Something you did touch on, but is worth mentioning to newbies. When removing a wheel, slacken the nuts off before jacking the car up. Then do a final tighten when back on the ground. If using a wrench that is.
@Yorkiepoocharlie Good luck with that all that will happen if it's a wheel without a brake. It will just spin when you try to undo the nuts/bolts. And if it does have a brake (like the hand brake) that's often not strong enough to stop the wheel rotating. The reason that tyre fitters can do if off the ground is they use a rattle gun.
@@andrew_koala2974 Is it possible to use a rattle gun at home? Then there is a choice between a conventional wrench and a rattle gun so "if" is correct English.
How many people have an impact wrench ?. Releasing the nuts before jacking is a safety issue. Nuts can be tightened most of the way up before putting back on ground, to ensure correct alignment.
Sir: May I compliment you on an excellent, informative video. I watch all your videos here in western Canada & you never fail to bring a smile to face. You do your viewers a great favour with your ACCURATE & timely advice, & the instructions for handling a wheel & its fasteners was superb. A simple thing for those of us who understand, but fraught with opportunity for disaster for the unknowing. Now that I have reached 80 years of age, I have an edge over those who are under 21 , because they already know everything, & you will not be amazed to learn that I learn things from your videos that I DID NOT know ! Obviously my late father was correct when he proclaimed that I did not possess sufficient brains to learn how to pound sand ! Thank you Sir!,.....& Happy New Year to you from the wind swept hinterlands of western Alberta, Canada.
Excellent video John. I’ve been using copper anti-sneeze for over 40 years on my wheel studs and hub faces. (Aluminum anti-seize if it touches Al wheels.) I’ve had numerous arguments with mechanics and “Wheel Techs” about the use. Thanks for the confirmation. The rest of your info is “spot on” also.
Had a big pot of that copper cote for nigh on 40 years. Lost count of the number of times I have praised the stuff when undoing something I did up a decade earlier. Its the Ming mole of lubes;)
Thanks John, Kinda stuff I was looking for to teach my son (getting close to driving age if he's ever allowed to go get his L plates). Nice to be able to say. "hey watch this on RUclips then we'll go do it on our cars out front" Makes him feel he has some prior knowledge and can have input into the process (especially if you ask what's the next step) instead of just Dad saying "Let me show you how to do this" These basics videos are priceless mate. Thanks again. PS, Don't exclude the Ming Molls, helps most Teen boy's I know pay attention to be sure they don't miss any Pearls of Wisdom passed down from a highly respected source ;) Cheers. I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand.
Did this some 10 years ago with my two oldest and the neighbor boy as his dad was deployed to Afghanistan. Our 2002 Camry needed a tire rotation and had a full sized spare. I showed them with the first tire, and each of them, the two boys and my oldest daughter, took a turn with a tire as part of the rotation. I"ve also had them under the hood checking oil, coolant, PS fluid and battery terminals. They were also given a demonstration of how to connect booster cables and got a chance to do so themselves. I also put all of my kids in a stick shift car before they got to drive an automatic, so they knew how that works. They all drive an automatic, but each has been exposed to the workings of a manual transmission with a real live 3rd pedal clutch.
I highly recommend everyone who doesn’t know how to change a spare tire read their car’s manual and try it out in their garage. It will give you an idea for the scope of the task and prepare you mentally for the time when you get a flat.
Living in Canada many years and now in NE 'Murica, my vehicles see a lot of salted roads in winter. I follow this procedure when switching from summer to winter wheels, but I also find it helpful (since the wheels are off completely) to smear a light coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub and around the centre ring. Otherwise, the wheels will sometimes stick on the hub. And no one needs to be pounding on a stuck wheel when the car is balanced on a flimsy jack at the side of the road. If this does happen, I'm sure everyone knows the trick of loosening the lug nuts just half a turn, dropping the car off the jack and then rocking it back an forth a few times with a sharp application of brakes
Can't tell you how much I appreciate this, John. I'm a fan of anti-seize, but it's been hard to explain to people how it changes the torque needed to maintain the same fastener stretch - especially since it seems most people don't understand that bolts are supposed to stretch at all.
I hit the subscribe button when I heard the phrase, "I would retort, what a load of shit." Priceless! Thank you Mad Matt for posting the link to this video.
John, the number of times I've been criticized for using copper grease on wheel nuts, thanks for the confirmation of my views. I also add a smear to the hub which prevents the alloy wheel binding.
John, I really like your videos and your "attitude" in your wording!!! LOL I ALWAYS put a "liitle" motor oil (a drop or two) on my vehicles' lug nuts and "other miscellaneous screws, bolts, nuts.... And in maintenance of my compliance with my Lifelong 60+ years, Shade Tree Mechanic's Certification, I NEVER USED A Torque Wrench on any nut, bolt, screw or whatever and NEVER had a problem with nuts or bolts being too loose or too tight. One of the major subjects in my pursuit of my Shade Tree Mechanic's Certificate was pre-calibrating your arms for tightening nuts and bolts (which of course I almost failed)!!! LOL A touch of never seize a'int gonna hurt...... Please keep up your GREAT videos!!!!!!!
Bloody Perfect! Spoken like a true Engineer, and Fitted like a True Fitter! Here's how I had a bolt tension problem once: Doing a Job - Out of stock of the specified bolt: M10 4.6 in a specific head. No Worries, rang-around and found some 8.8s, and additionally this job was Galv not zinc-plate - But she'll be right, right? We rattled-up the 8.8s in the usual manner . . . and over time they all came loose. The bolts are subject to a lot of weird forces and possibly movement, and M10 was overstrength for the stresses they normally experienced. The engineers opinion was that the design relied-upon the 4.6s stretching and largely seizing-up; also Galv behaves quite a bit different to Zinc. There was way too-little tension on the 8.8s and they just came-loose : we had to go back and add a lot of tension with Nylocs.
Lol, had to do a roadside tyre change on Saturday, in the middle of nowhere, with exactly the same issue. I was jumping on the wrench to get the nuts off. Great vid mate, Rattle gun me up
My dad taught me to use copper grease on wheel nuts and spark plug threads & nock a bit off the torque specs over 30 years ago, and yes I have had the same pot for over 20 years now and it looks like it'll last another 20 without emptying. Great stuff!
John, it's fun when you're ranting about criminal behavior or an injustice, but my favorite blogs of yours are when you are sharing tool and technical knowledge. You do it well and I always learn something useful.
John Cadogan explains this in great detail. Thanks. I wish you be more short to the point & reign on the Australian English , which is difficult for Canadians to grasp.🥹👏
Great advice! Living in America’s “rust belt” a wire brush, a can of brake clean, never seize, a sledgehammer and a torque wrench are mandatory for changing wheels and maintenance.
Nice PSA. Lots of people out there who have NEVER worked on their cars themselves and when the inevitable happens can't work it out from first principles. Cheers John.
Great video for those who want to give their cars that extra TLC and learn a few logical steps on how to make life easier on the road. I picked these methods up in the early 1970 when I lived with older 4x4s of that era. A touch of grease on the studs and nuts and any other sensitive bits that were regularly submerged during river crossings was normal practice. Just like greasing all the joints regularly to expel residue water. My personal favourite a modification to lever off the brake drums for cleaning. I drilled and tapped two diagonally opposed holes in the drum and used two 3/8" bolts in equal turns to lever off the drum which as Murphy's Law would have it always froze to the axle flange. This made the job quick and easy. Sand and dirt could be quickly removed, brake shoes and springs checked and pistons inspected for leaks. A smidgen of grease was always applied before reassembly.
