That is SO cool! I'm not an electrician, just a mere mortal, but I do a bit of wiring, and I've never seen these before. Thanks for sharing this information! - Paul, USA
I always use these on multistranded cable wires. Uninsulated bootlace ferrules are also good for a cleaner look and tighter spaces. There are also dual conductor options.
Holy hell. I had a selection of these in a cupboard (with a crimper), having accidentally ordered them rather than ring terminal connectors. Couldn't for the life of me figure out what they were for. Immediately after seeing this, went and put them on all my block terminal cables. So much nicer! They come out with a slightly ribbed texture (horizontally/around the circumference), which I suspect will give a better grip for the solar charge controller terminals especially. Twisted wire in those seem to work themselves out of the terminals at a rate of a mm a month or two.
I've seen this video like a week ago it was a good find now i'm thinking this could be a good thing to use on speaker wires to use them on spring clip audio sockets i wish the plastic tube on this ferrules was a heat shrink tube this will make the connection even more solid, and i wonder if a regular pliers make a good result as the crimping tool
You could try heat shrink over the plastic part of the ferrule, I would use proper crimpers as they make an even crimp and won't crush the cable as pliers probably would.
I've seen a lot of uninsulated ferrules used in removable 13A plugs pre-wired onto appliance or extension cables. As an approximation to this I have put the type shown in this video (with the plastic part) on backwards, crimped, and then cut the plastic part off to give a neat uninsulated ferrule..
I believe the purpose of the ferule is to encourage stranded wire to behave like solid wire when under a screw or clamping connector. A ferule on solid wire is additional resistance (and effort/expense) for no gain in any other area...? BUT.....I'm a mechanical designer....NOT an electrician. Let me know if I'm wrong because I like to learn.
It will add the same amount of resistance whether it is stranded or solid so no real concern there. But on 1mm solid it stops the wire getting crushed by being overtightened in screw connectors causing open circuit. It works for me 🙂
It would have been nice to see a close up of the ferrule after you have crimped it. I have been searching the web for a similar ferrule that does not have the plastic end bit. I think its called shark tooth crimp sleeve.
I did a short which has a closer look at the crimp. ruclips.net/user/shortsN2TUddUx9Fs?si=EcMS2FACaFwnpwEj. Have a search for uninsulated ferrules they might be what you are looking for.👍
I could argue that a screw terminal directly on the solid wire makes a stress point that a ferrule would alleviate? Ferrule’s may be overkill on solid wire but if it prevents a furnace from flaking out at 3 AM when it’s below zero, it’s worth a few pennies and a minute of my time. I think I’ll start doing it on solid wire now. Just started using ferrules on stranded wire and love them, especially on 6 AWG going into my Victron solar charge controllers.
I can’t find any workmanship standards that recommend using ferrules on solid conductors. I know IPC says they are only for stranded untinned wires but I’m not an electrician.
Use a crimp tool with 8 or 6 jaws it makes a better looking cable and stronger. You never use a ferrule on a single strand wire, it's only used on multistrands.
Big fan of boot lace ferrules, however given that the bootlace colours are not mean to represent L,N or E colours, I would not put them on a cable where they would hide the wire colour as you did on the first demonstration. I didn't think you were meant to use them on solid wire.
For small signal this is great. For US house wiring, you should not use these. Here, solid wires to not generally require terminals. For stranded wire, you can either use terminals designed for stranded, UL listed lugs the accept stranded, or UL listed crimp terminals. It would be a code and safety issue to do otherwise, as US UL listed devices are designed to work with bare wire or terminals.
I'm from the UK but yeah I totally agree, the use benefit of these is mostly cosmetic, can be good for stranded wire in terminals designed for solid wire, or the double ones can be good for getting 2 wires in a terminal neatly.
There's nothing better than the right crimp tool for the job. There's nothing worse than not having a crimp tool speaking of special tools: Recep & switch terminal screws Originally: made for flat blade screwdrivers Circa 1970s: made for either flat blade _or_ Phillips screwdrivers 21st Century: new tool created specifically for screws drivable by both flat blade and Phillips screwdrivers. (The tip is a combined Phillips #2 and flat blade) Me: 1) 🤯 2) 😌 3) eagerly awaiting arrival of the combined flat-blade + Phillips + security torx driver.
I'm pleased I watched this because I didn't know about the adjustment cam on the crimper. Now I will go and do some experiments with adjusting my crimper.
As a home DIYer I could not justify the cost of a tool and set for the odd bit of wiring I do. If wire is twisted and solder dipped it produces a solid end. How does that compare?
You'll usually get away with it, preferably with a screw terminal that pushes down a small plate on to the wire instead of the screw directly pushing (and spinning) on to the wire, but little solder flakes can actually come off. Crimped connections are better than soldered.
