I'd recommend using crimp terminals (e.g. ring abiko) for connecting the ultrasonic transducer instead of soldering, there are holes after all in the terminals. Likewise, would recommend solderless cable extension methods (e.g. Wago terminal blocks), especially when dealing with mains voltages and/or potentially high currents. Better avoid extensions altogether if possible. Soldered connections can cause issues if they form cracks, start arcing, heat up and the solder melts. Really enjoy your videos on both channels, keep up the good work!
I'd recommend having the switch between the power cable and the module, rather than the module and the transducer. No need to keep the circuitry on if it's not actually doing anything
If it's something you use constantly, that could be an issue. Depending on the workspace setup, that may mean climbing under the table every time you want to turn it on and off, because the outlet is under the table. This is the case for me, I have everything plugged in 24/7 and keep it turned off unless it's in use. If you're only using it on occasion, it's not such a problem, but then you're still stuck with the knowledge that you built something and were too cheap/lazy to install a damn power switch 😂
@@Tinker_Nerd If the plug is inaccessible then by all means add an inline switch. Kill 2 birds, and add a timer switch if you're so inclined. My 6 plug sockets are under my benches, but I added double spurs and now have 12 outlets I can reach. Might be just me, but I'd prioritise sorting my workshop layout out before building this.
@@docthebiker I absolutely agree, a good workshop layout is vital before taking on any projects. Having a workshop full of inconveniences is all it takes to turn a fun project into an annoying chore
Nice build! A tub that size would have greatly benefitted from having two transducers. You can see the cleaning action is pretty much only in the center. Also if you can find a basket to put stuff in and have it lifted from the bottom, the cleaning area will increase as it did with the aluminum foil that was floating up top, as the ultrasonic action spreads up and out like a V. End of the day it's a good build that will beat a toothbrush with ISO any day :)
Nice work on making your own ultrasonic cleaner, it came out great! :D I look forward to seeing you use it in any future reviews, as well as newer experimental videos from this channel!
At 15:25, the bigger tabs closest to the insulation of the wire should go around the insulation. That's why they are bigger and longer to wrap around the insulation. The smaller tabs, which you crushed completely flat, they should grab the bare copper. If the wire bends to many times, in your current state, it will break just after the 2 bigger tabs and you have a loose disconnected wire. If the tabs would grab the insulation, it would prevent it. It seems the black wire was done correctly.
These terminals were installed completely incorrectly here. They're designed to be crimped onto the stripped end of a wire using the proper crimping tool, not by soldering. The wider & shorter tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the exposed wire, and the longer & thinner tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the insulated wire.
hey! great build! i wish I'd done that instead of buying a cheap one. Just a note, you should use a elevated plastic or ruber mat (with holes ) on the bottom, or else putting hard materials (glass, metal) straight on the bottom can ear the bottom of your tank (what with all the vibration).
Nice! I'd be tempted to do the same if I already didn't have a 10l ultrasonic cleaner. BTW, the best drill bits for plastic are glass and masonry bits, with a good edge. Masonry bits scrape off the material and don't bite into it, while metal and timber bits try to cut into material and cause all kinds of problems.
It's not possible to drill steel backwards successfully. Furthermore these cheap drill press don't come with reverse drive. And the chuck's jaws rotate in the right direction. Conclusion: Shutter speed / drill speed mismatch fools the camera here. The drillbit is blunt, though. These cheap titan plated drillbits are crap. Hardly even worth resharpening. But they don't advertise that. So people buy them. I do too, when i'm tight on money.
The transducer should come with a threaded plug that is designed to be TIG welded to the stainless tank. Then the transducer gets screwed down hard onto that with a smear of Sikaflex bedding compound. This greatly extends the life of the transducer as it gets cooled directly from the tank rather than hoping enough heat gets passed across an epoxy barrier, which when using the five minute handyman types can fail quickly due to excessive heat. JB weld or a similar metal rich epoxy may prove much more effective in the long term, if choosing epoxy as the connection medium... There was a lot of interest in fitting ultrasonic emitters to boat hulls a few years back instead of applying anti foul coatings. A lot of people found out the hard way that bonding the sonic generators to any surface permanently is way harder than first thought...
