Years ago I installed electronic equipment in industrial facilities. Some places wanted us to use ferrules to connect stranded wire to circuit breakers. The company bought insulated ferrules for us to use. But since we didn't know any better we tried to crimp them with a standard wire crimper. Since we didn't like the way it crimped we just didn't use them. now I know why.
Nate, I've been following you and Steph for several years and I'm overdue in giving HUGE kudos to you two as your videos are hands-down the BEST tutorials regarding anything solar. Although I'm only in the planning stage of what it is I would like to build solar-wise, I will definitely purchase products via your links. Really enjoy the adventures you two share - keep the great videos comin'!!!
Here in Belgium ferrules are mandatory for all flexible wiring in permanent installations. But I use them with ALL stranded/flexible wiring, even low voltage applications.
Would be nice to have a video series on all the common crimping and connector types including soldering covering when to use, when to avoid, and how to do it.
Well done series, im binging the whole Playlist. I'm competent in wiring but I genuinely appreciate your videos as you've taught me a few things. Thanks!
I like insulated ferrules for connections that have built in strain relief immediately below. Adding heat shrink adds a bit of additional strain relief for 'hanging' connections.
Vibration can cause fine wire strands to break and ferrules prevent this. He probably goes into this on his blog, but a “square” crimper is best for ‘pockets’ that have flat contact surfaces. A “hex” crimp is best for pockets with a rounded surface, often seen on smaller wiring.
I like using insulated ferrules where the connection happens inside of an enclosure that has strain relief going into the enclosure. Where the ferrules are exposed, I like using heat shink w/ adhesive for added strain relief.
Thank you for the video. Ferrules are great, yet expensive! I was looking at the wires into the terminals, and I didn't like how screw just punches into the wire threads. It looks unfinished, and ferrules is the solution, and I appreciate that you mentioned that in Europe, they require it, in order to pass.
If (like me) you want to use high awg (0-8) ferrules in circular terminals, use the set screw ITSELF to crimp the ferrule and use heat shrink to keep the ferrule in place while setting the screw. Got that from a stereo channel.
As a last ditch effort, that's fine, but the wiring kits found in our store at shop.explorist.life and the components we design them for are designed so we have the proper tools for the job. We don't have any components that require a 2 AWG circular ferrule, so that guesswork is taken out of the equation for our customers.
Heys guys thanks for all the great informative videos. I’ve already upgraded some of my tools and work methods. Bring on some more. Dan - Oklahoma Tumbleweeds.
I started using ferrules. I like using them. Some devices such as charge controllers have a metal plate that compresses the incoming wire connection and the device has torque specifications. If you use ferrules what torque setting should you use? Do you need ferrules when using them on devices that compress the incoming wires? Is there a difference on how to use ferrules with large strands in the wire vs small but many small strands in the wire. Thank you for this video.
I recommend ferrules in all use cases unless there is a really specific reason to not use them. We have ferrules in their appropriate kits over in our store at shop.explorist.life. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help if you need some additional clarification/guidance: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Great video! A question though. Reading the Victron solar charge controller manual, they are very particular about calling out the need for fine stranded wire (even specifying the gauge of each strand) in order for the copper conductor to fully conform to the wire connection clamp, resulting in the highest contact area and lowest resistance. Doesn't using a ferrule in this case reduce the contact area and go against Victron's guidance? I'm very curious on this point. I definitely see where a square crimp would be better than a hexagonal crimp for maintaining surface contact but it still seems the bare strands would provide lower contact resistance? Thanks for your amazing work! I've just discovered it and it will be a great help in expanding the solar/inverter/charging system in my Airstream trailer.
Ferrules are incredibly flexible and just hold the wires together. Once the ferrule'd wire goes into the terminal and the terminal is tightened, it will shape the ferruled wire even further. As far as 'victron's guidance' though, I wouldn't have known about ferrules if it hadn't been for being introduced to them by Victrons product engineers/developers I've been working with since 2019.
Thank you for all your videos! I am working on a 2019 Sprinter 2500 144 WB crew. I should have bought your kits, but bought a few small Blue Sea components like their breaker box fuse box combo, and a Bestek 2000W inverter. Not sure what I am doing, so did not buy any lithium batteries. Just trying to prewire so need a very basic kit from you: 16awg for MAXX air fan and all connections and outlets you feel necessary for a very simply set up. Solar to be added later, for now I bought Wago 10awg connectors, but that is it. How can I email you and purchase appropriate supplies? Janice Port Angeles, WA
Nate, did you ever go over the process of just running, channeling, and poking wires thru the van. Is there a better way to get them to stick in places? Did you use split tubing to protect the wires? or any other ideas?
