Thank you! I have been struggling to repair damage from removal of two layers of old wallpaper, and had watched several other RUclips sights. I bought the PRO999 suggested by another person, but just stumbled onto your sight today. In the meantime we had cut out "bubbles" surrounding several tears in the drywall, applied the PRO 999, then mudded over it, only to discover that the drywall near the patched place also bubbled. It hadn't occurred to me prior to watching your video that the original wallpaper was applied without sizing the drywall, so I am in a mess. Fortunately, ours is only an entry hall, so isn't as big a disaster as it might have been. Again, let me "second" your mention of sizing drywall prior to applying wallpaper!
We still have two bathrooms that we will need to remove the old wallpaper, so if I understood you correctly, we should plan to sand down the entire wall after removal, then seal with the PRO 999, skimcoat with mud, prime and paint. Will we need to sand all the way down to the gypsum before skimcoating?
Riley McMillan Hi Riley. No, please just sand off anything loose. If you breach the white layer of Sheetrock, and expose the brown paper, then sand that down almost till it’s gone. Then prime with 999 or Guards. Then compound. If you compound before you use the primer, you will activate the glue on the wall and it will start making your compound drag and activate the glue and you will have a mess. Cheers. Let me know.
Hi Spencer, a good video. Removed wallpaper of unprimed drywall that I would like to paint, removed about 95% of the wallpaper backing and there are some holes where drywall layers have come off. If I prime and skim the holes can I still paint over when there is still some bits of wallpaper backing which I've sanded down a bit?
Hello I have a question I want to ask how much I should charge for remove a commercial wallpaper and make it ready for reinstalling a new one ? Thank you
@@spencercolgan I’m still new in this that’s why I’m asking I’m trying to get this job it’s a small hotel I need to remove the old wallpaper and prepare for the new one . There is any price per sf. Help me if you can thx
Yes, take a razor and make vertical lines in your wallpaper and then make horizontal lines across your vertical lines and then wet the wallpaper down and use a scraper and you will pull it all off
Thank you for video. I removed old, thick wallpaper from kitchen but some glue left. I’m afraid to wet the wall and have it bubble. Should I sand it then use 999? I’ve watched a few videos and some say to seal before anything, like with a shellack. I also think I will need to skim coat before prime and paint. Please help with suggestions.
I have an issue where we took down a vinyl paper and it came off fine with the glue off too but there is another paper underneath it that is even older with a layer of PVA like Kilz on top of it and looks like they didn't treat the wall for the first paper and it is hard to get off and stops the steamer from taken off the older paper not sure what to do next. Any advice? Some sections have a joint compound on top of the older wallpaper too. We have the first paper and glue off but not sure how to get the rest off. Thanks
Here is the answer to your question: please watch it and rest assured that it will work for you! This will not fail you. ruclips.net/video/NDzzOo6PkQU/видео.html
Hello Spencer, I removed vinyl wall paper by myself and it left a glue residue and some of the paper layer of the drywall was ripped up. One contractor recommended replacing all of the drywall. But I’ve been reading and watching your videos. Are you suggesting to just add a coat of oil based primer, gardz, or Pro 999 directly over the adhesive? Should I sand first? Thank you!
@@spencercolgan Hi Spencer, thanks for your reply! I was looking at the video and noticed this is featuring paper wallpaper. So my wallpaper was vinyl. The damage is minimal and there isn't any paper left over. But there is some adhesive and the drywall has a rough texture now. Does that video still apply? Thanks again!
Thank you for the information. I already knew some techniques but I’m gonna try that product you talked about. I’m an old-school historic Plasterer, I use hydraulic lime engage in plaster. My name is Johnny Potenza.
I think the wallpaper was factory glued it is a mobile home that belongs to my Dad he is 82 and his buddy knocked a few holes in it...and while I am at it he has the biggest globbiest popcorn O have ever seen. I am redoing all of it and am going to skim coat it but I feel like I need to take a wire brush to the ceiling it is a good 1/3 inch thick in places. Uhg... help please.
I don’t know what part of the video I said that and that would have helped my answer but I am almost 100% sure I know what you’re referring to… If you remove wallpaper, it rips the wall underneath it away, and comes up with the wallpaper about 1/16 of an inch of the wall comes with the wallpaper which requires you to fill that in… Is that if this does not answer your question, please go back to the video and tell me where I said that.
