We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
At the 6:15 minute: I meant to say CAP full, not cup full of wax solution. We added a text overlay on the video to clarify that point, but for some reason the text no longer matches up to the correct moment in the video.
I wish you would have made this video a month ago.😂 I've been struggling with gelcoat on the total rehab of a 1992 Stratos bass boat. There are a lot of conflicting opinions on RUclips, and this video is the most concise I've seen. Thanks for the effort to make these videos. I have 2 channels myself, Swamp Cat Boat works and FDx Custom Rods, so I understand the amount of work involved. Subscribed from both!
Finally, a video that doesn't make assumptions, skips no details and thoroughly explains every detail in the gelcoat materials and process. Working on my sailboat here in San Francisco. Thanks!
Hello I just want to say that to the People who wants the casting surface, 2 older boats in my harbour that then have been auto paintet and this Can be buffed and looks great. Best regards from Denmark Thanks for all the good work you are doing😊
Excellent video ! This one covers the basics and details, no filler , no music , no BS. I really appreciate the update on modern materials , I learned old school, don't do a lot of fiberglass work. It is an amazing repair material for outdoor projects in the PNW, weathers beautifully in the rainy long winters. Also some great tips I learned about repairing chips in fiberglass shower stalls etc. Thank you !
I just finished putting new gel coat on an old jet ski, and of all the hours of reading and learning that I did to prepare myself, this video was the most useful overview that I found. So much great info, thank you!
Fish bump family really love the video appreciate every aspect of it and you are absolutely right Logan has done a fantastic job with these videos great content Thanks again y'all for your time and knowledge moving forward!
Wow, thank you so much for the kind words of encouragement! I will be sure to tell Logan that you said he is doing a good job, I am sure he will appreciate that! I also want to thank you for watching and being a loyal supporter of the channel!
There are a lot of DIY folks out there buying 40 year old Hobie Cats and struggling with delamination repairs,hole filling, and gel coating. It would be great to have a series on those topics. Like what to use to repair the delamination, injecting epoxy, gel coating over the epoxy repairs, gel coat or marine paint for the hulls? And while I have you, maybe an episode on using a small 6 gal compressor (common in most garages) for spraying gel coat. Given the 10 min life of the pot, can the smaller compressor keep up with a HVLP setup? Thanks for all your information.
Great suggestion! I will try to put a video together that could help answer some of your questions. As far as the 6 gallon compressors go, they are going to be to small to use for spraying gelcoat, other than the smallest of spray rigs on small jobs. Usually, a 5 hp 20 gallon tank is minimum for any serious amount of spraying, and a 7.5 hp 80 gallon is what a larger shop might need. I will try to find one that I can recommend to you all, and put a link to it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you very much sir. I just acquired a 14ft. Glastex speed queen boat. Lol. It's ruff and very repairable. First time boat owner. You're info. Is very helpful!!!
hey Joe, thanks so much for that info, I am about to recoat the bottom of the Kayak I am restoring, this has been a great help. love your channel.. oh and PS, thanks for including us folk that are on the other side of the world and use metric.. 😂
I never bothered to comment and I watch a ton of RUclips thanks for providing such helpful and thorough content really appreciate it and you have excellent delivery looking forward to seeing blow up on RUclips
Wow, thanks so much for the kind words of encouragement, it means alot! I have really been surprised by the positive response to the videos we have been making, and as the channel grows we should be able to do more and more interesting content for everyone to enjoy! I hope this is the case, and I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!
Hey Joe, I’m working on my 1985 16’ Privateer CC and you’ve helped me so much you have no idea. I just wanted to reach out say “thank you”! Stay Awesome 🤟
Great Job on this tutorial! I have been learning so much and mostly eliminating mistakes for the sake of compatibility.. Thank you again for your effort to teach DIY's like me who own a boat and like to make her glorious! keep them coming!!
Thank you captain Joe for those precious tips and demonstrations. I am following you for about a year, and this is my first comment and really want to thank you for all the time you spend sharing your experience and make boat shop operations cristal clear. I am slowly refreshing a 1980s mako 224 from my grand father. It is a hudge project but I am not in a hurry and take my time to do the right thing taking into account your tips. ❤
This is a great video. You really know your shit. I vary my approach with gelcoat jobs all the time. Usually I mix my main batch into smaller batches due to working time. I do 4-5 coats giving 5-10 minutes between coats for flash time. Usually I use patch aid in the final batch but sometimes use pva. Thanks for the video!
That is a good question. Peel-ply is generally used to smooth out the laminate under the gelcoat. I haven't tried using it over the gelcoat, maybe it is worth a try. Might have to do a video on that one! Thanks for watching and commenting all of the way from the UK 🇬🇧
Hello from Portugal, you are the best, lots of information and very well explained. I'm not very good at English but your way of speaking, calm and precise, I can understand very well. Here in Portugal, I know people who have worked for more than 20 years in repairs with fiberglass and gel coat and simply don't know how to explain the difference between gel coat and topcoat or flowcoat. I talked about applying several layers and they immediately said it was impossible, I wasn't happy and I looked and found your channel and everything became more obvious, the problem in Portugal is that they call it gel coat and top coat and you are more than correct gel coat with wax and gel coat without wax!!! Speaking like that, it's so easy to understand why I can't apply several layers of gel coat with wax. I'm also not going to waste time explaining to these people the correct way because they've been doing it wrong for over 20 years, they don't know and they don't want to learn. My grandfather used to say: not knowing is not a defect, but not wanting to learn is a huge defect. I hope you continue making videos because you are the best. Thanks
@FishBumpTv Your channel is a wealth of useful knowledge. Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. Also wanted to thank you for the discount code for Fiberglass Warehouse that I used on my transom, stringer and color change project!
thanks for the content, Probably gonna be reaching out on Patreon. Regelcoating the interior of my sailboat and adding fiberglass reinforcement for a solar arch. Trying to educate myself as much as possible.
Hey Mate, thanks so much for putting so much time and effort into these videos - (and camera man) I am from Queensland Australia- in the north where the temp is hot and humid- it’s a tourist region called Port Douglas. I’ve been watching all your videos and have to say you really do a great job to explain every single detail! I’m doing up an old 1979 cruise craft 18ft and these tips you are giving are super useful. Only thing I’d say is - I’m constantly on google to check the quart and ounce to milliliters 😂- but I’m working it out slowly… so I think a quart is about 950ml Anyway thanks heaps for sharing your experience with us- I think someone said - these videos will used for the next decade. I agree well done Captain Joe ! Kind Regards Paul
Wow! Welcome to the channel Paul! Thanks so much for watching all the way from Australia 🇦🇺 I am working on adding more metric measurements for the rest of the world. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your projects!
