Thanks for your videos man, greatly appreciated. I’m $1600 USD deep in a 2009 Impreza (mechanic needs a new boat maybe ?) and they’ve yet to address the CEL/TCS/Cruise lights with codes P0420 and C0057. I’m going to have a go at your list. Cheers and thanks for documenting all of this.
Keep in mind, boxers like to scuff pistons and burn oil, certainly an economy car with a boxer is no exception. Ask any Porsche boxer engine enthusiast, BMW boxer enthusiast and obviously a Subaru enthusiast. I mention this because while yes, replacing parts can help, if there's a preexisting issue with oil consumption, your car will eventually always have a P0420 due to a clogged cat or fouled sensor(s). I cleared my P0420 with new OE Denso O2 sensors and a cheap cat/header and the code went away for a few months at best. Take this video with a grain of salt, but by all means, give 'er a go, you have my blessing. But don't loose sight of the bigger picture!
@@NSUGS what would the preexisting oil consumption be caused by? Mechanic said it was timing belt or plugs, so they did that whole process and the light came back on immediately after I left the shop, next day they said it needed plug wires and an oil change, (don’t know why that wasn’t done with timing belt but.. light came right back on. I’m at my wits end and have dumped 2k into it this week. I’d be really pissed if the answer was to replace the engine or deal with not having traction control and cruise control.
Oil consumption in a boxer typically comes from piston skirt wear, it's just inherent with the design, gravity isn't helping. If you're keen with tools, the list on the video is really not hard to do yourself. You could try O2 plug extensions, I have no experience so can't recommend anything. But if you're at your wits end, you have nothing to lose. Use quality parts otherwise. Sorry I don't have much else to offer. Any questions, feel free to reach out.
Edit: timing belt replacement really won't have any noticeable effect on how the car burns fuel which is where a P0420 comes from. Start with cheap and easy parts, work your way more complex and more expensive parts unless it's obvious.
Don't forget to check your warranty for a free catalytic converter replacement. Just got mine scheduled to be replaced for free today by Subaru due to the 15y/150k warranty for cats in pzev states like NJ. OEM ftw.
Thank you! I made this video to capture my experience with a P0420, given these cars are at a minimum 100,000km, other systems and components must be considered. If nothing else, due diligence and preventative maintenance: an art in it of itself.
I had a P0420 about 2 months ago. Pulled the whole exhaust system off. Replaced both 02 sensors. Dunked the whole Cat into an ultrasonic parts cleaner for an hour at 70C . Put it all back together and it seemed to work. Today I had a misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, but I think that's an ignition issue.
A new right front Cat is $2900 from Subaru! No aftermarket convertor matches my EFN# for California unfortunately. I have done all of these except premium fuel and the upstream cat. I even cleaned the cat, took it off and looked at it with a camera from both ends. It is spotless. The P0420 continues.
I can only offer my condolences. My only other thot is being a boxer engine, gravity inherently acts like a bitch and scuffs up the bottom of the cylinder bores. Such causes wear, thus oil seepage...something I sincerely hope evades my RnineT.
@@NSUGS Mine has 290,000 km and burns oil like crazy. After I bought the car I checked the dipstick and there wasn't even any oil on the stick. So I think the owner was never even topping it up. Now I overfill it by about a quart often just so that I can get by a few weeks before I have to check it again and top off.
@@thedillestpickle you don't want to overfill it. It'll create a bunch of bubbles, turning the oil to a froth and won't lubricate and cool the cyclinders properly. It creates damage over time.
My experience with aircooled 'boxer' engines from BMW-land, lends itself to show boxers take a wee bit extra time to break in and burn a wee bit of oil given the inherit design architecture, this does not suprise me. Believe me, I lived both experiences.
And to turn it off the CEL and flashing Cruise light hold in the cruise control button while starting up the car. At least that's how to do it with a 2005 Impreza.