Those are the most controversial items I ever dealt with. Guys who were good at wiring stuff and making it look good like them. The guys who worked for the national labs nsa etc all hated them and swore they mess up signal quality. So one night we fired up a scope to check digital feed back from a resolver. And yes the signal was crap compared to bare. Still usable but not nearly as clean. Personally I stopped using them 25 years ago. And whatever you do. Don't buy the new China stuff.
what new stuff isn't Chinese? and I assume you are talking communication signals with the degradation and not pure power (low voltage) stuff. can you expand on the "crap signal" you mentioned?
@@50plusdad-uk Ferrules are designed for class5-6 wire ( fine strands ) not for class 1 ( single wire ) or 2 ( multipe single ) wire. It's not because it works fine .. it 's made for the purpuse .. also it depends on the terminal type .. for class5-6 wire it's really needed on a screwterminal ( screw pushing on the cable ) . I using it in a WAGO 221 it's not needed ..
Thanks for watching 😄
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That is SO cool! I'm not an electrician, just a mere mortal, but I do a bit of wiring, and I've never seen these before. Thanks for sharing this information!
- Paul, USA
No problem Thanks for watching 🙂
2:13 Finally a video that shows what it looks like after its been in the terminal block. Thank you!!
No problem thanks for watching 😁👍
@@50plusdad-uk You're welcome 🙂
This is one of those things, that you needed, but didn't know you needed. Thanks, my set is on its way.
Hope you enjoy it!
I’ve never come across those before. As you said, seems a great idea when using screw connectors. 👍🏻🔧
They are really useful on thin wire, they protect the wire but also give you something to push it home with.
I was teached not to twist the copper before inserted in the ferrule
@@rwd1973 tought
I always use these on multistranded cable wires. Uninsulated bootlace ferrules are also good for a cleaner look and tighter spaces. There are also dual conductor options.
Nice tip.👍
Holy hell. I had a selection of these in a cupboard (with a crimper), having accidentally ordered them rather than ring terminal connectors. Couldn't for the life of me figure out what they were for.
Immediately after seeing this, went and put them on all my block terminal cables. So much nicer!
They come out with a slightly ribbed texture (horizontally/around the circumference), which I suspect will give a better grip for the solar charge controller terminals especially. Twisted wire in those seem to work themselves out of the terminals at a rate of a mm a month or two.
Perfect, you see buying random stuff off the Internet does work out eventually 🤣👍👍
I've seen this video like a week ago it was a good find now i'm thinking this could be a good thing to use on speaker wires to use them on spring clip audio sockets i wish the plastic tube on this ferrules was a heat shrink tube this will make the connection even more solid, and i wonder if a regular pliers make a good result as the crimping tool
You could try heat shrink over the plastic part of the ferrule, I would use proper crimpers as they make an even crimp and won't crush the cable as pliers probably would.
Also useful for terminating bicycle brake/gear cables.
Stop the ends from fraying, Nice tip 👍
I discovered ferrules a few years ago. I use them constantly now.
I think they look good and make pushing small cables into connectors so much easier.
I've seen a lot of uninsulated ferrules used in removable 13A plugs pre-wired onto appliance or extension cables. As an approximation to this I have put the type shown in this video (with the plastic part) on backwards, crimped, and then cut the plastic part off to give a neat uninsulated ferrule..
I've seen that done, saves having different types that you don't use much.👍👍
Ferrules on solid cable? I'm not convinced.
I've used them to send composite video over 200ft of cat5 with no issues, it's an option.🙂
I believe the purpose of the ferule is to encourage stranded wire to behave like solid wire when under a screw or clamping connector. A ferule on solid wire is additional resistance (and effort/expense) for no gain in any other area...? BUT.....I'm a mechanical designer....NOT an electrician. Let me know if I'm wrong because I like to learn.
It will add the same amount of resistance whether it is stranded or solid so no real concern there. But on 1mm solid it stops the wire getting crushed by being overtightened in screw connectors causing open circuit. It works for me 🙂
Thank you for the video I've got one of these so all of the strands get crimped and are secure in say a 3D driver board. Thank you again.
No problem 👍
It would have been nice to see a close up of the ferrule after you have crimped it. I have been searching the web for a similar ferrule that does not have the plastic end bit. I think its called shark tooth crimp sleeve.
I did a short which has a closer look at the crimp. ruclips.net/user/shortsN2TUddUx9Fs?si=EcMS2FACaFwnpwEj.
Have a search for uninsulated ferrules they might be what you are looking for.👍
Great work. If that was 7 core stranded copper conductors it’s recommended not to bootlace them
👍
I had one of this, very handy.
It's a great bit of kit.
Bootlace ferrules should never be used on solid core cable. By crimping them on all you are doing is creating a weak point by the crimp tool.
Try adjusting the tool properly. You shouldn't be crushing the cable.👍
I could argue that a screw terminal directly on the solid wire makes a stress point that a ferrule would alleviate? Ferrule’s may be overkill on solid wire but if it prevents a furnace from flaking out at 3 AM when it’s below zero, it’s worth a few pennies and a minute of my time. I think I’ll start doing it on solid wire now. Just started using ferrules on stranded wire and love them, especially on 6 AWG going into my Victron solar charge controllers.
