Thanx ALOT , after going to 2 different mechanics for having weird performence loss between 2250 and 2750 rpm on my accord 97 vtec, both received the same code of missfire on cyl 1 so i changed spark plugs, cables, rotor and 2 more things that i do not know the translation from french :) but still had the same issue and code, after checking on you tube i came uppon your video and actualy went to the garage and suggested to them that maybe this was the problem wich they ignored... so after 1 year with the same problem i decided to do it myself outside at -20 degrees and went actualy very well took 20-25 minutes to take everything of including the egr valve and everything was clogged... 15 minutes to clean and 15 to put everything back on... now it purr`s like a brand new kitten and gained very good performance :)
Eric it is well over 10 years that you made the EGR video and I want to thank you for posting it. I am repairing a car that I just bought to give to a family in need and wanted to save money fixing it so I did everything myself. Thanks to you I got this 2001 Honda Accord running like new. It has 217,000 miles on it and with your help you can't even tell its that old. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your guidance my man You are the best!
Awesome video, saved my butt. 97 accord. It was gunked up completely with the engine light on. 60 minutes later, no light, better performance, it's all good. Thanks Eric, you are awesome!
I just did this this morning to my Accord. Very easy to do. It took all of an hour from start to finish. This video was a GREAT help. Eric's videos are the best on here for repair help. I used my shop vac to suck the carbon out of the intake, I also pushed a small drill bit in BY HAND, to make sure the passages were fully clean. Pulled my EGR valve and it was not blocked, the passages were, 3 out of 4, 2 completely. I reset my computer and erased the code, I ran it for about 15 minutes up to op temp, time will tell if it's also a bad EGR valve. I'm not buying one until I KNOW it needs one. Naturally when I carefully pulled the injectors like Eric said. One decided to stay in and pop out of the rail, not a big deal, it went back in without an issue. No leaks. Thanks for the video Eric!
Thanks for another great video Eric ! I've been going through your old videos and using them to help fix typical issues on my son's '96 Accord DX with 141k. Just did all the seals, and belts under the timing cover and saved it from going to the junk yard with it's previous owner. It's a survivor and will make a great first car for my son. It runs awesome, and has no rust ! Thanks again for all you do!
My 1993 accord failed smog test for NO. I knew if I took it to a mechanic I would end up with a new catalytic converter, then an EGR valve then this repair. I followed this video and found the EGR passages completely clogged. Cleaned it put it back together and it passed smog. You are awesome, thanks!!!
Eric I have a 97 Accord ,,,When I started it yesterday it ran perfect ,,,I then cut it off and cleaned the engine and rinsed the engine with no power hooked ..I allowed engine to completely dry ..Had no fuel in the fuel rail at all this morning ..Checked my fuel pump and was no humming ,,messed with the fuel pump connection and now I have fuel in the rail..That is something I will do tomorrow as you described GUNK in the egr area of the fuel rail ..Thanks And Bet Your Ass I stay nasty ,,,I buy cars and fix them and sell them ..30 years I have bought and sold ,,Your channel teaches me stuff God Bless
I agree. God Bless EricTheCarGuy. :) I suggest you become a member at www.ericthecarguy.com. It's much better to ask automotive questions there. Many great mechanics and DIYers there. I may have more time than Eric to answer questions on RUclips. (He's quicker to help out over there.) I do it because it's my "next step" in learning beyond videos and cranking on cars. When I give people feedback, they give feedback and we all end up learning together. No fuel pressure? I'd check to listen for the pump first. 2nd check the fuse. Try bridging the relay that runs the fuel pump, or trade another relay in the car. It usually makes something else not work, but if the fuel pump works, you've now found your problem. (Swapping relays, I've fixed "bad" starters and fuel pumps. Obviously, we still needed an additional working relay, lol) If none of the above helped and you're not building fuel pressure. Fuel pump time...Eric has a video on it. Without him I wouldn't have found 2 bad fuel pumps now. :) . . . if the system has a return on it the fuel pressure regulator has an effect along with the filter, but probably not the problem unless either one is clogged.
@TravisKiller If I'm honest it might be a bit because I have other videos that I need to post first but I do plan to work that in at some point. Thanks for your comments.
Thanks a lot again. I will try this on my Honda cause the EGR code came on and it feels like it's about to turn off when I come to a stop. You have helped plenty of times when I have questions about symptoms of my car.
This 12 year old video is still relevant to my 25 year old Accord. Weird serging> ✔️ Check engine light ✔️ Egr code p0410 ✔️ 85 dollar replacement egr valve that did nothing to solve the problem ✔️ ✔️ Thanks for all the great content over the years 👍
I've seen the speedo trick used before, very effective, great suggestion. On these Honda's it wouldn't work however, they made the passages at 90º to the main passage so on the old style Accord you still have to drill or pop out the plugs over the passages. I used silicone because I had it handy, I stressed using very little because I know it can effect the O2. Keep the comments coming Les, they keep me honest.
I have a 2000 Accord LX with 144,000. My CheckEngine light came on. My mechanic told me that Honda EGR valves rarely need to be replaced, but that the passage around it and into the intake manifold DO need to have the carbon cleaned from the valves. So cleaned, yes, but replaced, no. The mechanic who worked on my car told me that it would require several hours. It took under two hours.
Eric,thanks for your video got p0401 on my Honda accord 2000 and I ask my local car garage to fix it they said it will cost me £419 for the egr valve and not cleaning the egr port passages they said petrol engines doesn't block only diesel engines according to that car garage but since I watched your video I didn't believed on them,done all the cleaning on EGR port passages today for almost 5hrs.Thanks again Eric.
ERIC, You are the super man....i feel myself so luck that i found you and it got me rid of my all my car issues; no one was able to diagnose and repair it...they were just taking my the horse ride....Awesome work man...God bless you...If i come to Ohio, i would definitely not go without meeting you.Thanks a millionnnnn!!
Thanks for making EGR cleaning video. It really helped. I have 97 Acrura CL with 160K miles, and experienced this surging problem (as you described) 3 years ago. Amber engine check light turns on once a while. I took my Acrua CL to dealer 3 years ago, but they could not find out the problem because it was intermittent. I have to reset car's computer by unplugging the battery to make the amber check engine light off. After cleaning up the EGR passage, it felt like it was brand new.