I know you have covered a lot and I am still in the process of learning and absorbing the info. But I don't believe I saw anything about running the wires thru the van and best practices to do that. thanks for your time.
I am following the digram you have for the Renogy 3000W inverter charger. Is it still okay to use the Victron lynx distributor in this setup? or do I need the positive and negative bus bar? Thanks so much! Your videos are extremely helpful
It’s kind of overkill but when doing commercial work we would use an oxidation preventative. Dissimilar metals with electrical current going through them creates an oxide which is not very conductive. We would twist the copper wires put a very thin coating of ox-gard or like product and then crimp the aluminum ferrules. Like I said it’s probably overkill.
That would be pretty much a requirement when working with aluminum-to-copper. Copper-to-copper does not require it as most types of mechanical connections readily create a long-term-stable, relatively-gas-tight interface between copper conductors.
Hi Nate. Just found out your website/blogs. From what I read you’re definitely one of the best! Started my conversion And I have a question for you. some of my wiring from my solar panel are too long. Should I shorten it so it’s easier to zip tied the wires? The wires from panels are 1x2.5 mm (so 13Awg) but my extentions from roof to inside electrical are (8 AWG as per sizing). I kinda need 2 crimping tools (wire size difference) …. Or the metal crimpimg parts are similar size? Any suggestions thanks and keep the good work! I will be following you!
2AWG was shown in the blog post. Bigger than that just requires a bigger ferrule crimper. They exist, but ultimately, 2AWG is the biggest wire ferrule you'll need to crimp in a camper electrical system.
I'd like to know the pros and Cons of using a wire ferrule at the vehicle battery with a "Crush" type battery terminal. Sticking raw wire in a port then tightening down an Allen head to crush the loose wire doesn't sound as neat and clean as using ferrule. Also, raw wire where the jacket ends is probably susceptible to moisture or condensation and that'll promote oxidation to the point where You may have to pull it out in a year or whatever and strip it back and re-clamp the fresh wire. So what's wrong with using a ferrule on a 2 AWG cable? Thanks in advance for your reply.-Mike
I'm not sure how many more pros/cons I can provide above and beyond what I discussed in the video. It sounds like you have an idea, so maybe run with it and see how it works.
Love this! Nothing I hate more than messy wiring situations. Wondering if there is a more economical way to crimp this ferrules - hoping to avoid buying 3 tools around $30-$40 each.
As an American, I'm not used to using ferrules, and I'm wondering what things, as a DIY guy, that i might do day in and day out, that could benefit from ferrules. For instance, i don't expect to be doing much, if any, 110/120v electrical work, and if I'm doing anything currently, it's simple stuff like 5v/12v/24v LED strips(usually whatever i can get in an all in one kit from Menards or Home Depot), but I'm wondering how these could save me time in the future. Now, don't get me wrong, i know how they help in the DIY (or professional) car audio industry, but that only 1 specialized use case, and I'm just trying to find some things that i might do at some point, that would be something i regularly do, that would work best with ferrules... Yes, i know that if I have to ask, then it's probably something I will never need, but it is still something I would like to know, because currently I can think of only one project I currently have that might benefit from using ferrules, and even then, I would be using at most 8 of them, and obviously 8 isn't really a big enough number to justify having a ferrule crimper on hand for...
I have not. I have a running list of 43 companies who want me to review/compare their batteries to each other, but turning the channel into "Nates Battery Review Channel" is not something I can get excited about. The Victron batteries are great batteries, though. They do have an external BMS, so their setup and wiring is a bit more 'involved', but it's a good system nontheless.
Greetings Nate, Thanks for ALL the helpful vids! I've learned a lot. Since I have only a couple of wires to do, what's your thought on just tinning the wire? Thanks, Larry
I recommend ferrules over tinning. The heat necessary to tin the wire can cause the insulation and wire to become brittle applications where it is subjected to vibration.
