EXCELLENT, I've been researching the P0420 for two days now. Your explanation and demonstration of the Temp, Pre and Post sensor readings really helped to bring all this together. Plus the added feed back from the muffler shop is good, but, not sure if I'm ready to spend $$$ on an OEM, darn.
I just had my 2011 at the dealership for cats... quote came back at $9,110.50. I almost lit the car on fire. Went with Walker, so far the readings have been good. Fingers 🤞
Yeah it's ridiculous how expensive these cats are! When I went to the parts store for the warranty exchange they said walker discontinued the part number I had bought before. they have a new number so hopefully it's an updated part and and they fixed whatever was the issue before.
@@kylekarsten721 that's awesome I just did mine and the walker one didn't have the threaded holes and I struggle to find some but I finally just went with M10s x 1.25 wish they were longer but they work.
And if your car is a PZEV, you need a super special CARB compliant cat, which will be even more expensive. If you install a regular cat on a PZEV, it will still throw a CEL, disable the cruise control, etc.
I'm glad I watched your video. I just had my cat replaced on a 09 subaru legacy. Its only been 7 months and my check engine light is coming on again. Got the code read and its throwing the P0420. I am getting tired of fixing the car and think the previous owner's mechanic was a super bad one. It was supposed to have had the heads redone, but they put copper silicone on those causing the heads to go again less than one week after getting the car. $3,000 dollars later, it ran again. Then last month we changed the brakes, took off the rotors to find that the OEM rotors were BIGGER than the ones on there. Thankfully with new calipers the new rotors worked, but had to replace brakes, rotors, and calipers all the way around the car. I will need to think about how much more money I want to throw into this car as it only has 150,000 miles on it, but has already cost me over 7,000 between buying and fixing. It only throws the code periodically right now, but still runs smoothly even when the check engine light is on. I just hate that I can't use cruise control when the stupid check engine light is on.
Very good video! Way to have confidence in your diagnosis to not only call a bad part on the replacement but also to convince the customer to spend $$$ on an OEM converter.
Yeah their 3 times what an aftermarket converter would be! But doing this for work I'm going to recommend OEM on these from now on. I don't want to be doing warranty work shortly down the road. This one was frustrating 😕
im trying strategize for our 2009 outback with this problem. our shop explained they have had the same experience you did and they only use the subaru parts also... I really want a used cat, but i’m told it is illegal to sell them.
Thank you for this informative video! But jeez, as if the oil burning and head gasket issues aren't bad enough, throw super expensive converters into the equation. On our 07 Forester, we'll just keep resetting the check engine light until we get a new (non Subaru) car.
Our 2008 outback, factory converter is 3800, Orange county California. Just the front converter. Thank God I've done all the work myself. video! Thanks for taking your time to post the video. God bless you in health and wealth. Subscribed to the channel. God bless you all working on these expensive subaru's. First and last subaru we'll own. I also want to burn this puppy down. Lol!
Thank you. Excellent presentation. I have a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek. OEM cat replaced by Subaru dealer at 42,000. Now at 67,000 the P0420 has shown up again today. Replacing both sensors first to see if that's it. If this 2nd OEM cat is bad, I'm replacing it with a Toyota. The key to all this started at 11:50 - "One thing to keep in mind....." this summed up the whole Subaru cat issue in a nutshell.
@MICKIN310 Turns out a clogged fuel injector caused my Code. Insane. Rough idle caused by fuel injector dripping rather than a mist, not a need for a new cat or sensor. I sold my Crosstrek and bought a RAV. I simply cannot waste time and money on crap like this...as much as I loved the Crosstrek I scrapped the rig.