With roadside assistance, I have gone with RAA as their membership is one the person, not the car. Most policies are registered to a vehicle meaning that you only have coverage when driving that car. But with it being on the person, you are covered regardless of the car you are driving. Very handy when you have several classic vehicles at home as well as the daily drivers. 2 memberships in our household instead of the 4 we would need with most other policies.
I just did a summer tire changeover on my GMC Safari and the wheel nuts wouldn't come off even with the rattle gun. Finally after hammering and using a breaker bar with an extension the rust finally let go. What a job that would have been impossible on the side of the road. With the new tires on, the wheel studs got a partial on one side coating of zinc anti-seize and the nuts were torqued on. The centre flange what centres the wheel is also coated. I use zinc as it is a sacrificial metal that will over time give up to the harder metals of the wheel components. Now I don't have to worry about changing a flat if necessary. Oh, for the doubters, i have been doing this for decades with no problems. The van was a recent purchase and the previous owner had not done this preventative measure.
Note: switch to ceramic grease, as this is recommended by most car and brake manufacturers and doesn't cause electrochemical corrosion on alu parts. Also apply it to the outside of the centering ring or the respective mating surface on the wheel, makes sure the wheel doesn't get stuck on that.
Kris M so the bendix brake lube... blue in colour could be used?. Supper high temp and doesn’t melt and spread...supposed its ok as used on the slide pins?
@@virgomonkey68 3M silicone paste works better than any of these super special brake grease compositions. www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Silicone-Paste/?N=5002385+3293194053&rt=rud
Henkel Nickle Anti Seize is where its at... We used it for dissimilar metal applications in site with 256kva high voltage substations with buzz bars and the like - was mandatory to be used everywhere... Great expensive stuff.
Once upon a time. When mechanics were more than lube techs and parts fitters.. This was common place at every service... I do it though as it not only saves the customer the potential bother, but potentially makes my life easier for the same reason.
@@iamasmurf1122 i know how you feel. I run a small shop myself and see it every day. Unfortunately the lack of regulation means there are people doing shit work for peanuts. And ultimately its the customer, who often knows no better than cheaper is better for their immediate concerns that enables it to happen too.
I'm a machinist and I agree with everything you just said. I would back off my torque wrench between uses though. Where's the MALS hat John? Put the campaign on hold due to the apocalypse?
Living in snow country in the U.S., I'm changing tires twice a year. WInter tires on, Winter tires off. I've always applied anti-seize to the wheel nuts ( or bolts). Someone else noted the wisdom of applying it around the center hub where the wheel centers. I'd never thought about using it on the nut/bolt face- I'll need to remember to do that. The availability of inexpensive Chinese tools has allowed me to carry an 18" breaker bar and correct socket in each car. Watch the sales and it can be done for under $20. It's a lot more secure than whatever the OEM wrench is. Again watch the sales and a Harbor Freight torque wrench can be had for $10. I do know someone who purchased one for each car. A few years ago, one of the car buff magazines tested them and they are accurate enough. I don't know that I'd assemble an engine with one but for wheel changes,just fine. The one item he did forget to mention was to recheck the torque of the nuts/bolts after driving a few miles. They can loosen up and a recheck can prevent some costly damage.
I would also recommend a small amount of anti seize around the centre hub. Wheels on newer cars are hubcentric so the hole in the centre of the wheel is a very close fit around the centre hub. This will often corrode making wheel removal very difficult, another great reason to carry that rubber mallet.
John. As you know, leverage is everything. Archimedes said it "Give me a lever and a fulcrum on which to put it, and i will lift the World." It applies to -------> you name it.
I spent a bunch of money on calibrated torque wrenches earlier this year, covering from 2 to 300 Nm across the three. Absolutely, definitively, THE best 250 quid I spent all year!
John good info clearly stated. Thanks for the 0.7 tip on reduced torque when using anti-size, I just guessed. My pet peeve is the knuckle drager at the tire store who uses an impact gun at full bore to tighten lug nuts. Once I found all the threads distorted on two hubs and had to replace all the studs. Since then whenever I have a tire shop rotate my tires when I get home I loosen the nuts and use my torque wrench.
Just did the wheel/tire swap on my F250, I like to use caliper grease on my lug bolts. It is ceramic based and will not effect braking if some gets on the rotor.
Good stuff sir. I always carry a breaker bar, proper socket and a 3” socket extension in my truck with it. But it’s also a 3500 so the lugs are a beast. BUT, my wife’s care also has the same setup, smaller of course, because those tools the cars comes with make it a PITA. I also agree with the anti seize, yes always.
The quality alignment shop I patronize uses the air-gun just to spin the nuts snug and then finishes with a torque wrench to proper spec. They are proud of that and list the torque spec. on the bill of sale initialed by the mechanic. And, if you are waiting for your car, you can watch them through window actually doing it on every car.
Hi John, I worked in workshops and car dealerships for 14 years or so, we also put anti-seize on the locating hubs as alloy wheel/steel hubs almost can seem to weld themselves together, and were just about impossible to get off if your were on the side of the road, VT to VZ commodores wore the worst. We always torqued wheel nuts so they were never over tightened. (though did not know I had to back them off wet) Anyway still to this day many people still just hang off the rattle gun and over tighten nuts (snap on & Milwaukee etc battery powered guns are more powerful then most of the old 1/2 pneumatic guns) so that is a real worry
FANTASTIC apocapie time-usage video John. Another of yours I can flick over to my teen boys for some valuable teaching. Thing is, I've gone through most of this with them (not ALL, I did learn a few things here today!) however when dad says it, well, it is in question. Having you present it in such a pro way and with some humour (priceless) is absolutely perfect. PLUS if I give you to them on a 'device' or a TV you have their attention immediately. Thank you John, very much appreciate your effort with these vids! (love the tip re the rubber hammer - news to me and I'm, REALLY old and been doing this forever :-)) Believe it or not I am going out tomorrow to get my very FIRST torque wrench and some of that wondrous Penrite grease. You had me at Penrite - Aussie an' all, PLUS great lubricants - it is all I use in my Sprint 6.
Thankyou, John, for some very useful info in this post. At my last car service the wheel nuts were put on so tight that when I needed to remove a wheel I broke the socket wrench. It was not a cheap socket but a German made Elora and I was not using a 'rattle gun' or a 'ghetto tube'.
Thanks JC, great job. I will take a leaf from your book and do the chore, as I observed that wheel removal was quite difficult when I had a guy plug a tyre for me recently. Plenty of reasons to make the job trouble free when having new tyres fitted also, when so much can go wrong.
It’s good to see you have found another way to loosen your nuts no Ming moles were injured in this demonstration thanks John haveing you’re nuts falling of one the road is not the best
@@GS-kh5se damn, i have about 15 batteries and almost all of the one+ tool range and in about 10 years i have had 1 battery die which looked to be one of the oldest ones and an angle grinder i was using to cut pavers died during a cut. ryobi replaced the grinder free of charge and the replacement has been good. i still have the very first one+ tool i purchased which was a drill and that thing has had a hard life building patios and fences. it has been left in the rain dropped off roofs and probably driven a million teks and it still goes hard. it is my favorite one because it has a steel chuck, the new ones are plastic :(
Great video! One other tip is to familiarise yourself with where the basic tools are located. My jack is located under the front passenger seat. I've had the cross-threaded nut scenario I had some choice words to say about the mechanic! Keep up the great work.
