Thanks for going through this exercise for us. I have a motor and VFD just to do the same to my Powermatic wood bandsaw so I can cut mild steel. I think that was a success!
I recently converted my Delta 14" saw to metal cutting (two-step v-belt reduction) with a 3-phase motor and VFD. Excellent results, BTW. Here's a tip for you. Set the VFD at 50Hz and measure the blade speed. Enter that number as your P21 parameter. (Normally you would enter motor RPM or final RPM @ 50Hz.) Then go to P62 and enter parameter of 2. Now the VFD will display blade speed directly, rather than output frequency.
Nice tip, I'll have to go back an have a look at my unit. It would only work on one pulley size though. I stll use different sheave positions to widen my speed ratings from very low to a pretty nice aluminum clip. But or my most commonly used sheave for steel that would be welcome. Thanks. Don
I’ve just bought the same one. Wired it up to test but haven’t really used it yet. The only thing I don’t like is the wiring inputs. There is no provision for securing the cables. I think I’ll mount it on plywood and secure both input and output cables with clamps. Also, there is only one earth connection, very awkward to connect earth to motor from vfd.
Thanks Sandi... Hope it works well for you. I put a Teco Westinghouse on my mill a number of years back. It really makes a difference, especially with belt switching. I hardly ever change pulleys now.
I’ve got a couple of expensive VFDs, and three inexpensive models. All work. I’ve got one that’s the same as this one. It’s actually built very well. It’s got a large, well designed, heat sink. Tapping the plastic cover is about as useful in telling you how well it’s built, as kicking the tires on a car. But the case is fine. My $2,000 (in 2002) Fuji industrial model for my lathe, has a case that’s no thicker. Neither is that on my Schneider Electric model, for $950. The problem using VFDs is that while many programming instructions and factory settings are the same, enough are different so that I can’t just go from one to the other without thinking about it. Some have the controls set to local, and some to remote. Some use up arrows for moving numbers up, and some down. Some of these differences can be very confusing for new users, and some seem to defy common sense. And for last, I always buy inverter ready motors for VFDs. While it won’t matter if it’s on a drill press, because of the short on times, and you keep the frequencies to 45-60. But move out of that range on a machine with a continuous use, such as that bandsaw, a mill or lathe, and you can get into trouble., as the motor will begin to overheat, and have other problems. I imagine that for home use it likely won’t be a problem, but it’s something to keep in mind, particularly if the machine is under heavy load. Then, filling all of the motor parameters into the VFD becomes important, as does setting it for that particular use, if the VFD allows. Just since you mentioned it, wood is usually cut between 3,000-4,000 SFM. But then, you use a woodcutting blade as well. I can’t bother, so I use the 10/14 tooth blade for most everything.
Thanks for the review. A couple of cautions -- 1. ALWAYS clamp or bolt down a motor under test. If something goes wrong, it can jump off the table -- at you. 2. Over-rev-ing older motors (above 60 Hertz, as it were) can cause early bearing failure. If you need higher final speeds of the overall equipment, consider using different pulley sizes.
Hey Phil. May not have caught it but the mounting plate was wedged into the welding tables cut out. Also with VFDs I always ramp up the speed vs just flat on off. Even that 2 seconds or so of ramping really tames a motor down on start up . Yes, older motors have to be handled more carefully. This motor has no issues with a small OD. Thanks for watching. Don
All of the drives from 3 to 250 HP that I installed & troubleshoot would have factory parameter set so on a 480 volt motor at 25% of full speed would have 15 hertz output. 50% of full speed would have 30 Hertz. ( that us if you have the normal 60 Hertz from Ultility company ). If the cheap VFD does not have built in quick blow fuses I would install them in the input side of drives. I always ordered drives with fuses and a disconnect. Nice thing about drives that if you have a vibration problem near full speed say on a air handler fan you can program the maximum speed down 5 to 10 Hertz until fan is balanced properly.
Interesting video, the saw will become much more versatile with the VFD and you'll need to change belt setting less often. From the video seems that the saw frame flexes a little bit and looks a periodic thing so there could be something bent. Also the right bearing on the upper blade guide was not tightened.
Hi Luca. I can't really decipher any flex or bends in the frame while using it in real time. The camera may be exaggerating movement of the entire saw as it was not sitting even or adjusted to the floor.. its rocking while the camera is stationary. I also caught the loose bearing during edit. This video was shot a few weeks back and I've spent more time with the saw since. Every little touch up I do makes it that much better.. Got four more to get through, this was my first mock up saw.
That's a good question The Craftsman is a bit smaller dimensionally and runs an 18tpi blade, while this one runs a 14 tpi. The Craftsman also uses a 1/2 hp motor vs a 1hp here. Its like choosing which finger to cut off... I think if it boiled down to it, the Craftsman takes up less space and can handle 95% of what I need to cut. So ide probably say the Craftsman would be my keeper. But dang, it is nice to have that immediate wood cutting option on the Delta along with the VFD. But it does command a lot more space which is like gold in my garage. Don
I bought a vfd for a regenerative blower I have but it won't work because the blower motor is wired in a wye configuration. These cheap vfds have to be used with delta wired motors.
