I want to add that rotella is a great oil for heavy duty use. We have used rotella for a very long time, change oil every 250 hours on our 14L 855 cummins engines that are working all day in the field. Very pleased with rotella
As a retired Deputy Sheriff, I can say that our agency was using Schaffer's motor oil since 1980. I cannot remember a blown patrol car engine. It's good stuff. I use Rotella 15w40 full synthetic in my recently purchased 2013 3500 with 52k miles. No leaks noted. It is used for monthly towing of a 7,500 lb camp trailer as well as daily driving. My first diesel. Cummins says to use 15w40 in their 2007.5 - 2018 engines if the temps are over 0* F and 5w40 if temps are below 0* F. The 2019's are 10w30 > 0* , 5w40 < 0*. We seldom see below zero temps in southwest Washington.
At 0 degrees fahrenheit I think 15 w is very very viscous. I still don't understand why would they even suggest that grade at those low temperatures. Do you know something I don't know?
My long time personal experience with this is maintenance. Extended drain intervals in the long run really don't save you much money. Most leaking diesels can be traced back to someone who doesn't change oil enough. Old oil takes its toll on gaskets and seals and eventually the engine itself. Also cool down is important. I never see anyone cool an engine down anymore. This also cooks gaskets and seals. You will spend more money in the long run extending maintenance than just changing the oil and filters. And old guy told me many years ago that no matter how much fuel and oil cost it will be the cheapest things you will ever spend money on while you own it. Just my 2 quarts
@@nulifevideos7141 after an extended run at high speed and or running the engine at or near full load it is important to idle the engine for a few minutes to cool the turbo down. It also helps removes hot spots in the engine. It takes time for valves , pistons and turbocharger temperature to stabilize. It's a good practice with any engine that's been working hard for any length of time. Especially air cooled engines. I'm sure some people would disagree with me but it's a time tested practice. Also don't forget about your transmission fluid also will cool
I switched from amsoil back in 2012 to Schaeffer and its the only oil ill use now. My engine has never ran so smooth and its half the cost. Americas oldest oil company and family owned 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I’ve run Amsoil 5W40 signature series synthetic on my truck for almost 3 years with a bypass oil filtration system. Never had any problems with it, and I change my oil and filters every 10k miles. Main reason I run that is to keep my engine running in peak condition and to keep it clean longer. But that’s just me
Same here, planning to add the bypass next oil change. In today's diesel's with egr, dpf etc. I want to do everything I can to prolong life and keep as much soot out of critical parts as possible
I’ve run amsoil in everything I have owned in the last 18 years. I’ve never had a issue with any of my snowmobiles, at a or my vehicles. My 08 tundra has 250,000 miles and runs like when I bought it. I just bought a new 2500 duramax and will be using amsoil in it also.
My buddy has a 2017 silverado 6.2L he has always used pennzoil platinum. His truck on cold starts would have a split second valvetrain rattle. I finally talked him into trying Schaeffer. He came to work the next day amazed. He said my truck starts so smooth and no valvetrain rattle. I said "you sure its not all in your head". He said absolutely not and now hes hooked. His avg fuel economy has went up 1.5mpg.
Same here. Except the intervals. 16 powerstroke. Change my fuel filter and oil and oil filter when the dash tells me to change the oil. I figure I can easily run until the truck notifies me using a full synthetic when ford designed the intervals for a synthetic blend. No issues.
15W-40 is fine in winter if you plug the truck in all the time. John Deere oil is a great oil. Nothing works harder than a tractor out in a field on a 95 degree day.
Unless you own a 6.0 powerstroke. 5/40 and 10/30 give them easier cold starts because the oil isn't as thick cold. I'd like to add that the additive package in Rotella is garbage. Most injector builders won't warranty your injectors if you run Rotella.
Paul I switched from t6 rotella 5w40 to Amsoil 5W-40 SS man the Cummins got quieter and got 1.5 mpg increase it loves the Amsoil so I'm going to keep buying it. It's 2017 6.7 Cummins but I've have got to figure out how to clean out the cylinder head air manifold this egr is gunking the shit out of it.
OK guys the reason to go with the manual recommended oil is not only temp but big reason is how the engine is made i.e. bearing clearances. When a engine lube system is designed it is with a certain viscosity being used. hear is an extreme example for those of you who think it doesn't matter. run 10W oil in a engine and you wont the oil won't stay between the metal surfaces longer enough to prevent contact. run 90w gear oil and the oil pump won't be able to put enough oil through the bearings to prevent contact. You have to keep the pressure in the factory spec. that is why you go with the engine recommended viscosity. Second, synthetic oil won't go through seals just because its synthetic. if your seals are bad and your using conventional oil that doesn't clean deposits nearly at all then the seals probably have some deposits on the oil side which does help a little in preventing leaks, but when you put synthetic in it has much better cleaning power and will clean the oil side of the seals which could then leak out. BUT that wouldn't happen if your seals are in good condition. Its all about the condition of the engine when you switch. And one aspect of synthetic oil is its molecules are much more uniform in size i.e. its been processed a whole lot more if thats worded right.
I hear this said often, but clearances have been the same for decades. Why is it that my minivan with 9k miles specced for 5 30, runs perfectly fine on 15 40? It's got all the bells and whistles of gdi, variable valves etc. It's clearly not only designed for only 5w30. You should take a look at over seas manuals. They spec up to 20w50, yet same engine is only allowed 5w30 in the USA. It's all about emissions and epa my friend. Thin oils are not for protection.
@@Terror1Void Bearing clearances are indeed different for most engines, why would you think every engine has the same clearance? I wouldn't recommend you rebuilding an engine if you think that. What do you mean by overseas manuals? also variable valves are controlled hydraulically i.e. engine oil and are designed to run with factory spec viscosity. Yes you can use different viscosity depending on avg ambient temp, like texas compared to alaska but that is also listed from the factory. I am a heavy equipment technician and have been doing this for a while. There are a lot of reasons to go with the factory specified viscosity and anyone who says different is ignorant on the matter. In other words you are not mechanically inclined and use should do some research as to what oil does for an engine and why it needs to be a specific viscosity. Look a little deeper than the car owners manual my friend.
