I’m running 35x12.50 tires on stock 3.73 gears and this maf mod mixed with a $50 cold air intake boosted my speed 10mph on the freeway. Shit would bog and I’d typically cruise around 55-65 and now I cruise 65-80! Thanks man! Also improves throttle response amazingly. Never been happier with my 3.0
What did you use to cut off that piece inside the maf sensor it looks like it’ll be difficult to fit something in there to cut it and I’m tempted to try it on my 2000 ranger
I believe this works by getting direct air flow to the maf sensor coil with the plate off,which tells the computer to run a higher performance set of codes because ambient heat is not a restricting factor.
The Mass Air Flow sensor is kept at a specific temperature, say 200F. The computer knows how much air flows by how much voltage is required to keep the "hot wire" at said temperature. The more voltage needed to keep that temperature, the more air is flowing.
Nice video, I've read about this a lot but I hadn't heard that it was only for obd1 and wouldn't work on my '99. I have the same MAF, I may just try it out... So far headers, exhaust, and shift kit helped considerably for me and i'm considering trying this and/or swapping upper intakes next before my 3.0 turns into dust. Love the truck and really enjoying watching what you and the Taurus Performance guy are putting out recently.
Hey, ive never tried it on a non obd1 truck so i can't say for sure, but you can easily test it out. A cheap way is getting a metal maf from the junk yard, chopping it up and putting your good maf sensor in the modded housing. If it doesn't like it, just put your sensor back in its original housing.
I didn't notice much, I forget I even did it. I think it is what made my high positive fuel trims, but they're not high enough to throw a code so... whatever. IMHO I don't think the MAF is much of a restriction. I feel like I got a noticeable improvement from TB and porting intakes, but nothing out of the MAF.
@@DubstepMagiic Shouldn't hurt to try. If something isn't horribly off the ECU will still adjust based on 02 sensors. For the TB it's super easy. I kept my aluminum intake so that I could port it all out, and so I found a BBK 56mm for a mustang on a wrecked Taurus... I forget the model number, but it's bolt on and even came with a piece to hook it up to cruise control. If you switch to one of the newer composite intakes you can go for the 60mm throttle body swap and get it at a junkyard for cheap.. I just hate the way it looks lol.
I tried this today in my 1999 3.0 ranger, and it sounds like it’s cammed. Don’t get me wrong, I love the sound but my throttle response is slower and it’s now running too rich. Gonna be reverting back to stock. Throws a code and got fuel coming out the exhaust
I have a 1995 3.0 5spd and I need a maf but there are 2 for the truck and I have not been able to find one. The truck did not have a maf or the plug to connect to the maf when it was bought. Do you have the oval maf plug or the rectangular maf plug
The only reason this works is because it forces the engine to add more fuel because it senses more airflow than normal, and will deliver a positive fuel trim. Cutting the vane helps with the volumetric efficiency, but other than that this mod is a crude way to trick the engine into increasing fuel in the mix. This sensor doesn't measure air density, just air flow. You will have the same amount of air flow into the engine (with a slight benefit to deleting the obstructive vane) while causing the sensor to read higher air flow. This works because the ignition program and base tuning on the EEC-IV is doo doo. In a few months I'm hoping to deliver on a project that solves this for $4.
Did it on my 2000 4.0 v6 and did not work got code p0171. My fuel trim specs are stft was 42.2 and ltft was 16.2 on bank 1 and 2 idling also ect was 153 °f
Are we supposed to cut off that whole metal piece underneath the hot wires cuz he says just to cut off that thin piece but the one he shows that whole piece is off and it’s just the hole with the hot wires
it works on the 98’ too, gave me more torque and throttle is more snappy i spin 2nd gear from 30mph now and spin into bottom of 2nd gear from launch also not as boggy
Looks like ppl in the comments have a 2000 3.0 and it works for them too and the guy that made the vid has a older ranger so looks like it works for a lot of years.. 🤷🏻♂️
I believe if you get MAF cleaner, you can spray it directly on the wire. But I simply just took the wire out while I cut everything out and cleaned it while the wire was out so no contaminants would get on it
I got an 03' Ranger with 3.0 and it's completely stock accept for cutting out the stock muffler and running duel tailpipes with splitter from the cherry bomb
I had an extra housing so I did it anyways and it works. No check engine light or anything. It’s a little more peppy when I take off. Easier to get to cruising speeds
I appreciate your videos.. I added a Mustang GT 5.0 throttle body which is 60mm, and like your idea of increasing the airflow of the MAF. That said, there’s going to be greater airflow through the MAF that it is reading, which will cause a lean condition. I’m torn between this method, and just buying a larger MAF.......say from a Mustang 5.0 or 4.0. Either way, I think a tuner should check the fuel mapping and alter it as necessary. What say you? You’ve installed a chip too, haven’t you?