Great video, made programing much easier. A question though, I keep getting error 1 overload/short circuit before motor even spins. Any ideas? The wiring looks fine and it's the right size vfd for the motor.
Thanks, You may just want to go back and double check your parameter settings. Sometimes you may think you hit data but just wet onto the next setting without saving. Also be real careful you don't have any stray single strands touching the neighboring wire. Neutral to ground would be the most common without blowing a CB and causing an error code. That's where Ide start anyway. Don
Yes sir I got vfd just like your from Ebay ,I watching your video about programming but having problem on P0018 wanted to change to 60htz but it won't do anything it show 400.0 every times.what's you think the problem? Thank you.english not my first language.
That's kind of odd. I hadn't run into hat before. You may want to use a parameter P77 reset and put everything back to default and start your programming over. Thats about all I can offer from here. Good Luck Don
Hi Don. Thanks for this video. I own a bench lathe (motor: three-phase, 1.1kw and 1400rpm) and a VFD AT-1 model. I would like to install a brake resistor, but I don't know if in this VFD I can install a brake resistor and what is the proper value. Please, could you help me? Thanks again.
Hi there Jose. If you are using the AT1 rated at 1 HP, like the one I use in the video, your motor will over work the inverter. Its only rated for 1HP or .75kw. If you have a matched inverter to motor (1.5 hp) then you're good. With that, I wonder why you are concerned with a braking resistor? Are you turning much higher speeds most of the time ie.. over frequency to 90HZ? or running heavy parts that overpower your lathe and cause it run the motor down over a long time? Or do you need immediate stop? P13 and P14 on your parameters. Most of these smaller inverter / motors don't have these issues. The only piece of equipment that I have braking errors pop up on is my mill when I run it full out (90hz) on its top belt setting for max speed in the dead of summer. If ive been using it, it will pop a code but will reset. TO avert that I drop it back down to 60HZ before stopping it. I also don't use excessive run down times, usually around 1.5 to 2.5 seconds. The only equipment I use braking resistors on are larger pieces like my Monarch that uses a 7.5 HP motor. If you really feel you need a braking resistor, I believe the outputs are SP1 and SP 2 on the output side of the inverter. I'm not positive about that so I emailed the company to clarify. Still no answer. I'll let you know if they get back to me. If I were you, Ide just hook up my inverter and set parameter P13 for 2.5. Leave P14 alone. If it doesn't work for you and you pop error codes, let me know. There is a method for hooking up braking resistors in line, but its a bit too complicated to write out here. Don
Great review thanks, I have a question, my mains is 230v can a VFD run a 110v fan directly or will I still need to use the transformer that came with my fan? Also my fan motor is single phase incase that would make any difference?
Question for the peanut gallery, can I put a receiving (female) plug on the output side of the VFD and a male plug on input side? I'm going to be using it for my 2x72, but I also want to use it for my hydraulic press which is what its connected to now. (same HP, both 3 phase 220)
How can you tell by looking at a AC motor if it's an 'asynchronous/induction' or a 'synchronous' motor? For example, I've got a small, low-speed, 3-phase (400hz) 110v ac motor for an air-compressor. The rating on the label doesn't say much except that it's input power is 1.6A RMS Max. Reason I ask is that I'm also looking for a portable power-supply for it and found a $75 "HKS VFD 0.75KW 1HP 110V 1 Phase Input 3 Phase 0-400HZ Output 10A" but it says in bold letters, "for ASYNCHRONOUS motors ONLY!" It also says it uses a 5V or 10V PWM control frequency. So I'm confused if this will work, or is there something better suited/cheaper like Vevor? All I need is to spin the motor, one direction, at a constant/default speed (no "PWM").. and turn it on/off from the panel (RS485 would be nice but not necessary).
It may be difficult to tell the difference between a synchronous and asynchronous motor just by looking at them externally, as their physical appearance can be quite similar. Both types of motors may have a similar shape, size, and construction, and may have similar electrical connections and components. However, there may be some external differences that can give a clue to the type of motor. For example, synchronous motors may have a DC power source for the field winding or a small exciter motor to generate the magnetic field, whereas asynchronous motors do not require such a power source. Additionally, synchronous motors may have a visible rotating shaft or a gear train to maintain the constant speed, while asynchronous motors may have a simpler shaft design. With that being said, what are you going to use this for? Thats a pretty low HP motor, something a little less than 1/4 hp. I find motors, both single and 3 phase at the flea market all day and night for next to nothing. Someone once said that a used motor is about 10 dollars to a HP, which is about what Ive been finding. Let m know if that help. Don Regenerate response
I just received a '220V VFD 1.5KW 2.2KW 4KW Single phase to 3 Phase, 2hp-3hp inverter Frequency Converter Frequency Drive Spindle Speed Control' for US $38.90 + Shipping: US $50.35 to Peru from aliexpress. I'm going to build the 'Gen 2 72 x 2" Grinder' by Jeremy Schmidt, with a 1.5-2 Hp motor.