I had same model, but 1998 Honda Accord, as well as the same EGR code P0401. I followed Eric's instruction, open the exhausted manifold, guess what, I got the exactly the same EGR port plugged solidly. After I cleaned the port, the code clear up and without changing EGR valve as car dealer or auto part seller recommended. Thank you very much EricTheCarGuy!!!! The most important thing is you saved us bunch of moneys!!!! I sincerely recommend this detailed video to anyone has the similar problems.
One of these 5th generation Accords no, maybe other engines you would need to. To give yourself some more room, you COULD, but not necessary. To respond to your second part of the question, typically yes if you take the gasket off you will need to replace it. I say typically, as it is an as needed basis.
My 97 accord thanks you greatly, Eric. Your videos on these older honda engines are the best. PO401 is a new symptom for her. As well as a PO715 (possibly because she's running a bit warm?). 308800 miles after getting back from Hocking Hills Ohio. She really isn't used to those uphill pulls after 5 hours of travel from flatland SE Michigan. 4 days of hiking the wilderness, and its back into the garage we go. Thanks for helping me get smart enough to be dangerous. Staying dirty!
Nice.. i tried my 99 Accord.. cleaned and cleaned but to no avail i failed inspection..has to replace the EGR valve,Solenoid and Diaphragm.. 200 bucks total,drive cycle done and it passed.Sometimes you just cant clean everything it must be replaced.
I cant wait to clean my EGR passages tomorrow afternoon after I finish a Valve lash adjustment on my 01 CRV. Thanks to Eric the car guy videos I fixed just about everything a few years ago! That was at 145k. Im at 205k now. Thanks for all the help Eric!! Stay Dirty Friend!
Youz a legend. Have the same engine. F22B1. Compression at 180. New plugss ,wire,distributor,fuel pump,fuel filter and still sputtered. But a freakin 20 minut egr cleaning and now it runs like a champ. Wish i found this vid a few hundred bucks ago.
ETCG, thank you very much for a very effective walk-through. Just did this to the 95 Honda Accord that I just bought, and the results were immediate. No more low-end stumbling, and lot's more response with acceleration.
these cars are pretty easy to work on. Almost everything uses a 10, 12, or 14mm socket, until you get into more major stuff. and there are lots of helpful youtube videos like this one to walk you through. Get your hands dirty! There are few things as satisfying as fixing your car yourself, hearing that purr, and knowing those hundreds even thousands of dollars are still in your pocket and not the mechanic's! I started working on cars with no previous knowledge or training, I just figured "It's designed to be assembled/disassembled relatively easily, it can't be that hard to figure out!" and when you get frustrated or stuck on something (it happens) then there are angels like Eric to come to the rescue!
I don't need to tell you what kind of person you are, it's very apparent. But poking jokes and overall disrespect about your husband is pretty low,i feel sorry for him and he could probably do better than a b**ch like you.
Great video! I performed the same operation (no pun intended) on my '96 Accord. Worked like a charm. I cleaned up the EGR and all the ports but was still getting the error code for EGR. I decided to get a new EGR and install it ditching the old one. Very easy procedure, thanks for sharing Mr. Eric.
I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets and cleaning the valves, initially i had an air leak and surge but found out the intake bolts needed more torque. FYI it's not easy to reach some of those bolts.
I know you probably won’t see this, but thank you so much! I was driving home tonight and the check engine light came on and was hoping it wasn’t too bad. For a 97 Accord with 222,300 miles on it, it’s holding up pretty good!
@EricTheCarGuy Gathered enough courage and followed the instructions in your video and had no problems in cleaning up the EGR port holes and channels on my accord 97. All because of this great video!
Thank you .I did this in my driveway in 45 min. Did the trick three of four ports totally clogged. Saved 75 bucks on plugs cap and wires. Thanks again.
With the help of your video I cleaned the EGR passages and ports on my 97 accord. The video was excellent and made my job so much easier. Cudos to you. The engine runs smoother and the service engine light stays off. Thanks for your help with the video.
THANK YOU so much for this vid! I just bought a 96 accord with only 150,000 miles and pretty mint! I did have a EGR code. I followed what you did and they all were cliogged! Complete cleaning and perfect!
This is the best most informative video i have ever seen. Been having surging problem with my 96 accord and was just about to clean the EGR valve and was not sure about how to attack the ports. Great video!
@EricTheCarGuy Good info. Thanks! I finally got the bedeviling bolts off the EGR valve to remove and inspect it. The valve holds a vacuum and was somewhat caked up, was not blocked or restriced. Cleaned it up. Looking at the amount of carbon stacked up at the entry to the egr rail, I'm betting the inlets are totally blocked with the same stuff. Gonna just drill a hole in them big enough to use a coat hanger and poke and stir to create an opening. Thanks again for the wise words.
@holmesnmanning I'm not sure what your asking but the purpose of cleaning these out is to remove the hard carbon deposits that are causing a restriction in flow. The best way to remove these deposits is scrape out what you can and use a cleaner that dissolves the rest of the deposits.
Great how-to video. I watched this a couple of times and then cleaning the EGR ports on my 97 Accord (202K miles) was a piece of cake! Every port was plugged as well as the channels in the port cover. Car runs much smoother now. Maybe I'll even get a little better mileage out of the deal. Thanks!
just finished cleaning my egr passages. great video thank you.. couldnt have done it without you! after breaking loose all of the carbon i vacuumed as well as i could and yet the engine still sputtered after first start lol. by the way everyone, use silicone lubricant on fuel injectors . it really is a bugger getting them in without it lol.
:::UPDATE::: This mourning I performed this clean on my 97 VTEC Accord, yes the passages were SUPER clogged. I haven't been able to drive it much yet, but when I do, I'll let you know if in fact the clogged passages were the cause of the hesitation I mentioned in your other video. P.S.* your video are the shiznittle, with your help this job was much easier than I originally thought, please keep up the Awesome work!!!
@EricTheCarGuy Just got back from work and took it off. All 4 were completely clogged and so was the plate. Its all back together and it seems that the car performs better, Just seems smoother! Thank you very much! Now im just waiting for my check engine light to kick off so I can inspect it :)
Sweet, I'm glad you got what you were looking for there. EGR is something I defiantly plan to cover in a future video but I'm glad you got your answer now rather than waiting for me to get to it, there's still soo much more to cover.
