This is an old video, so im sure you know by now, but Speedway sells a smaller version of the stock steering wheel now. I believe it's 15". This is a cool truck. Great stance and patina. I like the rear bumper mod. I hope to get a 47-54 GM truck soon
Thanks. We didn't do a video specifically on the brake system, but I think we talk about it in a few of the other videos. We used an under-the-floor power booster setup.
Thanks for posting this video as we are in the process of restoring my 1953 Chevy 1/2 Ton pickup. Can you tell me if you all have panels or another solution for rusted out metal where the front windshield mounts. We removed the windows and the metal left isnt good enough to reinstall the new glass. Again thanks for posting the video great looking truck!!
Unfortunately we do not have any type of repair panel for that area of the truck. That is a common problem area, though. Depending on the level of damage, it may be worth investing in a shrinker tool so you could make pieces to patch in.
Sure. I'll get under the truck and try to take a video showing how we built the supports and mounted everything. I just saw a 1947-53 Chevy Pickup Under Box Aluminum Fuel Tank on Speedway that has mounting tabs welded to it. Looks pretty nice, but it's also around $400.
Hi. I saw on RUclips, you were replacing the wood on the bed. I'm retired, I have a 50s Chevy truck I've had in my garage forvalmost 30 years. I bought a trailer in Tennessee for the 49 bed welded to an old U Haul trailer. I cut it apart. I'm trying to make it work on a 52 frame. It's ragged out. I'm doing it with what ever I can get. May I contact you with questions. Thanks JB
Great truck guys. I have a need of some advice about my GMC 5 window 1954 pickup. I am using a Chevy 327 like you guys have done but i'm going with a steel 19 gallon fuel tank that I'm putting between the rear bed rails. Also, i running a 12 VDC alternator and want to convert the gauges to 12 VDC. But one of my first problems is that my 1967 327 doesn't have accessory bolt holes in the heads. Looking at your videos it tough for me to see what heads you're using. If you have an early (1967) SBC 327 like i have how did you attach the alternator and power steering pump? My hang up now is the ignition and wiring the IDIDIT steering colum and the alternator and power steering pump up to work. I have Autocool brackets that seem to work but they hit the inner fender. I also have a 700R4 transmission and power brakes in the under cab stock location and using stock cast exhaust manifolds. I hate headers that leak. Scott in Oregon thank you
Yep, we had the same problem with our early small block, and it was a pain in the butt trying to make it all work. I had to make a bracket for the power steering pump and one for the alternator as well. I'll try to get a video of our setup so that you can see how we did it. We also used an IDIDIT steering column and their horn switch. That was fairly straightforward to install. The one thing I would do over is the wiring harness. We used some off-brand harness that caused a number of problems during, and after installation. I would highly recommend using a Ron Francis, or some other well-known brand, harness in order to avoid any potential issues.
I just posted a more detailed video of the engine compartment (ruclips.net/video/p0ORjXB37iI/видео.html). Let me know if you have any other questions, and good luck!
sorry, that other link doesn't seem to be working. You can try this one ruclips.net/video/p0ORjXB37iI/видео.html or just look at the Project 53 section of our channel.
Thanks for the video I was going to buy one of the seat kits from you but noticed the bottom cushion doesn't go all the way to the front edge? Please clarify. I think the welt should be around the front edge....
Yeah, I'm not sure why it did that. I've seen pics from customers of this same cover, and it extended further out. The springs in our truck actually came out of a 3500 series, but they should be the same. I mention it because we've seen other things that "should" be the same buy aren't.
That rear bumper is actually a front bumper, way more curve at the ends than the stock rear bumper. My '53 was tucked in similar to yours with a front bumper on the rear which actually looks better than the kinda flat rear bumper.
The cost can vary dramatically depending on how much the base truck costs, what driveline components you choose, and how much of the work you do yourself. We started with a base truck that was really, really rough (in pieces in a field). The truck was only $1500. We also had a small block sitting around that we freshened up, an we had a rearend that we just had rebuilt. And we did almost all of the work ourselves (other than painting the interior of the cab). Time (labor) and existing parts not included, we probably have $17-20k in the truck.
Beautiful truck. I know it's just personal preference but for the love of God please get rid of the flex hose on the radiator. Stock upper hose for a 76 small block Monte Carlo comes to mind. The rest of the truck is beautiful.
Great build! What rearend are you running and what's backspacing of rear wheels and tire size ??? Mine is sitting on original rear springs with 3" wheel spacers and I hate it...bought it that way
Thanks! It's a late 60s Chevy 10 bolt with 3.08 gears. We didn't modify the rear end, so it fit perfectly on the truck. The build details are all outlined in this article on our website raybuck.com/the-raybuck-1953-chevy-truck-build/, but the rear wheel/tire/backspacing is - Detroit Steel Wheels 18×8” Steelie - 5×4.5/4.75 lug pattern with a 4.5” back spacing - Falken Ziex ZE950 P245/55R/18.