Shannon Mitchell 1. Sand off all loose material first. Especially the brown sheetrock paper... it’s tricky....look, listen and feel it to be sure that it’s no longer loose. 2. Prime over it with Zinsser Guards, let dry overnight... 3. Apply a skimcoat of lightweight joint compound mixed with a little water and apply with a hawk and trowel. See my videos on skimcoat, especially the recent one please. Subscribe to my channel please. Have a great day
That's the same thing that happened to the kitchen walls in my apartment after removing wall papers and now I am still struggling with removing more paper off the wall.
Hi Spencer, thank you for the video! Great advice, but what if my entire bathroom has exposed brown paper. All the wall paper glue pulled off the first layer of white paper. Do I use the GARDZ on all surfaces and then sand it all after drying? Cannot afford to hire anyone, and willing to put in the time. Just need to know if we don't have to replace the drywall. There are no gouges or holes, just a lot of peeling brown paper. Also, does it hurt the brown layers if my family is still using the bathroom to take hot showers?
First of all, you have nothing to worry about whatsoever. Secondly, get yourself a powerful flashlight for the task I am about to describe. Get yourself a five or 6 inch palm Sander. Get yourself a $20 sleeve of 80 grit sanding discs for the machine. Starting in one of the corners and proceeding methodically, send the entire surface… Do not skip anything. All you are looking to do is to remove any loose brown paper; you are not looking to remove any more brown paper if the brown paper is not loose. Do not spend all that money on Gardz. I want you to go on Amazon and get yourself to half gallon containers of a glue called weld bond. When you receive it, mix the glue and the water in the following ratio: one part glue, two parts water. You will save yourself approximately $75. You will use this instead of the product you mentioned, gardz. Roll it on my friend. Now with your bright flash light, holding your light against the wall surface look to see if you are 100% and that there is no longer any loose material. After that, get yourself one bucket of ready mix joint compound, a 10 inch wide taping knife, and buy yourself a hawk. I want you to put the joint compound on the wall applying it as thinly as possible holding the knife at a 45° angle against the wall; you will apply this the day after you put the glue/water solution. You will do anywhere between two and three coats of this joint compound remembering the Almighty rule… As thinly as possible, holding the knife at a 45° angle; if you are an amateur, this angle will eliminate any Excess of application of the joint compound. Use a fan in the bathroom; if you do not have a fan, please go and purchase a fan, you want the air circulating against your body and against the walls; this can be very frustrating if you are a type who tends to perspire. After this process, get yourself 120 Grit sending paper, preferably on a poll Sander and gently and lightly sand your work. After this process, with all of the lights off, take your flashlight, hold the flashlight up against the wall and check to see if you are Spencer Colgan - approved smooth! :-) Please take a moment to give me a five star review on the following links for a Google and Yelp, if you do not mind; my customers are not only the people I work for, who pay me money but, they are now USA-wide and even now in Europe as well! I help everyone I can because this is a gift that God has given me and I am going to Share it. The moisture from showers will moisten the walls, but you do not have to worry about this nominal situation as it is not only temporary but quickly dissipates after the door is open. If you would be so kind, you can express your gratitude about my desire to help you, the time I have spent with you, and my willingness to discuss the project with you over the phone, if need be, and my expertise on the videos you have seen. www.google.com/search?q=tampa%20bay%20wallpaper%20installer Yelp: yelp.to/qTKq/Hy4lSZIfq7
@@spencercolgan Wow, that was thorough and I truly appreciate it. I will show this to my daughter who is my "boss" in this project (its her bathroom). I have the flashlight and compound, but not the sleeve of sand paper or sanding machine. I have applied compound to fix many blemishes, holes and used many mesh repair kits (my son's pictures and heavy speakers) and painted 3 other large bedrooms, so not a complete amateur but definitely not a pro either at this. Thanks again!
"After that, get yourself one bucket of ready mix joint compound, a 10 inch wide taping knife, and buy yourself a hawk" What did you mean by "hawk"? was that a typo? already found the weld bond glue at HDepot for $38.
You have a great question. Most wallpaper is not paper; it is a composer of paper, vinyl et cetera and if you think about it, vinyl is not a stable substrate on which to put a skim coat; vinyl expands, vinyl contracts... with the heat in the cold and you will realise that you have put skim coat over something they will cause it to crack. However come is it is only paper, you will only have to contend with the seams over which to put your joint compound in order to hide them completely. Must remove the wallpaper strictly speaking? Your suspicion is correct: no, you do not. However, are you sure that it does not contain vinyl? That is the question and even if it be only paper, how many layers of paper wallpaper do you want on your walk? Eventually, you must remove it if you have more than one layer
Ok I understand! I have one room about 12 x 12 Feet, VINAL WALLPAPER AND IT LOOKS TO HAVE SEVRAL COTES OF OIL PAINT ON TOP OF THE VINAL WALLPAPER, HOT WATER AND A HEATE GUN DID NOT DO ANYTHING. LOOKING FOR any help ON HOW TO REMOVE THE VINAL PAPER WITH ALL THE PAINT ON TOP, without re rocking the room? Love your show, Spencer!
