Thanks for watching the video everyone, I hope it helps with your TMM! Don't forget to check out my rust painting tutorial for more metalwork ideas! 😃 ruclips.net/video/Mg3tFIN8R7o/видео.html
Thanks mate! I use Lahmian Medium from GW when thinning contrast paint, but there are many brands of medium available that will also do the job fine! 😀
I've found that you can acheive some amazing results by simply adding a drop of color to your metallics. A little brown and red makes it look old and rusted. Blue is good for a knight's armor, green for elven armor. Etc.
@@TheHobbyGrotto how far can you go with this? I want to make a purple knight (due to the material of the metal he is using in the particular fantasy setting) so just adding a FEW drops will really purple-up the model rather than washing afterwards?
I would certainly test it out, I've not tried mixing purple with metallics before but I have done it with other colours so there is potential. If it doesn't work out you still have the purple glazing method which will definitely work, but it's always good to do some experiments because amazing results can come from it 😊
Really enjoyed this! Though I use some of these techniques already, I picked up some great tips from this video. Will definitely be using them on my Bretonnian project!
Awesome, i get my first 3d printer next week and most paintstyles are way to colorful for me and i love metallics. This is the first video in 3 days that makes me feel like i found something i would like to settle for. Now to order some paints, print some busts and start painting :).
Fantastic !! I have been painting for a while and i have tried this out today and my metal's look much better, ,much smoother using this method . Thank you for the video 👍
Excellent style of tutorial. I hope you roll out more clips like this to tackle other topics (leather/fabric/fur, hair/beard, skin, wooden handle/shield, skull/horn...) Keep up the good work.
Great tutorial! I typically use models from different war games for DnD so I'm not super familiar with individual armies, so oddly specific question: What models are those armor pieces from?
Thankyou, glad you liked it! I actually have had a few questions on these pieces, they are spare breastplates/torsos from the Citadel Putrid Blightkings kit. Some of them are not pure breastplates so I cut them down a bit for the video 😄
Black is tricky. Generally I paint it a real dark grey and then wash it with black. For armour, I think painting it black then drybrushing the edges with a dark silver should read quite well, though I don't often paint black armour so definitely test it out first 😃 For drybrushes, alot of people recommend cheap makeup brushes. I use inexpensive art store brushes, in a size similar to the old GW Tank Brush, which was like the ultimate drybrush/terrain brush. Specifically I use Mont Marte Gallery Series, size 8 and up. In this video I was primarily using a size 12. Hope that helped!
@@TheHobbyGrotto awesome info thank you! I’ll be looking into getting a decent dry brush as it’s not a technique I do often but want to use on my SC. It’ll be black armour so I’ll be sure to use your advice - testing it first 😄
I love this video, I just got into the hobby and started with death guard. I wanted to do them in a Tim burton style and the 3rd example you showed is really nice to get the metal examples I've seen in nightmare before Christmas, so I'm definitely using that recipe for my armour 😅 Thanks for this❤
Thankyou, glad it has helped inspire you! 😀 I have another video on the channel you may also find interesting, painting a Blight King. It was a colour scheme inspired by classic Deathguard, so lots of gross Nurgle things in there. I've also got another Nurgle related video coming soon so stay tuned!
This gave me the idea to use Rustoleum paint and primer metallic spray paint. It comes in tons of different colors. Then I can just hit it with a black wash and be done. My model is quite large so brushing would take a very long time.
@@TheHobbyGrotto I don’t paint Miniatures, but sculpt and paint horror figures. Your my new go to channel for tips. This amour is very Court of the dead 👍🏻
That's very cool, I'm always meaning to do more sculpting, it's such an art form! Anything horror themed is fun to paint, I've got a bit of a preference for it, so hopefully you find some interesting stuff on the channel 😊
Thankyou! And respect to a fellow Soulblight player! I haven't painted any of the new Blood Knights yet but I'm probably going to use the old worn armour style from my tutorial 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto I have 5 blood knights primed and ready to go and color scheme mostly worked out. Wanting to incorporate a grim dark aesthetic because I hate squeaky clean paint jobs especially for undead haha.
Niiiiice! I agree, I paint my undead in a similar way. I'm running a horde army with skellies and zombies, so I haven't picked up any of the new models yet, but I'm keen for some of those Vampire characters they look amazing to paint, plus I've definitely got to get at least one unit of Blood Knights just on principle! Before the release I had actually been on the lookout for the old dragon prince models to convert haha.
@@TheHobbyGrotto I am looking for alternatives for Prince Vhordrai and his mount. I feel they might redo his model at some point so I don't want to get his current one haha.
