small details like that tube welded in at an angle make the finished job look so much better. 1st its for safety and structural integrity of course! but not having a sharp hole just drilled in the side makes it look amazing! Clean idea also. On my street car, I'm swapping to 4 wheel manual brakes. I never thought of actually using the line lock as the dist block instead of trying to reuse the OEM block under the master cyl. I bet that brace and gusset on the end of the M/C mean everything on a sheet metal firewall.
Great videos and awesome workmanship Tim. I can't believe I haven't stumbled across these until now. Any tips on running rigid brake lines through the chassis tubing? I'm assuming the fittings are not installed at the time they are pushed through. Do you push them through towards the one with the angled conduit so it bends slightly as it exits the chassis tube? Then do you leave the rigid lines in place during painting? I've pulled electrical wiring through the chassis by inserting mechanics wire inside of the tubing during fabrication then after paint pull the electrical wiring through with the mechanics wire already in place but I never even thought about rigid lines through the chassis but would like to try it. Any tips would be great. Thanks. Mike
You should show a couple of your Flaring and Tube Bending tools that your shop uses to makes this type of work possible..... Hiding those lines and making clean bends and flares are not easy at this level..... Nice work Tim....
hi, would not the openings in the chassis tubing for the brake lines let moisture into the tubing and cause corrosion of the untreated chassis.? how is this countered or is it insignificant? Here in Australia it is a big problem for unsealed tubes.
Charles I would say where you are there is a significantly higher salt content in the air if you are remotely close to the coast. Here in mid west regions of America it dosent seem to be a big issue as far as corrosion goes. At least it has never hurt any of our chassis to have a small opening in a couple tubes. It’s definitely worth the trade off for the added brake line protection cause I have seen things come off the car during a pass and fuck up a line making you lose brake pressure. Valid point though Charles
I thought mixing aluminum fittings and stainless lines was not acceptable. Are you using them on the fire suppression system because it’s lower psi or because they’re anodized?
the agent nozzles should always be on the middle side of the t fitting perpendicular to the downstream flow of the agent. your current setup is going to push more agent out of the first t, rather than pressurizing the line first with equal flow from all nozzles. you only have 20 lbs of agent at roughly 200 psi which isnt much, especially if your moving and the airflow blows a good amount out most of the engine compartment. also make sure the agent cylinders are designed to be layed on their sides. they have a stem that runs through the center of them. if its not a curved stem that is pointed down upoon instalation, you will not even get half of the agent out of the bottle before you run out of the nitrogen agent propellant.
also, you sould look at capping your nozzles so that grease, dirt, ect gets in them. ive seen what happens when nozzles get clogged. in worst case senerios ive seen systems blow back out of the actuator
Tim and Team, do you have a test procedure to validate the safe operation of the fire suppression lines? With all those bends and multiple fittings, I can see more opportunity for a leak or a pinched line. Awesome video set, I'm enjoying them thoroughly 😊
Man that is slick. I like that. Very clean professional installation. The only thing I don't like is the fire nozzles mounted to the fuel cell tube. In a front end collision with another car or the wall I have seen the whole front section of the car knocked off. If there is an engine fire at that time your fancy fire system is useless. Has to be a better way
You're right there. But the point of the fire system is to do 2 things: protect the driver un the event of a fire, and save the motor/car during a 'save-able' fire. If the whole front of the car gets knocked off like you say, then you really don't have anything to try to save up there, so then your only looking to protect the driver. In that case, the only thing I would have done differently is I would have come out of the fire bottles directly into a T fitting to split the pressure 50/50 between the motor nozzles and the interior nozzle.
Bad ass! This is why Tim is the fuckin best there is! Love jerry but no one pays attention to detail and quality like Tim does..
Well I looking order a system 20 lb and noticed it had flexible lines. Thank You for keeping us safer. Made my day! Thank You!