Im about to just straight pipe mine if the replacement i ordered failed 😂 i didnt buy the OE spec converter but at this point any new converter is better than the box of rocks i got bolted on now
I have the same experience with my 2009 2.5i 135K Subaru Legacy. I bought it used with 135K miles. I use an OBDII device that connects to my phone. Replaced both O2 sensors, cat (Walker/Rockauto), spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, corrected exhaust leaks, added an oil catch can, changed the timing belt and pulleys. The car runs well and now, there are no codes, except for P0420. After the cat was replaced, passed CA smog, it ran for about 3500 miles before P0420 returned. Since then, the code will return every 180 to 500 miles after clearing the code. I have also tried Cataclean (twice), and removing the cat and cleaning with detergent like so many other youtube videos. The federal exchange warranty is useless. In my case, I would have to purchase another cat, send back the faulty one ($$ shipping), and IF Walker determines that the cat was bad, they will reimburse. Why would I want to purchase another cat ($700) that is likely to fail in less than 4k miles just to have Walker say it was poisened by my high mileage engine? (I don't expect them to say it was a faulty cat, eventhough it looks like an OEM cat will work much better). So, now I am at 174K miles 16 months later. From your video, I am nearly convinced that if I want the P0420 code to go away, I will have to purchase a new OEM cat and install it before getting it smogged in 4 months when registration comes due. I really enjoy the way this car drives. Its even enjoyable to work on. I just wish it was illegal for aftermarket parts manufacturers to sell products that do not meet OEM specs and to seduce buyers with meaningless warrantees. "Big lesson learned" indeed...great video!
I did all the same for my 09 legacy. Im still battling the 420 code and pass my inspection. Although i do have bad oil consumption with the engine to boot. Im trying the apark plug fowler juat so I can pass inspection till I can get the OEM cat and rip out the engine ugh
Have you tried a o2 sensor spacer? That's tricks the computer and the cat. I hear good things. Trying it this weekend as I have the 420 with my Impreza. Lucky I live in Ontario where we don't do smog tests tho. I just want my cruise control back lol
Part f the issue with some of the aftermarket converter/manifolds, is the FLOW, if you will, they restrict flow to and or from the converter, causing the sensors to read and throw codes.
When it comes to spark plugs, does it matter too if you get it from your brand (my case) Hyundai OEM compared to auto zone spark plugs? I totally agree with aftermarket cause and effect ....thanks much
You said the aftermarket lasted 2 years. You know how many miles it lasted for that customer? Also, what was the brand of the second aftermarket converter you tried that did not work out for you before settling on the genuine Subaru one? Thanks.
Thanks for the video. My walker cat cracked on the pipe before going into the collector. Had that welded and im still getting the 420 code. Im assuming the bad walker cat and oil consumption on the engine is causing these issues. Im trying the spark plug fowler to just get rid of the code for the time being to pass inspection until I can rip the engine out and buy an OEM cat. Subaru's new moto " You'll love it till you hate it!" Does anyone know if a MagnaFlow OEM cat is as good as a Subaru? Or will it be another walker issue? The MagnaFlow is cheaper than subaru but twice the cost of a walker.
Yea you thanks for explain why parts cost more for quality. I noticed the larger chambers before and after the cat. Cool to see… it would be nice if we had a service for them. Like how to clean them that’s worth the effort. I herd lacquer thinner 1gal:1/2tank and 150 drive Miles. Any ideas?
Very good description, demonstration and explanation. Now I'm just concerned about how expensive tomorrow's exhaust workshop bill could be... (identical car, in Straya) 😬
You are in the 760 in vista? You're not far from me. Thank you for the fed regulation info and I think I'm going to ask that my mechanic go oem on the converter I need for my Impreza. For lambda because you were using your device as an oscilloscope you were talking about the distance peak to peak, correct??
Hello Great video Have subaru crisstreck first gen. Have same readings on oxigen sensor BUT...i also hace water coming out of exaust...is that head gasket?...or converter? Thank you sonmuch
Some water in the exhaust is a normal byproduct of the catalyst process. You'll notice drips of water out of the tailpipe or a weep hole in your muffler.
Very good video, do you think the aftermarket one would las ta few thousand miles at least? Or would it have caused a check engine light right away because of the efficiency.
How often did the customer drive and what was the av drive time? Most cars suffer from under use and short trips. Not absolving Subaru from its issues but under use is just as bad as hard use
I'm using the Launch X431. There are a good number of options out there for using your phone. The only one I've had experience with is Blue Driver. You just need a tool that can read and graph live engine data with a good refresh rate.