Shouldn't the gas cap be mounted flush with the floor bed, too bad if you want to slide stuff in the tray, it gets cracked then you're up for a new one?
If we were sliding stuff in and out of the bed, then yes, we would have mounted it flush. This cap is metal, and we primarily just put things in a soft rooftop carrier towards the front of the bed, so this cap is fine for the things that we put in this truck.
@@garyjones2582 That's the plan. I need to fix the front brakes so that I can get it back on the road. We might actually do an engine swap between it and the 53, so definitely watch for some videos on it.
@@garyjones2582 That would be a tight squeeze, but a lot of fun. Unfortunately I think the 37 is going to get wrapped up and sold. Need some room for other projects.
We just used a satin clear. We simply washed the truck with a light soap mix, dried it and shot it. There were a few holes in the doors where someone had mounted different mirrors at one point. We welded those closed, and then applied a water/vinegar mix to them to "patina" them prior to clearing. We'll shoot a video describing this processes.
estou com dificuldade de colocar o capuz e todo o clipe dianteiro alinhado! você poderia fazer um videos com o passa a passo, e muito grande a dificuldade, la li o manual mas tem só o capuz preciso também dos para-lamas, desde já agradeço ,
It's a pain. Loosely put the fenders and grille in place. Then put the hood on. You may need to shim the radiator support up. I think we shimmed ours around 1/2". Shimming the radiator support, and only loosely bolting the grille in place, were the two things that really helped us align the front clip. We also reamed the hood hinge holes a bit.
Yeah, I hear you. We actually applied LizardSkin Sound Control and Ceramic Insulation to the entire inside of the cab. We didn't spray the doors because we wanted people to be able to hear the difference between a coated and an uncoated panel. Tapping on the door and then on the roof is like night and day! Maybe I'll coat the driver side door since I'm constantly in and out of it. I'll leave the passenger side door for the test :)
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts I have a 65 f100 and hate that sound. But now I understand where you come from. I like the fact that you kept it simple ish so it can be used as a daily if needed be.
Check with Johnathan Ward at ICON for a smaller size steering wheel that is almost identical to the original.. He has built several of these 47-53 pickups.. He's out in California..Check out one of his videos on RUclips.. Just type in Johnathan Ward ICON..
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts i just watched one of their early builds and he took the wheel from a 55 chevy and made a smaller version.. looked very nice.. I'm not sure if he used the smaller 55 on all his thrift master builds or not... He loves the classic style but wants to make the functionality much better.. He did a 58 Rolls-Royce that was very cool..
It's tricky because of the license plate location. Ideally, I think the overall curve of the bumper should be flattened and the ends curved in more, but that's well beyond the amount of time I wanted to put into that one item.
This is an old video, so im sure you know by now, but Speedway sells a smaller version of the stock steering wheel now. I believe it's 15". This is a cool truck. Great stance and patina. I like the rear bumper mod. I hope to get a 47-54 GM truck soon
One of the nicest 53 3100s I’ve ever seen
Very nice truck my friend!!!
Great job and video
Nice truck 👍
Beautiful. Just perfect. Can I have it?
Looks great man ... I dig it. Ive got a 48' 5 window myself.
Thanks. I looked at a 5 window but it needed even more work than this one!
I also have a 48 GMC 5 window
Super cool truck 👍
Thanks!
nice job
Great job. Any video on the brake system you installed?
Thanks. We didn't do a video specifically on the brake system, but I think we talk about it in a few of the other videos. We used an under-the-floor power booster setup.
Thanks for posting this video as we are in the process of restoring my 1953 Chevy 1/2 Ton pickup. Can you tell me if you all have panels or another solution for rusted out metal where the front windshield mounts. We removed the windows and the metal left isnt good enough to reinstall the new glass. Again thanks for posting the video great looking truck!!
Unfortunately we do not have any type of repair panel for that area of the truck. That is a common problem area, though. Depending on the level of damage, it may be worth investing in a shrinker tool so you could make pieces to patch in.
Subscribed. I need a lot of things.
We have a lot of things!
Awesome work, but could you show how you did the petrol tank
Sure. I'll get under the truck and try to take a video showing how we built the supports and mounted everything. I just saw a 1947-53 Chevy Pickup Under Box Aluminum Fuel Tank on Speedway that has mounting tabs welded to it. Looks pretty nice, but it's also around $400.
Check out the video that I posted yesterday showing the gas tank setup.
