Your explanation of how the exhaust an intake valves are timed affecting air flow was awesome. Theres truth in you statement you learn something new everyday. You got yourself a new subscriber.
You sir are absolutely 💯 % correct. People think removing it will make there truck sound louder and Removing it only changes the tone won't make your truck any louder. If you take it off you'll have the most annoying drone sound driving down the highway. No extra power removing it.
There's more to it than this, if this was the only technical reasoning (air air bouncing off valves), then the resonator would be on each branch of the inlet manifold and not before the throttle body. The resonator, or Helmholtz resonator, is atuned to a specific frequency (ie RPM), to remove specific undesirable noises from the intake system. The device may contain multiple chambers of different internal volumes, to act as multiple resonators. As an electronics engineer who spent 9 years in the audio industry, I can relate to this, on the electronics side they're like an RC filter network, they filter out specific resonant frequencies by storing and releasing energy at a rapid rate. On the speaker design side, the very same principles apply as to a car intake and exhaust system, every material and every assembly will have a frequency at which it will vibrate (resonance), the goal is to find that frequency and adjust that resonant frequency to beyond the hearing range (20hz to 20khz) so that it doesn't interfere with the audio quality. Take a 4 cylinder engine at 3k rpm, each piston is producing sound waves at a frequency of 50hz. If you play around with an online multuple tone generator and have some decent speakers on your PC, 20 to 50hz is actually physically uncomfortable at high decibels (it's that sound that churns up your insides), then when you add 3 more at 50hz you don't just get one sound, you get multples of the same frequency overlapping and creating harmonic frequencies, 50hz x 4, plus the harmonics, which can be pretty nasty, so your intake resonator is designed to suppress harmonic frequencies and reduce noise at 3000 rpm, to meet regulations for new vehicles. Why fitted? to meet international noise emission regulations for new vehicles, which is currently around 72db measured at 3k rpm. Should they be removed? Probably not Any advantage to removal? None, unless you like being an annoyance to others
Thanks for foreseeing 3 years ago that I would need information on air intake resonators today. You must be a wizard! Yesterday (10 NOV 2023), I was delivering food to my mother, traveling down a 2-lane country road at around 50 mph, when a deer leaped out into the highway and slammed into an oncoming SUV, the first in a line of about 6 oncoming vehicles that were about 200 ft from me traveling toward me at roughly the same speed that I was going. The deer slammed into the side of the SUV, and careened off of the side of the vehicle at a downward angle moving toward me. I was driving a 1999 Honda Accord LX with a 2.3 liter VTEC engine. The deer flew toward me at a forward and downward angle so that it came toward me and went underneath my vehicle's front passenger side tire before I could get stopped--before the SUV got to me. As I ran over the deer, its legs apparently hit the intake air resonator and the fender well liner. Both were torn from the vehicle and became lodged between the bottom of the passenger side of the car and the pavement. The resonator was broken into pieces and the fender well liner was wrapped around those pieces. How the deer's legs got into a position to do that particular type of damage I don't know. It was a miracle that running over the deer didn't throw me into the path of the other oncoming vehicles. I noticed a difference in the sound of the vehicle when accelerating and when going uphill, but I thought that the deer had maybe done some damage to the exhaust system as well. Amazingly, there was no other damage to my vehicle, and the SUV wasn't even dented. I can't say as much for the poor deer. (I still don't know why it leapt from a safe place on the side of the road into 50 mph oncoming traffic.) Your video told me what I needed to know about the resonator's purpose and the disadvantages of driving the car without the intake resonator. Thank you for the informative video 3 years after you posted it.
Your individual results may vary I myself was very expressed with my results but to each his own if you don't try you won't ever know peace and much respect to all Jason again if you don't like the results put it back to stock
Every time i research intake resonators, i can never get an accurate answer to whether it hurts performance or not. The answers given by science nerds such as the one in this video make no sense. They say "the resonator has no interference with airflow whatsoever" then why the fuck does removing it hurt performance, if it truly doesnt interfere with airflow? Why do aftermarket cold air intakes, which don't have resonators, increase HP contrary to what the nerds are saying? Why do the legendary CT Engineering Ice Box intakes increase hp even though they are direct copies of stock intakes with a few modifications, one of which is removal of the resonator? And even if removing the resonator on a stock intake hurts hp, I'm sure it's negligible. And im even more sure that a tune would fix any loss immediately and give gains. I digress.
Excellent explanation! In the plumbing world it is called the water hammer effect. If a water line is closed too fast it will cause a water hammer bang on the valve face. The resonator works very similar to the arrestor in the way it absorbs pressure waves.
Thank you so much for this video. I've been having this droning noise from my engine. And my mechanic hasn't been able to diagnose it. But I only remember hearing this noise since I removed the resonator because bit was loose. I get terrible fuel economy and everyone is always asking me why my car makes that weird sound.
Should we wait for the dyno pulls to back up the no increased horsepower statement? Edited to add that torque increases can be a benefit, too, and while HP gains could be in a non-useful area of the curve, TQ would be useful.
I've had both my resonators deletes on my car. Haven't had no issues. Had better, and smoother throttle. A res delete is perfect for a turbo charged engine, not to mention less weight without a resonator. Only liberals and politically correct people will be against it.
Great and clear explanation. I was looking for that info since I accidentally noticed that resonator was broken heavily (50% of box is missing) in my CX7 that I just bought. Engine is quite noisy, new part ordered, and thank to you I know now how important it is. I hope this will make it quiet back again. Thank you. Regards from Poland!
Yeah I talked to a GM engineer about my Duramax, he said they are useless. I took mine off. My turbo did spool faster and did have a more distinct turbo sound. It’s not substantial, but it’s there. No there is no power increase, that I can feel, just some sound difference. Cleans up the engine bay as well. Do what you want, but it want hurt your truck’s performance what so ever. Banks even makes a delete for the L5P. Banks it’s all about performance, if it hurt it they wouldn’t make it. Just my 2 cents.
Oh My God This is one of the videos that I can imagine every flows/ details thats been happening inside the air intake and out to the exhaust system. I have been searching for years for the functions of the intake resonator (which a lot of people fail to clearly make me understand it) plus, you did it without using images and animations, the way you put the fact and flows of what happening inside the engines pop up in my mind. I say congratulatulations. this is a big help in understanding how "misterious" part of engines works.
This is so specific to the application. A CIA and quality exhaust with a tune can be great but he's not wrong that some times the factory setup is better. It's not so black and white.
Makes sense…my stock air box has both resonators on the actual intake tube and air duct from the bumper…Pretty much all after market intakes for my stang eliminate these for some reason.
A bit more detail: Resonance implies oscillation/vibration. Intake resonators are designed so that pressure waves created from closed intake valves travelling out the intake tract get "stored" and are reflected back into the engine, arriving just as the valves re-open (within a specific, narrow RPM range). This packs more fresh air into the cylinders than would otherwise be possible (mild supercharging effect). The intake of a modern engine is literally tuned like a musical instrument so that the effect occurs near an RPM most beneficial for that engine. The sound you get by blowing air across the top of an empty bottle is a good demonstration of the concept.
@@glowiever You must have good ears to be able to notice a motorcycle airbox resonating at peak power above all the other noises going on. As long as it was just a "hum" I wouldn't think much of it.
@@supermarioisacat my motorcycle setup was optimized to reduce noise as much as possible. I love silent motorcycle. other than spraying injector sound and valves being tapped, my motorcycle is pretty silent and healthy. I could hear the loud humming sound, exactly like someone blowing over a bottle head, except it's deeper (had more bass), kinda freaked me out when I was riding fast thru the dark, rural road lol. it had a certain ghastly "boo"-ing sound to it. but it only happen in certain narrow range rpm, around 6000-7000 rpm-ish I guess. It also felt like the bike had extra "push" when that happens, so I'm happy.
@@glowiever Yeah, that pretty much describes it perfectly. As the engine reaches it's optimal RPM there can be a noticeable "surge" of power similar to, but nowhere near as strong as, a tuned two-stroke "getting on the pipe."