You’re right it would initially lean it out since a calibrated percentage of air goes over that sensor but it shouldn’t be too lean to do damage until your o2 sensors warm up,pick it up, and recalibrate the pcm for the conditions. It’ll then factor that in future starts until the battery is disconnected. So long as we aren’t pushing fuel trim limits it should be A OK and no different to the car than having it towed down a mountain and started at the bottom.
Not only are the MAF screws TORX, it's the Security TORX variety, a whole another animal. See that nub in the middle? A standard TORX screwdriver or bit will not work. I deal with the security TORX screws all the time when I custom build Gamer Computers.
Why not just remove the back plate only? The air is going to flow straight through anyway... Maybe I will try taking the plate off only and not cut out anything...🤔
The Vulcan , going to try HP tuners. My next door neighbour is a vehicle technician, so he uses that, and I think that should work with Ford ECU, the problem is when I bring him a ford ranger and say I want power, he just shakes his head. He doesn’t understand the ranger love. Hahah
Mine is an 03 Ranger, so I think I'll have the same one as MrDcaps, but I'm going to check it out and see if I can modify it similarly. I have a Dremel tool with some attachments, and a hacksaw. I think a modification like this could work on a plastic piece as well.
The thing is what i was told it only works on the OBD1 rangers, because the ecu has three or 4 different stratagies. And the obd2 ecus don't work the same and need to be tuned. You can try it tho 👍
Update: don’t buy a cheap ebay MAF sensor for this 😂 mine failed after the truck sat for a couple of months. I’ll be doing this mod again tho sometime soon.
Your gonna get more power from getting yor heads redone, valve seats and gasket matching. You should mess to much with your mass air flow meter. I wouldnt condone this mod.
Ive ported the upper intake, ported and gasket matched the lower manifold to the intake ports to the head after porting the intake ports ever so slightly, installed a custom 1.7.1 roller rocker arm, and a 65mm TB, and headers, no cats, and have done much more. It isn't like this is done on the stock vehicle. Was told about this mod by a guy with a 250whp supercharged 3.0L and for me, i have no check engine lights or issues, just more low end grunt, and idles perfect. I'm constantly running the engine between 5700-5900 rpms with no issues either. That's why i give the specific year i was told 92-95 as i can't be sure other rangers won't have issues.
@@TheVulcan i am worrisome because that blade is to smooth out the air flow for a more accurate reading. It could not cause any issues, or it could be leaning your fuel trims out, and making it feel like it has more power, or actually making more power. No real way to verify with out a wide band, and a scantool to read mass air flow data.
Your missing the point... Most people with these trucks use em as beaters and don't want to spend 600-1000$ on head work for more power, this is a simple mod that can give you 5-10hp for cheap
@@LENTODAWG702 he can't knock something until he tries it. NOT all vehicle ecu strategies work the same way. In the ranger it could add power. It could blow up a subaru And toyota, and do nothing on a dodge.
I’m running 35x12.50 tires on stock 3.73 gears and this maf mod mixed with a $50 cold air intake boosted my speed 10mph on the freeway. Shit would bog and I’d typically cruise around 55-65 and now I cruise 65-80! Thanks man! Also improves throttle response amazingly. Never been happier with my 3.0
Edit out the music so I can hear you better !!
I have a 2000 ranger and did this mod and I noticed a good difference in doing this. So hell yea
How’s it doing now?