What is the paint code for the blue? I have a 50 that has that similar color but I don't have the original tag. Thanks
Far out, far freaking out, far up, far down. far around. Thats so far out its back in again.
Hi. I saw on RUclips, you were replacing the wood on the bed. I'm retired, I have a 50s Chevy truck I've had in my garage forvalmost 30 years. I bought a trailer in Tennessee for the 49 bed welded to an old U Haul trailer. I cut it apart. I'm trying to make it work on a 52 frame. It's ragged out. I'm doing it with what ever I can get. May I contact you with questions. Thanks JB
Sure. Shoot us an email at service@raybuck.com and we'll help however we can. Good luck!
Great truck guys. I have a need of some advice about my GMC 5 window 1954 pickup. I am using a Chevy 327 like you guys have done but i'm going with a steel 19 gallon fuel tank that I'm putting between the rear bed rails. Also, i running a 12 VDC alternator and want to convert the gauges to 12 VDC. But one of my first problems is that my 1967 327 doesn't have accessory bolt holes in the heads. Looking at your videos it tough for me to see what heads you're using. If you have an early (1967) SBC 327 like i have how did you attach the alternator and power steering pump? My hang up now is the ignition and wiring the IDIDIT steering colum and the alternator and power steering pump up to work. I have Autocool brackets that seem to work but they hit the inner fender. I also have a 700R4 transmission and power brakes in the under cab stock location and using stock cast exhaust manifolds. I hate headers that leak. Scott in Oregon thank you
Yep, we had the same problem with our early small block, and it was a pain in the butt trying to make it all work. I had to make a bracket for the power steering pump and one for the alternator as well. I'll try to get a video of our setup so that you can see how we did it. We also used an IDIDIT steering column and their horn switch. That was fairly straightforward to install. The one thing I would do over is the wiring harness. We used some off-brand harness that caused a number of problems during, and after installation. I would highly recommend using a Ron Francis, or some other well-known brand, harness in order to avoid any potential issues.
I just posted a more detailed video of the engine compartment (ruclips.net/video/p0ORjXB37iI/видео.html). Let me know if you have any other questions, and good luck!
sorry, that other link doesn't seem to be working. You can try this one ruclips.net/video/p0ORjXB37iI/видео.html or just look at the Project 53 section of our channel.
Thanks for the video I was going to buy one of the seat kits from you but noticed the bottom cushion doesn't go all the way to the front edge? Please clarify. I think the welt should be around the front edge....
Yeah, I'm not sure why it did that. I've seen pics from customers of this same cover, and it extended further out. The springs in our truck actually came out of a 3500 series, but they should be the same. I mention it because we've seen other things that "should" be the same buy aren't.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts ok. Did you check with your vendor for their comment? I do want to buy a seat cover set.
That rear bumper is actually a front bumper, way more curve at the ends than the stock rear bumper. My '53 was tucked in similar to yours with a front bumper on the rear which actually looks better than the kinda flat rear bumper.
I can’t find a truck like yours anywhere
Boa tarde congrats vai carro 1953 icon thrifimaster Tor of details parto 2022 bom trabalho
What did it cost you to do this I like it ... super functional looks clean let us viewers know thanks great job
The cost can vary dramatically depending on how much the base truck costs, what driveline components you choose, and how much of the work you do yourself. We started with a base truck that was really, really rough (in pieces in a field). The truck was only $1500. We also had a small block sitting around that we freshened up, an we had a rearend that we just had rebuilt. And we did almost all of the work ourselves (other than painting the interior of the cab). Time (labor) and existing parts not included, we probably have $17-20k in the truck.
Beautiful truck. I know it's just personal preference but for the love of God please get rid of the flex hose on the radiator. Stock upper hose for a 76 small block Monte Carlo comes to mind. The rest of the truck is beautiful.
Yeah, I know. We just had a hard time finding a stock-style hose to fit it and then I moved on to other projects. Some day I'll replace it.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts finally found the part number I used on mine. Look up a 20416.
@@nickcautrell2514 thanks!
Great build! What rearend are you running and what's backspacing of rear wheels and tire size ??? Mine is sitting on original rear springs with 3" wheel spacers and I hate it...bought it that way
Thanks! It's a late 60s Chevy 10 bolt with 3.08 gears. We didn't modify the rear end, so it fit perfectly on the truck. The build details are all outlined in this article on our website raybuck.com/the-raybuck-1953-chevy-truck-build/, but the rear wheel/tire/backspacing is - Detroit Steel Wheels 18×8” Steelie - 5×4.5/4.75 lug pattern with a 4.5” back spacing - Falken Ziex ZE950 P245/55R/18.