Thanks for watching, it could definitely work with Leadbelcher! You might also look into airbrushing to get a more consistent coat depending on the size and detail of the model, as well as a gloss varnish to give it even more shine. Some versions of Robocop also have a bit of a blue tint to the armour, so you could look at metallic glazing for this too 😊
Thanks for watching! I don't often paint gold much brighter than that, I think two suggestions which could brighten it up would be to go over a lighter undercoat, say something like grey or white, maybe a zenithal prime. Another thing you can do is paint the base layer of gold on instead of drybrushing it. This will make the gold colour brighter and more consistent. One final thing you can try is experimenting with different washes. With the Nuln Oil I use being a black wash, it does darken the colour overall. You could try a brown or more chestnut wash to add shading while darkening the overall mini less 🙂
@@TheHobbyGrotto thank you, these are all very helpful tips to experiment with. My goal is the metallic sheen of a gold bar rather than the glittery gold most common on fantasy minis.
That sounds awesome, you can experiment too with different ranges of metallics, you might find something with more gloss and shine than Citadel metallics. Something that can be good to give even more shine to metallics is to hit them with a satin or gloss varnish after you're done.
I think I am going to try this instead of painting on my TMM paints the same way I would a regular colours. I have been going insane trying to get TMM to the right consistency on my palette. It either runs and pools or goes on too thick. Thanks for the guide :)
I find Undead so fun to paint because they often have such bold colours as well as great ways to create contrast, particularly with things like skeleton bones and what not. They were also my first army back in the day, so a special place in the heart! 😊
Thank you so much for the video. Its very helpful and well explained. How long do i have to wait between the individual layers? Is there a recommended time? I guess it varies depending on the type of layer? (Shade, Base etc...) Kind regards, Karl
Thanks for watching! Most acrylic paints will dry very fast when applied in thin layers, a matter of minutes really so you don't need to wait too long. The major exception is washes, I will often let these dry for up to half an hour depending on how much I have applied, this can also be sped up with a hair dryer or similar 😁
Hi! WOW- great video! Any suggestions on what kind of red-wash to use for more antique looking gold? I'm wanting an ancient rosy-gold color for some ancient warriors i'm painting. Thanks!
Thankyou! The old classic for that antique look was Chestnut Ink, though I'm not sure what an equivalent would be in Citadel's new range of shades, probably Seraphim Sepia could be something to look at but it may be a bit brown still. These days I often recommend the contrast paints as they have a much larger range of colours for using as glazes and washes 😊
Thankyou! I think that could work, though I've never tried it, I usually like to use the glazing method to give color to metals 😄 it could be a really interesting look though, particularly for armour!
Hey man awesome video. One question - if I want to paint a beaten copper style metal how would i go about it? Find a more reddish-gold paint and than go with the silver drybrush or something else? Thanks!
Thankyou! Yeah man, for beaten copper you could use the same method, but swap out Gehenna's Gold for something like Fulgurite Copper, and then adjust how much silver you add for the look you're after. Another thing you could do is paint it silver or gold and add a glaze to give it that copper colour like in my Glazing Metallics vid. Hope this helps 😄
Hi there, thanks for watching! Most stages with general acrylic paint dry fast, I would be inclined to leave it for 5 minutes between layers, just to be on the safe side. The only thing I leave for a while are washes like Nuln Oil. I'll usually take a break after that stage, and often leave it for half an hour or more, but this might be a but excessive, there's just nothing worse than painting of a wash that isn't quite dry 🙂
Thanks for watching! Any Vallejo dark brown and dark silver would work fine for this colour scheme, you might try Dark Umber and then something like Exhaust Manifold or Acero Steel, but most silvers should work well when mixed with brown 😊
I've not tried this with mechanicus standard grey but it should be fine. You're going to lose a bit of the drubrush shading and darkness when not using a black undercoat, I would just do more of an overbrush on the base coats to make up for the slightly lighter colour, the wash should sort the shading anyway 😃
Thankyou! Whenever I do glazes like that, I pretty much always use contrast paints rather than making my own glazes because they're already at a good consistency. The only thing with contrast paints is the pigment intensity can vary from colour to colour so I do still thin them a little with medium or water on a case by case basis. Magos Purple is not a particularly intense paint so its probably only had a touch of thinning in the video 😁
I prefer regular Nuln Oil to the gloss variant, but thats just because I'm not a big fan of shiny models. If you do use the gloss however, you can dull it back down with a matte varnish at the end, I've heard some people say the gloss version flows a bit better as wash, but personally never had any isses with the regular 😄
It's probably not necessary, but I like to wash the brush between drybrush steps. If you're doing that though, it's important to make sure the brush is really dry, otherwise your drybrush will be streaky 😊
After i apply nuln oil and wait for it to dry, in the end, no matter how many time i wait, the oil looks wet and extremely glossy, not like in the video. Is there anything I can do about it?
