Been building model ships all my life (86). This is the best Tutorial I have seen. chamfering the edges is also very important. I have a rule. 1 plank a day. Also a link to the Planking fan Template would be nice for beginners. A excellent video. More please.
A well explained and detailed process of planking. Just back into the hobby after half a lifetime away and I found this is a great reference. Thank you for taking the time to both film it and explain it.
Planking has always been the most difficult part of model ship building. This is a great method I will try on my next project. Patience, patience, patience!
Laying out planks on a full size boat you mark out the planks on the center rib like you did but the width varies to wide under the turn of the bilge to narrow on the turn of the bilge. Now you have the number of planks. Now lay a baton from waterline in bow to the tuck in the stern, that is up the horn timber to the transom. This way no planks run out to a point on the horn timber. Now you can divide the bow and stern into the number you need. Those above the waterline need to be all the same width for looks. On the stern the garboard is at its widest so is limited by reason because it twists almost 90 deg by the time it reaches midship. Your boat should be about level with the waterline and the garboard will run out on the keel about 90% to the bow. The point of the plank is cut off in what is called a nib. The next plank then comes about to the forefoot, same nib. The distance up the deadwood is greater than that of the bow and a stealer is used there to add width. Never at the bow. The planks will always be narrower at the turn of the bilge and a pattern is taken for each plank that varies in width and has a bend cut into it to fit the shape of the boat. You put the sheer plank on and work down and the garboard and work up, alternating sides so as not to misshape the boat. The last plank is usually somewhere below the turn of the bilge so braces can be used to force it in (whisky plank). The old blunt bow ships either had the bow planks cut to shape from natural grown branches or were double diagonal planked. You are getting messed up with that straight flat board that I think is supposed to be your deck. Decks were not flat and they all had sheer and crown. You might want to check out the Loyd’s of London specks on planking for where the butts are allowed, width and number of fasteners along with whale planks and clamps. Hope this helps a little. And if you are going to plank it like a real boat then the plank is fastened at the bow and bent back to about midship and the stern is bent forward and they are trimmed where they meet. Never have a plank end where there is a tight bend or twist because if you spring a plank it will open right up and sink the boat. To understand the genius of how a carvel planked boat is built you need to consider that the planks are fore and aft, decks are fore and aft held together basically by triangles and designed so the whole thing can twist and work so as to be forgiving and stronger than a rigid hull that can be broken.
There is an excellent book, Plank on Frame Models by Harold Underhill which explains planking fully. You have solid bulkheads instead of frames but the planking would be the same. Proportional Dividers are far quicker for determining the width of planks at each frame or bulkhead.
just getting started in model building, I appreciate your attention to detail. I am curious about drop planks. Good idea. It occurrs to me, If 2 thin planks are greater than 5mm, going from 3 to 2 would work better?
Hi Michael, as far as im aware a drop plank only takes the place of two thinner planks, you will find most kits are supplied with 5mm timber for planking, I also think you may find anything bigger would look out of scale obviously dependant upon the scale of the model
Hi - Excellent video and highly appreciated! Quick question: the plank bender device (the 'heated stick with the yellow handle') you use at the end of the video, what is that actually called? And do you have a brand I can search for? I use a special plank bending plier for now, but I like your method better. Thanks!
Can I use the Plankbender/heater instead of the Iron? Also, what shape does the roundish piece of guidewood need? Is it not to important? Just round in general or do I need to make it for each plank individual?
Hi, the reason I use an iron is it helps to keep the plank flat when bending, there is nothing stopping you using the plank bender, but you may need to take a little more care, with regards the rounded guide so far I haven't needed to use a different shape or size as typically the bend is minimal
I have a hull constructed using the planking method which is approx. 1 meter in length. It literally is just the hull, no decking. I have had it for some 20 years and it came to me in the condition its in today, I have done nothing with it, is there any way of possibly identifying what it is ???
Hi Sue, do you just have the hull or do you have other parts?, if you would like to email me a picture, it may be possible to narrow it down to the type of ship, I can also put it on a video, maybe one of the viewers could identify it.
@@g-kip Hi I'm sorry for the delay in response, I am trying to get those pictures to you could you tell me the email address I should use ?? is it the @g-kip ?. Also sorry for the confusion but my name is Richard Sue is my wife's name
Planking is an art, do it how you will. I like your method.
Planking is definitely an art, unfortunately very little info available for newcomers. Thank You, hopefully it will be of use to someone.
Been building model ships all my life (86). This is the best Tutorial I have seen. chamfering the edges is also very important. I have a rule. 1 plank a day. Also a link to the Planking fan Template would be nice for beginners. A excellent video. More please.
@@plymouthrovadventures.646 Thank you for your kind words, its nice to know the video is useful.
Excellent! Thank you very much.
Thank you I'm glad it is useful
Well done, Grant! This lays it out clearly and should assist and guide beginners and pros alike.
Thanks, hopefully it will help someone.
Nicely done!!👍👍
Thank You
Nicely done Grant !!
Thanks Martin, how you keeping?
@@g-kip Doing fine actually, very busy. Don`t have much time to model.