Eric your my Honda Guru! I've done this to both of my accords. the 96 did the mini nosedive on the highway a few times. Not my 95 tho, however bother were really clogged and nasty. I even tried sea foam before doing this and I'll tell you what it wasn't enough. I wish more mechanics did this with a tune up since its so simple and virtually takes no time. I cleaned the 95 then sea foamed it, seemed to help and kick out a lot of junk!
I have watched a few of your videos and you always come through. I like how you explain what went wrong and why. You give a great hands on presentation that allows a "Home Mechanic" the know how to do it. I appreciate what you do Thank You!
@EricTheCarGuy They might have started using these with the 94-97 gen accords. I have a 94 accord and it has this type of egr passage and I just cleaned them using your video. All of the holes were cloogedto the rim with carbon. I actually feel the car running better after the cleaning. Thanks for a great vid Eric
This helps a lot, my check engine light came on not too long ago, and when I took it in today for a diagnostic, this came up, along with Cylinder 3 Misfire, which the tech said could be caused by clogged EGR passages. Gotta search for my Shop Vac again...
@topgrain EGR is there to keep down NOx emissions which are created during conditions of high temperature and pressure. This is probably the worst greenhouse gas as it is directly related to smog. The EGR system re-routs exhaust gasses back to the combustion chamber to help cool the mix and in turn keeps NOx emissions down. An EGR system allows for higher compression ratios so that more power can be produced in the engine as well.
Wow , Eric thank you for such an awesome video . I read a lot of postings on this EGR problem but no good videos . The fact that you took the plate off and I got to see the underside of it was a big help , passages make sense now . I'm more confident now about removing the fuel injectors too . thanks again .
@joesimmons90 Passages are just that, a place for the recirculated exhaust to flow. The condensation and carbon in the exhaust cause the clogs. EGR is there to help cool the combustion chamber while under load to help prevent NOx emissions. The inert exhaust gas displaces some of the mix and cools the combustion chamber helping to prevent the NOx and any preignition or detonation that might result from too much heat in the combustion chamber.
I appreciate ALL the information you share, the hard work you put into the videos and the time you take to logically and thoroughly explain things! THANK YOU SIR and GOD BLESS!
Well damn. I've watched this video many times before and it NEVER clicked in my mind that the symptoms I'm getting in my '91 Accord that I've been confusing with a bad torque converter are actually probably related to clogged EGR... gonna dive into removing that intake manifold and cleaning the ports to see if the shudder on acceleration and at constant load goes away. I'll let you know, thanks Eric!
Eric, great vid, thanks for still having it up. My 96 4 cyl VTEK just started popping the P0401 code at 254K mi. Guessing this is the problem since the EGR rail has never been cleaned out since I bought the car with 92K mi. Looks like it's important to be vacuuming each of the four holes as they're being cleaned out to prevent gungy carbon going down into the intake and probably eventually gunking up the cat.
@killersoundz Not O2 sensor. Clean the EGR passages to start and inspect the rest of the ignition system for faults as misfires under load are often ignition related. If you don't find anything there you might check the fuel pressure just to make sure you have good pressure as low fuel pressure can cause that problem but I hardly ever see a bad Honda fuel pump but if someone replaced it with an aftermarket pump this may be the source of the problem.
@K4N088 A lean code is hardly ever a sensor, cleaning the EGR passages is a good start, that can sometimes set that code. You might also check for vacuum leaks.
Holy freaking god, thank you. I cleaned my EGR valve with throttle body cleaner hoping my check engine light would go away since I wasn't sure how to go about the passages, but now this puts things into perspective. I wish I found this earlier to save me some trouble. Me and my 1997 Accord with 232,000 miles on it should be in good condition when I can look at it tomorrow, thx =P
Eric. YOU ARE THE MAN! Great job video editing and thanks for all the time you put into this post. You just saved me $700 and helped me pass emissions. I can't thank you enough.
Just did this on my 94 Honda accord. It didn't have a failed emissions test however some performance and fuel economy issues. Not only were the passages dirty but the fuel injectors too. It's a whole different car now. 👍
@@terrywedlake Good thing is it isn't that difficult to do. Just be careful with the fuel injectors. I had one of the o rings on one buckle and fuel started spraying out the rail. Yes! Some of us still choose to keep our old Honda's around. 264,000 miles on mine and still going strong. Best of luck to you!
@kobevsjordan310 I'm glad I was able to help and you got the job done. I sometimes take a shop vac to the gunk to help get it out but if it gets into the engine it would burn up and I don't think would present a real problem. I appreciate the donation if you decide to send it, thanks for the comment.
@1PARADOXXX That may be a different issue, first try checking the valve by applying vacuum to it while the engine is at idle, if the engine stalls or stumbles the EGR valve is working, if it doesn't replace the valve. That's a good place to start.
Remove the intake manifold, flip it over and you will see a passage just behind the throttle body that's probably clogged with carbon. Clean that out, re-install the manifold and you should be good to go. Clear the check engine light by removing the (-) battery cable before you test drive it.
Awesome! I used a old piece of speedo cable in a multi speed drill to clean the passage of a Mustang. Soaking with WD-40 sometimes help. I uses a lil bit of assy greese on the o'ring of the injectors. Vasoline would work as well and can be had at the cornor store. Your a Super Tech Eric.. Rock on! Les
@authmaax EGR actually lowers NOx emissions when the engine is under load. It can also be argued that with an EGR you can run higher compression since it helps reduce combustion temperatures.
@RodgersResearch The gunk inside the intake is actually from the PCV system as it recirculates the air inside the engine back into the intake in controlled amounts, as an engine wears out however it creates more of that gunk and clogs the intake more as a result.
@shinghi Your performance problem may be caused by the EGR as that is the classic symptom and that vintage Accord will not set a CEL for a low flow problem. As for the transmission make sure the fluid is at the proper level and that you are using Honda automatic transmission fluid for starters.
Eric, Thanx so much for the detailed video; I isolated the problem, followed the video...and voila!, the Check Engine Light is now off, ready for the annual inspection. Thanx again for your expertise.