The amount of research I did and talking with heaps of people, no way I could keep that info for myself, given how common P0420 is with aging Subarus. Very glad to hear my work is bearing fruit for others! OE brand items are definitely key to solving P0420 for any amount of time. All things being equal and no other worn/sub-par items like leaky valve seals, a headgasket leak or carbon build up. NASIOC user 'Plain OM' (I think I got that right) is a wealth of knowledge.
How about 02 risers ? I have one on my car still messing around with it. It works for clearing the check engine light but it does come back sometimes when I use cruise control 08 subaru impreza 2.5i
I did not cover O2 sensor risers because I consider them a band-aid type fix, masking the problem. You're attempting to fool the computer. I suggest buying the best parts you can, OE if nothing else. Obviously not everyone can afford a $2000cad OE cat. But, the video hopefully, you got something out of it that helps. That's all this is: perspective and opinion.
I used a cheap, aftermarket catalytic converter on my Impreza, the P0420 code came back after ~20,000km. IIRC, a higher content of palladium and Rhodium are key for a high quality exhaust. However, there was about $1000 difference between the product I purchased compared to an OE unit.
@@NSUGS same I paid 160$ for mine and the comments said on there the code mite come back because it’s cheaper and made out of less medals but I’m not spending 900$ on a car for a fean to steal ya know but the only thing I didn’t change was the downstream sensor and when I put high octane from Wawa the little bottles the code goes away for like a week but mine stayed off for a month after I replaced the cat and whole exhaust
If I have a p0420 on my 2014 crosstrek XV and what seems like a misfire only upon accelerating when at a complete stop ? I have replaced my Cat a week ago and it seems to be the same and popped up the code again.. what would be my main cause ?
Fuel, air, ignition and heat are what a modern gasoline engine needs to run correctly. At least one of those things are not in order. Start cheap/easy and work your way to more complex/expensive jobs.
There are no O2 sensors supporting the functionality of the second catalytic converter. At least for 2.5i models. Pzev cars may be different. Basically, as long as it isn't clogged, it's assumed fine. Because there aren't any sensors telling the computer what's happening, the car doesnt know or care.
Agreed, but with unknown history and clear neglect fom previous owners, it often doesn't hurt to ignite the parts canon. The key take away is to start trying with simple and cheap solutions, working to more complex and expensive solutions. Thank for for the feedback, I no longer own a subaru currently, but similar content will be a staple of this channel.
Rock auto is such a fantastic resource, not just for buying parts but also cross references. That's how I figured out 05-09 Legacy share nearly the whole front suspension with 08-11 Impreza and 08-11 Impreza rear suspension is identical to first-gen BRZ
No rattle on PCV valve your wrong on that one you should hear the clicking freely.
Thank you, I will pin your comment.
@@NSUGS np
I didn't read comments before I typed it, just watched vid. Maybe edit...?
I just bought a new one and yes I hear something when I shake it.
Yeah, no rattle means your PCV valve is stuck lol
Im the guy you sold the mower to. Nice videos man!
Hey!
Thank you!
Currently on a roll of nonsense, but technical videos to come.
A PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) "does" rattle if it is good. When they are gummed up, they won't rattle.
See pinned comment
Hey you forgot the electrical tape trick. ie. electrical tape over the check engine light.
Thanks for the comprehensive breakdown...
No worries!
Okay, along with the good information I was cracking up at your editing.
Noice!
Thank you!
I have another Subaru video in the works, looking to improve my editing and general story telling.
Thanks for your videos man, greatly appreciated. I’m $1600 USD deep in a 2009 Impreza (mechanic needs a new boat maybe ?) and they’ve yet to address the CEL/TCS/Cruise lights with codes P0420 and C0057. I’m going to have a go at your list. Cheers and thanks for documenting all of this.
Keep in mind, boxers like to scuff pistons and burn oil, certainly an economy car with a boxer is no exception. Ask any Porsche boxer engine enthusiast, BMW boxer enthusiast and obviously a Subaru enthusiast.