Thank you very much, I have the same car as you and I was thinking precisely about that, if by removing it I would gain power and sound due to having better air flow, now I know that it is not worth it and I will save myself the loss of time and effort, thank you very much!
My Nissan Rogue Sport has 2 intake resonators; the pre-intake resonator that is at the top of the battery, and the after intake resonator that is at the top of the engine valve cover or spark plug. I ran a test on Highway 223 from Adobe intersection to the roundabout and back, a total of 10 miles, with and without the pre-intake resonator. I accelerated gently until 55mph and stayed there, then deactivated cruise control on the flashing yellow signs until the roundabout, then 25 mph hard U-turn, then gently accelerated to 55mph on the way back until my starting point, let it idle for 30s before turning off. Then starting again after 5mins and repeat the same process. I got 34.8MPG w/ the pre-intake resonator, and 35MPG without it.
So I hear a lot of conflicting opinions on this with no scientific proof; I’d love to see a video of an intake system with a vacuum gauge showing the difference in resistance. As shown with your intake a pass through resonator system but with vehicles like mine that has a snake through resonator system. I would like to see the differences.
I was a project engineer at Magna, If you are hearing conflicting opinions about the resonator function by multiple automotive engineers then they are not qualified to understand the design intent. This gentlemen as described is fundamentally correct. A common car part serves a purpose all tied to efficiency improvement
I have a 2006 s2000 and have literally done every combo of pipe sizing, mufflers, exhaust resonators, cats, and the perfect setup I found was cat delete asap. I have a 3”single pipe coming off my collector and it leads into a resonator that’s right under my passenger seat to kinda keep cabin noise less drony. Then it goes straight out to a 4” tip no muffler. Sound wise it’s loud but not obnoxious and it’s given me the most power of all the setups
No i think he means that the resonator delete that we noobs are refering to (well these days anyway) is the large rectangular/3d oval-shaped chamber under the car just before the muffler at the end i.e. the resonator dealing with the gases leaving the engine. This is my first time hearing about an intake resonator under the hood, which i assume is a separate resonator dealing with incoming air as opposed to exiting air. Or are they the same thing? Correct me if im wrong. @@CliffsGarage
Wery good video about the subject. Thats why some tuners measure the lenght from intake to filter to match certain rpm, for many automotive makers noice canceling and emission/economy controll are more important than absolute peak power so resonator boxes are more matched to those recruiments.
The numero uno reason to remove the resonator intake...it gives you greater access to other engine parts!!! It's always in the way covering everything. I find it easier and better to just delete the resonator.
Awesome video 👊😁 If you want to learn this with more clarity learn about high performance 2-stroke exhaust.. It's quite complicated because those pressure waves are not 'air pressure' it's 'sound wave pressure' that pushes backwards... Confused 🤣 good !!!
I understand this argument and it maybe true for turbo applications giving a larger volume of air for spool up. But the main reason they did this from the factory was so they didn't have customers coming into the dealerships complaining about engine noise. Like some comments aftermarket intakes do not this resonator; and most aftermarket intakes are not true cold air intakes. These are both true. The factory intake on most vehicles are already cold air intakes. The resonator takes up air volume and in turn noise because it is canceling the intake pulses with volume. But that resonator is also inside the engine bay being heat soaked. That volume of air inside is also heat soaked. When the engine calls for full throttle (your foot) it is pulling that heat soaked air into the engine as well as the colder air from the air box. The air inside the resonator is already at a lower pressure because it has already passed through the air filter (restriction) so it becomes the first air to enter the engine. Exhaust pulses are true and very important after combustion; especially on 2 stroke engines with wild expansion pipes to help/need scavenging. In a 4 stroke a resonator will cancel out exhaust pulses (tuned to correct length) and reduce drone and in turn sound and not effect exhaust flow much. That pressure pulse from an intake valve closing will bounce to the next cylinder on the next cylinder on the intake stroke. The resonator is just soaking up this pressure wave with volume. No race car/ performance car or truck is designed with an intake resonator. I'm not trying to argue with you sir just trying to give a different point of view.
Thanks for this video. I've known about this but wanted confirmation. I have a MK3 Focus and a common mod is putting on a partially open air box lid. But on the NA Focus the resonator actually makes really ugly harmonics through the rev range. So I just block it off with a pill bottle cap (since the open lid nullifies the resonator anyway). The only disadvantage is that it lost torque between 1250 and 1500 RPM. But oddly enough it didn't affect fuel economy at all. Just very low RPM performance. So I decided the sound was worth the torque. Running E85 actually had a more significant effect on performance for me.
Manufacturers willingly sacrifice mid-upper (thus, peak) power for increased low-mid torque all the time for improved 'driveability' to the average driver who doesn't care. In a lot of cases there's a big loss in peak power for a relatively small gain in torque (especially on recent-ish engines with very high flow potential, variable timing, etc.), though it's often the manifold runner design that does this and changing the intake can't change a whole lot beyond induction noise. In an NA engine, you basically have to choose between low-mid and high-rpm power unless you use dual-port variable manifolds (like Ford used in the 90s and 2000s, with others) that basically negate the problem. So, yeah I'm not surprised at your results and the Mk 2/3 Focus i4s are great engines that were known for good low-end and decent power which makes me suspect it's less in the manifold and more in the intake/exhaust design. Great cars with the Manual
So not only are you getting under hood heat sucked in, you're now also fighting the "reverb" airflow when you swap to a aftermarket Cold Air kit... Makes me feel even better for spending the $60 on just a drop in filter and keeping my OEM intake system lol Thanks!
Not true, a correct cold air intake increased my horsepower of my Acura TL by 6 horsepower. The trick was getting wider intake pipes, positioning the intake by the original airflow inlet on the bumper, and just overall making sure air is flowing from outside by getting measurements and cutting pipes correctly. Also you can add heat tape near the throttle body part of intake to moderately decrease the heat of pipes
Granted it was only 6 horsepower on the dyno, but it was hotter that day so it might be more. Also it might not be worth it. I spent 120$ total. However both low end and high end increased and throttle response. So if you’re willing to put in time, it can work
@@maxparker5199 Youre talking about a custom DIY setup and its awesome to know you put the time/effort into doing it, rather than off the self parts.. I was talking about the $500-900 off the self kits, with open cone filters with some "shields and rubber gaskets to seal to the hood" Anyways... Currently in process of 3D printing the finished parts now in high temp ASA. The OEM intake horn/snout that bends to a 70 degree bend to the inner fender BUT with the fender inner liner it has no real fresh cool air to draw from. Pulled it out and cut it right at the flange to mount into the air box, so I still have the OEM seal to the box. Route it forward through the 4" gap between the radiator and the Rad support. Kind of how the Hellcat head light intake port is. Printed it with a minor smooth bed to avoid any water dirt etc and added a hexagon screen design to the flared for extra protection. My intake temp was 120-135 (under hood pulling from the fender) I'll have to see what it is once it's finished. Like yours, Day A temperatures vs Day G can skew a result +/- oneies and twoies in some cases.
If the intake resonator is pre air box, would sound reduction be the only effect? It seems like the air box it self would dissipate the pressure waves.
this is really interesting. I used to have a Chevy cavalier that I did an exhaust and intake on, and it sounded absolutely terrible. the engine sounded good overall, but there was this horrid rasp, after tons of research Im very sure it was a resonance/frequency issue, I even had a resonator installed to help, didnt quite work. but it also had a K&N short ram intake on it, and after watching this video, Id be willing to bet the intake resonance vs the exhaust was making it sound weird.. on that note, I also had another theory, I live in CO, so we have reduced power, but also the piping wad 2.5" on a low power car.. and there was a theory that the exhaust gas was slowing down and also causing a weird noise
My 04 durango has a resonator duct that goes over the top of the engine and it's only purpose is noise control and it increases intake temperature so it's gonna go the resonator in front of the throttle body can stay cause it's not heating air or at least not very much
my honda civic basically has a cold air exhaust stock because it goes directly to the front grill and it’s sealed off but it’s got 2 extra tubes that go in a loop in the bottom to act as a resonator. so if I block that off i’ll get a nice intake whine when accelerating so i think im just gonna do it.
