I just put my Buell motorcycle motor back in the frame and used anti-seize and no thread lock. Not because of this video because I just came upon this a few minutes ago. But I sure am glad I watched your video and it certainly makes sense to me. Buell recommends threadlock but I agree with you and the heck with Buell.
Another very good video Del. i have been biking for 50 ,yes 50 years, and have learnt more since I found your channel 3 weeks ago than in all those years. Brilliant keep 'em coming.
+Mick Lawrence Hi MIck, good to hear from you mate... and thanks so much for your kind faith and generous comments... am glad the videos can help you, and it's greta to hear from someone with way more riding experience than me! All the best my friend, thanks for watching, cheers, D&P!
Fantastic video Delboy! Both thread lock and anti seize I believe are overlooked by too many. Cheap, very simple items like these two help us in the garage now and in the future. Keep it up sir this is my favorite channel!
hi I'm 16 and have been riding since last Christmas I just want to thank you for showing me how to maintain my bike and other tips and tricks. Have a good Christmas
+Stephen Mcallister Hi Stephen, how fantastic to hear from you... people of your riding experience are the ones we target the channel at most... you are the riders of tomorrow in who's hands we will leave our lifestyle to continue in to the future... it's great to be able to help you, my friend, and great to hear that you've taken up the spanners yourself to take care of your bike - keep it that way, mate, that's exactly how it should be ! All the best, enjoy your holidays and ride safe... D&Px PS. drop us a line any time you need any help...
Delboy, First, I want to thank you for your videos. I'm In Chicago, Illinois, USA learning more from you than anyone else. Please keep posting videos, they are not going unnoticed and people are learning alot from your wisdom. I think your niche is for the motorcyclist who is between garage owner and regular joe. Money! Black shirts = "Delboy's garage" ( add graphic) can bring in some well-deserved income for you and your wife. Thank you! Patrick
+Patrick John Photography Hi Patrick, Thank you so much for your kind comments, and great support, a chanell is nothing without its loyal viewers... We did a run of T-Shirts and hoodies last year, and they went down very well indeed.... so we'll be doing some clothing again later in the spring once we get straight and squared away in the new home... maybe this time some cool long sleeve T-shirts (my favorite kind) and some BB caps as i love them... and all with the red DBG logo on black... We will post a video when the time comes to garner interest and guage how many we'll need... Take care and have a safe and happy new year my friend... D&P.
Once more, another very well explained topic pointing out actual application usage. Thanks for this information, I’ll certainly remember. The points raised.
Your videos are great, you explain things very well and tell us about the how’s and why’s as well as very interesting tips and examples. Keep up the good work !
Wow. By far the most Intuitive RUclips video I’ve ever seen on any topic. Well done. I’ve watched a ton of RUclips videos. Your the first I’ve ever subscribed to. Think I have a man crush. Knowledge is power! Cheers.
whooa! your vast knowledge ,sir, on materials and craftsmanship is huge, but now you should get a degree in chemistry ! merry christmas to all of ya folks!
Good info. I was wondering about using copper grease or thread locker on car thermostat bolts. This answers it. Even so, I won't use copper grease because of risk of the bolt undoing from vibration. I will instead use high temperature RTV as a sealer for the threads. RTV is a very weak glue but seals well, and it doesn't increase the risk of the bolt undoing.
Hi Del and Penny, Just wanted to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and Happy New year, looking forward to next year and some decent weather! plan is to get along to a the first available meet a share a brew. All the best Dave
This video is great! As someone who want's to do the job properly, but doesn't have a lot of first hand mechanical or engineering knowledge the array of workshop consumables can be bewildering!
Very informative! When I'm doing maintenance on paper machines I use never seize compounds all the time. Between the fact the bolts are always exposed to water and chemicals it would be impossible to removed any bolts in the future without the protection that it provides.
Brilliant vids I did level 1 to 3 light vehicle mechanic 20 years ago & always either learning new skills or topping up what you already know/thought I knew or forgot. When I was target shooting many gun smiths used nail varnish instead of threadlock. Question why do manufacturers still use none stainless bolts/studs for headers when it's a well known snapping/corrosion problem.
+james grocott Nail varnish is a great surrogate threadlock, and it can fix a ladder in your tights too apparently..lol Glad you enjoyed the video, have a great Christmas.. Del.
Another good tutorial Del.My own rule of thumb is"am I likely to revisit this in the next year or so.Coppaslip it.If not, threadlock it.I've got 3 tins,moly,lithium and copper grease that I've had for at least a decade,and they still cost about a fiver each.Best money you could spend.And I'm Scottish.A mate of mine ,who was a bus mechanic,gave me a big tub of bolts and Nyloc nuts.Best money I've never spent.Be safe,.....Gregg
+gregg ferns That's the best presents aye buddy? Thanks for your kind support, have a great xmas and we'll be loading more vids over the holidays, all the best, D&P!
There is also loctite plumbing threadlock/sealant that you can you instead of flax fibers or silicone tape and it hardens on contact with water or anaerobically.
Once again a great video! thanks so much. You mentioned to use a bit of thread lock on Stainless Steel bolts, but not to have thread lock in Aluminium. What would you recommend to do when I have Stainless Steel bolt going into Aluminium?
OK, first of all, is it a bolt that's liekly to vibrate free? You don't need threadlock on every single bolt or fastener, mst engines these days have stainless fasteners in to aluminium and if they're correctly torqued in place, they should stay put! However, if you're worried, then just a tiny dab of blue threadlock won't do any harm.
Good video again Del. How about stainless to stainless? It's awful stuff to get apart once it's picked up and straight anti-seize doesn't always cut the mustard like say,Tribol. I'm not sure about stuff like Loctite Studlock being permanent, it just seems to hold better... like a plastic with a higher shear value. You really do get the message across and I've learned a lot from you. Thanks for posting.
+TheRunereaper Best thing I've ever found with stainless to stainless (provided it's cold) is simple Blue Threadlock... it acts as it's own corrosion inhibitator, but you don't need much if it's a precision thread, just a dab!
+Harry Baker Thank you most kindly Sir, am glad you enjoy the videos, it's always important to spread a little knowledge out there to our fellow bikers aye?? !
Sorry re the Harley Road King question below - my confusion is that the hub is ally and the bolts are steel/titanium and the disc will get hot. The manual mentions nothing about the rota fitting using any kind of locking agent. Hope that makes sense. Thanx again. Cheers 👍
Brilliant man. I really like the format as well. Looking forward to this big announcement over the holiday. All the best to you and Penny and your families over this holiday season and may 2016 be your best year yet! Take care my friend.
+Iron Slim Thanks Scott, wishing you and your family the same... contracts all exchanged last night on the new place, so should be in my the New Year! But a slow process as the new workshop needs the DBG T.L.C. to get it operational ! Merry Xmas, D&Px
To loosen a nut or something that has threadlock applied to it. Just re-apply "fresh" threadlock onto the already hardened threadlock compund. The chemical reaction will soften the threadlock compound and you can just unscrew the nut after a few minutes. Just make sure you leave some threadlocker visible when you apply it in the first place...
Another great video , it's been a pleasure to view your videos this year and want to thank you both for what has become a fantastic channel. Have a great Christmas and New Year, have a rest but not too long :) Paul
+Paul Bickley Ha ha, thanks Paul, you're very kind, we wont be having a rest, got three videos planned for the bikes, and a huge announcement about the garage itself...
+Byron Anderson Hi Byron, thank you most kindly Sir, Penny will be back soon, working flat out up till Christmas day, then we have lots of much more interesing things to do, and a big move coming too...!!! Hope you and the five are all well, take care and hap[y holidays.. D&P.
Great level of detail here, Prof. Del, thanks for posting. I use one or the other of these on just about every bolt on the Ducati. I suppose it's similar to the Harleys: a lot of twin-vibration going on that pushes a variety of fasteners out. After becoming a regular track day rider, I went to the next level on most of the 'crucial' bolts and have them safety-wired now.
+Track848 Hey buddy, thanks for your kind comments, year, lockwiring is just about as hard core as it gets..lol Great to hear from you as always.. Del.
What about spraying cold galvanizing compound on your threads? Also, cotter pins and safety wire. I don't have any castle nuts, so I drill a cotter pin hole through the bolt just past the nut, but I think it would work better keeping the nut from turning if it were through the nut, but then you compromise the bolt and nut strength...
Hi. Thanks for the useful information . So from what I understand from this vid, the better product for a vehicle caliper bracket bolt (carrier bolt) , is copper slip rather than a thread lock? Certain people argue that with anti-seize, these bolts can get loose with vibrations etc - any truth in this?
I was told that threadlock actually sets only under pressure be it that it only needs a very little but never over time unless the pressure is there. I use to fly radio controlled helicopters and if you got a drop on the workbench it or had a bolt covered with it but not wound a nut onto it then it would never cure as such, hence why it never goes off in a bottle. I had quite a debate with a rep over it and he insisted that it is not a glue and requires a condition before it solidifies. Thanks for the explanation of the copper slip and graphite explanation, didnt know you could put it on the back of a brake pad to stop vibration sound, again thanks heaps for the videos, your a legend for sharing so much!
+VlogBiker Hi mate... yes, copper slip on the back of btake pads stops the squeel..but no more then butter in a biscuit aye.. Rather than deate the threadlock thing... experiment yourself... take a loose fitting nut and bolt, one that spins on freely... fill the thread with threadlock.. slip the nut on loosely, applying NO pressure, so you have a 'full nut', and leave it for 45 minutes... then come back and tell me what you found...?
Moonfleet41 yeah I actually went out into the workshop last night and did that exact test very sloppy loose nut... lol, it was rock solid this morning. but the other bolt with no nut on it but resting against a piece of metal was still liquid and the two strips of metal with loctite between them was also liquid. Going to try two very flat peices today at the workshop at my office and place them in a vice and see what that yields.
Great video of knowledge,your my top #3 RUclipsr for any MC or tool usage … Have you ever taught in a classroom ? I was a little misinform on how and when to use these products.Thanks Delboy,
Awesome video. What your opinion on using antiseize on various bolts on dirt bike/motorcycles? I am mostly concerned with smaler diameter bolts going into aluminum engine cases, inserts in plastic gas tank, triple clamp, axle pinch and swing arm etc.. I hear that these threads are prone to galling and that antiseize can help. I know you need to reduce torque when using antiseize, though. I have hear anywhere from 15% to 40% torqued reduction. This is a huge range, and i would be worried about under/over torquing when using antiseize.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing ! I don't know if there are many parts that are made out of titanium in the world of motorcycles, but apparently you should definitely use copper based anti-seize when using steel bolts on those components. At least that's what I've heard. Perhaps your experience is different, in that cas I'd be interested in reading what you think about it ! Cheers
Yup, bolting SS or Tit into bare alu will become a drama once you need to disassemble the parts The more dissimilar the metals, the faster/worse galling will become, fusing the metals together and ruining the thread of the lesser material This is why bike manufs. (apart from costs) use galvanized steel bolts (with threadlock) instead of stainless This is the list of dissimilar materials, the further they are separated, the worse galling will be between them: Gold Graphite Silver Stainless steel, type 316 Titanium Nickel (passive) Silver solder Bronze Copper Brass Tin Lead Cast iron Mild steel Aluminum Cadmium Galvanized steel Zinc (often used as a sacrificial anode in marine environments) Magnesium
For your viewers in the US, Permatex (know for their excellent gasket sealers) makes an anti-seize compound that you paint on the threads with the brush attached to the can lid.