Can you please tell me for a 200l metal tank or drum how many ultrasonic generators I will need? The material to be cleaned is the dirt embedded in the beeswax frames and I don't know what frequency I should use in this experiment. Can you help me, please, since you understand a lot about the subject? Thanks.
On top of your valuable comment, I can add that the epoxy itself or any type of glue can damp the waves significantly and full power may not transfer to the tank itself.
Magnífico proyecto mi querido amigo......Por lo cual, le doy mi más efusiva enhorabuena.......Solo un par de detalles......Le recomiendo que el recipiente metálico o la cubeta la conecte a Tierra o masa de su instalación eléctrica.....Para prevenir posibles derivaciones directas o indirectas y proteger su integridad física.....Una duda que tengo....¿podemos añadir algún liquido que a la vez nos ayude a quitar más óxido a la pieza que hemos sumergido?.....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España)................
7:14 You've wired the phase into the neutral and vice versus: Brown & Red are live, Black & Blue are Neutral. 13:26 The Earth really should be attached to the metal water bath; also the cut Earth (green wire) could randomly touch parts of your PCB. Tight grommets or silicone would be nice around the wire / switch case penetrations. Very interesting to see the insides, thanks!
Very nice idea and a great build of the mechanical part. As an electrician I am almost horrified. Some points are already mentioned in other comments like the connector pins that aren´t crimped as they should be or the switch that has to be in the power line instead of the output. Then I recommend using a cable gland for the power line instead of making a knot. Or fixing the control board properly inside the box with some spacers and screws. Last thing would be not be absolutely necessary, but when using a power line with a PE, connect it to the metal frame even if there should never be any contact between frame and power line. But when it´s there anyway, why not use it?
Nice project! I do have some constructive criticism concerning the soldering. 8:00 It would be a lot easier to solder the wires if you pre-tinned them and the area you were soldering to. Solder sticks to solder better than to untinned metal. 11:06 The soldered wires have spiky protrusions that could theoretically poke through the heatshrink. Especially the red wire. This is why it might be better to cut each wire to a different length so the extension points don't line up with each other. This way even if the heatshrink insulation fails the chance of a short will be lower. 12:53 I'm a little concerned about the loose wire strands. To avoid this it might be better to twist the strands together after stripping the insulation and then tin them. This way the strands will keep together.
Hi, although this video is almost 2 years old (til now), you did a great job. Thanks from Ecuador, SouthAmerica. I noticed something that may be apreciated by many of us hobbists, wich is the kind of liquids or solutions for each case of cleaning. Some mention warm/hot /no water with detergent/isopropilic alcohol/thinner/etc. but all there are briefly mentioned in different videos. For example, just I learn from your video that rusty iron can be (accurately?) cleaned with vinegar and some time at the ultrasonic cleaner. In my case I'm craving to find a way to clean dollar coins found in the beach that have black stains, sometimes sand and broken seashell stick to them making it to look like a bigger dark stone. Watches, keys and some jewerly run the same fate. Anyway, I found your video useful and it will go to my library of knowledge.
Awesome build! Although do you think that maybe it would have better efficiency/power transfer if you welded a bolt to the tank that fits the ultrasonic generator and screwed the generator on in addition to the epoxy? I feel like the epoxy would come apart over time maybe not so much because it degraded but because the vibrations just breaks the bond between the metal and epoxy. So by having the majority of the power transfer through the bolt it would help longevity as well as a more direct power transfer but I could be wrong because the shape of the generator is important as well, it works on the same principal as an antenna, it matches the impedance to allow more efficient power transfer but it also makes me wonder why they have that threading on the output. Just a thought.
Very creative work. I think it would be better to apply some covering to solder joints to prevent oxidation. And also it would be eeasy if a drain outlet is added to the tank.