@@Ga_Bass_Angler the mod is still doing good. And. Truck runs a lot better. .
What did you use to cut off that piece inside the maf sensor it looks like it’ll be difficult to fit something in there to cut it and I’m tempted to try it on my 2000 ranger
I believe this works by getting direct air flow to the maf sensor coil with the plate off,which tells the computer to run a higher performance set of codes because ambient heat is not a restricting factor.
Can you just take off the plate off the back?
Works on the 2000 Ford ranger 3.0. did it to mine. Seems to definitely make a difference
Have you had any problems since then?
@@adanlopez5251 nope
Had you done anything else to increase the power of your truck?
@@Jordanslifts sold it a year later, an bought a 2019 f250 powerstroke
The reason it works is because your removing an OBSTRUCTION, it now allows more air to pass through instantly. Nice job bro. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The Mass Air Flow sensor is kept at a specific temperature, say 200F. The computer knows how much air flows by how much voltage is required to keep the "hot wire" at said temperature. The more voltage needed to keep that temperature, the more air is flowing.
Thanks for the great video. I'm going to do this on my 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 XLT 4X4 .
Did it work?
Why can’t I just do it to the maf on the truck? What’s the purpose for buying a new one?
Real question where did you get the reservoir tank from for your coolant and windshield wiper fluid?
It was stock on the ranger. Didn’t get it from anywhere
Nice video, I've read about this a lot but I hadn't heard that it was only for obd1 and wouldn't work on my '99. I have the same MAF, I may just try it out... So far headers, exhaust, and shift kit helped considerably for me and i'm considering trying this and/or swapping upper intakes next before my 3.0 turns into dust.
Love the truck and really enjoying watching what you and the Taurus Performance guy are putting out recently.
Hey, ive never tried it on a non obd1 truck so i can't say for sure, but you can easily test it out. A cheap way is getting a metal maf from the junk yard, chopping it up and putting your good maf sensor in the modded housing. If it doesn't like it, just put your sensor back in its original housing.
How’d the maf mod go?
I didn't notice much, I forget I even did it. I think it is what made my high positive fuel trims, but they're not high enough to throw a code so... whatever. IMHO I don't think the MAF is much of a restriction. I feel like I got a noticeable improvement from TB and porting intakes, but nothing out of the MAF.
@@LeviGC93 ahh damn. I was just about to do it because I also have a 99 ranger. How hard was the throttle body ?
@@DubstepMagiic Shouldn't hurt to try. If something isn't horribly off the ECU will still adjust based on 02 sensors. For the TB it's super easy. I kept my aluminum intake so that I could port it all out, and so I found a BBK 56mm for a mustang on a wrecked Taurus... I forget the model number, but it's bolt on and even came with a piece to hook it up to cruise control. If you switch to one of the newer composite intakes you can go for the 60mm throttle body swap and get it at a junkyard for cheap.. I just hate the way it looks lol.
what can i do too the 2000' 3.0 intake setup? what would you recommend for the 00' 3.0 for intake swaps/porting? etc..
?
Chill the tunes, dude!
I tried this today in my 1999 3.0 ranger, and it sounds like it’s cammed. Don’t get me wrong, I love the sound but my throttle response is slower and it’s now running too rich. Gonna be reverting back to stock. Throws a code and got fuel coming out the exhaust
Keep your tips coming and thanks for sharing
I have a 1995 3.0 5spd and I need a maf but there are 2 for the truck and I have not been able to find one. The truck did not have a maf or the plug to connect to the maf when it was bought. Do you have the oval maf plug or the rectangular maf plug
The only reason this works is because it forces the engine to add more fuel because it senses more airflow than normal, and will deliver a positive fuel trim. Cutting the vane helps with the volumetric efficiency, but other than that this mod is a crude way to trick the engine into increasing fuel in the mix. This sensor doesn't measure air density, just air flow. You will have the same amount of air flow into the engine (with a slight benefit to deleting the obstructive vane) while causing the sensor to read higher air flow.
This works because the ignition program and base tuning on the EEC-IV is doo doo. In a few months I'm hoping to deliver on a project that solves this for $4.
Did you ever deliver said project?
