You took 3 chances, not two. The 24mm, the 35mm and the most important one, you put Alejandra sitting on a ledge (and loosing such a beautiful girl would have been a lose to humanity). I see my friend that you are going all over the world; I envy you now that I am old. For many years that used to be my work; I covered 37 countries for close to 30 years. A great experience although not very good for maintaining a family relationship back home.- Great shoot, keep them coming ! I'll be in Madrid at the beginning of the year; hope you left some jamon iberico there for me.
Alejandra put herself on the ledge, it was her choice. And the ledge is not a drop to the ground, the wall she's sitting on is a divider between roofs. She was not in danger of bodily harm.
Well done. It's appreciated that you show simple techniques that are easy to try, even with other brands of equipment. Thanks for this useful information; it all helps.
I thought the same thing. I like the effect of it not being obvious at all that there was a flash used, which to me is the true intention of fill flash. And move the flash more off angle. Was a little too straight on for my taste.
You and Gavin Hoey explains settings on camera and flash very well! When you meter for the ambient light using the camera light meter on manual mode, do you set your meter reading on the camera to SPOT METERING, CENTERWEIGHT METERING, or EVALUATIVE METERING? I think this makes a lot of difference. My guess will be EVALUATIVE METERING. The model should be very careful sitting on that ledge! That is a pretty high fall!
4 года назад+6
The model is so beautiful! And the trick is very easy to apply :) many thanks
Thank you for the video, however I am unable to reconcile the settings with the setting. F4/iso100/180th and overcast, was he using an ND filter or is leaf shutter speeds different from dslr shutters? In my head those setting would not work outdoors, the pic would be washed out. Am I incorrect?
I shoot with 35mm all the time for portraits. Gives the frame a nice commercial like feel and when you get closer, had a touch of distortion for that characteristic feel I love it. Heck that 28mm is even more awesome I LOVE how it took the frames. There's no such thing as "portrait lens". A lens used correctly will give you fantastic results. Now not saying shoot a 10-18mm at 10mm but I mean if it works it works but this vid shows the 28mm really puttin work in. Great shot!
Question: Instead of using the camera's built in metering to get my ambient reading, could I not use a light meter to do the same? Would this potentially be more accurate?
It's good to know you are in Colombia. Medellin is such a beautifull city. But I must warn you, Mark. Be carefull. Each year so many travelers fall in love with colombia (some of them not just with the country). Greetings from Bogota. Great video. Great model, so beautiful, so talented. I really like that profoto B2 you use. Great portable flash.
Thanks! It's still looks kinda hard to shoot manual on weddings, do you use aperture mode? I got goddox flashlight, and after 3 hours, of a first experience with it i found it extremeeeeely difficult to use. First, it won't give me the exposure compensation. +/- while in Auto mode( why!?) I wish i could shot Auto, playing ONLY with the light intensity bigger smaller( that's all i want) It works only in camera's manual mode. Second i got Canon 80D there is no way to see exposure preview before hitting bthe shutter button ( like in canon m50, or Canon R) I think I have to practice more, but in the end if the day, all I want is simply shoot Auto, and be able to soften, or straighten the lights. If it's a pool party, it's okay. You have enough light But shooting manual some weddings sounds too crazy to me:-) You can, but only if you have the exposure preview. Like R, or canon M50 does. Otherwise it's gonna be a big pain in the ass setting the right exposure after each single shot.
Ideally, you'd meter for the background. Though if you take a light reading from a bright sky, you'll end up with an underexposed image. Better to meter for the ground below the sky.
Thanks, Mark! One question (I apologize if you've already answered it among the 80 comments so far). When you shot with the 28 mm lens, and you had Alejandra way off to the left-hand margin, weren't your worried about lens distortion? I sure didn't see any, but I was surprised you put her in that place with that wide a lens.
That was my question too. Spot, Center-weighed, or Evaluative metering for the background exposure using the camera on manual mode and using the camera light meter.
Set your flash to manual mode dial in a number like 1/4 power, take a test shot, review and fine tune if needed (dial up or down the power). How much power you need will depend on the flash, distance to subject and whether you are using modifiers or not.