Thanks for checking out the video! The new formulation of Nuln Oil does have a bit more gloss than the old one, but it shouldn't be crazy glossy like you described, I do have a video on the changes if you want a bit more info. In any case, a couple of things; firstly GW used to make a gloss version of Nuln Oil, it's possible you may have that. I've also heard of Nuln Oil being glossy if it's not shaken enough, I use mixing balls in all my paint including washes/contrast so this may be a factor too, try and see if there is anything at the bottom of the pot that can be stirred in. Finally, all paints have different gloss and sheen levels, so something you can do at the end is hit the whole model with a matte or satin varnish, this will match the whole finish of the model to one look and remove any glossy bits 😊
Thanks for the comment, Minotaurs are a really cool chapter and I love their Spartan style look! I find bronze very similar to gold to paint, you just need some subtle adjustments. In fact, when I originally painted my arkanauts with a similar process I was kind of going for that bronzey brassy look anyway 😁 What I would recommend, is using the same process in my tutorial, but swapping the Gehenna's Gold for something like Balthazar Gold to get a bit more of a brown tone. You can also swap the Nuln Oil for a brown wash like Agrax to get that effect. Bronze is a very varied colour though, so you could keep it more gold, or give it more silver highlights, the choice is yours 😊
Question from a newbie who has nearly completed a great unclean one except the weapons haha....when you say heavy dry brush can you elaborate a little more please? I used dry brushing for the skin but what is heavy dry brushing exactly? Any reply would be most awesome man so cheers in advance 😃👍
Thanks for getting on board with the channel! You can get different effects depending on how heavy you drybrush and the level of texture on the model. A heavy drybrush can also be called an overbrush, and essentially with that you're doing a normal drybrush but just not wiping quite as much off the brush to get a bit more paint coverage. This is handy as well when you're doing a few different levels of drybrushing, think of it as the drybrushing basecoat. When in doubt though its always good to go lighter with the drybrushing because you can always add more on, an effective heavy drybrush will just save you a bit of time 😁
@@TheHobbyGrotto top man, thank you very much man I do apreciate the explanation. Have not seen any detailed videos on 'heavy dry brushing' or overbrushing' on youtube, was looking for a decent how to paint metallics and see the expression on your superb little video and thought i would ask haha 👊😃
It's not the most commonly used terminology, I think I heard it in a Darren Latham video originally. I generally say heavy drybrush, but also I don't want to imply in the tutorial that you put on the paint heavy because that's not really accurate either. Terminology can be a bit hard haha, glad you enjoyed the video though! 😁
Great tutorial thank you. I have a question now, I use Vallejo game color polished and glorious gold and also bronze but I usually get a grainy kind of texture, I'm not sure if I'm doing anything wrong (I'm applying it with a round trip brush throughout the surface, like you would with normal paint) or if it's the paint itself. Have you ever have this issue if so, what have you done about it?
Thanks, and glad you enjoyed! I don't use Vallejo metallics much so I don't have a whole lot of experience with their consistency, but I have experienced similar issues with other metallic paints from time to time. I believe the metallic flakes in these styles of paints can vary in size and may potentially cause that grainy texture. I would definitely suggest using mixing balls if you don't already and giving it a vigorous shaking session to see if that helps. You also may just have a bad bottle, or have some bottles where the paint has dried slightly internally or gone through some other chemical process, metallic paints can be temperamental, although I must say I have heard good things about Vallejo metallics so I don't think this is the norm.
@@TheHobbyGrotto hey I wanted to get back at this with an update. I bought some 4.5mm pellets and put them on my metallic paints, it worked like a charm! Thank you!
I water down my paints on a case by case basis depending on how they look when they come out of the pot onto the pallette. But metallics can seperate so I tend to water them down as little as possible, just enough to get them workable if necessary. For drybrushing I don't water down at all, and just drybrush out of the pot generally 😁
Thankyou! I think when something is all metal, it's good to break it up by using a mix of silver and another metal like bronze for different parts of the model. Another option would be to paint it all one metallic, and then use glazes to give some variation of colour. If the model has armoured parts, you can get some variation there as well while still keeping the whole thing metallic 😃 in saying all that though, some things can look good all one colour, with maybe just a bright contrasting colour for the eyes. I think that is a particularly good look for things like golems.