Thanks Del for a very informative video. I've never seen the tubed stuff, always used the liquid stuff and, yes, I've stood on it and squirted it everywhere and it ain't cheap. Happy Crimble to you and Penny.
Great Video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you need special sockets for Triumph Motorcycles? I own a 2010 Triumph Speedmaster. I was going to replace the crank position sensor, but none of my sockets fit the right hand cover screws. A 7 mm is too small, an 8 mm is a bit loose, but I can't find any 7.5 mm or a 10/32 SAE socket here in Chicago. How about doing a video on the type of tools needed to work on the triumph bikes and where you we buy them?
+Gene Chicago Hi Gene... thats very odd, all the fasteners on Triumphs these days are just regular metric...i take mine out with an 8mm socket and no problems... do you think that maybe sombody has changed them?... its unlikely i would think... there are many size scales still in use in the engineering world, most people only know Metric or A/F (American fine), commonly refered to as just "Imperial" but in fact there as a few other "Imperial scales" that will give you what you need... you're right there is no 10/32, that is 5/16 AF, which is 7.94mm Then there is the old "Whitworth" scale, so 3/32W is 7.54mm and finally there is the ols pre1940's "BA scale, so 3BA is 7.16mm You can buy any of these tools from good quality suppliers like Snap-On, or Blue Point....and if you need it for such an important job, then just investing in that one size may be affordable... Hope that helps you sir... Cheers Del.
+Moonfleet41 Thank you for replying. The sockets I have are from GM and the size is stamped on the socket. I'll buy some 8 mm sockets from different brands, and the Whitworth ones too, to see if that makes a difference. You're awesome for sharing your knowledge. Have a good day!
Nice one, as always, thanks 😊 I have an Ali hub which has steel bolts into it - for break disc one side and belt drive on the other. The old ones were very difficult to remove due to age and corrosion. The manual called for thread lock but the thought of trying to get them out again at some point freaked me out so I just toques them in with a little copper ease on them. Should I just keep and eye on them or do you think I should strip it and thread lock it? Also the red bottle of thread lock has blue lock in it - is this the permanent one you said not to use. Thank you in advance for your advice and thank you for you continued vids and advice. Cheers 👍🤜
NO John, you must use thread lock on your hub, just like the manual says.. don't worry about getting them out.. if the threads are clean when you assemble them with threadlock, then there is no room for corrosion, the threadlock actually inhibits that.. if you have any trouble removing bolts that have threadlock then just apply a little heat to the heads and that will melt it..! Good luck and hope that helps.
Sorry to ask but …. The bike is a 2004 Road King rear wheel. Looking at the Harley Manual (thanx for that good advice to get it - they are good like you said😊) the drive sprocket it says “apply two drops of red 271” I am a bit worried as it will need to be replaced at some time. Would the less permanent blue thread lock be ok? The disc rota has no mention of using thread lock however it had thread lock in, I guess from the factory. So should I also use the same blue lock on the rota as well ? The bolts I replacing are more like the stainless type so I would guess yes. Please advise? Thank you for your help. I am a bit of a worrier and just want to do the right thing. Thank you in advance.
Plumbers always use a special fitting when connecting copper pipe to (galvanized) steel pipe because of the electrolysis between the 2 dissimilar metals. So what about this Copper Slip that seems to be so popular in the UK? Is it not subject to electrolysis as well? I’ve always used the grey anti-seize with graphite in it as I’ve no worries about Electrolysis and because it works. What do you think?
I removed the front end of my cbr 929rr and started watching your videos. I have an OCD way of doing things and it always gets me into trouble. I used antisieze on every bolt evolving aluminum and other materials. I however didn't realize I should have backed my torque down a bit and ended up doing more damage to my threads than I would have without the antisieze. I used helicoils to recover my mistakes but how do I know what torque setting to use when using antisieze? I did lower it 2lbs but clearly it wasn't enough. I appreciate all your videos. Great job!
Hi Milton. i have heard that claim a few times, but also that fasteners must be lubricated to slide in without resistance, and drag in the thread can lead to a false reading... but as you pointed out, i didn't work for you... i dont know how much you would need to back off by... maybe check with the manufacturer for their spec..?
Torque is a very approximate way to measure how tight bolts should be. But we have to use it because thats all we can measure in most practical circumstances. What we are actually try to control is the amount of preload on the bolt which relates to the amount of clamping force achieved. Unfortunately, the preload on the bolt is affected by many factors, one of the main factors is the friction of the thread and underhead surfaces. So if you grease up a bolt and torque it down, you can exceed the intended preload and even overload and snap the bolt. See also about using copper-based anti-seize on bolts going into aluminium... not recommended.
Here's a question: Stainless steel bolts holding brake calipers together; not mounting them to the fork, but joining two halves of a block together. Brembo gold ones, in this case. In the past when doing a rebuild, they've always seized mightily, and I've resorted to drilling them out. If I replace with stainless bolts, "which have a tendency to rattle loose," should I anti-seize or leave them be? No thread lock, obviously, since calipers get so hot...
Good question Sam.. so thinking logically, having to drill them out is no big drama.. but having them fall out, well that kinda is..! So if it was me, i'd lock the bolts in with thread lock so they stay put, and remember, threadlock forms a resin layer between the two surfaces actually helping to prevent corrosion.. bone dry bolts can corrode solid.. thread locked bolts cannot..! so when you want to break them loose again, they'll give you no problems mate.!
@@Moonfleet41 Gracious cheers back to you from a stateside fan. You've helped me do a lot of things on my favorite 26 year old redhead (Ducati 900SS). Will do: a light smear of blue Loctite when those stainless bolts (and new seal kit) arrive (both from your side of the pond, btw.)
Try gently running a thread tap down the hole, work backwards and forwards gently, and then blow out with an airline... good luck with it, let us know how you get on!
Sorry to ask more but .... I have a 2004 Road King rear wheel. Looking at the Harley Manual (thanx for that good advice to get it - they are good like you said). For the belt drive sprocket it says "apply two drops of red 271" I am a bit worried as it will need to be replaced at some time relatively soon and don’t want to complicate removal process. Would the less permanent Loctite 2400 medium strength thread locker be ok? The disc rota has no mention of using thread lock however it had thread lock in, I guess from the factory. So should I also use the same Loctite 2400 on the rota as well or just copper ease? The bolts I replacing are more like the stainless type so I would guess yes. Please advise? Thank you for your help. I think I know the answer but I am a bit of a worrier and just want to do the right thing. Thank you in advance. Keep up the fantastic work 😊😊.
With all respect my friend, you are overthinking it a little... go ahead and use the red threadlock if it gives you confidence in the security of the fasteners and if you ever need to remove them in the future, just apply a little heat to the bolt head with a small blowtorch, not enough to make it change colour, and that will melt the threadlock. If you are using stainless fasteners, there's no need for anti-seize products as they shouldn't corrode in place, but it's then possible they can vibrate a little loose, so just a dab of blue threadlock will be fine on each bolt to hold it in place. That's all you need to do, don't loose any sleep over it buddy and enjoy the process.
Great vid as always Del but this is what gets me. As threadlock (locktight to us mortals) requires both surfaces to be clean, i.e. it won't work on previously locktight-ed threads. Whilst you can clean the bolt you can't always clean the thread that the bolt screws into which means locktight-ing a second time or is useless. It's why I use copper-slip EVERYWHERE. I'd be interested in your thoughts. Best regards.
Be concious buddy that anti-seize isn't always appropriate, specially if you own a Harley, sometimes fasteners can shake loose, so it's important to consider that, and it's even advised in some Harley Davidson service manuals... but don't forget you can chase a thread through with a tap, or you can ever buy specialised thread cleaning taps which are less aggressive and won't cut any metal... plus of course, also as I'm sure you know, threadlock is melted by heat, so it's perfectly ok, if you can't chase a thread though, to pop a tiny jet lighter flame inside the thread which will liquify any threadlock debris and effectively re-activate it when added with a little fresh threadlock on the bolt... and just being really pedantic, Locktite is a brand name... like Levis and Fairy Liquid! Threadlock comes by many other brands as well, but that's just picky and pretty much irrelevant!
@@Moonfleet41 You're definitely the man Del. It's Friday night for crying out loud. But your reply is greatly appreciated. Harley vibes? No, two Goldwings, a 1981 GL1100 and a 2004 GL1800 so nothing shaking loose here. Top man Del, appreciate.
@@michaelhoare5291 Aha, a fellow WingNut! I explained about the legendary smoothness to our Penny, but she didn't believe me when I said 'you can stand a 50p on it's edge, on the rocker cover, when the engine's running!',,, so I proved it, so you're definitely right, you won't have any vibe issues there!! ...I ended up buying the matt black one I did the headstock bearings on, it's a bit of a 'wasteland' bike, but has quite a pedigree, it's due cam belts in the Spring, as I've no record when they were changed, they're not due till 100k, and it's 40k short of that at this point... but at 28yrs old, you can't be too careful, and they don't cost much... it's not a pretty bike, so we call it 'Goliath the ShedWing'!... which is a great conversation opener wherever we park it!! Haven't met any WingNuts when out and about on it yet, am sure I won't get the best reaction from all of them. but hey, it's a Wing and the heart & soul of smooth serenity (and Penny says theback seat is like a LazyBoy armchair (at least I think that's what she said)...
@@Moonfleet41 Never took you you for a Wingnut Del. As beautiful as the 2018+, is and the engine, it's an ST1800 not a Goldwing. And don't get me on to the flaccid front suspension and luggage capacity. Makes me hoot at the 2021 model lauding a 60ltr trunk upgrade. The gen1 GL1800 had 60lrs and bigger saddlebags. The 1100 is my black beauty.
@@michaelhoare5291 Oh yes indeed buddy, there are many things we don't make public, love my old ShedWing and we don't care who knows it lol and specially love getting the under carriage down on corners... ;-) there's something I want you to check out, which you may or may not love... it's a Channel featuring GoldWings, but it's absolutely positively NOT what you'd expect... take a look: ruclips.net/channel/UClS7VlOLbHRX04uHmJTidaA
Just found your videos, very informative, I like the way you work. I had to comment though because I saw you using Copaslip on a swingarm in another vid. I started using Copaslip on bikes a long time ago, and once in a while I found it wasnt helping, it almost appeared to be making it worse. I started to look into it and found that Copaslip is recommended for steel-on-steel applications, although they never seem to tell you this on the package. I had an old RD and had issues, for example with the pad retaining pins seizing in place. I started using Copaslip on them and then found it was just as bad the next time I went to change the pads. This is when I looked into it and found that Molyslip (the folk that make Copaslip) also make Alumslip which is a light grey clour. This is what I use on my bikes all the time now (i.e. for about 20 years) and have not had problems since. In fact, when I work on new bikes, I often see what looks like Alumslip in certain places, e.g. caliper bolts, etc, so I suspect its something like this they use. I am a metallurgist by profession and this makes complete sense to me. I have never seen copper grease on a new bike, but then, I havent seen them all. Although I have heard that Copaslip was not designed primarily to work as a galvanic protection (e.g. like zinc galvanising on steel), I believe there is an element of it at play. I contacted the Molyslip technical line by phone, and they commented that Copaslip is designed primarily as a barrier between two surfaces. However, I believe the copper in Copaslip will help to protect steel, the same way that zinc does; the copper or zinc is more reactive and corrodes; in doing so it creates a corrosion cell and "sacrificially protects" the steel in the same way that sacrificial anodes work on steel hulled ships. However, aluminium is more reactive than copper, so when we put Copaslip on a steel bolt threaded into aluminium, the aluminium corrodes preferentially. Anyhow, I wanted to pass this on. I have not done a scientific study of this or anything, but I've certain found it working in practice over the years....