I used to be totally confused by flash photography, then I read a tip which turned things around for me (no, this isn't spam, I'm not selling any advice, I honestly don't remember where I got the advice). The first part of this video matches that tip; specifically, set camera to manual and adjust settings (SS at Sync Speed, of course) so that the ambient light is at the desired level (with flash disconnected). Actually, it's probably easier to just use LiveView (yes, even in the Leica) as you change ISO, SS and Aperture, but makes no difference. Take several test shots if necessary. Then, in the tip, you simply attach/turn on the flash and take a test shot to see how the backlit subject looks. Adjust "to taste" with FC. This is where I get confused by the video: I understand the incident light meter, I think, but "adjusting flash to F4" I don't understand. Do you then change the aperture on the camera, or is it on the flash? Perhaps I don't understand meters and flash units as much as I thought.
It's actually pretty simple. Say you want to shoot at f/4, on your light meter dial in the shutter speed and ISO values you want (these will be the same values you're using on your camera, of course). Then raise or lower your flash power on your subject till your light meter reads f/4. Hope that helps.
when you metered the ambient, did you aim the camera at her or the background. Also, I'm a little confused, if you are shooting in manual aren't the shutter, aperture and iso already determined?
Love your photos and she is a beautiful girl. What I fail to understand is just “how do you match the flash with the ambient exposure”? You have two variables, f stop and flash power. How do you determine flash power or an adjustment to f stop?
Keep adjusting the power output of the flash until it matches the ambient light exposure. In other words - if the ambient light exposure looks good at say f4, choose a flash output setting that also gives a proper exposure at f4.
Try setting it to 1/4 power intially and go from there. Use the flash in manual mode and take a test shot and review. Then you can adjust the flash level as needed (dial up or dial down the power). The amount of flash you need will depend on the power of the unit, distance to subject and whether you are using any modifiers such as an umbrella or softbox. Like most things it's just practice. Over time it will become second nature to you and your initial settings will become more accurate. Good luck.
Peter Lemke how much do you need to change the camera settings to compensate the the flash? I’ve seen videos where people are using over 1/2000 @ iso 400 and f2.8.... why such a fast shutter speed? I tried it and it justa over exposes my pics
@@davidperez4381 You shouldn't need to change camera settings to compensate for the flash. Get your camera settings right first when you're metering for the ambient light in the background. You shouldn't have to change them much at all after that. After you have the camera settings finalised, you can add the flash. The reason some people may be using 1/2000 @ iso 400 and f2.8 would likely be shallow depth of field. If you're getting overexposed images, drop the iso and if that's not enough, add an ND filter.
Dear Sir, please show the details of ambient light measurement technique (without flash), to find the aperture value using the built in meter with iso 100 and sync speed 160 or 180. I have a Sony alpha A-58 camera. Can this camera be used to find the aperture value using the built in meter. Please tell me details of how to see the built in meter. Thanks.
That made me nervous, as well. At least he put the light meter on the table (instead of the ledge) to keep it safer. I don't want to think about that beautiful little Sekonic hitting the ground like that.
Zion Lutheran Church It’s a bit deceiving. It looks like she’s on the edge of a long drop, but she’s not. There is more roof just on the other side of her. Looks dangerous but was very safe.
at manual,the camera is metering at f4, to balance the flash, Mark is using a light meter, not metering with the camera for flash, so the light meter waits for the flash to fire, when it fires a reading is taken on the light meter and shows the valus, first time it was at 3.6 I think, then with the master remote He puts more flash power, the light meter the second time the flash fires is at f4, so now it is balanced, I hope this help
A useful and well done tutorial Mark, as always. And thank you for using a model without visible tattoos and piercings. I don't have an issue with people having either of them but do find them very distracting in shooting unless they are part of the concept.
Those flash meters are crazy expensive. I'm using a tt350 with a t1x trigger on my panasonic g9. Do you have any advice on how I can still get a reasonably good exposure without having to purchase a meter?
Mark loved this informative video. Using the 35mm and 28mm for portraits really got me going. I was really impressed with the lack of distortion of the subject with the off-center composition. That blew my mind. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
If you're using a fully manual flash like mine, do some test shots at different power settings until it looks just right. Some shots will look too bright and some will look too dark. Keep adjusting until the flash exposure looks good to your eyes.