I changed out my front cat with an ap eastern. Ran amazing for 35 seconds. Now running like crap again. Can’t accelerate and shaking back and forth. Midas says it’s the rear cat too. What do you think?
It could be the rear cat. A plugged exhaust will make a car run horrible and sometimes make them not run at all. What you can do is disconnect the exhaust behind the front cat and see if it runs better. If it does then reconnect the exhaust and unbolt it behind the rear cat and see if it acts up again.
You just need an oxygen sensor socket. Other than that regular hand tools should work (if not too rusty). It takes about 1-2 hours if everything comes off smoothly 👍
Hey, just trying to diagnose a Cat issue right now on a 2009 outback. I ran some tests with my OBDII reader and the B1S1 reading sticks around 0.99 lambda under load (2000rpm) or at idle, but the reading i get for O2S B1S2 is around 0.865 to 0.9(V) under load and fluctuates a lot at idle. That second number seems high to me, but I don't have any fluctuations according to the graphs I'm seeing . The CEL only kicks on after I drive the thing for around 10-30 minutes at around 2500rpm, and shows P0420, and it doesn't do it every time it seems pretty random. Just trying to figure out what best course of action is and what is most likely cause in your opinion. Any input is appreciated. Was gonna run some cataclean through it tomorrow to see if that helped.
Under acceleration the engine will be richer than normal so the rear o2 will read a higher voltage. When you let off the throttle and are decelerating the fuel injectors should shut off causing the engine to be lean and the rear o2 voltage will be low. That's normal operation. The car should be checked at idle and a steady cruise on relatively flat ground. The rear o2 should be steady above 0.5 volts (typically 0.6-0.7). The 0.99 lambda is good. Before replacing a cat make sure you're not burning oil and or coolant. Eventually this will kill your new cat and you're stuck giving them your second child for a new converter.
@@TmanT321 What ever came of this? I'm in the same boat with a 2012 Outback. My B1S2 sensor is all over the place when at idle, but is steady and >.8 when under load. I suspect a pinhole exhaust leak, but I haven't been able to find it. CEL is currently off, but has come on twice this year.
I have a 2013 crosstrek with 138k miles. Just got code p0420 can you replace the cst with a used one? I live in Cali so i cant just buy an aftermarket one.
Didn't get it, why you replaced the cat converter. you said "check oil level, check for exhaust leaks, check O2 sensors". You found exhaust leak but still decided to replace it anyway. What was the reason, besides it was still under warranty?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks for the reply 🙂 that was unfortunate, given the prise of the converter. Anyway learned something about the behaviour of the O² sensors which will help me diagnose my p219E error code. Cheers.
My mechanic was quoted $7,000 For a new subaru Catalytic converter for my 2005 Forester. Of course this doesn’t include service and Labor. Any info is really welcomed Is this really inflated or is it real ??? The car has 74,000. Miles on it and I wanted to keep it?
Prices have definitely gone up but that seems like a lot. I would suggest calling the dealer and asking them directly what the price of a converter would cost. Most shops will double the price of parts they get for resale. This helps cover any possible warranty claims associated with the repair. So a $7,000 dollar part may only actually cost $3,500. I'm not sure how the shop you took it to operates though. Some places will allow you to bring your own parts with the caveat that you won't get a warranty with it. But if it saves you $3,500 then it might be worth it. Just some thoughts.
You can clean it with a citric acid soluton. I did mine and for less then $200 for new o2 sensors and gaskets mine is fixed. I have drove 15k miles over 1.5 years and no p0420 code. Look up the process and save yourself some money.
Probably will just put in a rear o2 bypass and make sure it is not clogged up. Not paying 1700 + labor to fix this. My state doesn't even have an emissions check
@@orionstar3310 Just google rear o2 bypass. There is multiple ways. You can use a resistor and capacitor and make a low pass filter. Another approach is to use spark plug non fowlers to keep the o2 sensor raise up and out of the exhaust tube a bit more.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotivewill the VIN denote California emissions vehicle? Bought mine used, turns out it's from Virginia, i think. Not sure where before that.