To add, for 6.7 powerstroke the manual advises 15-40 when using bio diesel blends like many big truck stops have. Also oil sampling for me has best results with schaeffers
Amsoil for me. Amsoil is a one stop shop for all my oil needs. Lawn mower, week whackers and motorcycles, 2 and 4 stroke alike. Many quality oils on the market out there to choose from though.
Hey PD diesel power, from my experience in the HD equipment world an oil sampling something to consider on your oil sample tests from Schaffer. You mentioned the Ram 6.7 Cummins with 15w40 Shaffer oil having to add oil at 10,000 miles. That is the point where the oil is broken down an should be changed, the fact the oil has been added consistently over the next 14k miles (4 qt total) then sample taken at 24k miles an levels on report show it okay is because your adding oil, which adds the additives back in. If you'd like to test it further, trying with fresh oil but filling it a little overfull, then running it to 10k miles, take sample, then stretch it as far as possible before oil goes to low on dipstick where itd be unsafe to run engine(without adding any oil) and resample. Guaranteed the oil will be on the margin of good/bad on that second sample, an the rate of deterioration from first sample to second will be significant. Adding oil is just masking up the issues of the oil degrading. Also all things considered this is assuming no oil leaks or valve stem/rings passing oil an prematurely burning it. Would love to see a in-depth video on this an oil report samples. Thanks
Hey I had F350 7.3 used Amsoil , Rotela , Delo , 15w/40, 5/40. It used oil always added oil before change. Then traded it for Dodge 2006 5.9. Used 15/40, 5/40. Same Brands of oil. My Dodge never used up oil like my Ford 7.3. Nice video.
The 7.3 was nothing more than a 444 gas cornbinder with diesel heads piston coolers. 6.9 idi, 7.3 idi and 7.3 t444e all based of a gas md engine. It's no more durable than a 6.2 Chevy.
PD diesel power. I have an thought to offer. iv noticed in my experience driving big rigs the dello would start to burn oil at 6000 miles on the oil. mobile at 7 rotella at 10 most people run rotella to 15000 miles then spill it. the oils with the higher better TBN package take longer to go threw the additives package so the motor won't burn the oil. shaefers has great base stock tbn of 10 with moly. it's more of a 18000 mile oil though before it starts to burn. iv got a oil with TBN of 14 and so fare we haven't seen oil burning up to 30k.
I personally like the Rotella. I feel like the valvoline just has a badge stamped on it for no real reason. The rotella is suppose to have better zinc levels than most. And when we had -40 temps here last winter I switched to the 5-40 t6 the one thing I like about the t6 it stays cleaner longer compared to the t4 15-40. Oh and I pull 14-15 k trailer pritty regular.
CES 20081 is the meets or exceeds for the Cummins 6.7 and 15w 40 is recommend for all temps above 0 F... People who need something different know it already... The important thing is pick one and stay with it... Diesel motor oil creates the oil film required by to keep the piston rods off the crank shaft... 30 weight is to light for a diesel...the owners manual has a simple oil selection chart and for the Cummins as long as you are using the stated viscosity and it meets the specified cummins spec (CES 20081) it is the proper oil...
I have been doing some research which makes questions multiply the more I learn. From what I am seeing, synthetic oil is always thinner than the same weight in conventional. So my guess is that the truck just doesn't like the thicker oil. Take that with a grain of salt!!!
Hey Paul can you please elaborate how do you know where the diesel doesn’t like a certain weight oil please. I would really love it if you could go on with that
Hydraulic lifters is the reason why you want to use a thinner oil in your newer cummins. Solid tappets are used in the older engines that require you to check and set valve lash as a maintenance procedure. Use the manufacturers recommended viscosity. 5w,15w is what the weather chooses for you. That ladder number 30, 40 is what the engine pumps through all the expensive parts of the truck. Dont try to compress a thicker liquid through a hole with a thicker fluid then the pump and the lifters are designed by smart educated people that allow us regular folk the ability to drive and make silly decisions about things. If we wanted. Tolerances are apart of the equation but the exact numbers are used when designing and testing under the said conditions. I wonder if the creation of something comes first or if the owner’s maintenance manual was created first. Or maybe the maintenance and materials were considered when the designing of the finished product. Just not the oil filter placement or the people maintaining these vehicles.
@Peak Torque , if oil is oil, then why don't you use olive oil in your engine? If cared about your engine you would have done oil analysis using different brands.
I had a engine failure with Amsoil on my 2 stroke blaster. After that tried Schaeffers and havent had a engine failure. 🤷♂️ Cant get any better real world results than that.
Rotella T6 sounds terrible when it comes to 2017 and up Ford 6.7 turbo diesel engine the valves make noise when I run 15w40 I'm hopping after I solve the oil leak problem I can use the 10w30 witch is hard to find when it comes to synthetic or synthetic blend diesel oil for my truck
@@doncox8966it's better oil but to expensive for my 6.7 I have bigger oil pan I have to put around 20 quarts of oil inside I think the cheapest way would be buying Rotella 5w40 from Amazon the cold weather is affecting the engine block runing 15w40
@@doncox8966 in my area even walmart it used to cost less now its about $35 to $40 a gallon depending if it's 5w40 or 10w30 things are becoming expensive 😂
I have a 2018 RAM 5500 and I’ve been running Shell Rotella T6 5w 40 and currently have about 74,000 miles on it. I have never had add any oil between oil changes at 14,000 mile intervals, I’ve been happy with it’s performance so far, always up to the full mark on the dipstick! I watched one of your other videos talking about how good Schaeffers oil is, so I did some additional research and decided to order some Schaeffers Supreme 9000 5w 40 to try it out, but now after watching this video and you talking about problems with switching oils, I’m a little apprehensive. Do you think I should try using it or not? I haul RVs all over the US and Canada and run around 23,000 lbs when fully loaded.
If you want wear free engine, turbo and so on stay away from full synthetic unless you change it every 6k max. Full synthetic oil is not synthetic oil after all, it cannot last long time and cannot protect engine from wearing out.
@@waterbuddy92 , later today I will give you explanation. Unfortunately people pay for products that don't even meet specifications. By the way thank you for asking.