Thanks for this video. I really like the flash fall off and the nice separation from the background plus it's the perfect amount of bokeh so as to still get a feel for the location. I love these short and to the point videos, keep up the good work sir! Cheers from Seattle.
I really like the videos that are taken in. I'm just wondering that when Mark is speaking of a lense as a 35mm or 28mm is he talking about it as a 35mm equivalent?
really nice tuto. i feel more comfortable with this manual flash mode than with TTL. and you ? i'd be interested to see how you do the same with 1/2000sec to make background darker (flashmeter doesn't measure correctly so trial and error with flash ?) and also with a good ND filter to keep shutte speed at 1/180sec.
As Guy Yowell noted below: "You're not explaining how you adjusted the flash power." I know how to adjust the power......just not how to sync it with the ambient light settings. Thanks for always doing such a great job explaining the basics.
he said meter to expose the background and adust the power to your liking or to match. there is no special setting. a lot of flash photography outdoors is for personal taste.
Hi, he used the light meter to adjust it to f4. With the light meter in her hands, Mark press on the master on the camera and the flash fires, then the meter takes a reading, if not f4 like ambient, with the master he puts more power and the flash fires again and if correct then the meter is at f4 Hpe this help.
Mark I just love your videos, they are so upbeat and full of great advice. I have a question about this one though. I'm wondering why you have the flash so low rather than slightly pointing down? I also wondered why you didn't choose to have the flash more off angle from you to avoid an on camera flash look.
Excellent tutorial - lays out the process very clearly - my only negative comment - I would not have been comfortable to have the model sitting on a ledge like that - especially when she had both legs up in the top of the ledge. Risky situation for a fall.
If you were inside shooting at f2.8 and speed of 60 (my camera sync speed) and the ambient light requires an ISO of 3200, would your set up be the same or would you decrease the ISO and increase the strobes flash?
My issue is why place the flash so so far away from the subject? The quality of the light gets softer the larger and closer it is to the subject. Therefore, placing the light source further away from the subject makes the light quality harder. You mentioned softer light in the video. If you place the light source closer to the subject, the light would be softer.
At that point you have to just do it by eye and adjust your flash to taste. Only one light meter is said to be able to measure High Speed Sync now, and that's the Sekonic L-858 series. I don't know how well it does this as I've never tried it and there's not much online about how effective it does this. But adjusting by eye to taste is easy. You just have to make sure you have a powerful enough light to do HSS as the farther past your flash sync speed you go the more power HSS robs your flash of (less than your flash's full power is available to you when using HSS, in other words).
For me, the photo with the softbox are looking great. But when it comes to 24mm the model looks like in front of a photographic wallpaper. Anyways, great video. Thanks you.
I don't use a light meter, I take some test shots first. If you do it enough you get a feel for it, but always test first. I usually use my flash guns in manual mode so I have a good idea of how much light they will put out every time regardless of the ambient lighting.
Mark, I love your teaching! I'm confused about something here. I understand EV but when I use my flash meter my hand held meter (all meters, apparently) have a button that switches between EV and f number. However,all meters throw out CRAZY EV values that make no sense to me (i.e. 12.1). Why isn't it EV 0 instead? Would you PLEASE make a video on this topic because I can't find ANY RUclips videos about this by any photographer. I know you understand if anyone does. Thanks for your kind help! And I'll keep watching!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I am a fan of marc and gavin :D These guys are true teachers in photography and I grew up with them yay!
Awesome! Pretty model.👍👍
What a gorgeous model!!!
You took 3 chances, not two. The 24mm, the 35mm and the most important one, you put Alejandra sitting on a ledge (and loosing such a beautiful girl would have been a lose to humanity). I see my friend that you are going all over the world; I envy you now that I am old. For many years that used to be my work; I covered 37 countries for close to 30 years. A great experience although not very good for maintaining a family relationship back home.- Great shoot, keep them coming ! I'll be in Madrid at the beginning of the year; hope you left some jamon iberico there for me.
Alejandra put herself on the ledge, it was her choice. And the ledge is not a drop to the ground, the wall she's sitting on is a divider between roofs. She was not in danger of bodily harm.
thank you for the helpful video!does the soft box affect the exposure of the flash?
