Jet Boat AMPHIBIAN Water Test!
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- Опубликовано: 24 ноя 2024
- First jet unit test for the amphibious boat!
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Ive been waiting for what feels like forever for another video
Yeah sorry this on ate up a lot of time I really wanted to get the water test in this video
This is great. I need something like this. Love the NZ comedy.
It is going to be really cool when I finish it , thanks
definitely the driest and most fun antipodean colony.. hah.. have some good NZ mates in UK.. :)
You don't think the big tires are keeping you from planning
Far out . Thats such a cool idea . Keep pumpin out the content
Absolute insanity. I freaking love it.
Puttin on the ritz! Have not heard that song in so long!!!
Haha bit of a different start to a video for me
Check your wear ring. if its bad your pump wont build any thrust.
Man I read that wrong.
Dude!…you are a freaking guardian of the world of ingenuity!…no holds barred with you!..love this channel!
definitely successful mate more mods will see it flying great job hope ya well bro cheers
another banger video dk,keep them coming.. love the kiwi ingenuity!
You might want to look at your wear ring for the jet pump because if it is constantly spinning and not in the water it will wear down and instead of pushing water backwards it would just spin it in circles inside the pump
this is the problem right here. 11k is more than enough in 6th. That should be about 9,200 Rpm on the output shaft
Awesome video dk. You might want to replace the wear ring on the jet unit. would certainly help.
Yes the tolerance has to be pretty tight , I think I will get the gearing right first then start trying to improve efficiency 👍
Sounds like my ski when the pump shoe failed. Cavitation like crazy. Well done!!
That worked relly well i think..
mabe you could try a Linear Actuator for the front wheel lift as they come in all lengths and torques, the ones im using for my ebike camper have around 40kg of push and pull and you can get stronger ones..plus they have auto cut off at full extension and full retract..im using them for the camper slides and they work well.
Yeah they would work just have to get the angle right, I almost got a company to sponsor me some but it fell through haha
That throttle peddle is actually genius if it hold us. Well done
How you produce such excellent quality content so quickly is beyond me. We could build some wild stuff together but I could learn a lot from you I think.
It is a bit of hard work but I enjoy it ! And yes it would be great to have someone helping me
Nice test mate. I think it's your rear wheels dragging in the water. A skid/deflector plate just before them might solve some issues of the dragging. Thank you for sharing your crazy inventions. I love it.
They are definitely dragging a little at low speed but on plane they are above the planing surface so drag should be very minimal. I do have plates in front of the wheels maybe I could angle them down a little to help, thanks for the comment
honestly the wheels probably act a little like float pods
you are beyond talented in even your edits and humor, much love from saint pete Florida, your distant NZ cousins
Haha thanks Florida does sound awesome
Bloody legend mate! Keep up the great work. Love your ingenuity!
Great stuff Daniel... it is slowly coming together with all the mods and issues that come up. I am sure you will work them all out and this will end up being great fun.
I was so excited to see this video posted. I think you should make the large gear going to the rear diff smaller with a different weld on gocart style hub and sprocket. Then the land speed would be solved.
Also the jet ski the pump came off of probably has a similar rpm to the engine your using. I think the speed and 1 to 1 gear of the engine to pump is perfect. Your issue is either a worn out wear ring on the pump or something else causing cavitation. This thing will get going pretty damn good on land or sea once you make those changes.
Also an old golf cart tire could help with front end stability because it so flat and wide. Good luck I love all your videos man. 👍
The drive off the engine is way less rpm maybe 3000rpm . From the crank to the clutch is a big reduction
@@DktheWelder that cbr should have a final drive in 6th of 1.2. So your output shaft should be at 9,100rpm. The wear ring is always an issue on older jet pumps. Its and easy fix.
@@mastermnd22 yes , someone else has said that but that’s not included the gear reduction on the clutch which is at least 2:1 , but i will also check out the impeller ring👍
@@DktheWelder are you speaking about something you did custom? Maybe I missed it, but it looks like the cbr output is going straight into the jet drive.
I like this skilled kind of “sketchy”
Best of both worlds.