Things should not touch the bottom and only water can be placed in the ultrasonic cleaner, aggressive substances can be placed in another container and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Sorry for my english :)
I would recommend JB weld for the transducer to tank joint... much stronger and harder for a better ultrasonic transparent / transmission joint. Good looking build. Subbed here.
No i haven't got a video about it, I might make one at some point with a little upgraded design but it simply has similar design that you have in motor when the piston moves up and and it's converted to circular motion. But on this one it converts the rotation of the drill into a back and forth movement at the bottom of the paint can holder
@@Odd_Experiments After re-watching I see it was using a drill. I have enough info to attempt to make one for myself. Thanks OE. So very clever you are!!!
For a good and fast soldering: first put tin on each part to be connected, place them in contact as desired and approach the tip (well tinned) of the soldering iron: the heat is transmitted instantly to the entire connection , the tin is evenly distributed over the entire surface in 2 seconds and the soldering iron can be removed. The weld is homogeneous, solid (no "sticking") and aesthetic.
This would have saved me some bucks. Just a small suggestion. You can put a control valve similar to a water faucet at one end. That will allow you to drain it without removing the tub
This is a brilliant idea, to use these stainless steel mini tubs. I wanted to build one myself but I didn't find any tubs. I ended up buying a 400 dolar ultrasonic cleaner Form Ali :))
For larger holes in plastic use a step drill. Its so much easyer. Try it. Also get a crimping tool of aliexpress for those wire connectors. Works way better then pliers
Anyone else see the drill bit rotating Backwards? , ,. 3:08 as it comes to a stop, pause then single frame the video backward, you can tell for sure then.
@@DfknG85 Nah, it was spinning backwards, you can tell by the direction of the flutes. Also, it didn't make a single chip and just brute forced its way through.
Why did you put the switch on the output side rather than the power input? Is the circuitry OK with sudden changes in load that that would create? You'll have to keep it unplugged from the mains when not in use so it doesn't consume power (not an arduous task).
Good work 👍 Yeah...the PE/Ground but it's almost a plastic case. but I would do it anyway, just in case. Water/metal Container/230V ... But there is one thing you have to change as fast as possible ! You have build the PCB into a air&water tight case. But you have to know that the PCB gets very hot! If you don't take care of airflow the PCB and the Transducer distroy itself by overheating. One PC fan is minimum for airflow.
Yikes, the comments are pretty ruthless, but I guess it's warranted. Just goes to show the difference in viewers between OT & OE. Much more technically inclined viewers on here. I definitely didn't pick up on all the flaws of this build myself. Maybe put a disclaimer in the description; "for entertainment purposes only"
I would actually say this is dangerous. To the point if someone was to follow the video, chances are they'd kill themselves. It's horrendous to be honest.
Cool! but I would d have considered using two Transducers for a cleaner of that size. Also putting in a heating element and a basket to lift items of the bottom of the pan. Nice build though.
Good video. Thanks. I think that the epoxy should be a certain thickness (and hardness). You might have used shims to hold the transducer at the correct distance from the metal.
Wonderful build. I am concerned about the quality of these Chinese driving boards. How long did you driver board last. You may add an earth wire to the tank
Circuit board has 2 transformers and they produce heat. You need a bigger box with in and out venting with a cooling fan . Also a suspended wire basket so items to be cleaned will be able to get treated evenly and not destroy the bottom of the pan.
May I suggest first attaching your wires and terminals mechanically and then applying solder. In the event your end up with a cold solder joint, then your wire will still pass maximum current. With a cold solder joint, the current may be forced to pass via the solder material and that could develop unwanted heat and possibly result in a fire hazard. Make sure the wires are always twisted together where possible before soldering. Apply a small amount of solder to the soldering tip then use the tip to heat up the wire. Once the wire reaches the temperature, then melt the solder onto the wire (not the soldering iron tip) so that it flows. The Ultrasonic Emitter needs maximum conductivity to work properly. Hope this helps.
Within the “speaker” area the effect is immediate, but it decreases at more external zones. I think that more speakers could help having a constant action inside the bowl. And considering cost I think that’s one of the things is convenient to buy instead build it : less than 80 euros for a 3 liter tank, less than 120 for a 6 liter one, all stainless steel, with temperature and frequency adjustments, timer, lid and drain tap.