Putting a Convert App on your phone really helps with the US quart to millimeters etc. The Imperial quart,gallon,pint etc is different from the US which is on the Convert App. I use it for everything.
Great video. And I hope I didn’t miss this. But you do a great job of saying when to use wax, but I never heard what wax does for you. What is the purpose of the wax in the last coat?
FROM MIKE FROM MIMS,LAST COAT WITH WAX SO WE CAN SAND TO MAKE LAST COAT LOOK LIKE IT CAME OUT OF MOLD. COAT WITH OUT WAX IS STICKY AND WILL GUM UP WHEN SANDING. WAX LAST COAT WE CAN SAND TO OUR SATISFATION, MORE SANDING MORE SATISFATION. THANK YOU , OH BY THE WAY I AM 85 AND LOVE WORKING WITH FIBERGLASS.
Thanks! Wax is added to help the gelcoat fully cure to a tack free, hard surface that can then be sanded if needed or put into service. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Capt Joe another great video. Had another suggestion to add to your video idea list. ….spraying gelcoat with those disposable preval sprayers. That’s the tool of choice at many marinas near me and I have wanted to give it a try
@@FishBumpTV I have a few of the cheap "disposable" HF spray guns, which I think I could use if I modified the tip. What size tip/orifice would you recommend for trying to spray gelcoat? Thanks for sharing your knowledge (and links to products) in the very informative video(s)!
Another great tutorial video, indeed. Would you recommend applying a second coat of wax gelcoat on top of another wax gelcoat, or non wax gelcoat first then the wax gelcoat. Thank you for all the great and very informative videos!
Thank you! No, I don't recommend applying multiple layers of waxed gelcoat over itself. The wax in the gelcoat will not allow other materials to bond to it properly, even gelcoat itself does not bond well to waxed gelcoat. Remember, only use wax on the last, or finishing coat. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Another great video, loads of useful easy to comprehend info. With the demo where you spoke of how to get a smooth finish with multiple coats and sanding, I wonder why you use a roller with such a deep nap, (it looks like it from the vid). Would it not be better to use a low nap roller designed for high gloss finishes where gloss is the aim. Also you don’t mention Peelply or any such product. I am no expert, just a RUclips boat stuff addict so far.
If I knew I was going to be sanding the gelcoat to a glossy finish I would roll out the gelcoat, then tip it with a quality paint brush to lay it down Smooth. You could also spray it to get a smoother surface to start with. I don't use peel ply personally. It is a extra expense, and it creates additional waste. Just my personal opinion. I hope this helps clarify the process I would use. Thanks for watching!
Awesome channel Captain Joe!!!! - Thank you for all the sharing of information and trade skill's. As a auto bodyman/painter with urethane, the gelcoat game is a little less tedious I think? Like the pinholes in the Formula 27 final sanding before first coats of gelcoat. As a complete novice in the boat gelcoat world, I take it the pinholes in the filler can be filled along with scratches in the gelcoat? After watching this video and another one, I definitely get the final coat of gelcoat to be with wax and all previous gelcoats are un-waxed. Another question, I may have answered is - You do not sand between gelcoats with no wax? Looking forward to finishing this dingy Caribe 12' RIB - Thank you for all the video's of boat builds, repairs, and fishing 👍👍 Keep on keeping it real down in L.A. - Yah bless you Joe
Thank you! Yes, gelcoat is quite thick compared to paint, so I find it more forgiving when it comes to scratches and pinholes. I will sometimes give a light scuff with anything from 120 to 220 between coats on unwaxed gelcoat just to knock any bumps or ridges down a bit, but it will gum up your paper very rapidly. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you for the let know. I saw your custom top gel coat video, using your roller technique, after you trimmed the tabs and hit it with you big curved sanding block. I tried using a sponge roller with a pint of Evercoat non-waxed gel and stuff was super thick. I thought it might have been the sponge, but the gel was super thick. I hit it with some 80 and mixed some Hi Bond white with wax and used a 3/8 nap roller and blew the roller with air and taped it like you do, and that worked great. It is coated and that is all I wanted for now. Maybe this winter I will try cleaning it up a little better. Thanks again👍 mek
Thanks! If you are applying gelcoat to a mold, then it is OK to use epoxy resin to laminate with. Remember, it is OK to epoxy over polyester resin, which is what gelcoat is, but not to apply polyester over epoxy. I have some videos planned that will be discussing lots of gelcoat and epoxy options, so stay tuned!
On a past video you mention if viewers have any suggestions. I have one. These days to dilute gelcoat, we use styrene. In the past, your father used acetone. I know one professional who uses acetone since twenty years and very satisfied with his results. Could you demystified the subject? Is it possible to understand more about the subject and how far we can go with the dilution of these products, some say less than 5 %, others, you can go further than 10 %, and more pourcentage. I already dilute, for my airbrush, too much acetone in my gelcoat with no issues...
Very helpful, am subscribing now to learn more. I am concerned about gelcoating on a vertical surface and it sloughing/running down. hope one of your vids have covered it, going to look now.
Welcome to the channel! Gelcoat works just fine when applied to a vertical surface. You just don't want to apply it to thick, 2 or 3 light coats works better than 1 heavy coat. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Dead Nuts On Captain 👍 Still the best all around Fiberglass boat Videos on RUclips. Glad to see you doing One on One consultation instructions with DYI projects! Will we see the T Top build on the 29’er before the off season or we have to wait till winter?
Your channel is a wealth of useful knowledge. Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. Also wanted to thank you for the discount code for Fiberglass Warehouse that I used on my transom, stringer and color change project!
I’ve been using a fine nap roller. I’m 5 coats in still can see through to my base fiberglass. I just went and got me a thicker roller. I’m over it. We should’ve collabed to get this circus right once and for all. Maybe next time 🤣
You’re not a boat builder. You’re a chemist. I do not have a boat but I do have an RV that needs gelcoat restoration in several places. Your videos have been a huge help. Any tips on getting the 17 year old decals off? Thanks again.