Without accounting for friction, a lug nut with thread pitch 1.5 mm tightened to 78 lb*ft (106 N*m) imparts 45 metric ton (444 kN) of force. Grease-lubricated steel to steel friction coefficient is about 0.15. Clean and dry steel to steel friction coefficient is above 0.5. For M12 bolt, the torque for friction coefficient 0.15 (lubricated bolt) divides between bolt stretch and friction as about 1:4. Bolt strain will be 1/5 of the case without friction - about 9 ton. The torque for friction coefficient 0.5 (un-lubricated bolt) divides between bolt stretch and friction as 1:12. Bolt strain will be 1/13 of the case without friction - about 3.5 ton. As you can see, lubrication makes giant difference in the bolt strain. With 1 metric ton of force applied (9810 N) the stress on M12*1.5 bolt (9 mm diameter after treading) would be 9810/(0.0045*0.0045*pi)=154 MPa. If the bolt steel is rated to 600 MPa load, this means it's only rated for
So you think that the derating he used is insufficient? What derating would you use? And is there any risk that the tension would tend to undo a lubricated bolt?
Your calculations is right only for IDEAL CONDITION, ie perfectly clean nut & bolt of any debris/ rust before & after applying lubrication. Each lubrication produces different coefficient of friction. Antiseize compound that he use has much higher coefficient of friction, & it’s not a lubrication. This is my guess.😢
I use MolyKote anticorrosion silicon grease on threads where corrosion is a problem sealing the thread from moisture. NeverSeize is designed for high temperature use where the grease carrier can be burnt away leaving behind the metal lubricant. Cheers
Dear John, the copper-paste is a beautifull and well working add on on those wheel-bolts and -nuts. Unfortunately in Germany a car prepared this way won't pass the regulare survey that has to be done (forced by law) once per all two years on cars and once per year on trucks. And it is pretty difficult to get it cleaned away each time before sending it to get inspected by thr government's engineer's eyes. Yet it is quite different from state to state and I did prepared my car the "copper way" while living in Norway where the weather is going rather harsh on the wheels and driving train. And it is working perfect.
Typical less expensive anti-seize compound is made with aluminum (aluminium for those in the UK and down under) and works just fine for most applications, even high temperature. The copper based is a step up. The best is nickel based. I know most of us never have to change exhaust systems because those on modern cars last much longer than they used to. However, if you ever have to take replace part of your exhaust system, use the anti-seize on the parts and the fasteners. It makes it so much easier if you ever have to revisit that job again.
A very informative article, I agree with every point you made. In regards to copper bases anti seize grease, many years ago I had a friend who thought that copper based anti seize grease would be great to make it easier to remove the propellor of an outboard motor. Bad Idea! A case of a little knowledge (and none on electrolysis). being dangerous. He had endless problems getting the propellor off till he woke up.
Good video John I could see the engineer coming out in you there...... I’ve gotta admit I got my license in 1988 and I think the number of times I’ve had to change a tyre on the side of the road is once for me.... and several times in a good Samaritan setting where I’ve stopped to help somebody else Maybe I won’t be launching any rockets for NASA any time soon........ but over 30 years I’ve worked out that 9.9 times out of 10 you don’t have to actually take the wheel off........ all you need to do is make sure you carry a decent 12 V compressor it’s usually a slow leak caused by a nail or screw in the tyre something like that...... you can pump it up and it will be fine for the rest of the day and you can get to a car shop to put a plug in it at a convenient time.... Having said all that I’m one of those people that does obsessive-compulsive 6000 km oil changes also fortunate enough to have bought a scissor lift so whilst oil is draining I swap the front tyres to the back and I’ve gotta say using that type of rotation frequency I’ve gotten 35,000 km out of a set of Pirelli‘s while without doing that I’ve gotten 22,000...... so my wheel studs get a fair bit of work and I do use Permax anti seize and A Warren and Brown torque wrench to put the nuts back on set at 95 foot pounds..... which I absolutely recommend everything you said is correct...!!!! Either way my mates say the NRMA does stand for something.... “ No Real Mechanics Available”... Hahaha.....
Just a few comments never let the JOE BLOW at the Tyre /brake change outlets use a rattle gun on your vehicle unless they can prove what torque setting it is set .I have been caught on this before and even seen the stud stripped out. A few years ago some cars did have left L.H. threads on the L.H. on the studs/nuts that was to prevent the wheel coming off . If you take time to view some dash cam videos [try the Russian ones] you will notice that majority car wheels exit the L.H. side of the vehicle [one video was 9 L.H. versus 2 R.H. ]. P.s I now use anti seize and a torque wrench Cheers
Interesting and humorous. The big problem comes after you have applied the anti seize and then the vehicle goes to a mechanic. He will use the rattle gun to tighten it to 100 or more instead of the lower torque which is recommended.
I was a professional automotive technician for over 30 years at new car dealerships and seen a lot of frozen lugs and frozen wheels. Most every time it’s do to galvanic corrosion of the alloy wheel to the steel hub and/or the lugs have corroded to the alloy wheel. The clear coat finish wears off from frequent wheel service and with the static build up from the tires rolling on the pavement. Used to use a 3/4” drive socket, a breaker bar with a 6 foot iron pipe as a cheater bar. Sometimes it would still take two men and a boy to break the damn lugs loose. I’ve has this happen after wheel removal for a brake check and rotation one day and after completing the customer would frequently return in a week to have the service performed the lugs were again frozen to the wheels. Inspection showed all finish on wheel hub and lug contact were worn to bare metal. Sometimes anti-seize would help, other times not. Great information John as always. Love your channel. 🇺🇸
Morning John, nice touch with the safety boots, one step up from thongs. Personally I use Nickle anti-seize in preference to copper these days due to some instances where the copper anti-seize has been suspected of causing SCC at the root of the thread, I've found Nickle anti-seize to be more versatile. Admittedly the SCC has been evident on SS bolting and not your standard bolting, i'm just airing on the side of caution.
Very good advice. I would recommend getting one of those x-shaped/cross shaped 3 in 1 lug wrenches. They are used with two hands so there is more leverage as one hand pushes down and the other pulls up. One prong is flattened to assist in removing wheels covers. P.S. If you use the old steel rims for winter tires buy a set up cheap wheel covers so you do not drive around all winter in the cold with your nuts exposed.
Didn’t Peter Brock know about cross threaded wheel nuts. I can still remember the image of him sitting in his car while the mechanics tried to remove the wheel nut at Bathurst one year. The pipe idea is a good one. My father gave my sister a pipe to carry in her car along time ago and has come to be very useful. I would suggest that over carrying a rattle gun as the pipe is fail safe. In regards to a torque wrench, I would suggest a Warren and Brown beam version. Australian made, very accurate, rugged and reliable. So much so that it can be handed down to your children.
Nice video....just enough tech talk to satisfy the 'why', without blowing minds. Also nice to have an expert blow away the endless broscience bs littering social media car 'advice'. Another tip regarding roadside assistance- some comprehensive insurance policies come with RA, so it's worth checking your policy to see if you're already covered. I'm with Youi, and the premium cost was better than any other major provider, regardless of RA provisions.
