An old cyclist in his seventies told me a few tips on how to avoid punctures. 1) hang a new tyre out to dry for a few weeks, the rubber of a new tyre is soft and more prone to punctures 2) pressure, on the tyre the required pressure is visible, i use 25 mm tyres, pressure front 6,5 bar and the back a bit harder 7,5 bar, to avoid whats called snake bite punctures 3) very important, clean tyres after a ride with a damp cloth to remove small bits of sand, stone so they dont dry up in the rubber. Very important this of course after a ride in the wet when sand and gravel is more likely to stick to the rubber, most punctures happen when riding wet roads Hope its usefull.
Besides all of the methods stated in this video, there's a way that really helps with the harsh roads, almost completely free although unimaginable for weight-weenies: Cut an old tube open along the inner side (when completely flat), cut off the valve and the thick layer of rubber and wrap it around the tube that is to be inflated, then place it all together in the tire (can be tricky to mount it all precisely) and inflate the tire regularly. I commute on a road bike with a 23c tires stuffed this way and haven't had a single puncture for 2 seasons on the same rough road I used before, where I had about 1 puncture per month before this experiment. So, add about 30-40 grams of rotating weight per wheel and forget puncture problems. And as I'm no pro, I couldn't notice the difference in the rolling resistance. If anybody tries this, I'd like to hear the opinion. Cheers!
Will try this, this maybe Anecdotal but I’ve had a gator skin on my rear for over a year and never once had a flat and isn’t showing much signs of wear. I have a swarbe on the front and have quite a few punctures. Just about to swap both out for new Gators.
I ride my bicycle to work(6000+ miles a year). I have a intermediate heavy duty tyre with tyre liners and a regular tube. Gotten my first flat last week in one year. The tire was worn out. I have ridden through broken glass, thorns, train tracks, road debri, etc. I did try my best avoiding them but here in southern California I prefer a flat tyre than being hit by reckless car drivers.
@@nc3826 Wow. 5 years since I posted this comment only to return with 30+ likes and two replies. It's great to see this community is still viable and am very happy for it. I guess I can clarify the last section since I prefer to retain the original comment without editing to reflect on my previous-self. Looking at that...hmmph...that doesn't make any sense at all. I was going through an arduous time. All I had/think at the moment for positive improvement was a bicycle (now stolen) and Global Cycling Network. Recollection of that moment of the comment was due to an exacerbated amount of arrogance, pride, and depression. Cycling and this wonderful channel has paid off long-term. I wish I could hug my younger-self and tell him," you're on the right path, its not easy." Thank you, N C, for your comment whether its intention was positive or negative.
@@Chris-qb8pl That's awesome, dude. Hopefully, you're wearing all the safety gear. Keep it up.The long term benefits to you and to anybody around you is a feeling of well-being is self resonating.
@@EnergyTurtle101 I rather enjoyed your insight overall... but it seemed to have an inconsistency that I sardonically made reference too... and I'm sorry to hear the bike was stolen, but it seems like a right of passage for all bike riders at some point... btw I was just trying to be honest... so I'm not sure if that is being positive or negative? but I'm positive I wish the best for you and all cyclists...
I have found that riding on top of the tracks of cars' tires is the cleanest line on the road because all the debris and small sharp pieces are pushed at the edges or middle of the road!
Tried Gatorskins and punctured within 200 miles. Gatorhardshells are the way to go. I've done 12,000 miles on them and still not had a puncture. I'm 90 kilos and ride on some really rough roads in Ayrshire, these tyres are the business.
agreed, Scotland requires a solid tire and unless you're a pro it's unlikely that you'll notice the weight. I know people that haven't had flats in over a year.
I just use puncture resistant tubes, anti-puncture tire liners and i put a whole bottle of slime in each one just to make sure Have not had to change tubes or tires in over 2 years
Hovering around 67-70 kg on 25 mm tyres, I find anything over 620 kPa (90 lb/in^2) to be over-inflated. Lower pressures are so much more comfortable, and you don't give up any rolling resistance unless the surfaces you ride on are perfectly smooth.
I have been using the Continental Gatorskin for a few years on my training bike and I can tell you its an AMAZING tire!!! 2 years and never a puncture, well worth any extra weight and rolling resistance penalty if there is one-- Best training tire I have ever used
Continental Gatorskins are perfect. I use 25mm on my rear wheel and 23mm on the front. 25mm will have the least rolling resistance. I have zero punctures this season on my Gatorskins - 8000 km total. Don't use latex tubes, especially in the mountains as they tend to "melt" when breaking a lot when going downhill. Here in Denmark we have an extreme amount of flint stones on the roads (it's in the sand they put on the roads during winter). So you will have a lot of them in your tires. I remove them twice a week. Some weeks I will remove up to 5 of them. It's insane. I am quite sure that Denmark has the highest puncture rate in the world due to this.
For those who don't mind a fair amount of extra weight for the peace of mind of having no punctures, I have three words: Schwalbe Marathon Plus. I've done 3K miles on mine and no punctures whatsoever as yet. Best puncture proof tyres in the game, I swear by them.
I'm glad you mentioned the size of the inner tube. I've had good luck going bigger than smaller e.g. using a 25-28mm tube on a 25mm tire rather than an 18-25 tube. It is a bit of pain to mount but the tubes do seem to be more reliable.
Durano plus's are heavy, but not had one puncture since i've had them. Probably done equal miles with gp4000's and had 3 in the same amount of time. Worth it over winter I think.
well all of these replys support the theory that tyre choice is still a BIG subject for bike riders and we definatly have some very small children with very small willys who will never grow up and who have anger management issues.
One of the article I read about innertubes was saying that, if innertube is not extremely thick, there is almost no effect for the puncture resistant. If we talk about the road bike tubes, the result was almost the same for 60 and 110gram tubes. After 150 or more, it was effecting the resistance visibly... (Regular road tubes are around 100 grams and light ones weights around 65gram on scale)
I've been riding mtb. where I live because the roads are horrible but, I switched to a road bike because I want to train more effectively. I've been getting punctures weekly and spending more time replacing tubes than riding. Instead of buying new tires I went with slime tubes and tire liners and no punctures all week. so far, so good.
Continental Ultra Sport 23c road tires, 20,000 km never a flat. Incredible tires. I run 90 and 100 lbs pressure, I weigh 58kgs. I bought these tires online for $13 each. Cant beat that.
Got my first puncture today both tyres were flat. Was 25 miles from home and just paid £70 for 2 Kevlar tyres and 2 new inner tubes. Will keep these in mind for next time
Honestly making sure I don't ride too close to the edge and keeping an eye on the tarmac have been the best ways for me to stop getting punctures. That, and tires with puncture protection. Although I had those to begin with, but beeing a noob I wasn't inflating them enough, which led to two pinch flats and once I ran over a metal band that cut the side of the tire.
I run 28 gatorskins on my bike, the roads were I live are really patchy and not in great condition, I have had them for just over 2 years now on the same bike and have never had a puncture touch wood. the really do role very smoothly and are super grippy on grimy winter roads.