So i dont understand, you need to rewire the motor to 230v from 415v otherwise the vfd wont work on it? If the motor doesn't have that option, then is it to be trashed and replaced with single phase motor, no need for vfd?
Hey Jim. I don't quite follow. If your VFD has 230V output, the motor needs to be a 230V motor. Some VFDs step up. I have a 120 Input VFD that steps up to 230 Volts for example. You can run single phase in and its converted to three phase out. I understand that there are some single phase motors that can be run off a VFD. It seems like a waste if its true. If your dealing with a 415V motor then it needs a matched VFD.
Its still kicking. I use it pretty regular with no issues. Its just become that other part that just makes things run without much thought. Thanks for asking. Don
@@donkintz281 Thanks Don. At a bit of a lul in production right now with the heat coming up. Got a lot of projects back burnered and only really getting time for actual work repairs to tape. Thanks for watchin. Don
THANK YOU: I was just trying to figure out my new cheap e-bay VFD and you saved the day. I also purchased 2 VFd's now worry about the 2nd one. I did notice your sanitary blade guide is set too deep causing rubbing on the teeth of the blade and will quickly rub the kerf off.
I have 15 hp electric motor three phase and in the building I only have single phase. can you recommend what converter I can buy and how much I’m looking to spend
WOW, you are right on the edge there. 15 HP is gonna need a full 50 amps off a 220 circuit. If you have 250 it'll be closer to 45. So you'll need a 15 HP VFD. I Like the Huanyang GT series, about 500 bucks for a 15 HP model. Converts single to 3 phase, Very nice and easy to use and lots of features for a home shop guy. Make sure to get a braking resistor for it. If you're using that motor daily for work, I like the Hitachi VFD's, but you better be bankrolled.
@@donsengine3158 thanks for responding back to me. I have a question I have 36 V Toyota forklift would like to know if this converter to three phase will be good for the charger.
No, as there is no automatic balance or float function to keep the battery from boiling out. Or do you mean to run a charger? If that's the case it could probably be done, but youde have to maintain the setting at 60Hz. Never tried it. Let me know how it goes. Don @@Ucrane346
Just buy three identical 12v chargers. One charges the first six cells, the second charger charges the second six cells, and the third charger is for the last six cells.
You wired the input to the drive and said 250vac, 230v is standard for a house in the US so with that said, there is no neutral. Two phases of 120vac will provide 230v single phase power although no neutral just a ground Why are you speaking about a neutral? 5:24
What motor are you running??? Do you have parameters set properly. Also try going bac to factory setting and resetting if you find everything else properly set up and continues. Don
@donsengine3158 I've found it was working perfectly and kicked out because the load on the motor was too high. I'll have to get a higher hp motor to do the work.
I do hope you realize that translations from English to Chinese are not any better - but there are not very many products made in English-speaking countries that are sold in China it's because English- speaking countries prefer to have their products produced in China they are cheaper - it is still an option cheaper, bad manuals, or expensive and maybe better manuals because they are then mostly made in India. Or we could just learn Chinese and read the original.
Electronics have come a long way and China is doing a much, much better job in manufacturing - Many overpriced items like early VFD’s are simply extinct. Lenze makes great stuff, but not even remotely worth the price anymore and probably will be out of business soon.
Don, by the time I post this you've had your VFD +8 months by now. The model I purchased was also inexpensive but has thus far been a blessing. I totally agree that the VFD is one of the most valuable upgrades one can make. The mere fact that it puts a 3 Phase motor to work in my shop is a giant leap forward. My VFD is rated at 1.5KW. it's a Soyanpower model SVD-E, which means nothing in today's huge China market. It's probably marketed under a variety of names and models. My user manual says that my model includes an upgrade that protects the Input Diode-Capacitor Bus from enormous inrush currents at mains turn on that past models were prone to. That said my user manual still stresses repeatedly the dangers of repeated turn on's and off's. They actually wanted the user to wait 2 hours after mains turn off before reconnecting! EEEEK! My guess is that the text in the manual was never amended with the Soft Start upgrade. I call it Soft Start but the industry name for it is "Pre-Charge Current Limiting". It is explained in this VFD video by a different manufacturer. ruclips.net/video/HayryySX_po/видео.html Since my model didn't include a schematic I wasn't taking any chances and built my own external limiter that connects between my 240V mains and the VFD 240V input terminals. Now, at worst case I have double Inrush Current protection!😉 The second thing I did was mount an auxiliary fan on the motor's fan bell. I did this is because the motor's integral fan is connected to the motor's armature. When you slow a motor down to low rpm that fan isn't moving any air! Hence, the motor will overheat under load. The small box fan I chose is a 120V model and is not supplied by the VFD. At the moment it runs at full rpm whenever the motor is running. I will be modifying that logic to keep the fan running after the motor has stopped until a thermostat tells the fan to shut off when the motor has cooled off. Don, I'm guessing that you and I are a short drive from each other. We will break beer together one day soon. I know you drink beer because you have the classic beer physique much like mine. Mine is just much older! Wakodahatchee Chris
Ha ha.. pretty funny. Too many years in Germany. You get used to beer flowing like water there. Cheaper than soda for sure. I don't blame you for adding a fan. Cheap insurance. Don
Life long sparky and I never purchase or use any electrical, safety & test equipment or LED'S made in lying cheating lack of quality control communist china. Had way too many defects & short time life span with garbage from cheating china. My cheap boss purchased the cheapest 5 HP VFD that china loving WW Grainger stocked. He spent over 6 hours trying to program the POS. even made several phone calls to their worthless tech support. He returned it for a made in good old USA drive and had it programmed in just a few minutes. Worked on hundreds of great Danfoss VLT & FC drives and horrible tech support ABB VFD'S. We have a great Danfoss tech that only charges around $200 to $225 to do a start up. This extends the free parts & labor to three years.