I mention this because while yes, replacing parts can help, if there's a preexisting issue with oil consumption, your car will eventually always have a P0420 due to a clogged cat or fouled sensor(s). I cleared my P0420 with new OE Denso O2 sensors and a cheap cat/header and the code went away for a few months at best.
Take this video with a grain of salt, but by all means, give 'er a go, you have my blessing. But don't loose sight of the bigger picture!
@@NSUGS what would the preexisting oil consumption be caused by? Mechanic said it was timing belt or plugs, so they did that whole process and the light came back on immediately after I left the shop, next day they said it needed plug wires and an oil change, (don’t know why that wasn’t done with timing belt but.. light came right back on.
I’m at my wits end and have dumped 2k into it this week. I’d be really pissed if the answer was to replace the engine or deal with not having traction control and cruise control.
Oil consumption in a boxer typically comes from piston skirt wear, it's just inherent with the design, gravity isn't helping.
If you're keen with tools, the list on the video is really not hard to do yourself. You could try O2 plug extensions, I have no experience so can't recommend anything. But if you're at your wits end, you have nothing to lose. Use quality parts otherwise.
Sorry I don't have much else to offer. Any questions, feel free to reach out.
Edit: timing belt replacement really won't have any noticeable effect on how the car burns fuel which is where a P0420 comes from.
Start with cheap and easy parts, work your way more complex and more expensive parts unless it's obvious.
@@NSUGS which o2 sensor is this one for? The location? Bottom right side?
Don't forget to check your warranty for a free catalytic converter replacement. Just got mine scheduled to be replaced for free today by Subaru due to the 15y/150k warranty for cats in pzev states like NJ. OEM ftw.
Up here in Canaderp, we were not so fortunate. Though we did get the class action suit with the new-for-2013 2.0L engine oil consumption issue.
Where do you check if your car has the warranty
@@stephaniecastro2721The dealer is a good source for that type of information.
Great video- just what I was after. Cheers
Thank you!
I made this video to capture my experience with a P0420, given these cars are at a minimum 100,000km, other systems and components must be considered.
If nothing else, due diligence and preventative maintenance: an art in it of itself.
I had a P0420 about 2 months ago.
Pulled the whole exhaust system off. Replaced both 02 sensors. Dunked the whole Cat into an ultrasonic parts cleaner for an hour at 70C . Put it all back together and it seemed to work.
Today I had a misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, but I think that's an ignition issue.
That must be a large ultrasonic cleaner!
@@NSUGS It's pretty big I think it's about 10L. It comes in handy for many things.
A new right front Cat is $2900 from Subaru! No aftermarket convertor matches my EFN# for California unfortunately. I have done all of these except premium fuel and the upstream cat. I even cleaned the cat, took it off and looked at it with a camera from both ends. It is spotless. The P0420 continues.
I can only offer my condolences.
My only other thot is being a boxer engine, gravity inherently acts like a bitch and scuffs up the bottom of the cylinder bores. Such causes wear, thus oil seepage...something I sincerely hope evades my RnineT.
@@NSUGS Mine has 290,000 km and burns oil like crazy.
After I bought the car I checked the dipstick and there wasn't even any oil on the stick.
So I think the owner was never even topping it up.
Now I overfill it by about a quart often just so that I can get by a few weeks before I have to check it again and top off.
@@thedillestpickle you don't want to overfill it. It'll create a bunch of bubbles, turning the oil to a froth and won't lubricate and cool the cyclinders properly. It creates damage over time.
fun and informative 🤙
Thank you!
Let me know if you think I should make an updated one...and edited better and better audio
Also is it know for cats to go on these subarus mine is an 08 with only 60k
My experience with aircooled 'boxer' engines from BMW-land, lends itself to show boxers take a wee bit extra time to break in and burn a wee bit of oil given the inherit design architecture, this does not suprise me.
Believe me, I lived both experiences.
😒👍 Nice List Broh, i like your hand written log book, im too much of a Slacker to do something like that 😅
Terrible memory forces me to be a good note taker!
