 GTI a popular hot hatch and rightly so and they’re now getting on for almost 15 years old for early cars - red paint can fade in Australian sun the only thing to add 👍
The manual GTI has two thermostats and the dsg has a third. (Mine being the manual)I had to change my inline one as well as it had a slower warm up time (never dropped) but no garage knew about this. £28 part £40 labour.
My opinion on why you see cars rusting on wheel arches, sills and lower doors is the tiny fileings off brake discs as they wear. Obviously as you brake from speed there's air flow around the car, some of these tiny fileings (fall out), stick to the bodywork. As they rust the eat through the paint and cause wider corrosion. Products like IronX solve this. On old cars you will see vehicles litterally bleed when you use this or similar product. I use a min of twice a year on bodywork and as regular as I can on wheels.
HI so someone asked about the PCV valve ,so I thought I would give some info , the valve is designed to prevent crankcase fumes leaking into atmosphere ,on an older car this was simply a valve venting into the inlet before the throttle body or carb butterfly valve, the result was a very slight vacuum in the crankcase, with turbo cars this is not viable so 2 connections are made one to crankcase and inlet before throttle and another after in other words inlet manifold , the valve then helps create a strong vacuum at low boost and switch over to lower vacuum at high boost .to test the valve removing the oil cap whilst engine running should affect idle , the reason is air drawn into crankcase is now not measured by air flow meter .I hope this helps
Couple of other areas on this car, the top of the window where it’s meets the roof , there is a high lip where stones like to hit and if you don’t touch them up quick can turn to rust, another is when the bumper is not fitted correctly in the slots making it uneven or warped , when you open and close the boot it can take the paint off the tailgate lid , east sign of this is a line on the bumper where it’s hitting so you should check the leading edge of the tailgate
No mention of the cam chain needing replacing.... alot of people are unaware that these engines have both a belt and a chain. A whole video dedicated to both the cambelt and cam chain would be greatly recieved 👍
With my '07 DSG the two main issues were the evap system and the AC. With the EVAP I changed the N80 valve which didn't fix it, turns out it was the charcoal canister. Cheap amazon alternative and all fixed! With the AC it was the high pressure sensor, cheap fix thankfully!
Great video, much of this info also applies to the Audi S3 8p platform. I had the spring issue myself just this week so this video was well timed. Also think my thermostat might need replacing as I'm not seeing 90c anymore. They may be getting old, but they are still damn good cars for the money 👍
I have replaced both front wings with new original ones. My car has been rust protected with Dinitrol rust protection both with an undercoating and inside all panels and doors as well. In my country many chooses to have this done when the car is new because of the rainy weather and salt on the roads in the winter. Cars simply starts to rust otherwise after a few years. It is recommended to repeat the process every 3 years for it to be effective
Awesome and informative video. QUESTION: I was unclear on the PCV valve function... when you remove the oil filler cap what symptom indicates a functioning/non-functioning valve?
Another cracking vid. Our mark5 r32 has needed all coil springs done. They snap in winter. Car doesnt even have to be moving! We also got wheelarch lining cut back, as it traps moisture. Coil packs on the v6 were a recall. What else? Weve been lucky, id say.Touch wood. Dsg been fine. No engine probs, despite mainly short trips.Would recommend cleaning and rust protecting underside every couple of years. Ours is starting to show little patches of rust here and there, which you need to keep on top of. Mk 5 shape still looks good i think.
In the mid 2000s a whole bunch of manufacturers from Peugeot to Nissan were suffering from a high number of broken springs. If I remember it was down to one OEM supplier making them from substandard steel.
After owning one for over a year now my experience is as follows. Best driving car Ive ever owned. I had the DSG serviced soon after I bought it as it had been a while and felt a bit slow in changes. I went for a stage 1 remap at Rtech and it transformed the car. Brakes werent the best so replaced them with C-hook discs and green stuff pads. You would want to convert to S3 brake kit if your going above 300bhp imo, as you need that extra bite with 2 pistons. Having to replace my DV valve as stock one is starting to fail after the tune. I'm going to stage 2 tune eventually but my tip is if you're tuning one of these make sure its in good health first. They are an ageing car and things can go wrong so get it done right. Mine has only done 67k miles and is in very good (mostly original) condition. People modify these to crazy bhp, k04 hybrid etc but when you have good example its best to keep it as "GTI" as possible. Your spending the same amount as you did for the car otherwise. Oh and I stock suspension rolls a bit too much for me so fully poly bushing it and lowering springs would be perfect I think.
Thats the biggest quandry for many when deciding when to treat rust because of the potential for a bad paint match afterwards which is gunna be harder to live with than what were just a few spots of corrosion.....
I had an Audi A3 2.0tfsi Quattro and apart from frequent oil changes I changed the cam follower and had thermostat problem which unfortunately I drove with for a few months. After changing it myself (which started a coolant leak so had to redo it) I noticed the engine would pink under load when warm. Got gradually worse and the chain developed a grating rattle on startup so got rid. But it was a great car that gave no other problems in 3 years.
I have the 'regular' model, the TDI, so I will make the comparison of GTI to TDI: 1. Springs don't brake. 2. TDI doesn't have blow off valve. 3. TDIs have no problems with camshafts or valve lifters. But if you use the wrong oil, they will wear out. 4. Carbon buildup is real people. Thrash you TDI regularly to prevent carbon build up. TDI is thrash bullet prove. 5. Thermostat fails at about 150-200k. Costs 10-30 euro to replace + labor. 6. Complete belt kit costs around 250 euros + labor. 7. Don't have dsg. 8. PCV? Never heard of it. 9. AC works. 10. Rust was nowhere to be found until recently. Now on the bottom of the front wings, close the the doors, where a lot of dirt appears. Still excellent rust protection.
Very good video Andrew, what I have noted on VW coil springs they have a black protective coating, they often fail within a couple of coils of the top. In manufacture they are dipped and handled with a automated tool, this leaves tiny dimples of unprotected spring open to later corrosion. Look carefully at a broken coil when you have a chance, you can see where the corrosion starts.