@c72zero It won't cause surging on deceleration but rather on acceleration or steady cruse. The valve is rarely the problem it's more likely the passages will be clogged like in this video so a stuck open valve is not likely, when they fail they usually don't open and you don't really notice a performance problem at all.
@CRN090 It doesn't sound like an EGR problem. If you have any check engine lights start with diagnosing the causes of those first then look to the fuel and ignition systems for faults. It would be best to find out what is missing when the problem happens, spark or fuel, find that and your half way home to finding the problem. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@topgrain Dont worry about the "crossover" passage as that is not what clogs, it clogs at the inlets to the individual runners, the reason for this is because it is farther from the hot gasses coming out of the valve. Some carbon cleaners are better than others, I'm going to leave that choice to you however.
@journeyquest1 The blockage is actually caused by condensation and the soot that normally exists as a result of combustion, remember the mixture is mostly air so you are dealing with all the dirt and impurities in the air in addition to the fuel. They have improved on the EGR design since then and they don't clog up as much as they used to on late model cars.
That is a lean code for bank one, this doesn't mean the O2 sensor is bad but rather that there is a lean condition detected by the sensor. This can be caused by an EGR problem when the passages get clogged. If memory serves you need to remove the intake manifold and clean the passage that goes to the EGR. It's not a bad idea to replace the valve but not necessary. The problem could also be a fuel psi regulator or vacuum leak, I would start with the EGR passage.
@Sorcerer1984 I don't think running seafoam through the intake is going to clean the EGR ports for a couple of reasons, first it would not come in direct contact with the clogged passages as they are above the intake runners and anything sucked in would go below them. Also those carbon deposits get pretty hard and even using a drill it's sometimes hard to clean them out. My preferred method is to clean out the passages manually.
I believe this is what is wrong with my 94 Honda Accord. I have a code 14 . I have enjoyed your videos and I was led to changing my fuel injectors and came across carbon. Our next step is to clean the manifold. My car had an idle surge but has since ceased the more we clean out the carbon. It still jerks me around really bad in 1st and 2nd gear and in higher gears I can still feel the engine surge a tiny bit. I am hoping this is the last step to my one year battle with Honda Asthma. My Honda aka Christine is my baby. Hoping to one day enjoy driving her again.
You are correct with #2. Heat makes the reaction more efficient, operating temp is 600ºF, that's why the single wires are placed as close to the engine as possible. Later O2 sensors have heaters to bring them up to temp more rapidly.
It's not a question of replacement, brake calipers need to be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated periodically for best operation. The Honda recommendation is about every 30K, this seems to be a good number for most makes.
@2URBO2 I understand your position but I'm afraid I don't agree. EGR not only helps reduce harmful emissions but also allows for higher compression ratios which can translate to more power. I suspect the cars that don't have EGR use much larger catalytic converters to deal with NOx emissions but I'm not familiar with their systems so I can't really say one way or the other.
@wangbungal It's just carburetor cleaner. Hard to say if you have the same problem as it could be an issue with the operation of the EGR valve or the sensor that senses flow. I would start by checking to see if it is clogged though as that is the most common cause of that code.
An often overlooked area is the battery cables, especially if they are of those cheep aftermarket variety. They tend to corrode and cause a huge voltage drop. You might want to check into it and clean them up. Also, I don't think taking a reading at the cig lighter is the best reading, I would take it off of the battery or the positive of the alternator.
thanks Eric, I'm gonna do it to my 95 honda odyssey, it just fail smog test, every thing pass, but in NO(PPM) fails, max is 517, ave is 101, meas is 795. once again I really appreciate all your information, I'm saving a lot money in simple details...Gby
@DroppdHonda To be honest I don't know off the top of my head but a quick visual inspection will show if you have a plate or not, if you don't see the plate you will see 4 plugs, one in each runner for the EGR.
Cleaning the throttle body is not a bad idea, especially if you have a sticky throttle. I think your on the right track to replace the valve, if it's vacuum operated you can hook up a vacuum pump to it while the engine is running, if when you add vacuum the engine stalls or wants to the valve is good, if not, it's bad. Thanks for watching.
@killersoundz That's not a problem with the fuel pump but rather the baffles inside the tank. I wonder if the tank suffered some kind of damage at some point and is starving the pump when the level gets down far enough. If the pump was the problem the car wouldn't run at all.
It's been done for years. It's not so easy to reprogram however, in many cases you have to swap out some of the hardware in particular the PROM chip to do any reprogramming. In fact these days you will find many at the drag strip with a laptop plugged into the car not only creating the fuel maps but also recording them.
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
![P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow [FIX] for 2002 Honda Accord (new discovery found)](/img/1.gif)
Thanx ALOT , after going to 2 different mechanics for having weird performence loss between 2250 and 2750 rpm on my accord 97 vtec, both received the same code of missfire on cyl 1 so i changed spark plugs, cables, rotor and 2 more things that i do not know the translation from french :) but still had the same issue and code, after checking on you tube i came uppon your video and actualy went to the garage and suggested to them that maybe this was the problem wich they ignored... so after 1 year with the same problem i decided to do it myself outside at -20 degrees and went actualy very well took 20-25 minutes to take everything of including the egr valve and everything was clogged... 15 minutes to clean and 15 to put everything back on... now it purr`s like a brand new kitten and gained very good performance :)
Eric it is well over 10 years that you made the EGR video and I want to thank you for posting it. I am repairing a car that I just bought to give to a family in need and wanted to save money fixing it so I did everything myself. Thanks to you I got this 2001 Honda Accord running like new. It has 217,000 miles on it and with your help you can't even tell its that old.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your guidance my man
You are the best!
No Car can beat a Honda..keeps going and going
Awesome video, saved my butt. 97 accord. It was gunked up completely with the engine light on. 60 minutes later, no light, better performance, it's all good. Thanks Eric, you are awesome!
I just did this this morning to my Accord. Very easy to do. It took all of an hour from start to finish. This video was a GREAT help. Eric's videos are the best on here for repair help.