I had never thought of checking the tyre on the inside properly before for sharp objects, I've always done a quick look over, but never used my hands to thoroughly go all the way round. And lo and behold I found two thin pieces of metal that had been wedged in there for god knows how long. (Probably explains my constant punctures) It seems so obvious now that you mentioned it, but it never crossed my mind before!
I've had good luck with gatorskins. I've ran them on different bikes over several years with few or no punctures. They have a lot more rolling resistance than other tires but they're well worth it. I've ridden right through broken glass, metal, etc and no punctures.
There is a problem in my city with people on nights out throwing their beer bottles out the windows of cars and into the bike lanes. It really amazes me when I see broken glass on the side of a remote country road as well as in the heart of the city.
I like Gatorskins for their feel as well as their puncture resistance. I've used Specialized Armadillos before, and never got punctured once in the years I used them, but they ride like solid rock next to a Gatorskin. I have seen Gators intercept amazing things too. I work in a bike shop in Irvine California, and the one I particularly remember was that one of the bikes I worked on had an inch-long piece of metal jammed into the tread of its rear wheel, and it didn't juncture the tube. When I told the rider, they didn't even know anything wan wrong with it. The tire was still fully inflated, and they rolled out happy.
In my opinion, anything that reduces the number of punctures over the winter can only be a good thing - I'm quite happy to have more rolling resistance and just go around corners slower if I've got a little less grip - anything to stop getting freezing cold and moody whilst fixing a flat on the side of the road! One winter I used a tyre liner - I didn't get a puncture the whole winter, and in fact the rear tyre was down to the carcass by February when I transferred away from my winter wheels. Dan
Alexandar Hull-Richter Gatorskins are great. Over the life of ~4000 miles on my set and I've only got two obvious punctures--a shard of glass and a sharp pebble and three questionable tube punctures--one tube failing blowout, and two punctures from poorly wrapped rim tape (no visible evidence of puncture). Though if you do get a flat, they are a pain to get on and off the rim (at least my wire beads were). Today, I feel like moving on from Gators though since I'm particularly looking for more grip especially on descents. Living in CA, I'm not very susceptible to wet weather punctures so Conti Grand Prixs here I come.
A couple things. First, while wider tires do have advantages, it's important to get a tire that's appropriate for the wheel and the bike. My Zipps have a 19mm width and my chainstays can only handle a tire of 23mm max--anything more not only weakens the aero benefits of the wheel system but will rub against the chainstay. Second, I'd add that riding in the wet increases the risk of punctures because little sharp rocks adhere to the tire and may work their way in. I use the liners when the temperatures get colder and wetter--I've never had to fix a flat with them. But if you're racing you'll pay at least a 20 watt rolling resistance premium if you use liners or Gatorskins.
Highly recommend the weekly (for a daily rider - probably less important for Sunday specialists) check for embedded flints or glass, particularly if you find yourself riding on any tarmac off-carriageway bike routes shared with pedestrians (I'm looking at you, NCN11).
Running heavy duty butyl tubes with sealant on everything from 700Cx25mm on cross bike to 29inx4in on Fat Bike. For 99% of punctures over the past 20+ years I just removed the offending sharp item, gave the wheel a spin (to spread the sealant) add some air and carry on riding :-) 'heavy duty' tubes + sealant does carry a 'weight penalty' but well worth it for puncture resistance and quick, easy repair while out on a ride.:-)
The wider the tire, the lower the PSI. Also, when you have a tubeless compatible rim like the HED Belgium Plus, running at a high pressure can damage the bead area. When I first rode my HEDs, I pumped the tires up to 120 PSI as was normal for me even though there was a label on the rims stating the maximum PSI was 100. Since I had no further information, I attributed this warning to the company fearing a tire blowing of the rim. However when my tires began to dethread in the bead area, I saw that the rim had actually cut into the tire. Consequently, I reduced the tire pressure to about 80-85 PSI while noticing virtually no increase in rolling resistance. Wider tires and rims are where it's at.
I rode my Specialized Armadillo tires across the USA without flatting once. Got a total of 8000 miles on them before they started showing signs of wear!
If you run tubes you can always buy ones with removable presta valve bodies and seal those. I have a tube from a cross bike that has lasted about three years. Races and all!
For the last couple years I've run 700x25-32 triple-thick tubes in a 700x23 tire (tubes one size wider). I run between 80-100 psi, usually on the lower end of that. Ever since I started doing this, I have had zero pinch flats and one puncture (thumbtack). The last tube I replaced was due to it being old enough for the valve stem to wear out and actually break. I am 170 pounds, my bike is another 40... I ride fast and hard, every day, in all conditions. I hop curbs, charge drainage gutters, and even ride on dirt trails. Yet, my number of flats is virtually non-existent when compared to that of people running light, thin tubes at high pressure. I literally go through tires faster than I go through tubes. Not only that, but I find the ride to be cushier this way...If you truly want reliability out of your tires, do this. Abandon your obsession with marginal gains and give yourself something worthwhile.
Got a set of gatorskins. Had 6 months and I think I've had 2 rim pinch and one giant thorn that no tyres would of stood a chance against so I'm happy with them. Only issue is that they are so hard to get on!
A very good video. I commute on my bike. I don't enjoy punctures. I don't care if it weighs more or makes the bike less lively. If you are the same, I recommend Schwalbe tires (Marathon Plus). I also recommend ""Mr Tuffy" tire liners. Replace the tires and tubes before they wear out, as older tires tend to get more flats.
Watching this after not finishing my last race due to an impact puncture when I was 6kms away from finish line and was standing second position. Bloody I lost the podium because of it😥
Gatorskin tires are just awesome! Never had a problem with them on my rides! Contact plus also by continental is just the panzer tank of tires! I haven’t had a problem yet!
I live in an area plagued with "Goat Head weeds" also known as "Puncturevine". The thorns of this vine are hard and sharp and will puncture through shoes. During late summer, the thorny seeds are everywhere and 2 flats per ride are common.
I've used Specialized Armadillos for decades. Very rarely get flats and only then near the end of their life. I get over 10,000 km life on them before I change them (I'm 95 kg, 700cx25) and that's because I start getting flats. Only bugger is changing the tire - they can be difficult to mount (and finding them). Always spend a few seconds after every ride checking for anything embedded in the tires.
About the puncture resistant linings mentioned, I used them for a while but found that they may actually cause flats because of the extra friction created between the tyre, the lining, and the tube. If you use them, make sure to regularly check their condition and replace them if necessary - or better yet - do not use them at all and invest in a decent tyre.
+Andy B. I agree. The friction part is arguable but for the most part you are right. As long as you check your tire, have a good psi in your tubes, etc. You should be just fine
A couple of important points to consider: There is another tradeoff when you use a really wide tire like a 28, and that is aerodynamic drag. That can either be a minimal or major issue, depending on the event. For a front wheel in a time trial, hell no, you don't want a 28mm tire. Similarly, a tire like a gatorskin, weight is again not the only, or even the most significant tradeoff. The rolling resistance of a gatorskin is massive compared to a good race tire. Many watts, like more than 10, being wasted. Not an issue for training, but racing on them is madness.