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I have had success using a heat gun to warm up the decals just prier to removal. There is a product called goof off that is sold at Lowes and elsewhere that can be good for any glue residue removal. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I’ll try the heat. Goof Off works but it’s going to be ridiculous moneywise because one can does not go very far. yesterday I found some stuff at O’Reillys that is used for aircraft decals. That stuff is working well, but I think the heat with the aircraft decal remover is probably the ticket.
I bought the setup from a company called Minnie craft of Florida. The pot is a CA technologies 5 gal pressure pot. The gun is a Binks 2001 gw with a external catalyst mix attachment. I hope this help, and thanks for watching!
A novice question to clarify for me and possible others. Would you add wax to first gelcoat layer in a mold? The side against the mold I would think you would want to harden to possibly sand and polish out after de-molding. The inside of that first layer you would want to stay tacky for laminating. I eventually plan on working with Carbon Fiber but am gaining tons of info from your channel. Thanks.
I can see why you might think you would add wax on the first layer of a molded part, but you don't. The mold itself is waxed, and the surface of the mold inhibits the gelcoats access to air, which allows it to cure to full hardness on the mold side, but remain tacky on the inside of the mold so that the fiberglass laminate with still bond to the gelcoat. As our mold building series continues, you will get to see the process when we build the actual hard top. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Glad to help! Generally it is not considered a good idea to apply gelcoat over epoxy as it may not cure properly or may release over time. There are some products called tie coats that I want to do some testing on before I could make a recommendation. I hope to test some of these materials soon for you all, so stay tuned!
do/can barnacles cause osmosis? New boat, here. Brackish water. No Bottom paint. Leave it wet, in season, with periodic bottom cleanings. Also, if professionally Bottom Painted to virgin hull, don't they strip down to gel coat? what's the better path, to minimize blister risk, etc.?
If a boat is left in the water for any length of time regularly, then bottom paint is probably a good idea. I would recommend an epoxy barrier coat, such as interlux 2000e. It is applied under the bottom paint, over gelcoat that has been cleaned thoroughly and then lightly sanded. If I get a chance to do an epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint job, i will video the process for you all. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for making these videos. I am restoring an old 1968 Skeeter/Super Skeeter bass boat, I did find out that the manufacturer used polyester resins in the construction. My question is like how you created the filler in this video, should I duplicate it in my process to fill the scratches in the bottom of the haul? Thanks Mike
You can use thickened gelcoat, like we used in the video for minor scratches and dings. 3m also makes some very good vinyl ester fillers that are approved for below the waterline applications. I also have several more gelcoat repair and filler and putty selection videos here on the channel that should help. Thanks for watching!
Wow. Nice video Thank you very much. i love your videos. we are fixing the interior (Floor and sides) of a 19', old 1984 Proline that we took apart about 10 years ago. Back then we replace all the stringers, floor and transom with composite material, i used Coosa only in the transom, the rest is foam but not as dense as Coosa, it came out great, sadly gas tank went bad a year ago and i had to take everything out again lol. watching your videos of the construction of the 29 i got inspired again and I've been working on the boat. Thank for your videos again. i have a couple of questions about gelcoat that you probably can help me out. I know know is a NO NO now because i saw this video, But what would be the consequences of applying several coats of gelcoat with wax, even if between coats one wait before the coats completely dry before applying the next coat. What would happen if one apply several coats of gelcoat without wax and don't apply the last coat with wax. would the last coat of gelcoat without wax would still completely dry? Thanks in advance.
The 19ft proline sounds like a great project boat. It is hard to beat a boat in that 18 to 20ft range for all around use, and economy. I usually buy gelcoat without wax, and then buy a wax additive so I can make as much or as little waxed gelcoat as I need. The wax creates a air barrier on the surface of the gelcoat so that the gelcoat can cure completely. Without the wax added the gelcoats surface will remain sticky or tacky. This is good if you are adding several layers of gelcoat, as the tacky gelcoat bonds better to the next layer of gelcoat. The wax in gelcoat tends to repel anything you put over it, including additional layers of gelcoat. If you catch the gelcoat just as it is starting to tack off, you can overcoat waxed gelcoat with more waxed gelcoat, but I don't recommend it if possible. I have a video titled,the secrets of gelcoat that you might find will answer some of your questions. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
What is the maximum time you can leave gel coat without wax before adding the next coat? I’ve got cold weather coming in and it’s looking like I have to wait 2-3 days.
I have that very same question! Looking everywhere for the answer. My Gelcoat without wax has been drying/curing for 2 weeks, but I still need to fill some areas and I want to be sure next coat will “adhere.”
@ I just did my last coat with wax and it was about 3 weeks since last coat. I took a rag with acetone and it started dissolving it making it tacky. So I did the last coat and it’s stuck. I used a microfiber clothe to get the dust off beforehand.
I've been watching your videos for a long time, and they have helped me a lot. I follow your instructions precisely. However, yesterday, I was repairing a large part of my boat (1.5x0.5M) at the very front. After applying the fifth layer with a roller (planning for a total of six layers before sanding), I couldn't apply the last layer with wax in time. I added paraffin with a brush after six hours. Is there any solution to cure it properly so I can sand and wet sand it? Sorry for any mistakes in my English. Greetings from Greece
CPT Joe, quick question for ya in regards to applying the 4 to 5 coats and then the progressive sanding and polish for high gloss finish, how long in between coats do I need to wait typically before moving onto the next coat. Building my boat’s center console. Thanks again !
Cure time can vary a bit due to temperature, and catalyst amounts. So it is not easy to just put a exact time amount to wait. Generally in high temps, say 80 to 90 degrees, you could possibly recoat in as little as a hour and a half. In colder temps it could be several hours, or maybe even the next day. Just remember to use gelcoat without wax on your first 4 coats, then use a wax additive, or spray on a coat of pva or poly vinyl alcohol on you last coat. I will be making some new gelcoat related videos very soon, so stay tuned and thanks for watching!
Hello my friend...Maybe a stupid question..If we put gell coat without wax in the mold and after we built it with fiberglass. Why when we take it out of the mold is not sticky?