I used my shop vac to suck the carbon out of the intake, I also pushed a small drill bit in BY HAND, to make sure the passages were fully clean. Pulled my EGR valve and it was not blocked, the passages were, 3 out of 4, 2 completely. I reset my computer and erased the code, I ran it for about 15 minutes up to op temp, time will tell if it's also a bad EGR valve. I'm not buying one until I KNOW it needs one. Naturally when I carefully pulled the injectors like Eric said. One decided to stay in and pop out of the rail, not a big deal, it went back in without an issue. No leaks.
Thanks for the video Eric!
Thanks for another great video Eric ! I've been going through your old videos and using them to help fix typical issues on my son's '96 Accord DX with 141k.
Just did all the seals, and belts under the timing cover and saved it from going to the junk yard with it's previous owner. It's a survivor and will make a great first car for my son. It runs awesome, and has no rust ! Thanks again for all you do!
My 1993 accord failed smog test for NO. I knew if I took it to a mechanic I would end up with a new catalytic converter, then an EGR valve then this repair. I followed this video and found the EGR passages completely clogged. Cleaned it put it back together and it passed smog. You are awesome, thanks!!!
Eric I have a 97 Accord ,,,When I started it yesterday it ran perfect ,,,I then cut it off and cleaned the engine and rinsed the engine with no power hooked ..I allowed engine to completely dry ..Had no fuel in the fuel rail at all this morning ..Checked my fuel pump and was no humming ,,messed with the fuel pump connection and now I have fuel in the rail..That is something I will do tomorrow as you described GUNK in the egr area of the fuel rail ..Thanks And Bet Your Ass I stay nasty ,,,I buy cars and fix them and sell them ..30 years I have bought and sold ,,Your channel teaches me stuff God Bless
I agree. God Bless EricTheCarGuy. :) I suggest you become a member at www.ericthecarguy.com. It's much better to ask automotive questions there. Many great mechanics and DIYers there. I may have more time than Eric to answer questions on RUclips. (He's quicker to help out over there.) I do it because it's my "next step" in learning beyond videos and cranking on cars. When I give people feedback, they give feedback and we all end up learning together.
No fuel pressure? I'd check to listen for the pump first. 2nd check the fuse. Try bridging the relay that runs the fuel pump, or trade another relay in the car. It usually makes something else not work, but if the fuel pump works, you've now found your problem. (Swapping relays, I've fixed "bad" starters and fuel pumps. Obviously, we still needed an additional working relay, lol)
If none of the above helped and you're not building fuel pressure. Fuel pump time...Eric has a video on it. Without him I wouldn't have found 2 bad fuel pumps now. :) . . . if the system has a return on it the fuel pressure regulator has an effect along with the filter, but probably not the problem unless either one is clogged.
@TravisKiller If I'm honest it might be a bit because I have other videos that I need to post first but I do plan to work that in at some point. Thanks for your comments.
Thanks a lot again. I will try this on my Honda cause the EGR code came on and it feels like it's about to turn off when I come to a stop. You have helped plenty of times when I have questions about symptoms of my car.
Did It work? Mine just started doing the same thing and same code
This 12 year old video is still relevant to my 25 year old Accord.
Weird serging> ✔️
Check engine light ✔️
Egr code p0410 ✔️
85 dollar replacement egr valve that did nothing to solve the problem ✔️ ✔️
Thanks for all the great content over the years 👍
i just got done doing this same job to my 97 accord ex... THANK YOU SO MUCH!~
I've seen the speedo trick used before, very effective, great suggestion. On these Honda's it wouldn't work however, they made the passages at 90º to the main passage so on the old style Accord you still have to drill or pop out the plugs over the passages. I used silicone because I had it handy, I stressed using very little because I know it can effect the O2. Keep the comments coming Les, they keep me honest.
I have a 2000 Accord LX with 144,000. My CheckEngine light came on. My mechanic told me that Honda EGR valves rarely need to be replaced, but that the passage around it and into the intake manifold DO need to have the carbon cleaned from the valves. So cleaned, yes, but replaced, no. The mechanic who worked on my car told me that it would require several hours. It took under two hours.
Eric,thanks for your video got p0401 on my Honda accord 2000 and I ask my local car garage to fix it they said it will cost me £419 for the egr valve and not cleaning the egr port passages they said petrol engines doesn't block only diesel engines according to that car garage but since I watched your video I didn't believed on them,done all the cleaning on EGR port passages today for almost 5hrs.Thanks again Eric.
I think your videos are great. You are a great teacher! Thank You.
ERIC, You are the super man....i feel myself so luck that i found you and it got me rid of my all my car issues; no one was able to diagnose and repair it...they were just taking my the horse ride....Awesome work man...God bless you...If i come to Ohio, i would definitely not go without meeting you.Thanks a millionnnnn!!
Hi Eric, at 4:12 you mention, "I ran some cleaner through them." What kind of cleaner were you talking about? Thanks!
Most likely brake clean
Thanks for making EGR cleaning video. It really helped.
I have 97 Acrura CL with 160K miles, and experienced this surging problem (as you described) 3 years ago. Amber engine check light turns on once a while. I took my Acrua CL to dealer 3 years ago, but they could not find out the problem because it was intermittent. I have to reset car's computer by unplugging the battery to make the amber check engine light off. After cleaning up the EGR passage, it felt like it was brand new.
Thanks Eric, good video. Just did mine, very simple 1 hour job. To the 47 idiots who 'thumbed down' this video - Get a life.
Just did my daughters 1997 Accord. Yikes what a mess. All ports were completely closed off. Runs great now. Thanks Eric (ETCG).
I just did this to my acura and it's like a completely different car
I had same model, but 1998 Honda Accord, as well as the same EGR code P0401. I followed Eric's instruction, open the exhausted manifold, guess what, I got the exactly the same EGR port plugged solidly. After I cleaned the port, the code clear up and without changing EGR valve as car dealer or auto part seller recommended. Thank you very much EricTheCarGuy!!!! The most important thing is you saved us bunch of moneys!!!! I sincerely recommend this detailed video to anyone has the similar problems.
Do I have to remove my valve cover to do this, and if so do I have to replace the valve cover gasket if mine isn't cracked? Thank you Eric.
One of these 5th generation Accords no, maybe other engines you would need to. To give yourself some more room, you COULD, but not necessary.