I would have used thermal conducive epoxy to mount the transducer. That way, the tank can become a heat sink to cool it and perhaps help the transducer last longer.
Thank your for the idea for this build. I wonder, if you have made any calculations before the building about how many vibrating engine you will equip? I mean, why have you used only one engine? Would not be this tool more effective with 2 engines? Thanks for your answer. ;-)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Valeu!
You should've connect the PE-wire to frame and made sure the tank grounds through the frame
I'd recommend using crimp terminals (e.g. ring abiko) for connecting the ultrasonic transducer instead of soldering, there are holes after all in the terminals. Likewise, would recommend solderless cable extension methods (e.g. Wago terminal blocks), especially when dealing with mains voltages and/or potentially high currents. Better avoid extensions altogether if possible. Soldered connections can cause issues if they form cracks, start arcing, heat up and the solder melts. Really enjoy your videos on both channels, keep up the good work!
Since the container is removable, will need another PE on it. He can change to 3 point plug instead of the two
@@subramaniamchandrasekar1397 that's true. Maybe but a ground distribution block in junction box
@@simoapell2537 Yeah I cringed when he attached the wire with a big blob of solder. That thing is specifically designed to vibrate!
Why is a ground needed? It looks like the system did not come with one.Where do you see a point where, the frame could end up at voltage?
I'd recommend having the switch between the power cable and the module, rather than the module and the transducer. No need to keep the circuitry on if it's not actually doing anything
That's what I was thinking.
Why? Just pull the plug out the wall.
It doesn't really need any power switches if your keeping it simple.
If it's something you use constantly, that could be an issue. Depending on the workspace setup, that may mean climbing under the table every time you want to turn it on and off, because the outlet is under the table. This is the case for me, I have everything plugged in 24/7 and keep it turned off unless it's in use.
If you're only using it on occasion, it's not such a problem, but then you're still stuck with the knowledge that you built something and were too cheap/lazy to install a damn power switch 😂
@@Tinker_Nerd If the plug is inaccessible then by all means add an inline switch.
Kill 2 birds, and add a timer switch if you're so inclined.
My 6 plug sockets are under my benches, but I added double spurs and now have 12 outlets I can reach.
Might be just me, but I'd prioritise sorting my workshop layout out before building this.
@@docthebiker I absolutely agree, a good workshop layout is vital before taking on any projects. Having a workshop full of inconveniences is all it takes to turn a fun project into an annoying chore
Thanks for the video! By the way, you could probably add a faucet to drain water. Then you'll not need to disconnect the transducer etc.
Making it with the connector out of the way under the bowl was super smart for getting rid of the dirty water safely. Nice job 👏
Really cool! A nice upgrade should be a PID controlled heater and timer.
Nice build! A tub that size would have greatly benefitted from having two transducers. You can see the cleaning action is pretty much only in the center. Also if you can find a basket to put stuff in and have it lifted from the bottom, the cleaning area will increase as it did with the aluminum foil that was floating up top, as the ultrasonic action spreads up and out like a V. End of the day it's a good build that will beat a toothbrush with ISO any day :)
Yeah if you're gonna make one, more power!
By the way cleaning electric toothbrush heads inside ultrasonic cleaner is making them almost brand new
And worse leaving something at thé bottom on direct contact will destroy the tank...
4 transducers.
50 to 100 watts of transducer power per gallon of liquid is recommended. Above 100 watts per gallon supposedly causes part erosion to occur.
Nice work on making your own ultrasonic cleaner, it came out great! :D I look forward to seeing you use it in any future reviews, as well as newer experimental videos from this channel!
At 15:25, the bigger tabs closest to the insulation of the wire should go around the insulation. That's why they are bigger and longer to wrap around the insulation. The smaller tabs, which you crushed completely flat, they should grab the bare copper. If the wire bends to many times, in your current state, it will break just after the 2 bigger tabs and you have a loose disconnected wire. If the tabs would grab the insulation, it would prevent it.
