9 Things You May Not Know About Resin 3D Printers
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Resin 3D Printers are amazing!
After spending the last year using SLA and DLP based printers almost exclusively, I wanted to share some insights into this style of 3D Printer.
This video is aimed to be valuable to anyone thinking about getting started in the Resin 3D Printing world.
#Maker #3DPrinting #Anycubic
The over-exposure tip is pure gold. I spent the first week or two of 3d printing devastated because NOTHING was working. I tried releveling and changed out the resin so many times. Eventually, I learned that the best way to get successful prints was to over-expose and over support. It's so much better and so much more encouraging to have a successful print that is oversupported and overexposed instead of yet another failed print.
Mark: "10 cents worth of gloves."
2020: "LOL"
terpdx hahahahaha that is hilarious!
Same with IPA.
I think the best way to start resin printing is to work through it scientifically. Only adjust 1 setting at a time. I wasted so many failed prints swapping every setting and getting nowhere because it didn't make clear what the problem was.
Isolate the steps. For instance use a model with the same supports, bottom exposure, lift speed etc etc and just change exposure time. Find exactly what your exposure is. Then slowly decrease your bottom exposure time to find that spot where things aren't irrevocable from the build plate. Then adjust lift speed to find what gives you the least z lines. Only ever change 1 setting so you know exactly what you are testing and what effect it is having on your prints.
another handy tip: get a UV flashlight or UV curing lamp in the 405nm spectrum to cure resin spills on surfaces, just wiping up with a towel will still leave residue behind that you may touch and expose your skin to. I use a cutting mat to catch drips, then wipe it all down with rubbing alcohol as well, But then hit the mat with a douse of UV from the flashlight and there is still a lot more there that starts to flake off as it cures at this point I just scrape off the excess easily with a Popsicle stick once cured.
Solid call. Just don't use the light to cure resin on your skin, the reaction is very exothermic and can get pretty hot!
Don't put your vat in IPA - unless you want your film to be cloudy at record speed. For slicer, use chitu box or Lychee. For resin, don't stick with the one your brand makes. There are many good and cheap resins to choose from. For gloves, never use latex gloves as the chemicals will go right though them. 5 to 10 minuts in a ultra sonic cleaner. 3 min is not enough. Water does nothing to your cleaning process. It doesn't hurt the model so if it makes you feel better go on but it serves no purpose if you clean your IPA regularly. For cleaning your IPA, put it in a transparent plastic container with a lid on. Leave it in the sun for a few hrs and all the resin will cure into a nasty slur that you can filter with a funnel. Transfer back to your cleaning station and top up with more IPA as needed. For getting failed prints of the film in the vat, gently push the film from behind and it will come off easy. No need for scraping. for UV curing, make sure your lamp is 405. don't use random uv lights. Do not over cure. Read other peoples settings for the resin you use. Most printers will have a base settings that will work fine with most resins. over curing gives "elephant foot" on your whole model and not just bottom layers. Not good. Failed print is what you learn from and over curing just give you bad habits. Use a raft and Lychee slicer. Lynchee can identify islands on your print and support those automatic. Your prints will not fail as easy and no need to over cure.
My Orange 10 was very cheap and the prints have all been fantastic once I figured out the curing time for each resin. The resin it can with was very good but very expensive. The best resin I've tried is Siraya Tech Grey. It cures very fast in the printer and in post, has almost no smell, has a little flex to it, AND it's quite cheap. $40 for 2 500ml bottles.
I've heard GREAT things about Siraya resin!
hahaha "10 cents for gloves" oh how times change.
Hawkeye0918 man that comment dated terribly! 😂
I can't even find gloves I'm useing condoms taped to my fingers
Yes a fellow ausi rare to see us on RUclips
just bought me a creality l000h2 and the anycube wash and cure 2.0 with some copymaster standard clear resin. i started with the calibration card to dial in the exposure time. and i must say i had 0 fails till now. i eaven printed a hotend fanduckt mount for my creality cr-10, and im blown away. it looks like a injektion molded clear part. i am very impressed of what you can do with a resin printer. happy printing@ all
Great video! I’ve watched other people’s resin printing videos and they didn’t talk about toxicity or fumes and made it all sound so simple, so this was really helpful
Just with 5 videos, you're presenting like a Pro.