Your a true artist many of the top watched YT-ers are just click bait, merc stores your channel should be watched more than theirs! YT is sad these days click bait thumbs w cringe face = 100k+ views good artist no bait, no cringe like you and maybe 50k sad sad I won’t watch the Click Bait cringe kings!
Thanks for watching the video everyone, I hope it helps with your TMM! Don't forget to check out my rust painting tutorial for more metalwork ideas! 😃 ruclips.net/video/Mg3tFIN8R7o/видео.html
Hey bud, thanks for the great video. I hope you don't mind me asking, but what medium do you use for thinning your contrast paints? Cheers!
Thanks mate! I use Lahmian Medium from GW when thinning contrast paint, but there are many brands of medium available that will also do the job fine! 😀
I've found that you can acheive some amazing results by simply adding a drop of color to your metallics. A little brown and red makes it look old and rusted. Blue is good for a knight's armor, green for elven armor. Etc.
This is a fantastic way to add some colour to your metallics, or even give a subtle metallic sheen to standard colours! 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto how far can you go with this? I want to make a purple knight (due to the material of the metal he is using in the particular fantasy setting) so just adding a FEW drops will really purple-up the model rather than washing afterwards?
I would certainly test it out, I've not tried mixing purple with metallics before but I have done it with other colours so there is potential. If it doesn't work out you still have the purple glazing method which will definitely work, but it's always good to do some experiments because amazing results can come from it 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto Thanks so much!
Great tutorials and love that idea of using glazes to tint the metals, will definitely need to remember that one!
Awesome to hear, thanks for the comment!
Have you tried the Vallejo Game Air paints for that? Works great!
The third one is exactly what I was looking for! My Slaves to Darkness are going to look amazing in that metal!
Sick! Get that chaos happening! Always glad to help 😁
Great little pieces to show off these effects!
Working out what I was going to use was half the challenge haha!
really liked that last one
Thankyou! I do use that one a lot! 😀
This is a brilliant tutorial! Clear camera angles, well explained techniques, and a great result.
Thanks mate, glad to hear the video was helpful! 😀
Good video, I like you're Sepulchral Guard one too
Thankyou, glad you're enjoying the content! 😊
Looks like a really fast and impressive metal effect, might use this for my grey knights
Great to hear, hope it helps! 😊
great video, thanks for the new techniques!
Awesome, glad to help! 😄
Really enjoyed this! Though I use some of these techniques already, I picked up some great tips from this video. Will definitely be using them on my Bretonnian project!
Thanks for the comment! Bretonnia holds a special place in my heart, I've really got to finish my own army project!
Great inspiration for my stormcast palladins ❤
Good to hear, and thanks for watching the video 😊
Awesome, i get my first 3d printer next week and most paintstyles are way to colorful for me and i love metallics. This is the first video in 3 days that makes me feel like i found something i would like to settle for. Now to order some paints, print some busts and start painting :).
That's great to hear! These techniques are honestly really simple, I'm a big fan of using TMM on minis! 😊
Fantastic !! I have been painting for a while and i have tried this out today and my metal's look much better, ,much smoother using this method . Thank you for the video 👍
Glad to hear you enjoyed the video! 😄
Looks superb and so real, excellent work!
Thankyou for watching 😊
This is perfect metallic. Thanks.
Thanks! Glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Great vid! Keep up the good work
Much appreciated 😊
Great quality video. You got a sub, sir.
That's awesome, thankyou for the support 😁
Great video
Thankyou! 😊
Excellent style of tutorial. I hope you roll out more clips like this to tackle other topics (leather/fabric/fur, hair/beard, skin, wooden handle/shield, skull/horn...) Keep up the good work.
Thankyou for the support! I definitely plan to do more tutorials on specifics like this 😁
Very nice! I'll definitely be using these when I get stuck in with Cities of Sigmar. That gold will look great on my officers!
Awesome! Always good to hear reports from fellow CoS generals! 😄
This video was EXACTLY what I was looking for! And with it, I've found your channel- which I love! Subscribed
That's awesome to hear! Thankyou so much for the support! 😀
Fantastic tutorial. Really appreciate it, thanks.
Thankyou! 🤘😁
Thanks mate. Best metallics video I've seen !
Thankyou so much! 😊
Would love a video like this for leather and fur!
Definitely, I'll add those to the list because I'm planning on doing more of the shorter painting specifics videos like this one 😁
Great tutorial! I typically use models from different war games for DnD so I'm not super familiar with individual armies, so oddly specific question: What models are those armor pieces from?
