Wow, man. Way to be the only person on RUclips to figure out this *clearly important* solution. My tailpipe exhaust has been nasty since getting the car, and I’m looking forward to getting the EGR system working properly again. Gratitude. Edit: Also, as a PSA to others-don’t forget to change your PCV valve while you’re at it. They only last so long. Mine failed and started pushing oil outa the front and rear main seals, and impossibly even out of the air temp sensor removed in this video. It’s a cheap part ($3, or $20 for OEM Honda), and extremely easy to replace. Thankfully I noticed the leaking quickly (puddles of oil under car) and changed the part fast enough that the seals didn’t get blown out. Stopped leaking. I never seem to remember, but it’s a regular interval replacement. Change every 30k mi, or definitely change it if it doesn’t rattle when shaken upon removal. Then again, mine did rattle, so don’t be cheap/lazy! Lastly, upon researching and panicking about the feasibility of replacing my rear main seal at home, I learned that a lot of this EGR and PCV nonsense is caused by natural oil. Good quality synthetic oil is superior here because it doesn’t vaporize as readily. Therefore less of it comes through the PCV valve, clogging the intake passages.
Just did this on my 01 V6 Accord. Finally, after several previous attempts the P0401 code, CEL, and TCS lights are off. I used carb cleaner, a gun cleaning brush and my air compressor to blow it out. I had a huge hunk of carbon fall out of the manifold. The car runs so much smoother now. Thank you for this awesome video!
You Deserve 10 million views bro. This is what I was looking for. I've changed the PVC Valve thinking it would remove the code but it did even worst job, my car was slipping on 2nd gear cause those guys at auto part gave me bigger PVC Valve, and it took me couple weeks to figure that out that I changed the PVC valve, then thanks God I didn't throw the old PVC and I put it back the old one, the car is not slipping anymore. Tomorrow when I wake up first thing I am going to do is what I've seen in this video then I will be happiest guy in the world because I have been looking to for this video for about 2 years. Again thanks Bro.
Thanks for this video. Yea I watched the other one and did that initial cleaning, bought a flipping new EGR valve, the error code came right back on within 20 miles. I am believing this is the cleaning it needs to get the flow right. Very helpful even 4 years later.
Hats off to you for finding this. I cleaned the egr everywhere else multiple times fighting off this p0401 code, but I never did this! It must be my problem. Thank you so much for uploading. What a terrible design from Honda for an intake manifold!
Dude...you are the man...been battling this problem for 4 years.. with limited success ..removed a golf ball sized chunk from the intake today...seems like the error code is finnaly gone
Big help. Cleaned out the other passages and still got the code so gonna do it again but remove the sensor on the side this time. None of the other vids say to do that.
I have done this several times but you must clean the passage between the intake and the EGR. I use an old speedometer cable connected ti a drill. Start with the square opening at the (removed) EGR and work the cable as you slowly turn the cable with the drill. It will push through and finally come out the top of the intake port-intake removed, of course. At that point, you can pull it back and forth and spray carb cleaner down the passage. Put a rag over the hole at the EGR end and blow compressed air through the port. A LOT of stuff will come out. DO THIS OF YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT. I AM NOT TELLING YOU TO DO THIS, JUST SAYING WHAT I DID. I kept doing this until nothing would come out. Remove the cable, reassemble-no CEL now for thousands of miles. Good luck!
Wow cant believe i missed this! I cant wait to see how much carbon i have in there thats insane.. i hope this solves my hest soak problem loss of power violent idle
Great job friend! I have done this to my V6 3 times and it's such a hassle, but l bet l have some stuck up in there too as it seems to last about two years. I have used untold cans of cleaner. I will put a brass brush on my drill and work it up thru there, got them at Harbor Freight. BTW, a guy named Igor showed how we don't have to take all the crap off behind the throttle body, saves a lot of time. Mine started throwing the catalyst code, now it's EGR-l;m sure it's that passage again.
Yes most def I got to pull apart my intake again and do this my light just came on again after driving 100 miles. I didn’t know about removing the sensor Thks
There a flex brush kit I use. Almost like the the snake for the drain. But with a brush head.. this on the Honda site and make my job east and faster.. by hand or drill. I started to use long zip tie cut at an angle and use B12 chemical.. eat the carbon just don't us it in the round her port.. good video for the dyi.
great find! I am getting ready to clean for P0401 and will do the extra bit. I have a gun cleaning kit with lots of small brushes so will get that a shot.
Anybody know the torque spec of that sensor on the manifold? Don’t want to over torque considering the manifold is aluminum and has a tendency to strip
usually when there is carbon buildup in the system it is from a egr cooler leak which caused the carbon to collect in the intake, due to the coolant residue.
it sounds like the throttle body lever may have accidentally been forced open or stuck open. It should close by itself but if something gets in the way it could stay open and cause revving
Wow, man. Way to be the only person on RUclips to figure out this *clearly important* solution. My tailpipe exhaust has been nasty since getting the car, and I’m looking forward to getting the EGR system working properly again. Gratitude.
Edit: Also, as a PSA to others-don’t forget to change your PCV valve while you’re at it. They only last so long. Mine failed and started pushing oil outa the front and rear main seals, and impossibly even out of the air temp sensor removed in this video. It’s a cheap part ($3, or $20 for OEM Honda), and extremely easy to replace. Thankfully I noticed the leaking quickly (puddles of oil under car) and changed the part fast enough that the seals didn’t get blown out. Stopped leaking.
I never seem to remember, but it’s a regular interval replacement. Change every 30k mi, or definitely change it if it doesn’t rattle when shaken upon removal. Then again, mine did rattle, so don’t be cheap/lazy!