It seems the black wire was done correctly.
just wrote that xD
These terminals were installed completely incorrectly here. They're designed to be crimped onto the stripped end of a wire using the proper crimping tool, not by soldering. The wider & shorter tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the exposed wire, and the longer & thinner tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the insulated wire.
I was just about to come and comment that. There's so much bad practice shown in this video, it was hard to watch.
hey! great build! i wish I'd done that instead of buying a cheap one.
Just a note, you should use a elevated plastic or ruber mat (with holes ) on the bottom, or else putting hard materials (glass, metal) straight on the bottom can ear the bottom of your tank (what with all the vibration).
Nice! I'd be tempted to do the same if I already didn't have a 10l ultrasonic cleaner. BTW, the best drill bits for plastic are glass and masonry bits, with a good edge. Masonry bits scrape off the material and don't bite into it, while metal and timber bits try to cut into material and cause all kinds of problems.
Thx for the tip, learned something new today👍
@@joshuavanwyk2664 me too! Never even considered glass/masonry bits for hard plastic.
Nice build. One tip: using some hot air (hairdryer) after mixing the epoxy removes the air bubbles in the epoxy and gives a stronger bound.
one little advise, when your drilling metal at the beginning juste make sure your turning the right way, it was the wrong side
It's not possible to drill steel backwards successfully.
Furthermore these cheap drill press don't come with reverse drive.
And the chuck's jaws rotate in the right direction.
Conclusion: Shutter speed / drill speed mismatch fools the camera here.
The drillbit is blunt, though.
These cheap titan plated drillbits are crap. Hardly even worth resharpening.
But they don't advertise that.
So people buy them. I do too, when i'm tight on money.
I slow it down 0.25 and I saw it turning ccw instead of clockwise thats why it rock so much effort to drill that thin square tube
Perfect thing to watch before bed.
Thank you very much for sharing your video,that's great. from Algeria🇩🇿
That rattle can shaker is PRICELESS!!
The transducer should come with a threaded plug that is designed to be TIG welded to the stainless tank. Then the transducer gets screwed down hard onto that with a smear of Sikaflex bedding compound. This greatly extends the life of the transducer as it gets cooled directly from the tank rather than hoping enough heat gets passed across an epoxy barrier, which when using the five minute handyman types can fail quickly due to excessive heat. JB weld or a similar metal rich epoxy may prove much more effective in the long term, if choosing epoxy as the connection medium... There was a lot of interest in fitting ultrasonic emitters to boat hulls a few years back instead of applying anti foul coatings. A lot of people found out the hard way that bonding the sonic generators to any surface permanently is way harder than first thought...
The wires should have been made into hooks, attached to the tabs and soldered. Never reliy on the soldered alone to provide mechanical support.
The threaded studs can be silver soldered in place as well.
Can you please tell me for a 200l metal tank or drum how many ultrasonic generators I will need? The material to be cleaned is the dirt embedded in the beeswax frames and I don't know what frequency I should use in this experiment. Can you help me, please, since you understand a lot about the subject? Thanks.
On top of your valuable comment, I can add that the epoxy itself or any type of glue can damp the waves significantly and full power may not transfer to the tank itself.
Magnífico proyecto mi querido amigo......Por lo cual, le doy mi más efusiva enhorabuena.......Solo un par de detalles......Le recomiendo que el recipiente metálico o la cubeta la conecte a Tierra o masa de su instalación eléctrica.....Para prevenir posibles derivaciones directas o indirectas y proteger su integridad física.....Una duda que tengo....¿podemos añadir algún liquido que a la vez nos ayude a quitar más óxido a la pieza que hemos sumergido?.....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España)................
Love the drill-powered paint shaker...
7:14 You've wired the phase into the neutral and vice versus: Brown & Red are live, Black & Blue are Neutral.
13:26 The Earth really should be attached to the metal water bath; also the cut Earth (green wire) could randomly touch parts of your PCB.
Tight grommets or silicone would be nice around the wire / switch case penetrations. Very interesting to see the insides, thanks!