Agree but no one uses solid anymore. Bootlaces are required by law for flex cable when installed in a non clamping terminal.
@@geoffgeoff143solid that's all that's used in domestic fixed wiring below 4mm. Unless your not in uk
I can’t find any workmanship standards that recommend using ferrules on solid conductors. I know IPC says they are only for stranded untinned wires but I’m not an electrician.
Use a crimp tool with 8 or 6 jaws it makes a better looking cable and stronger. You never use a ferrule on a single strand wire, it's only used on multistrands.
@@leosedf can you use them to combine 2 or more solid wires into one connector?
Try these amzn.to/3XfYJZs without tool or amzn.to/4dZYEim with the crimp tool
How do crimp-on ferrules compair to dip-soldered wire?
I always tin the ends of stranded cable before inserting into a clamping connector.
I like dip solder on external car stuff crimps etc as in my mind its a bit more moisture resistant.
When I only have 2 or 4 wires to connect, what if I stiffen the end of the wire by covering it with tin and then screw it on?
If you solder it, it should be ok
Great, I wish they were required here in the USA. Much cleaner.
They’re not required in the US? How comes?? 😳
They are Marmite some love it some hate it. 😁
I bought them from Aliexpress! Very cheap in any gauge you like.
Big fan of boot lace ferrules, however given that the bootlace colours are not mean to represent L,N or E colours, I would not put them on a cable where they would hide the wire colour as you did on the first demonstration. I didn't think you were meant to use them on solid wire.
Thanks for watching, the first is the 12v output from an led transformer no polarity label and both cables are white, but I do get what you mean 👍
For small signal this is great. For US house wiring, you should not use these. Here, solid wires to not generally require terminals. For stranded wire, you can either use terminals designed for stranded, UL listed lugs the accept stranded, or UL listed crimp terminals. It would be a code and safety issue to do otherwise, as US UL listed devices are designed to work with bare wire or terminals.
I'm from the UK but yeah I totally agree, the use benefit of these is mostly cosmetic, can be good for stranded wire in terminals designed for solid wire, or the double ones can be good for getting 2 wires in a terminal neatly.
There's nothing better than the right crimp tool for the job. There's nothing worse than not having a crimp tool
speaking of special tools: Recep & switch terminal screws
Originally: made for flat blade screwdrivers
Circa 1970s: made for either flat blade _or_ Phillips screwdrivers
21st Century: new tool created specifically for screws drivable by both flat blade and Phillips screwdrivers. (The tip is a combined Phillips #2 and flat blade)
Me:
1) 🤯
2) 😌
3) eagerly awaiting arrival of the combined flat-blade + Phillips + security torx driver.
I'm pleased I watched this because I didn't know about the adjustment cam on the crimper. Now I will go and do some experiments with adjusting my crimper.
I'm glad it helped you out 👍
Nice.
Thanks
That problem with wire getting crushed is even worse with copper clad aluminum wire.
👍. Not a fan of cca
@@50plusdad-uk
Me either but I didn't buy it I just installed it.
Today I learned that you can adjust these tools doh.
🤣🤣👍
As a home DIYer I could not justify the cost of a tool and set for the odd bit of wiring I do. If wire is twisted and solder dipped it produces a solid end. How does that compare?
You'll usually get away with it, preferably with a screw terminal that pushes down a small plate on to the wire instead of the screw directly pushing (and spinning) on to the wire, but little solder flakes can actually come off. Crimped connections are better than soldered.
@@jimmybrad156 Makes sense, thank you.
I think anything that stops the wire from breaking and more reliable as got to be a good thing👍
Those are the most controversial items I ever dealt with. Guys who were good at wiring stuff and making it look good like them. The guys who worked for the national labs nsa etc all hated them and swore they mess up signal quality. So one night we fired up a scope to check digital feed back from a resolver. And yes the signal was crap compared to bare. Still usable but not nearly as clean. Personally I stopped using them 25 years ago. And whatever you do. Don't buy the new China stuff.
@tonywatson1412 What benefits do you get? How does it effect impedance? They are not invisible to the system.
what new stuff isn't Chinese? and I assume you are talking communication signals with the degradation and not pure power (low voltage) stuff. can you expand on the "crap signal" you mentioned?
You should not put ferules on solid wire!
Don't use on single core only multi stranded
I use them on 1mm solid, works fine
@@50plusdad-uk Ferrules are designed for class5-6 wire ( fine strands ) not for class 1 ( single wire ) or 2 ( multipe single ) wire.
It's not because it works fine .. it 's made for the purpuse .. also it depends on the terminal type .. for class5-6 wire it's really needed on a screwterminal ( screw pushing on the cable ) . I using it in a WAGO 221 it's not needed ..
Ferrules aren't meant to be used on solid wires, mate. They're only for stranded.
Yes but they will stop 1mm getting crushed in screw terminals 🙂👍