Thankyou, glad you liked it! I actually have had a few questions on these pieces, they are spare breastplates/torsos from the Citadel Putrid Blightkings kit. Some of them are not pure breastplates so I cut them down a bit for the video 😄
Great video thanks for the tips.
You're welcome, thanks for watching! 😊
Well done!
Thankyou 😁
awesome vid! got plenty of Stormcast to paint up so found this very useful
Cheers mate! I've got a backlog of Stormcast too for a secret project so I can relate! 🤣
@@TheHobbyGrotto what would you recommend for black armour? Table top ready with dry brushing. Also any decent dry brushes you’d recommend
Black is tricky. Generally I paint it a real dark grey and then wash it with black. For armour, I think painting it black then drybrushing the edges with a dark silver should read quite well, though I don't often paint black armour so definitely test it out first 😃
For drybrushes, alot of people recommend cheap makeup brushes. I use inexpensive art store brushes, in a size similar to the old GW Tank Brush, which was like the ultimate drybrush/terrain brush. Specifically I use Mont Marte Gallery Series, size 8 and up. In this video I was primarily using a size 12. Hope that helped!
@@TheHobbyGrotto awesome info thank you! I’ll be looking into getting a decent dry brush as it’s not a technique I do often but want to use on my SC. It’ll be black armour so I’ll be sure to use your advice - testing it first 😄
Definitely! Good luck with the Stormcast! 😊
I love this video, I just got into the hobby and started with death guard.
I wanted to do them in a Tim burton style and the 3rd example you showed is really nice to get the metal examples I've seen in nightmare before Christmas, so I'm definitely using that recipe for my armour 😅
Thanks for this❤
Thankyou, glad it has helped inspire you! 😀 I have another video on the channel you may also find interesting, painting a Blight King. It was a colour scheme inspired by classic Deathguard, so lots of gross Nurgle things in there. I've also got another Nurgle related video coming soon so stay tuned!
@@TheHobbyGrottoyess we need more nurgleeeee!😂❤
Painting Nurgle is one of my favourite things! 😁
May have a take on the armour for my stormcast! I love the third one, but may switch bulb oil with streaking grind! We will see!
Definitely! Sometimes I mix some black with Nuln Oil to make it a bit darker so stuff like streaking grime would also be sweet!
really helpfull, thnks!
Thankyou 😁🤘
Such a user friendly tutorial. subbed
Thankyou so much! Glad to have you on the journey! 😊
This gave me the idea to use Rustoleum paint and primer metallic spray paint. It comes in tons of different colors. Then I can just hit it with a black wash and be done. My model is quite large so brushing would take a very long time.
Definitely you can supplement a spray in there to save time. You can even do a combo and spray it first then drybrush on some highlights! 😃
너무 멋져요! 최고의 영상! 😀
정말 고맙습니다! 😊
Thanks a lot, it really helped me!
Glad to hear my friend!
I now know what to do with my Iron Warriors
Awesome, glad to hear the video inspired your painting! 😀
Thank you and your consummate skill mate!@@TheHobbyGrotto
Too kind! 😊
Great video and personally I loved the last one the most 🔥
Cheers! I use that old dirty armour alot, particularly on Undead stuff, it's maybe my favourite too! 😄
@@TheHobbyGrotto I don’t paint Miniatures, but sculpt and paint horror figures. Your my new go to channel for tips. This amour is very Court of the dead 👍🏻
That's very cool, I'm always meaning to do more sculpting, it's such an art form! Anything horror themed is fun to paint, I've got a bit of a preference for it, so hopefully you find some interesting stuff on the channel 😊
Great video mate 👌🏻
Thankyou for watching! 😊
Fast ,simple ,efficient
Awesome, thankyou!
For the third one, I use Rough Iron by Army Painter as the base.
I'll check Rough Iron out, I'm always interested in trying new paints! 😊
Fantastic. New sub!
Thankyou and welcome aboard! 😁
Great video! I did some similar things with the new death rattle skeletons and will definitely use some of these ideas on some vampire armor.
Thankyou! And respect to a fellow Soulblight player! I haven't painted any of the new Blood Knights yet but I'm probably going to use the old worn armour style from my tutorial 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto I have 5 blood knights primed and ready to go and color scheme mostly worked out. Wanting to incorporate a grim dark aesthetic because I hate squeaky clean paint jobs especially for undead haha.
Niiiiice! I agree, I paint my undead in a similar way. I'm running a horde army with skellies and zombies, so I haven't picked up any of the new models yet, but I'm keen for some of those Vampire characters they look amazing to paint, plus I've definitely got to get at least one unit of Blood Knights just on principle! Before the release I had actually been on the lookout for the old dragon prince models to convert haha.