Another way to check the aircon is working is to take one of these little temperature gauges (with the long metal probe) that you use for checking the internal temperature of meat and put it in the vent with the aircon running. If you get 3 degrees, then it is.
Very interesting and valuable advice. However I had a 2006 Gti which I purchased privately and I noticed within a week of ownership heavy oil consumption. Transpires this was a big problem for the VAG group. It would appear to be more prevalent on cars which were not ‘run in’ properly. Mine went through a litre of oil in 250 miles. I decided to sell it to a trader. On reflection I should have had it repaired as it was a fabulous car. Anyone reading this and considering a Gti ... buy one, from someone like Volkswizard as they know their cars. Gti will have been driven hard, so make sure it’s right ... do not buy the first one you see. Hope this info helps ... cheers
Hi Mike, oil consumption was definitely something I considered mentioning but the problem is that it's not something you'll be able to work out when you are buying a used car. You can look for clues like oil can in boot (empty!) and oil spill marks around filler cap and of course low oil level. Part of the issue is that VW main dealeres use 5w/30 oil which is too thin, a change to 5w/40 can mitigate consumption issues but if that doesn't work then it's rebuild time. 1 litre in 250 miles is pretty terrible though,is that due to hard driving or too gentle during run in period?
volkswizard very true .... I checked everything I could before purchase, colour of oil ... start up smoke and all good. I think it is linked to hard driving when new. A colleague had an identical model from new and took his time building up the revs over 1500 miles.... his car subsequently never used oil between services. Everyone should check the cars thoroughly, get a warranty or buy one soon after purchase. One question for you Andy ... mk7 .... would you buy a Gti Performance or an R? Cheers.
Mine 07 gti was doing 1ltr every 700 miles or so. Changing the rocker cover gasket got me to 1ltr every 1500 miles. It was very brittle but i have no idea how that much oil escaped and I didn't notice!
Had one for about 12 years and replaced just about every consumable possible multiple times. First 7 years of ownership were flawless then it started getting a bit rough. Biggest issue in mine has been seized callipers
Helpful video I own a 2009 seat cupra and just found out my thermostat needs replacing 🙏 I wondered why the car was cooling down Will try the pcv test as well. Thanks
Totally right Andrew. I replaced nearly all those things at great expense plus lots more. Absolutely correct about costing a lot to repair if you get a bad example. You need to ask lots of questions about those 10 things plus brakes, bushes, springs interior wear and tear - side bolster on drivers seat, window switches etc. I asked you to do a video like this a while back so great to see you finally got round to it 👍
A great instruction video. Small points that need looking into, make all the difference. I've got the feelers out for a possible future purchase. Keep up the good work!
DV is in a different place of K04 turbos... Just incase you're lucky enough to be looking at an Edition 30 or Pirelli model, they're at the front of the engine and much easier to get to from the top.
Great video! Recently bought an 06 plate off the back of the advice in your last Mk5 GTi video. Managed to find an example that needed many of the points you’ve highlighted 😂. I don’t know how common it is, but had the oil pick up pipe replaced as I understand they can block, potentially leading to oil starvation and engine failure. Noticed recently it’s sounds very disely when warm, so now concerned it may be a cam chain rattle. Have you heard of many requiring replacement cam chains and tensioners?
Everyone was saying to me that disel the noise was normal, changed the cam chain, tesioner and adjuster and runs smooth like a kitty. Specialy on high milleage cars.
Also maybe worth mentioning low oil pressure problems and failing oil pumps that are being reported as the oil pickup pipes become blocked especially on engines where long service plans have been used.
In my 10 years of working for VW never had problems with DSG 6 speed gearbox apart from wiring problems at the 1%. DSG 7 speed is another story on its own with plenty of clutches and mechatronics been replaced!
Reference rust issues you should have mentioned the read boot lid around the VW badge/handle its a well know fault around the edge mine has started to go. Regards the front wings i approached VW and they wouldn't even entertain it, got a set of wings of Europarts the more expensive set i might add, and they were fine though there was a slight bit of fetling by the bodyshop to get them perfect, Tornado red is quite hard to get a colour match with aswell.
This is excellent, and thanks - this was my main item and function check tool when I bought my GTi at the weekend. However, a question on point #4 'Thermostat'. I believe there are 2 thermostats for the GTi (and maybe a 3rd on the R32?) - when you say this needs changing which one are you referring to - the one mounted in/on the engine block or the inline thermostat?
Yup I had a rear coil spring break on mine - I think it’s common on lots of cars as springs these days aren’t finished off properly like they used to be. That’s what I’ve always thought. Oh and the ignition coil packs I had two of back in the day, but as you said before, that problem has been ironed out now! Mine used to use a fair bit of oil - not sure where it was going!
Great overview Andrew. I'm in my early fifties and for many years when faced with a meagre budget I favoured older German cars because they would resist rust longer than their counterparts, particularly those from France. Looking at older cars now, most manufacturers seem to have caught up and indeed I would suggest the French set the example.
Interesting point there. Maybe the Germans have got complacent while the French had a bad reputation and have put this right. To be fair Mk6 Golfs and Sciroccos seem OK. You prob can't see in vid but the wings are stamped as being made in Italy and we are both old enough to be slightly concerned by that 😉
@@volkswizard I admire some of the styling of Italian cars and was in the market for an Alfa 156 estate some years ago until I did some my research and found that owners were complaining of premature rust on the underside.
Glad watched this video, my brother is looking to buy an Edition 30, so a great video with all info on what we need to look out for. Just need to find the exact spec.
I wish this video was available in January. I bought a Mk6 Golf with broken coil spring on the front, and it broke the diagonally opposite one on the back while I was driving it! £800 I won't see again :(
Nice video Andrew. I’ve been lucky as my ed30 has no rust issues whatsoever. I have had the Pcv, air con go though. When the car was about 8, the rear light wiring got that comes out of the top of the tailgate all started breaking. Bought new rear loom from VW and found a good online how to. It involves stripping the rear interior and about 5 hrs but not that difficult. I think quite a few mk5’s get this issue too.