Lastly, upon researching and panicking about the feasibility of replacing my rear main seal at home, I learned that a lot of this EGR and PCV nonsense is caused by natural oil. Good quality synthetic oil is superior here because it doesn’t vaporize as readily. Therefore less of it comes through the PCV valve, clogging the intake passages.
Just did this on my 01 V6 Accord. Finally, after several previous attempts the P0401 code, CEL, and TCS lights are off. I used carb cleaner, a gun cleaning brush and my air compressor to blow it out. I had a huge hunk of carbon fall out of the manifold. The car runs so much smoother now. Thank you for this awesome video!
@johnny Macon lucky fool. Jk ha
You Deserve 10 million views bro. This is what I was looking for. I've changed the PVC Valve thinking it would remove the code but it did even worst job, my car was slipping on 2nd gear cause those guys at auto part gave me bigger PVC Valve, and it took me couple weeks to figure that out that I changed the PVC valve, then thanks God I didn't throw the old PVC and I put it back the old one, the car is not slipping anymore. Tomorrow when I wake up first thing I am going to do is what I've seen in this video then I will be happiest guy in the world because I have been looking to for this video for about 2 years. Again thanks Bro.
Thanks for this video. Yea I watched the other one and did that initial cleaning, bought a flipping new EGR valve, the error code came right back on within 20 miles. I am believing this is the cleaning it needs to get the flow right. Very helpful even 4 years later.
Hats off to you for finding this. I cleaned the egr everywhere else multiple times fighting off this p0401 code, but I never did this! It must be my problem. Thank you so much for uploading. What a terrible design from Honda for an intake manifold!
Did u do it what were the results
@@sandyperez8020 no more codes. The engine runs great.
@@sm-ze1jfIm doing this today thank god and thank you for the answer
Dude...you are the man...been battling this problem for 4 years.. with limited success ..removed a golf ball sized chunk from the intake today...seems like the error code is finnaly gone
Big help. Cleaned out the other passages and still got the code so gonna do it again but remove the sensor on the side this time. None of the other vids say to do that.
I have done this several times but you must clean the passage between the intake and the EGR. I use an old speedometer cable connected ti a drill. Start with the square opening at the (removed) EGR and work the cable as you slowly turn the cable with the drill. It will push through and finally come out the top of the intake port-intake removed, of course. At that point, you can pull it back and forth and spray carb cleaner down the passage. Put a rag over the hole at the EGR end and blow compressed air through the port. A LOT of stuff will come out. DO THIS OF YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT. I AM NOT TELLING YOU TO DO THIS, JUST SAYING WHAT I DID. I kept doing this until nothing would come out. Remove the cable, reassemble-no CEL now for thousands of miles. Good luck!
Real old school mechanicking. Something I can understand. Thanks
Wow cant believe i missed this! I cant wait to see how much carbon i have in there thats insane.. i hope this solves my hest soak problem loss of power violent idle
Life saver man..! Ima do this tomorrow
Great job friend! I have done this to my V6 3 times and it's such a hassle, but l bet l have some stuck up in there too as it seems to last about two years. I have used untold cans of cleaner. I will put a brass brush on my drill and work it up thru there, got them at Harbor Freight. BTW, a guy named Igor showed how we don't have to take all the crap off behind the throttle body, saves a lot of time. Mine started throwing the catalyst code, now it's EGR-l;m sure it's that passage again.
Yes most def I got to pull apart my intake again and do this my light just came on again after driving 100 miles. I didn’t know about removing the sensor Thks
this is great...... What is the connection to the TCS light
Thankyou ☺️
there whas a service bulletin for this from honda 99-085 how to clean and install tube
This is the J series isn’t it?
I have a Honda 1997 with the same problem, do you think it work.
What’s the name of this part you cleaning out?
Upper air intake manifold
How many miles did your car have on it when you did this?
Does this apply to the 4 cylinder engines too?
Slightly different but yes it does.
There a flex brush kit I use. Almost like the the snake for the drain. But with a brush head.. this on the Honda site and make my job east and faster.. by hand or drill. I started to use long zip tie cut at an angle and use B12 chemical.. eat the carbon just don't us it in the round her port.. good video for the dyi.
So you didn’t disconnect batteries to do this? Some guy in another video did so I’m just asking
Probably should just to be safe
great find! I am getting ready to clean for P0401 and will do the extra bit. I have a gun cleaning kit with lots of small brushes so will get that a shot.
Great video!
WHAT IS THE TORQUE SPECS FOR THE INTAKE
TO REASSEMBLE
@@kountryboy9735 All 9 bolts/nuts on the intake manifold should be torqued to 16 ft-lbs.
Can you not see that port through the throttle body opening?
Roy Quesada no
Does ur car start?
it did ya
@@The231447LucidDevTeam does it help to start a 2001 honda accord v4
Anybody know the torque spec of that sensor on the manifold? Don’t want to over torque considering the manifold is aluminum and has a tendency to strip
16 ft pounds
great info...!!
usually when there is carbon buildup in the system it is from a egr cooler leak which caused the carbon to collect in the intake, due to the coolant residue.
thanks!
Ty mannn
Would this be the same process for a 2002 Honda accord?
Imma Wake thanks hun doing it now
Merry me
Seriously ty
a speedometer cable would have done the trik and polished to
did this now car is revving on its own...………………..
it sounds like the throttle body lever may have accidentally been forced open or stuck open. It should close by itself but if something gets in the way it could stay open and cause revving
👍 at the same time don’t forget to clean the port too which connect from top valve cover gasket to Egr port