Yeees. Perfect synergy. Before John said it, I thought to myself I put copper ezze on all the studs of my family's cars to prevent corrosion. I use Penrite copper eze myself.
Thanks for the tips, John. I tend to undo in the same order as tightening. Is it necessary? I don't know, but it doesn't do any harm. I've never lubed my nuts before and not had a problem so far, but I probably will in the future. I was always worried about over-tightening and/or nuts coming loose. One thing to remind people is that with a torque wrench you should only set the torque when you're ready to do the job then immediately reset to zero at the end. If you leave it set at 80 (or whatever) for months in your toolbox the calibration can go out so you may well be under-tightening your nuts next time.
One of my used car I bought, the first time I needed to change the wheels to mount the winter wheels, I was able to unbolt but not to remove the wheel. It was that corroded. I had to use some wood to protect the rim and hit it strong with a big hammer. Now, I use also anti-seizing grease on the center part of the rim.
Could simply loosen each nut a couple turns, then go for a drive down the motorway. Those wheels will be plenty loose, I'd suggest :) Tech Tip: use duct tape to cover the wheel nuts so they don't part ways with the vehicle. Damn bother trying to find them later.
In the tyre section at my workplace, over tightening and cross threading is much more likely on over greased wheelnuts. People dont take the precautions of reducing tightening torque or just go nuts with the rattle-guns. You covered all the precautions well. If you had any work done on your car you should crack and retighten the nuts after, to ensure in good condition and correct torque. If you rotate the wheels yearly then they are less likely to build up with corrosion. Some also get super tight on the hub where the wheel centers and even with all nuts removed the wheel is locked in place and needs a large rubber mallet to remove.
There are several electronic "torque wrenches" available now. They convert your standard ratchet and socket into an accurate torque meter. Carried one on the motorbike and easily fit in a glove box. I always torque in stages - supposedly better for the mechanical torque wrench if it's been idle for 12 months (as per the included instructions) and also for snugging everything up incrementally. I might go around the clock 3 times - say at 20, 50, then 80 NM.
I come from the heavy duty truck industry, we are told to lubricate studs, and the washer attached to the nut with 40w oil. Just a drop on each. All of the manufactures call for this specifically, meritor, conmet, stemco, hendrickson, michelin, etc. That is is the lubricant that is specified for wheel fasteners, it gives the correct coefficient of friction. No dicking around to try and find out what the torque spec might theoretically be. If you are really worried about your lugnuts and wheels being seized on your car and you want to do things correctly, one wire wheel the inside of the rim where the wheel mates the hub, two lubricate the studs with >>>>A drop of clean engine oil
I've noticed you have a pretty sick garage tool setup, should give us a tour some time and do some more basic home car maintenance videos. Also some thing you could do videos on: do you need a oil cooler for engine or gearbox? When should I upgrade my radiator? (towing and performance) what type of batteries should people get for their cars a video on tires a video on brakes and upgrading brake rotors a video on headlight bulbs a video on tools or things you should keep in your car for long journeys what to look for when buying kids seats how to wash a car basics the list goes on
I've always oiled the wheel stud threads (I learned from Dad who was a fitter and turner who later became a mechanical engineer). On more recent cars with alloy wheels, I put anti-seize on the centralising ring at the centre of the hub. Otherwise, alloy wheels can bond on. I have three torque wrenches, 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" drives and I torque up the wheel nuts.
Had that problem of the alloy rim sticking to the hub. Even tried the trick of driving the car with the nuts loosened to get it to break away, but no dice. It was only a Nissan Tiida, so probably too light. Didn't have the tools to do anything else myself, so it became a job for the RACWA, who apparently swore at it a lot.
Project Farm just did a good (like all his videos) video comparison on anti-seize products, including one with copper in it, now I am all anti-seized out.
I length of water pipe on the end of that short spanner in the toolkit certainly does the trick. A good thing to carry in the car as also useful to smash glass and lever metal in emergencies.
Do not use "Molybdenum Disulphide", aka " Moly Slip" on threaded fasteners, fasteners require friction to stay in situ, MS, greatly reduces this, and fasteners will come undone. It's brilliant on on all sliding surfaces, including threaded forms, eg adjusting screws. Great vlog.
I had a most perplexing problem with Moly grease . Trying to remove the rear axle axle on my motorbike. Someone had smeared moly grease on it long ago.As it is a sliding fit when new the lube dried out and I was left with a layer of hard residue on the shaft in between the two bearings. For love or money I could not get that axle out. Ended up removing swingarm with wheel and putting it under a press.Took about 5 tons of pressure to force the axle out of the two bearings . I was amazed that it didnt burst the alloy hub of the wheel. Will never put moly on a close fitting shaft.Been using copper cote on all fastenings since I was a small child alongside my dad who worked in the oil iindustry. I still have some of that American made copper grease from the mid 60s.
Something you did touch on, but is worth mentioning to newbies.
When removing a wheel, slacken the nuts off before jacking the car up.
Then do a final tighten when back on the ground. If using a wrench that is.
@Yorkiepoocharlie Good luck with that all that will happen if it's a wheel without a brake. It will just spin when you try to undo the nuts/bolts. And if it does have a brake (like the hand brake) that's often not strong enough to stop the wheel rotating.
The reason that tyre fitters can do if off the ground is they use a rattle gun.
When using a wrench, not IF using a wrench.
Deduct 2 points from your Knowledge of English.
Your score 8 out of 10.
@@andrew_koala2974 Is it possible to use a rattle gun at home? Then there is a choice between a conventional wrench and a rattle gun so "if" is correct English.
Another good reason to have a impact wrench, doesn't matter if the wheel is in the air already.
How many people have an impact wrench ?. Releasing the nuts before jacking is a safety issue. Nuts can be tightened most of the way up before putting back on ground, to ensure correct alignment.
I agree I have been a truck mechanic for 40 years always used never seize just adjusted my torque never lost a wheel or a lug nut ever,
perfection as usual - who would think changing a wheel could be so detailed and need 30 mins
Sir: May I compliment you on an excellent, informative video. I watch all your videos here in western Canada & you never fail to bring a smile to face. You do your viewers a great favour with your ACCURATE & timely advice, & the instructions for handling a wheel & its fasteners was superb. A simple thing for those of us who understand, but fraught with opportunity for disaster for the unknowing. Now that I have reached 80 years of age, I have an edge over those who are under 21 , because they already know everything, & you will not be amazed to learn that I learn things from your videos that I DID NOT know ! Obviously my late father was correct when he proclaimed that I did not possess sufficient brains to learn how to pound sand ! Thank you Sir!,.....& Happy New Year to you from the wind swept hinterlands of western Alberta, Canada.
Excellent video John. I’ve been using copper anti-sneeze for over 40 years on my wheel studs and hub faces. (Aluminum anti-seize if it touches Al wheels.) I’ve had numerous arguments with mechanics and “Wheel Techs” about the use. Thanks for the confirmation. The rest of your info is “spot on” also.
What's just as important is a lite film of anti seize on the hub, so the rim doesn't fuse itself to the hub.
Yup thats exactly what I do, just a little swipe of copper antisieze between each of the studs
Or a quick spray of Fluid Flim!!! Great stuff I only recently discovered. Sprays like oil, stays like grease.
My A4's Bentley Manual instructs you to use polycarbamide grease. I've used anti seize for years though.
