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Hi. Anatomy of the ship is correct there is a lot of ventilator opening missing on the superstructure some are covers by the mk1 set some are not, I took the view your either scratch building all of them so they look the same or using what you can. The MK1 set has a lot of errors so be carful

Lovely to see 3D printing and laser cutting help your hobby. The price seems high, I hope it drops in time.

I assume that gap under the transom (13:47) is ok?

Hello Jason, I am detailing the fore super structure and your guidance is excellent, thank you. One question: having removed some of the kit mouldings some of which are replaced by Mk1 PE (J115etc) there are - according to the Anatomy of the Ship - several little square hatch-like openings above the portholes for which there do not appear to be PE replacements and I see you have left them off. Is the reference book wrong or have you just decided to omit them? Pip

It would be great to have a side by side build of the wooden and 3d printed boat for a finished comparison. Really enjoy the channel and you. Thanks

H Jason, this is a very nice touch, great addition. Have a great day, Dom

Smiled to myself regarding making ships boats. I'm struggling a bit with mine for the OcCre Endurance not helped by the materials supplied to do so.

wish I had these videos when i was new. my first Build was the HMS Sovereign Of The Seas. it was one of those where you got weekly parts the first 5 issues were extremely cheap. so you sign up for the subscription then the next 3 years of parts got really expensive. But I must say though a lot of the decorative parts were cast metal so the end product was worth it but dam it was expensive if you add it all up

Hey Jason, thanks for the video! very helpful. Quick question if I may. Did you fill and sand the the hull after the first planking? I can't seem to find the video you did that on, and it looks as if you did do it, or am I mistaken? Many thanks!

Hi Jason, can you give the size and specifics on the spring clamps? I think I need to increase my clamp size and variety stash as I get ready to start my Sherbourne. Thanks!

Hi Jason, interesting method using spreadsheet, very well organised and planned build. Thanks and have a great day, Dom

When doing your planking sheet you need to take off 1mm where the garboard plank sits under the keel rabbet, the only section where it does not is toward the stern where a twist is required. I have just completed by second planking on the Sherbourne and it was exactly 15 x 4mmW planks at the midships.

Jason, that's a very interesting method of calculating the plank widths. When I did my first one that is shown in the subscriber showcase photos I sent to you, I used tic strips and a proportional divider. I guess there are several ways to do it. I'll try your method next time.

Hi Jason, great video. I like your spreadsheet. I can see it takes a lot of patience to get the planking just right. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff

Planking should be done with planks in pairs, one port, and one starboard. Thats ensures that the planking is even on both sides, and that any drop planks or stealer planks are used, they are located symmetrically. Also, glue planks alternately on each side prevents the hull from twisting or warping, especially when installing first planking, much less so on final planking. Planking one side only introduced stresses from spanks which have springiness left in them tol the hull, if they were not all pre-shaped. This stress builds as you add more planks on that side, and may result in twisting the hull. A twisted hull cannot be corrected later, so it's best to avoid it by using proper planking technique.

Good to see different methods of planking. Like the idea of planking fan spreadsheet.

Excellent but, I’ll need to really study this whole technique thoroughly?

I recently picked up this kit at a very good price, and my reaction is much like yours. I'm an experienced modeler, but I've only recently been dipping into ships and thought this would be a good one to get a little more experience. I was a bit taken aback that the photoetch didn't include railings and helicopter deck nets, but some generic aftermarket sets have taken care of that. Nothing looks too difficult, and I'm looking forward to the build.

You put a computer generated voice over german translation in your video?! Please leave it next time, sounds awful! Cheers!

That sander is great! 👍

Hi Jason, it looks like a very useful tool, thanks for the review. Have a great day, Dom

Cheap isolating tooth brushes from the pound shops with a little bit of modification to the head to accept Velcro pads/sanding sheets works for me.

Hi Jason, This looks like a really handy little tool. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff

It’s a good bit of kit and I bought one a few months ago. Sanding is easy, however close monitoring is required as it is easy to get carried away and then need to deploy filler and yes, start sanding again! I would get more use of mine if I had a dedicated workbench, as it is I have it in a set of drawers, but grabbing a sanding stick from the jar is much quicker. Recommended? Yes, it’s not a replacement for sanding sticks and files, more an enhancement for some of the fiddly tasks.

Hi Jason…great videos. I really like the method you are using for tapering the individual planks. I am working on my first build, OcCre Polaris and DO not like the way they instruct me to apply the first planking. Every other plank you cut short and then fill in later with a tapered short plank. They also instruct to push the nails all the way in and file them off for the second planking. I have researched using a planking fan and measuring each bulkhead to calculate the taper of each plank. I was wondering what your opinion of that method is for the Polaris (I am not sure if you are familiar with that model)? Do you have any videos on how to use the Planking Fan? Thank you in advance! Frank J from Troy, NY…and Happy Christmas!

Dspiae - another company reinventing the wheel.

I have one of these and it’s great for what it is. I also have the rotary one where you insert rods into the head and they have different grit ratings that rotate at a high speed if needed. This unit though can take modelling drill bits, burrs. Tyrell models sell a Chuck that fits the rotary tool and allows full size power tool parts to be fitted drills burrs anything that fits a full size drill. There are also a set of 4 polishing pads and polishing creams, which make it even more versatile. I find both useful.

Please use a mask while scrubbing at 3D resin, Jason. 😮 Nasty stuff! 🤗

Great update Jason, looks like Christmas is busy enough for for the channel. I'll start planning for Telford 25, missed it this year so something to look forward to. Cheers!

I bought one of these. Nice tool but buyer beware. It doesn't have much grunt if using on wood, it comes to a stop with very little pressure.

I am thinking of buying this so will be interesting on the review

I don't think I've seen a matching pen drill from them - like the Wow Stick? That would make a good pair.

Thanks for that, Jason. Where's the best place to get one from?

Ooooh new tools. Thanks for showing us.

Thanks for the info Jason

“Back in my age,I fought in every battles in the napoleonic wars”ahh great great grandpa💀

Hi All, I order a Sherborne kit this week. I’m not sure when it will get here. I will plan on starting on kit build after the first of year. I should have all tools I will need by then.

Vanguard models are great and you’re right Jason.

When doing kit of the year maybe do plastic kit of the year and wooden kit of the year.

I recently watched that first video build series on the channel, the JU-52. I think that was easier painting than the JU F13 is going to be.

Hi Jason, great Table Talk! I really enjoy our social group. Your Christmas schedule looks so full, I will be off work so can enjoy quality content every day ;) But don't mind us, family always first! Thanks and have a great day, Dom

Another great table talk Jason

Hi Jason, Another great Table Talk. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff

Great video as always Jason. My copy of the Gecko Hovercraft arrived this week. Someone had a set of soldiers as ride ons either side of the hull. Perhaps a crew will follow. The Adder looks like a nice build. Those boards that go through the through the Hull are called Centre boards and lowering them enables the ship to sail closer to the wind or windward. With them raised the vessel is pushed sideways across the sea as well as forward, lowered that gets reduced and improves the ships ability to sail to windward. They can also be raised to allow the vessel into shallower waters than usual. They are raised and lowered through a slot known as a centreboard trunk. (I sailed and raced dinghies as a child). The group build sounds like a great idea, I hope I finish the other one I’m signed up for in the new year. I’m up for Telford 2025 curry and beer night, even if I sleep in my car. I’m looking forward to the reveal of the tool company. I’m sure it will be a benefit for the members.