Can also try a smaller nozzle on the jet unit. It would utilize the horse power and cause a higher nozzle speed.
Yes I think a smaller nozzle could help!
I'm pretty sure he has a bad carbon seal on the pump which squirts water into the boat and air into the impeller causing it to cavitate. It is very common on DIY builds if the motor shaft and jetpump alignment are not perfect. The carbon seal will wear very fast on one side spraying water everywhere and then sucking air into the pump.
@DktheWelder also a bay of plenty local, love your content.
Seeing this thing finally get up on plane is awesome, definitely coming together!
It only just happened! Hopefully once I speed the pump up it will be better
you should try whippers motor with window switches to move the rear axle, pretty powerful and reliable, keep up , nice work
Remember Mike Finnegan a while back talking about tuning his drag racing jet pumps. The cavitation could just need a tuned edge cutting more water into the intake, type thing.
Or plugging that bung wouldn't have caused too much pressure in that section? Like if the pump is only meant to pump out that hole and not be blocked off? Just a thought.
But yea, Finnegan talks about shaping his intake a bit here. There's another where he adjusts the height of his knife scoop but it's in the middle of a random build vid somewhere. Cheers: ruclips.net/video/elrXCKV3U9Q/видео.html
It would be a lot of trial and error to get it just right , I really just need it working well enough to plane with two people but all advice helps thank you for your comment
@@DktheWelder I think you might have something that should look obvious to cause that much cavitation; chewed up prop, obstruction/debris stuck in intake or wrapped around impeller shaft, poor intake design (the water should flow cleanly and freely into the pump cavity... smooth, gentle curves, etc).
Here's the gear chart ratio for _a_ CBR600 (not sure it is this specific one you got, but it's a start):
1st gear -- 2.750 (33/12)
2nd gear -- 2.000 (32/16)
3rd gear -- 1.667 (30/18)
4th gear -- 1.444 (26/18)
5th gear -- 1.304 (30/23)
6th gear -- 1.208 (29/24)
And if my math is correct, at 11k RPM the output goes at about 9100, plenty for an impeller. So i doubt RPM is the issue. While it's hard to tell on video, it looks like there is a massive gap between the housing and the impeller. That is generally bad since it prevents the impeller from pumping water efficiently. Usually there is a plastic ring in there that closes that gap to just over "self-clearance". So I _think_ that's where your lack of power on water is coming from.
Thanks for that , but that’s not included the gear ratio on the clutch basket which is probably 5 to 1 . I will measure what is going on soon . Thanks for the info I appreciate it
Great video. I would suggest linear actuators to lift the wheels, they are cheap from Ali, and you can get virtually any power level from 50kg to over a ton, even at 12V and they have automatic end stops.
I just ordered some IP66 sealed versions that do 500kg at 5mm/s for a project.
Cheers, and keep it up, it's an interesting project.
I might invest in some of those I seem to always need them! 12v be good
I feel like its Cavitation, cause when you got it going in the shallows it was moving at a decent speed at reasonable revs, and all of the other jetboat builds Ive watched recently are direct drive, also my own jetski is direct drive. They all seem to move just fine at around 5k.
They might have a pump/impeller better suited/calculated for that rpm tho. This is more experimental😁
There is a huge gear reduction from the crank to the clutch before it even gets to the gearbox , it is probably only spinning at 3000rpm . I’m not sure why it would be cavitation maybe impeller is worn?
Yeah I agree, but he's most likely revving too high causing cavitation exasperated by the additional weight of the boat vs the original jetski, better to change impeller, rather than spin even faster by gearing it up
@@offgridas @dkthewelder true true
@@DktheWelderdidn't realise you'd reduced it from the motor, been a while since I watched the original build vid. My old jetski had a worn impeller and it eventually just stopped moving, you can bog the housing for a temp fix
Daniel, what a great design idea for the area that you live. (Shallow water for a long way out etc. I don't know about the Cavitation or speed of impeller but I know that if you choose a different/lighter front wheel concept it will get on the plane better...