The mold acts as a barrier to air, just like wax, pva, or a plastic film would. Therefore, allowing the gelcoat to cure fully at the molded surface. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Captain Always great info from the most experienced!! Still want to know impact strength of gelcoat and or different glass layups and thickness needed to make body panels. I know your boat hulls must be brutally strong as I'm the one that wants to make datsun 510 bodies that are strong enough for the roads. We thank you for teaching us so much!!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I don't think car body panels would need to be nearly as tough as boat hulls, and the cosmetics would be very important. With that being said, I would imagine after your gelcoat is applied to the mold that 4 to 5 layers of 1 or 1.5 Oz csm and using vinyl Ester resins in the part would be a good place to start testing a part. I would be concerned that any heavy glass like 1708 might print through the finish. We frequently make test panels and experiment with different laminates before deciding what is going to work best for a particular boat application. Since we don't make car parts, I can't really say for sure what is exactly the best for what you are doing. Always test and experiment before moving forward. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I've used high speed Drexel like tool w/barrel sand #80 to feather off sharp edges, wash/wiped w/acetone then 3M Premium filler w/creme hardener, cured, DA w/80 within blue tape margin 2-3" spacing. wash/wipe w/Acetone. Now do I use #80 grit or #120/150 over all including filler area then 3-4 coats non-wax gelcoat w/MEKP 1-3%, sand w/#220 Acetone wipe between all coats & final Gelcoat w/wax then go higher grit all way to light compound, buff, seal & wax?
Awesome video. I’m curious on your opinion on duratec hi gloss additive. It goes 50/50 with gelcoat and you don’t need pva or wax on the final coat. It apparently makes a super flat finish. It also thins the mixture for spraying. I’m torn because I want gelcoat for what it is known for, and a 50/50 additive seems risky even if it allegedly enhances the product
I have used the duratec products before with good results. 50/50 is the max recommended. You can add less, and still get good results. Orca composites also makes a product called Air dry. I show it in a couple of my more recent videos. You might want to check it out. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
If you add wax in the last coat, there is no need to add pva. If you didn't add wax on the last coat, you could add pva to make it cure. You can also apply wax paper, or plastic film over the gelcoat on small repairs to make it cure. I will be making another video on this topic very soon for everyone. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your help with the outrigger bases! I have another question please - I bought a new boat hull made of wood and fiberglass. As my marine mechanic (who is also a boat builder) was fitting the boat out with a new motor he noticed some straight hairline cracks around the fuel tank. The boat has a 7 year warrantee and I flagged the issue with the manufacturer who responded saying they were only cosmetic cracks in the flocoat (not covered under warrantee). He said it was caused because the flocoat on top was ridged while the gelcoat underneath was flexible. He also mentioned the fuel tank was fully glassed-in. My marine mechanic disagrees and said the glassed-in fuel tank should have give the boat more strength and rigidity. He suspects that some joins in the floor were not glassed in properly. My main concern is water/moisture seeping through the deck and getting into the wooden stringers. Or any hidden structural issues. Please let me know your opinion? Thanks again, Andrew
That's hard to say for sure what could be the cause of the cracks. Gelcoat usually cracks if it is applied to thick, or the material under the gelcoat is moving or flexing in some way, causing it to crack. A hairline gelcoat crack isn't always a big problem though. Sounds like your mechanic is a knowledgeable guy, maybe he can help isolate what is going on. Wish I could be more help with this one. Thanks for watching!
![How To Fix Boat Gelcoat Spider Cracks, Hairline Cracks, and Crazing [MATERIALS LIST👇] | BoatUS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i2w85yvrbHk/mqdefault.jpg)
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
At the 6:15 minute: I meant to say CAP full, not cup full of wax solution. We added a text overlay on the video to clarify that point, but for some reason the text no longer matches up to the correct moment in the video.
I wish you would have made this video a month ago.😂 I've been struggling with gelcoat on the total rehab of a 1992 Stratos bass boat. There are a lot of conflicting opinions on RUclips, and this video is the most concise I've seen. Thanks for the effort to make these videos. I have 2 channels myself, Swamp Cat Boat works and FDx Custom Rods, so I understand the amount of work involved. Subscribed from both!
Glad I could help! Welcome to the channel and best of luck with your project!
Finally, a video that doesn't make assumptions, skips no details and thoroughly explains every detail in the gelcoat materials and process. Working on my sailboat here in San Francisco.
Thanks!
Best gel coat video for a newbie hands down. Thank you for sharing
Wow, thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Hello
I just want to say that to the People who wants the casting surface, 2 older boats in my harbour that then have been auto paintet and this Can be buffed and looks great.
Best regards from Denmark
Thanks for all the good work you are doing😊
Thanks for watching all the way from Denmark 🇩🇰
Thank you, that was the most concise and plain speaking demonstration I’ve seen on gelcoat.
You are very welcome, thanks for watching!
17:02 I like these routine things like brushing your brush on your pullover before using it❤
Thanks for watching and I appreciate your thoughts!
This is my 3rd repairs of my jet ski, this video finally allow my brain to understand.
Glad to help!
Thanks for the three-year apprenticeship and 30 minutes
Haha, you are very welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I love the more rugged look of rolled gel coat. Nice video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
Excellent video ! This one covers the basics and details, no filler , no music , no BS.
I really appreciate the update on modern materials , I learned old school, don't do a lot of fiberglass work.
It is an amazing repair material for outdoor projects in the PNW, weathers beautifully in the rainy long winters.
Also some great tips I learned about repairing chips in fiberglass shower stalls etc.
Thank you !
Thanks so much, glad the videos are helpful!
Thanks, Captain Joe. Extremely thorough and efficient presentation. A true pro who knows his stuff. Cheers from Toronto, Canada!
Wow, what a nice comment! Thanks for watching and commenting from Toronto!
Great video. Can you tell me the minimum and maximum time window between the (waxfree) coats of gelcoat. I hear so many answers..
I just finished putting new gel coat on an old jet ski, and of all the hours of reading and learning that I did to prepare myself, this video was the most useful overview that I found. So much great info, thank you!
That's fantastic! Glad the video was helpful!
Fish bump family really love the video appreciate every aspect of it and you are absolutely right Logan has done a fantastic job with these videos great content Thanks again y'all for your time and knowledge moving forward!
Wow, thank you so much for the kind words of encouragement! I will be sure to tell Logan that you said he is doing a good job, I am sure he will appreciate that! I also want to thank you for watching and being a loyal supporter of the channel!
Thanks!
Glad to help! Much appreciated!
There are a lot of DIY folks out there buying 40 year old Hobie Cats and struggling with delamination repairs,hole filling, and gel coating. It would be great to have a series on those topics. Like what to use to repair the delamination, injecting epoxy, gel coating over the epoxy repairs, gel coat or marine paint for the hulls? And while I have you, maybe an episode on using a small 6 gal compressor (common in most garages) for spraying gel coat. Given the 10 min life of the pot, can the smaller compressor keep up with a HVLP setup?