Are you aware, (im sure you are), of the vastly different melting point of the two..650c vs 1100c so if you're using Alumslip on your brakes, then im sure you're mindful that it's far more likely to melt and flow in extreme conditions..! Just a factor i consider.!
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Dellboy... no, I'd use Copaslip on the back of the pads. I wouldnt have a problem putting it on the mounting bolts, caliper bolts & pins etc. In any case, if they were getting anywhere near the melting point of aluminium, I dont think they'd make the calipers from an aluminium alloy.... Anyway, my brakes dont see extreme conditions on account that I ride like a pussy most of the time.
very good video again mate, gonna be working shifts over xmas so wanna take this chance to wish you and penny all the very best for christmas and the new year, thank you so much for the vids this year and long may it continue, you have saved me and othrs lots of cash, so i hope santa brings you some thing good, and hopefully a christmas bloopers...that would be funny... all the best pal
+Bazza Yamaha FZS Thanks Bazza... merry christmas to you too buddy... glad to the videos have helped you out... may do a merry christmas video over the holidays and got a couple of jobs to do on the bikes... but a big announcement coming for the new year! Have fun, all the best, D&Px
Very useful. I’m new to motorbike maintenance and your videos are really helpful. I’m very familiar with galvanic corrosion, doesn’t copper slip accelerate that when used in aluminium? Also what are the effects on torque ratings? Is there a danger of over torquing due to the lubricant effect?
Pure copper is a tad harder (3 mohs) material than aluminum(2.5 to 3 mohs for pure Alu) But bikes are often harder alu alloys, copper powder combined with the grease, will not solidify as easily and galling is also diminished As for torque ratings, when applying any kind of grease or threadlock, always torque down a little lower than the boltspec prescribes
Just watched your clip, very interesting. But you didn't mention not to use st/steel nuts on st/steel bolts. For some reason they fur up and its a bugger of a job to get them apart.
Hi Del & Penny Sorry to bring up a 12 month old thread, but I have a question if thats okay. I'm trying to bring an old VFR750 back to it's prime and so far have had to drill out 4 fairing bolts to get some panels off (was careful not to melt the panels) and they were SOLID. Now my question would be should I use threadlock on the mudguard and fairing fastener bolts or copper slip? The mudguard goes onto the fork lowers (I presume these are aluminium), and the panel bolts would go into steel (i presume) receiver nuts. At the moment I havent bought replacement bolts but the bolt kits online seem to all be stainless steel so will probably go that way.
Hi Christopher, you dont need anything on them buddy, use the stainless ones, and just fit them in securely without over doing it.. they'll stay there and wont corrode.... never use threadlock, they wont come out buddy... just a smear of regular grease is fine mate.. ! Good lukc wiht the bike, and Merry Christmas.. Del.
Great video as always.a little off topic but what kind of watch are you wearing? I'm going to try to save this as I can never remember. I only have 2 brain cells left and it's hard to get them to get together and do anything.🤔 I just realized I just proved my point. Thanks
Can I use molybdenum instead of copper ease on rear of brake pads etc I got a tub a decade ago not used, and does any of this type of stuff go off , great vids by the way, do u have a video on basic workshop tools .
Hi Delboy , thanks for the massive library of Bikey vids, use your vids all the time for education , reference and conformation that i am doing the job right and safely. Currently just about to put front break calliper back to gather and refit back on the bike. I had previously decided not to go near my breaks but after watching your videos I was inspired and the confidence that your videos had given me was awesome and what seamed a daunting task became an enjoyable tinkering self-satisfying oily job. Thanks a bunch Del & Pen While I'm on i do have a couple of questions though. Bobbins on the bach break disk seem different than the front how do i free them up like the front? I have a 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 and looking to change the exhaust , three bolts , what is the best way to go about getting bolts out without snapping them and will it be copper slip when putting them back in. And lastly would i need to have some kind of jetting after putting a stubby can on from the 3 bolt flange? Thanks from Col another monkey idiot with loads of dangerous tools trying to get into the collective ............lol
hi Col, thanks for your cool message mate... to answer your disc question first, there are no bobbins on the back disc, its solidly mounted mate... and to get stuck bolts out its just a perfect fitting socket of alun key, and lots of leverage... it the head starts ro mince, then dont just round it off... you can spray some WD40 over it so it penetrates down into the thread, and then give it a go again in about ten minutes.... there's no instant fix for that mate.. its just practice and patience aye... And for the refit.. no, you should be ok for just a stubby can on the factory header pipe.... see how it runs, if you have any flat spots then you may need to deal with it.. but mine was fine. Thanks for your kind support mate, enjoy Your Bandit, and take care.. De;l.
I started using Anti-seize back in 1994 when I had a hard time to remove original spark plugs from my brand new Mazda 323 if you can believe it. I even twisted one of those universal swivel spark plug sockets wrenches with a T handle. Went back to store and got me proper 3/8" set which I'm still using today. My former friend loaned to me can of Anti-seize and tube of Dielectric Tune-up Grease. Until that moment I never heard of those extremely useful compounds. I use it on almost any bolt and I always use a torque wrench to tighten every bolt to factory specs. I sometimes worry, how does use of Anti-seize on treads effects torque value? For instance, NGK doesn't recommend using Anti-seize on spark plugs with special metal plating (Zinc-chromate plating), but their website says to reduce torque by 30% when using Anti-seize. I never had any problem with spark plugs and I keep replacing them every two years on all of my vehicles.
What about using silicone grease for brake calipers? I think that I read somewhere that it is a suitable substitute for thermal grease such as copper anti-seize lubricants. Thanks!
+Ken Cosi I've read a similar thing stating that silicon grease is better due to it not being a petroleum based product. Apparently the petroleum in copper grease eats away at rubber such as the seals on calliper pistons. I used it when i changed the callipers on my car and have never had a problem. Any thoughts Del ?
Boarder 74, thanks for backing me up on this. What I need to know is in general does silicone grease have the same high thermal properties as anti-seize grease? Yeah Del, what's your take on this? Can I use this or not?
+Ken Cosi You don't use copper grease on rubber seals EVER... so whether it eats away at them or not is irrelevant, you shouldn't put it on them and if you want to know whether your silicone grease is heat proof, then just try setting fire to it... you'll soon get your answer ! Personally, I've never used it...
Had a tough time getting car tire / rim off wheel to change . I had to beat it off with a mini sledge and a block of wood on the rim. Can I use anti freeze on lug nuts and where rim touches metal to metal on the car wheel ? If so, where can I apply it to the rim to make tire changing / removal easier ?
+Joseph Wolchak Yes and yes, wire brush lugs and the hub and the back of the rim where it makes contact then clean it off and put a thin film where ever it contacts. Also if its a hub centric rim/hub don't forget to do the same there as well.
Del, Generally I copper slip everything except the critical bolts which get locked, video made me think! What about brake rotor bolts? My workshop manual says do up to only 20Nm so feels like threadlock, but with the heat and composition of bolts vs alloy hubs I'm a little bemused which I should use :/
Hi Rich... ive made several videos on bolting discs on the right way, and each one is in great detail and concise... ALWAYS Threadlcok, new bolts of you can afford them, if not then clear out all old threadlock from the bolts thread.... and torque down in a star pattern... its a low torque value because its a torsional force on the bolt (sideways) not a pulling force...
Nice video, do you have to worry about cooper slip making booked come undone? For example the previous owner used it on the wheel bolts of my car but I thought best just to do them up dry. If something does not get hot and you don't want it to come undone is just doing it up dry fine? It will this lead to snapped bolts later on?
The presence of any form of grease on a wheel lug will prevent it rusting in place...they get wet with salty road water and they get hot..so they will rust if they're dry.! and Copper slip is far better than grease because it wont melt away.. wheel nuts do get hot... just place your hand in the middle of your wheel after a hard drive with lots of braking.. no need to overdo it, just a very light dab on the thread only, and torque them up to the right level.. they wont come undone buddy... antisieze doesn't mean they come undone, it means they wont seize..!
Can you recommend an anti seize product for ss bolts on aluminum cases of an RD400F? I believe corrosion is a concern as well, so any info is appreciated...I have a tube of Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize #81343, but am not a huge fan of their products...
Alumslip is the way to go. I know your post is from three years ago but hey-ho; better late..... I posted something further up a few minutes ago if you want more detail.
Hey Del, I hope you can help me answer 2 questions: 1- at the end you say tot use Cooper grease for steel on aluminium. well my manual says to use red loctite on the disks to my wheels, which was beyond difficult to take off. what do you recon in this situation? loctite or copper grease? 2- do the different loctite number reffered to in the manuals have much differences? or do only the colours matter for us shed mechanics? Thanks for all you teach us!
Hey Danny, yeah, this can be confusing... the rule of thumb for general unimportant bolts is to use a little copper slip on steel bolts into alloy to prevent galvanic corrosion... but in really important bolts like your brake discs, you must use a Threadlock so they dont come out.... and yes, you are right, red threadlock is almost permanent.. and almost impossible to get out.... so on brake discs i always use BLUE threadlock, which is semi permanent and easy to get out when you need to... in fact, for pretty much all us shed mechanics do the blue threadlock is just fine... hope that helps.. good luck buddy... del.
Hey Del, useful video also good to see you resume the street fighter build, ACE, just one question, you spoke about the way exhaust manifold bolts stay in place by virtue of the washer/seal keeping constant pressure which keeps those secure, is that the same mechanism that keeps the oil sump bolt in place, also do you think it would be a good idea to change sump bolts for magnetic ones? kind regards Warren
nice video del good to know the difference between the compounds comes in handy seems like whenever stuck on bike just visit your channel lol ride safe
I’m planning to change the OEM brake disc bolts to titanium bolts. I would imagine that it’ll be hot, so i’d have to put on grease. But the service manual says ALOC bolts, which after some googling around - it’s just bolts with thread lock on them. Your thoughts?
Hi Del, In your HD clutch video you used a 4 to 14nm T bar torque wrench where did you get it from as I have looked all over the web and could find anything , Regards, Mark.
Hi Mark.. Here you go buddy, this link will take you direct to the RECON site and they are usually in stock to buy now mate... www.reconelectrical.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle--T-Plus-TorqueVario-Set
Hey Del, Where did you het those big crash bars on that rat bandit you once made, the brand was Jawa or somehting, I want them for my MK2 B ... don't know how to contact you in another way. Cheers
+Kris Schobben Hi mate, they were 'Jama' brand and they are a discontinued model now, but perhaps do a search and see if you might be able to find a NOS pair... otherwise, maybe Ebay... good luck with your search buddy !