That's been an issue on many cars for many years! Think mine my loom was repalred on passenger side and the clip that secures the rubber boot to the body (where you can't see with tailgate shut) got broken so it let water into boot. Tried to replace it gave up as the wiring was very complicated to unravel so used some black glue/sealant and it did the job. Not ideal but couldn't justify any more time and effort.
I previously owned a mk5 which was a brilliant car but it burned a lot of oil a ltr a month it had 60k on the clock with fsh, just thought i point that out. Apparently it was a common problem. Im a golf enthusiast and have owned mk2,mk3,mk4 and mk5.
Kwik Fit, Bourges Boulevard, Peterborough just told me I need two new rear coil springs fitting and that it could take up to 6 hours to remove them!!! Quoted £320!!!
I think this is the best looking GTI. I've been interested in buying one in Japan recently. Some for sale with less than 50k on the odometer for less than $4000 US (600,000 Yen).
I have replaced most of the parts you mentioned on my edition30 next need to sort my rust out on the rear arch and a few spots on the drivers side around the door shut as you mentioned
Good luck Ian, I am sure it can be dealt with properly but bodyshops offer no guarantee rust wont return and because you can't see what they do before painting and it looks fine collection, I bet they don't treat it as well as you or I would do.
@@volkswizard absolutely right. My Passat had the wing rust issue and VW replaced the fronts but refused to do the rear drivers side. I got in touch with the bodyshop that the VW dealer outsourced to and had it done at my cost. The rust has now returned some 3 years later so another £300-400 to put it right again... German cars eh? 🙄😂
Now I’m no longer doing huge commutes to work I’m definitely gonna buy another mk5, my favourite of all the Golfs, in my opinion far more engaging than the mk7 which left me completely cold on test drive. Black, 3 door, 18 Monza 2s, perfect!
So after doing 6-7 thousand miles ish on my mk5 i decided to check the cam follower. It wasn't even worn it looked brand new. granted the striped banjo bolt was a pain in the ass to get off
A video about the chain tensioner would be insightful they are quite noisy engines and it’s sometimes hard to distinguishing what’s making what noise. How do you tell a worn chain or guides ? Thanks
Great video Andrew, you really know your way around a GTI! Do you know if it's possible to buy replacement Vienna leather? My GTI has a ripped bolster as shown in your video, but the rest of the seats are OK.
Briefly owned a 125k 56 6 spd, flywheel sounded like a bag of spanner’s but went very well regardless. That one had a lot of rust and thermostat issue. Apparently it had been remapped by the previous keeper and DV was replaced at the time. Tempted to buy a 07 standard example with 160k miles- high mileage ok?
Thanks for the amazing video. I'm wondering if I can take these tips for the MK5 R32 because I'm really looking to buy one, the only thing is that I live in Dubai and as you may know we have sand instead of snow unlike the UK. so if you have any tips to help me out I'll really appreciate it.
I have an R32. Pretty much the same problems apart from the engine. Rust is the main thing especially inside the rear arch and sill. Check if the timing chain has been replaced if its a high mileage one.
neil davies rust isn’t my main concern due to the fact that it barely even rains in here. I’m looking for a well looked after example with a full service history from the dealer. That’s not a tall of an order in here.
I’ve a video on my channel of an issue I am having with my MK5 GTI? If you floor the throttle, under hard acceleration there’s a squeal that happens. Mainly between 2500-3500 RPM and gears 3 and 4. I’ve changed the PCV and gasket but no luck. Garage pressure tested the crank ventilation system but didn’t find any leaks. Car doesn’t feel down on power either. Someone suggested the turbo, but the noise has been there about 6 months. I’d assume if it was the turbo it would have let go by now? Another issue is the fans for the HVAC seem to get confused after about 45-50 mins of driving. No longer blows out any of the vents. You can hear the fans blowing in behind the dashboard, but nothing coming out any vents on any fan speed or any direction. Tried a flap reset but didn’t cure it.
Garage need to pressure test the boost system not the breather. You need to check all the rubber hoses for splits, I found one on a car just above the gearbox that fixed an issue. I might be wrong you car seems to hesitate at 4000 rpm as if the ECU is having to manage the boost more than normal. Have you checked/change the diverter valve? O-rings on boost pipes are worth changing, down low under alternator, often leak oil out. I've heard that whistle before somewhere and think it . Is the car remapped? Have you scanned it for codes?
I’ve just discovered your channel, despite that some words am not familiar with i find your video very informative and useful, as i am looking at a ‘weekend’ car and as a child the mk5 gti has been a favourite. Not sure if you answer in YT, but being 2021 would you choose the mk5 gti over the mk6? Or you would say spend a little more and go for the mk6?
Ive a question...... The passat 147kw 200 tfsi b6. Is it a GT or a GTI . Technically in myown opinion mines a highline 200hp so its a GT ...does it deserve a GT bagde. I love your vids. Used to have a citigo
I have a 2017 Mk VII Sport. Still looks new, 15k miles. I don’t like driving it much, but still want a GTI. Think I can get a decent Mk V or VI for under $15k?
Great advice thanks. With the DSG box, do the clutches eventually wear out no matter how they're driven? And what's a reasonable DSGClutch life for a moderately driven GTi?
I looked at a MK5 GTI last week and there was a buzzing noise coming from the dashboard, mainly when I put it in reverse and backed up, do you know what that may have been?
volkswizard no tow bar, a bunch of electrical issues came up but I thought since it had been sitting on a dealership lot for a few months maybe it’s battery was low and was screwing the electrical systems to cause all those codes. I have no clue
Interesting thanks someone knows his stuff a few months ago I bought a Audi A3 2.0 TDi Shortly after got error code p299 replaced DV all ok . Noticed tick over 800-1000 I try the oil filler trick .