I used to use continental tour ride on my commute road bike and I never punctured, the thick tread and puncture resistant strip worked wonders for me. I had a nice piece of glass which was about 4mm long, maybe more, get stuck in the tire and didn't puncture, just left a tiny scar on the tire.
To my surprise I've been very happy with some Specialized Espoir (not even Elites) tyres that came with my bike. They are cheaper than other puncture resistant tyres I've used in the past at just £15 and thus far have done nearly 5000km puncture free on some rough roads and occasional unpaved or gravel surfaces too. I've invested in a replacement set for when the inevitable puncture due to wear pops up but more than happy to do that once every 9 months.
3 punctures yesterday caused by glass. Schoolboy error by me though not checking the outer tyre properly before putting a new tube in. It was good practice though and using washing up liquid as lube when putting the tyre back on really helped
Had my tires below the minimum psi, got a bad pinch flat on an awful road up in the mountains with no spare tires and no phone coverage to call anyone to pick me up. The only way some people learn is by experience. I had to walk almost all the way back up and down the climb. Just pump up your tires. The cheapest Schawlbes can handle the awful sharp gravel and potholes I rode on as long as you're careful, which I was not at all.
The one thing I'd disagree with here is lightweight inner tubes being false economy - anything that manages to pierce the puncture protection layer of your tyre will very likely also puncture your butyl tube, no matter whether it's a 50g one or a 100g one. And considering how much money people spend on wheels that are just a few hundred grams lighter, getting another 100g off your wheelset for just a tenner makes buying heavier tubes look much more like false economy.
I would get punctures on a regular basis probably because of where I was riding. When I switched tires to Continental 4000S, it made a huge difference over the cheap stock tires that came with the bike.
I also had one puncture per day but it wat the tire it was in bad condition inside that was damage my inner tube. There were cuts all over my inner tube!
I use Schwalbe DURANO on my roadbike for my daily commutes to work and back, 4.000 to 5.000 km/year. There were only a few punctures (never from sharp object, ..only impacts) as theese tires are very well protected. The downside is they are quite heavy and it feels. But other than that very reliable, not much maintenance.
I'm new to biking but could I put a 28 puncture protected tire on the back(where I get many more flats) and still keep a 23 more racing tire up front? I weigh 152lb
The other thing to mention is that Gatorskins are much more difficult to get on and off in the event of a puncture. For this reason, I prefer running regular non-puncture protective tyres, like Vittoria Zaffiro Pros.
I swear by Gatorskins, wouldn't fit anything else now. Tubeless just seems a hell of a lot of faffing about and greater investment for me to upgrade. I'm a creature of habit, stick to what I know best. Great video again GCN.
Many people that get flats every 30 miles or less get them because of bad job at innertube instalation. When installing innertube or rapidly inflating a tube a small pinch of the innertube can be created between tire and rim. As you ride this pinch is distrassed and punctures the innertube. If you inspect the innertube after puncture and see two holes or distress points near eachover then you know you messed up durring instalation. Point being watch how to properly install innertubes before trying yourself. P.S. I thought GCN would mention that and put a link ....but I geusse I was wrong.
Photo Therapeut i finally went to 28mm on my road bike this season, what an amazing difference! cant believe it took so long for people (myself included) to realize the huge advantage of fat tires
I found gatorskins are not really that good. Both me and a friend ran them for a while on our daily commutes, and got punctures surprisingly often. He's since switched to a Panasonic ribmo, and I've switched to hutchinson fusion 3s, and both are an order of magnitude better. It surprised me that such a light thin tire would be better than the thick heavy gatorskin, but the proof is in the pudding. I went from weekly flats on Conti ultras (dirt cheap at the LBS) to monthly on the gatorskins, to maybe a couple a year on the hutchinsons.
My guess is why pros choose Nice as a training camp, roads are pressure washed daily. The mountain roads are also very lightly traveled so theres not much debris. Ive put 1000km on my madone 5.2 so far and no punctures yet. Mix of US and French roads. On the other hand on my old bike i hit a razor blade and destroyed the sidewall.
perhaps a safety video with stunt doubles could be a future production - specifically how to survive a puncture / tyre blowout when descending and / or cornering. should you brace for impact? perhaps Dan could use that same crash matt he tried using once when teaching us about clipless pedals - after all, it has never been used ;)
I punctured 2 light inner tubes just by changing the tube and trying to put my extremely tight tire back on. Changed to normal cheaper tube and it didn't puncture.
In Denmark its common to sprinkle the roads with gravel, that contains 80% utrasharp small flint pieces. After I started using inlays in the tires (25mm), mountainbike inlays, I've not had a single puncture !
Ive had about 5 Punctures now in the last month,Even replaced the tire to a spare one I had,Yet again,Lasted about a week,It gone flat again,No idea where Im keep on getting punchers all the time,I know what im going to do soon on my Electric bike,I remove both tires and inner tubes,get them freshly replaced,Hopfully that will solve some problems,Ive never know to get so many Punctures,Luckly enough im glad I have a train station near by,Tire went flat again the other week,I had to get the train home
can recommend to cover the inner tire and the inside of the outer tire with talcum powder. it's old style from Holland but proven to avoid impact punctures to almost zero. Also it can dissolve small debris entering the inside of the tire.
Spent a bit of time practicing my bunny hops yesterday after watching the bike handling how-to and landed myself a snakebite puncture - lesson, avoid punctures by not bunny hopping your way down the street!
They roll fast but they're far from puncture-proof. I punctured one (with less than 300km on it) by rolling over a bolt that was unluckily positioned with the tip pointing up: cut a ~2mm plug straight through the tire and tube. Had to replace a nearly brand-new tire.
Great video...I ride Gatorskins but i do feel a slight slight extra resistance. When I'm riding in NY. ..they are a necessity. No European car-less roads that see no traffic and are debris free. A year on them and they have taken abuse...I will go from a 23 to a 25 in a month. I believe Continental has a new Gatorskin (I've heard mixed reviews on improvement) You would think by now after countless years...rim taoe wouldnot be necessary. Why isnt a lining standard on all rims? I'm sure they have this and they could invent something that makes rim tape obsolete. Must be a physics thing. Great video again.
This maybe Anecdotal but I’ve had a gator skin on my rear for over a year and never once had a flat and isn’t showing much signs of wear. I have a swarbe on the front and have quite a few punctures. Just about to swap both out for new Gators.
does really 23mm tires puncture a lot? i daily use a vintage road bike with a 20mm tire in front wheel and a 23mm tire in the back wheel. i dont have so much puncture problems but im questioning to buy 25mm tires to avoid maybe future punctures, what should i do?