Dude this thing is starting to look so sick!!!! super excited to see it get up on the plane... I just watched a video about this its called "jet boat impeller math by idaho viking" that might be worth a look... from what i understood one thing to be careful of is that the hp requirement as you increase RPM is a cubic function... if you double your RPM it will take 8x the grunt, if you triple RPM it will 27x the hp required... so just because it feels like your miles off getting full use out of your power i wouldn't goto like 10x gear reduction right off the bat.
AirPod Pros (2nd Gen), make a WORLD of a difference. Good work!!
Ensure a tight tolerance between the impeller and housing. You’ll lose a ton of pressure and also the gap will create cavitation along the leading edges.
At least you got it up on step with a bit of hydraulic in the shallows :)
Looks heavy, but if you can get the pitch on that impeller matched to RPM/HP it should stay on step
So excited about this. Been working long shifts so I gotta sleep. Still gotta comment since I can't patreon
Your channel is awesome! Please build a geet reactor or thunder storm generator next.
If your geared 1:1 in top gear, then you have more than enough rpms for the jet pump. Most jetskis operate 6-8k rpm. You need a more aggressive impeller, and/or a bigger pump. If you spin it faster, you'll likely just cavitate.
Also, running a jet pump in shallow water like that, sucking up sand and rocks and crabs, is a very effective way to wear out the pump sleeve and impeller. Creating more slippage, cavitation, frustration, etc.
Also the Marine Life doesn't appreciate it. Just saying.
Also, kick ass project! Keep it up!
I was inspired. I was thinking about this video title all day. Only watched the video now that I'm off work. That being said I was curious how I would go about building something like this. A single motor doing both jobs is always a tough build to design.
For upgrading, mind you still won't be winning any races. A larger diameter jet drive would push more water. There is an upper limit to the rpm you can spin it to. Another thing would be to reduce drag. Those tires are like parachutes in the water, even lifted.
Changing the gear ratio in the rear axle would help land speed. Gearing up the motor to drive shaft would help both land and water but would put extra stress on the motor.
Great job overall
Yes that is what I am thinking the engine seems like it has no load on it , I watched another video by home made madness where he put a sport bike motor in a JetSki and geared it up 2 to 1 and it worked well . I will do more research but pretty sure that’s what I will do
Your feathered assistant just walked off without giving any assistance or suggestions on the brake problem😂.
Does this boat have a name?Might I suggest "I'll fix that... later"
I love every single part /sub assembly of this build. There is nothing extra, just what it takes to do the job.
A plate at the rear of the boat aligned with the bottom of the hull. (Think mounted like trim tabs). It would be to keep the water off of the wheels and running gear. That could eliminate a lot of drag as the speed on the water increases.
Yes once on plane the wheels are clear but a bit of water probably still hits them . A bit of trim tab would help I think 👍
Bloody awesome I love it! My jet seems to work best in 5th gear which is obviously an overdrive ratio in the car gearbox, not sure if that's the same with a bike gearbox? Diameter of the pump itself might be a bit small aswell... Bloody good effort though! You should be well happy with that! Makes me want to build another one with retractable wheels 😂
There is no over drive ratio also the is a 2:1 on the clutch so I’m not getting the speed I need . As for the pump It’s what I have so want to get it to work haha
This would be great here in Oregon at the coast where you could drive right down the beach into the ocean with this and go drop some crab traps and fish while they fill up. It's legal to drive on most of the beaches here and and I think this doesn't count as a car so I would just go anywhere with it that people can walk and this can fit. Very convenient, very cool.
It would be good for that , I can’t wait till it’s working properly!
@@DktheWelder saw this guy testing out his punt trailer for his bike - he gets to the water, pulls the wheels off, throws his bike in, sets up his chair, heads out - I was surprised that he could get it down some rapids with as shallow a draft it had.
Would you please get a pair of paddle tires... I guarantee that would make this thing swim faster, at least when using them on the water.
The impeller to pump housing clearance is probably way too big causing cavitation. If the pump is cavitating, you won’t get any thrust
Yeah a few people are saying that ! I hope not because I don’t even know what JetSki the pump is from
What a perfect place to test it out
Think the underwater breaks would rust less if they were discs not drum, given the water can drain
A simple suggestion. The hose under your pedal should be moved. Every time you floor it it rubs against that hose. Over time it will fail.