Hi Mark, not sure how the TDI works when it comes to PCV but I've never done any work on them on a diesel, mainly 1.8T which has a network of pipes and valves and 2.0 TFSI where it's put into one unit. Not even sure you have a DV but you would have an N75 boost control valve which would cause simlar symptoms.
volkswizard Hi I got mixed up . I’m not a mechanic. I took it to a local garage that check the hoses for leakages they couldn’t find a fault and washed the hands of it . As I’ve not own a car for over 30yrs had company cars . so a bit out of touch looking under bonnet . I track the p299 fault code to the turbo activation valve wasn’t holding vacuum. Bit of a pain to replace but Running fine now . Thanks to great RUclips channels like this one I was pointed in the right direction 👍
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Spot on this. Apart from the Air con and DSG I had 8 of these issues resolved during my ownership. VW replaced my wings no problem at all at the time.
Hi there do you sell mk5 gti
Does it have aircon problem
Agree with all of that, I just would include something.
- On high milleage cars to check the cam shaft chain, tensioner and adjuster.
- Check oil leaks on the vacum pump.
I had to have all of that replaced at 40-50k miles
tensioners are complete trash on this engine
ive heard people chains break at 70k and fck up all the cylinders
considering mk5 and mk6 have more or less similar prices, why the fck would anyone go for mk5 , when mk6 has upgraded engine
mk6 is practically just facelift mostly of mk5
LOVE THIS VIDEO. New Mk5 owner and was having issues left and right. This basically solved all of them and gave me a few things to take care of while I'm under the hood. Thank you SO MUCH for the great information.
Same new mk5 owner lots of problems
Never been disappointed by the content of this channel. Keep it coming 💯👌
@Paul Panayi: He's good isn't he?..He should do TV....
Glad to know I tackled all known Mk5 GTI weaknesses.
-Cam Chain, Cam adjuster, Cam tensioner
-PCV Valve
-Cam follower
-Balance shaft delete
-Oil pickup pipe in sump
-Upgraded diverter valve to GFB DV+
-Oem shocks replaced with quality coilovers
-Intake valves cleaned (walnutblasting)
-Timing belt
-Thermostat
does anyone know if all of those are still present in the mk6
mk6 supposed to gbe jkust facelift with a better engine, so i assume some of them are better...
but tensioner is probably the most known weakness of this engine
Absolutely spot on. It's funny because I view mine as pretty mint condition but the DSG box is jerky, the aircon has stopped working, my thermostat gets to 90 but rarely stays put, I have a rust patch on one of the sills directly under the wing, a snapped rear coil spring and leaking shocks! Oh and mould has collected on one of the rear door windows (on that piece of felt lining). When I think about all these issues and type them out, it makes me think my car isn't that great after all! I also start questioning how much money I should continue to throw at it. It only has 100k on it as well.
Try a lollipop stick wrapped in a decent bathroom or kitchen surface wipe (glorified wet wipe). Ease your lollipop stick between the rubber seal and the window move back and forth, repeat with all windows and a fresh surface wipe.
You’ll be amazed at the gunge that comes out.
You can also soak the wet wipes in standard white vinegar (45p per bottle) works a treat and your car will only smell like a fish and chip shop for half an hour.
Rob Prince what temperature does the gauge normally go down to? Mine sits just below 90, at about 85. Is that ok?
@@amosy8345 your thermostat is stuck open need to change it
Superstoner Jb but it only runs just below 90c, would I be loosing power?
Only 100k what do you mean only 100k?🤣🤣🤦🏻♂️
Invaluable tips, I replaced the DV, PCV, thermostat and cam follower (preventative) after buying my MK5 GTI. 4/10 tips 🤔 - luckily all the parts were fairly cheap.
Did you replace them yourself ? If you paid a garage any estimate on price of replacing 😁?
Thanks for this. I wish I’d known about some of these points when I bought my 2007 GTI. I’ve forked our for a new aircon pump at £500 odd quid and new PCV valve, and my driver side rear arch and sill behind the front arch are rusty and in need of attention. But it drives like a dream and I absolutely love it.
That last sentence is why we put up with this 🤷🏼♀️
Broken road springs are fairly common in modern cars in general in my experience. I’ve just had to have one done on my Polo. In the past I’ve had them break on a Focus and a Volvo and I know numerous people who’ve also suffered broken springs. I’ve never encountered this in all of my years driving 70’s and 80’s cars. Presumably it’s a combination of cars getting heavier, road condition deteriorating, increasing amounts of speed humps and possibly lesser grade materials in an effort to cut costs.
Very insightful video. Red is definitely the right colour for them imho.
I’ve just purchased a 3dr 2005 Stage 2 MK5 GTi, love it! New DV and PCV valve fitted and water pump and tensioner done and DSG box serviced, just one thing that’s annoying me though is that the passenger door suddenly decided not to open from the outside, this I think is another common fault. Both front wings have been replaced in its life time and there is slight corrosion on one of the back wings, other than that over the moon with it, lovely cars!!
Agree with the doow mehanism as a comon issue on mk5.
What’s the DV ?
Great video (as always) and mk5 buying tips. Past mk5 gti dsg owner myself and replaced the following during 7 years and 100k miles:
broken front spring
diverter valve
pcv valve
fuel pump cam follower
air con compressor (warranty)
You covered them all. Rust was starting on the front wings but not bad enough to replace or paint.
One other thing was door handle and window switch plastics which are super soft and wear quickly. But relatively easy and cheap to replace both!
👍
Great vid as usual. Even though I've owned my GTi for 5 years I still watched this to remind me how to look after it. It's good to get advice from someone obviously interested and experienced in the brand and can articulate it well :) Mine is standard as I decided to reserve my limited funds to looking after it properly. This strategy has rewarded me with completely trouble free and fun motoring (I've done over 70000 miles in it). The only issue I have experienced, is the air con stopped working on my way back from the Stelvio Pass in Italy last sunmmr, just when temperatures in Germany were hitting 42! Other than that, a great car. Which is just as well, as it took me two years of hard graft and a diet of pot noodles to save up for it. A few points I'd like to add from my own experience: the seats have a prominent bolster which can wear badly as the mileage clocks up. I have no idea the cost of repair but if you get a hole, like mine, it sometimes catches on clothing. Annoying. And I initially walked away from mine, because I found white scum under the oil filler cap. After some research, I discovered that this is normal for a car that has been standing (which this one had been) - only a bit of condensation. Oh, also the boot tail brake light can be a pain to fix if it doesn't work. For the MOT the light has to work fully, or not at all. So I have just disconnected mine. Oh, one more thing, the rear break discs have a stone guard on them. These corrode and drop into the wheel hub making a hell of a clatter. If that happens, you have to remove the hub and replace the bearing at the same time. It's amazing what value this car offers when you consider it's performance. Great vids. Enjoy them all. Keep them coming :)
One of those brake disc shields got loose on mine, I thought I was dragging the exhaust along the ground when it first started happening! I took the wheel off and cut it off with tin snips.