My 1997 Acura CL 2.2 VTEC f22b1 has both a plastic intake resonator & a butterfly box style helmholz resonator. I have an open downpipe which feels and sound great... But I decided to keep the stock cold air intake system, and just add a K&N drop in filter.
I have a manual 2013 ford focus se and I removed it, the only difference it made was that I could hear the intake sound (which I like). I think it depends on the vehicle, the resonator on mine is very small so I doubt it does much.
The air intake resonator has an element or filter in it 6 Gen camaro. I'm replacing mine- sick of the throbbing sound coming from the fire wall, that pancake looking thing on the end of the flex hose can get blocked I heard
What I'm wondering is how much does a resonator actually help in dissipating the back pressure. Or can a straight cold air intake shove more air into the engine to compensate any back pressure or turbulence loss. I mean just look at a supercharger
it depends your pipe lenght and how well it matches whit intake wave lenght on certain rpm, effect is called dymanic chargin or hemholts resonace charcingn its used in intake tuning but can be used to for smaller effect on the pipe from intake to filter aswell.
Now I'm confused. I have a 09 base corvette. They come with a resonator, but the Z06 does not. I replaced mine with a Z06 resonator for an increase in sound. I didn't notice any lose of power.
Removed mine to open up more space in the engine bay. Makes doing coolant flushes easier, and other things. Im pretty sure it does absolutely nothing in my car. 2019 civic coupe ex turbo.
Bad fuel pump = Broken Resonator?? Backfire Versus Resonator = Broken Resonator 2004 chevy express van 3500 6.0 8/16/22 was having trouble starting the engine and would have to push the accelerator to the floor to start sometimes, one day it would start no longer. was acting like had no fuel, tested with starter fluid and it ran as long as i could spray it in. however on 2nd attempt at starting with starter fluid i pushed the accelerator to the floor and it backfired, replaced the fuel pump, and still had trouble starting and running bad, sent to mechanic said resonator was broken and was bypassing mass air flow sensor and it couldn't read properly. what is a resonator and here i am learning more about it, it was blown up a big piece was missing and its under the airflow large diameter pipe or box easy to miss and never notice The way its made is clearly a brittle material and it has large seams almost like its made to break it blew apart at the seams and it blew out a large area and pieces of it. maybe the years of shock waves weakened it. Coincidence it stopped right behind the mechanic's shop and i asked them how were they going to get it to the shop. he said we use starting fluid. so 1 man must be walking outside with hood up and 1 driving to the shop stall. be careful with starter fluid cost me 130. diagnostic 20. of epoxy for temp use and i quess i need to order one for 65. 9. uber ride starter fluid backfire cost me 214.00 so far and lots of time, but i am thankful for mechanics diagnostic of and learning about this resonator. this is my first time using starter fluid just thankful it didnt blow up my intake manifold which is also polymer material. 1 backfire is all it takes to blow it up. thinkin bout just put 1.5 inch 90 pvc elbow and a 12 inch pc capped seems about the same size and it doesn't have seams it would never break or blow up again.
And what if resonator chamber is on the very beginning of intake before air filter? You can find that in Honda K24 engine for example. Can you explain?
My Hyundai Getz has this same configuration, resonator box is located before air filter. In this video it's located after air filter. So my common sense tells me the Getz resonator box is removable and any returning pressure from motor should be dampened in the air filter, and also there is a carburetor in the way to tackle returning pressure. I would still like to hear more thoughts about this issue from more experienced people though.
A few aftermarket intake manufacturers are starting to “tune” resonators into their kits. AFE, Banks and Morimoto to state a few. Morimoto has even stated that intakes they made without resonators made less power than stock “Jeep JL 3.6 testing”. Very interesting and real engineering!
Sir, let me first thank you for confirming what my beliefs are. I'll start by saying this, I purchased a Roush cold air intake for my 21' Mustang GT. Once I pulled all the parts out, I immediately noticed a large port was missing off the 90deg piece coming from the intake. I questioned the seller, and he referred me to some literature that instructed me to delete the resonator to install this CAK. I immediately thought this guy was insane. I always believe that engineers go to school for many years for their degrees, they are much smarter about the card they designed than most "mechanics" are even in so-called performance shops. I will not delete any part designed to achieve the highest level of performance from the factory. They know what works. MY QUESTION TO YOU (I hope you get this). There is a spot on the new 90deg elbow that I could easily drill and add the resonator tube to the new part. In your opinion, will this operate the same? Or should I stick with stock? The only real reason I want the CAK is for the look of it. It has a see through window to see the filter.
I'd say it's highly unlikely that adding the resonator in that position would work as intended. As you say, it was engineered specifically for that car in the stock position.
@Cliff's Garage That's what I was thinking too. Thank you for taking time to respond. I loved your video. You obviously know what your talking about. It's being sent back. Keep up the good work and spread the word. Cold air intakes should not be deleted.
No prep cars do not have resonators and their hp is not affected, obviously. Resonators affect only throttle response. However, in high rpm, in high performance engines with tunable or aftermarket ECU’s, you want a higher compressed intake/intake charge that the ECU can use to increase air/fuel ratio, This is why race motors, N/A or forced induction ones, do not use intake resonators
First car 1957 British consul from my Dad that i started to learn on, second car that i bought for $50 1955 Plymouth fury v8, FIRST MOD..........Thrush woody woodpecker muffler ! : > ) Thank you !
on some engines it most definatly makes the engine more powerful. for the most part if your car uses one of those shitty electronic throttle bodies and is a 4 cylinder it wont help for the most part. on my sisters pentastar 3.6 liter the delete made the car more peppy. now. if you want to remove your intake silencer and you find that it hurt your performance you might actually be able to turn that into a gain by reducing diamater of intake. which may sound counter intuitive but no. not in this case. in this case it should correct the exhaust scavenging while providing the same amount of airflow to the engine. well even if this does work wheres the benefit? the benefit is 1. sound 2. faster response. the lower diamater intake tube will deliver air Faster into the engine and should undoubfuly give it some more pepp. in this case the lower diamater intake tube should not cause any loss (it should be as little of a difference as possible.) thanks to the removal of the very restrictive intake resonator. also in alot of 4 cylinders reducing exhaust diamater while eliminating as much restriction not related to diamater as possible will give you better acceleration, not because of backpressure, backpressure is never good. but because most 4 cylinder OEM exhaust systems (especially naturally aspirated OEM systems) are designed very badly with low resonation, which i think actually be why many cars need the intake resonator is to make up for its shitty ineeficient exhaust system. resonators most DEFINATLY CAUSE A RESTRICTION its just in the case this guy is talking about it isnt because its responsible for the exhaust resonation due to a shitty exhaust system. srry for bad grammar and spelling but youtube comments lag for me very bad i think because of the ai censors tryina stop me from spreading their definition of hate. and really i must say that exhaust systems are poorly designed on purpose because it makes it harder for the sensors to detect the correct concentration of gasses in the combusted gas mixture harder. in my montee carlo 3.4l MODDED ITS STRONG it had a u bend right before the first o2 sensor when i got rid of that i noticed a positive difference in power. its sad because it makes emissions worse. cars emissions do not cause climate change, evil people that control the weather through science do its no secret. but emissions are still bad pollution. also i have a highflow catalytic converter on my build, and i notice no difference in power with it on or off. they really dont cause restriction at all on most none boosted engines.
I really appreciate the informative breakdown of it all. But the question arises. If this is true as I believe it to be, why do all aftermarket intake systems not incorporate something like this? Additionally does having a turbo charged 4 cylinder made the need for the resonator greater or less?
Most people want aftermarket because of lower weight and or reduced clutter/complexity. But unfortunately, many "intakes" draw hot air from behind the radiator, near a catalytic or from some other non-optimal location, offsetting any potential advantage. Many of those who remove their OEM intake regret it when they notice flat spots, loss of mid-range torque and possibly a general loss of power. For forced induction (turbo/super charging) many systems are required to have a resonator on the compressor inlet, but for an entirely different purpose: to help muffle it's shrill whine/whistle.
