I thought that's what he's making but thinking about it now i guess it's very complicated with the all the angles So he only simulated the look of it.😂 For now at least
A perfect woodturning and a professional video. There is no panning back and forth, no zooming in and out again, no shaky handheld shots, just perfect. The cut is rapid, so there is no boredom. I'm looking forward to the next videos. Greetings from Styria.
Frank, I don't know how you programmed the cut in the CNC (aside from the multiple step-downs I saw), but in machining (wood or metal, it all applies) when you want to straighten the wall of a cut, we use "spring passes". You leave .005"ish around the entire periphery during step-downs, and then take multiple final passes at full-depth to clean the side-wall up. Do the first pass at the full .005" step-over, then run 1-2 spring passes at the same toolpath. As each pass is made, there is less side-pressure on the end mill, and it "springs away" less. Should help a bit. It's also heavily dependent on your length-diam ratio on the cutter, what we call 1D, 2D etc. Once you start getting out past 5D-ish, spring passes make a big difference. All the best.
@@brennerheavy I suggested something like this probably a year or more ago. I really don't think Frank reads comments so I stopped commenting on his channel.
@@prototype3a I am pretty sure he reads comments. I got some answers over the years. I think for his application just making the cuts a bit oversized would to the job. These are no fitting in steel after all :)
Pro-tip: Play this vid at 1.25 and he'll speak at a regular person pace But in all honesty, you might have to be one of the most incredible brains I've seen on Woodworking RUclips. My mind is blown.
One of my favorite things about your process, Frank, is the honest critique of the work when it is finished. You’re willing to openly discuss what you wish was different, what surprised you and what pleases you. Very inspiring!
Frank, you have been amazing me for so long. I have no idea how you think on the level you do. Just to come up with a desiign blows me away. And then for the math and equasion well you leave me going in the other direction. Thank you! And the grain pattern is perfect!
Really nice. And I'm most impressed--that's meticulous, and big, at the same time. Good job! BTW The cherry will darken over time, so the contrast should increase. If you wanna speed it up, sit it in direct sunlight for a day.
while the bowl and the woodworking is impressive, your creativity with all of the elements of the video and the editing is super cool... thank you for all of this extra effort. fun to watch!
Another impressive example of your various skills! Since you enjoy these triangle challenges so much, maybe you need to build some jigs, as suggested elsewhere, to facilitate the various stages of assembly.
Damn, I love this channel. I make a little bet with myself, what minute in the video will Frank do his trademark dad chuckle? This one came in fast and furious from the jump.
Thanks Frank amazing work and a very interesting video as always, one of the things I greatly respect about you is your self critique and honestly about any mistakes and learning curves.... a lot of tubers fudge over those so please don't change who you are!
You use walnut and maple because they are the best contrasting colors 😜 And the most beautiful contrast. On our CNC, we use a flush trim router bit with a bearing to cut off the onion skin. We also slow the CNC travel down because the bit does flex causing tapers.
I build these objects all the time. Use and upholstery stapler to joint the pieces. Since you are going to turn it you will shave off the staples. Works really well.
Awesome work Frank! I always love to see you creatively work through your projects, and especially if you make an error (and your solutions). If you are looking for ideas on how complex puzzle pieces fit together (especially in a 3D environment) you should check out some M.C. Escher drawings and how he created repeating patterns, most were in a triangular "base" shape.
Beautiful work. Like you said in the beginning this bowl will look awesome in walnut and maple. Maybe use 3 woods and make the pentatonic sections from 2 and the equilateral triangle sections from the third.
Yeah, for anyone reading this… the way that a router bit functions is such that some areas will get more wear due to position and usage. Hence, an unequally worn router bit may produce different results than a non-worn one. Thus, the taper. SOURCE: EPGeek
@@funkychilldude Can confirm. I've used a straight bit to rout 1/8"-deep dadoes, then later used it for something that required its full length. It cut fine, except for the last 1/8" of the bit, which left ragged results..