@@waterbuddy92 , Why full synthetic oil is not even synthetic at all? It all started back in the late 90s when Mobil 1 tested Castrol oil and evolved into famous "Mobil 1 vs Castrol lawsuit" search for it exactly as it appears in quotes. Before late 90s all major oil companies formulate their Oil using synthetic base stock oil. Castrol switched to none synthetic base stock oil but kept the label as full synthetic, misleading public with fake label. Mobil 1 tested Castrol oil and found that they have switched to none synthetic base stock oil but kept the label. API didn't even know about it or tested the oil, because API doesn't test oil for quality. Mobil 1 took Castrol to the court due to false advertising and false label, but lost the case. Since then all major oil companies kept the label as full synthetic but changed oil formulation as none synthetic. Just recently one major oil company tested other major oil company Diesel motor oil and found that it doesn't even meet specifications. Most of the diesel motor Oils on the market don't even meet specifications or on the border line. You probably asking yourself, why should I care how it's formulated? Full synthetic Oils, don't provide same level of protection as synthetic against wear, Oil consumption, resistance to heat, resistance to break down, resistance to fight byproducts and so on. Why PD is against the Amsoil, because he has high oil consumption with Schaefer and he thinks it will be same case with Amsoil, but that's not the case. His oil analysis report is not correct, because his Cummins has Oil consumption and he keeps adding oil which means his lab results will be positive due fresh oil. Even Schaefer was tested by competitor and found that it doesn't meet specifications.
Anything 2011 or newer should be running 5W 40. That’s what they call for for extreme conditions. You should not be running 15 40 in cold climates PERIOD.
Oil used to be formulated to protect against engine wear. Now it’s formulated for emissions. Things like Zinc that are great for engines are bad for catalysts. So they have been removed. There’s so much detergents especially in synthetic oils. That most of the great additives stay suspended in the oil and can not adhere to the metal any more. This is why you break in a new or rebuilt engines with a straight weight non detergent oil. Back in the day filtration system technology were not that good. That’s why you can get the oil pan off with out removing the engine in most classic cars. They would remove the oil pan and clean the sludge every 15,000 miles. A lot of people didn’t and sludge started becoming a problem. As oil filtration systems started getting better they needed to add detergent. Detergent bonds with the contaminated particles to make them bigger and keep them suspended in the oil so that it can be removed when traveling through the filter. The thinner they run the oil in hopes of less windage and better MPG the higher the film strength needs to be with less contaminate in it . So they keep adding detergent and because there’s so much detergent in modern synthetic oils. None of the great additives they put in for engine wear can stick to anything in the motor. It’s said zink ruins modern catalyst emissions systems. I don’t know that for a fact but that’s what they say. The best Oil is RedLine I know that for a fact. Followed by Clean Boost and Swepoil.
premium blue is not conventional, it's a blend or parasynthetic, jus sayin. tried that schaeffers in a c15 CAT, Consumption went from 1 gallon in 12k miles to 5. after 2 oil changes went back to delvac. it never fully recovered. went to 1 gallon at 6k and another 2 by 15k all the way to 1.1 million miles(never been apart) delo and rotella seemed to drop oil pressure when hot after running a while. about to do the first oil change in a 2020 X15 cummins. gonna just use the recommended premium blue, probably 10w30. the full synthetic seems hard to find
The only good reason to use synthetic is if you want to do extended oil change intervals or you live in a really cold climate. If you change it every 5K regular, and it doesn't get below 20 degrees very often 15w40 is fine, even if your working your truck hard, any brand of diesel oil is rated for that kind of abuse. I run 15w40 diesel oil in all of my engines, including my Jeep 4.0 like what's in the video.
@@repairvehicle Diesel oil works great for older gas engines because of the higher Zinc content, people have been using it in pushrod gas engines for years, it is also rated for use in wet clutch motorcycle and ATV systems that are gas.
Hey Paul, nice video. Maybe do one and cover other items like what type/brand grease you use, prefer and why. I seem to jump around a bit, recently bought Schaefer's as it was recommended for truck parts, my equipment trailer bearings as well as my boat trailer (used in salt water). Thanks
Buy with confidence with Schaeffer Products! They are all top notch. I use their products from oils to trans fluid fuel additives and grease. All great stuff.
Hey Paul, a little off subject here but I would like to know how often you put Schaeffers fuel additive in the tank. Every fill up? If anyone else has an answer I would be grateful. I don't tow regularly but I do about 100 miles daily on the highway.
Good video. Basically you should use 5w40 if you'll run the truck in lower temperature ranges and 0w40 if it'll be run in extremely low temperatures (ie arctic circle or wherever gets -30 degrees). At colder temps the 5 weight will still flow whereas 15 weight will be thicc like molasses.
natey891.......The AMSOOIL Signature Diesel oil 15W-40 has a "POUR POINT" of -40 F Their 5W-40 Grade has "POUR POINT" of -45 F so there is only a 5 degree difference in them. The tests are ASTM D-97
Hey so devil's advocate hear but in my opinion don't you feel the 15w40s increased oil pressure in extreme colds could make you more susceptible to having oil leaks? Especially in a environment it happens repeatedly
Would there be a potential issue changing from rotrella t4 to t6 on a 2018 6.7 cummins? Has 6k on it now also what mileage would you go synthetic for break in purposes? On a side note your channel helped convert me away from powerstroke.
You can compare quality oils from major companies to amsoil schaffers ect. Phillips Mobil shell and more all make oils that will far outlast the interval recommend. You can do oil samples with those brands and see if you have an advantage in buying the specialty oils. Good products yes they are. Far superior no they aren’t
You might have some issues changing from one brand to another until the first oil change, then you should be ok, sometimes it take a while to clean out the old oils additive package. (may burn some oil for a while)
Most oils that are multi weight even the better oils will not always perform well at either end for a long period of time .. Hence it is best to work with a weight that will protect your motor for the work environment you work in and rest in as well.
How do we feel about my dad pulling two wagons of grain (60k lbs) with his 06 2500 duramax 20+ times a fall? He doesn't seem to care that he abuses his pickup with a semi load lmao
I disagree. Chevron Delo is factory fill for all Paccar and Freightliner trucks. I’ve used Delo and Rotella in trucks pulling huge weights with zero issues. You won’t go wrong with either for pulling. Nothing wrong with Schaeffer if you like it. I do believe that pick one and stick with it is best.