@@TheHobbyGrotto I am looking for alternatives for Prince Vhordrai and his mount. I feel they might redo his model at some point so I don't want to get his current one haha.
Thank God i found this tutorial! im planing to paint a robocop kit with leadbelcher, is it a suitable color for the kit? what do u think?
Thanks for watching, it could definitely work with Leadbelcher! You might also look into airbrushing to get a more consistent coat depending on the size and detail of the model, as well as a gloss varnish to give it even more shine. Some versions of Robocop also have a bit of a blue tint to the armour, so you could look at metallic glazing for this too 😊
Just found your channel. Instand sub. I really like the short to-the-point style.
Thankyou for the feedback and support 😀 I'm definitely trying to keep things as efficient as possible with the videos!
Nice. This is a helpful video. Came from r/minipainting
Cheers mate, thanks for stopping by 😊
Perfect, but any extra suggestions for a bright, just off the assembly line, gold? It's for a gold dragon god.
Thanks for watching! I don't often paint gold much brighter than that, I think two suggestions which could brighten it up would be to go over a lighter undercoat, say something like grey or white, maybe a zenithal prime. Another thing you can do is paint the base layer of gold on instead of drybrushing it. This will make the gold colour brighter and more consistent. One final thing you can try is experimenting with different washes. With the Nuln Oil I use being a black wash, it does darken the colour overall. You could try a brown or more chestnut wash to add shading while darkening the overall mini less 🙂
@@TheHobbyGrotto thank you, these are all very helpful tips to experiment with. My goal is the metallic sheen of a gold bar rather than the glittery gold most common on fantasy minis.
That sounds awesome, you can experiment too with different ranges of metallics, you might find something with more gloss and shine than Citadel metallics. Something that can be good to give even more shine to metallics is to hit them with a satin or gloss varnish after you're done.
I think I am going to try this instead of painting on my TMM paints the same way I would a regular colours. I have been going insane trying to get TMM to the right consistency on my palette. It either runs and pools or goes on too thick. Thanks for the guide :)
No worries, glad to help! There are so many different ways to paint a mini, you just have to find what works for you! 😊
Needed some ideas for how to do my blood knights armor. These are great!
Thankyou! I've got to paint some blood knights of my own, that reminds me! (Big Undead fan here lol)
@@TheHobbyGrotto I just started on my soul blight army so I'm going to have to come up with some good looks for undead
I find Undead so fun to paint because they often have such bold colours as well as great ways to create contrast, particularly with things like skeleton bones and what not. They were also my first army back in the day, so a special place in the heart! 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto I totally feel the same way about orkz. I dont think you ever stop loving your first army choice.
They stay deep inside the special place forever! 😆
Thank you so much for the video. Its very helpful and well explained. How long do i have to wait between the individual layers? Is there a recommended time? I guess it varies depending on the type of layer? (Shade, Base etc...)
Kind regards,
Karl
Thanks for watching! Most acrylic paints will dry very fast when applied in thin layers, a matter of minutes really so you don't need to wait too long. The major exception is washes, I will often let these dry for up to half an hour depending on how much I have applied, this can also be sped up with a hair dryer or similar 😁
Hi! WOW- great video! Any suggestions on what kind of red-wash to use for more antique looking gold? I'm wanting an ancient rosy-gold color for some ancient warriors i'm painting. Thanks!
Thankyou! The old classic for that antique look was Chestnut Ink, though I'm not sure what an equivalent would be in Citadel's new range of shades, probably Seraphim Sepia could be something to look at but it may be a bit brown still. These days I often recommend the contrast paints as they have a much larger range of colours for using as glazes and washes 😊
That silver middle one is close to a rose gold! A rose gold tutorial will blow up I
Would make it if I could but since it’s your technique you should
I've been thinking of doing some more stuff with glazing metallics, there's just so many options! 😄
Dropped a like and subscribe. Great video format bud, easy to digest, follow along and nice editing.
I guess you Aussies can do some things okay 😏
Haha cheers mate, thanks for watching! 😁
WHERE WAS THIS VIDEO A WEEK AGO. NOW I WANT TO RESTART MY STD ARMY
Hahaha noooooo! 😆
Nice metallic look. Could you do this with other base colours like a green or Red.
Thankyou! I think that could work, though I've never tried it, I usually like to use the glazing method to give color to metals 😄 it could be a really interesting look though, particularly for armour!
@@TheHobbyGrotto Well I'm trying it for when I make my own Mortal Kombat 11 Masks. Specifically Scorpion.