Had a big pot of that copper cote for nigh on 40 years. Lost count of the number of times I have praised the stuff when undoing something I did up a decade earlier. Its the Ming mole of lubes;)
Thanks John,
Kinda stuff I was looking for to teach my son (getting close to driving age if he's ever allowed to go get his L plates).
Nice to be able to say. "hey watch this on RUclips then we'll go do it on our cars out front" Makes him feel he has some prior knowledge and can have input into the process (especially if you ask what's the next step) instead of just Dad saying "Let me show you how to do this"
These basics videos are priceless mate.
Thanks again.
PS, Don't exclude the Ming Molls, helps most Teen boy's I know pay attention to be sure they don't miss any Pearls of Wisdom passed down from a highly respected source ;)
Cheers.
I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand.
I now have visions of the Ming Molls tightening my nuts.
Did this some 10 years ago with my two oldest and the neighbor boy as his dad was deployed to Afghanistan.
Our 2002 Camry needed a tire rotation and had a full sized spare. I showed them with the first tire, and each of them, the two boys and my oldest daughter, took a turn with a tire as part of the rotation.
I"ve also had them under the hood checking oil, coolant, PS fluid and battery terminals.
They were also given a demonstration of how to connect booster cables and got a chance to do so themselves.
I also put all of my kids in a stick shift car before they got to drive an automatic, so they knew how that works.
They all drive an automatic, but each has been exposed to the workings of a manual transmission with a real live 3rd pedal clutch.
Get my vote for Father of the Year
I highly recommend everyone who doesn’t know how to change a spare tire read their car’s manual and try it out in their garage.
It will give you an idea for the scope of the task and prepare you mentally for the time when you get a flat.
Problem now is, a lot of cars (especially hybrids, don't come with a spare wheel.
Another classic (in the refinery only) use for Copper Coat is to apply it under the door handle of your co-workers work vehicle.
Engineers Blue (Micrometer or Hi-Spot Blue), is equally effective. 👍
Bosted Tap “Down There”
I don't think there is a vice in any workshop that hasn't had old blue on the handle.
What if you don't have co-workers? Will your neighbor's car do then?
@@paulparoma Random neighbours only I assume?.lol.
Living in Canada many years and now in NE 'Murica, my vehicles see a lot of salted roads in winter. I follow this procedure when switching from summer to winter wheels, but I also find it helpful (since the wheels are off completely) to smear a light coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub and around the centre ring. Otherwise, the wheels will sometimes stick on the hub. And no one needs to be pounding on a stuck wheel when the car is balanced on a flimsy jack at the side of the road. If this does happen, I'm sure everyone knows the trick of loosening the lug nuts just half a turn, dropping the car off the jack and then rocking it back an forth a few times with a sharp application of brakes
Can't tell you how much I appreciate this, John. I'm a fan of anti-seize, but it's been hard to explain to people how it changes the torque needed to maintain the same fastener stretch - especially since it seems most people don't understand that bolts are supposed to stretch at all.
Especially as you can't see them stretch. (Incidentally, that's the most precise way to tighten them - measure the stretch. NASA does that a lot.)
I hit the subscribe button when I heard the phrase, "I would retort, what a load of shit." Priceless! Thank you Mad Matt for posting the link to this video.
John, the number of times I've been criticized for using copper grease on wheel nuts, thanks for the confirmation of my views. I also add a smear to the hub which prevents the alloy wheel binding.
John, I really like your videos and your "attitude" in your wording!!! LOL I ALWAYS put a "liitle" motor oil (a drop or two) on my vehicles' lug nuts and "other miscellaneous screws, bolts, nuts.... And in maintenance of my compliance with my Lifelong 60+ years, Shade Tree Mechanic's Certification, I NEVER USED A Torque Wrench on any nut, bolt, screw or whatever and NEVER had a problem with nuts or bolts being too loose or too tight. One of the major subjects in my pursuit of my Shade Tree Mechanic's Certificate was pre-calibrating your arms for tightening nuts and bolts (which of course I almost failed)!!! LOL A touch of never seize a'int gonna hurt...... Please keep up your GREAT videos!!!!!!!
Many thumbs up for lubricate the threads. I did it every time and never had trouble changing the wheels for seasonal use.
My stupid care doesn’t have a spare but I still watched this to learn some new stuff. Thanks.
Bloody Perfect! Spoken like a true Engineer, and Fitted like a True Fitter!
Here's how I had a bolt tension problem once: Doing a Job - Out of stock of the specified bolt: M10 4.6 in a specific head.
No Worries, rang-around and found some 8.8s, and additionally this job was Galv not zinc-plate - But she'll be right, right?
We rattled-up the 8.8s in the usual manner . . . and over time they all came loose.
The bolts are subject to a lot of weird forces and possibly movement, and M10 was overstrength for the stresses they normally experienced.
The engineers opinion was that the design relied-upon the 4.6s stretching and largely seizing-up; also Galv behaves quite a bit different to Zinc.
There was way too-little tension on the 8.8s and they just came-loose : we had to go back and add a lot of tension with Nylocs.
Lol, had to do a roadside tyre change on Saturday, in the middle of nowhere, with exactly the same issue. I was jumping on the wrench to get the nuts off. Great vid mate, Rattle gun me up
My dad taught me to use copper grease on wheel nuts and spark plug threads & nock a bit off the torque specs over 30 years ago, and yes I have had the same pot for over 20 years now and it looks like it'll last another 20 without emptying. Great stuff!
John, it's fun when you're ranting about criminal behavior or an injustice, but my favorite blogs of yours are when you are sharing tool and technical knowledge. You do it well and I always learn something useful.
John Cadogan explains this in great detail. Thanks. I wish you be more short to the point & reign on the Australian English , which is difficult for Canadians to grasp.🥹👏
Seems very appropriate that John released a video on how to deal with tight nuts. I just thankful this particular video was void of mingmoles.
Great advice! Living in America’s “rust belt” a wire brush, a can of brake clean, never seize, a sledgehammer and a torque wrench are mandatory for changing wheels and maintenance.
Nice PSA. Lots of people out there who have NEVER worked on their cars themselves and when the inevitable happens can't work it out from first principles. Cheers John.
Thanks John, vindication for what I have been doing for years. Will recommend to my sons, they are always prepared to listen to someone else !!
Great video for those who want to give their cars that extra TLC and learn a few logical steps on how to make life easier on the road. I picked these methods up in the early 1970 when I lived with older 4x4s of that era. A touch of grease on the studs and nuts and any other sensitive bits that were regularly submerged during river crossings was normal practice. Just like greasing all the joints regularly to expel residue water. My personal favourite a modification to lever off the brake drums for cleaning. I drilled and tapped two diagonally opposed holes in the drum and used two 3/8" bolts in equal turns to lever off the drum which as Murphy's Law would have it always froze to the axle flange. This made the job quick and easy. Sand and dirt could be quickly removed, brake shoes and springs checked and pistons inspected for leaks. A smidgen of grease was always applied before reassembly.
With roadside assistance, I have gone with RAA as their membership is one the person, not the car. Most policies are registered to a vehicle meaning that you only have coverage when driving that car. But with it being on the person, you are covered regardless of the car you are driving. Very handy when you have several classic vehicles at home as well as the daily drivers. 2 memberships in our household instead of the 4 we would need with most other policies.
AAA in the USA goes with the person, regardless of which car they are driving and even if they are a passenger in a friend's car.
