Dont know how much time you spent using the BD Pilot vs other ones in the class but I am a fan. After using all of the elderid devices for several years, and the different versions of mammut smart, I like this one the best as a locking atc style for gym climbing at least. In my opinion it pays out rope and lowers the best of the class. You are right that it slips more than others, but I find that it fits a sweet spot for me and I'm confident it will brake in a fall at least in typical conditions (I would prefer my lady friends who are 3/5 my weight use a gri gri). Also, I wouldnt use this outside where there are more variables. A higher friction device is preferable there. The plastic is a bit unnerving at first, but when it comes down to it, an atc works even if that part is broken, and I've never seen any reports of it breaking. Vs the elderid, the open thumb lever makes the device work so much better. With the elderid, if you take your thumb out of it, it is much harder to find again in a hurry if your partner pulls a lot of rope. Vs the mammut, the geometry of the shorter thumb works much better for me. One very annoying thing is that the device is hard to setup vs elderid and mammut. The loop is small and is difficult if you have a mid sized binder. I use the smaller size magnetron and there is not much room to get past the gate. Probably not a problem if you are using a full size biner.
My partner is nearly twice my weight and I noticed how the rope would still slide through if I didn’t have the firm pull down in the break hand end of the rope. That’s unacceptable to me, when there are better that lock/break solidly.
im actually super happy with this purchase as my very first belay device. We used the mammut device at the belay course, and i find the Pilot to be way smoother and easier to use. I feel total in control when lowering people too. the only thing to get used to compare to the mammut was giving slack, but that became muscle memory after the third belay. I really dont feel any need to upgrade to anything else in a long time. Might get the grigri+, but im not in a rush in any shape or form ^^,
I love these types of belay devices, i've been using the Jul 2 for a long time. The plasticly sound that Pilot makes is cringy though!!!! I definitely prefer the all steel Jul 2
I prefer this over the grigri. The only “downside” is that it work different with a different carabiner. The best combination is with a hms steel biner
Dont know how much time you spent using the BD Pilot vs other ones in the class but I am a fan. After using all of the elderid devices for several years, and the different versions of mammut smart, I like this one the best as a locking atc style for gym climbing at least. In my opinion it pays out rope and lowers the best of the class. You are right that it slips more than others, but I find that it fits a sweet spot for me and I'm confident it will brake in a fall at least in typical conditions (I would prefer my lady friends who are 3/5 my weight use a gri gri). Also, I wouldnt use this outside where there are more variables. A higher friction device is preferable there. The plastic is a bit unnerving at first, but when it comes down to it, an atc works even if that part is broken, and I've never seen any reports of it breaking. Vs the elderid, the open thumb lever makes the device work so much better. With the elderid, if you take your thumb out of it, it is much harder to find again in a hurry if your partner pulls a lot of rope. Vs the mammut, the geometry of the shorter thumb works much better for me. One very annoying thing is that the device is hard to setup vs elderid and mammut. The loop is small and is difficult if you have a mid sized binder. I use the smaller size magnetron and there is not much room to get past the gate. Probably not a problem if you are using a full size biner.
My partner is nearly twice my weight and I noticed how the rope would still slide through if I didn’t have the firm pull down in the break hand end of the rope. That’s unacceptable to me, when there are better that lock/break solidly.
im actually super happy with this purchase as my very first belay device. We used the mammut device at the belay course, and i find the Pilot to be way smoother and easier to use. I feel total in control when lowering people too. the only thing to get used to compare to the mammut was giving slack, but that became muscle memory after the third belay. I really dont feel any need to upgrade to anything else in a long time. Might get the grigri+, but im not in a rush in any shape or form ^^,
I love these types of belay devices, i've been using the Jul 2 for a long time. The plasticly sound that Pilot makes is cringy though!!!! I definitely prefer the all steel Jul 2
I prefer this over the grigri. The only “downside” is that it work different with a different carabiner. The best combination is with a hms steel biner
Thanks
Which is better maga jul or this
It has its place ... at the bottom of the list.