Great tutorial Tom! One of the valves broke off on my GCV 160 and I replaced both. I followed your instructions exactly and now my pressure washer is running awesome!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
All this fucking work just to replace a valve. Would be really mice if honda could make the cylinder and head itself a removable part, like most other engines. Sheesh
Excellent video. While attempting unstick a sticking intake valve (with valve OHV cover off) I broke the tip of the intake valve. I decided to chance replacing both valves (IN&OUT) but wasn't sure what I was up against. (Both valves purchased from "Parts Tree"; $23 with shipping). The video explained all that I needed to know, succinctly. Thanx to Tom Lang. (Caveat: I do have engine repair experience, but appreciated Tom pointing out the places where you can "screw up.") F. Rakoczy
Those engines are a pain.Honda designed them as a throw away,therefore no cylinder head so you have to totally dismantle them from the bottom to do anything.
nice video overall...but..as another view pointed out...it looks like the new valve needs to be lapped to ensure proper seal--the old valve looks like it has a pronounced lip..the new valve simply has an angled slope...needs to be lapped or it will burn out and you won't have proper compression.
Looks like at 7:50 the valve guide is way out and needs pressing back into the head so you don't break your new rocker arm. This is really common with these engines on the exhaust side especially when running the engine too hot.
Mine is the same way and i was wondering if it was up or if thats how it was supposed to be. The intake looks like part of the block but tbe exhaust seems to have a retaining ring on it and i noticed it is higher up like his. Wasnt sure if its supposed yo be like that or not the spring and around it is also cover in hard black burnt oil or somthing so im wondering if that is the problem ? Thats why im watching this video trying to see if anyone else has this build uo problem and why it is happening?
Working on a neighbor's unit now. The valve guide protruded out until it stopped the rocker arm and broke it. Going to try the high temp Loctite fix on the valve guide and hope for the best. How did you address the issue with yours?
never run sand paper through the valve guides and you should of lap that valve in first and whats going on with the marks on the flywheel. looks like the mag was dragging on it at one time. I'm starting to wonder if your valve was really bent?
I have one and It started right up yesterday then kept stalling. I also noticed that when I pull the string I don't feel the push back from the compression stroke. I'm thinking it lost compression. I even put some gas on the plug and tried it it did nothing except a few sputters. I know it has spark. the exhaust valve has alot of clearance even after adjusting the bolt. I think the exhaust valve is not closing all the way. where can you get parts for these engines?
Low on oil and exhaust valve will stick in place and kill engine Guide needs replacement and engine rebuild 😢😢😢 Keep them level when checking oil levels on all engines folks 😊
the valve seat has come out and that is why you think its a bent valve mine actually broke the rocker arm the first time then the timing belt the second time [it came out again] I am working on it now and I think I am going to pin it in this time
Did you ever get a fix figured out. Working on one for my neighbor now with the exhaust valve guide pushed out. I believe I am going to try high temp Loctite, but I was curious if you had a better plan. I am doing it as favor, so I am not splitting the case. If it goes that far, I am telling him to junk it.
@@ericpigg2689 same issue with mine broke exhaust rocker and adjustment nut fell into engine so had to disassemble entire engine, used green loctite worked for about three cuts the guide came back out and broke cam again im gonna try a intake valve seat in and see if that works this time . Locking at his engine his guide is sticking out and gonna be A issue soon
Great video Tom! I just purchased a pressure washer with what i thought was a seized GCV160. I removed the spark plug and sprayed some penetrant spray in there. I was able to finally turn the engine via the main crankshaft/flywheel bolt, however it does not turn completely over. I looked inside the spark plug hole and i can see a piece of a broken valve sitting on top of the piston. Would you recommend continuing on with this repair at the moment? Where did you purchased your valves? Thanks
Hey Barry, been looking a a few posts. Could be a few things. Look at post: www.google.com/amp/s/www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/help-briggs-stratton-popping-or-backfiring-through-the-carburetor.5204/%3famp=1
I honestly this engine seems to be very simple and easy to work on you should not be intimidated by this job. Id say most complicated part about this engine is the carburetor lines and the only reason i say that is because mine has alot of gas lines and i can see their dry rotted so if i need to clean the carb i already know im gonna spit every line and have to buy new ones. Really cool little engine bought mine for 10$ at the worlds longest yardsale was on a broken pressure washer slapped it on my go kart and loving it. Does seem to over heat quickly but i think i have some type of exhaust valve problem too but still runs like a champ until it gets hot then it starts to blow smoke until i let it cool down before continuing to thrash it.