I loved your summary. Sounded really reasonable and you explained your reasoning briefly and clearly. I have the same opinion but Im a daltonist so what can I tell... :D
I really like how you explain your artistic process along the way and include your own critiques at the end. For those of us that are more engineer than artist, this is very nice.
Love these bowls! I've always had the idea of something similar to this one but with all bowties. Haven't quite thought it fully out but think it would look cool with contrasting woods.
9:33 - You could 3D-print a pentagonal "bowl" with springs along the outer edges, that would push the 5 blocks together into the middle, while keeping them flat against the bowl itself.
Fantastic video as always. I think there’s a similarity of the insert to a chess pawn. Maybe you can do an ultra challenge bowl with the rest of the chess pieces around the edge of the bowl. Imagine!
Frank, don't knock yourself out that the grain colour match and how well the individual pieces glued together. This is a rather complex undertaking, which is well beyond my skill level at this point, so I'm happy just to see your process. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Beautiful work as always. Maybe you could use that trick where you put a couple of drops of ca glue together with the regular wood glue. Hold the pieces together by hand for 30 seconds or so, so that the ca glue dries and then that will "clamp" the pieces together while the wood glue dries.
For a sphere, glue up the sections about 10-15 min, then join them all together. Then wrap in cling film, giving a slight stretch as you wrap. This will act to press everything roughly equal.
For gluing up the triangles; maybe you could make a "bowl" with the cnc where the triangle pieces fit perfectly, then you can just put a weight on top. You could make a "bowl" or mold for every type of shape as you need them.
That bowl turned out great! But if you want to increase the contrast between the kaya and the cherry, you could expose the bowl to UV light from the sun or maybe even a led UV light. Cherry is photo reactive, meaning that the longer it is exposed to UV light the darker it gets. Whenever I make something out of cherry I put it on the window sill for a couple of months to get a nice mahogany color hue
Really fun project Frank and it 'turned' out real nice! The sphere comprising 80 triangles is a Pentakis Icosidodecahedron (pronounced: penta-kiss icosi-doh-deca-he-dron). It's an Icosidodecahedron with caps (very shallow pyramids) on the pentagonal faces.
The faces of a pentakis icosidodecahedron (wow what a word) are also not all the same, there are 60 isosceles triangles and 20 equilateral triangles in it, which could explain the slight inconsistencies that Frank was experiencing during the glue-up. But it turned out really beautiful, which also shows that you don't always have to be spot on with your math for a thing to work out! 😁
Neat video. Here's an idea, perhaps for a future video: all maps can be drawn with 4 colors or fewer such that none of the colors touch. Maybe take that fact and make another puzzle bowl with 4 types of wood?
Hey Frank, first time commenter. I was thinking of a few ideas you could clamp your pieces better and here are some of the ones I came up with as a 3D printing hobbyist: - 3D printing an inside and outside profile to the triangles, shaped in such a way that there are flat, parallel sides. When I say "profile", I'm thinking of a 3D model that fills the negative space on both the outside and inside of the triangle assembly. Having parallel sides could allow you to clamp the pieces down in a proper manner. Downsides to this approach would be that these profiles would have to be fairly strong and I'm not sure how the prints would handle wood glue. Ideally, you could print a bunch and they would last multiple projects, but if not, you could also consider 3D printing molds that you could pour epoxy into to make something that's more durable - Similar to the previous suggestion, you could 3D print custom designed clamps that have the correct angles to work with your glue ups - You could modify small C-clamps to have a threaded insert at an angle. You could mount these clamps to the edges of your triangle and use a threaded rod to bring these inserts closer together. The angle of these inserts could be fixed to fit one size/type of bowl you're using or you could even 3D print an assembly that allows the angle of threaded inserts to be adjustable - For bigger assemblies like quarter or half spheres, you could print the inside profile to the bowl (as mentioned above). Place that inside your assembly and then use a strong vacuum and flexible plastic sheet to bring the corners close together in a uniform way (almost like you're vacuum forming the plastic around the bowl) Hope this helps! I'd love to see you explore more 3D printing on your channel as well!
Have you considered trying a vacuum bag for your clamping problem? Supporting the underside with a dome of solid insulation foam, maybe, or a second hemisphere?