Well done. It's appreciated that you show simple techniques that are easy to try, even with other brands of equipment. Thanks for this useful information; it all helps.
Absolutely love Mark's videos !!
this is the proper way to shoot flash with ambient, thanks
What a great cute model!! Photos are nice!
Love the videos, but what focus mode did you use?
EXCELLENT explanation. Going to buy a light meter now...
Mark is always on point with his A game. One of my fav photogs to watch. Thanks 😘
Hello Mark and thank you for this new video. For my taste, I would underexpose just a little bit the flash to get a more natural light. 😉
Toto Lehero agree💯
I thought the same thing. I like the effect of it not being obvious at all that there was a flash used, which to me is the true intention of fill flash. And move the flash more off angle. Was a little too straight on for my taste.
You and Gavin Hoey explains settings on camera and flash very well! When you meter for the ambient light using the camera light meter on manual mode, do you set your meter reading on the camera to SPOT METERING, CENTERWEIGHT METERING, or EVALUATIVE METERING? I think this makes a lot of difference. My guess will be EVALUATIVE METERING. The model should be very careful sitting on that ledge! That is a pretty high fall!
The model is so beautiful! And the trick is very easy to apply :) many thanks
Thank you for the video, however I am unable to reconcile the settings with the setting. F4/iso100/180th and overcast, was he using an ND filter or is leaf shutter speeds different from dslr shutters? In my head those setting would not work outdoors, the pic would be washed out. Am I incorrect?
More videos please , What a beautiful model !
I shoot with 35mm all the time for portraits. Gives the frame a nice commercial like feel and when you get closer, had a touch of distortion for that characteristic feel I love it. Heck that 28mm is even more awesome I LOVE how it took the frames. There's no such thing as "portrait lens". A lens used correctly will give you fantastic results. Now not saying shoot a 10-18mm at 10mm but I mean if it works it works but this vid shows the 28mm really puttin work in. Great shot!
Grt session nice take good lighting beautiful model full of enjoyment 🌹👍🌹
Question: Instead of using the camera's built in metering to get my ambient reading, could I not use a light meter to do the same? Would this potentially be more accurate?
Nice video. I love the terrace. Feels so refreshing being there.
Cool intuitive video, thanks Mark 👍
Thank you, Mark and Alejandra. The final shots look very nice.
It's good to know you are in Colombia. Medellin is such a beautifull city. But I must warn you, Mark. Be carefull. Each year so many travelers fall in love with colombia (some of them not just with the country).
Greetings from Bogota. Great video. Great model, so beautiful, so talented. I really like that profoto B2 you use. Great portable flash.
Me encanta colombia!
Thanks!
It's still looks kinda hard to shoot manual on weddings, do you use aperture mode?
I got goddox flashlight, and after 3 hours, of a first experience with it i found it extremeeeeely difficult to use.
First, it won't give me the exposure compensation. +/- while in Auto mode( why!?) I wish i could shot Auto, playing ONLY with the light intensity bigger smaller( that's all i want)
It works only in camera's manual mode.
Second i got Canon 80D there is no way to see exposure preview before hitting bthe shutter button ( like in canon m50, or Canon R)
I think I have to practice more, but in the end if the day, all I want is simply shoot Auto, and be able to soften, or straighten the lights.
If it's a pool party, it's okay. You have enough light But shooting manual some weddings sounds too crazy to me:-)
You can, but only if you have the exposure preview. Like R, or canon M50 does. Otherwise it's gonna be a big pain in the ass setting the right exposure after each single shot.
I alwas underspoxed 1/3 the flash light , it's perfect.!! thanks, good video
What metering mode would you use for this type of photography and why? Spot or evaluated? And where do you aim at the sky or the subject?
Just expose to where YOU like it. I like about a stop under for ambient
Ideally, you'd meter for the background. Though if you take a light reading from a bright sky, you'll end up with an underexposed image. Better to meter for the ground below the sky.
EXCELENTE !!! MARAVILLOSO !!! Gracias !!!
The 28mm looked great in that setting
Thanks, Mark! One question (I apologize if you've already answered it among the 80 comments so far). When you shot with the 28 mm lens, and you had Alejandra way off to the left-hand margin, weren't your worried about lens distortion? I sure didn't see any, but I was surprised you put her in that place with that wide a lens.