Great tips. We are still waiting for resin 3D printing to be more user-friendly and less messy.
I'd love that too. I still hate the mess!
Agreed. Wonderfully produced video. This is certainly in the top 3 of must watch resin printing videos for beginners. Thank you for your time, really appreciate it.
Thank you for a very informative and forthright video. I am concerned with the way SLA use has exploded in the past year, and when use becomes commonplace, you know there will be sloppy use and potentially some negative public reaction to the product.
100% and yep, that's already happened!
Lab coat, mask, gloves, and sometimes glasses depending on the circumstances. I hate using my gloves up, so sometimes i re-use if i didn't have to do anything major. Try and put your printer on a boot matte or a lid to a tote, anything that can contain spills and cleaned easily. My ISO/Distilled water baths are kept in closed containers within another tote to contain spills, which proved to be a good idea because originally my ISO container was perfectly sealed and ruptured emptying its resin contents in to the tote LOL. Also get a jug or something for chemical waste that you can leave outside to evaporate and cure.
Alexander G all of that is excellent advice!
Quick note: its been found that latex gloves dont provide enough protection compared to the nitrile ones. Nitrile all the way
Hey Mark! Great video. Still applicable now in 2021. I just got a Phrozen Mighty 4K recently and started out using the Lychee slicer (preferred GUI over Chitubox). First couple of small test prints fine, but next ones went downhill. lots to learn still
In regards to failed prints and them stuck to the vat, I highly recommend to apply very little pressure underneath the vat. It should pop up the failed prints. Using a scrapper will most likely scratch the vat plate.
That is a pretty good idea, thanks!
Always happy to see others getting in to resin printing :) Some very good tips for sure! Keep up the great work!
Thanks buddy! It's been an awesome year and I am always astonished at the quality of the prints. Right now there is a Star Destroyer printing on my Moai... ;)
@@MarkRhodesMaker Oh my!! 😍 Very much looking forward to seeing that!!
Great Video. Thanks Mark! I just got an Elegoo Mars and going to town on RUclips learning as I go. Yours is much appreciated.
my first 3d printer an anycubic photon zero id coming in the mail and this video was really helpful
Hi Mark, I just started out with resin printing on my Anycubic M3 Plus. I saw a user on reddit who mentioned using a hand held UV torch to detect resin splashes and cure little splashes of resin. So I got one and I've been using it the same way, also curing my paper towels I use to wipe up resin before throwing them out or reusing parts of them, or cure the tips on my nitrile gloves if they get some resin on them. This seems to work wonders in containing the resin and being able to see if there is any residue on say a bottle etc. Would love to hear your thoughts on this UV-torch technique. Keep up the great videos!
Lots of quick tip information in this video. Top notch! Just purchased a new anycubic photon today. Should be here in a week or so. First DLP printer I'll own.
Awesome Greg! The Photon Facebook group is a heap of help, suggest you check them out.
@@MarkRhodesMaker I'll definitely check them out! Thanks for the heads up. If the rest of your videos are similar I'm sure I'll be back for more in depth information. You seem to work with alot of sla and dlp printers
Ah man don't use latex with resin it migrates through and has some strange reaction with it.. have to use nitrile gloves
He probably didn't know that
I loved it, thank kyou it helped me choose what kind of printer I want.
Digging the Anycubic Photon and setting my own supports in Chitubox. Or using auto orient and supports in prusa slicer if I'm feeling lazy.
Scott Rinehart I’m glad to hear it’s working well for you!
I don't know how so many people can talk about safety then recommend putting isopropynol in a sonic cleaner.
True story! However solvents and volatiles have been used in those machines by jewellers for years. I keep mine covered when in use and haven't had an issue yet, however it is quite a small unit.
@@MarkRhodesMaker The jewelers I know told me they would never even dream of using a flammable in their cleaners. Glad you have had no issues yet, but don't expect anything back on your insurance when your workshop/house burns down. Please stay safe and do not use IPA in your US cleaners!