I cycled 30km today, stopped to go in a shop and came out my tyre was flat. Didn't make sense at first as I havn't had a puncture in years. so going from 100psi to 0 without even riding it made no sense. I thought maybe someone cut the tyre but nope. apparently on hot days you can get a "heat puncture" I guess when your moving the wind keeps it a little cooler. but when you stop in the sun it gets too hot. Not sure if I need to run less PSI on hot days. Just glad it didn't go while I was flying down some steep hills.
6700km since i picked up cycling, and not a single puncture No puncture as a kid, riding 50 dollar bikes around the block too I sure do hope this lasts
Repairing tubeless tires sucks if you have to, and the sealant always dries up eventually, forcing more maintenance and the tire collecting more rubber unless you strip lining of the tire of the dried sealant. It's not worth the amount of extra bike maintenance unless you don't know how to use talcum power or the proper tire widths or air pressure. I've literally used the same tubes for years without failure.
Continental GP 4000 S2. 2400 km , ONE puncture (rear) so far. A big thorn got all the way through the rubber, but you could hardy feel it on the inside.I realized i had a puncture two days after the ride. Nuff said.
+Webgkil Heh I'm just replying to my own comment just to say that I'm still on the same tires.Got one more puncture on the front, and that's it. I'm at 11k kilometers total atm, the front looks good for probably 11k more. The rear is pretty beat up though and I'll be replacing it only for my peace of mind. I am really amazed by the performance of these tires :)
my previous set of tyres were a set of michelin pro 4s - 23 front and 25 rear. I got absolutely zero punctures over the course of the year - average 50 miles commute most days and only had to replace them about a month ago because they had worn down enough that you could see through them and would only stay inflated for about 90 minutes, i personally find continental tyres unsafe as they held very little traction for me in the rain when i used them in the past. possiblly a bad batch though as many people like them.
You forgot to mention adding baby powder in the tire to allow the tube to slide and deform independently of the tire. This improves the ride and decreases impact punctures.
I have mountain bike I go over rough grass i went down a little dip in the grass today bike tire has gone down a little bit I pumped it up just to give a little inflation is that not a good idea plus should I go over bump and grass dip abit slower I went a little fast today I was only testing the suspension and should i stand up if I am going over bumps and small dips in grass I can loosen the front suspension and Tighten it wen i go on roads I lock the suspension
People are swearing by lots of brands and tyres. I am 96 kilos and riding in Melbourne city on road in bike lanes. Which one i should get a pair of. (A) Schwalbe marathon Plus. (B) Specialized Armadillo (C) Gatorskins (D) Gatorskins Hardshell. I am a serious rider but I'll riding to work 13km each way or using a child trailer attachment.
What's the approximate calculation for weight vs. tyre pressure? Only I'll be happy the day the scales tip as high as 45 kilos which is a little far out of the range you mentioned
You forget to say that the heavy tube is only needed on rear wheel to stop snake bite if you run 28 or less and are heavy person. I also got the continental vectran tyres. Rode through broken glass many times never a puncture im 110kg. Vectran is light and only available in continental. Cant be punctured by needle. But had many snake bites on rear wheel. Until i put heavy butyl tube on the back. I swear by vectran for buletproof ride on fast lite tyres
ever switching to schwable durano plus on my current set i Have about 3-4 thousand miles no flats, in the past I used conti gatorskins I would be getting flats all the time, never going back to conti again
are there any good cheap alternatives to Gatorskins? I myself use them, and love them, but a friend of mine has been getting flats left and right, but doesn't really have the money to spend $120+ on a set of tires.
My bike's wheel comes with a schrader type valve, is it possible to do a tubeless conversion using this wheel rim? Most of the tubeless valves are presta type right? is it possible to install presta type valve or does schrader type valve exist for tubeless system? it will be great if you could give me some information regarding this.
@@marcelk6514 The thing is, when I was using Slime tubes, which have a sealant inside them, they always became useless after a few months, because the valves would clog. Maybe the sealant is different.
@@johnhanley9946 yeah, that's possible. My wheels have been running for about a year now, no issues at all. I use Stan's sealant, which works quite well!
I had four punctures on my last big charity ride of 120 miles two pinch, one due to avoiding a dog and running over huge pothole, and two nails/tacks ones and ruined my rider I really wish I could afford the tubeless route. Next upgrade!!
actually m8 i'm never gonna buy continental again you're very accurate review saying that they ""SUCK''......has put me offf them for life and therefore MUST be a rubbish brand.
***** i bought the Continental grand Prix 4 seasons in Hope that they would Last... One week later I glanced of a pepple and sliced the carcass. 40€ down the drain...
***** i'm with vaxbuster continental are very good....you're doing it wrong u because u are a novice and just tyrying 2 be cool. me and vaxbuster are much more experienced. THE END MAGKLOUD X
An old cyclist in his seventies told me a few tips on how to avoid punctures.
1) hang a new tyre out to dry for a few weeks, the rubber of a new tyre is soft and more prone to punctures
2) pressure, on the tyre the required pressure is visible, i use 25 mm tyres, pressure front 6,5 bar and the back a bit harder 7,5 bar, to avoid whats called snake bite punctures
3) very important, clean tyres after a ride with a damp cloth to remove small bits of sand, stone so they dont dry up in the rubber. Very important this of course after a ride in the wet when sand and gravel is more likely to stick to the rubber, most punctures happen when riding wet roads
Hope its usefull.
Hang in the sun or shade?
Jay D Great prolly the shade. Don’t want it at 41 under direct sun. Ya Yeet
@@jamescatlover123 Shade
Besides all of the methods stated in this video, there's a way that really helps with the harsh roads, almost completely free although unimaginable for weight-weenies:
Cut an old tube open along the inner side (when completely flat), cut off the valve and the thick layer of rubber and wrap it around the tube that is to be inflated, then place it all together in the tire (can be tricky to mount it all precisely) and inflate the tire regularly.
I commute on a road bike with a 23c tires stuffed this way and haven't had a single puncture for 2 seasons on the same rough road I used before, where I had about 1 puncture per month before this experiment. So, add about 30-40 grams of rotating weight per wheel and forget puncture problems. And as I'm no pro, I couldn't notice the difference in the rolling resistance.
If anybody tries this, I'd like to hear the opinion.
Cheers!
This guy is right! Ive been doing this for my entire life, and it just works amazing!(in mtb on my experience).
flyduckwings cleaver
will the old tube be in contact with the rim or the tyre
Try the Giant Presta thorn resistant tubes.
Will try this, this maybe Anecdotal but I’ve had a gator skin on my rear for over a year and never once had a flat and isn’t showing much signs of wear. I have a swarbe on the front and have quite a few punctures. Just about to swap both out for new Gators.
I ride my bicycle to work(6000+ miles a year). I have a intermediate heavy duty tyre with tyre liners and a regular tube. Gotten my first flat last week in one year. The tire was worn out. I have ridden through broken glass, thorns, train tracks, road debri, etc. I did try my best avoiding them but here in southern California I prefer a flat tyre than being hit by reckless car drivers.
