AEK64 Build Log: Cleaning the Orange ALPS (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2018
- The AEK64 build log begins with cleaning up my orange ALPS switches using an ultrasonic cleaner. Yes, thanks to some very kind folks, I got my hands on some orange alps so I can finally start building my AEK64. I got my ALPS 64 PCB about 3 years ago, and the aluminium case about 5 months ago from the run of B stock cases that went up for sale.
My orange alps were in need of a clean, and so I bought a small and reasonably priced ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon. It seems to work pretty well, but I'm going to use it to clean a few more things before I give my final verdict. You can judge just how well in managed to clean these plastic parts from this video though.
Make sure you subscribe to follow the rest of this build, and let me know if you have any advice for me going forward. I'm very far from being an expert when it comes to anything is this hobby, let alone ALPS switches.
Affiliate Link to the cleaner I used: amzn.to/2EVZEI8
By using this link, if you buy the product, I will get a commission at no extra cost to yourself.
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It's a shame that old Alps are hard to find switch only (and pricey), crap when they are mildly dirty, and don't last as long as cherries or or IBM. But very cool switches and there's a large variety of them. And then there's Matias, which are brand new, have a mid sized variety and last AS long as Cherries! Though I'm a bit lucky because I found a good condition SKCL green board for the HUF equivlant of two bucks one time.
Yeah, it's nice they still have their fans, but I wish I could try out some different switches without so much effort. You're so lucky to have found that board with the greens!
Dry lube like RO59 is best for ALPS. Wet lube like Krytox will collect dust ultra fast with the dust-magnet design of ALPS.
Yeah, I'm definitely staying away from wet lube. I've heard RO59 praised and condemned by people, though. Have you tried it with ALPS?
Not using lube will damage the contacts faster. Even if it feels fine for now.I'm using some Ballistol PTFE spray, which dries to a white residue.To lube, put the sliders in a plastic bag, spray lube and shake them around to spread it properly.
Another note: rinsing with distilled water (you can clean the soap with running water first) is more important than using it inside the ultrasonic.
I think the method of putting them in a bag and shaking them, isn't one that is universally liked. I'd rather get the lube only where it's needed. I agree with you on the need for lube, and haven't used the keyboard for longer than a few minutes. Now that I have some lube, I can get on with it. Thanks for the note on rinsing. I'll use the special water for that from now on.
I mean plastics are self lubricating, so the contracts should also do fine. Or does it?
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Not all plastics are self lubricating, and even then the term is quite misleading in most cases, quite a few "self lubricating" plastics will slowly saricfice that plastic as "lube". And even with the better "self lubricating" materials, using lube will still greatly increase how long they last as it helps prevents scratches and wear from dust and debris, and even without any dust it still extends the usefull lifetime by a lot. Self lubricating basically just mean that the friction is relatively low, but that doesn't mean wear-free.
There will always be wear with moving parts, but better to put some of that burden on easily replacable lube then the switch parts themselves.
@@Oleg-oe1rc Thanks for the info, that makes total sense. I know it's incorrect but lube somehow feels like it gathers dust and make the situation worst.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Dust can be problematic with wet lube, just depends on the eviroment and how you apply it, but there are also dry lube products like graphite powder. Vast majority of situations dust really isn't an issue, but if you're in an area with a lot of dust constantly circulating around like a carpentry shop, can be worth looking into dry lubes. But depending in the exact application, wet lube can even be used to seal the switch in completely from the outside air. And while some applications it's unavoidable, sometimes having a lot of dust in the lube can be better than just a little bit of dry dust, especially for very closely fitted parts.
Cool project, I‘m looking forward to seeing the progress updates!
This shouldn't take long to get done now that I have cleaned the switches. Next is a lot of soldering.
Chokkan - Mech in Japan soldering is always the best part of building a keyboard in my opinion!
Yeah, I actually enjoy it now I have more space to do it. It makes me much less nervous now I don't have to do it in the front room while the family is out.
did you clean the contact plates and leaf plates as well
That residue was the factory applied dry lubricant.
Yep, problem is after such a long time, the switches are really inconsistent.
Tokyo60 is live on mASSdrop! The round 1 edition lacks rgb diffuser though
Yeah, it's finally live!
Hey, I need your advice. Isn't KPrepublic's HHKB case + DZ60 better (it's even cheaper) . I mean, tokyo60 is really cool but it does not look like a premium keyboard and its 1st round is somewhat meh
Is the KPRepublic one the one with the feet that kind of curl under with the transparent bottom? I think that one looks much less impressive than the Tokyo60, but it is much cheaper. The integrated top plate is a major plus point for the Tokyo60. If they can nail the manufacturing, the Tokyo60 will be really hard to beat.
Like you said, the lack of diffuser this time around will put a lot of people off, but I'm hoping it goes smoothly.
What is so special in this integrated plated?
Keyboards with integrated plates can feel more solid, since the plate and the top of the case is one piece, rather than being attached with screws like most cases.
sooo i have a nice AEK with orange ALPS, and i'd like to do a build like this.. but where to buy the PCB and case?
You can buy a PCB from Hasu on Geekhack, or Clueboard has some 60 %s in stock. You just have to email them, because they have not put them on their store. When they redesigned their PCB they added speakers that were too big. I had to desolder them.
The case you can get from Clueboard.co too, there is also a really nice looking 3d-printable case on Reddit.
I'm also currently designing my own alps case with an integrated plate.
The ALPS64 PCB you can get from Hasu when he does his regular group buys. I think one just finished last week, but he does run them fairly often. The case was pretty limited and you'd need to get one second hand. The ALPS 64 follows the standard 60% form factor, so you can make any case work, but if you use the AEK keycaps, you're going to have gaps toward the back of the keyboard.
I didn't know they still had stock of the AEK64, but it looks like they still have B and C stock in the Dents & Dings section of the site.
I have sourced some really clean Orange Alps for my build, should i lube them or leave them stock? and if i lube what should i use RO59? im new to alps
100% lube them, will extend the life of them significantly. With an everage MX switch I can totaly get not lubing, but with switches that rare best to do all you can to keep them going. Lube type really comes down to personal preference, even somewhat moreso than the switch itself. Most lube isn't very expensive and/or have cheap samples, so worth getting several and trying them each out in a switch or two; easy enough to clean out any you don't like.
Do not lube them if they are clean.