Thanks for all your information.
Great suggestion! I will try to put a video together that could help answer some of your questions. As far as the 6 gallon compressors go, they are going to be to small to use for spraying gelcoat, other than the smallest of spray rigs on small jobs. Usually, a 5 hp 20 gallon tank is minimum for any serious amount of spraying, and a 7.5 hp 80 gallon is what a larger shop might need. I will try to find one that I can recommend to you all, and put a link to it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you very much sir. I just acquired a 14ft. Glastex speed queen boat. Lol. It's ruff and very repairable. First time boat owner. You're info. Is very helpful!!!
Very cool! Congratulations on owning your first boat! Glad you are finding the channel helpful.
Excellent video. Thanks for making these DIY educational videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Dude! You’re the best. Reminds me of my Pops and getting right to it. Thanks for taking the time…
Wow, thanks! I'm glad you are enjoying the channel!
YOU ARE THE BEST EXPLANER... THANK YOU
Wow, thank you so much! Glad you are enjoying the videos!
Hello captain Joe . You are a great guy and very professional. I enjoy watching and learning your skills . God Bless you.
Wow, thanks so much! Your comment is much appreciated!
Very generous sharing all your knowledge. Thanks again
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Thanks for watching!
hey Joe, thanks so much for that info, I am about to recoat the bottom of the Kayak I am restoring, this has been a great help. love your channel.. oh and PS, thanks for including us folk that are on the other side of the world and use metric.. 😂
Glad to help, and best of luck with your Kayak project!
This information is so valuable and interesting . Thank you so much for all the time and effort you have put in to make these videos. From UK
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching all of the way from the UK 🇬🇧!
knowledge is priceless thank you.
Glad to help, and you are very welcome!
Awesome video! I have been reminded of just how much I have forgotten over the years! Keep up the great work!!
Thank you very much! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Thanks. Great video with specific details that are left out of some other videos.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I never bothered to comment and I watch a ton of RUclips thanks for providing such helpful and thorough content really appreciate it and you have excellent delivery looking forward to seeing blow up on RUclips
Wow, thanks so much for the kind words of encouragement, it means alot! I have really been surprised by the positive response to the videos we have been making, and as the channel grows we should be able to do more and more interesting content for everyone to enjoy! I hope this is the case, and I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!
It is one of video that will be the more useful for what I’m doing about Gelcoat.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! What a lot of info, thanks… I’ll have to watch a second time and take notes.
Thanks, glad to help!
Hey Joe,
I’m working on my 1985 16’ Privateer CC and you’ve helped me so much you have no idea. I just wanted to reach out say “thank you”! Stay Awesome 🤟
Glad I could help! I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
Getting ready to gel coat my Livingston LV10 this video helped so much with my questions!
Glad to help and thanks for watching!
I’m planning on gel coating a 1967 Hinterhoeller sailboat, this information is valuable. Thanks good video!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great Job on this tutorial! I have been learning so much and mostly eliminating mistakes for the sake of compatibility.. Thank you again for your effort to teach DIY's like me who own a boat and like to make her glorious! keep them coming!!
Wow, thanks so much! Glad the videos are helpful and best of luck with your boat projects!
This was perfect. Now I have a way forward. Thank you.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you captain Joe for those precious tips and demonstrations. I am following you for about a year, and this is my first comment and really want to thank you for all the time you spend sharing your experience and make boat shop operations cristal clear. I am slowly refreshing a 1980s mako 224 from my grand father. It is a hudge project but I am not in a hurry and take my time to do the right thing taking into account your tips. ❤
You are very welcome! Glad you are enjoying the videos, and best of luck with your project!
this information is soo valuable. thank you so much
Glad you appreciate the work that we are doing on the channel! Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is a great video. You really know your shit. I vary my approach with gelcoat jobs all the time. Usually I mix my main batch into smaller batches due to working time. I do 4-5 coats giving 5-10 minutes between coats for flash time. Usually I use patch aid in the final batch but sometimes use pva. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I appreciate you sharing your method and techniques!
thank you for clarifying the wax / no wax situations
Glad to help!
Could you apply a peel-ply to a non-waxed gel coat finish to give you a smooth finish that needs less sanding? Great videos - thanks. (from UK)
That is a good question. Peel-ply is generally used to smooth out the laminate under the gelcoat. I haven't tried using it over the gelcoat, maybe it is worth a try. Might have to do a video on that one! Thanks for watching and commenting all of the way from the UK 🇬🇧
Tremendous video very helpful thank you to you both!
Wow, thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Wow! Awesome explanation! Thank you for sharing your time and many talents Capt Joe! All the Best!
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello from Portugal, you are the best, lots of information and very well explained. I'm not very good at English but your way of speaking, calm and precise, I can understand very well. Here in Portugal, I know people who have worked for more than 20 years in repairs with fiberglass and gel coat and simply don't know how to explain the difference between gel coat and topcoat or flowcoat. I talked about applying several layers and they immediately said it was impossible, I wasn't happy and I looked and found your channel and everything became more obvious, the problem in Portugal is that they call it gel coat and top coat and you are more than correct gel coat with wax and gel coat without wax!!! Speaking like that, it's so easy to understand why I can't apply several layers of gel coat with wax. I'm also not going to waste time explaining to these people the correct way because they've been doing it wrong for over 20 years, they don't know and they don't want to learn. My grandfather used to say: not knowing is not a defect, but not wanting to learn is a huge defect. I hope you continue making videos because you are the best. Thanks
@FishBumpTv Your channel is a wealth of useful knowledge. Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. Also wanted to thank you for the discount code for Fiberglass Warehouse that I used on my transom, stringer and color change project!
I appreciate that! Glad to help!
thanks for the content, Probably gonna be reaching out on Patreon. Regelcoating the interior of my sailboat and adding fiberglass reinforcement for a solar arch. Trying to educate myself as much as possible.
Glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks for watching!
Would you be able to explain Gator Glide Vs Slick 2000 or have experience with those product. Thanks.
Thanks for clearing the air on gel coat.
So much conflicting info out there.
Glad it was helpful!
What a wealth of knowledge for a new boat builder like myself. Thanks!! Keep up the great work.
Glad to help, and best of luck with your boatbuilding project !