@@MarkRhodesMaker I don't know if you've tried it yet but I've seen people fill their ultrasonic cleaners with water and then put their prints into a baggy filled with IPA and then into the water and get good results. I'm not sure if it's quite as good cause I have no cleaner to test it with but maybe you could give it a shot.
Brandon R great idea, will give it a shot!
I've heard some people use Mean Green in their Ultrasonic Cleaner. Thoughts?
great video my guy! cheers
You sold it well. Excellently rounded opinionated piece. Also being an Australian is a plus.🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎 Recognises a....new subscriber 🤓🤓🤓
Steve Sloan thanks Steve! Only another Australian would see being Australian as a plus... 😂
Thank you mark
You are very welcome!
Lychee all the way. Found it slices well and I don't need multiple softwares for hollow, support, and island searching.
Big Clive has tested many UV LED lights recently and found that they don't really have any UV B or UV C, so you may want to change your curing lights. He has a couple videos from the last few weeks so they should be easy to find. Might help in the curing stage so you don't have to put them outside.
Mini GP Racing interesting! I bought these specifically for their wavelength! I’ll have a look for those vids
@@MarkRhodesMaker new video with a neat test ruclips.net/video/7lzq6LuVWH0/видео.html
Just came across your channel and I subscribed. Great information
Thanks Roger, much appreciated!
Best advice I can give is run an exposure plate first and make sure build plate is flat.
Thank you. Definitely learned a few things.
Where can I find that Ghost Spider/Spider Gwen print please? My daughter would love it.
I think I found it in Thingiverse
Hi Mark, nice vid and great tips. Do resin printers take PLA or is that only made in filaments?
Biff Malibu hey Bill, Resin printers generally take. UV sensitive polyester resin. They can’t take PLA as they take a liquid resin rather than a solid plastic like PLA or ABS.
It's a great video!
Thank you so much for the tips. I am super new at all this and cant wait to learn more. Also, its fantastic to see a fellow Christian on here. Love your work bud 💙✝️
Two cameras! Very pro. Well done.
I gather resin printing is not likely to produce metal parts, while FDM is getting there. It was an eye-opener to see how much post-print processing is involved. SUPPORTS?? I thought this was practically a weightless environment. I would be running away from stringing in my FDM models....this may not be my exit.
I haven't seen any research into metals, as all of the chemicals used in resin printing that I am aware of are photo polymers (plastics). The support process is a big counter intuitive with printing in resin. It's easier to think of it as an upside down, slightly flexible FDM print.
Good to know stuff, I've just bought a resin printer it will be interesting to see how I'll go with it. I have 4 fdm printers. Can I add tip number 10? Ok hey guys I see this video is little old now and technology and chemicals improved since, so anyhow my tip is from what I've gathered so far from youtube etc: Tip No. 10 : buy water washable resin
Missed what slicer software you where using? Got any link
I was using Asura 3D I think. Only really good for Peopoly Moai. Otherwise for other printers, I'd recommend Chitubox.
As of August 21, 2019 Zortrax's Z-Suite can now be used for all LCD resin printers. It might need a bit to configure for your specific hardware, but I like the functionality and smart features it provides.
@@MarkRhodesMaker My friends and I want to try our hands at some D&D 25mm style miniatures. Where human-sized figures are 1/56 scale.
1) What 3D printer would you recommend for this and 2) Resin or Filament?
Jason TheConner resin 100%. Try a Peopoly Moai, Elegoo Mars or Prusa SL1.
@@MarkRhodesMaker thank you sooooooo much!! All the research I've been doing seems overwhelming.
I'm wondering if resin has improved much since this was released, my resin has little smell and doesn't seem to react with my skin in the slightest, I have a good pair of pvc gauntlets that I use for messy procedures but if I'm just removing a print I frequently (don't copy me) don't wear gloves at all, granted I only touch the top of the build plate and my knife then I manipulate the freed item with tweezers until its washed. After which again I use my bare hands usually to put it to cure.
I have to wonder if its an issue with varying sensitivity to the resin.