+ALHD 48 Yeah, its pretty a pretty common mistake to use threadlock on engine casings, it usualy trashes the thread...its common sense to want to stop the bolt coming out, but this isnt the way as you found... hope the insight helped mate..
It helped . And ill never do that again . Lessons learnt the hard way. Is it ok to use copper grease or none . The harley sportster book doesnt say anything ?
+ALHD 48 If its an engine casing on the outside like maybe the primary case.. then just a light smear of copperslip will mean it is properly lubricated so the torque wrench gets it all the way fully seated safely, and and the reduced drag will keep the new thread safe.. getthe torque setting right, and it wont come out mate..
sir, I have a silly question, is that nickel anti seize compound magnetic, because it has nickel in it? and is it silver in color. Im doing some fun project and looking to buy one. please reply I couldnt find it elsewhere
As a youngster I remember putting the exhausts back on my RD350 and 'wisely' using common or garden grease. did not take long to vanish into a cloud of putrid smoke (from the wrong end) and fill the barn so we had to abandon ship or choke to death, How we laughed.
Top vid as always Del. Without wanting to jinx it.. what's going on with the weather, the warm Christmas on record, ride safe and happy holidays you two.
+GTs Garage You already have mate, rained all day today here, wind, and bloody cold now... thank mate.. lol! Merry Chrimbo big fellah, have a great and squiffy time, and see you in the new year for sure... D&P.
I have gray anti seize can i use it in place of blue locktight on an ar buffer tube? Or should I get the locktight....or just pin in place with punch and hammer? Thanks for any help
Hi buddy, that grey anti-seize sounds like the graphite version, just as good as copper and if you're specification calls for threadlock, then that's what you should use, anti-seize will not stop things shaking loose, threadlock is form of glue that helps to prevent that...and a pin punch method is classic old school stuff and will work really well for a flush fitting screw.
I have R&G Aero crash protectors for my CB1000R which bolt into the engine mounts. Would it be a good idea to use copper grease on these or a bit of threadlock? I have a torque wrench so they will be correctly tightened up.
2 Questions, HD recommends I use the Silver Anti Seize for my Axles (not the copper), Trumpet states I should use a bearing grease on my Axles. Why you think that is? Also if I have been using the Silver Anti Seize on my bikes can I just start using the Copper instead? I ask because the Silver/Nickel stuff is twice the price as Copper.
+luxlamf There is nothing inferior about Coppergrease, it's perfectly adequate for the job, but the aluminium graphite stuff is simply a much higher spec. that you don't really need... in scientific terms, it has a much higher melting point and as the graphite particles are hard it is more crush resistant in extreme tolerances... none of which will be reached on a regular road motorcycles! You can change over from one to the other, just clean off the old stuff and apply the new!
+Moonfleet41 Thanks, still wondering why HD calls for Anti Seize on its axles and Trumpet says grease though, I would assume my wheel bearings are in grease...
Hello, you were talking about stainless fastener replacement, what would you suggest as far as torque settings? I’ve over tightened before using settings in Haynes manuals. Now I only use standard steel bolts
This is a thorny subject mate, but I would always suggest to stick with the correct fasteners and the torque settings if you can, old threads that get a lot of action, like sump plugs, can get worn out and weak over the years, then you go to torque in the plug one day and for no apparent reason it strips... it was the dozens of times that plug has been tightened, just a tiny bit too much and stretched the threads just a tiny bit, eventually they give up and strip... stainless fasteners are fine, just make sure they don't rattle loose, because you don't get any of the normal corrosion that you do from regular bolts... so a light dab of blue threadlock can help stop them moving, and just do them up to the min. torque you can, as long as it's within spec.
Hi Joel. To be on the safe side, Delboy is right. But if you need to know: I use stainless fasteners all the time for LOW-LOAD, NON-CRITICAL applications. Please bear in mind that the "stainless steel" commonly available for bolts is NOT AS STRONG as a medium grade steel bolt, e.g. 8.8 grade (ISO 898-1), therefore you cant really apply the manufacturers recommended torque setting to them without the risk of overloading them and snapping them off, especially if you have introduced a lubricant such as anti-seize compound. So if you arent tightening them up properly, the joint is not securely clamped according to the way it was designed and it can fail or shake free. In reality, there is always a bit of leeway in the strength of a bolt, so maybe they wont snap when your tightening them, but your getting into murky territory by using a material that wasnt considered in the original mechanical design. Going deeper into the stainless grades, the first thing to know is that there are literally hundreds of different grades of stainless steel. By far the most common for the nuts and bolts commonly available to us is 304 (18/8, or 18% Cr, 8% Ni) which, in the context of bolts is usually referred to as A2. There is also A4 grade, which is 316, which has more molybdenum added and makes it more corrosion resistant in salt water and maybe slightly stronger, this is usually sold as a "marine grade" fastener. These are available in different strength classes. The standard that covers the stainless bolting grades is BS EN ISO 3506-1.
you confused me right at the end when it seemed you were saying not to use thread lock in alloy threads, but up til that point i was thinking i better get some for things like the bar clamps and riser bolts as the last thing i want is to be wheelying a 200kg bike and the bars to come off the yokes in my hands, but the clamps that hold the bars to the risers are steel bolts into alloy risers and below that the same, steel bolts into the yokes, so what do you suggest, spring washers or just copper slip? cheers
Hi buddy, it is confusing, and am sorry that it isn't always clear, above all things, you don't want the bolts seizing in place if you wanna remove them in the future - I've never threadlocked handlebar clamps and they've always been fine... as you've got steel in to alloy, the very best product to use would be a graphite anti-seize compound, as long term, and in the presence of salt, copperslip can promote galvanic corrosion, so the grey graphite anti-seize is better... but above all, remember if you threadlock them in with the correct BLUE threadlock, then they will never come out till you intend them to, and they wont' corrode either, as the threadlock acts as a barrier, so either way, it works... I know it's confusing, and again am sorry about that, but there is always an element of common sense attached to these things... and glad to hear you wheelie your bike, stunts rock !
thanks for the clarification, only discovered you this week and subscribed after the first vid', with tips like pinning the chain to free off the front sprocket, never thought of that in 30 years of owning, fixing, building and thrashing bikes, i always used brake or something to block the wheel against the swing arm like a handy pick axe handle or table leg (always seem to have one or the other about ;-) brilliant tutorials, and am no great stunter, but at 51 riding a bike still brings out the hooligan in me even when i was just thinking i'd calmed down!
i heard copper grease isnt good for steel to ally joints as it causes galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals and corrodes quicker than it would otherwise, i suggest another grease like graphite
Hay hi, thanks for answering so quick ,and detailed, but i think i must have explained it wrong, my problem is. Which i need help, to some how rethread or keep a nut on, with somthing, thread lock, this coil thing im not sure, hence seeking help from your self. The threads on my crankshaft plus the thread on the nut, are buggered.lol i thought ov dieing the thread, on the crankshaft. And then may be some ov this stuff your explaining, to strengthen the crankshaft and bolt. But im not sure,whaich stuff, becouse ov the heat that will come, plus the tourch ov the nut.! Please help.?lol sorry
Hi again Matthew, understand what you're saying ... it will be almost impossible to simply use threadlock compound to hold together a damaged thread... it will always come loose... so it's important to repair the thread first, you can put a helicoil in the end of the crank shaft hole and you don't need threadlock, it will stay in there just fine by itself... and then when you add the bolt, you can fit threadlock to the bolt itself, which is heat resistant and will be fine... but if the thread on that bolt is damaged, then you will need to buy a new bolt!... so a new bolt in to a helicoil in the crank is what you need to do.. can you get this bolt?? Is it something that's available where you are??
I just put my Buell motorcycle motor back in the frame and used anti-seize and no thread lock. Not because of this video because I just came upon this a few minutes ago. But I sure am glad I watched your video and it certainly makes sense to me. Buell recommends threadlock but I agree with you and the heck with Buell.
Another very good video Del. i have been biking for 50 ,yes 50 years, and have learnt more since I found your channel 3 weeks ago than in all those years. Brilliant keep 'em coming.
+Mick Lawrence Hi MIck, good to hear from you mate... and thanks so much for your kind faith and generous comments... am glad the videos can help you, and it's greta to hear from someone with way more riding experience than me! All the best my friend, thanks for watching, cheers, D&P!
Fantastic video Delboy! Both thread lock and anti seize I believe are overlooked by too many. Cheap, very simple items like these two help us in the garage now and in the future. Keep it up sir this is my favorite channel!
+Adam S. Thanks Adam, collect any bike from the main dealer after a service, and you'll find it all over the bike..!
hi I'm 16 and have been riding since last Christmas I just want to thank you for showing me how to maintain my bike and other tips and tricks. Have a good Christmas
+Stephen Mcallister Hi Stephen, how fantastic to hear from you... people of your riding experience are the ones we target the channel at most... you are the riders of tomorrow in who's hands we will leave our lifestyle to continue in to the future... it's great to be able to help you, my friend, and great to hear that you've taken up the spanners yourself to take care of your bike - keep it that way, mate, that's exactly how it should be ! All the best, enjoy your holidays and ride safe... D&Px PS. drop us a line any time you need any help...
+Moonfleet41 much appreciated have a great Christmas
God damn. I can't get enough of these videos. I love it.
Looking forward to the next one Del.
+bgs4tw Thanks buddy, much appreciated !
Delboy,
First, I want to thank you for your videos. I'm In Chicago, Illinois, USA learning more from you than anyone else.
Please keep posting videos, they are not going unnoticed and people are learning alot from your wisdom.
I think your niche is for the motorcyclist who is between garage owner and regular joe.
Money! Black shirts = "Delboy's garage" ( add graphic) can bring in some well-deserved income for you and your wife.
Thank you!
Patrick
+Patrick John Photography Hi Patrick, Thank you so much for your kind comments, and great support, a chanell is nothing without its loyal viewers...
We did a run of T-Shirts and hoodies last year, and they went down very well indeed.... so we'll be doing some clothing again later in the spring once we get straight and squared away in the new home... maybe this time some cool long sleeve T-shirts (my favorite kind) and some BB caps as i love them... and all with the red DBG logo on black... We will post a video when the time comes to garner interest and guage how many we'll need... Take care and have a safe and happy new year my friend... D&P.
Once more, another very well explained topic pointing out actual application usage. Thanks for this information, I’ll certainly remember. The points raised.
Mystery demystified. Thanks so much for taking the time to categorize and explain what goes where when!
+Steve Pearce Thank Steve, glad you enjoyed it, i really enjoyed making this one.. simple stuff aye.
MY GOD... the amount of knowledge on this video is amazing. THANK YOU.
Thanks mate, just passing it on!
Your videos are great, you explain things very well and tell us about the how’s and why’s as well as very interesting tips and examples. Keep up the good work !
Thank you Fred, I appreciate that!
Wow. By far the most Intuitive RUclips video I’ve ever seen on any topic. Well done. I’ve watched a ton of RUclips videos. Your the first I’ve ever subscribed to.