Did it on my 2000 4.0 v6 and did not work got code p0171. My fuel trim specs are stft was 42.2 and ltft was 16.2 on bank 1 and 2 idling also ect was 153 °f
Are we supposed to cut off that whole metal piece underneath the hot wires cuz he says just to cut off that thin piece but the one he shows that whole piece is off and it’s just the hole with the hot wires
@@massi8567 cut of everything below the hot wire
This this might work on the 98 ford ranger 3.0l manual transmission?
it works on the 98’ too, gave me more torque and throttle is more snappy i spin 2nd gear from 30mph now and spin into bottom of 2nd gear from launch also not as boggy
Do I have to have an aftermarket air filter or intake for this to work properly?
No you don't. Just don't damage the wire.
I have a 1996 Ranger with 3.0, is this mod year specific or for any 3.0 with a MAF like that?
Looks like ppl in the comments have a 2000 3.0 and it works for them too and the guy that made the vid has a older ranger so looks like it works for a lot of years.. 🤷🏻♂️
Technically that would lean out a little bit because the increased cross sectional volume was increased = decreased airspeed velocity.
How's the gas milage?
Turn off the music. Can't hear you over the horrid re-done 80's synth.
Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it. The music... not so much (irritatingly as loud as your vioce). Cheers.
Yes the music is too loud and annoying and he doesn’t get to point or simply describe what he’s doing. I guess buy a new one and gutt it and reinstall
Did this on my 98 tonight it still seems a little sluggish just might have to relearn the maf but I’ll update ya if it starts working
Did it work??
Do I need to clean it with the MAF in it, or do I pull the MAF when I spray the cleaner?
I believe if you get MAF cleaner, you can spray it directly on the wire. But I simply just took the wire out while I cut everything out and cleaned it while the wire was out so no contaminants would get on it
I was wondering what you do for gaskets like for the lower intake or upper intake manifold?
If metal upper use paper gasket, for plastic upper use the rubber ones. For the lower intake i just use the felpro set
The Vulcan When you port and polish that doesn’t affect the gasket size? Or do you trim the gasket to match
@@pawdre5151 they are porti g to match the gasket, therefore no gasket mods are necessary.
Would it throw a code?
07 ford taurus se 3.0 wouldn't this be the same motor a vulcan?
Yes
What if the 3.0 doesn't have a maf sensor could I still throw one in?
Mike Jones all 3.0s have a maf
And no point I’d say, u already have an unmeasured air intake
I got an 03' Ranger with 3.0 and it's completely stock accept for cutting out the stock muffler and running duel tailpipes with splitter from the cherry bomb
Think this may work on a 99 Taurus?
Id only recommend to modification on OBD1 pre 96 3.0L vehicles
This video could have been 30sec long....
So after 95 they added new MAF layouts and this mod may work?
Yeah 96 and up have a different maf stratagies because its an 0bd2 system
I had an extra housing so I did it anyways and it works. No check engine light or anything. It’s a little more peppy when I take off. Easier to get to cruising speeds
Would it work on a 2.3 engine?
I don't know for sure
Fuck, I want to try this on my 2.3
I appreciate your videos.. I added a Mustang GT 5.0 throttle body which is 60mm, and like your idea of increasing the airflow of the MAF. That said, there’s going to be greater airflow through the MAF that it is reading, which will cause a lean condition. I’m torn between this method, and just buying a larger MAF.......say from a Mustang 5.0 or 4.0. Either way, I think a tuner should check the fuel mapping and alter it as necessary. What say you? You’ve installed a chip too, haven’t you?
You’re right it would initially lean it out since a calibrated percentage of air goes over that sensor but it shouldn’t be too lean to do damage until your o2 sensors warm up,pick it up, and recalibrate the pcm for the conditions. It’ll then factor that in future starts until the battery is disconnected. So long as we aren’t pushing fuel trim limits it should be A OK and no different to the car than having it towed down a mountain and started at the bottom.
Will it take limp mode away 8:12
You need a brand new maf for this mod.
@@TheVulcan Why? Why cant I do it to my original maf??