So outside of SoCal u prefer to be hit by hit by reckless car drivers? Strange, but good luck being safe in the rest of the world too mate.
I do 28 km roundtrip daily, so that works out to about 5,280 km/year just commuting to work.
@@nc3826 Wow. 5 years since I posted this comment only to return with 30+ likes and two replies. It's great to see this community is still viable and am very happy for it.
I guess I can clarify the last section since I prefer to retain the original comment without editing to reflect on my previous-self. Looking at that...hmmph...that doesn't make any sense at all. I was going through an arduous time. All I had/think at the moment for positive improvement was a bicycle (now stolen) and Global Cycling Network. Recollection of that moment of the comment was due to an exacerbated amount of arrogance, pride, and depression. Cycling and this wonderful channel has paid off long-term. I wish I could hug my younger-self and tell him," you're on the right path, its not easy." Thank you, N C, for your comment whether its intention was positive or negative.
@@Chris-qb8pl That's awesome, dude. Hopefully, you're wearing all the safety gear. Keep it up.The long term benefits to you and to anybody around you is a feeling of well-being is self resonating.
@@EnergyTurtle101 I rather enjoyed your insight overall... but it seemed to have an inconsistency that I sardonically made reference too... and I'm sorry to hear the bike was stolen, but it seems like a right of passage for all bike riders at some point...
btw I was just trying to be honest... so I'm not sure if that is being positive or negative? but I'm positive I wish the best for you and all cyclists...
Went to Gatorskins a couple years ago and never looked back. What a great tire.
I've been using them all winter. Super tyres.
Bloody difficult to get on and off. I had to buy a special tool to get them back on .
I have found that riding on top of the tracks of cars' tires is the cleanest line on the road because all the debris and small sharp pieces are pushed at the edges or middle of the road!
Tried Gatorskins and punctured within 200 miles. Gatorhardshells are the way to go. I've done 12,000 miles on them and still not had a puncture. I'm 90 kilos and ride on some really rough roads in Ayrshire, these tyres are the business.
agreed, Scotland requires a solid tire and unless you're a pro it's unlikely that you'll notice the weight. I know people that haven't had flats in over a year.
I got a thorn puncture within two weeks of riding with Hardshells.... Every tire is garbage
Calum MacDonald got some hard shells today after my gatorskins are ready for retirement.
I just use puncture resistant tubes, anti-puncture tire liners and i put a whole bottle of slime in each one just to make sure
Have not had to change tubes or tires in over 2 years
Hovering around 67-70 kg on 25 mm tyres, I find anything over 620 kPa (90 lb/in^2) to be over-inflated. Lower pressures are so much more comfortable, and you don't give up any rolling resistance unless the surfaces you ride on are perfectly smooth.
I have been using the Continental Gatorskin for a few years on my training bike and I can tell you its an AMAZING tire!!! 2 years and never a puncture, well worth any extra weight and rolling resistance penalty if there is one-- Best training tire I have ever used
Continental Gatorskins are perfect. I use 25mm on my rear wheel and 23mm on the front. 25mm will have the least rolling resistance. I have zero punctures this season on my Gatorskins - 8000 km total. Don't use latex tubes, especially in the mountains as they tend to "melt" when breaking a lot when going downhill. Here in Denmark we have an extreme amount of flint stones on the roads (it's in the sand they put on the roads during winter). So you will have a lot of them in your tires. I remove them twice a week. Some weeks I will remove up to 5 of them. It's insane. I am quite sure that Denmark has the highest puncture rate in the world due to this.
For those who don't mind a fair amount of extra weight for the peace of mind of having no punctures, I have three words: Schwalbe Marathon Plus. I've done 3K miles on mine and no punctures whatsoever as yet. Best puncture proof tyres in the game, I swear by them.
I hope your video editor gets a Christmas bonus. He/she/they deserve(s) it.
I'm glad you mentioned the size of the inner tube. I've had good luck going bigger than smaller e.g. using a 25-28mm tube on a 25mm tire rather than an 18-25 tube. It is a bit of pain to mount but the tubes do seem to be more reliable.
Durano plus's are heavy, but not had one puncture since i've had them. Probably done equal miles with gp4000's and had 3 in the same amount of time. Worth it over winter I think.
well all of these replys support the theory that tyre choice is still a BIG subject for bike riders and we definatly have some very small children with very small willys who will never grow up and who have anger management issues.
One of the article I read about innertubes was saying that, if innertube is not extremely thick, there is almost no effect for the puncture resistant.
If we talk about the road bike tubes, the result was almost the same for 60 and 110gram tubes. After 150 or more, it was effecting the resistance visibly...
(Regular road tubes are around 100 grams and light ones weights around 65gram on scale)
I've been riding mtb. where I live because the roads are horrible but, I switched to a road bike because I want to train more effectively. I've been getting punctures weekly and spending more time replacing tubes than riding. Instead of buying new tires I went with slime tubes and tire liners and no punctures all week. so far, so good.
Continental Ultra Sport 23c road tires, 20,000 km never a flat. Incredible tires. I run 90 and 100 lbs pressure, I weigh 58kgs. I bought these tires online for $13 each. Cant beat that.
Got my first puncture today both tyres were flat. Was 25 miles from home and just paid £70 for 2 Kevlar tyres and 2 new inner tubes. Will keep these in mind for next time
Honestly making sure I don't ride too close to the edge and keeping an eye on the tarmac have been the best ways for me to stop getting punctures. That, and tires with puncture protection. Although I had those to begin with, but beeing a noob I wasn't inflating them enough, which led to two pinch flats and once I ran over a metal band that cut the side of the tire.
I run 28 gatorskins on my bike, the roads were I live are really patchy and not in great condition, I have had them for just over 2 years now on the same bike and have never had a puncture touch wood. the really do role very smoothly and are super grippy on grimy winter roads.
I had never thought of checking the tyre on the inside properly before for sharp objects, I've always done a quick look over, but never used my hands to thoroughly go all the way round. And lo and behold I found two thin pieces of metal that had been wedged in there for god knows how long. (Probably explains my constant punctures) It seems so obvious now that you mentioned it, but it never crossed my mind before!
I've had good luck with gatorskins. I've ran them on different bikes over several years with few or no punctures. They have a lot more rolling resistance than other tires but they're well worth it. I've ridden right through broken glass, metal, etc and no punctures.
There is a problem in my city with people on nights out throwing their beer bottles out the windows of cars and into the bike lanes. It really amazes me when I see broken glass on the side of a remote country road as well as in the heart of the city.
I like Gatorskins for their feel as well as their puncture resistance. I've used Specialized Armadillos before, and never got punctured once in the years I used them, but they ride like solid rock next to a Gatorskin.
I have seen Gators intercept amazing things too. I work in a bike shop in Irvine California, and the one I particularly remember was that one of the bikes I worked on had an inch-long piece of metal jammed into the tread of its rear wheel, and it didn't juncture the tube. When I told the rider, they didn't even know anything wan wrong with it. The tire was still fully inflated, and they rolled out happy.