Eh… I bought the same VFD as you… cheap. Man they work great! Can’t complain… in fact… I have a hitachi… expensive one… guess what… to get it to power up I gotta tap it with a tool and then it comes to life… sooooo… you sayin these are crap….. so far my “quality “ one is the crap one.
I've had no problems with mine either. I don't own a Hitachi, but we have a few older ones at work that are still gettin to business every day. But really, the price can't be beat for you what you get with these. Don
I want to build a test bench for a diesel VE type injection pump off a 1HZ Toyota coaster engine. Not sure the total RMP i will need think about 2200RMP and or maybe 3600RPM max for a short while. Can someone in the know run over these numbers and tell me if this VFD will match up to my motor. I'm totally new at this stuff first go at doing anything wow big learning experience. I will post vids on my channel eventually when i get it all set up. Thanks for any help!! Motor Specs: 1 HP, 0.75kW, 50 HZ, 1405 RMP, INS F, AMB 45 o Celcius, CONT. RATING, TYPE AEEB-NECC, 240V, 3.24A, TRIANGLE SYMBOL NEXT TO THIS CONFIGURATION. 415V, 1.87A, THREE PRONGED AIRPLANE PROPELLER SYMBOL NEXT THIS RATINGS!! Will my VFD with these below specs suit? Inpute Frequency 45-65 Hz Output Frequency 0.1-400 Hz Input Voltage AC 200-260V Output Voltage AC 220V Humidity 10-95% Relative Humidity (without dew) Control Mode SPWM Input Phase 1 or 3 Phase Output Phase 3 Phase Vibration 0.4 G Horsepower 2 HP Input Current 7.5 A Output Current 10 A Thank you
You shouldn't have an issue with it, but be sure to set your max frequency down to around 80Hz or you'll have a mess. Also your start up/Min on a 50Hz motor will want o be around 30Hz. Any lower and the drop off will kill it. Don
Thanks for going through this exercise for us. I have a motor and VFD just to do the same to my Powermatic wood bandsaw so I can cut mild steel. I think that was a success!
Great.. glad to hear it Lucas... Don
you did very well explaining, nobody did it, man, thank you.
Thanks, and thanks for watchin. Don
I recently converted my Delta 14" saw to metal cutting (two-step v-belt reduction) with a 3-phase motor and VFD. Excellent results, BTW. Here's a tip for you. Set the VFD at 50Hz and measure the blade speed. Enter that number as your P21 parameter. (Normally you would enter motor RPM or final RPM @ 50Hz.) Then go to P62 and enter parameter of 2. Now the VFD will display blade speed directly, rather than output frequency.
Nice tip, I'll have to go back an have a look at my unit. It would only work on one pulley size though. I stll use different sheave positions to widen my speed ratings from very low to a pretty nice aluminum clip. But or my most commonly used sheave for steel that would be welcome. Thanks. Don
Thanks, ive just got my VFD working after having it for months!
Nice... 👍
Excellent video , explained very well just got one from Amazon a few minutes ago and this video will help me a lot , thanks.
Thanks. Hope it was an easy setup for you. Don
Good info. Helped to clear things out about programing. Cheers from North Port, Fl.
Glad it helped.. Don
Great info don, great video, keep'um coming..
We'll be tryin.. Thanx. Don
Thank you Don. Excellent tutorial.
I’ve just bought the same one. Wired it up to test but haven’t really used it yet. The only thing I don’t like is the wiring inputs. There is no provision for securing the cables. I think I’ll mount it on plywood and secure both input and output cables with clamps. Also, there is only one earth connection, very awkward to connect earth to motor from vfd.