Great video, I wonder if that's the case for the resonator box directly under my air filter box tho? I mean couldn't the air just travel that short distance back to the outside?
And what if resonator chamber is on the very beginning of intake before air filter? You can find that in Honda K24 engine for example. Can you explain? Very good video BTW.
Hey cliff, now we know that the main reason the intake resonator helps disipate the pressure compressions coming back from the valves, why are resonators on turbo cars? The resonator should never see the pulses from the valves, but only from the turbo. Could you talk on that please?
I been getting 22 mpg from my 2015 mustang v6 and after removing the resonator and got H pip installed where the resonator was now I'm getting 18 mpg plus the car is extremely loud Yes I wanted to be loud but that's a lot and the drone will drive me crazy, I'll putting it back
Well, the thing is that you _didn't_ just delete the resonator. You changed a major part of the intake system. It's quite likely that if you had left the resonator, you would have gained even more.
Great video. I'm curious about pre airbox resonators, such as the type in my 2012 honda accord ex v6. Some people delete it but at the cost of the cooler air that this part provides. I don't see it as being very restrictive, in fact, I would argue it is pulling air from the ideal location. Up high behind the grill but offset so not directly open to bugs or other debris. Also there are two slots built into the initial intake which allow water and heavier debris to pass through these points instead of being drawn through to the air filter. Modern engines are designed to be optimized as a complete system. If you change one thing it can affect nearly everything else. The computers are the unsung heroes of automobiles if you ask me. I'm amazed that some of these crazy new engines work at all. Kind of neat to follow the evolution in engineering since cars were invented.
I purchased a cat-back system from MBRP for my 08 ram 1500 5.7 hemi, it did not include a resonator. It was too loud at highway speeds, or rpm over 2000. I also was not a fan of the muffler sound at low RPM I just switched the muffler to a Flowmaster 50 Series HD, and it still drones at higher RPM, but with a better sound at low RPM I am about to install a re-install resonator, probably Flowmaster. Cant do stock, as I am now a dual exhaust system, was not a factory option in 08
So can i ADD an intake resonator? Currently running a Jeep XJ with a '92 I6 4.0HO engine. I'm using the K&N cold-air intake, it looks like it kinda has a ballooned res over the TB, where the air collects before entering the manifold. I guess my Q is, can i just jerry something like a pvc tube to another small compartment in hopes that it becomes a resonator or would that potentially mess up my intake process?
My air intakes under my hood, i want to drill hole infront of hood and pipe it directly to the intake and it be forcing more air and colder air but not sure if i should and if i do, take of stock muffler so it can exscape faster... i just dont know
I would say it's unlikely to improve anything. Such a change would only affect the boundary layer flow, i.e. the area next to the piping. Engineers would have accounted for boundary layer flow reduction and made sure the center flow is sufficient for the engine's needs. In other words, yes it would increase the potential flow but have no practical effect because the existing flow is enough.
Great video. Liked and subscribed. I know some people are deleting the resonator simply cause they want it to sound louder. On the other hand, I’m on team “How can we make this car quieter”😂
First time i def messed up and theew out these two plastic tubes of you buy the cold air intakes there rubber tubes that kead to it i think to get cold air into the head. But they had to use platic tubes to connect everything eith the takaeda cold aur intake. Im worried can oil get up in my intake on my g37? I would email u a picture abd may e you can met me kniw uf im ok or not.
My stock snorkel has a molded resonator attached to itself and this fits to the air box (2006 focus) so I ask myself do I suck my air from my wheel arch or deal with back pressure in the intake
I been getting 22 mpg from my 2015 mustang v6 and after removing the resonator and got H pip installed where the resonator was now I'm getting 18 mpg plus the car is extremely loud Yes I wanted to be loud but that's a lot and the dron will drive me crazy
I had a 2012 V6 Mustang and did a lot of mods, you have something wrong with that big of an RPM drop from an alleged resonator delete. Are you talking about the H/X pipe that deletes the Cats? If not, and I don't know the 15+ chassis, you probably have either a big exhaust leak from a bad install or, less plausibly, the tubing is just SO oversized that it completely killed your low-rpm/low-throttle power which is definitely an issue with some exhausts. My 3.7 had the Dynomax catback with I think 2.25 tubing and BBK short headers which didn't hurt my MPG and low-end much, but long-tubes headers especially with oversized exhausts were known for losing a ton of low-mid torque. You should probably have engine codes with that big of a difference
Hey there what's up. I have a 2015 toyota corolla base model 4 speed automatic. I always change the muffler no matter what car or truck I have. I have a different trend flow 2 muffler which is a basically a clone of the bi-directional magnaflow oval muffler 2.25 offset 2.25 inlet offset outlet. I was thinking about removing the old resonator and replacing the resonator with one from different trends or from vibrant. What should I do I'm 37 replaced the loud muffler that was on the car with different trend muffler/clone magnaflow oval muffler and it sounds just a hair about stock muffler sound which is good. Do you think I should just leave the stock resonator on there or replace the resonator with a stainless steel resonator from different trends or vibrant exhaust? What are your options?
I have and old 7.3 IDI in the air cleaner it has a Helmholtz resonator known as the Soup Bowl…..A lot of guys cut them off… I tell them that it is detrimental to the engine and they don’t believe me… Would I be correct?
I have a 2007 H3 here lately a few times when I start the engine, it shakes and sounds horrible and every light on the dash comes on traction , low power u name it every light. I turn off and on let it sit and a few times later it all good. Can u guide me where to start first with fixing.
Sounds like a bad ground strap or other big power connection. Nothing else is gonna cause multiple independent systems to fail at once and this is also common on GMs with underbody rust/rot.
This really just applies for intake resonator right? Not the resonator that is connected to the exhaust because now I’m worried that I made a mistake taking mine off. 😅
Your explanation of how the exhaust an intake valves are timed affecting air flow was awesome. Theres truth in you statement you learn something new everyday. You got yourself a new subscriber.
You sir are absolutely 💯 % correct. People think removing it will make there truck sound louder and Removing it only changes the tone won't make your truck any louder. If you take it off you'll have the most annoying drone sound driving down the highway. No extra power removing it.
There's more to it than this, if this was the only technical reasoning (air air bouncing off valves), then the resonator would be on each branch of the inlet manifold and not before the throttle body.
The resonator, or Helmholtz resonator, is atuned to a specific frequency (ie RPM), to remove specific undesirable noises from the intake system. The device may contain multiple chambers of different internal volumes, to act as multiple resonators.
As an electronics engineer who spent 9 years in the audio industry, I can relate to this, on the electronics side they're like an RC filter network, they filter out specific resonant frequencies by storing and releasing energy at a rapid rate. On the speaker design side, the very same principles apply as to a car intake and exhaust system, every material and every assembly will have a frequency at which it will vibrate (resonance), the goal is to find that frequency and adjust that resonant frequency to beyond the hearing range (20hz to 20khz) so that it doesn't interfere with the audio quality.
Take a 4 cylinder engine at 3k rpm, each piston is producing sound waves at a frequency of 50hz. If you play around with an online multuple tone generator and have some decent speakers on your PC, 20 to 50hz is actually physically uncomfortable at high decibels (it's that sound that churns up your insides), then when you add 3 more at 50hz you don't just get one sound, you get multples of the same frequency overlapping and creating harmonic frequencies, 50hz x 4, plus the harmonics, which can be pretty nasty, so your intake resonator is designed to suppress harmonic frequencies and reduce noise at 3000 rpm, to meet regulations for new vehicles.
Why fitted? to meet international noise emission regulations for new vehicles, which is currently around 72db measured at 3k rpm.
Should they be removed? Probably not
Any advantage to removal? None, unless you like being an annoyance to others
Thanks for foreseeing 3 years ago that I would need information on air intake resonators today. You must be a wizard!