@@OnTheRob Yeh, that's what I did.
The first time I saw this car was on Top Gear in 2007/8. I loved it but was too poor to get it. Now it's time to get one. Thank you!
Great video Andrew - mk5 GTI a popular hot hatch and rightly so and they’re now getting on for almost 15 years old for early cars - red paint can fade in Australian sun the only thing to add 👍
I'm glad I'm not really a fan of DSG..Good old Manual-Box for me any day of the week....
Have had two mkv Gti with dsg. 55k driven to 190k and my new one 52k to 71k. Neither gearbox has skipped a beat. Haven’t come across a decent manual
I agree but the clutches in vag are made from paper
The manual GTI has two thermostats and the dsg has a third. (Mine being the manual)I had to change my inline one as well as it had a slower warm up time (never dropped) but no garage knew about this. £28 part £40 labour.
My opinion on why you see cars rusting on wheel arches, sills and lower doors is the tiny fileings off brake discs as they wear. Obviously as you brake from speed there's air flow around the car, some of these tiny fileings (fall out), stick to the bodywork. As they rust the eat through the paint and cause wider corrosion.
Products like IronX solve this. On old cars you will see vehicles litterally bleed when you use this or similar product. I use a min of twice a year on bodywork and as regular as I can on wheels.
Wow, did not know about water pump & timing belt have to be changed every 5 years, regardless of mileage!!! Another great video tips on the mk5 mate 👍
have you ever considered putting a go pro on your head for filming, much easier for you and better viewing for us the viewers.....................
Couldn't agree more! Just spent 22 hours doing a paint correction on my red mk5 cause quarantine things 😂
HI so someone asked about the PCV valve ,so I thought I would give some info , the valve is designed to prevent crankcase fumes leaking into atmosphere ,on an older car this was simply a valve venting into the inlet before the throttle body or carb butterfly valve, the result was a very slight vacuum in the crankcase, with turbo cars this is not viable so 2 connections are made one to crankcase and inlet before throttle and another after in other words inlet manifold , the valve then helps create a strong vacuum at low boost and switch over to lower vacuum at high boost .to test the valve removing the oil cap whilst engine running should affect idle , the reason is air drawn into crankcase is now not measured by air flow meter .I hope this helps
Couple of other areas on this car, the top of the window where it’s meets the roof , there is a high lip where stones like to hit and if you don’t touch them up quick can turn to rust, another is when the bumper is not fitted correctly in the slots making it uneven or warped , when you open and close the boot it can take the paint off the tailgate lid , east sign of this is a line on the bumper where it’s hitting so you should check the leading edge of the tailgate
No mention of the cam chain needing replacing.... alot of people are unaware that these engines have both a belt and a chain.
A whole video dedicated to both the cambelt and cam chain would be greatly recieved 👍
With my '07 DSG the two main issues were the evap system and the AC. With the EVAP I changed the N80 valve which didn't fix it, turns out it was the charcoal canister. Cheap amazon alternative and all fixed! With the AC it was the high pressure sensor, cheap fix thankfully!
Great video, much of this info also applies to the Audi S3 8p platform. I had the spring issue myself just this week so this video was well timed. Also think my thermostat might need replacing as I'm not seeing 90c anymore. They may be getting old, but they are still damn good cars for the money 👍
I have replaced both front wings with new original ones. My car has been rust protected with Dinitrol rust protection both with an undercoating and inside all panels and doors as well. In my country many chooses to have this done when the car is new because of the rainy weather and salt on the roads in the winter. Cars simply starts to rust otherwise after a few years. It is recommended to repeat the process every 3 years for it to be effective
This is all true. Had both rear springs changed, new condensor, but you forgot seazed rear calibers. Huge problem on MKV
Awesome and informative video. QUESTION: I was unclear on the PCV valve function... when you remove the oil filler cap what symptom indicates a functioning/non-functioning valve?
Another cracking vid. Our mark5 r32 has needed all coil springs done. They snap in winter. Car doesnt even have to be moving! We also got wheelarch lining cut back, as it traps moisture. Coil packs on the v6 were a recall. What else? Weve been lucky, id say.Touch wood. Dsg been fine. No engine probs, despite mainly short trips.Would recommend cleaning and rust protecting underside every couple of years. Ours is starting to show little patches of rust here and there, which you need to keep on top of. Mk 5 shape still looks good i think.
👍
In the mid 2000s a whole bunch of manufacturers from Peugeot to Nissan were suffering from a high number of broken springs. If I remember it was down to one OEM supplier making them from substandard steel.
Thank you! I'm going to potentially buy an MK5 in a few hours and this video helped me to get prepped up
After owning one for over a year now my experience is as follows. Best driving car Ive ever owned. I had the DSG serviced soon after I bought it as it had been a while and felt a bit slow in changes. I went for a stage 1 remap at Rtech and it transformed the car. Brakes werent the best so replaced them with C-hook discs and green stuff pads. You would want to convert to S3 brake kit if your going above 300bhp imo, as you need that extra bite with 2 pistons. Having to replace my DV valve as stock one is starting to fail after the tune. I'm going to stage 2 tune eventually but my tip is if you're tuning one of these make sure its in good health first. They are an ageing car and things can go wrong so get it done right. Mine has only done 67k miles and is in very good (mostly original) condition. People modify these to crazy bhp, k04 hybrid etc but when you have good example its best to keep it as "GTI" as possible. Your spending the same amount as you did for the car otherwise. Oh and I stock suspension rolls a bit too much for me so fully poly bushing it and lowering springs would be perfect I think.