Man, that sounds awesome, love Scorpion! 🤘
@@TheHobbyGrotto Hell yeah. Best MK character in my opinion.
Hey man awesome video. One question - if I want to paint a beaten copper style metal how would i go about it? Find a more reddish-gold paint and than go with the silver drybrush or something else? Thanks!
Thankyou! Yeah man, for beaten copper you could use the same method, but swap out Gehenna's Gold for something like Fulgurite Copper, and then adjust how much silver you add for the look you're after.
Another thing you could do is paint it silver or gold and add a glaze to give it that copper colour like in my Glazing Metallics vid. Hope this helps 😄
@@TheHobbyGrotto Yeah man thanks a lot :D . Gonna give the glazing metallics vid a look. Thanks again
Awesome! Thanks again for the support, and good luck with the copper 😄
Complete newb here. How long are you allowing for each step/phase to dry before going to the next?
Hi there, thanks for watching! Most stages with general acrylic paint dry fast, I would be inclined to leave it for 5 minutes between layers, just to be on the safe side. The only thing I leave for a while are washes like Nuln Oil. I'll usually take a break after that stage, and often leave it for half an hour or more, but this might be a but excessive, there's just nothing worse than painting of a wash that isn't quite dry 🙂
Hi, do you know the equivalent valejo metal color paints for the last example?
Thanks for watching! Any Vallejo dark brown and dark silver would work fine for this colour scheme, you might try Dark Umber and then something like Exhaust Manifold or Acero Steel, but most silvers should work well when mixed with brown 😊
Beautiful artwork 👍 and I am your New subscriber 🔔
Thankyou so much! I had a look at your channel, your drawings are phenomenal! 🔥
would the third still work the same over a prime of machanicus standard grey?
I've not tried this with mechanicus standard grey but it should be fine. You're going to lose a bit of the drubrush shading and darkness when not using a black undercoat, I would just do more of an overbrush on the base coats to make up for the slightly lighter colour, the wash should sort the shading anyway 😃
Great vid. I know it's old but can you tell me roughly what ratio you used for the purple?
Thankyou! Whenever I do glazes like that, I pretty much always use contrast paints rather than making my own glazes because they're already at a good consistency. The only thing with contrast paints is the pigment intensity can vary from colour to colour so I do still thin them a little with medium or water on a case by case basis. Magos Purple is not a particularly intense paint so its probably only had a touch of thinning in the video 😁
@@TheHobbyGrotto ok thanks. I'll have to pick some up and experiment
Is it better to use normal nuln oil or nuln oil gloss?
I prefer regular Nuln Oil to the gloss variant, but thats just because I'm not a big fan of shiny models. If you do use the gloss however, you can dull it back down with a matte varnish at the end, I've heard some people say the gloss version flows a bit better as wash, but personally never had any isses with the regular 😄
When you dry brushing do you wash the brush with water between applications ?
It's probably not necessary, but I like to wash the brush between drybrush steps. If you're doing that though, it's important to make sure the brush is really dry, otherwise your drybrush will be streaky 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto and just using plain cold water in the water pot?
Yep, just regular water 😁
After i apply nuln oil and wait for it to dry, in the end, no matter how many time i wait, the oil looks wet and extremely glossy, not like in the video. Is there anything I can do about it?
Thanks for checking out the video! The new formulation of Nuln Oil does have a bit more gloss than the old one, but it shouldn't be crazy glossy like you described, I do have a video on the changes if you want a bit more info. In any case, a couple of things; firstly GW used to make a gloss version of Nuln Oil, it's possible you may have that.
I've also heard of Nuln Oil being glossy if it's not shaken enough, I use mixing balls in all my paint including washes/contrast so this may be a factor too, try and see if there is anything at the bottom of the pot that can be stirred in.
Finally, all paints have different gloss and sheen levels, so something you can do at the end is hit the whole model with a matte or satin varnish, this will match the whole finish of the model to one look and remove any glossy bits 😊
@@TheHobbyGrotto Thanks, used mixing balls and matte varnish and now it looks perfect!
Glad to hear it worked out! 😀
And they're all done with a black primer/base?
They are, I find it works better for metallics 😁
non-oil is like magic
It's powerful stuff!
Can you do a tutorial on Bronze?
I want to paint up a squad of Minotaurs Space Marines and don't know where i should start.