Not only are the MAF screws TORX, it's the Security TORX variety, a whole another animal. See that nub in the middle? A standard TORX screwdriver or bit will not work. I deal with the security TORX screws all the time when I custom build Gamer Computers.
Why not just remove the back plate only? The air is going to flow straight through anyway... Maybe I will try taking the plate off only and not cut out anything...🤔
Does this mod work with the taurus intake or stand alone from the original intake?
It makes a difference no matter the intake being used. But it can work with all 3.0L intakes
My 93 2.3 ford tempo got the same mass airflow
I have the 2006 3.0L ranger, and I don’t have this MAF. 😭😭😭
You'll have to stick with getting it tuned
The Vulcan , going to try HP tuners. My next door neighbour is a vehicle technician, so he uses that, and I think that should work with Ford ECU, the problem is when I bring him a ford ranger and say I want power, he just shakes his head. He doesn’t understand the ranger love. Hahah
Mine is an 03 Ranger, so I think I'll have the same one as MrDcaps, but I'm going to check it out and see if I can modify it similarly. I have a Dremel tool with some attachments, and a hacksaw. I think a modification like this could work on a plastic piece as well.
White Horse I was thinking the same thing! 🧐 let me know how it goes!
The thing is what i was told it only works on the OBD1 rangers, because the ecu has three or 4 different stratagies. And the obd2 ecus don't work the same and need to be tuned. You can try it tho 👍
I go to try it
Update: don’t buy a cheap ebay MAF sensor for this 😂 mine failed after the truck sat for a couple of months. I’ll be doing this mod again tho sometime soon.
Yeeaaahhh. Gotta get one close to OEM
@@TheVulcan yo I’m considering the rocker arms you’re running. Do you think it’s necessary to get stiffer valve springs?
Nah im running 1.7.1 ratio just fine. I recommend get them for 1.8.1 and higher
You’re running the 1.7.1 because of your cam correct? I will be going with the 1.8.1s since I’m keeping the stock cam
Yep, can’t hear you
Looks identical to urs but for some reason idles like its got a cam and struggles to idle
Check the vacuum hoses on the right side of the engine. It might be disconnected causing it to sound cammed
also possibly adjust your idle air screw, I had an issue with a very low idle because the crew got bumped back when I rebuilt my engine
This work on my 92 3.0
The music is too quiet man turn it up
Music is too distracting
Your gonna get more power from getting yor heads redone, valve seats and gasket matching. You should mess to much with your mass air flow meter. I wouldnt condone this mod.
Ive ported the upper intake, ported and gasket matched the lower manifold to the intake ports to the head after porting the intake ports ever so slightly, installed a custom 1.7.1 roller rocker arm, and a 65mm TB, and headers, no cats, and have done much more. It isn't like this is done on the stock vehicle. Was told about this mod by a guy with a 250whp supercharged 3.0L and for me, i have no check engine lights or issues, just more low end grunt, and idles perfect. I'm constantly running the engine between 5700-5900 rpms with no issues either. That's why i give the specific year i was told 92-95 as i can't be sure other rangers won't have issues.
@@TheVulcan i am worrisome because that blade is to smooth out the air flow for a more accurate reading. It could not cause any issues, or it could be leaning your fuel trims out, and making it feel like it has more power, or actually making more power. No real way to verify with out a wide band, and a scantool to read mass air flow data.
Your missing the point... Most people with these trucks use em as beaters and don't want to spend 600-1000$ on head work for more power, this is a simple mod that can give you 5-10hp for cheap
My mechanic told me that this is not good for a stock motor
I've had no issue and it accelerates faster, and no check engine light. If you don't want to do it. Listen to your mechanic
@@TheVulcan I already did it I was telling him about it he shook his head in disappointment hahah hes on older guy he hates all these ideas haha
@@LENTODAWG702 he can't knock something until he tries it. NOT all vehicle ecu strategies work the same way. In the ranger it could add power. It could blow up a subaru And toyota, and do nothing on a dodge.
Don’t do it. It’s an aftermarket MASS.
No its not. Its a factory one. I did mine & went further into it than he did. I ported the whole thing & it works great.
@@edmelungeon2239 does it relaly work