Nice work. Thorough. Those who have this same issue (& I mean exact same issue) appreciate the long outro and the notes you add as you go- this is what convinces people (the likes on this post are high quality likes- from many who themselves wrestle with a Subaru). Instructive and reassuring. Excellent job. Like&Subscribe Follow rom us, Thank you)
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
EXCELLENT, I've been researching the P0420 for two days now. Your explanation and demonstration of the Temp, Pre and Post sensor readings really helped to bring all this together. Plus the added feed back from the muffler shop is good, but, not sure if I'm ready to spend $$$ on an OEM, darn.
I just had my 2011 at the dealership for cats... quote came back at $9,110.50. I almost lit the car on fire. Went with Walker, so far the readings have been good. Fingers 🤞
Yeah it's ridiculous how expensive these cats are! When I went to the parts store for the warranty exchange they said walker discontinued the part number I had bought before. they have a new number so hopefully it's an updated part and and they fixed whatever was the issue before.
I'm about to order a walker. How is yours holding up so far?
@@enrique4737 so far so good. Put about 40k on it since the new cats went on
@@kylekarsten721 that's awesome I just did mine and the walker one didn't have the threaded holes and I struggle to find some but I finally just went with M10s x 1.25 wish they were longer but they work.
@@enrique4737aqaq
And if your car is a PZEV, you need a super special CARB compliant cat, which will be even more expensive. If you install a regular cat on a PZEV, it will still throw a CEL, disable the cruise control, etc.
I was able to clean mine using citric acid. It even took the rust off the pipe. 15k miles and 1.5 years later no p0420 code.
I'm glad I watched your video. I just had my cat replaced on a 09 subaru legacy. Its only been 7 months and my check engine light is coming on again. Got the code read and its throwing the P0420. I am getting tired of fixing the car and think the previous owner's mechanic was a super bad one. It was supposed to have had the heads redone, but they put copper silicone on those causing the heads to go again less than one week after getting the car. $3,000 dollars later, it ran again. Then last month we changed the brakes, took off the rotors to find that the OEM rotors were BIGGER than the ones on there. Thankfully with new calipers the new rotors worked, but had to replace brakes, rotors, and calipers all the way around the car. I will need to think about how much more money I want to throw into this car as it only has 150,000 miles on it, but has already cost me over 7,000 between buying and fixing. It only throws the code periodically right now, but still runs smoothly even when the check engine light is on. I just hate that I can't use cruise control when the stupid check engine light is on.
Very good video! Way to have confidence in your diagnosis to not only call a bad part on the replacement but also to convince the customer to spend $$$ on an OEM converter.
Amazing and wonderful details ,Thanks for taking your time and sharing to the broader Subaru owners
Sometimes aftermarket products don't cut it... $1,700 for a freaking Catalytic Converter that's a crying shame...Well done
Yeah their 3 times what an aftermarket converter would be! But doing this for work I'm going to recommend OEM on these from now on. I don't want to be doing warranty work shortly down the road. This one was frustrating 😕
im trying strategize for our 2009 outback with this problem. our shop explained they have had the same experience you did and they only use the subaru parts also... I really want a used cat, but i’m told it is illegal to sell them.
So the cat was the P0420 code, but what was causing the rough running?
Thank you for this informative video! But jeez, as if the oil burning and head gasket issues aren't bad enough, throw super expensive converters into the equation. On our 07 Forester, we'll just keep resetting the check engine light until we get a new (non Subaru) car.
Our 2008 outback, factory converter is 3800, Orange county California. Just the front converter. Thank God I've done all the work myself. video! Thanks for taking your time to post the video. God bless you in health and wealth. Subscribed to the channel. God bless you all working on these expensive subaru's. First and last subaru we'll own. I also want to burn this puppy down. Lol!
Glad this was helpful 👍. Welcome to the channel.