In my opinion, anything that reduces the number of punctures over the winter can only be a good thing - I'm quite happy to have more rolling resistance and just go around corners slower if I've got a little less grip - anything to stop getting freezing cold and moody whilst fixing a flat on the side of the road!
One winter I used a tyre liner - I didn't get a puncture the whole winter, and in fact the rear tyre was down to the carcass by February when I transferred away from my winter wheels.
Dan
Alexandar Hull-Richter Gatorskins are great. Over the life of ~4000 miles on my set and I've only got two obvious punctures--a shard of glass and a sharp pebble and three questionable tube punctures--one tube failing blowout, and two punctures from poorly wrapped rim tape (no visible evidence of puncture).
Though if you do get a flat, they are a pain to get on and off the rim (at least my wire beads were).
Today, I feel like moving on from Gators though since I'm particularly looking for more grip especially on descents. Living in CA, I'm not very susceptible to wet weather punctures so Conti Grand Prixs here I come.
A couple things. First, while wider tires do have advantages, it's important to get a tire that's appropriate for the wheel and the bike. My Zipps have a 19mm width and my chainstays can only handle a tire of 23mm max--anything more not only weakens the aero benefits of the wheel system but will rub against the chainstay. Second, I'd add that riding in the wet increases the risk of punctures because little sharp rocks adhere to the tire and may work their way in. I use the liners when the temperatures get colder and wetter--I've never had to fix a flat with them. But if you're racing you'll pay at least a 20 watt rolling resistance premium if you use liners or Gatorskins.
Highly recommend the weekly (for a daily rider - probably less important for Sunday specialists) check for embedded flints or glass, particularly if you find yourself riding on any tarmac off-carriageway bike routes shared with pedestrians (I'm looking at you, NCN11).
Running heavy duty butyl tubes with sealant on everything from 700Cx25mm on cross bike to 29inx4in on Fat Bike. For 99% of punctures over the past 20+ years I just removed the offending sharp item, gave the wheel a spin (to spread the sealant) add some air and carry on riding :-) 'heavy duty' tubes + sealant does carry a 'weight penalty' but well worth it for puncture resistance and quick, easy repair while out on a ride.:-)
The wider the tire, the lower the PSI. Also, when you have a tubeless compatible rim like the HED Belgium Plus, running at a high pressure can damage the bead area. When I first rode my HEDs, I pumped the tires up to 120 PSI as was normal for me even though there was a label on the rims stating the maximum PSI was 100. Since I had no further information, I attributed this warning to the company fearing a tire blowing of the rim. However when my tires began to dethread in the bead area, I saw that the rim had actually cut into the tire. Consequently, I reduced the tire pressure to about 80-85 PSI while noticing virtually no increase in rolling resistance.
Wider tires and rims are where it's at.
I rode my Specialized Armadillo tires across the USA without flatting once. Got a total of 8000 miles on them before they started showing signs of wear!
If you run tubes you can always buy ones with removable presta valve bodies and seal those. I have a tube from a cross bike that has lasted about three years. Races and all!
For the last couple years I've run 700x25-32 triple-thick tubes in a 700x23 tire (tubes one size wider). I run between 80-100 psi, usually on the lower end of that. Ever since I started doing this, I have had zero pinch flats and one puncture (thumbtack). The last tube I replaced was due to it being old enough for the valve stem to wear out and actually break. I am 170 pounds, my bike is another 40... I ride fast and hard, every day, in all conditions. I hop curbs, charge drainage gutters, and even ride on dirt trails. Yet, my number of flats is virtually non-existent when compared to that of people running light, thin tubes at high pressure. I literally go through tires faster than I go through tubes. Not only that, but I find the ride to be cushier this way...If you truly want reliability out of your tires, do this. Abandon your obsession with marginal gains and give yourself something worthwhile.
Got a set of gatorskins. Had 6 months and I think I've had 2 rim pinch and one giant thorn that no tyres would of stood a chance against so I'm happy with them. Only issue is that they are so hard to get on!
A very good video. I commute on my bike. I don't enjoy punctures. I don't care if it weighs more or makes the bike less lively. If you are the same, I recommend Schwalbe tires (Marathon Plus). I also recommend ""Mr Tuffy" tire liners. Replace the tires and tubes before they wear out, as older tires tend to get more flats.
Watching this after not finishing my last race due to an impact puncture when I was 6kms away from finish line and was standing second position.
Bloody I lost the podium because of it😥
Gatorskin tires are just awesome! Never had a problem with them on my rides! Contact plus also by continental is just the panzer tank of tires! I haven’t had a problem yet!
I live in an area plagued with "Goat Head weeds" also known as "Puncturevine". The thorns of this vine are hard and sharp and will puncture through shoes. During late summer, the thorny seeds are everywhere and 2 flats per ride are common.
I've used Specialized Armadillos for decades. Very rarely get flats and only then near the end of their life. I get over 10,000 km life on them before I change them (I'm 95 kg, 700cx25) and that's because I start getting flats. Only bugger is changing the tire - they can be difficult to mount (and finding them). Always spend a few seconds after every ride checking for anything embedded in the tires.
About the puncture resistant linings mentioned, I used them for a while but found that they may actually cause flats because of the extra friction created between the tyre, the lining, and the tube. If you use them, make sure to regularly check their condition and replace them if necessary - or better yet - do not use them at all and invest in a decent tyre.
+Andy B. I agree. The friction part is arguable but for the most part you are right. As long as you check your tire, have a good psi in your tubes, etc. You should be just fine
A couple of important points to consider: There is another tradeoff when you use a really wide tire like a 28, and that is aerodynamic drag. That can either be a minimal or major issue, depending on the event. For a front wheel in a time trial, hell no, you don't want a 28mm tire. Similarly, a tire like a gatorskin, weight is again not the only, or even the most significant tradeoff. The rolling resistance of a gatorskin is massive compared to a good race tire. Many watts, like more than 10, being wasted. Not an issue for training, but racing on them is madness.
I used to use continental tour ride on my commute road bike and I never punctured, the thick tread and puncture resistant strip worked wonders for me. I had a nice piece of glass which was about 4mm long, maybe more, get stuck in the tire and didn't puncture, just left a tiny scar on the tire.
To my surprise I've been very happy with some Specialized Espoir (not even Elites) tyres that came with my bike. They are cheaper than other puncture resistant tyres I've used in the past at just £15 and thus far have done nearly 5000km puncture free on some rough roads and occasional unpaved or gravel surfaces too.
I've invested in a replacement set for when the inevitable puncture due to wear pops up but more than happy to do that once every 9 months.