Good point. I use zip ties ono something close by to keep them form pulling. Could probably get fancier though/ Don
Hey Don,
Just purchased on for my Bridgeport Mill, have to hook it up..... thanks for the info keep up the good work
Thanks Sandi... Hope it works well for you. I put a Teco Westinghouse on my mill a number of years back. It really makes a difference, especially with belt switching. I hardly ever change pulleys now.
Don’t go past 60Hz, or below 30. A mill is hard on motors, and assuming that the motor isn’t designed to be run at different frequencies.
I’ve got a couple of expensive VFDs, and three inexpensive models. All work. I’ve got one that’s the same as this one. It’s actually built very well. It’s got a large, well designed, heat sink. Tapping the plastic cover is about as useful in telling you how well it’s built, as kicking the tires on a car. But the case is fine. My $2,000 (in 2002) Fuji industrial model for my lathe, has a case that’s no thicker. Neither is that on my Schneider Electric model, for $950.
The problem using VFDs is that while many programming instructions and factory settings are the same, enough are different so that I can’t just go from one to the other without thinking about it. Some have the controls set to local, and some to remote. Some use up arrows for moving numbers up, and some down. Some of these differences can be very confusing for new users, and some seem to defy common sense.
And for last, I always buy inverter ready motors for VFDs. While it won’t matter if it’s on a drill press, because of the short on times, and you keep the frequencies to 45-60. But move out of that range on a machine with a continuous use, such as that bandsaw, a mill or lathe, and you can get into trouble., as the motor will begin to overheat, and have other problems. I imagine that for home use it likely won’t be a problem, but it’s something to keep in mind, particularly if the machine is under heavy load. Then, filling all of the motor parameters into the VFD becomes important, as does setting it for that particular use, if the VFD allows.
Just since you mentioned it, wood is usually cut between 3,000-4,000 SFM. But then, you use a woodcutting blade as well. I can’t bother, so I use the 10/14 tooth blade for most everything.
Yeah, I never get why people tap on a basically cosmetic feature to judge the quality of the something. Appearance is everything, I guess.
@ because many people don’t understand it. So somehow, they think that tapping on a decorative plastic case is important.
I like the idea of see through guards.
Ya, mee too. Hoping to score some free plexi from one of these stores getting rid of the covid shields.
Next day, Got it going thanks for your help.
Thks for the video im very new to this trying to work out for my drill press thks again
@23:54 Wood is cut at 5000 surface feet per minute.
Thanks for the review. A couple of cautions -- 1. ALWAYS clamp or bolt down a motor under test. If something goes wrong, it can jump off the table -- at you. 2. Over-rev-ing older motors (above 60 Hertz, as it were) can cause early bearing failure. If you need higher final speeds of the overall equipment, consider using different pulley sizes.
Hey Phil. May not have caught it but the mounting plate was wedged into the welding tables cut out. Also with VFDs I always ramp up the speed vs just flat on off. Even that 2 seconds or so of ramping really tames a motor down on start up . Yes, older motors have to be handled more carefully. This motor has no issues with a small OD. Thanks for watching. Don
Thanks for the video. The plate around the blade is aluminum for when it shifts and touches the blade teeth.
Thanks. And thanks for watchin... Don
morning Don, Paul here in Florida, this should be intresting....cheers from Orlando, Paul
Thanx Paul...
All of the drives from 3 to 250 HP that I installed & troubleshoot would have factory parameter set so on a 480 volt motor at 25% of full speed would have 15 hertz output. 50% of full speed would have 30 Hertz. ( that us if you have the normal 60 Hertz from Ultility company ). If the cheap VFD does not have built in quick blow fuses I would install them in the input side of drives. I always ordered drives with fuses and a disconnect. Nice thing about drives that if you have a vibration problem near full speed say on a air handler fan you can program the maximum speed down 5 to 10 Hertz until fan is balanced properly.
some vfd's can be programed to ramp up or down and even skip a certain frequency where the motor has a resonance
Nice work 👍
Interesting video, the saw will become much more versatile with the VFD and you'll need to change belt setting less often. From the video seems that the saw frame flexes a little bit and looks a periodic thing so there could be something bent. Also the right bearing on the upper blade guide was not tightened.
Hi Luca. I can't really decipher any flex or bends in the frame while using it in real time. The camera may be exaggerating movement of the entire saw as it was not sitting even or adjusted to the floor.. its rocking while the camera is stationary. I also caught the loose bearing during edit. This video was shot a few weeks back and I've spent more time with the saw since. Every little touch up I do makes it that much better.. Got four more to get through, this was my first mock up saw.
That worked great, great video!
Thanx Tom Gunn....
Hi, Thanks for the video, what about P26? Change from 50 to 60? Thanks
great video Don,
what is the adjustment to make to have a maximum of torque at low speed without generating whistles and to preserve my engine?
Morning Don , if you were just cutting steel which saw would you prefer this one or the stater motor gear reduction one ?