Thats the biggest quandry for many when deciding when to treat rust because of the potential for a bad paint match afterwards which is gunna be harder to live with than what were just a few spots of corrosion.....
I had an Audi A3 2.0tfsi Quattro and apart from frequent oil changes I changed the cam follower and had thermostat problem which unfortunately I drove with for a few months. After changing it myself (which started a coolant leak so had to redo it) I noticed the engine would pink under load when warm. Got gradually worse and the chain developed a grating rattle on startup so got rid. But it was a great car that gave no other problems in 3 years.
I have the 'regular' model, the TDI, so I will make the comparison of GTI to TDI:
1. Springs don't brake.
2. TDI doesn't have blow off valve.
3. TDIs have no problems with camshafts or valve lifters. But if you use the wrong oil, they will wear out.
4. Carbon buildup is real people. Thrash you TDI regularly to prevent carbon build up. TDI is thrash bullet prove.
5. Thermostat fails at about 150-200k. Costs 10-30 euro to replace + labor.
6. Complete belt kit costs around 250 euros + labor.
7. Don't have dsg.
8. PCV? Never heard of it.
9. AC works.
10. Rust was nowhere to be found until recently. Now on the bottom of the front wings, close the the doors, where a lot of dirt appears. Still excellent rust protection.
Very good video Andrew, what I have noted on VW coil springs they have a black protective coating, they often fail within a couple of coils of the top. In manufacture they are dipped and handled with a automated tool, this leaves tiny dimples of unprotected spring open to later corrosion. Look carefully at a broken coil when you have a chance, you can see where the corrosion starts.
Thanks Alistair, I am sure I'll see a broken spring again soon so I'll be sure to take a closer look!
The problem with part painting a red car is that under street lamps at night you can easily see the colour difference.
Another way to check the aircon is working is to take one of these little temperature gauges (with the long metal probe) that you use for checking the internal temperature of meat and put it in the vent with the aircon running. If you get 3 degrees, then it is.
Really good review proper good all rounders the mk5 I've got a 07 3 door with 17 thousand miles on the clock drives as tight as a drum
Very interesting and valuable advice. However I had a 2006 Gti which I purchased privately and I noticed within a week of ownership heavy oil consumption. Transpires this was a big problem for the VAG group. It would appear to be more prevalent on cars which were not ‘run in’ properly. Mine went through a litre of oil in 250 miles. I decided to sell it to a trader. On reflection I should have had it repaired as it was a fabulous car. Anyone reading this and considering a Gti ... buy one, from someone like Volkswizard as they know their cars. Gti will have been driven hard, so make sure it’s right ... do not buy the first one you see. Hope this info helps ... cheers
Hi Mike, oil consumption was definitely something I considered mentioning but the problem is that it's not something you'll be able to work out when you are buying a used car. You can look for clues like oil can in boot (empty!) and oil spill marks around filler cap and of course low oil level. Part of the issue is that VW main dealeres use 5w/30 oil which is too thin, a change to 5w/40 can mitigate consumption issues but if that doesn't work then it's rebuild time. 1 litre in 250 miles is pretty terrible though,is that due to hard driving or too gentle during run in period?
volkswizard very true .... I checked everything I could before purchase, colour of oil ... start up smoke and all good. I think it is linked to hard driving when new. A colleague had an identical model from new and took his time building up the revs over 1500 miles.... his car subsequently never used oil between services. Everyone should check the cars thoroughly, get a warranty or buy one soon after purchase. One question for you Andy ... mk7 .... would you buy a Gti Performance or an R? Cheers.
I had this issue when using 5/30w oil massive difference using 5/40w full synthetic oil very little oil usage.
Mine 07 gti was doing 1ltr every 700 miles or so. Changing the rocker cover gasket got me to 1ltr every 1500 miles. It was very brittle but i have no idea how that much oil escaped and I didn't notice!
Mike Rimmer Liqui Moly 5w40 or Millers Nanodrive is the best oil for these cars and also I think it depends on how hard you drive the car...
Had one for about 12 years and replaced just about every consumable possible multiple times. First 7 years of ownership were flawless then it started getting a bit rough. Biggest issue in mine has been seized callipers
What a wonderful video. I currently own a MK4 GTI and this has helped put to rest a few worries I had about getting a MK5
Helpful video I own a 2009 seat cupra and just found out my thermostat needs replacing 🙏 I wondered why the car was cooling down
Will try the pcv test as well. Thanks
No problem, hopefully PCV will be OK but if I had to do 1 of those 2 jobs it wouldn't be thermostat!
I had the same problem with my polo 9n3... Easy chanching the termostat resolve all problems.
Totally right Andrew. I replaced nearly all those things at great expense plus lots more. Absolutely correct about costing a lot to repair if you get a bad example. You need to ask lots of questions about those 10 things plus brakes, bushes, springs interior wear and tear - side bolster on drivers seat, window switches etc. I asked you to do a video like this a while back so great to see you finally got round to it 👍
Great video. I wish I knew all of that when I bought mine almost 4 years ago.
Thank you for your very informative videos. Much appreciated.
Essentials to make your mkv purchase even better... Rns 510, sunroof, dsg, 3door, xenon, mid or high line
A great instruction video. Small points that need looking into, make all the difference. I've got the feelers out for a possible future purchase. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Graham, happy hunting 👍👍
DV is in a different place of K04 turbos... Just incase you're lucky enough to be looking at an Edition 30 or Pirelli model, they're at the front of the engine and much easier to get to from the top.
Great video! Recently bought an 06 plate off the back of the advice in your last Mk5 GTi video. Managed to find an example that needed many of the points you’ve highlighted 😂. I don’t know how common it is, but had the oil pick up pipe replaced as I understand they can block, potentially leading to oil starvation and engine failure. Noticed recently it’s sounds very disely when warm, so now concerned it may be a cam chain rattle. Have you heard of many requiring replacement cam chains and tensioners?
Ben Price I have a noisy chain as well I think but like you said they sound like a diesel when warm so it’s hard to tell
Yes many need the cam chain changing, however the engine always sounds like diesel even when running spot on.