3 punctures yesterday caused by glass. Schoolboy error by me though not checking the outer tyre properly before putting a new tube in. It was good practice though and using washing up liquid as lube when putting the tyre back on really helped
Had my tires below the minimum psi, got a bad pinch flat on an awful road up in the mountains with no spare tires and no phone coverage to call anyone to pick me up. The only way some people learn is by experience. I had to walk almost all the way back up and down the climb. Just pump up your tires. The cheapest Schawlbes can handle the awful sharp gravel and potholes I rode on as long as you're careful, which I was not at all.
patch kits a small pump and spare tubes and tire lifters make for a world of relief
The one thing I'd disagree with here is lightweight inner tubes being false economy - anything that manages to pierce the puncture protection layer of your tyre will very likely also puncture your butyl tube, no matter whether it's a 50g one or a 100g one.
And considering how much money people spend on wheels that are just a few hundred grams lighter, getting another 100g off your wheelset for just a tenner makes buying heavier tubes look much more like false economy.
Pulled a chunk of glass out of my tire. About 1/16 of a inch big.
Thank God for self repairing tubes that are extra thick and heavy duty tires :)
I would get punctures on a regular basis probably because of where I was riding. When I switched tires to Continental 4000S, it made a huge difference over the cheap stock tires that came with the bike.
I just had 4 punctures in 5 days..
i had 5 in 2 days so dont feel too bad but i had a pebble in my tire it was my fault 😑
I just had 5 days in 4 punctures.
I also had one puncture per day but it wat the tire it was in bad condition inside that was damage my inner tube. There were cuts all over my inner tube!
I be doing the same
Me too 😂
I use Schwalbe DURANO on my roadbike for my daily commutes to work and back, 4.000 to 5.000 km/year. There were only a few punctures (never from sharp object, ..only impacts) as theese tires are very well protected. The downside is they are quite heavy and it feels. But other than that very reliable, not much maintenance.
Durano Plus is the correct name
28 mm tyres are brilliant, wish I'd switched to them years ago, you do not lose speed,I average at 20mph
The rolling resistance was lessened by me going 25 - 28. Uphill or Flat. But my hyped up teammates asked me how 28s compare to 25s, I was like: Meh...
I'm new to biking but could I put a 28 puncture protected tire on the back(where I get many more flats) and still keep a 23 more racing tire up front? I weigh 152lb
@@greeneking77 Should be fine. But if you're racing better get your next racing tyres in 28c
thanks
I'm so mad that my bike won't clear more than 25mm.
The other thing to mention is that Gatorskins are much more difficult to get on and off in the event of a puncture. For this reason, I prefer running regular non-puncture protective tyres, like Vittoria Zaffiro Pros.
I swear by Gatorskins, wouldn't fit anything else now. Tubeless just seems a hell of a lot of faffing about and greater investment for me to upgrade. I'm a creature of habit, stick to what I know best. Great video again GCN.
Heyy!! No armpit sweat! Congratulations!!
Many people that get flats every 30 miles or less get them because of bad job at innertube
instalation. When installing innertube or rapidly inflating a tube a
small pinch of the innertube can be created between tire and rim. As you
ride this pinch is distrassed and punctures the innertube. If you
inspect the innertube after puncture and see two holes or distress
points near eachover then you know you messed up durring instalation. Point being watch how to properly install innertubes before trying yourself. P.S. I thought GCN would mention that and put a link ....but I geusse I was wrong.
that slow mo of 23mm really hurts watching
That carbon rim came within milimeters of that sharp rock. It had me on the edge of my seat too.
Photo Therapeut i finally went to 28mm on my road bike this season, what an amazing difference! cant believe it took so long for people (myself included) to realize the huge advantage of fat tires
That was so bad
I found gatorskins are not really that good. Both me and a friend ran them for a while on our daily commutes, and got punctures surprisingly often. He's since switched to a Panasonic ribmo, and I've switched to hutchinson fusion 3s, and both are an order of magnitude better. It surprised me that such a light thin tire would be better than the thick heavy gatorskin, but the proof is in the pudding. I went from weekly flats on Conti ultras (dirt cheap at the LBS) to monthly on the gatorskins, to maybe a couple a year on the hutchinsons.
GCN, it would be neat to have a small segment on foldable vs wire bead tires. Ideally, backed up by a tire manufacturer
I see Simon's using the can of Lynx he got from Dan. Good job!
My guess is why pros choose Nice as a training camp, roads are pressure washed daily. The mountain roads are also very lightly traveled so theres not much debris. Ive put 1000km on my madone 5.2 so far and no punctures yet. Mix of US and French roads. On the other hand on my old bike i hit a razor blade and destroyed the sidewall.
perhaps a safety video with stunt doubles could be a future production - specifically how to survive a puncture / tyre blowout when descending and / or cornering. should you brace for impact? perhaps Dan could use that same crash matt he tried using once when teaching us about clipless pedals - after all, it has never been used ;)
I punctured 2 light inner tubes just by changing the tube and trying to put my extremely tight tire back on.
Changed to normal cheaper tube and it didn't puncture.
In Denmark its common to sprinkle the roads with gravel, that contains 80% utrasharp small flint pieces.
After I started using inlays in the tires (25mm), mountainbike inlays, I've not had a single puncture !
Ive had about 5 Punctures now in the last month,Even replaced the tire to a spare one I had,Yet again,Lasted about a week,It gone flat again,No idea where Im keep on getting punchers all the time,I know what im going to do soon on my Electric bike,I remove both tires and inner tubes,get them freshly replaced,Hopfully that will solve some problems,Ive never know to get so many Punctures,Luckly enough im glad I have a train station near by,Tire went flat again the other week,I had to get the train home
can recommend to cover the inner tire and the inside of the outer tire with talcum powder. it's old style from Holland but proven to avoid impact punctures to almost zero. Also it can dissolve small debris entering the inside of the tire.
we used to do that all the time as kids, and now i know why!
wow, that lynx is really working!!
im 250 lbs was wondering if tubeless tires would benefit more on cause i ride on some bumpy roads
If youve tight rims try Continentals - slightly bigger to go on a larger rim.
Spent a bit of time practicing my bunny hops yesterday after watching the bike handling how-to and landed myself a snakebite puncture - lesson, avoid punctures by not bunny hopping your way down the street!
What is a snakebite puncture?
Continental GP 4000 SII. It's almost impossible to get a puncture with those tires.
I've even ran over broken glass without getting a flat.
Unless you live in Denmark where you have loads and loads of flint, and rain... :-( Even Conti GP 4 seasons are not enough...
flint, flint ,flint
bought them one week ago and already a cut in those brand new tyre. probably a big sharp rock who was attacking from the side
They roll fast but they're far from puncture-proof. I punctured one (with less than 300km on it) by rolling over a bolt that was unluckily positioned with the tip pointing up: cut a ~2mm plug straight through the tire and tube. Had to replace a nearly brand-new tire.
Great video...I ride Gatorskins but i do feel a slight slight extra resistance. When I'm riding in NY. ..they are a necessity. No European car-less roads that see no traffic and are debris free. A year on them and they have taken abuse...I will go from a 23 to a 25 in a month. I believe Continental has a new Gatorskin (I've heard mixed reviews on improvement) You would think by now after countless years...rim taoe wouldnot be necessary. Why isnt a lining standard on all rims? I'm sure they have this and they could invent something that makes rim tape obsolete. Must be a physics thing. Great video again.