Thank you. Excellent presentation. I have a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek. OEM cat replaced by Subaru dealer at 42,000. Now at 67,000 the P0420 has shown up again today. Replacing both sensors first to see if that's it. If this 2nd OEM cat is bad, I'm replacing it with a Toyota. The key to all this started at 11:50 - "One thing to keep in mind....." this summed up the whole Subaru cat issue in a nutshell.
My 2017 is throwing 520 codes yrs super expensive dealer only part how long it take to change any special tools ?
@MICKIN310 Turns out a clogged fuel injector caused my Code. Insane. Rough idle caused by fuel injector dripping rather than a mist, not a need for a new cat or sensor. I sold my Crosstrek and bought a RAV. I simply cannot waste time and money on crap like this...as much as I loved the Crosstrek I scrapped the rig.
Best video on this topic I've seen.
Thanks Mr. Cucumber 👍. It's crazy how expensive the dealer converters are. Good thing this vehicle only has one!
Im about to just straight pipe mine if the replacement i ordered failed 😂 i didnt buy the OE spec converter but at this point any new converter is better than the box of rocks i got bolted on now
Your video gave me more knowledge on this subject, thanks.
Subaru OEM "pretzel" converters are up to $2200 just for the part, incredible.
I have the same experience with my 2009 2.5i 135K Subaru Legacy. I bought it used with 135K miles. I use an OBDII device that connects to my phone.
Replaced both O2 sensors, cat (Walker/Rockauto), spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, corrected exhaust leaks, added an oil catch can, changed the timing belt and pulleys.
The car runs well and now, there are no codes, except for P0420.
After the cat was replaced, passed CA smog, it ran for about 3500 miles before P0420 returned. Since then, the code will return every 180 to 500 miles after clearing the code. I have also tried Cataclean (twice), and removing the cat and cleaning with detergent like so many other youtube videos.
The federal exchange warranty is useless. In my case, I would have to purchase another cat, send back the faulty one ($$ shipping), and IF Walker determines that the cat was bad, they will reimburse. Why would I want to purchase another cat ($700) that is likely to fail in less than 4k miles just to have Walker say it was poisened by my high mileage engine? (I don't expect them to say it was a faulty cat, eventhough it looks like an OEM cat will work much better).
So, now I am at 174K miles 16 months later. From your video, I am nearly convinced that if I want the P0420 code to go away, I will have to purchase a new OEM cat and install it before getting it smogged in 4 months when registration comes due.
I really enjoy the way this car drives. Its even enjoyable to work on. I just wish it was illegal for aftermarket parts manufacturers to sell products that do not meet OEM specs and to seduce buyers with meaningless warrantees.
"Big lesson learned" indeed...great video!
I did all the same for my 09 legacy. Im still battling the 420 code and pass my inspection. Although i do have bad oil consumption with the engine to boot. Im trying the apark plug fowler juat so I can pass inspection till I can get the OEM cat and rip out the engine ugh
So what did you do with the car?
Have you tried a o2 sensor spacer? That's tricks the computer and the cat. I hear good things. Trying it this weekend as I have the 420 with my Impreza. Lucky I live in Ontario where we don't do smog tests tho. I just want my cruise control back lol
i really like the way this was presented 💕❤
Hey thanks Jenna 👍
Thanks, saved us getting a used Outback w/bad Cat...
Part f the issue with some of the aftermarket converter/manifolds, is the FLOW, if you will, they restrict flow to and or from the converter, causing the sensors to read and throw codes.
When it comes to spark plugs, does it matter too if you get it from your brand (my case) Hyundai OEM compared to auto zone spark plugs? I totally agree with aftermarket cause and effect ....thanks much
You said the aftermarket lasted 2 years. You know how many miles it lasted for that customer? Also, what was the brand of the second aftermarket converter you tried that did not work out for you before settling on the genuine Subaru one? Thanks.
ive had nothing but problems out of WALKER everything from bad ' IAC's to o2 sensors cats
New subscriber,great video,thank you!!
Thanks for the video. My walker cat cracked on the pipe before going into the collector. Had that welded and im still getting the 420 code. Im assuming the bad walker cat and oil consumption on the engine is causing these issues. Im trying the spark plug fowler to just get rid of the code for the time being to pass inspection until I can rip the engine out and buy an OEM cat.