That's a good question The Craftsman is a bit smaller dimensionally and runs an 18tpi blade, while this one runs a 14 tpi. The Craftsman also uses a 1/2 hp motor vs a 1hp here. Its like choosing which finger to cut off... I think if it boiled down to it, the Craftsman takes up less space and can handle 95% of what I need to cut. So ide probably say the Craftsman would be my keeper. But dang, it is nice to have that immediate wood cutting option on the Delta along with the VFD. But it does command a lot more space which is like gold in my garage. Don
So after 2 years of running that motor with that vfd, is it still working?
I bought a vfd for a regenerative blower I have but it won't work because the blower motor is wired in a wye configuration. These cheap vfds have to be used with delta wired motors.
Great video, made programing much easier. A question though, I keep getting error 1 overload/short circuit before motor even spins. Any ideas? The wiring looks fine and it's the right size vfd for the motor.
Thanks, You may just want to go back and double check your parameter settings. Sometimes you may think you hit data but just wet onto the next setting without saving. Also be real careful you don't have any stray single strands touching the neighboring wire. Neutral to ground would be the most common without blowing a CB and causing an error code. That's where Ide start anyway. Don
Yes sir I got vfd just like your from Ebay ,I watching your video about programming but having problem on P0018 wanted to change to 60htz but it won't do anything it show 400.0 every times.what's you think the problem? Thank you.english not my first language.
That's kind of odd. I hadn't run into hat before. You may want to use a parameter P77 reset and put everything back to default and start your programming over. Thats about all I can offer from here. Good Luck Don
Hi Don. Thanks for this video. I own a bench lathe (motor: three-phase, 1.1kw and 1400rpm) and a VFD AT-1 model. I would like to install a brake resistor, but I don't know if in this VFD I can install a brake resistor and what is the proper value. Please, could you help me? Thanks again.
Hi there Jose. If you are using the AT1 rated at 1 HP, like the one I use in the video, your motor will over work the inverter. Its only rated for 1HP or .75kw. If you have a matched inverter to motor (1.5 hp) then you're good. With that, I wonder why you are concerned with a braking resistor? Are you turning much higher speeds most of the time ie.. over frequency to 90HZ? or running heavy parts that overpower your lathe and cause it run the motor down over a long time? Or do you need immediate stop? P13 and P14 on your parameters. Most of these smaller inverter / motors don't have these issues. The only piece of equipment that I have braking errors pop up on is my mill when I run it full out (90hz) on its top belt setting for max speed in the dead of summer. If ive been using it, it will pop a code but will reset. TO avert that I drop it back down to 60HZ before stopping it. I also don't use excessive run down times, usually around 1.5 to 2.5 seconds. The only equipment I use braking resistors on are larger pieces like my Monarch that uses a 7.5 HP motor. If you really feel you need a braking resistor, I believe the outputs are SP1 and SP 2 on the output side of the inverter. I'm not positive about that so I emailed the company to clarify. Still no answer. I'll let you know if they get back to me. If I were you, Ide just hook up my inverter and set parameter P13 for 2.5. Leave P14 alone. If it doesn't work for you and you pop error codes, let me know. There is a method for hooking up braking resistors in line, but its a bit too complicated to write out here. Don
Have you ever used an ATO brand vfd on anything?
Hi Russ. No sorry I haven't. Other than the Huan Yang's and these, most of my experience has been with Hitachi, Fuji and Teco brand VFDs. Don
Great review thanks, I have a question, my mains is 230v can a VFD run a 110v fan directly or will I still need to use the transformer that came with my fan?
Also my fan motor is single phase incase that would make any difference?
A VFD is for a three phase motor application. So, no, you can't use it with a single phase motor.
Question for the peanut gallery, can I put a receiving (female) plug on the output side of the VFD and a male plug on input side? I'm going to be using it for my 2x72, but I also want to use it for my hydraulic press which is what its connected to now. (same HP, both 3 phase 220)
I don't see why not, Current doesn't really care about the connector type, just a pathway.
How can you tell by looking at a AC motor if it's an 'asynchronous/induction' or a 'synchronous' motor? For example, I've got a small, low-speed, 3-phase (400hz) 110v ac motor for an air-compressor. The rating on the label doesn't say much except that it's input power is 1.6A RMS Max.
Reason I ask is that I'm also looking for a portable power-supply for it and found a $75
"HKS VFD 0.75KW 1HP 110V 1 Phase Input 3 Phase 0-400HZ Output 10A"
but it says in bold letters, "for ASYNCHRONOUS motors ONLY!"
It also says it uses a 5V or 10V PWM control frequency.
So I'm confused if this will work, or is there something better suited/cheaper like Vevor? All I need is to spin the motor, one direction, at a constant/default speed (no "PWM").. and turn it on/off from the panel (RS485 would be nice but not necessary).
It may be difficult to tell the difference between a synchronous and asynchronous motor just by looking at them externally, as their physical appearance can be quite similar. Both types of motors may have a similar shape, size, and construction, and may have similar electrical connections and components.