This maybe Anecdotal but I’ve had a gator skin on my rear for over a year and never once had a flat and isn’t showing much signs of wear. I have a swarbe on the front and have quite a few punctures. Just about to swap both out for new Gators.
Try the Giant Presta thorn resistant tubes. That is thick on the outer side. Similar idea. Witj Gator skin tires. No punctures
Can you guys talk about co2 cartridges, the types and how they work..
Why not add sealant to the innertube? Wont it give you similar flat protection as in a tubeless tire?
does really 23mm tires puncture a lot? i daily use a vintage road bike with a 20mm tire in front wheel and a 23mm tire in the back wheel. i dont have so much puncture problems but im questioning to buy 25mm tires to avoid maybe future punctures, what should i do?
I cycled 30km today, stopped to go in a shop and came out my tyre was flat. Didn't make sense at first as I havn't had a puncture in years. so going from 100psi to 0 without even riding it made no sense. I thought maybe someone cut the tyre but nope. apparently on hot days you can get a "heat puncture" I guess when your moving the wind keeps it a little cooler. but when you stop in the sun it gets too hot. Not sure if I need to run less PSI on hot days. Just glad it didn't go while I was flying down some steep hills.
My final choice for clincher tyres r Michelin Pro4 and Veloflex Corsa ^ ^
I really like gatorskins especially the hardshells. The hardshells are hard/impossible to find in local stores though
6700km since i picked up cycling, and not a single puncture
No puncture as a kid, riding 50 dollar bikes around the block too
I sure do hope this lasts
Repairing tubeless tires sucks if you have to, and the sealant always dries up eventually, forcing more maintenance and the tire collecting more rubber unless you strip lining of the tire of the dried sealant. It's not worth the amount of extra bike maintenance unless you don't know how to use talcum power or the proper tire widths or air pressure. I've literally used the same tubes for years without failure.
Continental GP 4000 S2.
2400 km , ONE puncture (rear) so far. A big thorn got all the way through the rubber, but you could hardy feel it on the inside.I realized i had a puncture two days after the ride.
Nuff said.
+Webgkil Heh I'm just replying to my own comment just to say that I'm still on the same tires.Got one more puncture on the front, and that's it. I'm at 11k kilometers total atm, the front looks good for probably 11k more. The rear is pretty beat up though and I'll be replacing it only for my peace of mind.
I am really amazed by the performance of these tires :)
my previous set of tyres were a set of michelin pro 4s - 23 front and 25 rear. I got absolutely zero punctures over the course of the year - average 50 miles commute most days and only had to replace them about a month ago because they had worn down enough that you could see through them and would only stay inflated for about 90 minutes, i personally find continental tyres unsafe as they held very little traction for me in the rain when i used them in the past. possiblly a bad batch though as many people like them.
You forgot to mention adding baby powder in the tire to allow the tube to slide and deform independently of the tire. This improves the ride and decreases impact punctures.
I always run my tyres at 100psi reduces punctures hugely ,really makes no difference to average mph
I have mountain bike I go over rough grass i went down a little dip in the grass today bike tire has gone down a little bit I pumped it up just to give a little inflation is that not a good idea plus should I go over bump and grass dip abit slower I went a little fast today I was only testing the suspension and should i stand up if I am going over bumps and small dips in grass I can loosen the front suspension and Tighten it wen i go on roads I lock the suspension
I had the gator skin with puncture resistant tubes, the tire deflects all the goathead thorns before it gets to the tube though.
People are swearing by lots of brands and tyres. I am 96 kilos and riding in Melbourne city on road in bike lanes. Which one i should get a pair of. (A) Schwalbe marathon Plus. (B) Specialized Armadillo (C) Gatorskins (D) Gatorskins Hardshell. I am a serious rider but I'll riding to work 13km each way or using a child trailer attachment.
I use All Condition Armadillos Elite 28s on Shimano RS81 Carbon / Alloy Clincher 35MM
What's the approximate calculation for weight vs. tyre pressure? Only I'll be happy the day the scales tip as high as 45 kilos which is a little far out of the range you mentioned
That was a very thoughtful video. Thank you
You forget to say that the heavy tube is only needed on rear wheel to stop snake bite if you run 28 or less and are heavy person. I also got the continental vectran tyres. Rode through broken glass many times never a puncture im 110kg. Vectran is light and only available in continental. Cant be punctured by needle. But had many snake bites on rear wheel. Until i put heavy butyl tube on the back. I swear by vectran for buletproof ride on fast lite tyres
ever switching to schwable durano plus on my current set i Have about 3-4 thousand miles no flats, in the past I used conti gatorskins I would be getting flats all the time, never going back to conti again
What if semi slick tires are used on endurance geometry road bikes? Just traction or puncture resistance improves? Penalty of 2 mph?
I use slime inner tubes there very good
are there any good cheap alternatives to Gatorskins? I myself use them, and love them, but a friend of mine has been getting flats left and right, but doesn't really have the money to spend $120+ on a set of tires.
What you think of Foss explosion proof inner tubes?
My bike's wheel comes with a schrader type valve, is it possible to do a tubeless conversion using this wheel rim?
Most of the tubeless valves are presta type right? is it possible to install presta type valve or does schrader type valve exist for tubeless system?
it will be great if you could give me some information regarding this.
Wonderful tips, I should have seen this sooner !
My solution is to use light inner tubes, and fill them with 40ml of tubeless sealant. Instantly fixes small punctures!
Doesn't that clog your valves?
@@johnhanley9946Surprisingly no! But if you think about it, tubeless uses the same valves, so it kinda makes sense that it also works :)
@@marcelk6514 The thing is, when I was using Slime tubes, which have a sealant inside them, they always became useless after a few months, because the valves would clog.
Maybe the sealant is different.
@@johnhanley9946 yeah, that's possible. My wheels have been running for about a year now, no issues at all. I use Stan's sealant, which works quite well!
I had four punctures on my last big charity ride of 120 miles two pinch, one due to avoiding a dog and running over huge pothole, and two nails/tacks ones and ruined my rider I really wish I could afford the tubeless route. Next upgrade!!
YOU'RE TROLLING SAYING THAT CONTINENTAL ARE CRAP YOU ANUSBREATH
actually m8 i'm never gonna buy continental again you're very accurate review saying that they ""SUCK''......has put me offf them for life and therefore MUST be a rubbish brand.
YOU ARE JUST ONE SEPTICSCOTUM IMO
***** i bought the Continental grand Prix 4 seasons in Hope that they would Last... One week later I glanced of a pepple and sliced the carcass. 40€ down the drain...
***** i'm with vaxbuster continental are very good....you're doing it wrong u because u are a novice and just tyrying 2 be cool. me and vaxbuster are much more experienced. THE END MAGKLOUD X