It's very inconvenient to disassemble the entire engine to clean a exauhst valve. I won't be buying any honda parts for my gcv 160 it will probably go the the correct resting yard.
Thank you for the comprehensive video, but I could not believe this was such a ridiculously long process just to replace a valve. I will never buy one of these mowers again. what idiot designed this. I could replace a valve in a ls v8 with less effort.
Yea, most people just buy new mower. It is great experience if you have the knowledge & can R&R valve. I have auto degree so I kinda challenged myself to see if I could do it. Assembling the 10 separate video clips was another challenge.
Thanks Russell. Oh yeah I reassembled and forgot to put a new timing belt on and I think that’s where I ran into problems so I have to take it apart and redo it again.
When I bought my mower I thought OHV was great but integrated head/cylinder and a timing belt? What a cheapo crap design. When my GCV160 gives me any fits past the carb the mower is going in the trash.
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Great tutorial Tom! One of the valves broke off on my GCV 160 and I replaced both. I followed your instructions exactly and now my pressure washer is running awesome!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
Same, found the valve in the cylinder.
All this fucking work just to replace a valve. Would be really mice if honda could make the cylinder and head itself a removable part, like most other engines. Sheesh
Hey, your tutorial worked for me and I've never repaired an engine. 40$ in parts instead of 400$+ for a new mower. Thank you!
Excellent video. While attempting unstick a sticking intake valve (with valve OHV cover off) I broke the tip of the intake valve. I decided to chance replacing both valves (IN&OUT) but wasn't sure what I was up against. (Both valves purchased from "Parts Tree"; $23 with shipping). The video explained all that I needed to know, succinctly. Thanx to Tom Lang. (Caveat: I do have engine repair experience, but appreciated Tom pointing out the places where you can "screw up.")
F. Rakoczy
Thanks for this video! I just replaced the upper half of my buddies 190. Helped me figure out a couple little details.
You didn't show the most important part...How did you put the piston back in. There is no room for ring compression tool.
Don’t need it , use hose screw clamp
Those engines are a pain.Honda designed them as a throw away,therefore no cylinder head so you have to totally dismantle them from the bottom to do anything.
Yeah what a cheap way to make a buck. Force average maintenance to require a whole breakdown. My 2000 Honda Xr100 is easier to work on than this.
nice video overall...but..as another view pointed out...it looks like the new valve needs to be lapped to ensure proper seal--the old valve looks like it has a pronounced lip..the new valve simply has an angled slope...needs to be lapped or it will burn out and you won't have proper compression.
Looks like at 7:50 the valve guide is way out and needs pressing back into the head so you don't break your new rocker arm. This is really common with these engines on the exhaust side especially when running the engine too hot.
Mine is the same way and i was wondering if it was up or if thats how it was supposed to be. The intake looks like part of the block but tbe exhaust seems to have a retaining ring on it and i noticed it is higher up like his. Wasnt sure if its supposed yo be like that or not the spring and around it is also cover in hard black burnt oil or somthing so im wondering if that is the problem ? Thats why im watching this video trying to see if anyone else has this build uo problem and why it is happening?
Working on a neighbor's unit now. The valve guide protruded out until it stopped the rocker arm and broke it. Going to try the high temp Loctite fix on the valve guide and hope for the best. How did you address the issue with yours?
The valve lash is .006 and .008. In mm it's .15 and .20
outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/honda_valve_gaps.asp
I was thinking that was way too much. I do .006 and .008
So did the damn thing start up?? I hate when y’all make these videos and don’t show STARTUP
Yes. It started right up. But I realized after assembling that I didn’t install my new timing belt & used the old one. So I have to disassemble again.
Tom,at least second time around will be easier.Good video.
never run sand paper through the valve guides and you should of lap that valve in first and whats going on with the marks on the flywheel. looks like the mag was dragging on it at one time. I'm starting to wonder if your valve was really bent?
marks on the flywheel are from the brake
Supposed to be .008 exhaust .006 intake
@@jackwilliam2226 The manual lists the gap in mm, do the conversion if you need to.
How did you hold the valve to put the spring and retainer back on?
I have one and It started right up yesterday then kept stalling. I also noticed that when I pull the string I don't feel the push back from the compression stroke. I'm thinking it lost compression. I even put some gas on the plug and tried it it did nothing except a few sputters. I know it has spark. the exhaust valve has alot of clearance even after adjusting the bolt. I think the exhaust valve is not closing all the way. where can you get parts for these engines?
cant believe you didn't lap the valve into the seat. im waiting for it to burn due to leakage..
I have a Honda Harmony 2 with a bent Crank. I have decided the mower is worth replacing the crankshaft. My next trick us finding the time.
