Hello again Jason, The planking is a real art, isn't it. I've seen a few others plank where the gaps were huge. You really did get them nice and tight. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff
Hello Jason. I have built several Vanguard Model kits and they are all excellent kits in my opinion. Whilst waiting for the release of the latest Vanguard kit (Harpy) I will be starting work on the Sherbourne as a short term stopgap project. I have not tried the method of steam bending and twisting your have shown so I am keen to experiment with it. Many thanks for your tutorials which are well presented. I am looking forward to your next Sherbourne video. Glenn
I love these sailing ship models! You add such interesting commentary to these videos as well which end up being part model guide, part history lesson. I'm building the Amati Fly kit but have put off working on it for an embarrassingly long time. Do you have any tips to make the initial hull planks that fit onto the frames any more malleable? I'm having trouble fitting the planks that bend sharply inwards towards the counter at the stern. Thank you!
If you go to my home page you can see my build of HMS Fly, like you the build is paused. I guess you are refering to the second planking in hard wood, yes I talk about how i bend them in those videos, cannot recall which videos however sorry. maybe watch them in revers order
A stealer plank is indeed the way the shipwrights filled in wedge shaped gaps on real ships, but they weren't shaped as simple wedges. They followed specific rules and were squared off on the ends, whilst notched to a step somewhere in the middle and angled along the length.
Basically, what i mean to say is that you would never have a plank that comes to a sharp point on either end due to the notion that you can't fasten the point to the bulkhead. Because of this, you may have to notch the plank above and/or below in order to make a square shaped hole to fill with a stealer that, in turn, would have squared off ends.
Hi Jason, excellent tutorial, quite fascinating, planking looks really good, looking forward for next part. Have a great day, Dom
Hello again Jason, The planking is a real art, isn't it. I've seen a few others plank where the gaps were huge. You really did get them nice and tight. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff
Fantastic tutorial! 'm eagerly awaiting the next video.
Thanks Jason! Very informative!!!
Great tutorials, keep em coming
excellent video. For some reason the smaller the ship the more difficult I find planking it.
I agree
Hello Jason. I have built several Vanguard Model kits and they are all excellent kits in my opinion. Whilst waiting for the release of the latest Vanguard kit (Harpy) I will be starting work on the Sherbourne as a short term stopgap project. I have not tried the method of steam bending and twisting your have shown so I am keen to experiment with it. Many thanks for your tutorials which are well presented. I am looking forward to your next Sherbourne video. Glenn
Thanks Glenn, Hoping to review Harpy soon
I love these sailing ship models! You add such interesting commentary to these videos as well which end up being part model guide, part history lesson.
I'm building the Amati Fly kit but have put off working on it for an embarrassingly long time. Do you have any tips to make the initial hull planks that fit onto the frames any more malleable? I'm having trouble fitting the planks that bend sharply inwards towards the counter at the stern. Thank you!
If you go to my home page you can see my build of HMS Fly, like you the build is paused. I guess you are refering to the second planking in hard wood, yes I talk about how i bend them in those videos, cannot recall which videos however sorry. maybe watch them in revers order
@@ModelkitStuff Thank you! I'll do my best 😆
A stealer plank is indeed the way the shipwrights filled in wedge shaped gaps on real ships, but they weren't shaped as simple wedges. They followed specific rules and were squared off on the ends, whilst notched to a step somewhere in the middle and angled along the length.
@@BrianPelkey-r8c correct
Basically, what i mean to say is that you would never have a plank that comes to a sharp point on either end due to the notion that you can't fasten the point to the bulkhead. Because of this, you may have to notch the plank above and/or below in order to make a square shaped hole to fill with a stealer that, in turn, would have squared off ends.
@@BrianPelkey-r8c yep you have got it correct
Are you using Alphatic Resin Glue or some other type of White Glue?
Aliphatic I prefer, but on this using up an old brand in places, could not tell you what as lable is off. I would stick with Aliphatic though