Side note I use an anycubic photon and have so far used the anycubic standard grey and elegoo water washable clear green.
Thank you for the information.
Thanks this told me that 3D printing probably isn't for me and that I should depend on those dedicated to it already for reaources.
Thanks for the reality check.
Thanks Martin, I hope it gave you some informed insight into resin printing :)
I can’t wait for the day that I can print a large helmet in a resin printer... assuming the cost of resin eventually drops 😂
Uncle Jessy how cool would that be? I don't know if the tech scales that well, but would be interesting to find out!
Kind of no point if you’re printing in large scales. Just use an Fdm printer lol
@@ballislife9092 I'm not sure I agree! Not having to do much sanding (or at least the sanding with resin is SOOOO MUCH EASIER) would improve my output significantly :)
@@ballislife9092 times get better in resin print as it does a whole layer at once so if they are the same height it will be the same time. whether its a thin narrow item or a big thing that takes the whole base up. on fdm 5 time the size is 5 time the print time.
Hopefully everyone is aware that there's printing a large helmet for cosplay, and then there's printing a *crash-safe* helmet for use while riding or in sports.
You need to do an update as many things have changed. Lower cost printers keep on improving
hobbyhands You're correct, I'll think about it!
Hi, i'm thinking to buy an elegoo mars pro to start with simple jewellery designs print to see how they are in real life
What do you think about it? I seen also the anycubic printers but the quality of the mars pro is incredible for the price
I'm on the budget
Can you give me some advice?
From what I've heard it's an exceptionally good printer. Great quality and value for money.
great video thanks for all the tips now I just have to find a good 3d printer in my price range
bornfrombordum I believe the Elegoo Mars is still on Amazon for $249
Have you got any experience with printing technical stuff as gears, covers for electronic devices etc? I have problem with keeping dimensions. E.g. if gear has hole diameter 5mm, the axle must have less then 4.4mm to match the hole. This is huge difference which makes any technical constructions almost impossible to print. Moreover, if I wanted to use different resins - I would have to do separate project for each of them! It doesn't make sense.
I discovered that every resin expands size of printed object by constant value per each side of this object. E.g. Anycubic green transparent resin, adds 0.15 - 0.2mm per side (Photon S). The beige opaque resin adds 0.1mm per side. Is there any calibrating software which will modify STL project in order to compensate dimensions?
I've found resin to be really hard to use for dimensional accuracy. Each resin reacts differently, and depending on your printing process, and the shape you are printing you are unlikely to have uniform expansion / contraction on each axis. For stuff like this I prefer to use FDM / FFF printing. I don't really have good advice here sorry! Good luck!
Awesome tips!
Awesome info! I'm new here. I have really been wanting to get a resin printer for my channel recently!
SamuelMennega Designs: Making Awesome Stuff! Thanks! I love my resin printer. It takes a little more work, and it’s a bit more expensive, but oh the results!!
when you're discussing quality issues in this video... what do you consider a cheap printer vs an expensive printer?
These days it's kind of moot, as the price is so low now. Anything from Elegoo or Anycubic is going to be ok!
Camera 1, Camera 2, Camera 1, Camera 1 & 2........ it's a nice touch but used too often and too much to the point I lost track of what you were saying... sorry....
tecknick it's fine! Thanks for the feedback 🙂
Hey, so I want to buy my dad a resin 3D printer, he only works with 1/64 scale. I've seen a lot of the Longer 10, the orange one and I wanted to know if that works or what would you recommend. Thank you ☺
Yeraldy Wilson haven't tried the longer. Joel Telling the 3D Printing Nerd has a video on that printer, maybe check that out?
@@MarkRhodesMaker perfect, thank you!
I have the Orange 10 (made some videos on it) I really like it and it's a price I could afford.
you say that the more you spend on money the less you spend on time. From what i have seen the more higher end resin printers are sla and cheaper ones are more dlp. Technically you would be able to go faster with the dlp since your only worrying about z axis and not having a laser or mirrors move which takes more time. I would say the more money you throw the more detail and option you have.
Jack Greer fair comment, and it was more relevant when DLP printers were tiny!