Yesterday (10 NOV 2023), I was delivering food to my mother, traveling down a 2-lane country road at around 50 mph, when a deer leaped out into the highway and slammed into an oncoming SUV, the first in a line of about 6 oncoming vehicles that were about 200 ft from me traveling toward me at roughly the same speed that I was going. The deer slammed into the side of the SUV, and careened off of the side of the vehicle at a downward angle moving toward me. I was driving a 1999 Honda Accord LX with a 2.3 liter VTEC engine. The deer flew toward me at a forward and downward angle so that it came toward me and went underneath my vehicle's front passenger side tire before I could get stopped--before the SUV got to me. As I ran over the deer, its legs apparently hit the intake air resonator and the fender well liner. Both were torn from the vehicle and became lodged between the bottom of the passenger side of the car and the pavement. The resonator was broken into pieces and the fender well liner was wrapped around those pieces. How the deer's legs got into a position to do that particular type of damage I don't know. It was a miracle that running over the deer didn't throw me into the path of the other oncoming vehicles. I noticed a difference in the sound of the vehicle when accelerating and when going uphill, but I thought that the deer had maybe done some damage to the exhaust system as well. Amazingly, there was no other damage to my vehicle, and the SUV wasn't even dented. I can't say as much for the poor deer. (I still don't know why it leapt from a safe place on the side of the road into 50 mph oncoming traffic.)
Your video told me what I needed to know about the resonator's purpose and the disadvantages of driving the car without the intake resonator. Thank you for the informative video 3 years after you posted it.
Remove the air box resonator I guarantee you will never ever go back if not reinstall the resonator if you don't like the results don't be scared
I went back. Engine was rough around 45 mph without the intake resonator.
Went back within 24hrs and thanked the gm engineers lol
Your individual results may vary I myself was very expressed with my results but to each his own if you don't try you won't ever know peace and much respect to all Jason again if you don't like the results put it back to stock
Science disagrees with you
Every time i research intake resonators, i can never get an accurate answer to whether it hurts performance or not. The answers given by science nerds such as the one in this video make no sense. They say "the resonator has no interference with airflow whatsoever" then why the fuck does removing it hurt performance, if it truly doesnt interfere with airflow? Why do aftermarket cold air intakes, which don't have resonators, increase HP contrary to what the nerds are saying? Why do the legendary CT Engineering Ice Box intakes increase hp even though they are direct copies of stock intakes with a few modifications, one of which is removal of the resonator? And even if removing the resonator on a stock intake hurts hp, I'm sure it's negligible. And im even more sure that a tune would fix any loss immediately and give gains. I digress.
Excellent explanation! In the plumbing world it is called the water hammer effect. If a water line is closed too fast it will cause a water hammer bang on the valve face. The resonator works very similar to the arrestor in the way it absorbs pressure waves.
Thank you so much for this video. I've been having this droning noise from my engine. And my mechanic hasn't been able to diagnose it. But I only remember hearing this noise since I removed the resonator because bit was loose. I get terrible fuel economy and everyone is always asking me why my car makes that weird sound.
What kinda car u got.
Should we wait for the dyno pulls to back up the no increased horsepower statement?
Edited to add that torque increases can be a benefit, too, and while HP gains could be in a non-useful area of the curve, TQ would be useful.
Thank you, I just discovered this on my intake piping- quite perplexing. You enlightened me.
I've had both my resonators deletes on my car. Haven't had no issues. Had better, and smoother throttle. A res delete is perfect for a turbo charged engine, not to mention less weight without a resonator. Only liberals and politically correct people will be against it.
Great and clear explanation. I was looking for that info since I accidentally noticed that resonator was broken heavily (50% of box is missing) in my CX7 that I just bought. Engine is quite noisy, new part ordered, and thank to you I know now how important it is. I hope this will make it quiet back again. Thank you. Regards from Poland!
One of the best videos about this topic, thank you so much!
I appreciate your effort in explaining about resonator. It was very technical.👍👍
Yeah I talked to a GM engineer about my Duramax, he said they are useless. I took mine off. My turbo did spool faster and did have a more distinct turbo sound. It’s not substantial, but it’s there. No there is no power increase, that I can feel, just some sound difference. Cleans up the engine bay as well. Do what you want, but it want hurt your truck’s performance what so ever. Banks even makes a delete for the L5P. Banks it’s all about performance, if it hurt it they wouldn’t make it. Just my 2 cents.
Oh My God
This is one of the videos that I can imagine every flows/ details thats been happening inside the air intake and out to the exhaust system. I have been searching for years for the functions of the intake resonator (which a lot of people fail to clearly make me understand it) plus, you did it without using images and animations, the way you put the fact and flows of what happening inside the engines pop up in my mind. I say congratulatulations. this is a big help in understanding how "misterious" part of engines works.
This is so specific to the application. A CIA and quality exhaust with a tune can be great but he's not wrong that some times the factory setup is better. It's not so black and white.
I was just thinking about removing my intake resonator. Good thing I watched this video. Thanks 👍
Glad it helped
@@CliffsGarage I want more power I don't want to make headers no want sound what I'm doing for exhaust muffler delete or ?
I didn't think a resonator was worth a 14 minute video. Well, it does and it's well worth it 👍 thanks
Makes sense…my stock air box has both resonators on the actual intake tube and air duct from the bumper…Pretty much all after market intakes for my stang eliminate these for some reason.
A bit more detail: Resonance implies oscillation/vibration. Intake resonators are designed so that pressure waves created from closed intake valves travelling out the intake tract get "stored" and are reflected back into the engine, arriving just as the valves re-open (within a specific, narrow RPM range). This packs more fresh air into the cylinders than would otherwise be possible (mild supercharging effect). The intake of a modern engine is literally tuned like a musical instrument so that the effect occurs near an RPM most beneficial for that engine. The sound you get by blowing air across the top of an empty bottle is a good demonstration of the concept.
I could hear my motorcycle's airbox humming at certain rpm. is it normal? I think it was the rpm where the engine was at its peak power.
@@glowiever You must have good ears to be able to notice a motorcycle airbox resonating at peak power above all the other noises going on. As long as it was just a "hum" I wouldn't think much of it.
@@supermarioisacat my motorcycle setup was optimized to reduce noise as much as possible. I love silent motorcycle. other than spraying injector sound and valves being tapped, my motorcycle is pretty silent and healthy. I could hear the loud humming sound, exactly like someone blowing over a bottle head, except it's deeper (had more bass), kinda freaked me out when I was riding fast thru the dark, rural road lol. it had a certain ghastly "boo"-ing sound to it. but it only happen in certain narrow range rpm, around 6000-7000 rpm-ish I guess. It also felt like the bike had extra "push" when that happens, so I'm happy.
@@glowiever Yeah, that pretty much describes it perfectly. As the engine reaches it's optimal RPM there can be a noticeable "surge" of power similar to, but nowhere near as strong as, a tuned two-stroke "getting on the pipe."
Very nice explanation sir. And to think I was considering a modification to delete mine. Won’t be doing that!
Thank you very much, I have the same car as you and I was thinking precisely about that, if by removing it I would gain power and sound due to having better air flow, now I know that it is not worth it and I will save myself the loss of time and effort, thank you very much!
Best explanation i have seen in a long time ... 👍
My Nissan Rogue Sport has 2 intake resonators; the pre-intake resonator that is at the top of the battery, and the after intake resonator that is at the top of the engine valve cover or spark plug. I ran a test on Highway 223 from Adobe intersection to the roundabout and back, a total of 10 miles, with and without the pre-intake resonator. I accelerated gently until 55mph and stayed there, then deactivated cruise control on the flashing yellow signs until the roundabout, then 25 mph hard U-turn, then gently accelerated to 55mph on the way back until my starting point, let it idle for 30s before turning off. Then starting again after 5mins and repeat the same process. I got 34.8MPG w/ the pre-intake resonator, and 35MPG without it.
So I hear a lot of conflicting opinions on this with no scientific proof; I’d love to see a video of an intake system with a vacuum gauge showing the difference in resistance. As shown with your intake a pass through resonator system but with vehicles like mine that has a snake through resonator system. I would like to see the differences.