How you doing Sir? How do you dropped the front ? I have a 59 Apache 31 I want to drop the front
I really appreciate it your help
We installed a Heidts mustang II front suspension with 2" drop spindles. That put the front bumper about 5-1/2" off the ground.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts thank you so much for your help
on your door weatherstrip which way did you put the high on facing cab or laid up against tye door and could you send me a picture of them thanks
high side was facing the cab. If you send an email to service@raybuck.com I'll send you some pics.
Shouldn't the gas cap be mounted flush with the floor bed, too bad if you want to slide stuff in the tray, it gets cracked then you're up for a new one?
If we were sliding stuff in and out of the bed, then yes, we would have mounted it flush. This cap is metal, and we primarily just put things in a soft rooftop carrier towards the front of the bed, so this cap is fine for the things that we put in this truck.
Nice truck! What is the black truck in the background?
1937 dodge
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Do a video on the 37 next...
@@garyjones2582 That's the plan. I need to fix the front brakes so that I can get it back on the road. We might actually do an engine swap between it and the 53, so definitely watch for some videos on it.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Is a hemi on tap for the 37?
@@garyjones2582 That would be a tight squeeze, but a lot of fun. Unfortunately I think the 37 is going to get wrapped up and sold. Need some room for other projects.
I love this truck great job!!!!! what did you clear coat it with and how did you prep the patina?
We just used a satin clear. We simply washed the truck with a light soap mix, dried it and shot it. There were a few holes in the doors where someone had mounted different mirrors at one point. We welded those closed, and then applied a water/vinegar mix to them to "patina" them prior to clearing. We'll shoot a video describing this processes.
I have a 60/40 bench - aaaggghhh try to find a cover for that
Was that in a Suburban?
Do you still sale the fenders?
Yes, we still sell fenders for this truck. You can find them here raybuck.com/?s=1953+chevy+pickup+fender
Badass
How much does that truck go for?
Is it for sale?
Thanks! Sorry, it's not for sale.
estou com dificuldade de colocar o capuz e todo o clipe dianteiro alinhado! você poderia fazer um videos com o passa a passo, e muito grande a dificuldade, la li o manual mas tem só o capuz preciso também dos para-lamas, desde já agradeço ,
It's a pain. Loosely put the fenders and grille in place. Then put the hood on. You may need to shim the radiator support up. I think we shimmed ours around 1/2". Shimming the radiator support, and only loosely bolting the grille in place, were the two things that really helped us align the front clip. We also reamed the hood hinge holes a bit.
Yes that's the right dash but it's still not a 53 unless a late 53 .
Nice truck though
Nice truck! You need to add some sound deadening to those doors. Will make a big difference on the sound when you close those the doors.
Yeah, I hear you. We actually applied LizardSkin Sound Control and Ceramic Insulation to the entire inside of the cab. We didn't spray the doors because we wanted people to be able to hear the difference between a coated and an uncoated panel. Tapping on the door and then on the roof is like night and day! Maybe I'll coat the driver side door since I'm constantly in and out of it. I'll leave the passenger side door for the test :)
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts I have a 65 f100 and hate that sound. But now I understand where you come from. I like the fact that you kept it simple ish so it can be used as a daily if needed be.
Do you have parts for c10 1964 - 1970
Yes, just go to www.raybuck.com and search for 1964 chevy pickup, or any year, and you'll find a lot of parts. thanks
I’m very interested in older trucks if you are sailing please let me know
Do you sale any of them
Sorry, it's not for sale.
do yall have a catlodge
Sorry, we do not. All of our parts are listed on our website (www.raybuck.com).
Check with Johnathan Ward at ICON for a smaller size steering wheel that is almost identical to the original.. He has built several of these 47-53 pickups.. He's out in California..Check out one of his videos on RUclips.. Just type in Johnathan Ward ICON..
Thanks. I've seen the ICON truck and some of their other builds. Very, very nice. I'll see if they have this style steering wheel.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts i just watched one of their early builds and he took the wheel from a 55 chevy and made a smaller version.. looked very nice.. I'm not sure if he used the smaller 55 on all his thrift master builds or not... He loves the classic style but wants to make the functionality much better.. He did a 58 Rolls-Royce that was very cool..
How much
Is This For Sale
Sorry, no.
muito bonita tua Chevy de 1953 , tenho uma 1950. aqui no brasil e muito grande a dificuldade de encontrar pecas.
Gracias!
The back bumper is tucked in too much, looks whacked. Nice truck overall though.
It's tricky because of the license plate location. Ideally, I think the overall curve of the bumper should be flattened and the ends curved in more, but that's well beyond the amount of time I wanted to put into that one item.
That isn't a 53 unless a late 53 ,,a true 53 had a totally different grill and the dash was different but I didn't see that ...
It's a 53. that grille ran from 47-53. The grille changed in 54.