How to rebuild Porsche brake calipers on a Porsche 911 912 front M brake calipers.
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2020
- This video is how to rebuild Porsche 911 912 brake calipers on an early front M caliper which is found on most early cars. You can pick up the ATE brake rebuild kit which includes the new cylinder seal, the rubber dust boot, the snap ring and new pin clips. Cost is about $15 per caliper for the ATE kit or $7 for the Amazon kit (see link below), and about a liter or two of brake fluid ATE SuperBlue.
Jack up your Porsche 911 912, you can find a video on how to do this below. Next pull off the wheel and set it aside. You'll need a 19mm wrench to remove the two bolts holding on the caliper to the spindle, and a 15mm to remove the banjo nut holding on the brake fluid line to the caliper.
Getting the pistons out of the calipers will be the hardest part, you'll need an air compressor to force air into the hole left by removing the banjo nut in the Porsche 911 912 front M caliper. Have a big screwdriver or a 1/4 inch wood block set between the two pistons. As you keep the compressed air going into the caliper those two pistons will start to work their way out of their cylinders. Take your time and keep the air blowing and they will come out.
The rest is easy, new rubber seals inside, a rubber dust boot outside held on with a metal snap ring. In this Porsche 911 912 brake caliper rebuild we are not breaking the two halves apart at this time. You can finish this job in a day or weekend with plenty of beer breaks on your brakes.
Links to parts on Amazon:
Brake Rebuild Kit: amzn.to/3icseop
Brake Fluid: amzn.to/3dNGJvr
Other videos in the Porsche 911 912 Front End Rebuild Series
How to remove the front suspension of a Porsche 911 912: • Porsche 911 912 Suspen...
How to prep and clean up your Porsche 911 912 front suspension: • Porsche 911 912 Suspen...
How to replace Porsche 911 912 front wheel bearings: • How to replace Porsche...
How to rebuild front brake calipers on Porsche 911 912: • How to rebuild Porsche... 
Авто/Мото
Thanks for showing all the little details that most people skip over or assume that everyone knows! I’m very green and just started trying to bring my 77’ 911 back to life that I got from my dad when he passed.
Just last night I spent two hours trying to get the rear calipers off, got stuck with getting that lower caliper bolt out that is in a tight spot between the caliper and the trailing arm. Don’t have a socket or wrench that fits in that tight spot lol.
You betcha, I tried to do my best, some of my early video work lol thanks man!
Treating precision parts like a blacksmith
Gotta get them darn things out! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video well explained! Thank you. A+
Glad you liked it! I appreciate you watching and leaving a few kind words
@@ArrowheadGarage It's people like you who "pay it forward" in the way you do here, that makes the world a better place! A+
What year is the car you’re working on? Mine is a ‘67 and my front pistons don’t have that pin.
My car is a 1967 Porsche 912, you're should have it...
Great video! Did those calipers leak with that worn out boot on the piston?
No, the inner rubber ring inside the cylinder holds the brake fluid, the boot just keeps water/dust out of the piston. Thanks for watching!
wonderful. thanks for the video
You are welcome! Let me know if you have any questions.
Would this kit also work on back and front calipers?
It should as long as they are both M calipers
@@ArrowheadGarage thanks for the reply and good content, 2 other questions, what kind of fitting did you use to hook the compressor up to the hard line, and is there any trick to not letting the brake fluid pour out when disconnecting the caliper and hard line
No because of differnt diameter
“Put it in like that”. Meanwhile, his hands are blocking the view of the camera and you have no idea what “like that” is…. He is trying to show the viewer the orientation of the piston with the raised and lowered area he has said are to prevent brake squealing. He says to orient it like a clock with the 6 o’clock and one o’clock positions noted. However, when you get a small glimpse of what he is doing, when his hands aren’t in the way, it looks like the “6 o’clock” is actually more like 4 o’clock.
It’s literally painful to watch this guy work. He says to use the denatured alcohol to clean the red rubber grease off the exposed part of the piston before he tries to put the rubber seal on. He gets about a third of the red rubber grease cleaned off and moves on. Ouch!
As soon as I saw him using a nail set where he should use a driving pin to remove the pad retaining pins, no wait, as soon as I saw him using the wrong pliers to remove the first chrome pins I was skeptical. Then he not only uses a nail set as a driving tool, he is hitting the steel nail set with a hard plastic hammer. Does it work? Sort of, yes, but both are the wrong tools, just like the square “needle nose” pliers were the wrong tool. Then, throughout the video, he calls a slot a hole, says down when it is on the side, and so on and so on. Extremely poorly done over all. And we are talking about brakes here.