Could you make a two part clamping mold to glue the triangles? A half dome bowl and a plug (or maybe a series of plugs to account for different radii from different thicknesses of bowls before turning). You could face them with some kind of flexible foam or weather stripping to account for the irregularities and the angles before turning.
Bad idea, the pieces would have the chance to fly off or could flip over and be damaged by the blade. Regardless, the "bottom" would no longer be flat.
I wonder if a convex glueup form would work for your pentagons. In fact, you could put a border around the bottom so that the pieces would not slip. Either cut from HDPE, or perhaps cover in blue tape to keep it from being glued to the workpiece.
Put it in front of a south facing window, you know the cherry will darken quite quickly. Then move it to a less sunny spot when the differentiation is what you like.
I wonder if you had put it under some strong UV lights for a few days before applying the finish, if that would have jump-started the darkening of the cherry. (or even just put it outside in some direct sunlight) I'm just curious as to what this will look like in a year or two after the cherry has darkened. Does the Kaya(sp?) darken also with time?
That is very awesome, and a good way to go about it. However to get the effect i believe you were going for you'd probably have to go all out and have tapered the entire triangular puzzle piece at the CNC, then puzzle it together in glue up. as for gluing, a jig cut out on the cnc pentagram with triangular sections to the angle it needs to be with a mirrored section to put weight down on top?
You are a master in what you do! Magnificent piece of art. I would like to converse with you in order to share an idea that I have. Love your work. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍❤️
Oh man, it would be so cool to have an actual wooden sphere puzzle you could assemble.
I thought that's what he's making but thinking about it now i guess it's very complicated with the all the angles
So he only simulated the look of it.😂 For now at least
Woah good to see you here. Love your videos
Yeah. I was disappointed to see it not be a real puzzle. Just one that looks like a puzzle.
I feel like it’s definitely possible just very difficult. Maybe one day he’ll revisit this project and give it a shot!
Have to agree,what a beautiful job ,a toy is a wonderful suggestion !
A perfect woodturning and a professional video. There is no panning back and forth, no zooming in and out again, no shaky handheld shots, just perfect. The cut is rapid, so there is no boredom. I'm looking forward to the next videos. Greetings from Styria.
Frank is the Man! He has truly set the bar for woodworking videos!
You are a most ingenious wood-worker, Frank. I always enjoy your self-deprecating chuckles too. That bowl was a true work of art.
This isn’t woodworking. This is art!
The intricate geometry of this design is puzzling.
I love how you kept your mistakes in the video rather than editing them out.
Frank, I don't know how you programmed the cut in the CNC (aside from the multiple step-downs I saw), but in machining (wood or metal, it all applies) when you want to straighten the wall of a cut, we use "spring passes". You leave .005"ish around the entire periphery during step-downs, and then take multiple final passes at full-depth to clean the side-wall up. Do the first pass at the full .005" step-over, then run 1-2 spring passes at the same toolpath. As each pass is made, there is less side-pressure on the end mill, and it "springs away" less. Should help a bit. It's also heavily dependent on your length-diam ratio on the cutter, what we call 1D, 2D etc. Once you start getting out past 5D-ish, spring passes make a big difference. All the best.
He may also need to sweep the vertical axis into alignment with a dial indicator so that it's perfectly square with the table.
@@LameSauceAge Yes, it could also be a tramming issue.
@@brennerheavy I suggested something like this probably a year or more ago. I really don't think Frank reads comments so I stopped commenting on his channel.
@@prototype3a I am pretty sure he reads comments. I got some answers over the years.
I think for his application just making the cuts a bit oversized would to the job. These are no fitting in steel after all :)
Yes, I agree, the taper he is seeing is deflection. Adding a finish pass, if there already isn't one, plus a spring pass should get rid of most of it.
I would set it in the sun, some UV should darken up the cherry and get you a bit more contrast. Nice piece!
Love your work. Learn so much from you. Also love that your videos are the exact time it takes me to drink a cup of coffee. 😊
Watching this again :). My son is autistic so this bowl makes me smile for symbolic reasons.