AC power..... it's not dc
Very nice idea and a great build of the mechanical part. As an electrician I am almost horrified. Some points are already mentioned in other comments like the connector pins that aren´t crimped as they should be or the switch that has to be in the power line instead of the output. Then I recommend using a cable gland for the power line instead of making a knot. Or fixing the control board properly inside the box with some spacers and screws. Last thing would be not be absolutely necessary, but when using a power line with a PE, connect it to the metal frame even if there should never be any contact between frame and power line. But when it´s there anyway, why not use it?
Nice project!
I do have some constructive criticism concerning the soldering.
8:00 It would be a lot easier to solder the wires if you pre-tinned them and the area you were soldering to. Solder sticks to solder better than to untinned metal.
11:06 The soldered wires have spiky protrusions that could theoretically poke through the heatshrink. Especially the red wire. This is why it might be better to cut each wire to a different length so the extension points don't line up with each other. This way even if the heatshrink insulation fails the chance of a short will be lower.
12:53 I'm a little concerned about the loose wire strands. To avoid this it might be better to twist the strands together after stripping the insulation and then tin them. This way the strands will keep together.
Subscribed for 2 reasons: 1. Interesting little project. 2. Good descriptions.
Hi, although this video is almost 2 years old (til now), you did a great job. Thanks from Ecuador, SouthAmerica. I noticed something that may be apreciated by many of us hobbists, wich is the kind of liquids or solutions for each case of cleaning. Some mention warm/hot /no water with detergent/isopropilic alcohol/thinner/etc. but all there are briefly mentioned in different videos. For example, just I learn from your video that rusty iron can be (accurately?) cleaned with vinegar and some time at the ultrasonic cleaner. In my case I'm craving to find a way to clean dollar coins found in the beach that have black stains, sometimes sand and broken seashell stick to them making it to look like a bigger dark stone. Watches, keys and some jewerly run the same fate. Anyway, I found your video useful and it will go to my library of knowledge.
the spray shaking machine is evolutionary!!!!!!
Awesome build! Although do you think that maybe it would have better efficiency/power transfer if you welded a bolt to the tank that fits the ultrasonic generator and screwed the generator on in addition to the epoxy? I feel like the epoxy would come apart over time maybe not so much because it degraded but because the vibrations just breaks the bond between the metal and epoxy. So by having the majority of the power transfer through the bolt it would help longevity as well as a more direct power transfer but I could be wrong because the shape of the generator is important as well, it works on the same principal as an antenna, it matches the impedance to allow more efficient power transfer but it also makes me wonder why they have that threading on the output. Just a thought.
Good point. The transducer comes with a fitting that is intended to be welded to the tank.
The fitting stud can be silver soldered in place with a common propane torch.
Very nice work, may I suggest adding fan to circuit because these kind of circuits getting very hot.
Your videos are so relaxing and satisfying to watch.
Very creative work. I think it would be better to apply some covering to solder joints to prevent oxidation. And also it would be eeasy if a drain outlet is added to the tank.
I did very similar but to my kitchen sink. It’s some of the best money I’ve ever spent.
Many Thanks! This will be very useful in my future
That can shaker is awesome
Things should not touch the bottom and only water can be placed in the ultrasonic cleaner, aggressive substances can be placed in another container and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Sorry for my english :)
Your English was fine. It made the point. Thanks for pointing it out.
The only reason people put cleaning solutions in smaller glass containers is so as not to waste it by using too much to fill the main container.
only true for flammable stuff, vinegar is just fine
@@ro63rto The descaling agent made a hole in stainless steel tank of my ultrasonic cleaner.
@@vidger908 probably cheap not so stainless Chinese thingy
I would recommend JB weld for the transducer to tank joint... much stronger and harder for a better ultrasonic transparent / transmission joint. Good looking build. Subbed here.
Now I do not need to comment. I also recommend JB weld original steel that ends up gray and hard. The clear stuff is too soft.
I think Odd is based in Finland. Would he even have access to a "JB Weld" there?