When you go really deep into this it's really stupid honestly just follow the owner's manual of it says 1540 use 1540 if it says 10:30 then use 10:30 my brother has a 5th gen we just run 10:30 diesel That's it man then my dad he has a 2018 and we just ran 1540 it's not that hard people make it so complicated like oh look at the specifications man it's just proper maintenance and going based off what the cap says and the owner's manual
The owners manual defines oil spec for these engines, if you read it you'll see. The Cummins engineers that built this engine from the ground up probably know exactly what is needed to give you the best service and long life. If whatever oil you like, or are willing to pay for meets the Cummins spec for these engines you will be fine. So much crapola surrounding motor oils. And, here's the truth: You and I will never know the actual chemical make up of any of these oils. Go ahead, call the manufacturer. They won't tell you anything (even Schaeffers) It's all top secret shit. So, one's opinion is just that!! Opinion! Don't get caught up in the bs, just run manufacturer spec products, brand of your choosing, they are all good.
You can go back and forth. Or mix them. I've done this many times and have over 270,000 miles. I have been using full synthetic the last two years. I've had the truck for 20 years now.
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 we run 15w40 year round. In south Louisiana we only have a few mornings a year that are below freezing. Most winter mornings are in the low 40s
Pick an oil and stick with it, that's the best thing to take away from this video. I use Rotella T4 and won't put anything else in my Duramax, I chose to go with that oil mostly because of availability, no matter where you are you can get Rotella 15/40 oil.
Does the USA have an obsession with oil brands? I'm a mechanic here in Ireland and oil brand is completely irrelevant to customers and garage's alike. Oil is chosen on its manufacturer spec, ie VW 507.00 etc and changed every 15000 KMS.
The reason why your seals go out is because they’re changing oil synthetic oil eats carbon deposit synthetic oil will blow out your seals in your motor. If your engine engine has been ran on nothing but conventional oil.
What should I run in my 1976 240D and 1974 peugeot both are non turbo and both use conventional oil in alabama I found fleet diesel oil straight 40weight for a great price $70 a gallon
I want to add that rotella is a great oil for heavy duty use. We have used rotella for a very long time, change oil every 250 hours on our 14L 855 cummins engines that are working all day in the field. Very pleased with rotella
Hmmmm I think rotella T6 is a great oil for light duty use too. Haha
Great on a wet clutch like sport bikes and I used it in gas cars and trucks for years
My dad was just telling me that on his old 359 with a 3406B if you used anything but rotella warranty was voided.
As a retired Deputy Sheriff, I can say that our agency was using Schaffer's motor oil since 1980. I cannot remember a blown patrol car engine. It's good stuff. I use Rotella 15w40 full synthetic in my recently purchased 2013 3500 with 52k miles. No leaks noted. It is used for monthly towing of a 7,500 lb camp trailer as well as daily driving. My first diesel. Cummins says to use 15w40 in their 2007.5 - 2018 engines if the temps are over 0* F and 5w40 if temps are below 0* F. The 2019's are 10w30 > 0* , 5w40 < 0*. We seldom see below zero temps in southwest Washington.
At 0 degrees fahrenheit I think 15 w is very very viscous. I still don't understand why would they even suggest that grade at those low temperatures. Do you know something I don't know?
My long time personal experience with this is maintenance. Extended drain intervals in the long run really don't save you much money. Most leaking diesels can be traced back to someone who doesn't change oil enough. Old oil takes its toll on gaskets and seals and eventually the engine itself. Also cool down is important. I never see anyone cool an engine down anymore. This also cooks gaskets and seals. You will spend more money in the long run extending maintenance than just changing the oil and filters. And old guy told me many years ago that no matter how much fuel and oil cost it will be the cheapest things you will ever spend money on while you own it. Just my 2 quarts
How do you cool down?
@@nulifevideos7141 after an extended run at high speed and or running the engine at or near full load it is important to idle the engine for a few minutes to cool the turbo down. It also helps removes hot spots in the engine. It takes time for valves , pistons and turbocharger temperature to stabilize. It's a good practice with any engine that's been working hard for any length of time. Especially air cooled engines. I'm sure some people would disagree with me but it's a time tested practice. Also don't forget about your transmission fluid also will cool
@@jimmotormedic My Cummins manual for the L9 agrees with the cool down but watch your temp gauges as over idling is not recommended.
"Just my 2 Quarts" 😂
Just bought a 30 gal keg of Schaffers , it's what they've been using in the cats at work ,
I switched from amsoil back in 2012 to Schaeffer and its the only oil ill use now. My engine has never ran so smooth and its half the cost.
Americas oldest oil company and family owned 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Jeep XJ! I've been running 5w-40 synthetic in my 1999 XJ, now at 240,000 miles! Replaced valve cover gasket and the top of that head looked brand new!
I’ve run Amsoil 5W40 signature series synthetic on my truck for almost 3 years with a bypass oil filtration system. Never had any problems with it, and I change my oil and filters every 10k miles. Main reason I run that is to keep my engine running in peak condition and to keep it clean longer. But that’s just me
You are smart man. I use Amsoil too and in 13 months city driving, 8k miles I get zero engine wear. Verified via Oil Analysis.
Same here, planning to add the bypass next oil change. In today's diesel's with egr, dpf etc. I want to do everything I can to prolong life and keep as much soot out of critical parts as possible
@@billwaterhouse5894 , very smart, many people don't realize how much damage soot cause.
That is the only way to fly. One gets what they pay for usually, like 1 or 2 micron filtration with those. Top Shelf.
I’ve run amsoil in everything I have owned in the last 18 years. I’ve never had a issue with any of my snowmobiles, at a or my vehicles. My 08 tundra has 250,000 miles and runs like when I bought it. I just bought a new 2500 duramax and will be using amsoil in it also.
My buddy has a 2017 silverado 6.2L he has always used pennzoil platinum. His truck on cold starts would have a split second valvetrain rattle. I finally talked him into trying Schaeffer. He came to work the next day amazed. He said my truck starts so smooth and no valvetrain rattle. I said "you sure its not all in your head". He said absolutely not and now hes hooked. His avg fuel economy has went up 1.5mpg.
I run rotella t6 5w40 in my 2016 powerstroke. I change the oil every 5k miles the truck has been doing really well with the oil.