Puzzling work you got there, Frank!
I actually like that it’s a subtle color difference!
I get so excited every time I see that you’ve posted. Brightens my day. Thank you Frank!
Pro-tip: Play this vid at 1.25 and he'll speak at a regular person pace
But in all honesty, you might have to be one of the most incredible brains I've seen on Woodworking RUclips. My mind is blown.
Fantastic the only person on this earth that could conceive this, figure out how to do it, do it and explain what he’s doing. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It looks like you bought a kit to make a bowl vs all the hard work ypu put into it.
It's awesome to watch you use so much creativity and intelligence!
Excellent craftsmanship.
Very nice bowl Frank, Greetings and God Bless for you and your family (Lokkie @ the Shed)
Your engineering and technical skills amaze me. Plus you are super creative!
Magical project. The cherry will darken in time with sunlight and you may end up with a better contrast between the woods.
Even when your plans don't come together perfectly , it still looks gorgeous.
Great craftsmanship and patience.
One of my favorite things about your process, Frank, is the honest critique of the work when it is finished. You’re willing to openly discuss what you wish was different, what surprised you and what pleases you. Very inspiring!
I love your passion to push the limits of 3d woodworking, without making it needlessly complex.
Frank, you have been amazing me for so long. I have no idea how you think on the level you do. Just to come up with a desiign blows me away. And then for the math and equasion well you leave me going in the other direction. Thank you! And the grain pattern is perfect!
You are a genius Frank! Great work and all the very best for 2022!
Really nice. And I'm most impressed--that's meticulous, and big, at the same time. Good job! BTW The cherry will darken over time, so the contrast should increase. If you wanna speed it up, sit it in direct sunlight for a day.
Your planning skills are excellent.
while the bowl and the woodworking is impressive, your creativity with all of the elements of the video and the editing is super cool... thank you for all of this extra effort. fun to watch!
Frank Thank You for another fine video, well done Sir
Thank you for sharing your story. Happy new year. God bless you and your family.
Another impressive example of your various skills!
Since you enjoy these triangle challenges so much, maybe you need to build some jigs, as suggested elsewhere, to facilitate the various stages of assembly.
Beautiful piece, enjoyable video. Thanks for posting.
Damn, I love this channel. I make a little bet with myself, what minute in the video will Frank do his trademark dad chuckle? This one came in fast and furious from the jump.
That is a very interesting bowl. But when you push a design there is going to be a steep learning curve. But it still works. Amazing. Stay sare!
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера Фрэнка.
Looks great, Frank. Maybe you'll see more contrast as the cherry darkens with time.
Yeah thought same thing. Be cool for a follow up even in a couple months
yes, this is probably true
Thanks Frank amazing work and a very interesting video as always, one of the things I greatly respect about you is your self critique and honestly about any mistakes and learning curves.... a lot of tubers fudge over those so please don't change who you are!
I’ll look forward to take 2 ☺️
You use walnut and maple because they are the best contrasting colors 😜 And the most beautiful contrast.
On our CNC, we use a flush trim router bit with a bearing to cut off the onion skin. We also slow the CNC travel down because the bit does flex causing tapers.
I build these objects all the time. Use and upholstery stapler to joint the pieces. Since you are going to turn it you will shave off the staples. Works really well.
Awesome work Frank! I always love to see you creatively work through your projects, and especially if you make an error (and your solutions). If you are looking for ideas on how complex puzzle pieces fit together (especially in a 3D environment) you should check out some M.C. Escher drawings and how he created repeating patterns, most were in a triangular "base" shape.
Beautiful work. Like you said in the beginning this bowl will look awesome in walnut and maple. Maybe use 3 woods and make the pentatonic sections from 2 and the equilateral triangle sections from the third.
I like that he does not say "it didn´t work out because i made a mistake" but "it didnt wok out because i learned something new"
Nice work on the bowl Frank! The cherry should darken over time and the pattern will really pop. Fun project - great video production.
Excellent piece and very interesting process. Full View and Like 👍
Would love to see this project done again with extremely contrasting woods. Or even 3 woods....