Hey Mate, thanks so much for putting so much time and effort into these videos - (and camera man) I am from Queensland Australia- in the north where the temp is hot and humid- it’s a tourist region called Port Douglas.
I’ve been watching all your videos and have to say you really do a great job to explain every single detail! I’m doing up an old 1979 cruise craft 18ft and these tips you are giving are super useful. Only thing I’d say is - I’m constantly on google to check the quart and ounce to milliliters 😂- but I’m working it out slowly… so I think a quart is about 950ml
Anyway thanks heaps for sharing your experience with us- I think someone said - these videos will used for the next decade. I agree well done Captain Joe !
Kind Regards Paul
Wow! Welcome to the channel Paul! Thanks so much for watching all the way from Australia 🇦🇺 I am working on adding more metric measurements for the rest of the world. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your projects!
Putting a Convert App on your phone really helps with the US quart to millimeters etc. The Imperial quart,gallon,pint etc is different from the US which is on the Convert App. I use it for everything.
Great video Captain Joe.
Do you have a video about repairing spider cracks on gelcoat?
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the channel! I don't have a video on spider cracks in gelcoat yet. I hope to have one soon. I appreciate you watching !
Thanks caption joe, it's a great help.
Glad to hear that you are finding the videos helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great video. And I hope I didn’t miss this. But you do a great job of saying when to use wax, but I never heard what wax does for you. What is the purpose of the wax in the last coat?
FROM MIKE FROM MIMS,LAST COAT WITH WAX SO WE CAN SAND TO MAKE LAST COAT LOOK LIKE IT CAME OUT OF MOLD. COAT WITH OUT WAX IS STICKY AND WILL GUM UP WHEN SANDING. WAX LAST COAT WE CAN SAND TO OUR SATISFATION, MORE SANDING MORE SATISFATION. THANK YOU , OH BY THE WAY I AM 85 AND LOVE WORKING WITH FIBERGLASS.
Thanks! Wax is added to help the gelcoat fully cure to a tack free, hard surface that can then be sanded if needed or put into service. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks! Makes sense! I guess it just wasn't making sense to me that wax would somehow make the cured product easier to sand. LOL
Capt Joe another great video. Had another suggestion to add to your video idea list. ….spraying gelcoat with those disposable preval sprayers. That’s the tool of choice at many marinas near me and I have wanted to give it a try
Great suggestion! Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I have a few of the cheap "disposable" HF spray guns, which I think I could use if I modified the tip. What size tip/orifice would you recommend for trying to spray gelcoat? Thanks for sharing your knowledge (and links to products) in the very informative video(s)!
Another great tutorial video, indeed. Would you recommend applying a second coat of wax gelcoat on top of another wax gelcoat, or non wax gelcoat first then the wax gelcoat. Thank you for all the great and very informative videos!
Thank you! No, I don't recommend applying multiple layers of waxed gelcoat over itself. The wax in the gelcoat will not allow other materials to bond to it properly, even gelcoat itself does not bond well to waxed gelcoat. Remember, only use wax on the last, or finishing coat. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Fantastic video. Great communication skills!
Wow! Thank you very much!
Another great video, loads of useful easy to comprehend info. With the demo where you spoke of how to get a smooth finish with multiple coats and sanding, I wonder why you use a roller with such a deep nap, (it looks like it from the vid). Would it not be better to use a low nap roller designed for high gloss finishes where gloss is the aim. Also you don’t mention Peelply or any such product. I am no expert, just a RUclips boat stuff addict so far.
If I knew I was going to be sanding the gelcoat to a glossy finish I would roll out the gelcoat, then tip it with a quality paint brush to lay it down Smooth. You could also spray it to get a smoother surface to start with. I don't use peel ply personally. It is a extra expense, and it creates additional waste. Just my personal opinion. I hope this helps clarify the process I would use. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video explaining how to make poly flake repairs to gauges and scratches. Thanks you. Your videos are great.
No, sorry. We just don't do much metal flake repair work in our area. Thanks for watching!
You rock 💯 love your passionate videos brother
Thank you so much! Glad you are enjoying the videos!
Awesome channel Captain Joe!!!! - Thank you for all the sharing of information and trade skill's. As a auto bodyman/painter with urethane, the gelcoat game is a little less tedious I think?
Like the pinholes in the Formula 27 final sanding before first coats of gelcoat.
As a complete novice in the boat gelcoat world, I take it the pinholes in the filler can be filled along with scratches in the gelcoat?
After watching this video and another one, I definitely get the final coat of gelcoat to be with wax and all previous gelcoats are un-waxed. Another question, I may have answered is - You do not sand between gelcoats with no wax?
Looking forward to finishing this dingy Caribe 12' RIB - Thank you for all the video's of boat builds, repairs, and fishing 👍👍 Keep on keeping it real down in L.A. - Yah bless you Joe
Thank you! Yes, gelcoat is quite thick compared to paint, so I find it more forgiving when it comes to scratches and pinholes. I will sometimes give a light scuff with anything from 120 to 220 between coats on unwaxed gelcoat just to knock any bumps or ridges down a bit, but it will gum up your paper very rapidly. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you for the let know.
I saw your custom top gel coat video, using your roller technique, after you trimmed the tabs and hit it with you big curved sanding block.
I tried using a sponge roller with a pint of Evercoat non-waxed gel and stuff was super thick. I thought it might have been the sponge, but the gel was super thick.
I hit it with some 80 and mixed some Hi Bond white with wax and used a 3/8 nap roller and blew the roller with air and taped it like you do, and that worked great. It is coated and that is all I wanted for now. Maybe this winter I will try cleaning it up a little better.
Thanks again👍
mek
Awesome brother, Cheers from Auckland..
Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching all of the way from Auckland!
I also use styrene to thin and spray with a preval if it’s not a really large area
Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
Wondering about adding a non-skid material like crushed walnut shells or those rubber bits. Got a vid for that?
Yes, I have a gelcoat nonskid video here on the channel. It's in our 29 build series of videos. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Lots of good info here. Can I ask about Gelcoat for epoxy? I want to get awesome colours and finishes on moulded epoxy/carbon/glass stuff.
Thanks! If you are applying gelcoat to a mold, then it is OK to use epoxy resin to laminate with. Remember, it is OK to epoxy over polyester resin, which is what gelcoat is, but not to apply polyester over epoxy. I have some videos planned that will be discussing lots of gelcoat and epoxy options, so stay tuned!