To respond to your second part of the question, typically yes if you take the gasket off you will need to replace it. I say typically, as it is an as needed basis.
My 97 accord thanks you greatly, Eric. Your videos on these older honda engines are the best. PO401 is a new symptom for her. As well as a PO715 (possibly because she's running a bit warm?). 308800 miles after getting back from Hocking Hills Ohio. She really isn't used to those uphill pulls after 5 hours of travel from flatland SE Michigan. 4 days of hiking the wilderness, and its back into the garage we go. Thanks for helping me get smart enough to be dangerous. Staying dirty!
Nice.. i tried my 99 Accord.. cleaned and cleaned but to no avail i failed inspection..has to replace the EGR valve,Solenoid and Diaphragm.. 200 bucks total,drive cycle done and it passed.Sometimes you just cant clean everything it must be replaced.
Hello Mike, I have a 2001 Honda that I may have to do the same thing on. What would you say is the average labor cost for this work?
200$ my 98 v6 accord sedan
I cant wait to clean my EGR passages tomorrow afternoon after I finish a Valve lash adjustment on my 01 CRV. Thanks to Eric the car guy videos I fixed just about everything a few years ago! That was at 145k. Im at 205k now. Thanks for all the help Eric!! Stay Dirty Friend!
Emission pass after the cleaning.
Youz a legend. Have the same engine. F22B1. Compression at 180. New plugss ,wire,distributor,fuel pump,fuel filter and still sputtered. But a freakin 20 minut egr cleaning and now it runs like a champ. Wish i found this vid a few hundred bucks ago.
Now the ULEV vTec motor, how does one clean the EGR passage out of those MOTORS???
swap in an h22
ETCG, thank you very much for a very effective walk-through. Just did this to the 95 Honda Accord that I just bought, and the results were immediate. No more low-end stumbling, and lot's more response with acceleration.
I wish I had a husband like you that knows about cars. My husband don't know anything and I always have to look for a mechanic to fix my car 😠😠
Women can fix cars too! All you need for this one is a socket set, a screwdriver and some random cleaners and lubricants.
do go ho-ing if you haven't already bc he don't fix cars
+Monasty Smoov *don't
these cars are pretty easy to work on. Almost everything uses a 10, 12, or 14mm socket, until you get into more major stuff. and there are lots of helpful youtube videos like this one to walk you through. Get your hands dirty! There are few things as satisfying as fixing your car yourself, hearing that purr, and knowing those hundreds even thousands of dollars are still in your pocket and not the mechanic's!
I started working on cars with no previous knowledge or training, I just figured "It's designed to be assembled/disassembled relatively easily, it can't be that hard to figure out!" and when you get frustrated or stuck on something (it happens) then there are angels like Eric to come to the rescue!
I don't need to tell you what kind of person you are, it's very apparent. But poking jokes and overall disrespect about your husband is pretty low,i feel sorry for him and he could probably do better than a b**ch like you.
Great video! I performed the same operation (no pun intended) on my '96 Accord. Worked like a charm. I cleaned up the EGR and all the ports but was still getting the error code for EGR. I decided to get a new EGR and install it ditching the old one. Very easy procedure, thanks for sharing Mr. Eric.
I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets and cleaning the valves, initially i had an air leak and surge but found out the intake bolts needed more torque. FYI it's not easy to reach some of those bolts.
I know you probably won’t see this, but thank you so much! I was driving home tonight and the check engine light came on and was hoping it wasn’t too bad. For a 97 Accord with 222,300 miles on it, it’s holding up pretty good!
@EricTheCarGuy
Gathered enough courage and followed the instructions in your video and had no problems in cleaning up the EGR port holes and channels on my accord 97. All because of this great video!
Thank you .I did this in my driveway in 45 min. Did the trick three of four ports totally clogged. Saved 75 bucks on plugs cap and wires. Thanks again.
With the help of your video I cleaned the EGR passages and ports on my 97 accord. The video was excellent and made my job so much easier. Cudos to you. The engine runs smoother and the service engine light stays off. Thanks for your help with the video.
THANK YOU so much for this vid! I just bought a 96 accord with only 150,000 miles and pretty mint! I did have a EGR code. I followed what you did and they all were cliogged! Complete cleaning and perfect!
This is the best most informative video i have ever seen. Been having surging problem with my 96 accord and was just about to clean the EGR valve and was not sure about how to attack the ports. Great video!
@EricTheCarGuy
Good info. Thanks! I finally got the bedeviling bolts off the EGR valve to remove and inspect it. The valve holds a vacuum and was somewhat caked up, was not blocked or restriced. Cleaned it up. Looking at the amount of carbon stacked up at the entry to the egr rail, I'm betting the inlets are totally blocked with the same stuff. Gonna just drill a hole in them big enough to use a coat hanger and poke and stir to create an opening. Thanks again for the wise words.
Thanks very much Eric ... I was able to help a family member clear out their EGR passages on a 1996 Accord with almost 400k km's. It was clogged.
@holmesnmanning I'm not sure what your asking but the purpose of cleaning these out is to remove the hard carbon deposits that are causing a restriction in flow. The best way to remove these deposits is scrape out what you can and use a cleaner that dissolves the rest of the deposits.
Great how-to video. I watched this a couple of times and then cleaning the EGR ports on my 97 Accord (202K miles) was a piece of cake! Every port was plugged as well as the channels in the port cover. Car runs much smoother now. Maybe I'll even get a little better mileage out of the deal. Thanks!
just finished cleaning my egr passages. great video thank you.. couldnt have done it without you! after breaking loose all of the carbon i vacuumed as well as i could and yet the engine still sputtered after first start lol. by the way everyone, use silicone lubricant on fuel injectors . it really is a bugger getting them in without it lol.
:::UPDATE::: This mourning I performed this clean on my 97 VTEC Accord, yes the passages were SUPER clogged. I haven't been able to drive it much yet, but when I do, I'll let you know if in fact the clogged passages were the cause of the hesitation I mentioned in your other video.
P.S.* your video are the shiznittle, with your help this job was much easier than I originally thought, please keep up the Awesome work!!!