I was a project engineer at Magna, If you are hearing conflicting opinions about the resonator function by multiple automotive engineers then they are not qualified to understand the design intent. This gentlemen as described is fundamentally correct. A common car part serves a purpose all tied to efficiency improvement
what does a resonator before air filter? Is it working same, or it must be just after air filter?
Now i visualized how the turbo surges have that stacatto noise!!! thank you!
I have a 2006 s2000 and have literally done every combo of pipe sizing, mufflers, exhaust resonators, cats, and the perfect setup I found was cat delete asap. I have a 3”single pipe coming off my collector and it leads into a resonator that’s right under my passenger seat to kinda keep cabin noise less drony. Then it goes straight out to a 4” tip no muffler. Sound wise it’s loud but not obnoxious and it’s given me the most power of all the setups
This was an awesome explanation. You're amazing.
I just stopped the video at 1:32 because the resonator delete that people are talking about is apart of the exhaust, not the air intake.
Not true
yeah no ur wrong
No i think he means that the resonator delete that we noobs are refering to (well these days anyway) is the large rectangular/3d oval-shaped chamber under the car just before the muffler at the end i.e. the resonator dealing with the gases leaving the engine. This is my first time hearing about an intake resonator under the hood, which i assume is a separate resonator dealing with incoming air as opposed to exiting air. Or are they the same thing? Correct me if im wrong. @@CliffsGarage
Wery good video about the subject. Thats why some tuners measure the lenght from intake to filter to match certain rpm, for many automotive makers noice canceling and emission/economy controll are more important than absolute peak power so resonator boxes are more matched to those recruiments.
The numero uno reason to remove the resonator intake...it gives you greater access to other engine parts!!! It's always in the way covering everything. I find it easier and better to just delete the resonator.
Exactly why in delete all mine. Idgaf if it kills or gives me performance if it makes my life easier doing work to the motor lol
Awesome video 👊😁
If you want to learn this with more clarity learn about high performance 2-stroke exhaust..
It's quite complicated because those pressure waves are not 'air pressure' it's 'sound wave pressure' that pushes backwards...
Confused 🤣 good !!!
I understand this argument and it maybe true for turbo applications giving a larger volume of air for spool up. But the main reason they did this from the factory was so they didn't have customers coming into the dealerships complaining about engine noise. Like some comments aftermarket intakes do not this resonator; and most aftermarket intakes are not true cold air intakes. These are both true. The factory intake on most vehicles are already cold air intakes. The resonator takes up air volume and in turn noise because it is canceling the intake pulses with volume. But that resonator is also inside the engine bay being heat soaked. That volume of air inside is also heat soaked. When the engine calls for full throttle (your foot) it is pulling that heat soaked air into the engine as well as the colder air from the air box. The air inside the resonator is already at a lower pressure because it has already passed through the air filter (restriction) so it becomes the first air to enter the engine. Exhaust pulses are true and very important after combustion; especially on 2 stroke engines with wild expansion pipes to help/need scavenging. In a 4 stroke a resonator will cancel out exhaust pulses (tuned to correct length) and reduce drone and in turn sound and not effect exhaust flow much. That pressure pulse from an intake valve closing will bounce to the next cylinder on the next cylinder on the intake stroke. The resonator is just soaking up this pressure wave with volume. No race car/ performance car or truck is designed with an intake resonator. I'm not trying to argue with you sir just trying to give a different point of view.
Thanks for this video. I've known about this but wanted confirmation. I have a MK3 Focus and a common mod is putting on a partially open air box lid. But on the NA Focus the resonator actually makes really ugly harmonics through the rev range. So I just block it off with a pill bottle cap (since the open lid nullifies the resonator anyway). The only disadvantage is that it lost torque between 1250 and 1500 RPM. But oddly enough it didn't affect fuel economy at all. Just very low RPM performance. So I decided the sound was worth the torque. Running E85 actually had a more significant effect on performance for me.
Manufacturers willingly sacrifice mid-upper (thus, peak) power for increased low-mid torque all the time for improved 'driveability' to the average driver who doesn't care. In a lot of cases there's a big loss in peak power for a relatively small gain in torque (especially on recent-ish engines with very high flow potential, variable timing, etc.), though it's often the manifold runner design that does this and changing the intake can't change a whole lot beyond induction noise. In an NA engine, you basically have to choose between low-mid and high-rpm power unless you use dual-port variable manifolds (like Ford used in the 90s and 2000s, with others) that basically negate the problem.
So, yeah I'm not surprised at your results and the Mk 2/3 Focus i4s are great engines that were known for good low-end and decent power which makes me suspect it's less in the manifold and more in the intake/exhaust design. Great cars with the Manual
So not only are you getting under hood heat sucked in, you're now also fighting the "reverb" airflow when you swap to a aftermarket Cold Air kit... Makes me feel even better for spending the $60 on just a drop in filter and keeping my OEM intake system lol Thanks!
Not true, a correct cold air intake increased my horsepower of my Acura TL by 6 horsepower. The trick was getting wider intake pipes, positioning the intake by the original airflow inlet on the bumper, and just overall making sure air is flowing from outside by getting measurements and cutting pipes correctly. Also you can add heat tape near the throttle body part of intake to moderately decrease the heat of pipes
Granted it was only 6 horsepower on the dyno, but it was hotter that day so it might be more. Also it might not be worth it. I spent 120$ total. However both low end and high end increased and throttle response. So if you’re willing to put in time, it can work
A snout with a filter on the end isn't a cold air intake.
@@maxparker5199 Youre talking about a custom DIY setup and its awesome to know you put the time/effort into doing it, rather than off the self parts.. I was talking about the $500-900 off the self kits, with open cone filters with some "shields and rubber gaskets to seal to the hood" Anyways...
Currently in process of 3D printing the finished parts now in high temp ASA. The OEM intake horn/snout that bends to a 70 degree bend to the inner fender BUT with the fender inner liner it has no real fresh cool air to draw from. Pulled it out and cut it right at the flange to mount into the air box, so I still have the OEM seal to the box. Route it forward through the 4" gap between the radiator and the Rad support. Kind of how the Hellcat head light intake port is. Printed it with a minor smooth bed to avoid any water dirt etc and added a hexagon screen design to the flared for extra protection. My intake temp was 120-135 (under hood pulling from the fender) I'll have to see what it is once it's finished.
Like yours, Day A temperatures vs Day G can skew a result +/- oneies and twoies in some cases.
That's why I bought an Invidia 3inch SS exhausts. It's very quiet but gives that power when going high speed.
I tested removing the resonator on my Duramax diesel and I noticed decreased performance, so I replaced the resonator.
If the intake resonator is pre air box, would sound reduction be the only effect? It seems like the air box it self would dissipate the pressure waves.
I too wanted to know more about this and understanding why some are before the air filter and some are after.
this is really interesting. I used to have a Chevy cavalier that I did an exhaust and intake on, and it sounded absolutely terrible. the engine sounded good overall, but there was this horrid rasp, after tons of research Im very sure it was a resonance/frequency issue, I even had a resonator installed to help, didnt quite work. but it also had a K&N short ram intake on it, and after watching this video, Id be willing to bet the intake resonance vs the exhaust was making it sound weird..
on that note, I also had another theory, I live in CO, so we have reduced power, but also the piping wad 2.5" on a low power car.. and there was a theory that the exhaust gas was slowing down and also causing a weird noise
My 04 durango has a resonator duct that goes over the top of the engine and it's only purpose is noise control and it increases intake temperature so it's gonna go the resonator in front of the throttle body can stay cause it's not heating air or at least not very much
It's a resonator. That means there's a reson why it's there. Don't remove it boys. Be resonable.
my honda civic basically has a cold air exhaust stock because it goes directly to the front grill and it’s sealed off but it’s got 2 extra tubes that go in a loop in the bottom to act as a resonator. so if I block that off i’ll get a nice intake whine when accelerating so i think im just gonna do it.
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
@bankspower deleting a resonator on stock air intake by itself can hurt more than help?