The use of “pericynthian”is very interesting. I had to look that up. A rather lovely classical Greece reference, thank you.
I just did a summer tire changeover on my GMC Safari and the wheel nuts wouldn't come off even with the rattle gun. Finally after hammering and using a breaker bar with an extension the rust finally let go. What a job that would have been impossible on the side of the road. With the new tires on, the wheel studs got a partial on one side coating of zinc anti-seize and the nuts were torqued on. The centre flange what centres the wheel is also coated. I use zinc as it is a sacrificial metal that will over time give up to the harder metals of the wheel components. Now I don't have to worry about changing a flat if necessary.
Oh, for the doubters, i have been doing this for decades with no problems. The van was a recent purchase and the previous owner had not done this preventative measure.
Note: switch to ceramic grease, as this is recommended by most car and brake manufacturers and doesn't cause electrochemical corrosion on alu parts.
Also apply it to the outside of the centering ring or the respective mating surface on the wheel, makes sure the wheel doesn't get stuck on that.
Kris M so the bendix brake lube... blue in colour could be used?. Supper high temp and doesn’t melt and spread...supposed its ok as used on the slide pins?
@@virgomonkey68 3M silicone paste works better than any of these super special brake grease compositions. www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Silicone-Paste/?N=5002385+3293194053&rt=rud
Henkel Nickle Anti Seize is where its at... We used it for dissimilar metal applications in site with 256kva high voltage substations with buzz bars and the like - was mandatory to be used everywhere... Great expensive stuff.
@@Slazmoservicing4209 Different application, different environment.
@@virgomonkey68 If the slide pins are bushed in rubber, always use silicone grease for them.
Once upon a time. When mechanics were more than lube techs and parts fitters..
This was common place at every service... I do it though as it not only saves the customer the potential bother, but potentially makes my life easier for the same reason.
Do it for the next guy, as that might be you sorta thing.
@ChrisHallett83 no licence required for mechanics man. Not in Melbourne atleast.
@@iamasmurf1122 i know how you feel. I run a small shop myself and see it every day. Unfortunately the lack of regulation means there are people doing shit work for peanuts. And ultimately its the customer, who often knows no better than cheaper is better for their immediate concerns that enables it to happen too.
I'm a machinist and I agree with everything you just said. I would back off my torque wrench between uses though. Where's the MALS hat John? Put the campaign on hold due to the apocalypse?
@ChrisHallett83 That's true.
Living in snow country in the U.S., I'm changing tires twice a year. WInter tires on, Winter tires off. I've always applied anti-seize to the wheel nuts ( or bolts). Someone else noted the wisdom of applying it around the center hub where the wheel centers. I'd never thought about using it on the nut/bolt face- I'll need to remember to do that.
The availability of inexpensive Chinese tools has allowed me to carry an 18" breaker bar and correct socket in each car. Watch the sales and it can be done for under $20. It's a lot more secure than whatever the OEM wrench is. Again watch the sales and a Harbor Freight torque wrench can be had for $10. I do know someone who purchased one for each car. A few years ago, one of the car buff magazines tested them and they are accurate enough. I don't know that I'd assemble an engine with one but for wheel changes,just fine.
The one item he did forget to mention was to recheck the torque of the nuts/bolts after driving a few miles. They can loosen up and a recheck can prevent some costly damage.
Fascinating watch, even when only talking of nuts & bolts! Good job Sir!
I would also recommend a small amount of anti seize around the centre hub. Wheels on newer cars are hubcentric so the hole in the centre of the wheel is a very close fit around the centre hub. This will often corrode making wheel removal very difficult, another great reason to carry that rubber mallet.
Been using anti seize for years with recommended torque reduction of 30% from oem specs. Cheers!
John. As you know, leverage is everything. Archimedes said it "Give me a lever and a fulcrum on which to put it, and i will lift the World." It applies to -------> you name it.
I spent a bunch of money on calibrated torque wrenches earlier this year, covering from 2 to 300 Nm across the three.
Absolutely, definitively, THE best 250 quid I spent all year!
You are the Wizard of nuts and bolts, and mirth This makes so much sense to me. Thank you.
John good info clearly stated. Thanks for the 0.7 tip on reduced torque when using anti-size, I just guessed. My pet peeve is the knuckle drager at the tire store who uses an impact gun at full bore to tighten lug nuts. Once I found all the threads distorted on two hubs and had to replace all the studs. Since then whenever I have a tire shop rotate my tires when I get home I loosen the nuts and use my torque wrench.
Just did the wheel/tire swap on my F250, I like to use caliper grease on my lug bolts. It is ceramic based and will not effect braking if some gets on the rotor.
Good advice John. Copper coat has been my friend for 50 years.
Good stuff sir. I always carry a breaker bar, proper socket and a 3” socket extension in my truck with it. But it’s also a 3500 so the lugs are a beast. BUT, my wife’s care also has the same setup, smaller of course, because those tools the cars comes with make it a PITA. I also agree with the anti seize, yes always.
"Knock 30% off" ?? I'd expected you needed to ADD ! Very well explained, totally logical.
To add to this: WHEN it clicks STOP! Mr euromaster!
The quality alignment shop I patronize uses the air-gun just to spin the nuts snug and then finishes with a torque wrench to proper spec. They are proud of that and list the torque spec. on the bill of sale initialed by the mechanic. And, if you are waiting for your car, you can watch them through window actually doing it on every car.
Hi John, I worked in workshops and car dealerships for 14 years or so, we also put anti-seize on the locating hubs as alloy wheel/steel hubs almost can seem to weld themselves together, and were just about impossible to get off if your were on the side of the road, VT to VZ commodores wore the worst.
We always torqued wheel nuts so they were never over tightened. (though did not know I had to back them off wet)
Anyway still to this day many people still just hang off the rattle gun and over tighten nuts (snap on & Milwaukee etc battery powered guns are more powerful then most of the old 1/2 pneumatic guns) so that is a real worry
FANTASTIC apocapie time-usage video John. Another of yours I can flick over to my teen boys for some valuable teaching. Thing is, I've gone through most of this with them (not ALL, I did learn a few things here today!) however when dad says it, well, it is in question. Having you present it in such a pro way and with some humour (priceless) is absolutely perfect. PLUS if I give you to them on a 'device' or a TV you have their attention immediately. Thank you John, very much appreciate your effort with these vids! (love the tip re the rubber hammer - news to me and I'm, REALLY old and been doing this forever :-)) Believe it or not I am going out tomorrow to get my very FIRST torque wrench and some of that wondrous Penrite grease. You had me at Penrite - Aussie an' all, PLUS great lubricants - it is all I use in my Sprint 6.
Thankyou, John, for some very useful info in this post. At my last car service the wheel nuts were put on so tight that when I needed to remove a wheel I broke the socket wrench. It was not a cheap socket but a German made Elora and I was not using a 'rattle gun' or a 'ghetto tube'.
Love this part - "with all due respect, what a load of sh*t" 😂
Thanks JC, great job. I will take a leaf from your book and do the chore, as I observed that wheel removal was quite difficult when I had a guy plug a tyre for me recently. Plenty of reasons to make the job trouble free when having new tyres fitted also, when so much can go wrong.
It’s good to see you have found another way to loosen your nuts no Ming moles were injured in this demonstration thanks John haveing you’re nuts falling of one the road is not the best
The Mingies are having a well-deserved break today.