Just quick question I'm looking at getting a resin printer would you recommend the elegoo mars or the anycubic photon s ?
I have had a Photon, but have never tried an Elegoo. With that in mind, I would recommend the Elegoo, simply on price. Uncle Jessy has been having some amazing results with it.
@@MarkRhodesMaker I have both the Photon S and Mars. Both are good printers, but the Mars is cheaper so go for that. I would also pick up their resin since it's such a great price and I found their blue didn't have any strong odors, but it's still noticeable. I tried Anycubic's Aqua Blue recently and it prints fine, but I've notice the smell is stronger and the price was a little more than Elegoo's resin.
@@Floreum Thank you for that advice. I'll try the Elegoo blue and see how it fares for me.
Did you rehearse your hand gestures?? 👀
Jake Snack no rehersal, a large part of my professional life is talking and presenting to audiences, I just kind of go with that for my videos. Hopefully it works!
@@MarkRhodesMaker it shows ! You come off very professionally! 👍
Jake Snack 🙏
In the current pandemic what do you recommend as a temporary alternative to IPA?
I use Methylated Spirits. Several other folks have suggested things like Simple Green as an alternative, I’d suggest checking out Uncle Jessy’s channel for more info on that 🙂
it's just too bad that Asura has a registration wall that prevents you from using the software before you register it AND that the registration wall cannot find the internet to allow you to register. Well documented over the last year, and all they say in the support forums in "contact support for a work around." There are enough work arounds required in 3D printing. Jumping through more hoops just to test a piece of software is just not tenable. I fully understand they have the right to do that. But it caused me to download the software, try to register it, play around with firewall settings and still fail, and then finally to just delete the software untried. Might be the best thing since sliced bread. I'll never know. And if Peopoly is that bad on software registration (something that is basic stuff), then how good can they be at anything else? Great video! Thanks for the info. But the Asura recommendation would be more effective if they would solve the issues they been asked about for a year.
Hey, I'm not sure what you're referring to. I'm on the latest version of Asura and do not recall ever having to register?
Mark Of The Rhodes When I downloaded the software and attempted to open a file within Asura, I was prompted to enter my email address to register. Without registration I couldn’t import the file. When I submitted the info, a few seconds later it came back and said it could not connect to the internet and I should try again later when I was connected. “Odd” I thought. I had just downloaded the software. I was on RUclips watching vids. So I knew there wasn’t an internet disconnect. I tried a few more times with the same result. I hit the forums. And sure enough, going back a year this has popped up. And their solution is to call or email customer support for a work around. Some people even report that the workarounds, which apparently involve support sending a registration file, did not work. So honestly it’s all together too much trouble when I already have a solution I’m comfortable with. I just thought based on your high praise of it I should check it out because I’m always on the lookout for better/faster/smarter. But registration walls are more about getting marketing information than they are about keeping a user informed of changes. I can’t ever recall getting any update email from anyone except Microsoft that I didn’t already know about the update. I strongly feel that this hobby industry must be community first. And registration walls that fail and require “workarounds” to even import a file just isn’t community first in my opinion. And for this to have dragged on a year, it shows that Asura isn’t interested in solving the issues that their users face. Now, if I were the only person to have had the issue, or if I hadn’t seen their own support messages on forums I might have been more tolerant and tried the workaround. But a year is time enough to get this issue fixed. Heck, even with my sad programming skills, I can write a script that will pull info from a website and display it. Would take about 5 minutes. And Peopoly surely has better coders than me. So it really is a disinterest in solving the problem. So for me, that bodes ill for anything else they do.
Robert Allen Payne I am in contact with Peopoly, I’ll pass the feedback on! Thanks 😊
What printer would you recommend?
Will the fumes harm animals like cats?
I've been getting my nitrile gloves from the hardware store and found them for $13 USD for 100. I assumed they would be cheap at the drug store but they were actually twice as much!
Here in Australia I can pick them up for $10 for 100 at Bunnings. This is the first time I've ever heard of anything being cheaper in Australia than the USA. Finally a win!