Everyone was saying to me that disel the noise was normal, changed the cam chain, tesioner and adjuster and runs smooth like a kitty. Specialy on high milleage cars.
Also maybe worth mentioning low oil pressure problems and failing oil pumps that are being reported as the oil pickup pipes become blocked especially on engines where long service plans have been used.
In my 10 years of working for VW never had problems with DSG 6 speed gearbox apart from wiring problems at the 1%. DSG 7 speed is another story on its own with plenty of clutches and mechatronics been replaced!
Reference rust issues you should have mentioned the read boot lid around the VW badge/handle its a well know fault around the edge mine has started to go.
Regards the front wings i approached VW and they wouldn't even entertain it, got a set of wings of Europarts the more expensive set i might add, and they were fine though there was a slight bit of fetling by the bodyshop to get them perfect, Tornado red is quite hard to get a colour match with aswell.
This is excellent, and thanks - this was my main item and function check tool when I bought my GTi at the weekend. However, a question on point #4 'Thermostat'. I believe there are 2 thermostats for the GTi (and maybe a 3rd on the R32?) - when you say this needs changing which one are you referring to - the one mounted in/on the engine block or the inline thermostat?
Yup I had a rear coil spring break on mine - I think it’s common on lots of cars as springs these days aren’t finished off properly like they used to be. That’s what I’ve always thought. Oh and the ignition coil packs I had two of back in the day, but as you said before, that problem has been ironed out now! Mine used to use a fair bit of oil - not sure where it was going!
Great overview Andrew. I'm in my early fifties and for many years when faced with a meagre budget I favoured older German cars because they would resist rust longer than their counterparts, particularly those from France. Looking at older cars now, most manufacturers seem to have caught up and indeed I would suggest the French set the example.
Interesting point there. Maybe the Germans have got complacent while the French had a bad reputation and have put this right. To be fair Mk6 Golfs and Sciroccos seem OK. You prob can't see in vid but the wings are stamped as being made in Italy and we are both old enough to be slightly concerned by that 😉
@@volkswizard I admire some of the styling of Italian cars and was in the market for an Alfa 156 estate some years ago until I did some my research and found that owners were complaining of premature rust on the underside.
The dsg is the best by far...and the best one is the ED30 with DSG 😁
Glad watched this video, my brother is looking to buy an Edition 30, so a great video with all info on what we need to look out for. Just need to find the exact spec.
Also worth checking for sticky rear callipers.
I wish this video was available in January. I bought a Mk6 Golf with broken coil spring on the front, and it broke the diagonally opposite one on the back while I was driving it! £800 I won't see again :(
Nice video Andrew. I’ve been lucky as my ed30 has no rust issues whatsoever. I have had the Pcv, air con go though. When the car was about 8, the rear light wiring got that comes out of the top of the tailgate all started breaking. Bought new rear loom from VW and found a good online how to. It involves stripping the rear interior and about 5 hrs but not that difficult. I think quite a few mk5’s get this issue too.
That's been an issue on many cars for many years! Think mine my loom was repalred on passenger side and the clip that secures the rubber boot to the body (where you can't see with tailgate shut) got broken so it let water into boot. Tried to replace it gave up as the wiring was very complicated to unravel so used some black glue/sealant and it did the job. Not ideal but couldn't justify any more time and effort.
I previously owned a mk5 which was a brilliant car but it burned a lot of oil a ltr a month it had 60k on the clock with fsh, just thought i point that out.
Apparently it was a common problem.
Im a golf enthusiast and have owned mk2,mk3,mk4 and mk5.
I noticed slight corrosion on my mk5 wings so i just pulled out those silly foam pieces
If I’m not worong on UK you have guarantee for that and on VW oficial dealer they will sort it for free
Kwik Fit, Bourges Boulevard, Peterborough just told me I need two new rear coil springs fitting and that it could take up to 6 hours to remove them!!! Quoted £320!!!
You can't get slower than a Kwik Fit fitter
I’d add bumper mounts in the centre of the front bumper and on the drivers side for the rear bumper these seem to rot out on earlier models.
I think this is the best looking GTI. I've been interested in buying one in Japan recently. Some for sale with less than 50k on the odometer for less than $4000 US (600,000 Yen).
Hiya! my thermostat is normally around 45 so im guessing mine needs replacing. cheers for that! ill get one on order.
Great video! I'm actually in the market for an ED30, so it's great to know the bits to look out for!
I have replaced most of the parts you mentioned on my edition30 next need to sort my rust out on the rear arch and a few spots on the drivers side around the door shut as you mentioned
Good luck Ian, I am sure it can be dealt with properly but bodyshops offer no guarantee rust wont return and because you can't see what they do before painting and it looks fine collection, I bet they don't treat it as well as you or I would do.
@@volkswizard absolutely right. My Passat had the wing rust issue and VW replaced the fronts but refused to do the rear drivers side. I got in touch with the bodyshop that the VW dealer outsourced to and had it done at my cost. The rust has now returned some 3 years later so another £300-400 to put it right again...
German cars eh? 🙄😂
Now I’m no longer doing huge commutes to work I’m definitely gonna buy another mk5, my favourite of all the Golfs, in my opinion far more engaging than the mk7 which left me completely cold on test drive. Black, 3 door, 18 Monza 2s, perfect!
Bang on, I had to replace the dsg box in my mk5 GTI due to PRNDS flashing, Let’s just say the wallet didn’t like it.... 😂 good work mate
Sugar, sorry to hear that. Did they try mechatronics module first?
What actually did u replace and it stopped the lights flashing. Was it the clutch or the gear box itself
So after doing 6-7 thousand miles ish on my mk5 i decided to check the cam follower. It wasn't even worn it looked brand new. granted the striped banjo bolt was a pain in the ass to get off
A video about the chain tensioner would be insightful they are quite noisy engines and it’s sometimes hard to distinguishing what’s making what noise. How do you tell a worn chain or guides ? Thanks
Great video Andrew, you really know your way around a GTI! Do you know if it's possible to buy replacement Vienna leather? My GTI has a ripped bolster as shown in your video, but the rest of the seats are OK.