The end of router bits (and endmill cutters) will tend to wear more because it's used more, leading to that very slight taper you noticed.
Yeah, for anyone reading this… the way that a router bit functions is such that some areas will get more wear due to position and usage. Hence, an unequally worn router bit may produce different results than a non-worn one. Thus, the taper.
SOURCE: EPGeek
@@funkychilldude Can confirm. I've used a straight bit to rout 1/8"-deep dadoes, then later used it for something that required its full length. It cut fine, except for the last 1/8" of the bit, which left ragged results..
I loved your summary. Sounded really reasonable and you explained your reasoning briefly and clearly. I have the same opinion but Im a daltonist so what can I tell... :D
Simply beautiful Frank thank you! Make On
Frank, Your projects just keep getting better and maore interesting! Congratulations.
Congrats on the 600000, Frank.
Idk Frank, I really like the subtle color difference between the species. It works for me and looks fantastic. Great video as always.
Great project Frank. The lessons learned from this one will make the next one fantastic. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2022 and stay safe.
I really like how you explain your artistic process along the way and include your own critiques at the end. For those of us that are more engineer than artist, this is very nice.
Love these bowls! I've always had the idea of something similar to this one but with all bowties. Haven't quite thought it fully out but think it would look cool with contrasting woods.
That is one mighty complicated bowl, mister. 😮😵💫😀
It really turned out beautiful. Also, I love seeing you use your glue caddy after having watched you make it!
9:33 - You could 3D-print a pentagonal "bowl" with springs along the outer edges, that would push the 5 blocks together into the middle, while keeping them flat against the bowl itself.
Wow you really can do anything.
Great job as always
Great Piece, Frank!
Nice work, looks great.
First-rate work!
Looks good …. Try again with different woods and the experience you gained from this one … 😎
Fantastic video as always.
I think there’s a similarity of the insert to a chess pawn. Maybe you can do an ultra challenge bowl with the rest of the chess pieces around the edge of the bowl. Imagine!
Luv yer work Frank.
Excellent as usual!!!
It really is beautiful.
Fantástico bowl, buen proyecto 👏. Saludos Sr. Frank 👋.
Impressive! Great video.
Job well done Frank!
#ISaluteYou
A simply beautiful puzzle...❤🧩❤
I think it is amazing how you worked this out (my brain hurts just thinking about it, lol) and you've ended up with a beautiful bowl...
A beautiful bowl, I would like the higher contrast of the woods, but I also like the subtlety in this piece, Happy New Year, congrats on 600k, wooot
Frank, don't knock yourself out that the grain colour match and how well the individual pieces glued together. This is a rather complex undertaking, which is well beyond my skill level at this point, so I'm happy just to see your process. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Beautiful work as always. Maybe you could use that trick where you put a couple of drops of ca glue together with the regular wood glue. Hold the pieces together by hand for 30 seconds or so, so that the ca glue dries and then that will "clamp" the pieces together while the wood glue dries.
For a sphere, glue up the sections about 10-15 min, then join them all together. Then wrap in cling film, giving a slight stretch as you wrap. This will act to press everything roughly equal.
For gluing up the triangles; maybe you could make a "bowl" with the cnc where the triangle pieces fit perfectly, then you can just put a weight on top. You could make a "bowl" or mold for every type of shape as you need them.
That would be really neat! Or maybe some 3D printed clamping jigs?
That bowl turned out great! But if you want to increase the contrast between the kaya and the cherry, you could expose the bowl to UV light from the sun or maybe even a led UV light. Cherry is photo reactive, meaning that the longer it is exposed to UV light the darker it gets. Whenever I make something out of cherry I put it on the window sill for a couple of months to get a nice mahogany color hue
Really fun project Frank and it 'turned' out real nice! The sphere comprising 80 triangles is a Pentakis Icosidodecahedron (pronounced: penta-kiss icosi-doh-deca-he-dron). It's an Icosidodecahedron with caps (very shallow pyramids) on the pentagonal faces.