Mad max boat all hand made love it !!!
Great kiwi number 8 wire engineering
One way to confirm the current drive ratio might be to take out the spark plugs and put something down one spark plug hole to show the rotations so you can count them. Then, in top gear, rotate the output shalf one whole turn.
I actually really like that idea ! Seems like the easiest way to figure it out
I've done something like this a few times to work out what diff ratio I have
Nothing stops you my boy 🔥
The main issue I see of that the jet nozzle exit is mostly below the water level, it needs to be above in order to get max thrust from the jet unit, of its below the water it is pushing against the water instead of the impulse it should be when above the water level
Yes! So many people think it needs to be underwater glad to see you understand. The nozzle is above the waterline once on plane you can see the stream near the end of the video, it is setup similar to ever other jetboat 👍
the impeller could be worn out esp after pumping all that mud. id start there and if still an issue think about diffrent gear ratio. also get the helm opposite the engine. too much weight on one side. you can mount your front wheel on a power outboard bracket.
Larger impeller should make better use of the bikes powerband, and it'll keep you further from cavitation territory.
Definitely look at the carbon seal on the pump input first
Even in top gear the output would be doing less than half engine rpm due to the primary drive gears. The original ski would have had the impeller running at engine rpm, so you need to gear it up. Also the impeller looked pretty rooted in that glimpse we had of it, that wouldn't be helping. Great to see it on the move though!
Yes! The gearing off the crank to the clutch , I will focus on that first then move onto the impeller and wear ring like everyone is saying
The whole time I was watching this, all I could think about was, "The Red and Green Show"if you don't know what that is, look it up 😂
Greetings NZ from USA. I'll be showing this to my dad. 👍
I'll leave one recommendation. Gator Glide or a similar hydrophobic hull coating.
Thanks 👍 , yes there also a lot of dents in the bottom which would be slowing it down
Awesome video mate!
You could use a timing gear set or timing gear and chain from a pushrod engine. That will double the speed plus be plenty strong.
Yes a toothed belt would be good , has to hold about 80hp though
@@DktheWelder You can get a V8 chev SB one for $80 from Segedin. Double chain.
That's really shaping up into a usable vehicle. Can you use a rotating flexi cable drive to raise the front and rear suspensions at the same time? Or linear actuators?
Yeah I think that is a good idea , but those linear actuators are reasonable priced they might work well
You should put a hump in front of the jet and intake to help with flow
**Jet intake**
Runs on an impeller but I like the Impaler on the forward passenger compartment.
There are sharp edges everywhere on it haha, I did have a cap on it but might be changing it anyways
I wonder if it's the shape of the pump inlet chamber that's limiting pressure build up? Did you base your design on the one the impeller came out of? I know the grate can make a difference on a normal jetski, so it could be a factor here too...
I just got given the jet pump as it is I just made the intake based off some photos, hopefully I can get it to work
Bro I love ya builds aye
Nice. Look forward to next video.
11000 rpm going in to a jet drive doesn't sound right. should be about half that, tops. your impeller pitch might be too course, not too fine.
There is a big gear reduction, final drive is probably only 3-4K rpm which is too slow
You've gotta Metal lathe but you don't have a nerlling attachment You need to get 1 instead of welding on there you could have nerve that and bring it up so the bearing fit tight
A knurled piece will only give 0.5mm extra I needed 2mm extra
A Non-racing 2stroke outboard runs at like 6000rpm, and the propeller at half that. Im not a 100 on impeller, but should t be too far off. A gear on the output shaft might not be a bad idea👌
There is a big gear reduction from the crank to the clutch, I think the final drives is maybe only 3-4K rpm and should be 6 -8k rpm . That is my thinking at the moment, I should do some math and figure it out
Check your clearance on your impeller closer the better.