Mark Of The Rhodes i found some online for under $7
Why didn't you say what brand x is so we could avoid it? Not saying what it is could screw over some people who buy it because they were uninformed
Manufacturer resins? Hah! Siraya Tech Fast and BLU is just godly.
Just FYI isopropyl alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner is a huge safety hazard, don't put flammable liquids in an ultrasonic cleaner because it can catch fire
Call out the bad brands! Don't worry about losing a potential sponsorship with a bad product.
I actually prefer not to simply because I'd rather people make up their own minds about products typically.
10:00 dunking the print bed and print in the ipa bath or the vat and print in the ipa bath?
This needs to be updated. Cheap printers are amazing nowadays
What do you mean by over curing?
Over curing is where too might UV light on the partially cured resin removes detail from the print. There is a really fine balancing act between undercured (not enough light to cure the liquid resin into a solid), properly cured (good detail and strength) and overcured (very strong, but loss of detail).
Can you make an updated video
CUBED you know what? Yes I can
The slicer you're using is called what? Seuyra? Is that the same as Cura?
I wonder if 'Brand X' resin reacts to oxygen. I've heard of some resins that cure poorly in the open air but do very nicely in a small glass of water. If you still have any 'Brand X', it would be interesting to see a comparison.
I was informed that the resin can leach through latex, so for sure use nitrile gloves, I have not confirmed this but it's also not worth the risk.
I'd question this one Darrick. These are fairly large molecules, and if water can't get through, I can't see them leaking through. Regardless, I use Nitrile as they tend to have no powder, and are more resilient than latex :)
Got a link for access supplies? or is it Axes suppiles or axis supplies
What printer do you use?
I currently use a Peopoly Moai for my resin printing.
@@MarkRhodesMaker thank you for the reply! I appreciate it
I have an elegoo mars. The prints stick the film instead of the build plate, does anyone know how to fix this?
McFreezy YaBoi apparently you can lubricate the FEP film. Check out Uncle Jessy’s channel. He talks about it.
You mentioned gcode. I thought that was for FDM printers.
Depends on the printer! My Peopoly Moai (SLA Resin Printer) uses Gcode, others use different formats :)
I guess I need to stop drinking resin now. :( But seriously, great job and great tips for resin printing.
Thanks for watching! And yeah, I'd probably kick that unhealthy resin drinking habit, unless of course you heard that same rumour I did, that it will grant you the super powers of a resin printer? (That's a joke, if anyone is reading this, DON'T DRINK RESIN)
Brand X made me think of the powerpuff girls, lol
Tell us what Brand X is so we can avoid that ....
I'd rather not disparage a brand purely on my own experiences. Instead I'd recommend that you find a brand that works for you. For me, I stick with the Peopoly branded resin, as that seems to work extremely well for me :)
Which resin do you like today?
name of brand x ?
Isn't something I'd share!
@@MarkRhodesMaker so we need too get screwd on bad resin too find out .thx alot
10cents I wish
I haven't seen any video that would convince me to come near resin printing, specially since those things really are not made for bedrooms.
The Shadow Man can’t argue with that, definitely not one for a bedroom! Just the smell would be enough to bother me
I use mine in a motel room I keep it under a stove vent or in the bathroom
Videos 2 years old, but it wreaks if Peopoly fanboyism.
It sure does, because that’s what I used. Also, it’s “reeks”.
brand x to cover brand but using trade marked figures ... why
Brand X, Brand X, it’s simple and plain.
Thanks for making this video!
First time I hear someone pronoune Peopoly like Broccoli and Monopoly :) The manufacturer pronounce their name Peo - Poly
Pieter La Grange I have never heard it out loud, so just went with what made sense to me! 😂
There is only one thing i want to know: HOW TOXIC IS THIS STUFF?!?
Just wear gloves and try not to handle it. Obviously don't add it to any cocktails :)
@@MarkRhodesMaker , that sounds awfully scientific! :)
Wadel Radel well I’m not a mixologist or anything...
I'd be in if it wasn't for the resin. I don't want brand x third degree burns for life.
Dont use IPA on a ultrasonic cleaner you can burn down you house.
I thought that was a 3d-printed cigarette at top-right for a couple of seconds.