Dude my wallpaper was a bitch to get off no big pieces all small chunks. Took forever left the backing and glue another bitch and a half finally got everything sanded smooth now can i just paint a surface sealer mud small spots then paint?
Once I was able to pull that shit off, do you really think I would put it back up again???? OH HELL NO!!! I will stick with good ole imperfect smooth finish.
9 minutes of talking, no action on youtube. Dude, it's not a radio, it's a video platform, so 1 minutes talk about it and SHOW/PRESENT what you do. 1 video is more than enough.
Thank you! I have been struggling to repair damage from removal of two layers of old wallpaper, and had watched several other RUclips sights. I bought the PRO999 suggested by another person, but just stumbled onto your sight today. In the meantime we had cut out "bubbles" surrounding several tears in the drywall, applied the PRO 999, then mudded over it, only to discover that the drywall near the patched place also bubbled. It hadn't occurred to me prior to watching your video that the original wallpaper was applied without sizing the drywall, so I am in a mess. Fortunately, ours is only an entry hall, so isn't as big a disaster as it might have been. Again, let me "second" your mention of sizing drywall prior to applying wallpaper!
Good for you!! If you need any info, just post it here in question form.
We still have two bathrooms that we will need to remove the old wallpaper, so if I understood you correctly, we should plan to sand down the entire wall after removal, then seal with the PRO 999, skimcoat with mud, prime and paint. Will we need to sand all the way down to the gypsum before skimcoating?
Riley McMillan
Hi Riley. No, please just sand off anything loose. If you breach the white layer of Sheetrock, and expose the brown paper, then sand that down almost till it’s gone. Then prime with 999 or Guards. Then compound. If you compound before you use the primer, you will activate the glue on the wall and it will start making your compound drag and activate the glue and you will have a mess. Cheers. Let me know.
@spencercolgan maybe its a stupid question but is it possible to mud/skim the wall without taking off the wallpaper.
Great video. Thank you
I am thinking if you did this video today you would be reccomending Zinzer BIN Shellac instead of Pro 999 or Guardz..
6:06 I meant GARDZ
Hi I have strip wallpaper of the wall but it was pealing paint of to with it what couring that before I put new paper up
This was in my recommended for whatever reasons xD i know nothing about wallpapers but im glad i watched this video
johan smifthelry I love your comment! Please subscribe and click the notification bell.
Thank you Mr Tampa for your expertise. 👍💪
You didn't mention the grit of sandpaper on both of your videos to resolve this issue
60 for heavy removal. 120 to smooth. Sorry.
Thank you! I have a sander and the GARD sealer but I didn't want to use joint compound because of the time it'll add. And I have TONS of primer.
100% accuracy 💯 thank you
hi. im removing wallpaper and it has no paint or primer behind it.. what should i do? plaster and primer? thnx
Prime with oil kilz. Then Plaster.
Hi Spencer, a good video. Removed wallpaper of unprimed drywall that I would like to paint, removed about 95% of the wallpaper backing and there are some holes where drywall layers have come off. If I prime and skim the holes can I still paint over when there is still some bits of wallpaper backing which I've sanded down a bit?
No. Don’t do that. Skim it completely smooth. See this video:
Rohan: please do this:
ruclips.net/video/Dy6GrFQpViI/видео.html
By howdy I can relate.
Good advice, thank you!
But more importantly, your voice sounds a bit like Christopher Walken. Nice!
I got a fever.....
Hello I have a question I want to ask how much I should charge for remove a commercial wallpaper and make it ready for reinstalling a new one ? Thank you
Charge them as much as you are worth my friend. Are you reliable? Are you good? Charge them as much as you are worth
@@spencercolgan I’m still new in this that’s why I’m asking I’m trying to get this job it’s a small hotel I need to remove the old wallpaper and prepare for the new one . There is any price per sf. Help me if you can thx
Any suggestions on removing wallpaper, installed probably 30 years ago and subsequently painted over?
Yes, take a razor and make vertical lines in your wallpaper and then make horizontal lines across your vertical lines and then wet the wallpaper down and use a scraper and you will pull it all off
Thank you for video. I removed old, thick wallpaper from kitchen but some glue left. I’m afraid to wet the wall and have it bubble. Should I sand it then use 999? I’ve watched a few videos and some say to seal before anything, like with a shellack. I also think I will need to skim coat before prime and paint. Please help with suggestions.