Subaru's new moto " You'll love it till you hate it!"
Does anyone know if a MagnaFlow OEM cat is as good as a Subaru? Or will it be another walker issue? The MagnaFlow is cheaper than subaru but twice the cost of a walker.
Super informative thank you.
Great input! Thanks for the advice you gave us!
interesting information. thank you
so there no reason to buy a aftermaket cat? so cat delete it is
Yea you thanks for explain why parts cost more for quality. I noticed the larger chambers before and after the cat. Cool to see… it would be nice if we had a service for them. Like how to clean them that’s worth the effort. I herd lacquer thinner 1gal:1/2tank and 150 drive Miles. Any ideas?
Very good description, demonstration and explanation.
Now I'm just concerned about how expensive tomorrow's exhaust workshop bill could be... (identical car, in Straya)
😬
You are in the 760 in vista? You're not far from me. Thank you for the fed regulation info and I think I'm going to ask that my mechanic go oem on the converter I need for my Impreza. For lambda because you were using your device as an oscilloscope you were talking about the distance peak to peak, correct??
Hello
Great video
Have subaru crisstreck first gen. Have same readings on oxigen sensor BUT...i also hace water coming out of exaust...is that head gasket?...or converter? Thank you sonmuch
Some water in the exhaust is a normal byproduct of the catalyst process. You'll notice drips of water out of the tailpipe or a weep hole in your muffler.
Very good video, do you think the aftermarket one would las ta few thousand miles at least? Or would it have caused a check engine light right away because of the efficiency.
The first one lasted 2 years. The second one was junk out of the box. That one would have set a code once the converter monitor was completed.
this is actually good. you got a new sub!
Hey thanks!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive :)
How often did the customer drive and what was the av drive time? Most cars suffer from under use and short trips. Not absolving Subaru from its issues but under use is just as bad as hard use
great job, thanks
Thank you very helpful
Can someone get all those readings with a computer like yours? On a smartphone with something plugged in under the dash?
What diagnosis device are you using? How you get the results on your phone?
I'm using the Launch X431. There are a good number of options out there for using your phone. The only one I've had experience with is Blue Driver. You just need a tool that can read and graph live engine data with a good refresh rate.
I changed out my front cat with an ap eastern. Ran amazing for 35 seconds. Now running like crap again. Can’t accelerate and shaking back and forth.
Midas says it’s the rear cat too. What do you think?
It could be the rear cat. A plugged exhaust will make a car run horrible and sometimes make them not run at all. What you can do is disconnect the exhaust behind the front cat and see if it runs better. If it does then reconnect the exhaust and unbolt it behind the rear cat and see if it acts up again.
Excellent tutorial:}
So if the exaust cant get through the converters then where did it go?
My p0420 seems to be caused by a small exhaust leak and a bad o2 sensor wire
I’m having to replace mine any special tools needed ? How long it take you ?
You just need an oxygen sensor socket. Other than that regular hand tools should work (if not too rusty). It takes about 1-2 hours if everything comes off smoothly 👍
What about the rear converter ? How to diagnose which one has failed ?
The rear converter is not monitored by the engine computer. If you have a converter code it's for the front converter.
Hey, just trying to diagnose a Cat issue right now on a 2009 outback. I ran some tests with my OBDII reader and the B1S1 reading sticks around 0.99 lambda under load (2000rpm) or at idle, but the reading i get for O2S B1S2 is around 0.865 to 0.9(V) under load and fluctuates a lot at idle. That second number seems high to me, but I don't have any fluctuations according to the graphs I'm seeing . The CEL only kicks on after I drive the thing for around 10-30 minutes at around 2500rpm, and shows P0420, and it doesn't do it every time it seems pretty random. Just trying to figure out what best course of action is and what is most likely cause in your opinion. Any input is appreciated. Was gonna run some cataclean through it tomorrow to see if that helped.