Same, I personally belive is better to have more frequent intervals than getting super premium oils on longer intervals.
You can easily go 8-10K with that oil.
Same here. Except the intervals. 16 powerstroke. Change my fuel filter and oil and oil filter when the dash tells me to change the oil. I figure I can easily run until the truck notifies me using a full synthetic when ford designed the intervals for a synthetic blend. No issues.
ALWAYS use Motorcraft filters.....
What's wrong with the T6 15w40
I personally run amsoil in my Duramax not because I tow heavy everyday but it's because I have high idle time since I plow snow with mine
You run it year round or just winter time? I plow also on my 6.0 and sometimes truck can sit 8-16 hours at a time at idle
@@nightfox5816 year round
@@oliverknapp3104 what you pay for that oil? How often u change it?
@@nightfox5816 I pay about 110 for 11 quarts and a filter about 3 times a year. You might pay more since I’m friends with the guy I get it from
15W-40 is fine in winter if you plug the truck in all the time. John Deere oil is a great oil. Nothing works harder than a tractor out in a field on a 95 degree day.
Unless you own a 6.0 powerstroke. 5/40 and 10/30 give them easier cold starts because the oil isn't as thick cold. I'd like to add that the additive package in Rotella is garbage. Most injector builders won't warranty your injectors if you run Rotella.
Paul I switched from t6 rotella 5w40 to Amsoil 5W-40 SS man the Cummins got quieter and got 1.5 mpg increase it loves the Amsoil so I'm going to keep buying it. It's 2017 6.7 Cummins but I've have got to figure out how to clean out the cylinder head air manifold this egr is gunking the shit out of it.
OK guys the reason to go with the manual recommended oil is not only temp but big reason is how the engine is made i.e. bearing clearances. When a engine lube system is designed it is with a certain viscosity being used.
hear is an extreme example for those of you who think it doesn't matter.
run 10W oil in a engine and you wont the oil won't stay between the metal surfaces longer enough to prevent contact.
run 90w gear oil and the oil pump won't be able to put enough oil through the bearings to prevent contact.
You have to keep the pressure in the factory spec.
that is why you go with the engine recommended viscosity.
Second, synthetic oil won't go through seals just because its synthetic. if your seals are bad and your using conventional oil that doesn't clean deposits nearly at all then the seals probably have some deposits on the oil side which does help a little in preventing leaks, but when you put synthetic in it has much better cleaning power and will clean the oil side of the seals which could then leak out. BUT that wouldn't happen if your seals are in good condition.
Its all about the condition of the engine when you switch. And one aspect of synthetic oil is its molecules are much more uniform in size i.e. its been processed a whole lot more if thats worded right.
I hear this said often, but clearances have been the same for decades. Why is it that my minivan with 9k miles specced for 5 30, runs perfectly fine on 15 40? It's got all the bells and whistles of gdi, variable valves etc. It's clearly not only designed for only 5w30.
You should take a look at over seas manuals. They spec up to 20w50, yet same engine is only allowed 5w30 in the USA. It's all about emissions and epa my friend. Thin oils are not for protection.
@@Terror1Void Bearing clearances are indeed different for most engines, why would you think every engine has the same clearance? I wouldn't recommend you rebuilding an engine if you think that.
What do you mean by overseas manuals? also variable valves are controlled hydraulically i.e. engine oil and are designed to run with factory spec viscosity.
Yes you can use different viscosity depending on avg ambient temp, like texas compared to alaska but that is also listed from the factory.
I am a heavy equipment technician and have been doing this for a while. There are a lot of reasons to go with the factory specified viscosity and anyone who says different is ignorant on the matter. In other words you are not mechanically inclined and use should do some research as to what oil does for an engine and why it needs to be a specific viscosity.
Look a little deeper than the car owners manual my friend.
To add, for 6.7 powerstroke the manual advises 15-40 when using bio diesel blends like many big truck stops have. Also oil sampling for me has best results with schaeffers
I run rotella t4 15w-40 in my 14 Cummins got 413000+ miles oil sample clean no problems
Steven cobb how many miles between changes?
I do 6000 between changes it freaks me out going that far and it was married to a trailer the whole time
What are your metal wear numbers?
Is there a way to upload pics on here?
@@stevencobb8240 , no. You can upload to Instagram if you have account. Or just type them here.
Amsoil for me. Amsoil is a one stop shop for all my oil needs. Lawn mower, week whackers and motorcycles, 2 and 4 stroke alike. Many quality oils on the market out there to choose from though.
Great stuff
Hey PD diesel power, from my experience in the HD equipment world an oil sampling something to consider on your oil sample tests from Schaffer. You mentioned the Ram 6.7 Cummins with 15w40 Shaffer oil having to add oil at 10,000 miles. That is the point where the oil is broken down an should be changed, the fact the oil has been added consistently over the next 14k miles (4 qt total) then sample taken at 24k miles an levels on report show it okay is because your adding oil, which adds the additives back in. If you'd like to test it further, trying with fresh oil but filling it a little overfull, then running it to 10k miles, take sample, then stretch it as far as possible before oil goes to low on dipstick where itd be unsafe to run engine(without adding any oil) and resample. Guaranteed the oil will be on the margin of good/bad on that second sample, an the rate of deterioration from first sample to second will be significant. Adding oil is just masking up the issues of the oil degrading. Also all things considered this is assuming no oil leaks or valve stem/rings passing oil an prematurely burning it.
Would love to see a in-depth video on this an oil report samples.
Thanks
That would be interesting to see
Hey I had F350 7.3 used Amsoil , Rotela , Delo , 15w/40, 5/40. It used oil always added oil before change. Then traded it for Dodge 2006 5.9. Used 15/40, 5/40. Same Brands of oil. My Dodge never used up oil like my Ford 7.3. Nice video.
joseph puchel my 7.3 has never eaten a drop of oil
The 7.3 was nothing more than a 444 gas cornbinder with diesel heads piston coolers. 6.9 idi, 7.3 idi and 7.3 t444e all based of a gas md engine. It's no more durable than a 6.2 Chevy.