Thank you for watching; here is the video made just for your situation Anne-Marie
ruclips.net/video/NDzzOo6PkQU/видео.html
Marie
Thank You very interesting good tip on the 999
I have an issue where we took down a vinyl paper and it came off fine with the glue off too but there is another paper underneath it that is even older with a layer of PVA like Kilz on top of it and looks like they didn't treat the wall for the first paper and it is hard to get off and stops the steamer from taken off the older paper not sure what to do next. Any advice? Some sections have a joint compound on top of the older wallpaper too. We have the first paper and glue off but not sure how to get the rest off. Thanks
Here is the answer to your question: please watch it and rest assured that it will work for you! This will not fail you.
ruclips.net/video/NDzzOo6PkQU/видео.html
Hello Spencer, I removed vinyl wall paper by myself and it left a glue residue and some of the paper layer of the drywall was ripped up. One contractor recommended replacing all of the drywall. But I’ve been reading and watching your videos. Are you suggesting to just add a coat of oil based primer, gardz, or Pro 999 directly over the adhesive? Should I sand first? Thank you!
That contractor is ridiculous. Do this :
ruclips.net/video/GddiRZbPu6s/видео.html
@@spencercolgan Hi Spencer, thanks for your reply! I was looking at the video and noticed this is featuring paper wallpaper. So my wallpaper was vinyl. The damage is minimal and there isn't any paper left over. But there is some adhesive and the drywall has a rough texture now. Does that video still apply? Thanks again!
Do this:
ruclips.net/video/GddiRZbPu6s/видео.html
What grit of sandpaper?
100 grit
@@spencercolgan thank you!
Wallpaper removal - Drywall repair - Interior painting - RUclips they did an amazing job at my house, and they did the same your way
Thank you for the information. I already knew some techniques but I’m gonna try that product you talked about. I’m an old-school historic Plasterer, I use hydraulic lime engage in plaster. My name is Johnny Potenza.
I think the wallpaper was factory glued it is a mobile home that belongs to my Dad he is 82 and his buddy knocked a few holes in it...and while I am at it he has the biggest globbiest popcorn O have ever seen. I am redoing all of it and am going to skim coat it but I feel like I need to take a wire brush to the ceiling it is a good 1/3 inch thick in places. Uhg... help please.
Send me some pictures… Send them to my website email address at spencercolgan@tampabaywallpaperinstaller.com
What do you do when the vinyl wall covering removes all of the out covering of the sheetrock about a sixteenth of an inch.
I don’t know what part of the video I said that and that would have helped my answer but I am almost 100% sure I know what you’re referring to… If you remove wallpaper, it rips the wall underneath it away, and comes up with the wallpaper about 1/16 of an inch of the wall comes with the wallpaper which requires you to fill that in… Is that if this does not answer your question, please go back to the video and tell me where I said that.
Shannon Mitchell 1. Sand off all loose material first. Especially the brown sheetrock paper... it’s tricky....look, listen and feel it to be sure that it’s no longer loose. 2. Prime over it with Zinsser Guards, let dry overnight... 3. Apply a skimcoat of lightweight joint compound mixed with a little water and apply with a hawk and trowel. See my videos on skimcoat, especially the recent one please. Subscribe to my channel please. Have a great day
That's the same thing that happened to the kitchen walls in my apartment after removing wall papers and now I am still struggling with removing more paper off the wall.
Hi Spencer, thank you for the video! Great advice, but what if my entire bathroom has exposed brown paper. All the wall paper glue pulled off the first layer of white paper. Do I use the GARDZ on all surfaces and then sand it all after drying? Cannot afford to hire anyone, and willing to put in the time. Just need to know if we don't have to replace the drywall. There are no gouges or holes, just a lot of peeling brown paper. Also, does it hurt the brown layers if my family is still using the bathroom to take hot showers?
First of all, you have nothing to worry about whatsoever.
Secondly, get yourself a powerful flashlight for the task I am about to describe.
Get yourself a five or 6 inch palm Sander. Get yourself a $20 sleeve of 80 grit sanding discs for the machine. Starting in one of the corners and proceeding methodically, send the entire surface… Do not skip anything. All you are looking to do is to remove any loose brown paper; you are not looking to remove any more brown paper if the brown paper is not loose.
Do not spend all that money on Gardz. I want you to go on Amazon and get yourself to half gallon containers of a glue called weld bond. When you receive it, mix the glue and the water in the following ratio: one part glue, two parts water. You will save yourself approximately $75.
You will use this instead of the product you mentioned, gardz.