Think I have a man crush. Knowledge is power!
Cheers.
You're most welcome Keith, glad you enjoyed it, welcome aboard and thank you for the support,
whooa! your vast knowledge ,sir, on materials and craftsmanship is huge, but now you should get a degree in chemistry ! merry christmas to all of ya folks!
+Boril Apostolov Thanks Boril, you're very kind... glad you enjoy the videos, we really appreciate the support, merry xmas !
Good info. I was wondering about using copper grease or thread locker on car thermostat bolts. This answers it. Even so, I won't use copper grease because of risk of the bolt undoing from vibration. I will instead use high temperature RTV as a sealer for the threads. RTV is a very weak glue but seals well, and it doesn't increase the risk of the bolt undoing.
Just lost a brake caliper bolt the other day so I'll be investing in some of these. Brilliant video, plenty learnt! Many thanks!
Thanks George, much appreciated!
Keep em coming Del, love this stuff..like watching "HOW" when i was a kid..nice work can't wait for the next one...
+Frank Krantz Thanks Frank, much appreciated mate !
Hi Del and Penny,
Just wanted to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and Happy New year, looking forward to next year and some decent weather! plan is to get along to a the first available meet a share a brew.
All the best
Dave
+Muckateers Hi Dave, thank for your kind wishes, have a great Christmas and prosperous new year, and see you on a meet soon.. all the best.. D&P
This video is great! As someone who want's to do the job properly, but doesn't have a lot of first hand mechanical or engineering knowledge the array of workshop consumables can be bewildering!
+Simon Liddiard Sure thing Simon, its not always made obvious on the packaging either aye... glad we could help you... take care.. Del.
Thank you for the summary of the technologies, brands, uses, examples, and recommendations!
This is the information that I love to get. I am retired and enjoy fixing things and this kind of information is scarce. Thankyou!
Very informative! When I'm doing maintenance on paper machines I use never seize compounds all the time. Between the fact the bolts are always exposed to water and chemicals it would be impossible to removed any bolts in the future without the protection that it provides.
Brilliant vids I did level 1 to 3 light vehicle mechanic 20 years ago & always either learning new skills or topping up what you already know/thought I knew or forgot. When I was target shooting many gun smiths used nail varnish instead of threadlock. Question why do manufacturers still use none stainless bolts/studs for headers when it's a well known snapping/corrosion problem.
+james grocott Nail varnish is a great surrogate threadlock, and it can fix a ladder in your tights too apparently..lol Glad you enjoyed the video, have a great Christmas.. Del.
Another good tutorial Del.My own rule of thumb is"am I likely to revisit this in the next year or so.Coppaslip it.If not, threadlock it.I've got 3 tins,moly,lithium and copper grease that I've had for at least a decade,and they still cost about a fiver each.Best money you could spend.And I'm Scottish.A mate of mine ,who was a bus mechanic,gave me a big tub of bolts and Nyloc nuts.Best money I've never spent.Be safe,.....Gregg
+gregg ferns That's the best presents aye buddy? Thanks for your kind support, have a great xmas and we'll be loading more vids over the holidays, all the best, D&P!
There is also loctite plumbing threadlock/sealant that you can you instead of flax fibers or silicone tape and it hardens on contact with water or anaerobically.
Once again a great video! thanks so much.
You mentioned to use a bit of thread lock on Stainless Steel bolts, but not to have thread lock in Aluminium. What would you recommend to do when I have Stainless Steel bolt going into Aluminium?
OK, first of all, is it a bolt that's liekly to vibrate free? You don't need threadlock on every single bolt or fastener, mst engines these days have stainless fasteners in to aluminium and if they're correctly torqued in place, they should stay put! However, if you're worried, then just a tiny dab of blue threadlock won't do any harm.
Delboy's Garage sorry, forgot to mention - was regering to yoke bolts. thank you!
Good video again Del. How about stainless to stainless? It's awful stuff to get apart once it's picked up and straight anti-seize doesn't always cut the mustard like say,Tribol. I'm not sure about stuff like Loctite Studlock being permanent, it just seems to hold better... like a plastic with a higher shear value. You really do get the message across and I've learned a lot from you. Thanks for posting.
+TheRunereaper Best thing I've ever found with stainless to stainless (provided it's cold) is simple Blue Threadlock... it acts as it's own corrosion inhibitator, but you don't need much if it's a precision thread, just a dab!
Really enjoyed this, good format and excellent knowledge and teaching skills.
+Harry Baker Thank you most kindly Sir, am glad you enjoy the videos, it's always important to spread a little knowledge out there to our fellow bikers aye?? !
Sorry re the Harley Road King question below - my confusion is that the hub is ally and the bolts are steel/titanium and the disc will get hot. The manual mentions nothing about the rota fitting using any kind of locking agent.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanx again.
Cheers 👍
Brilliant man. I really like the format as well. Looking forward to this big announcement over the holiday. All the best to you and Penny and your families over this holiday season and may 2016 be your best year yet! Take care my friend.
+Iron Slim Thanks Scott, wishing you and your family the same... contracts all exchanged last night on the new place, so should be in my the New Year! But a slow process as the new workshop needs the DBG T.L.C. to get it operational ! Merry Xmas, D&Px
To loosen a nut or something that has threadlock applied to it. Just re-apply "fresh" threadlock onto the already hardened threadlock compund. The chemical reaction will soften the threadlock compound and you can just unscrew the nut after a few minutes. Just make sure you leave some threadlocker visible when you apply it in the first place...
Another great video , it's been a pleasure to view your videos this year and want to thank you both for what has become a fantastic channel. Have a great Christmas and New Year, have a rest but not too long :) Paul
+Paul Bickley Ha ha, thanks Paul, you're very kind, we wont be having a rest, got three videos planned for the bikes, and a huge announcement about the garage itself...
Well done presentation and very helpful... I think I finally understand now, thanks! Hi to Penny!
+Byron Anderson Hi Byron, thank you most kindly Sir, Penny will be back soon, working flat out up till Christmas day, then we have lots of much more interesing things to do, and a big move coming too...!!! Hope you and the five are all well, take care and hap[y holidays.. D&P.
Great level of detail here, Prof. Del, thanks for posting. I use one or the other of these on just about every bolt on the Ducati. I suppose it's similar to the Harleys: a lot of twin-vibration going on that pushes a variety of fasteners out. After becoming a regular track day rider, I went to the next level on most of the 'crucial' bolts and have them safety-wired now.
+Track848 Hey buddy, thanks for your kind comments, year, lockwiring is just about as hard core as it gets..lol Great to hear from you as always.. Del.
What about spraying cold galvanizing compound on your threads? Also, cotter pins and safety wire. I don't have any castle nuts, so I drill a cotter pin hole through the bolt just past the nut, but I think it would work better keeping the nut from turning if it were through the nut, but then you compromise the bolt and nut strength...
Hi. Thanks for the useful information . So from what I understand from this vid, the better product for a vehicle caliper bracket bolt (carrier bolt) , is copper slip rather than a thread lock?
Certain people argue that with anti-seize, these bolts can get loose with vibrations etc - any truth in this?
I was told that threadlock actually sets only under pressure be it that it only needs a very little but never over time unless the pressure is there. I use to fly radio controlled helicopters and if you got a drop on the workbench it or had a bolt covered with it but not wound a nut onto it then it would never cure as such, hence why it never goes off in a bottle. I had quite a debate with a rep over it and he insisted that it is not a glue and requires a condition before it solidifies. Thanks for the explanation of the copper slip and graphite explanation, didnt know you could put it on the back of a brake pad to stop vibration sound, again thanks heaps for the videos, your a legend for sharing so much!
+VlogBiker Hi mate... yes, copper slip on the back of btake pads stops the squeel..but no more then butter in a biscuit aye.. Rather than deate the threadlock thing... experiment yourself... take a loose fitting nut and bolt, one that spins on freely... fill the thread with threadlock.. slip the nut on loosely, applying NO pressure, so you have a 'full nut', and leave it for 45 minutes... then come back and tell me what you found...?
Moonfleet41 yeah I actually went out into the workshop last night and did that exact test very sloppy loose nut... lol, it was rock solid this morning. but the other bolt with no nut on it but resting against a piece of metal was still liquid and the two strips of metal with loctite between them was also liquid. Going to try two very flat peices today at the workshop at my office and place them in a vice and see what that yields.
Great video of knowledge,your my top #3 RUclipsr for any MC or tool usage … Have you ever taught in a classroom ? I was a little misinform on how and when to use these products.Thanks Delboy,
Thank you for your kind words, im just a mechanic, and happy to share my experiences. Really appreciate your feedback.
Awesome video. What your opinion on using antiseize on various bolts on dirt bike/motorcycles? I am mostly concerned with smaler diameter bolts going into aluminum engine cases, inserts in plastic gas tank, triple clamp, axle pinch and swing arm etc..
I hear that these threads are prone to galling and that antiseize can help. I know you need to reduce torque when using antiseize, though. I have hear anywhere from 15% to 40% torqued reduction. This is a huge range, and i would be worried about under/over torquing when using antiseize.
great video. Just started my bike build and was really concerned with where to use what for safety.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing ! I don't know if there are many parts that are made out of titanium in the world of motorcycles, but apparently you should definitely use copper based anti-seize when using steel bolts on those components. At least that's what I've heard. Perhaps your experience is different, in that cas I'd be interested in reading what you think about it ! Cheers
Yup, bolting SS or Tit into bare alu will become a drama once you need to disassemble the parts
The more dissimilar the metals, the faster/worse galling will become, fusing the metals together and ruining the thread of the lesser material
This is why bike manufs. (apart from costs) use galvanized steel bolts (with threadlock) instead of stainless
This is the list of dissimilar materials, the further they are separated, the worse galling will be between them:
Gold
Graphite
Silver
Stainless steel, type 316
Titanium
Nickel (passive)
Silver solder
Bronze
Copper
Brass
Tin
Lead
Cast iron
Mild steel
Aluminum
Cadmium
Galvanized steel
Zinc (often used as a sacrificial anode in marine environments)
Magnesium
For your viewers in the US, Permatex (know for their excellent gasket sealers) makes an anti-seize compound that you paint on the threads with the brush attached to the can lid.
Thanks Del for a very informative video. I've never seen the tubed stuff, always used the liquid stuff and, yes, I've stood on it and squirted it everywhere and it ain't cheap. Happy Crimble to you and Penny.
+Tony Little Ha ha, you too aye?, aint enfuryating....and you always do it to a new tube too lol.. merry Christmas mate, enjoy the holiday... D&P.
Cheers Del ,
Thank you for sending that link for toque T bar wrench now another bit quality for the toolbox and loving your videos
Cheers
Mark.
Most welcome Mark, good investment mate.. thanks for your support and kind feedback..
extremely informative video! thank you very much! just in time for my CB1000R! picking it up in 4 days!
Enjoy your new bike Ersan - have fun !
Excellent classroom video, very informative. I've always been confused by these products. But then again, confusion is my middle name!
+thehexter1 Blimey, and i thought it was my middle name..lol Thanks mate, glad the video helped you out, always drop me a line f you get stuck.
We're all confused, and idiots as well! Have a great Christmas or whatever it is you & the little lady celebrate!