Exceptional presentation
Thanks
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
On a past video you mention if viewers have any suggestions. I have one. These days to dilute gelcoat, we use styrene. In the past, your father used acetone. I know one professional who uses acetone since twenty years and very satisfied with his results. Could you demystified the subject?
Is it possible to understand more about the subject and how far we can go with the dilution of these products, some say less than 5 %, others, you can go further than 10 %, and more pourcentage. I already dilute, for my airbrush, too much acetone in my gelcoat with no issues...
Very helpful, am subscribing now to learn more. I am concerned about gelcoating on a vertical surface and it sloughing/running down. hope one of your vids have covered it, going to look now.
Welcome to the channel! Gelcoat works just fine when applied to a vertical surface. You just don't want to apply it to thick, 2 or 3 light coats works better than 1 heavy coat. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Dead Nuts On Captain 👍 Still the best all around Fiberglass boat Videos on RUclips. Glad to see you doing One on One consultation instructions with DYI projects! Will we see the T Top build on the 29’er before the off season or we have to wait till winter?
Wow, thanks! We will be posting some t top plug and mold building content very soon, so stay tuned!
Can’t wait
Your channel is a wealth of useful knowledge. Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. Also wanted to thank you for the discount code for Fiberglass Warehouse that I used on my transom, stringer and color change project!
Thank you! Glad you are enjoying the channel and saving some money at fiberglass warehouse with the fish bump tv discount!
Thank you for this straight forward video and for sharing your knowledge.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting
Great videos !!! To get white gelcoat to be just off white , white colour pigment should be added , yellow ? Thank you
I’ve been using a fine nap roller. I’m 5 coats in still can see through to my base fiberglass. I just went and got me a thicker roller. I’m over it. We should’ve collabed to get this circus right once and for all. Maybe next time 🤣
I'm around the shop today. Why don't you give me a call, maybe I can give you some pointers.
thanks, very much appreciate your time to make this video, learnt so much...
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid, thanks! I, about to remove the carpet from my rod lockers and gel coat and marine mat them.
You’re not a boat builder. You’re a chemist. I do not have a boat but I do have an RV that needs gelcoat restoration in several places. Your videos have been a huge help. Any tips on getting the 17 year old decals off? Thanks again.
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I have had success using a heat gun to warm up the decals just prier to removal. There is a product called goof off that is sold at Lowes and elsewhere that can be good for any glue residue removal. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I’ll try the heat. Goof Off works but it’s going to be ridiculous moneywise because one can does not go very far. yesterday I found some stuff at O’Reillys that is used for aircraft decals. That stuff is working well, but I think the heat with the aircraft decal remover is probably the ticket.
Can you please give details and where to find the pressure pot and external mix gel coat spray system.
I bought the setup from a company called Minnie craft of Florida. The pot is a CA technologies 5 gal pressure pot. The gun is a Binks 2001 gw with a external catalyst mix attachment. I hope this help, and thanks for watching!
A novice question to clarify for me and possible others. Would you add wax to first gelcoat layer in a mold? The side against the mold I would think you would want to harden to possibly sand and polish out after de-molding. The inside of that first layer you would want to stay tacky for laminating. I eventually plan on working with Carbon Fiber but am gaining tons of info from your channel. Thanks.
I can see why you might think you would add wax on the first layer of a molded part, but you don't. The mold itself is waxed, and the surface of the mold inhibits the gelcoats access to air, which allows it to cure to full hardness on the mold side, but remain tacky on the inside of the mold so that the fiberglass laminate with still bond to the gelcoat. As our mold building series continues, you will get to see the process when we build the actual hard top. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Fantastic video! Thankyou
Glad it was helpful! I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Did awesome presentation, thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Thank You Maestro 😀🕺💪🚤👍😍😍😍😍
You are very welcome!!
I love your videos and how you explain it.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey I love the clarity in your videos! Any way I can PM you for a just a little more information?
Great information!!! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Soo helpful. What can you use between apoxy and gelcoat to apply gelcoat
Glad to help! Generally it is not considered a good idea to apply gelcoat over epoxy as it may not cure properly or may release over time. There are some products called tie coats that I want to do some testing on before I could make a recommendation. I hope to test some of these materials soon for you all, so stay tuned!
Could you use your spot technique using clear gelcoat and flake mixed together to fix the dime size dings?
do/can barnacles cause osmosis? New boat, here. Brackish water. No Bottom paint. Leave it wet, in season, with periodic bottom cleanings. Also, if professionally Bottom Painted to virgin hull, don't they strip down to gel coat? what's the better path, to minimize blister risk, etc.?
If a boat is left in the water for any length of time regularly, then bottom paint is probably a good idea. I would recommend an epoxy barrier coat, such as interlux 2000e. It is applied under the bottom paint, over gelcoat that has been cleaned thoroughly and then lightly sanded. If I get a chance to do an epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint job, i will video the process for you all. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for making these videos. I am restoring an old 1968 Skeeter/Super Skeeter bass boat, I did find out that the manufacturer used polyester resins in the construction. My question is like how you created the filler in this video, should I duplicate it in my process to fill the scratches in the bottom of the haul? Thanks
Mike
You can use thickened gelcoat, like we used in the video for minor scratches and dings. 3m also makes some very good vinyl ester fillers that are approved for below the waterline applications. I also have several more gelcoat repair and filler and putty selection videos here on the channel that should help. Thanks for watching!
Wow. Nice video Thank you very much. i love your videos. we are fixing the interior (Floor and sides) of a 19', old 1984 Proline that we took apart about 10 years ago. Back then we replace all the stringers, floor and transom with composite material, i used Coosa only in the transom, the rest is foam but not as dense as Coosa, it came out great, sadly gas tank went bad a year ago and i had to take everything out again lol. watching your videos of the construction of the 29 i got inspired again and I've been working on the boat. Thank for your videos again. i have a couple of questions about gelcoat that you probably can help me out.
I know know is a NO NO now because i saw this video, But what would be the consequences of applying several coats of gelcoat with wax, even if between coats one wait before the coats
completely dry before applying the next coat.
What would happen if one apply several coats of gelcoat without wax and don't apply the last coat with wax. would the last coat of gelcoat without wax would still completely dry?
Thanks in advance.