Hey that gives me an idea...
Holy shit is this the real Gary McKinnon?
@@camd2734 Ye baybee x x x @DoubleOhNever on twitter.com
"may have woken up with a resin printer under your chrismas tree"
yeah, No that would never happen. no one loves me that much. i had to work and buy one myself.
same thing for my FDM printer... :( most of my family doesn't understand most the things i do. nor show gratitude or surprise.
This sounds like way too much work and too much hassle. I might want to wait a number of years to see if the resin printing process becomes more streamlined and simpler (or, perhaps another 3D printing technology altogether). The only thing that was really appealing to me when I first heard of it were how quick DLP and LCD printing can be with the whole-layer-at-once approach.
Legend of the Stormlord maybe look at the Prusa SL1 then? They are selling a wash and cure device that takes a lot of the pain out of it.
@@MarkRhodesMaker Thank you! I will check that out. I've been somewhat on the fence about buying a 3D printer for years. There were MANY times where I said to myself "I just wish I had a part for that". Do you know if there are ANY cured resins or dried filament that are non-toxic, food safe and insoluble in water? Specifically, they can make contact with de-ionized water and not contaminate the water? Many of my parts would be for homemade sterile scientific equipment.
@@ChristmasEve777 That's a tough one. Maybe some of the dental resins? They are designed to be human safe. I haven't come across any in the hobbyist / maker area that I'd even consider putting near my face !
@@MarkRhodesMaker Thanks for the response. Yeah, that's true, you'd think dental resin has to be safe. But about the other resins - your statement makes me wonder. If you can't even have it near your face, how safe is it to handle the finished pieces and then eat or touch your face without washing your hands first. Certainly they couldn't be that toxic, are they? I wouldn't want to print toxic objects and have them laying around my house. Maybe cured resin is safer than you think. If not, I'll never get a resin-based printer.
Can you imagine, you have a guest over and she says "Oh wow, I love this figurine! Nice detail!" and you say "Thank you, now please wash your hands!" lol :)
@@ChristmasEve777 It is a pretty contentious issue. I personally have no problem handling cured pieces, it's the ones with uncured residuals that worry me. The problem is really uncured stuff inside the print oozing / leaking out over time. I think it's a material science problem that will likely get better over time as the photopolymer chemistry matures for the purpose.
Lord Jesus, when will the people of RUclips stop saying like and subscribe?
Probably after 2019, which is when this was filmed 🤣
OMG - Someone who actually knows how to do the two camera shot.
People who don't (stare off into some other camera and not the viewer) come across as amateurs - and NO, it's not a technique to be looking elsewhere when talking into a camera when using two cameras.
Thank you for noticing! I gave it a try and while I really liked it, I had some feedback that viewers didn't like it. Maybe I'll try to bring it back in with some subtle B cam cuts..
Unfortunately a lot of professionals have started doing this and I hate it. I keep thinking "who are you looking at? I'm over here!"
@@3DJapan It's very much a "I just got out of film school" look when they talk into nothing.
@@3DJapan I feel the same way! It is a bit jarring.
Thanks for the Vid this convinces me to not buy a resin printer for a long time.
Not at all my intention Bran, hopefully you see it as a positive technology, I certainly do!
Not at all my intention Bran, I just wanted to give an unbiased viewpoint. I think it's a great technology, with perhaps some drawbacks that aren't made obvious!
Really like the upside of resin printers ie detail but really don't want the post-processing work that goes with each print. They are such a tempting price at the moment..
@@mrfoameruk You should check out Uncle Jessy's channel. He's been doing reviews on budget resin printers and getting some GREAT results. ruclips.net/channel/UC8i8e7likh-EYMq1bZ0ttHw
@@mrfoameruk The post processing isn't really that big of a deal. Like 15 minutes of work after the model comes out of the printer.
This is the first video of yours I have watched, and I'm not yet sure if you change this in the future, but the weird video cuts to the side are really jarring and bring me out of the video. I would encourage you to find a different way to do it.
TheHandsofTheDevil thanks for the feedback! I don’t do those anymore. 🙂
Good call 1 camera is more personal and probably easier to edit