Great Video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you need special sockets for Triumph Motorcycles? I own a 2010 Triumph Speedmaster. I was going to replace the crank position sensor, but none of my sockets fit the right hand cover screws. A 7 mm is too small, an 8 mm is a bit loose, but I can't find any 7.5 mm or a 10/32 SAE socket here in Chicago. How about doing a video on the type of tools needed to work on the triumph bikes and where you we buy them?
+Gene Chicago Hi Gene... thats very odd, all the fasteners on Triumphs these days are just regular metric...i take mine out with an 8mm socket and no problems... do you think that maybe sombody has changed them?... its unlikely i would think... there are many size scales still in use in the engineering world, most people only know Metric or A/F (American fine), commonly refered to as just "Imperial" but in fact there as a few other "Imperial scales" that will give you what you need...
you're right there is no 10/32, that is 5/16 AF, which is 7.94mm
Then there is the old "Whitworth" scale, so 3/32W is 7.54mm
and finally there is the ols pre1940's "BA scale, so 3BA is 7.16mm
You can buy any of these tools from good quality suppliers like Snap-On, or Blue Point....and if you need it for such an important job, then just investing in that one size may be affordable...
Hope that helps you sir...
Cheers
Del.
+Moonfleet41 Thank you for replying. The sockets I have are from GM and the size is stamped on the socket. I'll buy some 8 mm sockets from different brands, and the Whitworth ones too, to see if that makes a difference. You're awesome for sharing your knowledge. Have a good day!
Fantastic! Your videos have saved me much $$, time, frustration and the info you share is very good! Thank you!
Nice one, as always, thanks 😊
I have an Ali hub which has steel bolts into it - for break disc one side and belt drive on the other.
The old ones were very difficult to remove due to age and corrosion. The manual called for thread lock but the thought of trying to get them out again at some point freaked me out so I just toques them in with a little copper ease on them. Should I just keep and eye on them or do you think I should strip it and thread lock it?
Also the red bottle of thread lock has blue lock in it - is this the permanent one you said not to use.
Thank you in advance for your advice and thank you for you continued vids and advice.
Cheers 👍🤜
NO John, you must use thread lock on your hub, just like the manual says.. don't worry about getting them out.. if the threads are clean when you assemble them with threadlock, then there is no room for corrosion, the threadlock actually inhibits that.. if you have any trouble removing bolts that have threadlock then just apply a little heat to the heads and that will melt it..! Good luck and hope that helps.
@@Moonfleet41 excellent, will do. Thank you for that. 👍
Sorry to ask but …. The bike is a 2004 Road King rear wheel. Looking at the Harley Manual (thanx for that good advice to get it - they are good like you said😊) the drive sprocket it says “apply two drops of red 271” I am a bit worried as it will need to be replaced at some time. Would the less permanent blue thread lock be ok?
The disc rota has no mention of using thread lock however it had thread lock in, I guess from the factory. So should I also use the same blue lock on the rota as well ? The bolts I replacing are more like the stainless type so I would guess yes. Please advise?
Thank you for your help. I am a bit of a worrier and just want to do the right thing.
Thank you in advance.
Plumbers always use a special fitting when connecting copper pipe to (galvanized) steel pipe because of the electrolysis between the 2 dissimilar metals. So what about this Copper Slip that seems to be so popular in the UK? Is it not subject to electrolysis as well? I’ve always used the grey anti-seize with graphite in it as I’ve no worries about Electrolysis and because it works. What do you think?
I removed the front end of my cbr 929rr and started watching your videos. I have an OCD way of doing things and it always gets me into trouble. I used antisieze on every bolt evolving aluminum and other materials. I however didn't realize I should have backed my torque down a bit and ended up doing more damage to my threads than I would have without the antisieze. I used helicoils to recover my mistakes but how do I know what torque setting to use when using antisieze? I did lower it 2lbs but clearly it wasn't enough. I appreciate all your videos. Great job!
Hi Milton. i have heard that claim a few times, but also that fasteners must be lubricated to slide in without resistance, and drag in the thread can lead to a false reading... but as you pointed out, i didn't work for you... i dont know how much you would need to back off by... maybe check with the manufacturer for their spec..?
Torque is a very approximate way to measure how tight bolts should be. But we have to use it because thats all we can measure in most practical circumstances. What we are actually try to control is the amount of preload on the bolt which relates to the amount of clamping force achieved. Unfortunately, the preload on the bolt is affected by many factors, one of the main factors is the friction of the thread and underhead surfaces. So if you grease up a bolt and torque it down, you can exceed the intended preload and even overload and snap the bolt. See also about using copper-based anti-seize on bolts going into aluminium... not recommended.
Here's a question: Stainless steel bolts holding brake calipers together; not mounting them to the fork, but joining two halves of a block together. Brembo gold ones, in this case. In the past when doing a rebuild, they've always seized mightily, and I've resorted to drilling them out. If I replace with stainless bolts, "which have a tendency to rattle loose," should I anti-seize or leave them be? No thread lock, obviously, since calipers get so hot...
Good question Sam.. so thinking logically, having to drill them out is no big drama.. but having them fall out, well that kinda is..! So if it was me, i'd lock the bolts in with thread lock so they stay put, and remember, threadlock forms a resin layer between the two surfaces actually helping to prevent corrosion.. bone dry bolts can corrode solid.. thread locked bolts cannot..! so when you want to break them loose again, they'll give you no problems mate.!
@@Moonfleet41 Gracious cheers back to you from a stateside fan. You've helped me do a lot of things on my favorite 26 year old redhead (Ducati 900SS). Will do: a light smear of blue Loctite when those stainless bolts (and new seal kit) arrive (both from your side of the pond, btw.)
@@pneumadeux Most welcome Sir, and thank you for your awesome support.. Oh, and "Ducati 900SS"? Simply Beautiful.!
And if you have already put thread locker on a steel bolt to an aluminum body... What is the more secure way to remove it?
Excellent, as always 😊
How can I remove thread lock from a female thread surrounded by painted surface?
Thank you in advance.
Safe rides 👍🤜
Try gently running a thread tap down the hole, work backwards and forwards gently, and then blow out with an airline... good luck with it, let us know how you get on!
Sorry to ask more but .... I have a
2004 Road King rear wheel.
Looking at the Harley Manual (thanx for that good advice to get it
- they are good like you said).
For the belt drive sprocket it says "apply two drops of red 271" I am a bit worried as it will need to be replaced at some time relatively soon and don’t want to complicate removal process. Would the less permanent Loctite 2400 medium strength thread locker be ok?
The disc rota has no mention of using thread lock however it had thread lock in, I guess from the factory. So should I also use the same Loctite 2400 on the rota as well or just copper ease?
The bolts I replacing are more like the stainless type so I would guess yes. Please advise?
Thank you for your help. I think I know the answer but I am a bit of a worrier and just want to do the right thing.
Thank you in advance. Keep up the fantastic work 😊😊.
With all respect my friend, you are overthinking it a little... go ahead and use the red threadlock if it gives you confidence in the security of the fasteners and if you ever need to remove them in the future, just apply a little heat to the bolt head with a small blowtorch, not enough to make it change colour, and that will melt the threadlock. If you are using stainless fasteners, there's no need for anti-seize products as they shouldn't corrode in place, but it's then possible they can vibrate a little loose, so just a dab of blue threadlock will be fine on each bolt to hold it in place. That's all you need to do, don't loose any sleep over it buddy and enjoy the process.
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you so much. Overthinking it 🤔 sounds like me 🤣😂
You are a total star. Thank you for everything 👍👍
Cheers mate. Safe rides 👍🤜
Great video, so... dont use locktit on break calipers?
Great vid as always Del but this is what gets me. As threadlock (locktight to us mortals) requires both surfaces to be clean, i.e. it won't work on previously locktight-ed threads. Whilst you can clean the bolt you can't always clean the thread that the bolt screws into which means locktight-ing a second time or is useless. It's why I use copper-slip EVERYWHERE. I'd be interested in your thoughts. Best regards.
Be concious buddy that anti-seize isn't always appropriate, specially if you own a Harley, sometimes fasteners can shake loose, so it's important to consider that, and it's even advised in some Harley Davidson service manuals... but don't forget you can chase a thread through with a tap, or you can ever buy specialised thread cleaning taps which are less aggressive and won't cut any metal... plus of course, also as I'm sure you know, threadlock is melted by heat, so it's perfectly ok, if you can't chase a thread though, to pop a tiny jet lighter flame inside the thread which will liquify any threadlock debris and effectively re-activate it when added with a little fresh threadlock on the bolt... and just being really pedantic, Locktite is a brand name... like Levis and Fairy Liquid! Threadlock comes by many other brands as well, but that's just picky and pretty much irrelevant!
@@Moonfleet41 You're definitely the man Del. It's Friday night for crying out loud. But your reply is greatly appreciated. Harley vibes? No, two Goldwings, a 1981 GL1100 and a 2004 GL1800 so nothing shaking loose here. Top man Del, appreciate.
@@michaelhoare5291 Aha, a fellow WingNut! I explained about the legendary smoothness to our Penny, but she didn't believe me when I said 'you can stand a 50p on it's edge, on the rocker cover, when the engine's running!',,, so I proved it, so you're definitely right, you won't have any vibe issues there!! ...I ended up buying the matt black one I did the headstock bearings on, it's a bit of a 'wasteland' bike, but has quite a pedigree, it's due cam belts in the Spring, as I've no record when they were changed, they're not due till 100k, and it's 40k short of that at this point... but at 28yrs old, you can't be too careful, and they don't cost much... it's not a pretty bike, so we call it 'Goliath the ShedWing'!... which is a great conversation opener wherever we park it!! Haven't met any WingNuts when out and about on it yet, am sure I won't get the best reaction from all of them. but hey, it's a Wing and the heart & soul of smooth serenity (and Penny says theback seat is like a LazyBoy armchair (at least I think that's what she said)...
@@Moonfleet41 Never took you you for a Wingnut Del. As beautiful as the 2018+, is and the engine, it's an ST1800 not a Goldwing. And don't get me on to the flaccid front suspension and luggage capacity. Makes me hoot at the 2021 model lauding a 60ltr trunk upgrade. The gen1 GL1800 had 60lrs and bigger saddlebags. The 1100 is my black beauty.