Mark, at 2:14 did you focus on the subject or the background/sky to set the exposure for the ambient light? did you use matrix metering mode?
That was my question too. Spot, Center-weighed, or Evaluative metering for the background exposure using the camera on manual mode and using the camera light meter.
If you do not have an external light meter, how do you balance your off camera flash as a fill flash.
Set your flash to manual mode dial in a number like 1/4 power, take a test shot, review and fine tune if needed (dial up or down the power). How much power you need will depend on the flash, distance to subject and whether you are using modifiers or not.
Beautiful model and a great tutorial!
Hi. Is your camera and flash both in manual modes? Best. William
Nice explanation.. I don't have a light meter.. so how do I make the process faster ? Trial n error method?
I used to be totally confused by flash photography, then I read a tip which turned things around for me (no, this isn't spam, I'm not selling any advice, I honestly don't remember where I got the advice). The first part of this video matches that tip; specifically, set camera to manual and adjust settings (SS at Sync Speed, of course) so that the ambient light is at the desired level (with flash disconnected). Actually, it's probably easier to just use LiveView (yes, even in the Leica) as you change ISO, SS and Aperture, but makes no difference. Take several test shots if necessary. Then, in the tip, you simply attach/turn on the flash and take a test shot to see how the backlit subject looks. Adjust "to taste" with FC. This is where I get confused by the video: I understand the incident light meter, I think, but "adjusting flash to F4" I don't understand. Do you then change the aperture on the camera, or is it on the flash? Perhaps I don't understand meters and flash units as much as I thought.
It's actually pretty simple. Say you want to shoot at f/4, on your light meter dial in the shutter speed and ISO values you want (these will be the same values you're using on your camera, of course). Then raise or lower your flash power on your subject till your light meter reads f/4. Hope that helps.
thanks for the video - could you pls make one more video on aperture priority , auto-ISO and flash if possible
when you metered the ambient, did you aim the camera at her or the background. Also, I'm a little confused, if you are shooting in manual aren't the shutter, aperture and iso already determined?
Dman Marc Wallace is back and the model is very nice.
what effect did the wider angle provide?
How many people actually use light meters? Every time the video gets to this point, I switch off unfortunately.
Do you use those same two steps (meter for the ambient light then meter for the strobe) for indoor (let’s say a ballroom) photography?
Love your photos and she is a beautiful girl. What I fail to understand is just “how do you match the flash with the ambient exposure”? You have two variables, f stop and flash power. How do you determine flash power or an adjustment to f stop?
Keep adjusting the power output of the flash until it matches the ambient light exposure. In other words - if the ambient light exposure looks good at say f4, choose a flash output setting that also gives a proper exposure at f4.
Beautiful shots Mark and Alejandra 🤩📸 Thank you for sharing and making adding a flash look so easy 🙏🏼
Sir can I use umbrella for diffuse light
Excuse me, how could I set up the flash if I don’t have a fancy light meter device, any advice?
Try setting it to 1/4 power intially and go from there. Use the flash in manual mode and take a test shot and review. Then you can adjust the flash level as needed (dial up or dial down the power). The amount of flash you need will depend on the power of the unit, distance to subject and whether you are using any modifiers such as an umbrella or softbox.
Like most things it's just practice. Over time it will become second nature to you and your initial settings will become more accurate. Good luck.
Peter Lemke how much do you need to change the camera settings to compensate the the flash? I’ve seen videos where people are using over 1/2000 @ iso 400 and f2.8.... why such a fast shutter speed? I tried it and it justa over exposes my pics
@@davidperez4381 You shouldn't need to change camera settings to compensate for the flash. Get your camera settings right first when you're metering for the ambient light in the background. You shouldn't have to change them much at all after that. After you have the camera settings finalised, you can add the flash. The reason some people may be using 1/2000 @ iso 400 and f2.8 would likely be shallow depth of field. If you're getting overexposed images, drop the iso and if that's not enough, add an ND filter.
Love the 28mm...especially the very last shot...
How would this scenario work if you wanted to mount the Profoto A1X? Leave to TTL ??? Any flash exposure comp?