A well explained and detailed process of planking. Just back into the hobby after half a lifetime away and I found this is a great reference.
Thank you for taking the time to both film it and explain it.
Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful, what are you building?
I like this method very much. Thank you for sharing with us. Soon I will do some scratch build "my first one" and definitely will use your method
Thanks Roman, your planking looks fine to me.
@@g-kip appreciate your kind words but my planking is not that technically accurate😉
Bellisimo meister, thanks 😊❤🎉😅😊
Thank you
Have a great build.
Thank you
Planking has always been the most difficult part of model ship building. This is a great method I will try on my next project. Patience, patience, patience!
Hi Kevin, Thanks I'm glad you have found the video useful
Laying out planks on a full size boat you mark out the planks on the center rib like you did but the width varies to wide under the turn of the bilge to narrow on the turn of the bilge. Now you have the number of planks. Now lay a baton from waterline in bow to the tuck in the stern, that is up the horn timber to the transom. This way no planks run out to a point on the horn timber. Now you can divide the bow and stern into the number you need. Those above the waterline need to be all the same width for looks. On the stern the garboard is at its widest so is limited by reason because it twists almost 90 deg by the time it reaches midship. Your boat should be about level with the waterline and the garboard will run out on the keel about 90% to the bow. The point of the plank is cut off in what is called a nib. The next plank then comes about to the forefoot, same nib. The distance up the deadwood is greater than that of the bow and a stealer is used there to add width. Never at the bow. The planks will always be narrower at the turn of the bilge and a pattern is taken for each plank that varies in width and has a bend cut into it to fit the shape of the boat. You put the sheer plank on and work down and the garboard and work up, alternating sides so as not to misshape the boat. The last plank is usually somewhere below the turn of the bilge so braces can be used to force it in (whisky plank). The old blunt bow ships either had the bow planks cut to shape from natural grown branches or were double diagonal planked. You are getting messed up with that straight flat board that I think is supposed to be your deck. Decks were not flat and they all had sheer and crown. You might want to check out the Loyd’s of London specks on planking for where the butts are allowed, width and number of fasteners along with whale planks and clamps. Hope this helps a little. And if you are going to plank it like a real boat then the plank is fastened at the bow and bent back to about midship and the stern is bent forward and they are trimmed where they meet. Never have a plank end where there is a tight bend or twist because if you spring a plank it will open right up and sink the boat. To understand the genius of how a carvel planked boat is built you need to consider that the planks are fore and aft, decks are fore and aft held together basically by triangles and designed so the whole thing can twist and work so as to be forgiving and stronger than a rigid hull that can be broken.
Hi thank you for such a detailed explanation, appreciated, I will try and put this into practice on my next build.
There is an excellent book, Plank on Frame Models by Harold Underhill which explains planking fully. You have solid bulkheads instead of frames but the planking would be the same. Proportional Dividers are far quicker for determining the width of planks at each frame or bulkhead.
Excellent demonstration of how to work out your planking Grant. I need all the help I can get ;)
Thanks Greg, how's Victory have you started?
@@g-kip yes I started a few days ago. Should have the first video out this week
just getting started in model building, I appreciate your attention to detail. I am curious about drop planks. Good idea. It occurrs to me, If 2 thin planks are greater than 5mm, going from 3 to 2 would work better?
Hi Michael, as far as im aware a drop plank only takes the place of two thinner planks, you will find most kits are supplied with 5mm timber for planking, I also think you may find anything bigger would look out of scale obviously dependant upon the scale of the model
Hi - Excellent video and highly appreciated! Quick question: the plank bender device (the 'heated stick with the yellow handle') you use at the end of the video, what is that actually called? And do you have a brand I can search for? I use a special plank bending plier for now, but I like your method better. Thanks!
Thank you, its a plank bender, amzn.to/46yHgP2 (links to the product)
Can I use the Plankbender/heater instead of the Iron?
Also, what shape does the roundish piece of guidewood need? Is it not to important? Just round in general or do I need to make it for each plank individual?
Hi, the reason I use an iron is it helps to keep the plank flat when bending, there is nothing stopping you using the plank bender, but you may need to take a little more care, with regards the rounded guide so far I haven't needed to use a different shape or size as typically the bend is minimal
I have a hull constructed using the planking method which is approx. 1 meter in length.
It literally is just the hull, no decking. I have had it for some 20 years and it came to me in the condition its in today, I have done nothing with it, is there any way of possibly identifying what it is ???
Hi Sue, do you just have the hull or do you have other parts?, if you would like to email me a picture, it may be possible to narrow it down to the type of ship, I can also put it on a video, maybe one of the viewers could identify it.
@@g-kip Hi I'm sorry for the delay in response, I am trying to get those pictures to you could you tell me the email address I should use ?? is it the @g-kip ?.
Also sorry for the confusion but my name is Richard Sue is my wife's name
Hi Richard, sorry I missed your reply, my email should be visable on the channel page (click more)
@@g-kip Thank you I will try and get them on.
Need to know how to make the bending jig
There is not much to it, I will include it in the next video.