However, there may be some external differences that can give a clue to the type of motor. For example, synchronous motors may have a DC power source for the field winding or a small exciter motor to generate the magnetic field, whereas asynchronous motors do not require such a power source. Additionally, synchronous motors may have a visible rotating shaft or a gear train to maintain the constant speed, while asynchronous motors may have a simpler shaft design.
With that being said, what are you going to use this for? Thats a pretty low HP motor, something a little less than 1/4 hp. I find motors, both single and 3 phase at the flea market all day and night for next to nothing. Someone once said that a used motor is about 10 dollars to a HP, which is about what Ive been finding. Let m know if that help. Don
Regenerate response
I just received a '220V VFD 1.5KW 2.2KW 4KW Single phase to 3 Phase, 2hp-3hp inverter Frequency Converter Frequency Drive Spindle Speed Control' for US $38.90 + Shipping: US $50.35 to Peru from aliexpress. I'm going to build the 'Gen 2 72 x 2" Grinder' by Jeremy Schmidt, with a 1.5-2 Hp motor.
That is an amazing price for that size VFD.. Good luck with the project. Don
So i dont understand, you need to rewire the motor to 230v from 415v otherwise the vfd wont work on it? If the motor doesn't have that option, then is it to be trashed and replaced with single phase motor, no need for vfd?
Hey Jim. I don't quite follow. If your VFD has 230V output, the motor needs to be a 230V motor. Some VFDs step up. I have a 120 Input VFD that steps up to 230 Volts for example. You can run single phase in and its converted to three phase out. I understand that there are some single phase motors that can be run off a VFD. It seems like a waste if its true. If your dealing with a 415V motor then it needs a matched VFD.
How is the vfd holding up a yr later?
Its still kicking. I use it pretty regular with no issues. Its just become that other part that just makes things run without much thought. Thanks for asking. Don
@Don's Engine thanks for your reply I just found your channel. Great video thanks and I did subscribe and 👍
@@donkintz281 Thanks Don. At a bit of a lul in production right now with the heat coming up. Got a lot of projects back burnered and only really getting time for actual work repairs to tape. Thanks for watchin. Don
THANK YOU: I was just trying to figure out my new cheap e-bay VFD and you saved the day. I also purchased 2 VFd's now worry about the 2nd one. I did notice your sanitary blade guide is set too deep causing rubbing on the teeth of the blade and will quickly rub the kerf off.
Great, Glad it could help. Thanks for watchin.. Don
I have 15 hp electric motor three phase and in the building I only have single phase. can you recommend what converter I can buy and how much I’m looking to spend
WOW, you are right on the edge there. 15 HP is gonna need a full 50 amps off a 220 circuit. If you have 250 it'll be closer to 45. So you'll need a 15 HP VFD. I Like the Huanyang GT series, about 500 bucks for a 15 HP model. Converts single to 3 phase, Very nice and easy to use and lots of features for a home shop guy. Make sure to get a braking resistor for it. If you're using that motor daily for work, I like the Hitachi VFD's, but you better be bankrolled.
@@donsengine3158 thanks for responding back to me. I have a question I have 36 V Toyota forklift would like to know if this converter to three phase will be good for the charger.
No, as there is no automatic balance or float function to keep the battery from boiling out. Or do you mean to run a charger? If that's the case it could probably be done, but youde have to maintain the setting at 60Hz. Never tried it. Let me know how it goes. Don @@Ucrane346
@@donsengine3158 yes I was asking if I can run 36 V forklift charger on this converter
Just buy three identical 12v chargers. One charges the first six cells, the second charger charges the second six cells, and the third charger is for the last six cells.
If you plug it out you need to start programming again?
No, once its set, its good
You wired the input to the drive and said 250vac, 230v is standard for a house in the US so with that said, there is no neutral.
Two phases of 120vac will provide 230v single phase power although no neutral just a ground
Why are you speaking about a neutral?
5:24
Is he running at 120v, one hot one neutral
@@MarbleStoneShop No, he said 250vac
you need to upsize your VFDs if you are going from single phase to 3 phase
Bought this same one. It kicks out at 40hz
What motor are you running??? Do you have parameters set properly. Also try going bac to factory setting and resetting if you find everything else properly set up and continues. Don
@donsengine3158 I've found it was working perfectly and kicked out because the load on the motor was too high. I'll have to get a higher hp motor to do the work.
17:00
Prices?
I think they were around 60 bucks when I got them... The cheapest ones I could find.
Salvatore Manors
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I do hope you realize that translations from English to Chinese are not any better - but there are not very many products made in English-speaking countries that are sold in China it's because English- speaking countries prefer to have their products produced in China they are cheaper - it is still an option cheaper, bad manuals, or expensive and maybe better manuals because they are then mostly made in India. Or we could just learn Chinese and read the original.