Great instructional content - thank you Mark.
thank you very much Mark for sharing , I continue learning
Question so de fill light be 1 step down
Key light f4.0
Fill light f/5,6?any answer plz
I can't find the link to Hoey's video. Thanks
Dear Sir, please show the details of ambient light measurement technique (without flash), to find the aperture value using the built in meter with iso 100 and sync speed 160 or 180. I have a Sony alpha A-58 camera. Can this camera be used to find the aperture value using the built in meter. Please tell me details of how to see the built in meter.
Thanks.
So how much for that background? Air fare etc.?
Seeing Alejandro sitting on the edge of the roof made me really nervous. Great shots, especially the 28mm ones.
That made me nervous, as well. At least he put the light meter on the table (instead of the ledge) to keep it safer. I don't want to think about that beautiful little Sekonic hitting the ground like that.
Zion Lutheran Church It’s a bit deceiving. It looks like she’s on the edge of a long drop, but she’s not. There is more roof just on the other side of her. Looks dangerous but was very safe.
@@MarkWallaceVideos no Mark, I would not like to drop of the edge. You can organize this safer.
Did you use Matrix Metering?
i know your saying expose for ambient light then adjust flash, but my question is what metering mode are you using ?
thanks kevin
at manual,the camera is metering at f4, to balance the flash, Mark is using a light meter, not metering with the camera for flash, so the light meter waits for the flash to fire, when it fires a reading is taken on the light meter and shows the valus, first time it was at 3.6 I think, then with the master remote He puts more flash power, the light meter the second time the flash fires is at f4, so now it is balanced, I hope this help
A useful and well done tutorial Mark, as always. And thank you for using a model without visible tattoos and piercings. I don't have an issue with people having either of them but do find them very distracting in shooting unless they are part of the concept.
Great Video!
Those flash meters are crazy expensive. I'm using a tt350 with a t1x trigger on my panasonic g9. Do you have any advice on how I can still get a reasonably good exposure without having to purchase a meter?
One can get a Seconic for about only $200 USD. Not too bad, and a great tool to have in one’s bag.
I like the 28 and get closer. The last image. Thx for sharing the info
Mark loved this informative video. Using the 35mm and 28mm for portraits really got me going. I was really impressed with the lack of distortion of the subject with the off-center composition. That blew my mind. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
First thing I was thinking is "Don't let the model fall off of the roof". Secondly, what a great video regarding outdoor flash; thanks!
I think that's where the term " shooting tethered " comes from ! omg sorry about that..
is there an easy way to determine flash exposure without a light meter?
If you're using a fully manual flash like mine, do some test shots at different power settings until it looks just right. Some shots will look too bright and some will look too dark. Keep adjusting until the flash exposure looks good to your eyes.
Hi Mark could you share the location/city? Beautiful poses Alejandra Restrepo..keep on smiling :-) Excellent video thank you.
Medellín, Colombia.
Mark Wallace any chance you come and visit Cali? We’d love to have you here for the Cali Fair!
Thanks for this video. I really like the flash fall off and the nice separation from the background plus it's the perfect amount of bokeh so as to still get a feel for the location. I love these short and to the point videos, keep up the good work sir! Cheers from Seattle.
I really like the videos that are taken in. I'm just wondering that when Mark is speaking of a lense as a 35mm or 28mm is he talking about it as a 35mm equivalent?
Mark is shooting a Leica M9 (M8?), it's a full frame.
really nice tuto. i feel more comfortable with this manual flash mode than with TTL. and you ?
i'd be interested to see how you do the same with 1/2000sec to make background darker (flashmeter doesn't measure correctly so trial and error with flash ?) and also with a good ND filter to keep shutte speed at 1/180sec.
Perfect! Thanks Mark
Also, how far is too far for flash for both off- and on-camera flash?
Great video! Thanks for teaching us!
Mark, what do you think about the new Leica, the auto focus model that is supposed to be out soon.
I have not had a chance to see it in person, hopefully, I'll be able to take a look. If so, I'll make a video.
Good video. You missed to show "shooting in Av mode with using EC for bg". That is another method. Right?
It is, and a great one. I have made videos about that in the past, but I wanted to focus on the manual method for this video.
Sitting on the edge, sitting on the edge OMG OMG OMG
Have any recommendations on how to manage white balance with flash and ambient light?