Rust !
Nice channel, you put on me a huge Gti desire. Unfortunately I had a T roc.
T Roc still a good car
What about oil consumption on both ed30 and standard? Ty! Verry good content!
No mention of inlet manifold........I’ve had 2 Skoda Octavia II VRS (2006 and 2010) both had the same issue c75,000 Miles. It’s a c£400 part.....
Briefly owned a 125k 56 6 spd, flywheel sounded like a bag of spanner’s but went very well regardless. That one had a lot of rust and thermostat issue. Apparently it had been remapped by the previous keeper and DV was replaced at the time.
Tempted to buy a 07 standard example with 160k miles- high mileage ok?
Thanks for the amazing video. I'm wondering if I can take these tips for the MK5 R32 because I'm really looking to buy one, the only thing is that I live in Dubai and as you may know we have sand instead of snow unlike the UK. so if you have any tips to help me out I'll really appreciate it.
I have an R32. Pretty much the same problems apart from the engine. Rust is the main thing especially inside the rear arch and sill. Check if the timing chain has been replaced if its a high mileage one.
neil davies rust isn’t my main concern due to the fact that it barely even rains in here. I’m looking for a well looked after example with a full service history from the dealer. That’s not a tall of an order in here.
@@almehgub your sorted then mate. With no rain there bullet proof
Great content, informative, well researched and fantastic presentation.
Thanks!
Blimey, glad you liked it and thanks for commenting 🙌
I’ve a video on my channel of an issue I am having with my MK5 GTI? If you floor the throttle, under hard acceleration there’s a squeal that happens. Mainly between 2500-3500 RPM and gears 3 and 4. I’ve changed the PCV and gasket but no luck. Garage pressure tested the crank ventilation system but didn’t find any leaks. Car doesn’t feel down on power either. Someone suggested the turbo, but the noise has been there about 6 months. I’d assume if it was the turbo it would have let go by now?
Another issue is the fans for the HVAC seem to get confused after about 45-50 mins of driving. No longer blows out any of the vents. You can hear the fans blowing in behind the dashboard, but nothing coming out any vents on any fan speed or any direction. Tried a flap reset but didn’t cure it.
Garage need to pressure test the boost system not the breather. You need to check all the rubber hoses for splits, I found one on a car just above the gearbox that fixed an issue. I might be wrong you car seems to hesitate at 4000 rpm as if the ECU is having to manage the boost more than normal. Have you checked/change the diverter valve? O-rings on boost pipes are worth changing, down low under alternator, often leak oil out. I've heard that whistle before somewhere and think it . Is the car remapped? Have you scanned it for codes?
I’ve just discovered your channel, despite that some words am not familiar with i find your video very informative and useful, as i am looking at a ‘weekend’ car and as a child the mk5 gti has been a favourite.
Not sure if you answer in YT, but being 2021 would you choose the mk5 gti over the mk6? Or you would say spend a little more and go for the mk6?
N80 purge valve and drivers side axle are another 2 common failures.
Ive a question......
The passat 147kw 200 tfsi b6.
Is it a GT or a GTI .
Technically in myown opinion mines a highline 200hp so its a GT ...does it deserve a GT bagde.
I love your vids.
Used to have a citigo
I have a 2017 Mk VII Sport. Still looks new, 15k miles. I don’t like driving it much, but still want a GTI. Think I can get a decent Mk V or VI for under $15k?
Another good vlog andrew you with have to do one on a audi a3 my mate woud like to have a look at that
The car looks fine. Owner did a good care of it.
I had a timing issue with my latest MK5 GTI costly repair!!
Any issues with motor mounts and the dog-bone connector going bad on these older mk5’s?
I’m not sure if this question has been asked but do you sell cars yourself??
Great advice thanks. With the DSG box, do the clutches eventually wear out no matter how they're driven? And what's a reasonable DSGClutch life for a moderately driven GTi?
It’s the metal fasteners on the rear bumpers that rust and blisters the quarter where
they meet
My dream car now is golf 5 gti ed30 or edition perili ❤
Hi, great videos, love your channel, hoping for some advice, I have just bought a 1.4 gt sport 170, which of these points would apply to that?
You forgot about 2 issues - the damn flapper motors and the hatch wiring loom that breaks.
Didn’t forget, just not top 10 in my professional opinion. Could do 50 things if I want to but 20 mins is already too long for a video
Are these engines suffer from the piston ring related oil consumption issue as well?
I looked at a MK5 GTI last week and there was a buzzing noise coming from the dashboard, mainly when I put it in reverse and backed up, do you know what that may have been?
Would love to help but hard to say, never heard it on another car. Has it had a tow bar fitted?
volkswizard no tow bar, a bunch of electrical issues came up but I thought since it had been sitting on a dealership lot for a few months maybe it’s battery was low and was screwing the electrical systems to cause all those codes. I have no clue
Interesting thanks
someone knows his stuff
a few months ago I
bought a Audi A3 2.0 TDi
Shortly after got error code p299 replaced DV all ok . Noticed tick over 800-1000 I try the oil filler trick .
Hi Mark, not sure how the TDI works when it comes to PCV but I've never done any work on them on a diesel, mainly 1.8T which has a network of pipes and valves and 2.0 TFSI where it's put into one unit. Not even sure you have a DV but you would have an N75 boost control valve which would cause simlar symptoms.
volkswizard
Hi I got mixed up . I’m not a mechanic. I took it to a local garage that check the hoses for leakages they couldn’t find a fault and washed the hands of it .
As I’ve not own a car for over 30yrs had company cars . so a bit out of touch looking under bonnet .
I track the p299 fault code to the turbo activation valve wasn’t holding vacuum.
Bit of a pain to replace but Running fine now .
Thanks to great RUclips channels like this one I was pointed in the right direction 👍
What's the difference between the edition 30 and standard GTi?
when my car was on cold. foot on the brake, gears on Drive. The car judder. Is it because its still cold or the gearbox is not in good condition?