Tim and his team are true artisans
small details like that tube welded in at an angle make the finished job look so much better. 1st its for safety and structural integrity of course! but not having a sharp hole just drilled in the side makes it look amazing! Clean idea also. On my street car, I'm swapping to 4 wheel manual brakes. I never thought of actually using the line lock as the dist block instead of trying to reuse the OEM block under the master cyl. I bet that brace and gusset on the end of the M/C mean everything on a sheet metal firewall.
Great videos and awesome workmanship Tim. I can't believe I haven't stumbled across these until now.
Any tips on running rigid brake lines through the chassis tubing? I'm assuming the fittings are not installed at the time they are pushed through. Do you push them through towards the one with the angled conduit so it bends slightly as it exits the chassis tube? Then do you leave the rigid lines in place during painting? I've pulled electrical wiring through the chassis by inserting mechanics wire inside of the tubing during fabrication then after paint pull the electrical wiring through with the mechanics wire already in place but I never even thought about rigid lines through the chassis but would like to try it. Any tips would be great.
Thanks.
Mike
You should show a couple of your Flaring and Tube Bending tools that your shop uses to makes this type of work possible..... Hiding those lines and making clean bends and flares are not easy at this level..... Nice work Tim....
hi, would not the openings in the chassis tubing for the brake lines let moisture into the tubing and cause corrosion of the untreated chassis.?
how is this countered or is it insignificant? Here in Australia it is a big problem for unsealed tubes.
Charles I would say where you are there is a significantly higher salt content in the air if you are remotely close to the coast. Here in mid west regions of America it dosent seem to be a big issue as far as corrosion goes. At least it has never hurt any of our chassis to have a small opening in a couple tubes. It’s definitely worth the trade off for the added brake line protection cause I have seen things come off the car during a pass and fuck up a line making you lose brake pressure. Valid point though Charles
I thought mixing aluminum fittings and stainless lines was not acceptable. Are you using them on the fire suppression system because it’s lower psi or because they’re anodized?
the agent nozzles should always be on the middle side of the t fitting perpendicular to the downstream flow of the agent. your current setup is going to push more agent out of the first t, rather than pressurizing the line first with equal flow from all nozzles. you only have 20 lbs of agent at roughly 200 psi which isnt much, especially if your moving and the airflow blows a good amount out most of the engine compartment. also make sure the agent cylinders are designed to be layed on their sides. they have a stem that runs through the center of them. if its not a curved stem that is pointed down upoon instalation, you will not even get half of the agent out of the bottle before you run out of the nitrogen agent propellant.
also, you sould look at capping your nozzles so that grease, dirt, ect gets in them. ive seen what happens when nozzles get clogged. in worst case senerios ive seen systems blow back out of the actuator
safety first! I agree, death by fire would suck.
any tips for fishing the brake line through the chassis rail once you got the conduits in place?
I ended up blowing a piece of string through with an air gun
Tim and Team, do you have a test procedure to validate the safe operation of the fire suppression lines? With all those bends and multiple fittings, I can see more opportunity for a leak or a pinched line. Awesome video set, I'm enjoying them thoroughly 😊
How do you get the hard line thru the chassis?
Awesome video, very informative!
Man that is slick. I like that. Very clean professional installation. The only thing I don't like is the fire nozzles mounted to the fuel cell tube. In a front end collision with another car or the wall I have seen the whole front section of the car knocked off. If there is an engine fire at that time your fancy fire system is useless. Has to be a better way
You're right there. But the point of the fire system is to do 2 things: protect the driver un the event of a fire, and save the motor/car during a 'save-able' fire. If the whole front of the car gets knocked off like you say, then you really don't have anything to try to save up there, so then your only looking to protect the driver. In that case, the only thing I would have done differently is I would have come out of the fire bottles directly into a T fitting to split the pressure 50/50 between the motor nozzles and the interior nozzle.
Tim .... How is that brake line going to flex ever so slowly 😂. ..
Would have liked to see you put those four link mounts in.
Matt, that portion is covered in our Chassis Kit Tutorial video if you would like to view - timmcamis.com/shop/chassis-kit-tutorial-video.html
Same exact fire system I install in every asphalt abd dirt oval track car I build new or buy already built.