If it's a sunny day, then there are no issues since the colour temperature of flash is just about the same as daylight more or less.
As Guy Yowell noted below: "You're not explaining how you adjusted the flash power." I know how to adjust the power......just not how to sync it with the ambient light settings. Thanks for always doing such a great job explaining the basics.
he said meter to expose the background and adust the power to your liking or to match. there is no special setting. a lot of flash photography outdoors is for personal taste.
Hi, he used the light meter to adjust it to f4. With the light meter in her hands, Mark press on the master on the camera and the flash fires, then the meter takes a reading, if not f4 like ambient, with the master he puts more power and the flash fires again and if correct then the meter is at f4 Hpe this help.
For everyone without a light meter, start with flash power low and take test shots increasing the flash power till it fills in the shadows.
@@christopherreddick5263 Great suggestion of yours!
Mark I just love your videos, they are so upbeat and full of great advice. I have a question about this one though. I'm wondering why you have the flash so low rather than slightly pointing down? I also wondered why you didn't choose to have the flash more off angle from you to avoid an on camera flash look.
Excellent tutorial - lays out the process very clearly - my only negative comment - I would not have been comfortable to have the model sitting on a ledge like that - especially when she had both legs up in the top of the ledge. Risky situation for a fall.
That is what I thought too!
What a beautiful girl! Great vid.
how do i get the correct flash exposure when i don`t have a light meter
Beautiful model
I don't see any links.
If you were inside shooting at f2.8 and speed of 60 (my camera sync speed) and the ambient light requires an ISO of 3200, would your set up be the same or would you decrease the ISO and increase the strobes flash?
That is a very high ISO. My guess is to fiddle with the flash power to balance the light.
Cool video. Nice simple set up
Nice job thanks you for sharing
Thank you, which metering mode was camera set to?
Evaluative metering.
realy like the 28 mm shots...
What's the size of the softbox? Thanks.
which metter to read the ambient light spot or any
My issue is why place the flash so so far away from the subject? The quality of the light gets softer the larger and closer it is to the subject. Therefore, placing the light source further away from the subject makes the light quality harder. You mentioned softer light in the video. If you place the light source closer to the subject, the light would be softer.
Do we really need to meter? I never used a meter
What about metering if you have to use high speed sync because of a high shutter speed??
At that point you have to just do it by eye and adjust your flash to taste. Only one light meter is said to be able to measure High Speed Sync now, and that's the Sekonic L-858 series. I don't know how well it does this as I've never tried it and there's not much online about how effective it does this. But adjusting by eye to taste is easy. You just have to make sure you have a powerful enough light to do HSS as the farther past your flash sync speed you go the more power HSS robs your flash of (less than your flash's full power is available to you when using HSS, in other words).
For an environmental shoot like this one, you would try to avoid using high speed sync, as your environment would be out of focus.
yes!! more videos w/her plz!
with live view/digital displays aren't light meters largely useless anymore?
For me, the photo with the softbox are looking great. But when it comes to 24mm the model looks like in front of a photographic wallpaper. Anyways, great video. Thanks you.
how about when i only have an external flashgun, without light meter how do i do the same thing? or just play with flash power?
I don't use a light meter, I take some test shots first. If you do it enough you get a feel for it, but always test first. I usually use my flash guns in manual mode so I have a good idea of how much light they will put out every time regardless of the ambient lighting.
When you have shot with and without flash often enough, you'll actually be able to nail the settings more quickly.
may i know what type lightstand used ...??
up
Mark, I love your teaching! I'm confused about something here. I understand EV but when I use my flash meter my hand held meter (all meters, apparently) have a button that switches between EV and f number. However,all meters throw out CRAZY EV values that make no sense to me (i.e. 12.1). Why isn't it EV 0 instead? Would you PLEASE make a video on this topic because I can't find ANY RUclips videos about this by any photographer. I know you understand if anyone does.
Thanks for your kind help! And I'll keep watching!
Maybe a stupid question, why are you shooting at the sync speed and not a bit slower. This would allow to use a smaller aperture
I liked the depth of field, and I wanted to reduce motion blur since I was shooting handheld.
28mm indeed looked better! 👌🏻