@EricTheCarGuy
Just got back from work and took it off. All 4 were completely clogged and so was the plate. Its all back together and it seems that the car performs better, Just seems smoother! Thank you very much! Now im just waiting for my check engine light to kick off so I can inspect it :)
Sweet, I'm glad you got what you were looking for there. EGR is something I defiantly plan to cover in a future video but I'm glad you got your answer now rather than waiting for me to get to it, there's still soo much more to cover.
Eric your my Honda Guru! I've done this to both of my accords. the 96 did the mini nosedive on the highway a few times. Not my 95 tho, however bother were really clogged and nasty. I even tried sea foam before doing this and I'll tell you what it wasn't enough. I wish more mechanics did this with a tune up since its so simple and virtually takes no time. I cleaned the 95 then sea foamed it, seemed to help and kick out a lot of junk!
I have watched a few of your videos and you always come through. I like how you explain what went wrong and why. You give a great hands on presentation that allows a "Home Mechanic" the know how to do it. I appreciate what you do Thank You!
@EricTheCarGuy They might have started using these with the 94-97 gen accords. I have a 94 accord and it has this type of egr passage and I just cleaned them using your video. All of the holes were cloogedto the rim with carbon. I actually feel the car running better after the cleaning. Thanks for a great vid Eric
This helps a lot, my check engine light came on not too long ago, and when I took it in today for a diagnostic, this came up, along with Cylinder 3 Misfire, which the tech said could be caused by clogged EGR passages. Gotta search for my Shop Vac again...
@topgrain EGR is there to keep down NOx emissions which are created during conditions of high temperature and pressure. This is probably the worst greenhouse gas as it is directly related to smog. The EGR system re-routs exhaust gasses back to the combustion chamber to help cool the mix and in turn keeps NOx emissions down. An EGR system allows for higher compression ratios so that more power can be produced in the engine as well.
Wow , Eric thank you for such an awesome video . I read a lot of postings on this EGR problem but no good videos . The fact that you took the plate off and I got to see the underside of it was a big help , passages make sense now . I'm more confident now about removing the fuel injectors too . thanks again .
Great video Eric.I've done my 91where I had to drill them out..My Stepdaughter has a 97 and I am doing it tomorrow. Thanks Brother.
@joesimmons90 Passages are just that, a place for the recirculated exhaust to flow. The condensation and carbon in the exhaust cause the clogs. EGR is there to help cool the combustion chamber while under load to help prevent NOx emissions. The inert exhaust gas displaces some of the mix and cools the combustion chamber helping to prevent the NOx and any preignition or detonation that might result from too much heat in the combustion chamber.
I appreciate ALL the information you share, the hard work you put into the videos and the time you take to logically and thoroughly explain things! THANK YOU SIR and GOD BLESS!
Well damn. I've watched this video many times before and it NEVER clicked in my mind that the symptoms I'm getting in my '91 Accord that I've been confusing with a bad torque converter are actually probably related to clogged EGR... gonna dive into removing that intake manifold and cleaning the ports to see if the shudder on acceleration and at constant load goes away. I'll let you know, thanks Eric!
Eric, great vid, thanks for still having it up. My 96 4 cyl VTEK just started popping the P0401 code at 254K mi. Guessing this is the problem since the EGR rail has never been cleaned out since I bought the car with 92K mi. Looks like it's important to be vacuuming each of the four holes as they're being cleaned out to prevent gungy carbon going down into the intake and probably eventually gunking up the cat.
@killersoundz Not O2 sensor. Clean the EGR passages to start and inspect the rest of the ignition system for faults as misfires under load are often ignition related. If you don't find anything there you might check the fuel pressure just to make sure you have good pressure as low fuel pressure can cause that problem but I hardly ever see a bad Honda fuel pump but if someone replaced it with an aftermarket pump this may be the source of the problem.
@TravisKiller That doesn't sound like it has anything to do with the EGR, you might want to check for vacuum leaks and check the idle circuit.
@K4N088 A lean code is hardly ever a sensor, cleaning the EGR passages is a good start, that can sometimes set that code. You might also check for vacuum leaks.
Excellent vid! All 4 were completely plugged and then some. Thanks for helping my 97 accord with 200k stay alive
Holy freaking god, thank you. I cleaned my EGR valve with throttle body cleaner hoping my check engine light would go away since I wasn't sure how to go about the passages, but now this puts things into perspective. I wish I found this earlier to save me some trouble. Me and my 1997 Accord with 232,000 miles on it should be in good condition when I can look at it tomorrow, thx =P
Eric. YOU ARE THE MAN! Great job video editing and thanks for all the time you put into this post. You just saved me $700 and helped me pass emissions. I can't thank you enough.
Just did this on my 94 Honda accord. It didn't have a failed emissions test however some performance and fuel economy issues. Not only were the passages dirty but the fuel injectors too. It's a whole different car now. 👍
Anthony Wigren going to do this right now on my 97. It just feels too slow these days. Happy to see that this video is still relevant.
@@terrywedlake Good thing is it isn't that difficult to do. Just be careful with the fuel injectors. I had one of the o rings on one buckle and fuel started spraying out the rail. Yes! Some of us still choose to keep our old Honda's around. 264,000 miles on mine and still going strong. Best of luck to you!
@ElPhantasm0 I'm glad to help, thanks for the comment, these are my favorite BTW.
Manifold pressure is directly proportional to engine load. It's kind of a lengthy explanation that I can do better in a future video.
@kobevsjordan310 I'm glad I was able to help and you got the job done. I sometimes take a shop vac to the gunk to help get it out but if it gets into the engine it would burn up and I don't think would present a real problem. I appreciate the donation if you decide to send it, thanks for the comment.
@1PARADOXXX That may be a different issue, first try checking the valve by applying vacuum to it while the engine is at idle, if the engine stalls or stumbles the EGR valve is working, if it doesn't replace the valve. That's a good place to start.
Was having issues with misfiring at partial throttle, cleaned the EGR passages out and it solved my problem.1995 Honda Accord 4cyl Automatic
Remove the intake manifold, flip it over and you will see a passage just behind the throttle body that's probably clogged with carbon. Clean that out, re-install the manifold and you should be good to go. Clear the check engine light by removing the (-) battery cable before you test drive it.