The back of it looks amazing. The front... with that dinky wheel like that is.. mech.. a necessary I understand.. I wonder how it would look with pointy boat nose and two bike wheels on the sides... or maybe.. how about cutting in to the front of the boat a bit and having that wheel more nested inside of the hull. There is something great in that look. Massive nested wheels at the back and strait clean boat nose at the front. And bike wheel somehow spoils it. imho
Yes! It does look dumb with that front wheel hanging out there and the wheel base is too long , I have thought a lot about what you are saying I just not sure how to achieve it yet
Seems like the carbon seal for the jet pump has failed causing water to spray inside the boat and when the carbon seal leaks the impeller will suck up air and cavitate.
This jet unit doesn’t have a carbon seal , just two lip seals and a cavity paced with grease . I see the newer ones are as you say I just saw a video on it actually! Thanks for the comment
Mate u weld like ur using hot glue. I’m envious.
Cheak the wear ring around the impeller in the jetpump the lesser the clearance between the 2 the better it'll perform
Ps jetskis spin pump at 7,000 + rpm
Changing nozzle size on pump will affect torque on jetdrive
Water stream out of pump looks to wide, smaller nozzle more pressure
Sick build
John here from dunedin I have pto over drive unit you can have I'll send it to u if u want its 50% over drive smal alloy rattled for 120hp
Yes that sounds great! Can you message me on Facebook dkthewelder. Or if you don’t have that email dkthewelder@gmail.com
11k..yikes. veyr clever build. I would guess cavitation to the weight. that jet drive came from something tiny.
That is so badass a vehicle that you really can get away fast from the world 👍 if you perfected the exhaust to be less loud 🤯
It is a bit loud , I could maybe point the exhaust down into the water
@@DktheWelder maybe using a expansion pipe like in a dirt bike looks like a lung 👍
Nice. Great job.
Air boat build would be 😎
wyrm gear on both ends for cranking up front and rear wheels
Worm gear? The rear has a jockey wheel spindle, but need to do something for the front that’s a bit easier
I can't think of a single thing that could go wrong.
Awesome work
Farrr you giving me bad ideas bro 😂
I am looking for a new project…
This is a real……labor off free love 😂👍✌️
is the jet unit always in operation?? i recall being told not to run a jet pump dry as without water lubricating the seals it will flog them out in seconds resulting in poor jet performance
I have heard that too ,they usually have a carbon seal but this pump is older and just has a bearing and lip seal packed with grease so I think it can run fine dry
I think having 2 motors is better . Small lawnmower motor for drive on land and jetski small motor for water with watercooling. I think seadoo 650-717 motor or yamaha 701 motor ,or kawasaki 750 motor will do the job. The bike motor is not good. Not for drive, not for jetpump.
It would be a lot better doing what you said but JetSki motors are expensive here because heaps of people build jet boats here there are free JetSki hulls because people are take the running gear out. I am just working with what I have hopefully I can make it work!
It looks like the back wheel is in the way of jet trying to plane the boat.
Chur! Love your vids bro!
Thanks 👍
you know the solution to water let in holes, Just drill a couple water let out holes.
This is cool as!
Impeller needs to spin 6000rpm for full thrust
0:55 AAAAHHHH!!!! [Now I have sand-eyes] 🤣
Haha!
5:25 🤘🤣🤘
7:45 I had a 'boss' that was able to hold onto Stupid Hot metal for way longer than usual..
He'd get someone's attention, then calmly hand it to them or flip it to them, and the second they touched it,
Straight To The Ground.. His famous line was: "Sorry, too Heavy?!" lol
Hell yeah dude! Awesome Job! This thing is a real trip,
and it was a blast sitting in on the build-process! 👍
An ideal boat to evade bay constables, coastal police, harbor patrols, marine/maritime police/patrol, nautical patrols, port police, or river police.
Oh yes there's nothing like welding in Crocs. Are you sure you're not from Florida?
I’m getting a few Florida comments! Maybe I should move there looks like a cool place
@@DktheWelder It is
I know where that is, freedom camped there in the summer
It is such a cool spot!
Cool. 👍👍
you sucking all those rocks and dirt up destroyed the wear ring, it wont work well without that
Love this from a American hillbilly 💪 it's like why isn't this a thing already lol
They got OSHA where you guys are from? XD