My 1997 Acura CL 2.2 VTEC f22b1 has both a plastic intake resonator & a butterfly box style helmholz resonator. I have an open downpipe which feels and sound great...
But I decided to keep the stock cold air intake system, and just add a K&N drop in filter.
I have a manual 2013 ford focus se and I removed it, the only difference it made was that I could hear the intake sound (which I like). I think it depends on the vehicle, the resonator on mine is very small so I doubt it does much.
The air intake resonator has an element or filter in it 6 Gen camaro. I'm replacing mine- sick of the throbbing sound coming from the fire wall, that pancake looking thing on the end of the flex hose can get blocked I heard
Thank you the clear and informative explanation!
You bet!
What I'm wondering is how much does a resonator actually help in dissipating the back pressure. Or can a straight cold air intake shove more air into the engine to compensate any back pressure or turbulence loss. I mean just look at a supercharger
Air intakes don't "shove" anything, a turbo would do that. Air intakes are just like the hose on a vacuum cleaner.
it depends your pipe lenght and how well it matches whit intake wave lenght on certain rpm, effect is called dymanic chargin or hemholts resonace charcingn its used in intake tuning but can be used to for smaller effect on the pipe from intake to filter aswell.
Now I'm confused. I have a 09 base corvette. They come with a resonator, but the Z06 does not. I replaced mine with a Z06 resonator for an increase in sound. I didn't notice any lose of power.
Does this principle still apply to a turbocharged engine? What any intakes where the resonator is plumbed in before the air box?
Brilliant explanation sir.
Removed mine to open up more space in the engine bay. Makes doing coolant flushes easier, and other things. Im pretty sure it does absolutely nothing in my car. 2019 civic coupe ex turbo.
What about resonator up under the car????
Bad fuel pump = Broken Resonator?? Backfire Versus Resonator = Broken Resonator 2004 chevy express van 3500 6.0 8/16/22 was having trouble starting the engine and would have to push the accelerator to the floor to start sometimes, one day it would start no longer. was acting like had no fuel, tested with starter fluid and it ran as long as i could spray it in. however on 2nd attempt at starting with starter fluid i pushed the accelerator to the floor and it backfired, replaced the fuel pump, and still had trouble starting and running bad, sent to mechanic said resonator was broken and was bypassing mass air flow sensor and it couldn't read properly. what is a resonator and here i am learning more about it, it was blown up a big piece was missing and its under the airflow large diameter pipe or box easy to miss and never notice The way its made is clearly a brittle material and it has large seams almost like its made to break it blew apart at the seams and it blew out a large area and pieces of it. maybe the years of shock waves weakened it. Coincidence it stopped right behind the mechanic's shop and i asked them how were they going to get it to the shop. he said we use starting fluid.
so 1 man must be walking outside with hood up and 1 driving to the shop stall.
be careful with starter fluid cost me 130. diagnostic 20. of epoxy for temp use and i quess i need to order one for 65. 9. uber ride starter fluid backfire cost me 214.00 so far and lots of time, but i am thankful for mechanics diagnostic of and learning about this resonator. this is my first time using starter fluid just thankful it didnt blow up my intake manifold which is also polymer material. 1 backfire is all it takes to blow it up. thinkin bout just put 1.5 inch 90 pvc elbow and a 12 inch pc capped seems about the same size and it doesn't have seams it would never break or blow up again.
And what if resonator chamber is on the very beginning of intake before air filter? You can find that in Honda K24 engine for example.
Can you explain?
My Hyundai Getz has this same configuration, resonator box is located before air filter. In this video it's located after air filter.
So my common sense tells me the Getz resonator box is removable and any returning pressure from motor should be dampened in the air filter, and also there is a carburetor in the way to tackle returning pressure.
I would still like to hear more thoughts about this issue from more experienced people though.
No. Because it doesn't fit the narrative.
A few aftermarket intake manufacturers are starting to “tune” resonators into their kits. AFE, Banks and Morimoto to state a few. Morimoto has even stated that intakes they made without resonators made less power than stock “Jeep JL 3.6 testing”. Very interesting and real engineering!
Sir, let me first thank you for confirming what my beliefs are. I'll start by saying this, I purchased a Roush cold air intake for my 21' Mustang GT. Once I pulled all the parts out, I immediately noticed a large port was missing off the 90deg piece coming from the intake. I questioned the seller, and he referred me to some literature that instructed me to delete the resonator to install this CAK. I immediately thought this guy was insane.
I always believe that engineers go to school for many years for their degrees, they are much smarter about the card they designed than most "mechanics" are even in so-called performance shops. I will not delete any part designed to achieve the highest level of performance from the factory. They know what works.
MY QUESTION TO YOU (I hope you get this). There is a spot on the new 90deg elbow that I could easily drill and add the resonator tube to the new part. In your opinion, will this operate the same? Or should I stick with stock? The only real reason I want the CAK is for the look of it. It has a see through window to see the filter.
I'd say it's highly unlikely that adding the resonator in that position would work as intended. As you say, it was engineered specifically for that car in the stock position.
@Cliff's Garage That's what I was thinking too. Thank you for taking time to respond. I loved your video. You obviously know what your talking about. It's being sent back. Keep up the good work and spread the word. Cold air intakes should not be deleted.
No prep cars do not have resonators and their hp is not affected, obviously. Resonators affect only throttle response. However, in high rpm, in high performance engines with tunable or aftermarket ECU’s, you want a higher compressed intake/intake charge that the ECU can use to increase air/fuel ratio, This is why race motors, N/A or forced induction ones, do not use intake resonators
First car 1957 British consul from my Dad that i started to learn on, second car that i bought for $50 1955 Plymouth fury v8, FIRST MOD..........Thrush woody woodpecker muffler ! : > ) Thank you !
on some engines it most definatly makes the engine more powerful. for the most part if your car uses one of those shitty electronic throttle bodies and is a 4 cylinder it wont help for the most part. on my sisters pentastar 3.6 liter the delete made the car more peppy. now. if you want to remove your intake silencer and you find that it hurt your performance you might actually be able to turn that into a gain by reducing diamater of intake. which may sound counter intuitive but no. not in this case. in this case it should correct the exhaust scavenging while providing the same amount of airflow to the engine. well even if this does work wheres the benefit? the benefit is 1. sound 2. faster response. the lower diamater intake tube will deliver air Faster into the engine and should undoubfuly give it some more pepp. in this case the lower diamater intake tube should not cause any loss (it should be as little of a difference as possible.) thanks to the removal of the very restrictive intake resonator. also in alot of 4 cylinders reducing exhaust diamater while eliminating as much restriction not related to diamater as possible will give you better acceleration, not because of backpressure, backpressure is never good. but because most 4 cylinder OEM exhaust systems (especially naturally aspirated OEM systems) are designed very badly with low resonation, which i think actually be why many cars need the intake resonator is to make up for its shitty ineeficient exhaust system. resonators most DEFINATLY CAUSE A RESTRICTION its just in the case this guy is talking about it isnt because its responsible for the exhaust resonation due to a shitty exhaust system. srry for bad grammar and spelling but youtube comments lag for me very bad i think because of the ai censors tryina stop me from spreading their definition of hate.
and really i must say that exhaust systems are poorly designed on purpose because it makes it harder for the sensors to detect the correct concentration of gasses in the combusted gas mixture harder. in my montee carlo 3.4l MODDED ITS STRONG it had a u bend right before the first o2 sensor when i got rid of that i noticed a positive difference in power. its sad because it makes emissions worse. cars emissions do not cause climate change, evil people that control the weather through science do its no secret. but emissions are still bad pollution. also i have a highflow catalytic converter on my build, and i notice no difference in power with it on or off. they really dont cause restriction at all on most none boosted engines.
Great video and information.
I really appreciate the informative breakdown of it all. But the question arises.
If this is true as I believe it to be, why do all aftermarket intake systems not incorporate something like this?
Additionally does having a turbo charged 4 cylinder made the need for the resonator greater or less?