I think it probably needed injector O-Rings
Every civic I had as a kid ran on 15/40 rotella and they did great also rotella is good on a wet clutch like sport bikes quads ect
2004 f-350, make sure you have good glow plugs, 15-40, save your money, truck runs like a champ at -30 , let it warm up
PD diesel power. I have an thought to offer. iv noticed in my experience driving big rigs the dello would start to burn oil at 6000 miles on the oil. mobile at 7 rotella at 10 most people run rotella to 15000 miles then spill it.
the oils with the higher better TBN package take longer to go threw the additives package so the motor won't burn the oil.
shaefers has great base stock tbn of 10 with moly.
it's more of a 18000 mile oil though before it starts to burn. iv got a oil with TBN of 14 and so fare we haven't seen oil burning up to 30k.
I use nothing but amsoil it's great stuff
The best oil is the one that is changed every 3-4 thousand miles.
15-40 was most likely too thick for the hydraulic lifters
Gen3tx best reply right here
Exactly. The older trucks were solid lifters and didn't really care.
I personally like the Rotella. I feel like the valvoline just has a badge stamped on it for no real reason. The rotella is suppose to have better zinc levels than most. And when we had -40 temps here last winter I switched to the 5-40 t6 the one thing I like about the t6 it stays cleaner longer compared to the t4 15-40. Oh and I pull 14-15 k trailer pritty regular.
CES 20081 is the meets or exceeds for the Cummins 6.7 and 15w 40 is recommend for all temps above 0 F... People who need something different know it already... The important thing is pick one and stay with it... Diesel motor oil creates the oil film required by to keep the piston rods off the crank shaft... 30 weight is to light for a diesel...the owners manual has a simple oil selection chart and for the Cummins as long as you are using the stated viscosity and it meets the specified cummins spec (CES 20081) it is the proper oil...
According to the manual, you should only use 5w-40 or 10w-30 in the 2019+ ram trucks with the Cummins.
I have been doing some research which makes questions multiply the more I learn. From what I am seeing, synthetic oil is always thinner than the same weight in conventional. So my guess is that the truck just doesn't like the thicker oil. Take that with a grain of salt!!!
You should check project farm on RUclips. He has some neat test on diesel oils.
Gasket swell up additive is in every motor oil, it depends on the brand.
No. Mainly 'High Mileage' motor oils have the seal conditioners.
Hey Paul can you please elaborate how do you know where the diesel doesn’t like a certain weight oil please. I would really love it if you could go on with that
He said engine didn’t sound right
I’m running Schaefer’s 10W-30 in 6 of my 2019-2020 ISBs and they seem to like it both hot and cold weather. Have you looked into the 10W-30?
Hydraulic lifters is the reason why you want to use a thinner oil in your newer cummins. Solid tappets are used in the older engines that require you to check and set valve lash as a maintenance procedure. Use the manufacturers recommended viscosity. 5w,15w is what the weather chooses for you. That ladder number 30, 40 is what the engine pumps through all the expensive parts of the truck. Dont try to compress a thicker liquid through a hole with a thicker fluid then the pump and the lifters are designed by smart educated people that allow us regular folk the ability to drive and make silly decisions about things. If we wanted. Tolerances are apart of the equation but the exact numbers are used when designing and testing under the said conditions. I wonder if the creation of something comes first or if the owner’s maintenance manual was created first. Or maybe the maintenance and materials were considered when the designing of the finished product. Just not the oil filter placement or the people maintaining these vehicles.
With Amsoil I get zero engine wear and with other brands I get 4 times engine wear. Does it makes sense for me to use Amsoil of course.
@Peak Torque , I have lab results on my channel as a proof.
@Peak Torque, they are on my channel
@Peak Torque, Blackstone lab results say complete opposite of what your lie saying.
@Peak Torque , if oil is oil, then why don't you use olive oil in your engine? If cared about your engine you would have done oil analysis using different brands.
I had a engine failure with Amsoil on my 2 stroke blaster. After that tried Schaeffers and havent had a engine failure. 🤷♂️
Cant get any better real world results than that.
Rotella T6 sounds terrible when it comes to 2017 and up Ford 6.7 turbo diesel engine the valves make noise when I run 15w40 I'm hopping after I solve the oil leak problem I can use the 10w30 witch is hard to find when it comes to synthetic or synthetic blend diesel oil for my truck
Schaeffer's makes 10w30 synthetic blends and full synthetic diesel oils
@@doncox8966it's better oil but to expensive for my 6.7 I have bigger oil pan I have to put around 20 quarts of oil inside I think the cheapest way would be buying Rotella 5w40 from Amazon the cold weather is affecting the engine block runing 15w40
$28 a gallon is to expensive? That's what a gallon of Schaeffer's cost. Run it another 1000 miles and it's paid for.
@@doncox8966 in my area even walmart it used to cost less now its about $35 to $40 a gallon depending if it's 5w40 or 10w30 things are becoming expensive 😂
2017 Ford 6.7 specs 5W-40 in the manual and on the oil cap. Not 15W-40
Valvoline premium blue is good stuff man
I have a 2018 RAM 5500 and I’ve been running Shell Rotella T6 5w 40 and currently have about 74,000 miles on it. I have never had add any oil between oil changes at 14,000 mile intervals, I’ve been happy with it’s performance so far, always up to the full mark on the dipstick! I watched one of your other videos talking about how good Schaeffers oil is, so I did some additional research and decided to order some Schaeffers Supreme 9000 5w 40 to try it out, but now after watching this video and you talking about problems with switching oils, I’m a little apprehensive. Do you think I should try using it or not? I haul RVs all over the US and Canada and run around 23,000 lbs when fully loaded.
If you want wear free engine, turbo and so on stay away from full synthetic unless you change it every 6k max. Full synthetic oil is not synthetic oil after all, it cannot last long time and cannot protect engine from wearing out.
repairvehicle full synthetic is not synthetic....explain please
@@waterbuddy92 , later today I will give you explanation. Unfortunately people pay for products that don't even meet specifications. By the way thank you for asking.