Awesome! I used a old piece of speedo cable in a multi speed drill to clean the passage of a Mustang. Soaking with WD-40 sometimes help. I uses a lil bit of assy greese on the o'ring of the injectors. Vasoline would work as well and can be had at the cornor store.
Your a Super Tech Eric.. Rock on!
Les
Eric you sir, are the man. I was having some major hesitation on my accelloration and i did this and no more problems
@authmaax EGR actually lowers NOx emissions when the engine is under load. It can also be argued that with an EGR you can run higher compression since it helps reduce combustion temperatures.
Thats Mind blowing that you know the surge as a symptom. Well mine is faint but its during acceleration and you for sure feel it slightly.
@RodgersResearch The gunk inside the intake is actually from the PCV system as it recirculates the air inside the engine back into the intake in controlled amounts, as an engine wears out however it creates more of that gunk and clogs the intake more as a result.
@shinghi Your performance problem may be caused by the EGR as that is the classic symptom and that vintage Accord will not set a CEL for a low flow problem. As for the transmission make sure the fluid is at the proper level and that you are using Honda automatic transmission fluid for starters.
Eric,
Thanx so much for the detailed video; I isolated the problem, followed the video...and voila!, the Check Engine Light is now off, ready for the annual inspection. Thanx again for your expertise.
@c72zero It won't cause surging on deceleration but rather on acceleration or steady cruse. The valve is rarely the problem it's more likely the passages will be clogged like in this video so a stuck open valve is not likely, when they fail they usually don't open and you don't really notice a performance problem at all.
I think you are one of the best mechanic on youtube, if not the best,
thank you for taking the time to make this videos.
@CRN090 It doesn't sound like an EGR problem. If you have any check engine lights start with diagnosing the causes of those first then look to the fuel and ignition systems for faults. It would be best to find out what is missing when the problem happens, spark or fuel, find that and your half way home to finding the problem.
Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@topgrain Dont worry about the "crossover" passage as that is not what clogs, it clogs at the inlets to the individual runners, the reason for this is because it is farther from the hot gasses coming out of the valve. Some carbon cleaners are better than others, I'm going to leave that choice to you however.
@journeyquest1 The blockage is actually caused by condensation and the soot that normally exists as a result of combustion, remember the mixture is mostly air so you are dealing with all the dirt and impurities in the air in addition to the fuel. They have improved on the EGR design since then and they don't clog up as much as they used to on late model cars.
That is a lean code for bank one, this doesn't mean the O2 sensor is bad but rather that there is a lean condition detected by the sensor. This can be caused by an EGR problem when the passages get clogged. If memory serves you need to remove the intake manifold and clean the passage that goes to the EGR. It's not a bad idea to replace the valve but not necessary. The problem could also be a fuel psi regulator or vacuum leak, I would start with the EGR passage.
Thank you for the help, I fixed my Acura CL '97 2.2 with this video. PRAISE GOD!!!
@Sorcerer1984 I don't think running seafoam through the intake is going to clean the EGR ports for a couple of reasons, first it would not come in direct contact with the clogged passages as they are above the intake runners and anything sucked in would go below them. Also those carbon deposits get pretty hard and even using a drill it's sometimes hard to clean them out. My preferred method is to clean out the passages manually.
I believe this is what is wrong with my 94 Honda Accord. I have a code 14 . I have enjoyed your videos and I was led to changing my fuel injectors and came across carbon. Our next step is to clean the manifold. My car had an idle surge but has since ceased the more we clean out the carbon. It still jerks me around really bad in 1st and 2nd gear and in higher gears I can still feel the engine surge a tiny bit. I am hoping this is the last step to my one year battle with Honda Asthma. My Honda aka Christine is my baby. Hoping to one day enjoy driving her again.
You are correct with #2. Heat makes the reaction more efficient, operating temp is 600ºF, that's why the single wires are placed as close to the engine as possible. Later O2 sensors have heaters to bring them up to temp more rapidly.
It's not a question of replacement, brake calipers need to be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated periodically for best operation. The Honda recommendation is about every 30K, this seems to be a good number for most makes.
@2URBO2 I understand your position but I'm afraid I don't agree. EGR not only helps reduce harmful emissions but also allows for higher compression ratios which can translate to more power. I suspect the cars that don't have EGR use much larger catalytic converters to deal with NOx emissions but I'm not familiar with their systems so I can't really say one way or the other.
@wangbungal It's just carburetor cleaner. Hard to say if you have the same problem as it could be an issue with the operation of the EGR valve or the sensor that senses flow. I would start by checking to see if it is clogged though as that is the most common cause of that code.
An often overlooked area is the battery cables, especially if they are of those cheep aftermarket variety. They tend to corrode and cause a huge voltage drop. You might want to check into it and clean them up. Also, I don't think taking a reading at the cig lighter is the best reading, I would take it off of the battery or the positive of the alternator.
@Mexicanorockero Actually it's even easier on a 2001 V6 because all you have to do is remove the upper intake plate. Thanks for the comment.
thanks Eric, I'm gonna do it to my 95 honda odyssey, it just fail smog test, every thing pass, but in NO(PPM) fails, max is 517, ave is 101, meas is 795.
once again I really appreciate all your information, I'm saving a lot money in simple details...Gby
There is plenty to keep me busy for some time happily, one day I will cover these topics.
@DroppdHonda To be honest I don't know off the top of my head but a quick visual inspection will show if you have a plate or not, if you don't see the plate you will see 4 plugs, one in each runner for the EGR.
Cleaning the throttle body is not a bad idea, especially if you have a sticky throttle. I think your on the right track to replace the valve, if it's vacuum operated you can hook up a vacuum pump to it while the engine is running, if when you add vacuum the engine stalls or wants to the valve is good, if not, it's bad. Thanks for watching.
@killersoundz That's not a problem with the fuel pump but rather the baffles inside the tank. I wonder if the tank suffered some kind of damage at some point and is starving the pump when the level gets down far enough. If the pump was the problem the car wouldn't run at all.
@MrStevilKneivel Saving people money is one of my favorite things. Thanks for your comment.
It's been done for years. It's not so easy to reprogram however, in many cases you have to swap out some of the hardware in particular the PROM chip to do any reprogramming. In fact these days you will find many at the drag strip with a laptop plugged into the car not only creating the fuel maps but also recording them.