Under acceleration the engine will be richer than normal so the rear o2 will read a higher voltage. When you let off the throttle and are decelerating the fuel injectors should shut off causing the engine to be lean and the rear o2 voltage will be low. That's normal operation. The car should be checked at idle and a steady cruise on relatively flat ground. The rear o2 should be steady above 0.5 volts (typically 0.6-0.7). The 0.99 lambda is good. Before replacing a cat make sure you're not burning oil and or coolant. Eventually this will kill your new cat and you're stuck giving them your second child for a new converter.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thank you, your input is much appreciated. I think I've narrowed it down.
@@TmanT321 What ever came of this? I'm in the same boat with a 2012 Outback. My B1S2 sensor is all over the place when at idle, but is steady and >.8 when under load. I suspect a pinhole exhaust leak, but I haven't been able to find it. CEL is currently off, but has come on twice this year.
Think I’m on this road. Wish your shop was closer. I’d just let you deal with it.
I have a 2013 crosstrek with 138k miles. Just got code p0420 can you replace the cst with a used one? I live in Cali so i cant just buy an aftermarket one.
The sale of used converters is illegal in most if not all states.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive that's so stupid. So they want us to spend thousands on new ones
was it due to the DENSOs?
may cat was clogged also the up-pipe and they wanted 4k to change it
There is a second cat under the heat shield that fails and plugs the exhaust
what was both cost
Didn't get it, why you replaced the cat converter. you said "check oil level, check for exhaust leaks, check O2 sensors". You found exhaust leak but still decided to replace it anyway. What was the reason, besides it was still under warranty?
Good question. Apparently I didn't film it but new gaskets were installed and the converter was still not able to keep up with the demand.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks for the reply 🙂 that was unfortunate, given the prise of the converter. Anyway learned something about the behaviour of the O² sensors which will help me diagnose my p219E error code. Cheers.
New Sub here. Excellent video👍
Thanks Bork welcome to the channel 👍
That cat is now worth more than the car.
My mechanic was quoted $7,000
For a new subaru Catalytic converter for my 2005 Forester. Of course this doesn’t include service and Labor.
Any info is really welcomed
Is this really inflated or is it real ???
The car has 74,000. Miles on it
and I wanted to keep it?
Prices have definitely gone up but that seems like a lot. I would suggest calling the dealer and asking them directly what the price of a converter would cost. Most shops will double the price of parts they get for resale. This helps cover any possible warranty claims associated with the repair. So a $7,000 dollar part may only actually cost $3,500. I'm not sure how the shop you took it to operates though. Some places will allow you to bring your own parts with the caveat that you won't get a warranty with it. But if it saves you $3,500 then it might be worth it. Just some thoughts.
You can clean it with a citric acid soluton. I did mine and for less then $200 for new o2 sensors and gaskets mine is fixed. I have drove 15k miles over 1.5 years and no p0420 code. Look up the process and save yourself some money.
Probably will just put in a rear o2 bypass and make sure it is not clogged up. Not paying 1700 + labor to fix this. My state doesn't even have an emissions check
How do you do that ?
@@orionstar3310 Just google rear o2 bypass. There is multiple ways. You can use a resistor and capacitor and make a low pass filter. Another approach is to use spark plug non fowlers to keep the o2 sensor raise up and out of the exhaust tube a bit more.
Some subies require a California cat or a EPA cat.
True. Depending on the state you live in. If you get the converter from the dealer it should automatically be the converter you need.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotivewill the VIN denote California emissions vehicle? Bought mine used, turns out it's from Virginia, i think. Not sure where before that.
@@deoxribonucleicacid8746 I believe so. You can contact a Subaru dealer and ask the parts department if your VIN is California or Federal emissions 👍
Nice work. Thorough. Those who have this same issue (& I mean exact same issue) appreciate the long outro and the notes you add as you go- this is what convinces people (the likes on this post are high quality likes- from many who themselves wrestle with a Subaru). Instructive and reassuring. Excellent job. Like&Subscribe
Follow rom us, Thank you)
Hey thanks! I appreciate your comment. Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Yeah just wrapped up a manivert on a sport trex what a pain in the ass solid pipe 600 dollars for a carb compliant piece of shit