@@AutoExpertJC are they back at the cosmetic surgeon's already?
After our lockdown our old Toyota trueno sprinter had a seized up idle air control valve. Took it apart and cleaned it up and all good.
that sub 200 buck ryobi rattle gun has served me well for many years, great company and great tool.
@@GS-kh5se damn, i have about 15 batteries and almost all of the one+ tool range and in about 10 years i have had 1 battery die which looked to be one of the oldest ones and an angle grinder i was using to cut pavers died during a cut.
ryobi replaced the grinder free of charge and the replacement has been good.
i still have the very first one+ tool i purchased which was a drill and that thing has had a hard life building patios and fences.
it has been left in the rain dropped off roofs and probably driven a million teks and it still goes hard.
it is my favorite one because it has a steel chuck, the new ones are plastic :(
This video - Spot on in every respect. Loctite Australia.
Great video! One other tip is to familiarise yourself with where the basic tools are located. My jack is located under the front passenger seat.
I've had the cross-threaded nut scenario I had some choice words to say about the mechanic! Keep up the great work.
Without accounting for friction, a lug nut with thread pitch 1.5 mm tightened to 78 lb*ft (106 N*m) imparts 45 metric ton (444 kN) of force.
Grease-lubricated steel to steel friction coefficient is about 0.15. Clean and dry steel to steel friction coefficient is above 0.5.
For M12 bolt, the torque for friction coefficient 0.15 (lubricated bolt) divides between bolt stretch and friction as about 1:4. Bolt strain will be 1/5 of the case without friction - about 9 ton.
The torque for friction coefficient 0.5 (un-lubricated bolt) divides between bolt stretch and friction as 1:12. Bolt strain will be 1/13 of the case without friction - about 3.5 ton.
As you can see, lubrication makes giant difference in the bolt strain.
With 1 metric ton of force applied (9810 N) the stress on M12*1.5 bolt (9 mm diameter after treading) would be 9810/(0.0045*0.0045*pi)=154 MPa.
If the bolt steel is rated to 600 MPa load, this means it's only rated for
So you think that the derating he used is insufficient? What derating would you use? And is there any risk that the tension would tend to undo a lubricated bolt?
Your calculations is right only for IDEAL CONDITION, ie perfectly clean nut & bolt of any debris/ rust before & after applying lubrication. Each lubrication produces different coefficient of friction. Antiseize compound that he use has much higher coefficient of friction, & it’s not a lubrication. This is my guess.😢
That was a great explanation for me. I often wondered about lubricated torque spec vs dry torque spec. Thanks.
Thanks John quite useful. Especially the correct way to use anti seize with corrected torque.
Brilliant vid, good info. I never thought my nuts (on a car) could be so complicated.
I use MolyKote anticorrosion silicon grease on threads where corrosion is a problem sealing the thread from moisture. NeverSeize is designed for high temperature use where the grease carrier can be burnt away leaving behind the metal lubricant. Cheers
A simple shock turns the residual metal into powder, and you'[re good to go.
Dear John,
the copper-paste is a beautifull and well working add on on those wheel-bolts and -nuts.
Unfortunately in Germany a car prepared this way won't pass the regulare survey that has to be done (forced by law) once per all two years on cars and once per year on trucks. And it is pretty difficult to get it cleaned away each time before sending it to get inspected by thr government's engineer's eyes.
Yet it is quite different from state to state and I did prepared my car the "copper way" while living in Norway where the weather is going rather harsh on the wheels and driving train. And it is working perfect.
Typical less expensive anti-seize compound is made with aluminum (aluminium for those in the UK and down under) and works just fine for most applications, even high temperature. The copper based is a step up. The best is nickel based. I know most of us never have to change exhaust systems because those on modern cars last much longer than they used to. However, if you ever have to take replace part of your exhaust system, use the anti-seize on the parts and the fasteners. It makes it so much easier if you ever have to revisit that job again.
Excellent teaching material, for adults that is.
A very informative article, I agree with every point you made.
In regards to copper bases anti seize grease, many years ago I had a friend who thought that copper based anti seize grease would be great to make it easier to remove the propellor of an outboard motor. Bad Idea! A case of a little knowledge (and none on electrolysis). being dangerous. He had endless problems getting the propellor off till he woke up.
Absolutely Brilliant and Most Entertaining!
I use Copper Anti-Seize on all my wheel mounting procedures , always have because I live in the F'n rust belt
i bought an impact wrench for $50, that helps a lot to remove those bolts.
One of your best vids to date. Really enjoyed this one
Good video John I could see the engineer coming out in you there......
I’ve gotta admit I got my license in 1988 and I think the number of times I’ve had to change a tyre on the side of the road is once for me.... and several times in a good Samaritan setting where I’ve stopped to help somebody else
Maybe I won’t be launching any rockets for NASA any time soon........
but over 30 years I’ve worked out that 9.9 times out of 10 you don’t have to actually take the wheel off........ all you need to do is make sure you carry a decent 12 V compressor it’s usually a slow leak caused by a nail or screw in the tyre something like that...... you can pump it up and it will be fine for the rest of the day and you can get to a car shop to put a plug in it at a convenient time....
Having said all that I’m one of those people that does obsessive-compulsive 6000 km oil changes also fortunate enough to have bought a scissor lift so whilst oil is draining I swap the front tyres to the back and I’ve gotta say using that type of rotation frequency I’ve gotten 35,000 km out of a set of Pirelli‘s while without doing that I’ve gotten 22,000......
so my wheel studs get a fair bit of work and I do use Permax anti seize and A Warren and Brown torque wrench to put the nuts back on set at 95 foot pounds..... which I absolutely recommend everything you said is correct...!!!!
Either way my mates say the NRMA does stand for something....
“ No Real Mechanics Available”...
Hahaha.....
Great video wet torque vs dry torque is pretty important in a lot of different applications.
John, thanks for the on what one of your detractors called "anti-cease". I used it on all my cars.
I'm a mechanical engineer. I approve. Make sure you do the torque knockdown tho.
Just a few comments never let the JOE BLOW at the Tyre /brake change outlets use a rattle gun on your vehicle unless they can prove what torque setting it is set .I have been caught on this before and even seen the stud stripped out. A few years ago some cars did have left L.H. threads on the L.H. on the studs/nuts that was to prevent the wheel coming off . If you take time to view some dash cam videos [try the Russian ones] you will notice that majority car wheels exit the L.H. side of the vehicle [one video was 9 L.H. versus 2 R.H. ]. P.s I now use anti seize and a torque wrench Cheers
Again, good advise from the torquo expert.
Interesting and humorous.
The big problem comes after you have applied the anti seize and then the vehicle goes to a mechanic. He will use the rattle gun to tighten it to 100 or more instead of the lower torque which is recommended.
Thank you John. This is the type of video you are very good at!
Continue saying Straya as u do. Love it.
And gret advice in your videos.
I was a professional automotive technician for over 30 years at new car dealerships and seen a lot of frozen lugs and frozen wheels. Most every time it’s do to galvanic corrosion of the alloy wheel to the steel hub and/or the lugs have corroded to the alloy wheel. The clear coat finish wears off from frequent wheel service and with the static build up from the tires rolling on the pavement. Used to use a 3/4” drive socket, a breaker bar with a 6 foot iron pipe as a cheater bar. Sometimes it would still take two men and a boy to break the damn lugs loose. I’ve has this happen after wheel removal for a brake check and rotation one day and after completing the customer would frequently return in a week to have the service performed the lugs were again frozen to the wheels. Inspection showed all finish on wheel hub and lug contact were worn to bare metal. Sometimes anti-seize would help, other times not. Great information John as always. Love your channel. 🇺🇸
Thanks very much for sharing your hands-on experience with this mate - priceless.