Thanks for the comment, Minotaurs are a really cool chapter and I love their Spartan style look! I find bronze very similar to gold to paint, you just need some subtle adjustments. In fact, when I originally painted my arkanauts with a similar process I was kind of going for that bronzey brassy look anyway 😁 What I would recommend, is using the same process in my tutorial, but swapping the Gehenna's Gold for something like Balthazar Gold to get a bit more of a brown tone. You can also swap the Nuln Oil for a brown wash like Agrax to get that effect. Bronze is a very varied colour though, so you could keep it more gold, or give it more silver highlights, the choice is yours 😊
Question from a newbie who has nearly completed a great unclean one except the weapons haha....when you say heavy dry brush can you elaborate a little more please? I used dry brushing for the skin but what is heavy dry brushing exactly? Any reply would be most awesome man so cheers in advance 😃👍
Thanks for getting on board with the channel! You can get different effects depending on how heavy you drybrush and the level of texture on the model. A heavy drybrush can also be called an overbrush, and essentially with that you're doing a normal drybrush but just not wiping quite as much off the brush to get a bit more paint coverage. This is handy as well when you're doing a few different levels of drybrushing, think of it as the drybrushing basecoat. When in doubt though its always good to go lighter with the drybrushing because you can always add more on, an effective heavy drybrush will just save you a bit of time 😁
@@TheHobbyGrotto top man, thank you very much man I do apreciate the explanation. Have not seen any detailed videos on 'heavy dry brushing' or overbrushing' on youtube, was looking for a decent how to paint metallics and see the expression on your superb little video and thought i would ask haha 👊😃
It's not the most commonly used terminology, I think I heard it in a Darren Latham video originally. I generally say heavy drybrush, but also I don't want to imply in the tutorial that you put on the paint heavy because that's not really accurate either. Terminology can be a bit hard haha, glad you enjoyed the video though! 😁
@@TheHobbyGrotto understood man! I will practice this before I actually apply it to a model first haha
Awesome! If you have any more questions just let me know! 🤘
Would writing ink work ? - as a wash
I can't say I've ever tried writing ink for this, but everything is worth a test shot I reckon!
Great tutorial thank you. I have a question now, I use Vallejo game color polished and glorious gold and also bronze but I usually get a grainy kind of texture, I'm not sure if I'm doing anything wrong (I'm applying it with a round trip brush throughout the surface, like you would with normal paint) or if it's the paint itself. Have you ever have this issue if so, what have you done about it?
Thanks, and glad you enjoyed! I don't use Vallejo metallics much so I don't have a whole lot of experience with their consistency, but I have experienced similar issues with other metallic paints from time to time. I believe the metallic flakes in these styles of paints can vary in size and may potentially cause that grainy texture. I would definitely suggest using mixing balls if you don't already and giving it a vigorous shaking session to see if that helps. You also may just have a bad bottle, or have some bottles where the paint has dried slightly internally or gone through some other chemical process, metallic paints can be temperamental, although I must say I have heard good things about Vallejo metallics so I don't think this is the norm.
@@TheHobbyGrotto I'll try the mixing balls, I've heard good things about it.
It's always a good practice to keep your paints in working order 😁
@@TheHobbyGrotto hey I wanted to get back at this with an update. I bought some 4.5mm pellets and put them on my metallic paints, it worked like a charm! Thank you!
Awesome, great to hear! The mixing balls are very handy, eventually I'll upgrade to one of those vortex mixers too! 🤣
is he watering down all the colours?
I water down my paints on a case by case basis depending on how they look when they come out of the pot onto the pallette. But metallics can seperate so I tend to water them down as little as possible, just enough to get them workable if necessary. For drybrushing I don't water down at all, and just drybrush out of the pot generally 😁
Oh, definitely using that to make my Stormcasts look like they've seen some shit.
Dude, I've been meaning to paint some dark stormcast with the beaten old armour for so long, I reckon it would look sick! 😀
Great tutorial! Do you have any tips for an iron golem made entirely out of metal? How to make it look interesting and not too samey.
Thankyou! I think when something is all metal, it's good to break it up by using a mix of silver and another metal like bronze for different parts of the model. Another option would be to paint it all one metallic, and then use glazes to give some variation of colour. If the model has armoured parts, you can get some variation there as well while still keeping the whole thing metallic 😃 in saying all that though, some things can look good all one colour, with maybe just a bright contrasting colour for the eyes. I think that is a particularly good look for things like golems.
Man, I wish I found this video a lot earlier.
Thankyou, glad the video helped! 😊
Your a true artist many of the top watched YT-ers are just click bait, merc stores your channel should be watched more than theirs! YT is sad these days click bait thumbs w cringe face = 100k+ views good artist no bait, no cringe like you and maybe 50k sad sad I won’t watch the Click
Bait cringe kings!
Thankyou so much! There are definitely techniques to make things more clickable but I also think you have to do your own style too 😁