Roll it on my friend. Now with your bright flash light, holding your light against the wall surface look to see if you are 100% and that there is no longer any loose material.
After that, get yourself one bucket of ready mix joint compound, a 10 inch wide taping knife, and buy yourself a hawk. I want you to put the joint compound on the wall applying it as thinly as possible holding the knife at a 45° angle against the wall; you will apply this the day after you put the glue/water solution. You will do anywhere between two and three coats of this joint compound remembering the Almighty rule… As thinly as possible, holding the knife at a 45° angle; if you are an amateur, this angle will eliminate any Excess of application of the joint compound.
Use a fan in the bathroom; if you do not have a fan, please go and purchase a fan, you want the air circulating against your body and against the walls; this can be very frustrating if you are a type who tends to perspire.
After this process, get yourself 120 Grit sending paper, preferably on a poll Sander and gently and lightly sand your work.
After this process, with all of the lights off, take your flashlight, hold the flashlight up against the wall and check to see if you are Spencer Colgan - approved smooth! :-)
Please take a moment to give me a five star review on the following links for a Google and Yelp, if you do not mind; my customers are not only the people I work for, who pay me money but, they are now USA-wide and even now in Europe as well! I help everyone I can because this is a gift that God has given me and I am going to Share it.
The moisture from showers will moisten the walls, but you do not have to worry about this nominal situation as it is not only temporary but quickly dissipates after the door is open.
If you would be so kind, you can express your gratitude about my desire to help you, the time I have spent with you, and my willingness to discuss the project with you over the phone, if need be, and my expertise on the videos you have seen.
www.google.com/search?q=tampa%20bay%20wallpaper%20installer
Yelp:
yelp.to/qTKq/Hy4lSZIfq7
@@spencercolgan Wow, that was thorough and I truly appreciate it. I will show this to my daughter who is my "boss" in this project (its her bathroom). I have the flashlight and compound, but not the sleeve of sand paper or sanding machine. I have applied compound to fix many blemishes, holes and used many mesh repair kits (my son's pictures and heavy speakers) and painted 3 other large bedrooms, so not a complete amateur but definitely not a pro either at this. Thanks again!
"After that, get yourself one bucket of ready mix joint compound, a 10 inch wide taping knife, and buy yourself a hawk" What did you mean by "hawk"? was that a typo? already found the weld bond glue at HDepot for $38.
bear101897 get it, you don’t wanna spend 45- $50 for Gardz. And that is the name of that tool; it is a hawk
@@spencercolgan okay, thanks. Already feel more confident about this now. I will let you know if I have any questions along the way.
Why remove wallpaper if skim coting is needed, on wallpaper that is not peeling?
You have a great question. Most wallpaper is not paper; it is a composer of paper, vinyl et cetera and if you think about it, vinyl is not a stable substrate on which to put a skim coat; vinyl expands, vinyl contracts... with the heat in the cold and you will realise that you have put skim coat over something they will cause it to crack.
However come is it is only paper, you will only have to contend with the seams over which to put your joint compound in order to hide them completely.
Must remove the wallpaper strictly speaking? Your suspicion is correct: no, you do not. However, are you sure that it does not contain vinyl? That is the question and even if it be only paper, how many layers of paper wallpaper do you want on your walk? Eventually, you must remove it if you have more than one layer
Ok I understand!
I have one room about 12 x 12 Feet, VINAL WALLPAPER AND IT LOOKS TO HAVE SEVRAL COTES OF OIL PAINT ON TOP OF THE VINAL WALLPAPER, HOT WATER AND A HEATE GUN DID NOT DO ANYTHING.
LOOKING FOR any help ON HOW TO REMOVE THE VINAL PAPER WITH ALL THE PAINT ON TOP, without re rocking the room?
Love your show, Spencer!
My situation may be one that has to leave the vinyl on yuck would rather not.
My daughter is having this problem. She got irritated and frustrated and stopped. I'm going over there tomorrow to use some tricks, I find here.
Dude my wallpaper was a bitch to get off no big pieces all small chunks. Took forever left the backing and glue another bitch and a half finally got everything sanded smooth now can i just paint a surface sealer mud small spots then paint?
Once I was able to pull that shit off, do you really think I would put it back up again???? OH HELL NO!!! I will stick with good ole imperfect smooth finish.
It stands up to contact by all things... except cats!!
9 minutes of talking, no action on youtube. Dude, it's not a radio, it's a video platform, so 1 minutes talk about it and SHOW/PRESENT what you do. 1 video is more than enough.
Wall paper should be illegal
No sizing anywhere. Not anywhere.
Please watch this. ruclips.net/video/Im2CfsMzxSM/видео.html