Thanks for watching!
And to turn it off the CEL and flashing Cruise light hold in the cruise control button while starting up the car. At least that's how to do it with a 2005 Impreza.
Huh. Neat, I didn't know that!
I sold my Impreza June 2022, so I can't know if it works on 2008-2011 Imprezas
Thank you so much for this checklist; I genuinely appreciate it. I'm facing this problem in my 2011 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 2.5i.
The amount of research I did and talking with heaps of people, no way I could keep that info for myself, given how common P0420 is with aging Subarus. Very glad to hear my work is bearing fruit for others!
OE brand items are definitely key to solving P0420 for any amount of time. All things being equal and no other worn/sub-par items like leaky valve seals, a headgasket leak or carbon build up.
NASIOC user 'Plain OM' (I think I got that right) is a wealth of knowledge.
How about 02 risers ? I have one on my car still messing around with it. It works for clearing the check engine light but it does come back sometimes when I use cruise control 08 subaru impreza 2.5i
I did not cover O2 sensor risers because I consider them a band-aid type fix, masking the problem. You're attempting to fool the computer.
I suggest buying the best parts you can, OE if nothing else. Obviously not everyone can afford a $2000cad OE cat. But, the video hopefully, you got something out of it that helps. That's all this is: perspective and opinion.
i do that bc im not paying $3000 for an oem cat converter when my car is worth about $4800
makes the readings inaccurate I would highly suggest you not to do this.
I have the same code on my 2004 Honda accord ex sedan replaced the whole exhaust and code came back crazy
I used a cheap, aftermarket catalytic converter on my Impreza, the P0420 code came back after ~20,000km. IIRC, a higher content of palladium and Rhodium are key for a high quality exhaust. However, there was about $1000 difference between the product I purchased compared to an OE unit.
@@NSUGS same I paid 160$ for mine and the comments said on there the code mite come back because it’s cheaper and made out of less medals but I’m not spending 900$ on a car for a fean to steal ya know but the only thing I didn’t change was the downstream sensor and when I put high octane from Wawa the little bottles the code goes away for like a week but mine stayed off for a month after I replaced the cat and whole exhaust
Nice
@@NSUGS I got about 5 years on a $200 cat and I think I got about $150 exchange when I took my old cat to the scrapper.
If I have a p0420 on my 2014 crosstrek XV and what seems like a misfire only upon accelerating when at a complete stop ? I have replaced my Cat a week ago and it seems to be the same and popped up the code again.. what would be my main cause ?
Fuel, air, ignition and heat are what a modern gasoline engine needs to run correctly.
At least one of those things are not in order. Start cheap/easy and work your way to more complex/expensive jobs.
Another Great video!
What about rear side Catalytic converter. What mileage you need to replace them before going bad?
There are no O2 sensors supporting the functionality of the second catalytic converter. At least for 2.5i models. Pzev cars may be different.
Basically, as long as it isn't clogged, it's assumed fine. Because there aren't any sensors telling the computer what's happening, the car doesnt know or care.
@@NSUGS thanks for reply
Humor and good work combined. Using the parts cannon? Not recommended.
Agreed, but with unknown history and clear neglect fom previous owners, it often doesn't hurt to ignite the parts canon.
The key take away is to start trying with simple and cheap solutions, working to more complex and expensive solutions.
Thank for for the feedback, I no longer own a subaru currently, but similar content will be a staple of this channel.
$22 each for ngk laser iridium
Gotta wait for them sales, guy
I got them for about $15 each on Rockauto
Rock auto is such a fantastic resource, not just for buying parts but also cross references.
That's how I figured out 05-09 Legacy share nearly the whole front suspension with 08-11 Impreza and 08-11 Impreza rear suspension is identical to first-gen BRZ
i can tell you do alot of reading but you are, highly, inaccurate.
Hello and welcome to the channel! We here at NSUGS appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
You're using commas incorrectly