Electronics have come a long way and China is doing a much, much better job in manufacturing - Many overpriced items like early VFD’s are simply extinct. Lenze makes great stuff, but not even remotely worth the price anymore and probably will be out of business soon.
Don, by the time I post this you've had your VFD +8 months by now. The model I purchased was also inexpensive but has thus far been a blessing. I totally agree that the VFD is one of the most valuable upgrades one can make. The mere fact that it puts a 3 Phase motor to work in my shop is a giant leap forward. My VFD is rated at 1.5KW. it's a Soyanpower model SVD-E, which means nothing in today's huge China market. It's probably marketed under a variety of names and models. My user manual says that my model includes an upgrade that protects the Input Diode-Capacitor Bus from enormous inrush currents at mains turn on that past models were prone to. That said my user manual still stresses repeatedly the dangers of repeated turn on's and off's. They actually wanted the user to wait 2 hours after mains turn off before reconnecting! EEEEK! My guess is that the text in the manual was never amended with the Soft Start upgrade. I call it Soft Start but the industry name for it is "Pre-Charge Current Limiting". It is explained in this VFD video by a different manufacturer.
ruclips.net/video/HayryySX_po/видео.html
Since my model didn't include a schematic I wasn't taking any chances and built my own external limiter that connects between my 240V mains and the VFD 240V input terminals. Now, at worst case I have double Inrush Current protection!😉 The second thing I did was mount an auxiliary fan on the motor's fan bell. I did this is because the motor's integral fan is connected to the motor's armature. When you slow a motor down to low rpm that fan isn't moving any air! Hence, the motor will overheat under load. The small box fan I chose is a 120V model and is not supplied by the VFD. At the moment it runs at full rpm whenever the motor is running. I will be modifying that logic to keep the fan running after the motor has stopped until a thermostat tells the fan to shut off when the motor has cooled off.
Don, I'm guessing that you and I are a short drive from each other. We will break beer together one day soon. I know you drink beer because you have the classic beer physique much like mine. Mine is just much older!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Ha ha.. pretty funny. Too many years in Germany. You get used to beer flowing like water there. Cheaper than soda for sure. I don't blame you for adding a fan. Cheap insurance. Don
Life long sparky and I never purchase or use any electrical, safety & test equipment or LED'S made in lying cheating lack of quality control communist china. Had way too many defects & short time life span with garbage from cheating china. My cheap boss purchased the cheapest 5 HP VFD that china loving WW Grainger stocked. He spent over 6 hours trying to program the POS. even made several phone calls to their worthless tech support. He returned it for a made in good old USA drive and had it programmed in just a few minutes. Worked on hundreds of great Danfoss VLT & FC drives and horrible tech support ABB VFD'S. We have a great Danfoss tech that only charges around $200 to $225 to do a start up. This extends the free parts & labor to three years.
Such a boring, long time video
Eh… I bought the same VFD as you… cheap. Man they work great! Can’t complain… in fact… I have a hitachi… expensive one… guess what… to get it to power up I gotta tap it with a tool and then it comes to life… sooooo… you sayin these are crap….. so far my “quality “ one is the crap one.
I've had no problems with mine either. I don't own a Hitachi, but we have a few older ones at work that are still gettin to business every day. But really, the price can't be beat for you what you get with these. Don
I want to build a test bench for a diesel VE type injection pump off a 1HZ Toyota coaster engine. Not sure the total RMP i will need think about 2200RMP and or maybe 3600RPM max for a short while.
Can someone in the know run over these numbers and tell me if this VFD will match up to my motor. I'm totally new at this stuff first go at doing anything wow big learning experience. I will post vids on my channel eventually when i get it all set up. Thanks for any help!!
Motor Specs:
1 HP, 0.75kW, 50 HZ, 1405 RMP, INS F, AMB 45 o Celcius, CONT. RATING, TYPE AEEB-NECC, 240V, 3.24A, TRIANGLE SYMBOL NEXT TO THIS CONFIGURATION. 415V, 1.87A, THREE PRONGED AIRPLANE PROPELLER SYMBOL NEXT THIS RATINGS!!
Will my VFD with these below specs suit? Inpute Frequency 45-65 Hz Output Frequency 0.1-400 Hz Input Voltage AC 200-260V Output Voltage AC 220V Humidity 10-95% Relative Humidity (without dew) Control Mode SPWM Input Phase 1 or 3 Phase Output Phase 3 Phase Vibration 0.4 G Horsepower 2 HP Input Current 7.5 A Output Current 10 A
Thank you
You shouldn't have an issue with it, but be sure to set your max frequency down to around 80Hz or you'll have a mess. Also your start up/Min on a 50Hz motor will want o be around 30Hz. Any lower and the drop off will kill it. Don
This VFD is crap! Spent over 3 days trying to make it work and failed 🦧🤡
Sorry to hear. I'm running 3 right now with no issues. I did have one blow up right out of the box though. They sent me a new one, no questions asked.