@@waterbuddy92 , Why full synthetic oil is not even synthetic at all? It all started back in the late 90s when Mobil 1 tested Castrol oil and evolved into famous "Mobil 1 vs Castrol lawsuit" search for it exactly as it appears in quotes. Before late 90s all major oil companies formulate their Oil using synthetic base stock oil. Castrol switched to none synthetic base stock oil but kept the label as full synthetic, misleading public with fake label. Mobil 1 tested Castrol oil and found that they have switched to none synthetic base stock oil but kept the label. API didn't even know about it or tested the oil, because API doesn't test oil for quality. Mobil 1 took Castrol to the court due to false advertising and false label, but lost the case. Since then all major oil companies kept the label as full synthetic but changed oil formulation as none synthetic. Just recently one major oil company tested other major oil company Diesel motor oil and found that it doesn't even meet specifications. Most of the diesel motor Oils on the market don't even meet specifications or on the border line.
You probably asking yourself, why should I care how it's formulated? Full synthetic Oils, don't provide same level of protection as synthetic against wear, Oil consumption, resistance to heat, resistance to break down, resistance to fight byproducts and so on.
Why PD is against the Amsoil, because he has high oil consumption with Schaefer and he thinks it will be same case with Amsoil, but that's not the case. His oil analysis report is not correct, because his Cummins has Oil consumption and he keeps adding oil which means his lab results will be positive due fresh oil.
Even Schaefer was tested by competitor and found that it doesn't meet specifications.
repairvehicle geezo...as if life isn’t complicated enuf. Thx man!
I honestly get better mileage in my 6.7 power stroke using 5W-40 synthetic over 15W-40.
I wish they made a 10w-40 conventional diesel oil! That 15w just seems a bit too thick for NY winters.
Rotella, Delo & Valoline make it. They carry it at Rural King sometimes
@@dougmatheny854 rotella does t make 10w40 diesel oil anymore. They stopped years ago
Not saying schaeffer is bad oil but what if you send sample to different lab?
You should get the same results! The oil lab Schaeffer's uses is an independent lab in Ohio.
Anything 2011 or newer should be running 5W 40. That’s what they call for for extreme conditions.
You should not be running 15 40 in cold climates PERIOD.
False my 15.5 Duramax only gets 15w40 I live in the south
Oil used to be formulated to protect against engine wear. Now it’s formulated for emissions. Things like Zinc that are great for engines are bad for catalysts. So they have been removed. There’s so much detergents especially in synthetic oils. That most of the great additives stay suspended in the oil and can not adhere to the metal any more. This is why you break in a new or rebuilt engines with a straight weight non detergent oil. Back in the day filtration system technology were not that good. That’s why you can get the oil pan off with out removing the engine in most classic cars. They would remove the oil pan and clean the sludge every 15,000 miles. A lot of people didn’t and sludge started becoming a problem. As oil filtration systems started getting better they needed to add detergent. Detergent bonds with the contaminated particles to make them bigger and keep them suspended in the oil so that it can be removed when traveling through the filter. The thinner they run the oil in hopes of less windage and better MPG the higher the film strength needs to be with less contaminate in it . So they keep adding detergent and because there’s so much detergent in modern synthetic oils. None of the great additives they put in for engine wear can stick to anything in the motor. It’s said zink ruins modern catalyst emissions systems. I don’t know that for a fact but that’s what they say. The best Oil is RedLine I know that for a fact. Followed by Clean Boost and Swepoil.
Amsoil has been shown in tests all over YT to be better than Redline
How about a video on filtration? Both oil and fuel.
premium blue is not conventional, it's a blend or parasynthetic, jus sayin. tried that schaeffers in a c15 CAT, Consumption went from 1 gallon in 12k miles to 5. after 2 oil changes went back to delvac. it never fully recovered. went to 1 gallon at 6k and another 2 by 15k all the way to 1.1 million miles(never been apart) delo and rotella seemed to drop oil pressure when hot after running a while. about to do the first oil change in a 2020 X15 cummins. gonna just use the recommended premium blue, probably 10w30. the full synthetic seems hard to find
5w40 "should" even out in the winter compared to 15w40. If the oil is cold, that 5w is thick like 15w in the summer.
I disagree and will put Rotella T6 against any oil
T6 is pretty good oil , I ran a lot of it, but it's fleet oil . It doesn't compare to Schaeffer's!
Sir. Next pls Goodyear lubricant 15w-40 give some review and tag me if your give some details about the product of GOODYEAR LUBRICANT.thanks
The only good reason to use synthetic is if you want to do extended oil change intervals or you live in a really cold climate. If you change it every 5K regular, and it doesn't get below 20 degrees very often 15w40 is fine, even if your working your truck hard, any brand of diesel oil is rated for that kind of abuse. I run 15w40 diesel oil in all of my engines, including my Jeep 4.0 like what's in the video.
You have different byproducts gas vs Diesel. Diesel Oil cannot convert byproduct produced by gas engine. Different formulas for different engines.
@@repairvehicle Diesel oil works great for older gas engines because of the higher Zinc content, people have been using it in pushrod gas engines for years, it is also rated for use in wet clutch motorcycle and ATV systems that are gas.
@@Lray4x4 , there's a high zink oil for gas engines specifically.
@@repairvehicle I am aware of that, but the diesel oil works fine and it's cheaper.
I have been using 5-40 in my gas truck whole time, 10000 mike changes no issues. Spotless inside...
i'd love to use schaeffer, but the nearest dealer is 100 miles away. I guess I could make a trip and buy in bulk and just store it.
Have it shipped for free
Where are you located?
Hey Paul, nice video. Maybe do one and cover other items like what type/brand grease you use, prefer and why. I seem to jump around a bit, recently bought Schaefer's as it was recommended for truck parts, my equipment trailer bearings as well as my boat trailer (used in salt water). Thanks
Be careful with grease. They are very strange at compatibility.
Buy with confidence with Schaeffer Products! They are all top notch. I use their products from oils to trans fluid fuel additives and grease. All great stuff.
So much to learn.
Power Driver Diesel's high zinc oil 👊🏻💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I was just gonna say he should try it
Nicholas Kenny he cant. Their oil is for non emissions trucks
@@dixiemae5042 true, but I think he has at least one deleted/non emissions truck
So what do you use in your semi trucks preferably Cummings 15l
Hey Paul, a little off subject here but I would like to know how often you put Schaeffers fuel additive in the tank. Every fill up? If anyone else has an answer I would be grateful. I don't tow regularly but I do about 100 miles daily on the highway.