The faces of a pentakis icosidodecahedron (wow what a word) are also not all the same, there are 60 isosceles triangles and 20 equilateral triangles in it, which could explain the slight inconsistencies that Frank was experiencing during the glue-up. But it turned out really beautiful, which also shows that you don't always have to be spot on with your math for a thing to work out! 😁
Neat video.
Here's an idea, perhaps for a future video: all maps can be drawn with 4 colors or fewer such that none of the colors touch. Maybe take that fact and make another puzzle bowl with 4 types of wood?
Oooh I like that idea! As far as I'm aware, they're expensive, but I love the colours of purpleheart and yellowheart.
I'd love to see a v2!
very nice. I enjoy your videos
Hey Frank, first time commenter. I was thinking of a few ideas you could clamp your pieces better and here are some of the ones I came up with as a 3D printing hobbyist:
- 3D printing an inside and outside profile to the triangles, shaped in such a way that there are flat, parallel sides. When I say "profile", I'm thinking of a 3D model that fills the negative space on both the outside and inside of the triangle assembly. Having parallel sides could allow you to clamp the pieces down in a proper manner. Downsides to this approach would be that these profiles would have to be fairly strong and I'm not sure how the prints would handle wood glue. Ideally, you could print a bunch and they would last multiple projects, but if not, you could also consider 3D printing molds that you could pour epoxy into to make something that's more durable
- Similar to the previous suggestion, you could 3D print custom designed clamps that have the correct angles to work with your glue ups
- You could modify small C-clamps to have a threaded insert at an angle. You could mount these clamps to the edges of your triangle and use a threaded rod to bring these inserts closer together. The angle of these inserts could be fixed to fit one size/type of bowl you're using or you could even 3D print an assembly that allows the angle of threaded inserts to be adjustable
- For bigger assemblies like quarter or half spheres, you could print the inside profile to the bowl (as mentioned above). Place that inside your assembly and then use a strong vacuum and flexible plastic sheet to bring the corners close together in a uniform way (almost like you're vacuum forming the plastic around the bowl)
Hope this helps! I'd love to see you explore more 3D printing on your channel as well!
Have you considered trying a vacuum bag for your clamping problem? Supporting the underside with a dome of solid insulation foam, maybe, or a second hemisphere?
Very nice. Enjoy your vids
Love your videos. Could you do a cooking video? Maybe make some wood utensils
Could you make a two part clamping mold to glue the triangles? A half dome bowl and a plug (or maybe a series of plugs to account for different radii from different thicknesses of bowls before turning). You could face them with some kind of flexible foam or weather stripping to account for the irregularities and the angles before turning.
Very nice indeed, Frank! Next time try ebony and maple.
have you thought about using the plainer to release the parts cut in the cnc from the boards? That would be an interesting experiment.
Bad idea, the pieces would have the chance to fly off or could flip over and be damaged by the blade. Regardless, the "bottom" would no longer be flat.
I wonder if a convex glueup form would work for your pentagons. In fact, you could put a border around the bottom so that the pieces would not slip. Either cut from HDPE, or perhaps cover in blue tape to keep it from being glued to the workpiece.
Maybe staining before joining the parts into triangles. Thus you can have a dark brown/red for one wood while keeping another much lighter
Great job!!! I started to use stop motion in my video after watching your videos
Another awesome video!! Thank you!!
Put it in front of a south facing window, you know the cherry will darken quite quickly. Then move it to a less sunny spot when the differentiation is what you like.
I wonder if you had put it under some strong UV lights for a few days before applying the finish, if that would have jump-started the darkening of the cherry. (or even just put it outside in some direct sunlight) I'm just curious as to what this will look like in a year or two after the cherry has darkened. Does the Kaya(sp?) darken also with time?
That is very awesome, and a good way to go about it. However to get the effect i believe you were going for you'd probably have to go all out and have tapered the entire triangular puzzle piece at the CNC, then puzzle it together in glue up.
as for gluing, a jig cut out on the cnc pentagram with triangular sections to the angle it needs to be with a mirrored section to put weight down on top?
You are a master in what you do! Magnificent piece of art. I would like to converse with you in order to share an idea that I have. Love your work. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍❤️
Beautiful 😊