Making Simple Variable Bench Power Supply
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- I'll show you how to make a DIY adjustable power supply.
Supplies:
LTC 3780: amzn.to/3MzoxKI
12v power supply: amzn.to/3IetIx1
Mini 360 buck converter: amzn.to/41ZsYTT
Voltage/current display: amzn.to/3pNW9vC
Potentiometers: amzn.to/3WeFRrW
Fan: amzn.to/450k76S
AC inlet module: amzn.to/3M9La7f
Banana plug jack: amzn.to/45c2ill
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Some advice from an old technician.
An already hot soldering iron will give you a quicker melt for the solder and therefore less time for the heat to transfer to the rest of the component/s.
Putting your solder iron on the wiring before it is hot enough to melt the solder quickly, causes the insulation to peel back because the plastic melts at a lower temp than the solder.
Please twist your wire strands together before you insert them into the circuit board, consolidating the strands causes the heat to transfer through quickly and makes the solder flow better and you will use less solder, same thing applies to wires you are putting into screw down block connectors.
Use heat shrink tube in lieu of tape and trim off protruding wires so that they are not sharp and long, which can either jab you or contact other wires through their insulation.
Cheers from Australia
Does a higher power soldering iron make a big difference? I've had a fair bit of struggle with my cheap 30W one.
@@volbla The proper answer is Yes and No.
The power should be relative to what you want to do with it.
ie if you want to solder two pieces of tin guttering together, the more power the better because the sheet metal will suck away the heat in the tip very quickly,
but then if you want to solder an SMD component onto a solder pad you require very little backup heat because the heat cant escape anywhere, that being said you "can" fry an SMD with a low watt iron Because the heat has nowhere to go.
It also matters what type of iron as in temp controlled or manual control(like "Scope" irons that have a finger lever on/off switch) or no control(cheap plug it into the outlet and it gets ?hot? irons).
The size and shape of the tip can play into this a lot as well, big tip=more backup temp to melt the solder and get it to flow into the wire gaps etc, smaller tip to precisely solder a small amount of solder onto a small join like an SMD.
With a 30 W, Yes you would be struggling I think, because it either hasn't got the power to melt the solder when the iron is hot or the tip cant convey the heat into the solder and the wire to get them to flow together.
But you can get some practice with a cheap iron which will pay back later when you can afford something better.
Just a couple of suggestions,
Don't expect the iron to be hot instantly, wait for it, the ideal is to melt the solder into the wire in about 1-2 seconds(less than 1 sec for SMDs) and then remove the iron so that heat doesn't go where you don't want it.
Don't turn the iron on and then put it onto the solder and wire, the building heat will just suck away into the piece you are working on and will cause the insulation to shrink back, just like you saw in this video(the same applies to a good hot iron but you take too long).
And also make sure the tip is clean of crinkly old solder using either a wet sponge or steel/brass wool, "tin" the tip(put some fresh solder on the tip only), so that it is nice and shiny with molten solder, then do the job quickly and get out fast( the hardest part to learn).
A minor addition, if your iron tip has black burned spots on it, it wont work correctly in transferring heat(it also wont tin properly).
If the tip is brass/copper you can file or sandpaper the end to get it back to clean metal ready to be tinned again.
However if your iron has an internal heating element(inside the tip itself), you may have to replace the tip.
Good luck and any more questions, just ask.
@@volbla Get a 60 watt one.
When you are soldering thing like caps or other that do not like heat. Use flux or resin to coat the wire and pad. Solder the pad instead of the component and quickly remove the heat ( blowing on it ofc lol ).
I found that i can solder caps and ic safely this way.
Aesthetics has a role in functionality in how willing the operator trusts to use it. I sure wouldn't want to sell it with my name on it.
hey man my 60w ceramic type soldering iron is struggling with 16awg wires i am using a longlife tip.. any suggestions?
Would add some heat shrink tubing to the mains inlet side, and possibly also tin the cables before soldering, to get the insulation to not pull back so far, as it would do that during tinning, and you can easily cut the excess off before final solder.
Nice video. Practice more on your soldering and you will get better. Always tin the wires first and the circuit board solder pads prior to making the final solder connection. It makes the job easier and overall makes a clean nice looking solder joint.👍
Another solid build, Odd! :D I really love the way you made the power supply, it looks incredible! Hopefully, you can get your printer working again so you can have it print appropriate letters for the knobs! Look forward to the next DIY video! Keep up the amazing work!
It would be great if you could do a Q&A someday! Your work is amazing but so are you, the creator behind it and there are so many questions I'd like to ask beginning with: what is your actual job or is this your job?
This was right on time! Looking forward to trying it out
Good work! Stylish design!
I built something similar a few years back (pre-pandemic) and found those Volt & Amp displays to be hideously innaccurate on the buck-boost module I got (they're fine on other things like my solar power setup), so have to use my multimeter to get an actual reading from it, managed to over-volt a few things with it unfortunately, really need to think about rebuilding it with something more reliable... :\
Perhaps it can be calibrated.
@@RunnerPack it might also be non-linear: accurate on one voltage range, but drift on another.
@@RunnerPack It does have calibration, but the problem is the voltage ot of the buck converter is "not right" (I need to poke about with it on an oscilloscope some day, when I learn how to use one!), and it throws off the voltage readings, so calibrate to one voltage, another is wrong, very annoying... :(
i have a request for a project: make transparent wood. (yes, its a thing).
Excellent work
I guess you should have restoration video for your saw machine
really nice
Aawweessoommee!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🥰🥰🥰💓💓💕💞💛💛💗💗😍😍💖💖❤️
It is interesting that you didn't went with ATX PSU.
Amazing!
Very nice... I would have looked into a 60v max DC power output ... The car industry is moving to 48 volts so by going 60 volts... it would future proof the build.
That has to be the worst soldering I have ever seen, If any of the guys in our test department had soldered like that they would have been out of a job.
Heat shrink should always be used, tape should only be used for test purposes, NEVER as a permanent fixture.
Yeah, it hurt to watch those solderjoints. The isolation distance aswell was way off.
8:10 got it
1:34:32
@@sophiakaiajw2829 GARBAGE TIME CARDS
you show in video 500K OHM you say to 200k OHM
Hey men, when you are making videos for like youtube,
Only useful parts of the video should be included.
Remove the parts like those tip cleanings
Пайка явно не ваш конек
👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁👏🏻😁
Nice Do more of this kind of thing please.
Man I hate gloves so I only wear them when working with chemicals etc
I rarely wear them even then. The chemicals have to be legitimately dangerous or staining for me to bother with them.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 lol im also a bit flawed there
V and A spoiled
9006 min later
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Please talk the video is quite boring when there isn't any talking i know your using the words but it would be way better if you did talk
Disagreed, I quite enjoy it. He does such a nice job with his process with captions.
@@Chevymacjr Agree. No talk is best.
This is his style of video so he doesn’t talk
I understand that soldering may not be your thing, but man that made me cringe just watching that...