J to the MFing B weld
JB weld is also nothing but epoxy. so doesn't matter.
usual epox is rockhard after curing.
I love your spray can shaker!!! Do you have a video on making it? I would have to adapt it to a bench grinder as I have 3 or 4 of them but no lathe.
It looks like it’s just a wooden frame & arm linkage, no lathe involved. He’s using a handheld drill to power it
No i haven't got a video about it, I might make one at some point with a little upgraded design but it simply has similar design that you have in motor when the piston moves up and and it's converted to circular motion. But on this one it converts the rotation of the drill into a back and forth movement at the bottom of the paint can holder
@@Odd_Experiments I am in absolute love. Clever and Homemade, right up my Alley!
@@Odd_Experiments After re-watching I see it was using a drill. I have enough info to attempt to make one for myself. Thanks OE. So very clever you are!!!
Thank you for the warning on the welding/lights!!
Wow you got the shop lol. Nice.
Very nice idea
Great paint can shaker !
@18:23 Just look at the nodes! That was pretty cool.
Won't the constant vibration eventually break the epoxy glue bond?
This is one of the coolest things I have seen from you. Great work!
Yeah. Until it gives you a lethal shock. Not so cool then huh ?
Nice, I keep wanting to get an ultrasonic cleaner myself, I just haven't gotten around to it yet... :P
For a good and fast soldering: first put tin on each part to be connected, place them in contact as desired and approach the tip (well tinned) of the soldering iron: the heat is transmitted instantly to the entire connection , the tin is evenly distributed over the entire surface in 2 seconds and the soldering iron can be removed. The weld is homogeneous, solid (no "sticking") and aesthetic.
Shouldnt of even been welded to the terminals of the transducer, they will break its only a matter of when.
The layman is amazed - and the expert throws up
Yes 😂
Thank you so much ❤🙏
19:26 is it enough for do cleaning to fule injectors or solenoids ?
Gasoline can be used as a cleaning solution?
I think you're supposed to crimp wire insulation under 2nd set of tabs to ensure a very good grip
Great Job.. Thanks for the Video..
This would have saved me some bucks. Just a small suggestion. You can put a control valve similar to a water faucet at one end. That will allow you to drain it without removing the tub
Wow ❗ great video and a perfect build. Thanks for sharing
This is a brilliant idea, to use these stainless steel mini tubs. I wanted to build one myself but I didn't find any tubs. I ended up buying a 400 dolar ultrasonic cleaner Form Ali :))
Nice to have a shop
I recently got one of those soldering irons with the trigger solder feed. It's a wonderful tool
It's just a kiddy toy. The LAST thing that you want is the solder bring fed that way.
Very good ❤
Aawweessoommee!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🥰🥰🥰💓💓💕💞💛💛💗💗😍😍💖💖❤️
For larger holes in plastic use a step drill.
Its so much easyer.
Try it.
Also get a crimping tool of aliexpress for those wire connectors.
Works way better then pliers
6:06 - LOL "I Want One Of Those" - LOL 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Muito top mano, faltou comer refrigerar sistema resto nota 10❤
Nice design, for electronics use isopropyl in the tank.
Nice build!
Anyone else see the drill bit rotating Backwards? , ,. 3:08 as it comes to a stop, pause then single frame the video backward, you can tell for sure then.
Yeah. Whats up with that
that section of video may have been flipped\mirrored for composition
@@DfknG85 Nah, it was spinning backwards, you can tell by the direction of the flutes. Also, it didn't make a single chip and just brute forced its way through.
Thanks dude and i thought i should need a second pair of glases:)
Just saw your comment after noticing the same thing, "this is the crappiest drill bit ever" and at the end it was going backwards :D
Why did you put the switch on the output side rather than the power input? Is the circuitry OK with sudden changes in load that that would create?
You'll have to keep it unplugged from the mains when not in use so it doesn't consume power (not an arduous task).
Good work 👍
Yeah...the PE/Ground but it's almost a plastic case. but I would do it anyway, just in case. Water/metal Container/230V ...