Most people want aftermarket because of lower weight and or reduced clutter/complexity. But unfortunately, many "intakes" draw hot air from behind the radiator, near a catalytic or from some other non-optimal location, offsetting any potential advantage. Many of those who remove their OEM intake regret it when they notice flat spots, loss of mid-range torque and possibly a general loss of power. For forced induction (turbo/super charging) many systems are required to have a resonator on the compressor inlet, but for an entirely different purpose: to help muffle it's shrill whine/whistle.
Great video, I wonder if that's the case for the resonator box directly under my air filter box tho? I mean couldn't the air just travel that short distance back to the outside?
And what if resonator chamber is on the very beginning of intake before air filter? You can find that in Honda K24 engine for example.
Can you explain?
Very good video BTW.
Same Q!!
That would be nice to know!
Dropping in a k&N air filter, will that improve anything?
This is very hood explanation. I wonder why is it that almost all manufactures have a helmholz resonator yet almost all aftermarket does not?
IMO, it's taking advantage of an ignorant consumer base. "It sounds good" leads to a lot of bad products (and public policy, for that matter).
Correct delete the muffler not the resonator If it’s legal to do in your state
Very clever guy! Great explanation!
Subscribed very entertaining and informative thanks!
Im assuming this is not applicable in a turbo diesel application, that backpressure would be so negligible after being compressed by the turbo.
Hey cliff, now we know that the main reason the intake resonator helps disipate the pressure compressions coming back from the valves, why are resonators on turbo cars? The resonator should never see the pulses from the valves, but only from the turbo. Could you talk on that please?
I been getting 22 mpg from my 2015 mustang v6 and after removing the resonator and got H pip installed where the resonator was now I'm getting 18 mpg plus the car is extremely loud Yes I wanted to be loud but that's a lot and the drone will drive me crazy, I'll putting it back
So how come I gained 10hp on the dyno by just adding a cold air intake that deletes the resonator?
Well, the thing is that you _didn't_ just delete the resonator. You changed a major part of the intake system. It's quite likely that if you had left the resonator, you would have gained even more.
Great video. I'm curious about pre airbox resonators, such as the type in my 2012 honda accord ex v6. Some people delete it but at the cost of the cooler air that this part provides. I don't see it as being very restrictive, in fact, I would argue it is pulling air from the ideal location. Up high behind the grill but offset so not directly open to bugs or other debris. Also there are two slots built into the initial intake which allow water and heavier debris to pass through these points instead of being drawn through to the air filter. Modern engines are designed to be optimized as a complete system. If you change one thing it can affect nearly everything else. The computers are the unsung heroes of automobiles if you ask me. I'm amazed that some of these crazy new engines work at all. Kind of neat to follow the evolution in engineering since cars were invented.
It is bad if you dont change the stock tune.
I purchased a cat-back system from MBRP for my 08 ram 1500 5.7 hemi, it did not include a resonator.
It was too loud at highway speeds, or rpm over 2000. I also was not a fan of the muffler sound at low RPM
I just switched the muffler to a Flowmaster 50 Series HD, and it still drones at higher RPM, but with a better sound at low RPM
I am about to install a re-install resonator, probably Flowmaster. Cant do stock, as I am now a dual exhaust system, was not a factory option in 08
How about air intake resonators BEFORE/alongside the filter box?
An engineer once told me a piston doesn’t “pull” in air. Rather it creates a vacuum and the air flows in when the valve opens. 🤷♂️
A great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
An engine system should be designed for optimal volumetric efficiency. Any restrictions are probably not helping that goal.
So can i ADD an intake resonator? Currently running a Jeep XJ with a '92 I6 4.0HO engine. I'm using the K&N cold-air intake, it looks like it kinda has a ballooned res over the TB, where the air collects before entering the manifold. I guess my Q is, can i just jerry something like a pvc tube to another small compartment in hopes that it becomes a resonator or would that potentially mess up my intake process?
Could you not just adapt the factory resonator from the last gen 4.0 used in the TJs, WJs, and later model XJs?
My air intakes under my hood, i want to drill hole infront of hood and pipe it directly to the intake and it be forcing more air and colder air but not sure if i should and if i do, take of stock muffler so it can exscape faster... i just dont know
Great information!
Thank you.
So it’s like a BOV in a way. Without the cool noises lol
Does replacing that accordion piping with a smoother piece of piping help over removing the whole resonator section with it? just wondering....
I would say it's unlikely to improve anything. Such a change would only affect the boundary layer flow, i.e. the area next to the piping. Engineers would have accounted for boundary layer flow reduction and made sure the center flow is sufficient for the engine's needs. In other words, yes it would increase the potential flow but have no practical effect because the existing flow is enough.
Great video. Liked and subscribed. I know some people are deleting the resonator simply cause they want it to sound louder. On the other hand, I’m on team “How can we make this car quieter”😂
Is a resonator good before or after the muffler on a chevrolet truck? 2002 2500hd silverado 6.0 motor.
First time i def messed up and theew out these two plastic tubes of you buy the cold air intakes there rubber tubes that kead to it i think to get cold air into the head. But they had to use platic tubes to connect everything eith the takaeda cold aur intake. Im worried can oil get up in my intake on my g37? I would email u a picture abd may e you can met me kniw uf im ok or not.
My stock snorkel has a molded resonator attached to itself and this fits to the air box (2006 focus) so I ask myself do I suck my air from my wheel arch or deal with back pressure in the intake
That helped a lot. Thanks mate
I been getting 22 mpg from my 2015 mustang v6 and after removing the resonator and got H pip installed where the resonator was now I'm getting 18 mpg plus the car is extremely loud Yes I wanted to be loud but that's a lot and the dron will drive me crazy
I had a 2012 V6 Mustang and did a lot of mods, you have something wrong with that big of an RPM drop from an alleged resonator delete. Are you talking about the H/X pipe that deletes the Cats? If not, and I don't know the 15+ chassis, you probably have either a big exhaust leak from a bad install or, less plausibly, the tubing is just SO oversized that it completely killed your low-rpm/low-throttle power which is definitely an issue with some exhausts. My 3.7 had the Dynomax catback with I think 2.25 tubing and BBK short headers which didn't hurt my MPG and low-end much, but long-tubes headers especially with oversized exhausts were known for losing a ton of low-mid torque.
You should probably have engine codes with that big of a difference
Hey there what's up. I have a 2015 toyota corolla base model 4 speed automatic. I always change the muffler no matter what car or truck I have. I have a different trend flow 2 muffler which is a basically a clone of the bi-directional magnaflow oval muffler 2.25 offset 2.25 inlet offset outlet. I was thinking about removing the old resonator and replacing the resonator with one from different trends or from vibrant. What should I do I'm 37 replaced the loud muffler that was on the car with different trend muffler/clone magnaflow oval muffler and it sounds just a hair about stock muffler sound which is good. Do you think I should just leave the stock resonator on there or replace the resonator with a stainless steel resonator from different trends or vibrant exhaust? What are your options?
What effect on Shelby mustang gt350? Gt350R is stock deleted
I have and old 7.3 IDI in the air cleaner it has a Helmholtz resonator known as the Soup Bowl…..A lot of guys cut them off… I tell them that it is detrimental to the engine and they don’t believe me… Would I be correct?
I have a 2007 H3 here lately a few times when I start the engine, it shakes and sounds horrible and every light on the dash comes on traction , low power u name it every light. I turn off and on let it sit and a few times later it all good. Can u guide me where to start first with fixing.
Sounds like a bad ground strap or other big power connection. Nothing else is gonna cause multiple independent systems to fail at once and this is also common on GMs with underbody rust/rot.
ok, experts, want to do muff and res delete on my 2007 BMW X3, should i just do muff delete????
This really just applies for intake resonator right? Not the resonator that is connected to the exhaust because now I’m worried that I made a mistake taking mine off. 😅
yes
So don’t take it off my 328i and replace with with silicon tube?
Well said sir fortunately my 46-year-old brain can understand it.
Do you know that simple modifications can be made to a Hummer 3.7 to improve its response or power without modifying it too much?
Great video 👍