The regulation of the valves you mention in the video, is also valid for a husqvarna lawnmower model LC 356 AWD?
thanks for the video, it is usefull
Does it say 189cm on the block ? I can't find any info on my engine I think it's a gcv190 but idk
Well done
Low on oil and exhaust valve will stick in place and kill engine
Guide needs replacement and engine rebuild 😢😢😢
Keep them level when checking oil levels on all engines folks 😊
the valve seat has come out and that is why you think its a bent valve mine actually broke the rocker arm the first time then the timing belt the second time [it came out again] I am working on it now and I think I am going to pin it in this time
Did you ever get a fix figured out. Working on one for my neighbor now with the exhaust valve guide pushed out. I believe I am going to try high temp Loctite, but I was curious if you had a better plan. I am doing it as favor, so I am not splitting the case. If it goes that far, I am telling him to junk it.
@@ericpigg2689 same issue with mine broke exhaust rocker and adjustment nut fell into engine so had to disassemble entire engine, used green loctite worked for about three cuts the guide came back out and broke cam again im gonna try a intake valve seat in and see if that works this time . Locking at his engine his guide is sticking out and gonna be A issue soon
Great video Tom! I just purchased a pressure washer with what i thought was a seized GCV160. I removed the spark plug and sprayed some penetrant spray in there. I was able to finally turn the engine via the main crankshaft/flywheel bolt, however it does not turn completely over. I looked inside the spark plug hole and i can see a piece of a broken valve sitting on top of the piston. Would you recommend continuing on with this repair at the moment? Where did you purchased your valves? Thanks
can't believe he split the crankcase before removing the flywheel
So, you do not need to seat the valve seat?
I used tooth paste to seat the valve if I remember correctly.
Toothpaste????
I take the flywheel off while engine is still mounted to deck.
A oil slinger and a diper at the same? Is that necadary
My 3 year old honda backfired when i cut it off. It had a little knock and then it would not start. I am guessing i bent a valve? ?
Hey Barry, been looking a a few posts. Could be a few things. Look at post:
www.google.com/amp/s/www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/help-briggs-stratton-popping-or-backfiring-through-the-carburetor.5204/%3famp=1
@@tomlang7692 thanks i will look but it has no compression
Yes sounds like leaking past the valve seal. I think Autozone lends crankshaft puller if u are disassembling.
Where can I get new valves ?
Great !
Hi Mr! Great video! The belt are working in oil?
Yep the belt is covered in oil
Does the head not come off of this engine???
nope
@@shannonsizemore438 well I hope I never have any problems with the valves sticking on mine, I hear that's a common problem
I honestly this engine seems to be very simple and easy to work on you should not be intimidated by this job. Id say most complicated part about this engine is the carburetor lines and the only reason i say that is because mine has alot of gas lines and i can see their dry rotted so if i need to clean the carb i already know im gonna spit every line and have to buy new ones. Really cool little engine bought mine for 10$ at the worlds longest yardsale was on a broken pressure washer slapped it on my go kart and loving it. Does seem to over heat quickly but i think i have some type of exhaust valve problem too but still runs like a champ until it gets hot then it starts to blow smoke until i let it cool down before continuing to thrash it.
sorry charly Intake 6 exhaust 8
I believe your valve clearances are wrong.
It's very inconvenient to disassemble the entire engine to clean a exauhst valve. I won't be buying any honda parts for my gcv 160 it will probably go the the correct resting yard.
you could have gone to a local shop to WEld back the splash rod $10 bucks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Have better lighting system
It would be cheaper just to buy a new engine who would pay that much labor!!!
1235.00 in labor for a 300 dollar engine
Same problem is it with it in parts care less about my time
Thank you for the comprehensive video, but I could not believe this was such a ridiculously long process just to replace a valve. I will never buy one of these mowers again. what idiot designed this. I could replace a valve in a ls v8 with less effort.
Yea, most people just buy new mower. It is great experience if you have the knowledge & can R&R valve. I have auto degree so I kinda challenged myself to see if I could do it. Assembling the 10 separate video clips was another challenge.
Thanks Russell. Oh yeah I reassembled and forgot to put a new timing belt on and I think that’s where I ran into problems so I have to take it apart and redo it again.
When I bought my mower I thought OHV was great but integrated head/cylinder and a timing belt? What a cheapo crap design. When my GCV160 gives me any fits past the carb the mower is going in the trash.
too much talk and no work
Idiotic engine design. Timing belt sitting submerged in motor oil.
i hit my oil dipper and snapped it off ,, i ended up making my own dippper out of metal that bolted on with the connecting rod bolts