@@michaelhoare5291 Oh yes indeed buddy, there are many things we don't make public, love my old ShedWing and we don't care who knows it lol and specially love getting the under carriage down on corners... ;-) there's something I want you to check out, which you may or may not love... it's a Channel featuring GoldWings, but it's absolutely positively NOT what you'd expect... take a look: ruclips.net/channel/UClS7VlOLbHRX04uHmJTidaA
Just found your videos, very informative, I like the way you work. I had to comment though because I saw you using Copaslip on a swingarm in another vid. I started using Copaslip on bikes a long time ago, and once in a while I found it wasnt helping, it almost appeared to be making it worse. I started to look into it and found that Copaslip is recommended for steel-on-steel applications, although they never seem to tell you this on the package. I had an old RD and had issues, for example with the pad retaining pins seizing in place. I started using Copaslip on them and then found it was just as bad the next time I went to change the pads. This is when I looked into it and found that Molyslip (the folk that make Copaslip) also make Alumslip which is a light grey clour. This is what I use on my bikes all the time now (i.e. for about 20 years) and have not had problems since. In fact, when I work on new bikes, I often see what looks like Alumslip in certain places, e.g. caliper bolts, etc, so I suspect its something like this they use. I am a metallurgist by profession and this makes complete sense to me. I have never seen copper grease on a new bike, but then, I havent seen them all. Although I have heard that Copaslip was not designed primarily to work as a galvanic protection (e.g. like zinc galvanising on steel), I believe there is an element of it at play. I contacted the Molyslip technical line by phone, and they commented that Copaslip is designed primarily as a barrier between two surfaces. However, I believe the copper in Copaslip will help to protect steel, the same way that zinc does; the copper or zinc is more reactive and corrodes; in doing so it creates a corrosion cell and "sacrificially protects" the steel in the same way that sacrificial anodes work on steel hulled ships. However, aluminium is more reactive than copper, so when we put Copaslip on a steel bolt threaded into aluminium, the aluminium corrodes preferentially. Anyhow, I wanted to pass this on. I have not done a scientific study of this or anything, but I've certain found it working in practice over the years....
Are you aware, (im sure you are), of the vastly different melting point of the two..650c vs 1100c so if you're using Alumslip on your brakes, then im sure you're mindful that it's far more likely to melt and flow in extreme conditions..! Just a factor i consider.!
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Dellboy... no, I'd use Copaslip on the back of the pads. I wouldnt have a problem putting it on the mounting bolts, caliper bolts & pins etc. In any case, if they were getting anywhere near the melting point of aluminium, I dont think they'd make the calipers from an aluminium alloy.... Anyway, my brakes dont see extreme conditions on account that I ride like a pussy most of the time.
very good video again mate, gonna be working shifts over xmas so wanna take this chance to wish you and penny all the very best for christmas and the new year, thank you so much for the vids this year and long may it continue, you have saved me and othrs lots of cash, so i hope santa brings you some thing good, and hopefully a christmas bloopers...that would be funny... all the best pal
+Bazza Yamaha FZS Thanks Bazza... merry christmas to you too buddy... glad to the videos have helped you out... may do a merry christmas video over the holidays and got a couple of jobs to do on the bikes... but a big announcement coming for the new year! Have fun, all the best, D&Px
Lol, "Don't confuse the two." I was thinking the same thing.Trying to figure out what watch you're wearing...
Sir wheel bolt which kind grease use.? And car teo hock point which kind grease use
Very useful. I’m new to motorbike maintenance and your videos are really helpful. I’m very familiar with galvanic corrosion, doesn’t copper slip accelerate that when used in aluminium? Also what are the effects on torque ratings? Is there a danger of over torquing due to the lubricant effect?
Pure copper is a tad harder (3 mohs) material than aluminum(2.5 to 3 mohs for pure Alu)
But bikes are often harder alu alloys, copper powder combined with the grease, will not solidify as easily and galling is also diminished
As for torque ratings, when applying any kind of grease or threadlock, always torque down a little lower than the boltspec prescribes
Just watched your clip, very interesting. But you didn't mention not to use st/steel nuts on st/steel bolts. For some reason they fur up and its a bugger of a job to get them apart.
Hi Del & Penny
Sorry to bring up a 12 month old thread, but I have a question if thats okay.
I'm trying to bring an old VFR750 back to it's prime and so far have had to drill out 4 fairing bolts to get some panels off (was careful not to melt the panels) and they were SOLID. Now my question would be should I use threadlock on the mudguard and fairing fastener bolts or copper slip? The mudguard goes onto the fork lowers (I presume these are aluminium), and the panel bolts would go into steel (i presume) receiver nuts.
At the moment I havent bought replacement bolts but the bolt kits online seem to all be stainless steel so will probably go that way.
Hi Christopher, you dont need anything on them buddy, use the stainless ones, and just fit them in securely without over doing it.. they'll stay there and wont corrode.... never use threadlock, they wont come out buddy... just a smear of regular grease is fine mate.. ! Good lukc wiht the bike, and Merry Christmas.. Del.
I have in the past used wood varnish and nail varnish as gheto thread lock, it seems to work but takes a bit longer to cure.
+Karl the Dingbat Superglue, touchup stick paint, nail varnish, fiberglass resin, UHU glue, or even plumbers tape... use what you have aye mate...lol
Great video as always.a little off topic but what kind of watch are you wearing? I'm going to try to save this as I can never remember. I only have 2 brain cells left and it's hard to get them to get together and do anything.🤔 I just realized I just proved my point. Thanks
Hi Delboy.
Nice video. I have been using Red rubber greece instead of copper greece and found that has not dried up and disappeared.
Thanks
YOU'RE A GOOD TEACHER. I NEEDED THIS. THANKS FROM CALIFORNIA.
You are so welcome William, Happy Holidays and keep safe there.
Can I use molybdenum instead of copper ease on rear of brake pads etc I got a tub a decade ago not used, and does any of this type of stuff go off , great vids by the way, do u have a video on basic workshop tools .
Yes mate, pretty much its just for vibration absorption, so as long as it doesn't melt wit heat (which moly grease doesnt), then its fine.
Hi Delboy , thanks for the massive library of Bikey vids, use your vids all the time for education , reference and conformation that i am doing the job right and safely. Currently just about to put front break calliper back to gather and refit back on the bike. I had previously decided not to go near my breaks but after watching your videos I was inspired and the confidence that your videos had given me was awesome and what seamed a daunting task became an enjoyable tinkering self-satisfying oily job.
Thanks a bunch Del & Pen
While I'm on i do have a couple of questions though.
Bobbins on the bach break disk seem different than the front how do i free them up like the front?
I have a 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 and looking to change the exhaust , three bolts , what is the best way to go about getting bolts out without snapping them and will it be copper slip when putting them back in.
And lastly would i need to have some kind of jetting after putting a stubby can on from the 3 bolt flange?
Thanks from Col another monkey idiot with loads of dangerous tools trying to get into the collective ............lol
hi Col, thanks for your cool message mate... to answer your disc question first, there are no bobbins on the back disc, its solidly mounted mate... and to get stuck bolts out its just a perfect fitting socket of alun key, and lots of leverage... it the head starts ro mince, then dont just round it off... you can spray some WD40 over it so it penetrates down into the thread, and then give it a go again in about ten minutes.... there's no instant fix for that mate.. its just practice and patience aye... And for the refit.. no, you should be ok for just a stubby can on the factory header pipe.... see how it runs, if you have any flat spots then you may need to deal with it.. but mine was fine.
Thanks for your kind support mate, enjoy Your Bandit, and take care..
De;l.
Thank you very much, i've been watching your videos. It's been really amazing on how you can really explain everything clearly.
I started using Anti-seize back in 1994 when I had a hard time to remove original spark plugs from my brand new Mazda 323 if you can believe it. I even twisted one of those universal swivel spark plug sockets wrenches with a T handle. Went back to store and got me proper 3/8" set which I'm still using today. My former friend loaned to me can of Anti-seize and tube of Dielectric Tune-up Grease. Until that moment I never heard of those extremely useful compounds. I use it on almost any bolt and I always use a torque wrench to tighten every bolt to factory specs.
I sometimes worry, how does use of Anti-seize on treads effects torque value?
For instance, NGK doesn't recommend using Anti-seize on spark plugs with special metal plating (Zinc-chromate plating), but their website says to reduce torque by 30% when using Anti-seize.
I never had any problem with spark plugs and I keep replacing them every two years on all of my vehicles.
yes lubricants on threads affect torque specs, do an internet search there are plenty of charts out there
What about using silicone grease for brake calipers?
I think that I read somewhere that it is a suitable substitute for thermal grease such as copper anti-seize lubricants.
Thanks!
+Ken Cosi I've read a similar thing stating that silicon grease is better due to it not being a petroleum based product. Apparently the petroleum in copper grease eats away at rubber such as the seals on calliper pistons. I used it when i changed the callipers on my car and have never had a problem. Any thoughts Del ?
Boarder 74, thanks for backing me up on this. What I need to know is in general does silicone grease have the same high thermal properties as anti-seize grease? Yeah Del, what's your take on this? Can I use this or not?
+Ken Cosi You don't use copper grease on rubber seals EVER... so whether it eats away at them or not is irrelevant, you shouldn't put it on them and if you want to know whether your silicone grease is heat proof, then just try setting fire to it... you'll soon get your answer ! Personally, I've never used it...
Very informative, appreciate it bruh!
Had a tough time getting car tire / rim off wheel to change . I had to beat it off with a mini sledge and a block of wood on the rim. Can I use anti freeze on lug nuts and where rim touches metal to metal on the car wheel ?
If so, where can I apply it to the rim to make tire changing / removal easier ?
+Joseph Wolchak Yes and yes, wire brush lugs and the hub and the back of the rim where it makes contact then clean it off and put a thin film where ever it contacts. Also if its a hub centric rim/hub don't forget to do the same there as well.
Del,
Generally I copper slip everything except the critical bolts which get locked, video made me think!
What about brake rotor bolts? My workshop manual says do up to only 20Nm so feels like threadlock, but with the heat and composition of bolts vs alloy hubs I'm a little bemused which I should use :/
Hi Rich... ive made several videos on bolting discs on the right way, and each one is in great detail and concise... ALWAYS Threadlcok, new bolts of you can afford them, if not then clear out all old threadlock from the bolts thread.... and torque down in a star pattern... its a low torque value because its a torsional force on the bolt (sideways) not a pulling force...
Cool. thanks - sorry, I haven't got to those yet!
Nice video, do you have to worry about cooper slip making booked come undone? For example the previous owner used it on the wheel bolts of my car but I thought best just to do them up dry. If something does not get hot and you don't want it to come undone is just doing it up dry fine? It will this lead to snapped bolts later on?
The presence of any form of grease on a wheel lug will prevent it rusting in place...they get wet with salty road water and they get hot..so they will rust if they're dry.! and Copper slip is far better than grease because it wont melt away.. wheel nuts do get hot... just place your hand in the middle of your wheel after a hard drive with lots of braking.. no need to overdo it, just a very light dab on the thread only, and torque them up to the right level.. they wont come undone buddy... antisieze doesn't mean they come undone, it means they wont seize..!
Can you recommend an anti seize product for ss bolts on aluminum cases of an RD400F? I believe corrosion is a concern as well, so any info is appreciated...I have a tube of Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize #81343, but am not a huge fan of their products...
Alumslip is the way to go. I know your post is from three years ago but hey-ho; better late..... I posted something further up a few minutes ago if you want more detail.
Hey Del, I hope you can help me answer 2 questions:
1- at the end you say tot use Cooper grease for steel on aluminium. well my manual says to use red loctite on the disks to my wheels, which was beyond difficult to take off. what do you recon in this situation? loctite or copper grease?
2- do the different loctite number reffered to in the manuals have much differences? or do only the colours matter for us shed mechanics?
Thanks for all you teach us!