But there is one thing you have to change as fast as possible ! You have build the PCB into a air&water tight case. But you have to know that the PCB gets very hot! If you don't take care of airflow the PCB and the Transducer distroy itself by overheating. One PC fan is minimum for airflow.
Yikes, the comments are pretty ruthless, but I guess it's warranted. Just goes to show the difference in viewers between OT & OE. Much more technically inclined viewers on here.
I definitely didn't pick up on all the flaws of this build myself.
Maybe put a disclaimer in the description; "for entertainment purposes only"
I would actually say this is dangerous. To the point if someone was to follow the video, chances are they'd kill themselves. It's horrendous to be honest.
Such a disclaimer isn't really enough, people can die messing around with mains voltages.
Great video. Can you make a video on your paint can shaker.
Cool! but I would d have considered using two Transducers for a cleaner of that size. Also putting in a heating element and a basket to lift items of the bottom of the pan. Nice build though.
Do you need to ground the container?
Good video. Thanks. I think that the epoxy should be a certain thickness (and hardness). You might have used shims to hold the transducer at the correct distance from the metal.
Great video thanks for sharing with us.
I would never lend you my taps. LOL
Wonderful build. I am concerned about the quality of these Chinese driving boards. How long did you driver board last. You may add an earth wire to the tank
Circuit board has 2 transformers and they produce heat. You need a bigger box with in and out venting with a cooling fan . Also a suspended wire basket so items to be cleaned will be able to get treated evenly and not destroy the bottom of the pan.
Wow nice machine
May I suggest first attaching your wires and terminals mechanically and then applying solder. In the event your end up with a cold solder joint, then your wire will still pass maximum current. With a cold solder joint, the current may be forced to pass via the solder material and that could develop unwanted heat and possibly result in a fire hazard. Make sure the wires are always twisted together where possible before soldering. Apply a small amount of solder to the soldering tip then use the tip to heat up the wire. Once the wire reaches the temperature, then melt the solder onto the wire (not the soldering iron tip) so that it flows. The Ultrasonic Emitter needs maximum conductivity to work properly. Hope this helps.
Nice job , Where did you buy the components
Nice job, do you plan on making a 2.0 with stronger motor and more power?
Hi from france how many transuctor for how many litres thks
Nice 👍
Your switch should connect to the main power supply for safety.
3:05 your drill tip was turning in the wrong direction, it will be damaged very quick
Within the “speaker” area the effect is immediate, but it decreases at more external zones. I think that more speakers could help having a constant action inside the bowl. And considering cost I think that’s one of the things is convenient to buy instead build it : less than 80 euros for a 3 liter tank, less than 120 for a 6 liter one, all stainless steel, with temperature and frequency adjustments, timer, lid and drain tap.
You should add PTC heater in to it
Is it a good idea to run the board without the transducers?I've read many warnings that it might blow up without a load.
good job bro, that gave me a good idea
NICE VIDEO. CAN TELL ME HOW TO COLLEC ULTRASONIC GENERATOR KIT.
i wanna see how u made that paint shaker
Standard epoxy or any special grade? Spec of the transducer please.
I would have used thermal conducive epoxy to mount the transducer. That way, the tank can become a heat sink to cool it and perhaps help the transducer last longer.
Can you do a video on that paint can shaker
Specs of ultrasonic transducer and from where to get it and the generator.
The linked container is only 4 inches deep, where did you get yours?
simple but efficient build
generally, the interrupter is on the hot wire so it should have 2 red wires...
Thank your for the idea for this build. I wonder, if you have made any calculations before the building about how many vibrating engine you will equip? I mean, why have you used only one engine? Would not be this tool more effective with 2 engines? Thanks for your answer. ;-)
bro, will it faster if we attach more transducers to the container ?
Question. Can you fit more than one transducer to that board or do you need one board one transducer.
Could the power transistors not be replaced with CREE Power modules that are designed to work at high power levels.
How long it will last? It is working until now?
what are the wires that you used?
I love how he shakes it to test the glue like that's going to simulate 20khz + frequency 🤣
OMG the paint shaker 🤣