Been *six years* since a more rotund and less hirsute JC broached this topic. How time flies.
Morning John, nice touch with the safety boots, one step up from thongs. Personally I use Nickle anti-seize in preference to copper these days due to some instances where the copper anti-seize has been suspected of causing SCC at the root of the thread, I've found Nickle anti-seize to be more versatile. Admittedly the SCC has been evident on SS bolting and not your standard bolting, i'm just airing on the side of caution.
Very good advice. I would recommend getting one of those x-shaped/cross shaped 3 in 1 lug wrenches. They are used with two hands so there is more leverage as one hand pushes down and the other pulls up. One prong is flattened to assist in removing wheels covers. P.S. If you use the old steel rims for winter tires buy a set up cheap wheel covers so you do not drive around all winter in the cold with your nuts exposed.
Didn’t Peter Brock know about cross threaded wheel nuts. I can still remember the image of him sitting in his car while the mechanics tried to remove the wheel nut at Bathurst one year.
The pipe idea is a good one. My father gave my sister a pipe to carry in her car along time ago and has come to be very useful. I would suggest that over carrying a rattle gun as the pipe is fail safe.
In regards to a torque wrench, I would suggest a Warren and Brown beam version. Australian made, very accurate, rugged and reliable. So much so that it can be handed down to your children.
Nice video....just enough tech talk to satisfy the 'why', without blowing minds. Also nice to have an expert blow away the endless broscience bs littering social media car 'advice'. Another tip regarding roadside assistance- some comprehensive insurance policies come with RA, so it's worth checking your policy to see if you're already covered. I'm with Youi, and the premium cost was better than any other major provider, regardless of RA provisions.
Yeees. Perfect synergy. Before John said it, I thought to myself I put copper ezze on all the studs of my family's cars to prevent corrosion. I use Penrite copper eze myself.
Thanks for the tips, John. I tend to undo in the same order as tightening. Is it necessary? I don't know, but it doesn't do any harm. I've never lubed my nuts before and not had a problem so far, but I probably will in the future. I was always worried about over-tightening and/or nuts coming loose.
One thing to remind people is that with a torque wrench you should only set the torque when you're ready to do the job then immediately reset to zero at the end. If you leave it set at 80 (or whatever) for months in your toolbox the calibration can go out so you may well be under-tightening your nuts next time.
Wonderful, practical advice; how to keep your nuts happy
So important.
One of my used car I bought, the first time I needed to change the wheels to mount the winter wheels, I was able to unbolt but not to remove the wheel. It was that corroded. I had to use some wood to protect the rim and hit it strong with a big hammer.
Now, I use also anti-seizing grease on the center part of the rim.
Could simply loosen each nut a couple turns, then go for a drive down the motorway. Those wheels will be plenty loose, I'd suggest :) Tech Tip: use duct tape to cover the wheel nuts so they don't part ways with the vehicle. Damn bother trying to find them later.
I checked the manual for my car and yes the correct torque for the wheel nuts is there! Is the correct torque different from one car to another?
Excellent video. I usually do a lower toque setting on the star pattern before moving to the final higher setting.
I still have a can of high temperature ant-sieze I bought 35 years ago to use on the exhaust pipe nuts for my BMW air cooled boxer motorcycles.
In the tyre section at my workplace, over tightening and cross threading is much more likely on over greased wheelnuts. People dont take the precautions of reducing tightening torque or just go nuts with the rattle-guns. You covered all the precautions well. If you had any work done on your car you should crack and retighten the nuts after, to ensure in good condition and correct torque. If you rotate the wheels yearly then they are less likely to build up with corrosion. Some also get super tight on the hub where the wheel centers and even with all nuts removed the wheel is locked in place and needs a large rubber mallet to remove.
There are several electronic "torque wrenches" available now. They convert your standard ratchet and socket into an accurate torque meter. Carried one on the motorbike and easily fit in a glove box. I always torque in stages - supposedly better for the mechanical torque wrench if it's been idle for 12 months (as per the included instructions) and also for snugging everything up incrementally. I might go around the clock 3 times - say at 20, 50, then 80 NM.
I come from the heavy duty truck industry, we are told to lubricate studs, and the washer attached to the nut with 40w oil. Just a drop on each. All of the manufactures call for this specifically, meritor, conmet, stemco, hendrickson, michelin, etc. That is is the lubricant that is specified for wheel fasteners, it gives the correct coefficient of friction. No dicking around to try and find out what the torque spec might theoretically be. If you are really worried about your lugnuts and wheels being seized on your car and you want to do things correctly, one wire wheel the inside of the rim where the wheel mates the hub, two lubricate the studs with >>>>A drop of clean engine oil
I've dealt with Bogan Cadogan before, and he's a good and funny person, two thumbs up.
Wheels connected too the brakes, brakes connect to a shit load of heat.. that’s gold
I've noticed you have a pretty sick garage tool setup, should give us a tour some time and do some more basic home car maintenance videos. Also some thing you could do videos on:
do you need a oil cooler for engine or gearbox?
When should I upgrade my radiator? (towing and performance)
what type of batteries should people get for their cars
a video on tires
a video on brakes and upgrading brake rotors
a video on headlight bulbs
a video on tools or things you should keep in your car for long journeys
what to look for when buying kids seats
how to wash a car basics
the list goes on
I've always oiled the wheel stud threads (I learned from Dad who was a fitter and turner who later became a mechanical engineer). On more recent cars with alloy wheels, I put anti-seize on the centralising ring at the centre of the hub. Otherwise, alloy wheels can bond on. I have three torque wrenches, 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" drives and I torque up the wheel nuts.
Had that problem of the alloy rim sticking to the hub. Even tried the trick of driving the car with the nuts loosened to get it to break away, but no dice.
It was only a Nissan Tiida, so probably too light. Didn't have the tools to do anything else myself, so it became a job for the RACWA, who apparently swore at it a lot.
Project Farm just did a good (like all his videos) video comparison on anti-seize products, including one with copper in it, now I am all anti-seized out.
I length of water pipe on the end of that short spanner in the toolkit certainly does the trick. A good thing to carry in the car as also useful to smash glass and lever metal in emergencies.
Do not use "Molybdenum Disulphide", aka " Moly Slip" on threaded fasteners, fasteners require friction to stay in situ, MS, greatly reduces this, and fasteners will come undone.
It's brilliant on on all sliding surfaces, including threaded forms, eg adjusting screws.
Great vlog.
I had a most perplexing problem with Moly grease . Trying to remove the rear axle axle on my motorbike. Someone had smeared moly grease on it long ago.As it is a sliding fit when new the lube dried out and I was left with a layer of hard residue on the shaft in between the two bearings. For love or money I could not get that axle out. Ended up removing swingarm with wheel and putting it under a press.Took about 5 tons of pressure to force the axle out of the two bearings . I was amazed that it didnt burst the alloy hub of the wheel. Will never put moly on a close fitting shaft.Been using copper cote on all fastenings since I was a small child alongside my dad who worked in the oil iindustry. I still have some of that American made copper grease from the mid 60s.