Hey Danny, yeah, this can be confusing... the rule of thumb for general unimportant bolts is to use a little copper slip on steel bolts into alloy to prevent galvanic corrosion... but in really important bolts like your brake discs, you must use a Threadlock so they dont come out.... and yes, you are right, red threadlock is almost permanent.. and almost impossible to get out.... so on brake discs i always use BLUE threadlock, which is semi permanent and easy to get out when you need to... in fact, for pretty much all us shed mechanics do the blue threadlock is just fine... hope that helps.. good luck buddy... del.
Moonfleet41 yes. that definitely helps!
Thanks for the quick response. never needed to stop tinkering... cheers mate.
thanks for that del,, some nice and useful info as always.
wishing you guys a merry Christmas
+Ian Mcd H You too Ian, thanks for watching mate..!
Hey Del, useful video also good to see you resume the street fighter build, ACE, just one question, you spoke about the way exhaust manifold bolts stay in place by virtue of the washer/seal keeping constant pressure which keeps those secure,
is that the same mechanism that keeps the oil sump bolt in place, also do you think it would be a good idea to change sump bolts for magnetic ones?
kind regards Warren
What do you recommend putting on the bolts from a F150 driveshaft? Where it connects to the differential. Blue thread locker? It is steel to steel.
nice video del good to know the difference between the compounds comes in handy seems like whenever stuck on bike just visit your channel lol ride safe
+simon “cueball” gooner Thanks Si, that's how we like it, you know how it is mate, happy to help !
I’m planning to change the OEM brake disc bolts to titanium bolts. I would imagine that it’ll be hot, so i’d have to put on grease. But the service manual says ALOC bolts, which after some googling around - it’s just bolts with thread lock on them. Your thoughts?
Always use some medium strength blue thread lock on disc bolts at least, the hub wont get hot enough to melt it.
Hi Del,
In your HD clutch video you used a 4 to 14nm T bar torque wrench where did you get it from as I have looked all over the web and could find anything ,
Regards,
Mark.
Hi Mark.. Here you go buddy, this link will take you direct to the RECON site and they are usually in stock to buy now mate...
www.reconelectrical.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle--T-Plus-TorqueVario-Set
just discovered your channel which was referenced by another youtuber. Man you are a serious living and breathing encyclopedia...
Hey Del,
Where did you het those big crash bars on that rat bandit you once made, the brand was Jawa or somehting, I want them for my MK2 B ... don't know how to contact you in another way.
Cheers
+Kris Schobben Hi mate, they were 'Jama' brand and they are a discontinued model now, but perhaps do a search and see if you might be able to find a NOS pair... otherwise, maybe Ebay... good luck with your search buddy !
thanks for the video . i stuffed a hole in the primary cover due to using medium thread lock . now i need to put in a time sert . not good at all
+ALHD 48 Yeah, its pretty a pretty common mistake to use threadlock on engine casings, it usualy trashes the thread...its common sense to want to stop the bolt coming out, but this isnt the way as you found... hope the insight helped mate..
It helped . And ill never do that again . Lessons learnt the hard way. Is it ok to use copper grease or none . The harley sportster book doesnt say anything ?
+ALHD 48 If its an engine casing on the outside like maybe the primary case.. then just a light smear of copperslip will mean it is properly lubricated so the torque wrench gets it all the way fully seated safely, and and the reduced drag will keep the new thread safe.. getthe torque setting right, and it wont come out mate..
+Moonfleet41
solid advice brother thanks
sir, I have a silly question, is that nickel anti seize compound magnetic, because it has nickel in it? and is it silver in color. Im doing some fun project and looking to buy one. please reply I couldnt find it elsewhere
As a youngster I remember putting the exhausts back on my RD350 and 'wisely' using common or garden grease. did not take long to vanish into a cloud of putrid smoke (from the wrong end) and fill the barn so we had to abandon ship or choke to death, How we laughed.
+Gearjammer Happy days growing up lol...!
Top vid as always Del. Without wanting to jinx it.. what's going on with the weather, the warm Christmas on record, ride safe and happy holidays you two.
+GTs Garage You already have mate, rained all day today here, wind, and bloody cold now... thank mate.. lol! Merry Chrimbo big fellah, have a great and squiffy time, and see you in the new year for sure... D&P.
Fab video. Even i understood it. Just one question....What's a bolt?😂
Amazing video. Waaay more informative than any other vids I’ve seen on the subject.
I have gray anti seize can i use it in place of blue locktight on an ar buffer tube? Or should I get the locktight....or just pin in place with punch and hammer? Thanks for any help
Hi buddy, that grey anti-seize sounds like the graphite version, just as good as copper and if you're specification calls for threadlock, then that's what you should use, anti-seize will not stop things shaking loose, threadlock is form of glue that helps to prevent that...and a pin punch method is classic old school stuff and will work really well for a flush fitting screw.
I have R&G Aero crash protectors for my CB1000R which bolt into the engine mounts. Would it be a good idea to use copper grease on these or a bit of threadlock? I have a torque wrench so they will be correctly tightened up.
+Goonster As they are steel on steel and don't get hot, plus it's important they don't come off, I'd go with a dab of threadlock...
+Moonfleet41 Cheers, thanks for the tip Del. You look great sat behind a desk! lol
Great video :)
+Goonster Thanks mate, i did enjoy making that..
2 Questions, HD recommends I use the Silver Anti Seize for my Axles (not the copper), Trumpet states I should use a bearing grease on my Axles. Why you think that is? Also if I have been using the Silver Anti Seize on my bikes can I just start using the Copper instead? I ask because the Silver/Nickel stuff is twice the price as Copper.
+luxlamf There is nothing inferior about Coppergrease, it's perfectly adequate for the job, but the aluminium graphite stuff is simply a much higher spec. that you don't really need... in scientific terms, it has a much higher melting point and as the graphite particles are hard it is more crush resistant in extreme tolerances... none of which will be reached on a regular road motorcycles! You can change over from one to the other, just clean off the old stuff and apply the new!
+Moonfleet41 Thanks, still wondering why HD calls for Anti Seize on its axles and Trumpet says grease though, I would assume my wheel bearings are in grease...
+luxlamf Yes, wheel bearings are always on grease...and it must be worked in hard to get it all round the rollers..
Hello, you were talking about stainless fastener replacement, what would you suggest as far as torque settings? I’ve over tightened before using settings in Haynes manuals. Now I only use standard steel bolts
This is a thorny subject mate, but I would always suggest to stick with the correct fasteners and the torque settings if you can, old threads that get a lot of action, like sump plugs, can get worn out and weak over the years, then you go to torque in the plug one day and for no apparent reason it strips... it was the dozens of times that plug has been tightened, just a tiny bit too much and stretched the threads just a tiny bit, eventually they give up and strip... stainless fasteners are fine, just make sure they don't rattle loose, because you don't get any of the normal corrosion that you do from regular bolts... so a light dab of blue threadlock can help stop them moving, and just do them up to the min. torque you can, as long as it's within spec.
Delboy's Garage thanks, I did like another video that you uploaded to rust proof and turn bolts black, that’s probably the way forward 😁
Hi Joel. To be on the safe side, Delboy is right. But if you need to know: I use stainless fasteners all the time for LOW-LOAD, NON-CRITICAL applications. Please bear in mind that the "stainless steel" commonly available for bolts is NOT AS STRONG as a medium grade steel bolt, e.g. 8.8 grade (ISO 898-1), therefore you cant really apply the manufacturers recommended torque setting to them without the risk of overloading them and snapping them off, especially if you have introduced a lubricant such as anti-seize compound. So if you arent tightening them up properly, the joint is not securely clamped according to the way it was designed and it can fail or shake free. In reality, there is always a bit of leeway in the strength of a bolt, so maybe they wont snap when your tightening them, but your getting into murky territory by using a material that wasnt considered in the original mechanical design. Going deeper into the stainless grades, the first thing to know is that there are literally hundreds of different grades of stainless steel. By far the most common for the nuts and bolts commonly available to us is 304 (18/8, or 18% Cr, 8% Ni) which, in the context of bolts is usually referred to as A2. There is also A4 grade, which is 316, which has more molybdenum added and makes it more corrosion resistant in salt water and maybe slightly stronger, this is usually sold as a "marine grade" fastener. These are available in different strength classes. The standard that covers the stainless bolting grades is BS EN ISO 3506-1.
you confused me right at the end when it seemed you were saying not to use thread lock in alloy threads, but up til that point i was thinking i better get some for things like the bar clamps and riser bolts as the last thing i want is to be wheelying a 200kg bike and the bars to come off the yokes in my hands, but the clamps that hold the bars to the risers are steel bolts into alloy risers and below that the same, steel bolts into the yokes, so what do you suggest, spring washers or just copper slip? cheers
Hi buddy, it is confusing, and am sorry that it isn't always clear, above all things, you don't want the bolts seizing in place if you wanna remove them in the future - I've never threadlocked handlebar clamps and they've always been fine... as you've got steel in to alloy, the very best product to use would be a graphite anti-seize compound, as long term, and in the presence of salt, copperslip can promote galvanic corrosion, so the grey graphite anti-seize is better... but above all, remember if you threadlock them in with the correct BLUE threadlock, then they will never come out till you intend them to, and they wont' corrode either, as the threadlock acts as a barrier, so either way, it works... I know it's confusing, and again am sorry about that, but there is always an element of common sense attached to these things... and glad to hear you wheelie your bike, stunts rock !
thanks for the clarification, only discovered you this week and subscribed after the first vid', with tips like pinning the chain to free off the front sprocket, never thought of that in 30 years of owning, fixing, building and thrashing bikes, i always used brake or something to block the wheel against the swing arm like a handy pick axe handle or table leg (always seem to have one or the other about ;-) brilliant tutorials, and am no great stunter, but at 51 riding a bike still brings out the hooligan in me even when i was just thinking i'd calmed down!
i heard copper grease isnt good for steel to ally joints as it causes galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals and corrodes quicker than it would otherwise, i suggest another grease like graphite
Very informative Sir, thankyou, and merry Christmas to you and Penny!
+jeff brown Thanks Jeff, Have a great holidays yourself mate, all the best, D&P.
Hay hi, thanks for answering so quick ,and detailed, but i think i must have explained it wrong, my problem is. Which i need help, to some how rethread or keep a nut on, with somthing, thread lock, this coil thing im not sure, hence seeking help from your self. The threads on my crankshaft plus the thread on the nut, are buggered.lol i thought ov dieing the thread, on the crankshaft. And then may be some ov this stuff your explaining, to strengthen the crankshaft and bolt. But im not sure,whaich stuff, becouse ov the heat that will come, plus the tourch ov the nut.! Please help.?lol sorry
Hi again Matthew, understand what you're saying ... it will be almost impossible to simply use threadlock compound to hold together a damaged thread... it will always come loose... so it's important to repair the thread first, you can put a helicoil in the end of the crank shaft hole and you don't need threadlock, it will stay in there just fine by itself... and then when you add the bolt, you can fit threadlock to the bolt itself, which is heat resistant and will be fine... but if the thread on that bolt is damaged, then you will need to buy a new bolt!... so a new bolt in to a helicoil in the crank is what you need to do.. can you get this bolt?? Is it something that's available where you are??
is it a good idea to to put copper slik on your barke pistons to stop it from binding
+5foot7 honda Hi mate, you smear it on the back of brake pad itself, not on the pistons.... and no thicker than butter on a biscuit!