The 19ft proline sounds like a great project boat. It is hard to beat a boat in that 18 to 20ft range for all around use, and economy. I usually buy gelcoat without wax, and then buy a wax additive so I can make as much or as little waxed gelcoat as I need. The wax creates a air barrier on the surface of the gelcoat so that the gelcoat can cure completely. Without the wax added the gelcoats surface will remain sticky or tacky. This is good if you are adding several layers of gelcoat, as the tacky gelcoat bonds better to the next layer of gelcoat. The wax in gelcoat tends to repel anything you put over it, including additional layers of gelcoat. If you catch the gelcoat just as it is starting to tack off, you can overcoat waxed gelcoat with more waxed gelcoat, but I don't recommend it if possible. I have a video titled,the secrets of gelcoat that you might find will answer some of your questions. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for your response. Today is sanding day. What a pain lol
What is the maximum time you can leave gel coat without wax before adding the next coat? I’ve got cold weather coming in and it’s looking like I have to wait 2-3 days.
I have that very same question! Looking everywhere for the answer. My Gelcoat without wax has been drying/curing for 2 weeks, but I still need to fill some areas and I want to be sure next coat will “adhere.”
@ I just did my last coat with wax and it was about 3 weeks since last coat. I took a rag with acetone and it started dissolving it making it tacky. So I did the last coat and it’s stuck. I used a microfiber clothe to get the dust off beforehand.
I've been watching your videos for a long time, and they have helped me a lot. I follow your instructions precisely. However, yesterday, I was repairing a large part of my boat (1.5x0.5M) at the very front. After applying the fifth layer with a roller (planning for a total of six layers before sanding), I couldn't apply the last layer with wax in time. I added paraffin with a brush after six hours. Is there any solution to cure it properly so I can sand and wet sand it? Sorry for any mistakes in my English.
Greetings from Greece
It worked!🙏🏼
Glad it worked! Thanks for watching!
CPT Joe, quick question for ya in regards to applying the 4 to 5 coats and then the progressive sanding and polish for high gloss finish, how long in between coats do I need to wait typically before moving onto the next coat. Building my boat’s center console. Thanks again !
Cure time can vary a bit due to temperature, and catalyst amounts. So it is not easy to just put a exact time amount to wait. Generally in high temps, say 80 to 90 degrees, you could possibly recoat in as little as a hour and a half. In colder temps it could be several hours, or maybe even the next day. Just remember to use gelcoat without wax on your first 4 coats, then use a wax additive, or spray on a coat of pva or poly vinyl alcohol on you last coat. I will be making some new gelcoat related videos very soon, so stay tuned and thanks for watching!
Hello my friend...Maybe a stupid question..If we put gell coat without wax in the mold and after we built it with fiberglass.
Why when we take it out of the mold is not sticky?
The mold acts as a barrier to air, just like wax, pva, or a plastic film would. Therefore, allowing the gelcoat to cure fully at the molded surface. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Wow, I need a new Pirogue like that one ❤
Haha, I hear ya! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Captain Always great info from the most experienced!! Still want to know impact strength of gelcoat and or different glass layups and thickness needed to make body panels. I know your boat hulls must be brutally strong as I'm the one that wants to make datsun 510 bodies that are strong enough for the roads. We thank you for teaching us so much!!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I don't think car body panels would need to be nearly as tough as boat hulls, and the cosmetics would be very important. With that being said, I would imagine after your gelcoat is applied to the mold that 4 to 5 layers of 1 or 1.5 Oz csm and using vinyl Ester resins in the part would be a good place to start testing a part. I would be concerned that any heavy glass like 1708 might print through the finish. We frequently make test panels and experiment with different laminates before deciding what is going to work best for a particular boat application. Since we don't make car parts, I can't really say for sure what is exactly the best for what you are doing. Always test and experiment before moving forward. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks for your time - I will try many tests. thanks for steering me in the right direction!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Great job captain. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! I appreciate you watching!
I've used high speed Drexel like tool w/barrel sand #80 to feather off sharp edges, wash/wiped w/acetone then 3M Premium filler w/creme hardener, cured, DA w/80 within blue tape margin 2-3" spacing. wash/wipe w/Acetone. Now do I use #80 grit or #120/150 over all including filler area then 3-4 coats non-wax gelcoat w/MEKP 1-3%, sand w/#220 Acetone wipe between all coats & final Gelcoat w/wax then go higher grit all way to light compound, buff, seal & wax?
Yep, you got it! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. I’m curious on your opinion on duratec hi gloss additive. It goes 50/50 with gelcoat and you don’t need pva or wax on the final coat. It apparently makes a super flat finish. It also thins the mixture for spraying. I’m torn because I want gelcoat for what it is known for, and a 50/50 additive seems risky even if it allegedly enhances the product
I have used the duratec products before with good results. 50/50 is the max recommended. You can add less, and still get good results. Orca composites also makes a product called Air dry. I show it in a couple of my more recent videos. You might want to check it out. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I have to ask on this video. You applied the gelcoat and added wax as last coat. Do I then add PVA to the entire surface for curing?
If you add wax in the last coat, there is no need to add pva. If you didn't add wax on the last coat, you could add pva to make it cure. You can also apply wax paper, or plastic film over the gelcoat on small repairs to make it cure. I will be making another video on this topic very soon for everyone. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you!!
Thank you for your help with the outrigger bases!
I have another question please - I bought a new boat hull made of wood and fiberglass. As my marine mechanic (who is also a boat builder) was fitting the boat out with a new motor he noticed some straight hairline cracks around the fuel tank.
The boat has a 7 year warrantee and I flagged the issue with the manufacturer who responded saying they were only cosmetic cracks in the flocoat (not covered under warrantee). He said it was caused because the flocoat on top was ridged while the gelcoat underneath was flexible. He also mentioned the fuel tank was fully glassed-in.
My marine mechanic disagrees and said the glassed-in fuel tank should have give the boat more strength and rigidity. He suspects that some joins in the floor were not glassed in properly.
My main concern is water/moisture seeping through the deck and getting into the wooden stringers. Or any hidden structural issues.
Please let me know your opinion?
Thanks again,
Andrew
That's hard to say for sure what could be the cause of the cracks. Gelcoat usually cracks if it is applied to thick, or the material under the gelcoat is moving or flexing in some way, causing it to crack. A hairline gelcoat crack isn't always a big problem though. Sounds like your mechanic is a knowledgeable guy, maybe he can help isolate what is going on. Wish I could be more help with this one. Thanks for watching!