Good video. Basically you should use 5w40 if you'll run the truck in lower temperature ranges and 0w40 if it'll be run in extremely low temperatures (ie arctic circle or wherever gets -30 degrees). At colder temps the 5 weight will still flow whereas 15 weight will be thicc like molasses.
natey891.......The AMSOOIL Signature Diesel oil 15W-40 has a "POUR POINT" of -40 F Their 5W-40 Grade has "POUR POINT" of -45 F so there is only a 5 degree difference in them. The tests are ASTM D-97
Hey so devil's advocate hear but in my opinion don't you feel the 15w40s increased oil pressure in extreme colds could make you more susceptible to having oil leaks? Especially in a environment it happens repeatedly
The relief valve in the oil pump should prevent that from happening. It can definitely cause other problems though.
My 2021 alumiduty doesn’t like 15w40.
Would there be a potential issue changing from rotrella t4 to t6 on a 2018 6.7 cummins? Has 6k on it now also what mileage would you go synthetic for break in purposes? On a side note your channel helped convert me away from powerstroke.
T4 and t6 about same thing both none synthetic Oils. Don't be fooled by full synthetic label.
It left the Cummins assembly plant with T6 because they dont know if it'll end up in AK or FL.
any thoughts / experience / on transmission?? aisin
What oil filter u using on ur 6.7 Cummins
Which Schaffer’s gear oil are you using?
Great common sense overview of which oils working best for you
hello have you done a lab test on rotella t4 , if yes what is the zinc level , thank you
You can compare quality oils from major companies to amsoil schaffers ect. Phillips Mobil shell and more all make oils that will far outlast the interval recommend. You can do oil samples with those brands and see if you have an advantage in buying the specialty oils. Good products yes they are. Far superior no they aren’t
So the Schaffer’s u uses in the 4 th gens semi synthetic?
Do you use bi-pass filters
You might have some issues changing from one brand to another until the first oil change, then you should be ok, sometimes it take a while to clean out the old oils additive package. (may burn some oil for a while)
As for a big rig shell worked best. Never ran ams oil, but the others did seem to leak more. Oh, never ran shafers.
Most oils that are multi weight even the better oils will not always perform well at either end for a long period of time .. Hence it is best to work with a weight that will protect your motor for the work environment you work in and rest in as well.
thank you for the info
All I've heard is blah blah blah
No shit! Blabbering!
How do we feel about my dad pulling two wagons of grain (60k lbs) with his 06 2500 duramax 20+ times a fall? He doesn't seem to care that he abuses his pickup with a semi load lmao
🧢
I disagree. Chevron Delo is factory fill for all Paccar and Freightliner trucks. I’ve used Delo and Rotella in trucks pulling huge weights with zero issues. You won’t go wrong with either for pulling. Nothing wrong with Schaeffer if you like it. I do believe that pick one and stick with it is best.
Redline is still the Boss
I reckon all those tools are for working on that old XJ I know the feeling lol
When you go really deep into this it's really stupid honestly just follow the owner's manual of it says 1540 use 1540 if it says 10:30 then use 10:30 my brother has a 5th gen we just run 10:30 diesel That's it man then my dad he has a 2018 and we just ran 1540 it's not that hard people make it so complicated like oh look at the specifications man it's just proper maintenance and going based off what the cap says and the owner's manual
Do you know the temperature range of the rotella 15w40?
Engine Oil leaks is the result of worn-out engine components. Oil failed to protect engine from wearing out, you can thank your low quality oil.
Every Cummins deserves a high Zinc diet.
Schaeffer's!!!
The owners manual defines oil spec for these engines, if you read it you'll see. The Cummins engineers that built this engine from the ground up probably know exactly what is needed to give you the best service and long life. If whatever oil you like, or are willing to pay for meets the Cummins spec for these engines you will be fine. So much crapola surrounding motor oils. And, here's the truth: You and I will never know the actual chemical make up of any of these oils. Go ahead, call the manufacturer. They won't tell you anything (even Schaeffers) It's all top secret shit. So, one's opinion is just that!! Opinion! Don't get caught up in the bs, just run manufacturer spec products, brand of your choosing, they are all good.
Normal intervals are wayyy too long. Try 0w40t6
I’ve heard once you use a synthetic oil you have to stick with it and not go back to conventional??
Corey Mogren that’s an old wives tale
You can go back and forth. Or mix them. I've done this many times and have over 270,000 miles. I have been using full synthetic the last two years. I've had the truck for 20 years now.
I just switch in November and then back at the end of March, fuck with the Schaeffer's because of the shear stability. 07 f350 6.0
What are you saying, Schaeffer sheared too much?
Is 15-40 is a must for cali weather ?
We use 15-40 in south Louisiana and all of our truck run perfect with it
@@laneblount9888 how cold it gets in winter in the morning cold startups of those engines? Or do you use different oil in winter time?
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 we run 15w40 year round. In south Louisiana we only have a few mornings a year that are below freezing. Most winter mornings are in the low 40s
@@laneblount9888 around 0⁰f is where you would want to switch to a 5w40. Just to be safe if you are above 10⁰f you're find with the 15w40.
Do you use 15w40 even when its -10F
I had a very bad expierence withh Amsoil and I won't go near the stuff now.
highway miles
I don't believe your ideas 😁shell rotella is as good as anything
None of this made any sense and I feel dumber for watching it
Pick an oil and stick with it, that's the best thing to take away from this video. I use Rotella T4 and won't put anything else in my Duramax, I chose to go with that oil mostly because of availability, no matter where you are you can get Rotella 15/40 oil.
Does the USA have an obsession with oil brands? I'm a mechanic here in Ireland and oil brand is completely irrelevant to customers and garage's alike. Oil is chosen on its manufacturer spec, ie VW 507.00 etc and changed every 15000 KMS.
I can only run VW spec oil. Diesel ownership is so dogmatic.
What a waste of my time , this was the most brain dead BS I've ever heard about oil
The reason why your seals go out is because they’re changing oil synthetic oil eats carbon deposit synthetic oil will blow out your seals in your motor. If your engine engine has been ran on nothing but conventional oil.
There is no such thing as 100% synthetic oil at all, comes from base oil and filled with additives come on call yourself a mechanic
What should I run in my 1976 240D and 1974 peugeot both are non turbo and both use conventional oil in alabama I found fleet diesel oil straight 40weight for a great price $70 a gallon