Hey Nate. Is a square crimp ferrule better than a hex crimp? I have heard hex crimps should be used in circle sockets as opposed to square sockets. The Solar panel disconnect you recommend has a circle socket but i noticed you use a square crimp ferrule. Thanks
I noticed there's nothing mentioned for larger sizes like 00. Are ferrules still useful at this size? I'm planning an install and I know already that the battery disconnect and the fuse holder are both made for direct wire insert, not lugs/rings.
I don't have any equipment that I recommend that requires a 2/0 ferrule. The largest ferrule in use in any of my diagrams at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams is 2 AWG. Anything larger (battery disconnects and fuse holders included) get lugs.
If you’re going to use them in a screw terminal AND you subsequently torque the screw terminal sufficiently, then it’ll be fine. But for spring terminals, the answer is an unequivocal NO, and for that application, where the ferrule crimper is responsible for ALL of the squeezing of the ferrule onto the wire, I wouldn’t even consider using a cheap ferrule crimper, I would only trust a high-quality one (name brand, so about $150 and up).
Are the ferrules steel or aluminum. I wouldn't think steel would be a good idea b/c of it's resistance (lower conductivity) which would make it heat up when in use.
Better than that... consider checking out our full solar charging wiring kits that have everything needed to connect solar panels to the lynx distributor (inculding the appropriate ferrulles). Most of the smaller arrays w/ less than 440W have the 100/30: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Is the crimping tool the same kind of tool used for the smaller ferrules . I need to crimp 0awg ferrules for 0 awg gage wire and not sure about the crimper I need to look for ....
Each crimping tool is rated for a particular range of wire sizes. Here is one for 0 AWG: hausoftools.com/products/greenlee-k28gl-trapezoidal-crimper-fc7-1-0?variant=33001326673943¤cy=USD&
Bought a HSC9 16/4 (square) ferrule crimper. One 16mm2 AWG#6 wire pulled out of the ferrule. The first 10mm2 AWG#8 jammed the tool. I got the wire out, tool still jammed. Squeezed more, deformed the empty ferrule into a + shape. Watched another RUclips video, where they said, as you do, that it releases when fully closed, so pressed more, and it opened ok. Messaged the seller, who said there is a small lever, that clicks into place (first click) when crimping; in the slot on the moving handle, between the plier handles, that can be used to release it.
We have ferrules that are made to join two wires in one ferrule. It's very simple. Add the wire sizes, and then get the ferrule that is that size or one up. For me it is simpler because I am used to metric wire sizes and they add up nicely. A double ferrule often has a plastic sleeve that is not round but flat, to accomodate two wires instead of one.
That is not advised for mobile applications. The point where the wire gets hot from soldering can create a weak point when subjected to vibration can work-harden and break. Soldering like you talked about is fine for most stationary applications where vibration is not an issue, but ferrules are preferred for mobile/marine applications.
2:06 Buy ferrules with collars instead. If you must heatshrink, which isn’t really necessary, don’t cover so much of the ferrule itself - you don’t want any chance of having heatshrink in the contact area of your terminal.
Not so much. Heating wires from soldering can make the wires and the insulation brittle which is a bad deal when it comes to installing this stuff in a camper because of all of the vibrations when driving down the road. Plus, crimping a ferrule onto the end is so much faster, easier, and more approachable to somebody, who perhaps, has never soldered anything before. Soldering is MAYBE better than nothing, but IMO, it's not really comparable.
Tinning the ends of a cable like that is a bad idea because it makes the end very hard and doesn't allow the screw terminal to compress the end, which makes the connection very prone to becoming loose. Like trying to grab a hardened rod with pliers, you need some give to get a good grip.
I used to solder the ends (aka "tin" the ends). Ferrules work phenomenally better. Where the solder meets the unsoldered part the wire is stiff then not stiff, so the not stiff frays and breaks. Even with a bit of heat shrink tubing. A crimped ferrule has a more gradual transition to uncrimped wire which is easy to support with a bit of heat shrink. When you clamp the soldered bit under a screw it squishes out ("plastic deformation") and the squish increases every time the wire gets hot and cold or vibrates, resulting in continually loose connections. The compressed wire and ferrule clamps solidly and does not continue to deform. Tinning the ends is easy to heat damage the insulation, making it stiff and/or brittle (an expert can usually avoid). Crimping and heat shrink doesn't heat damage insulation (but you might if you use a flame to shrink the tubing!).
DO NOT tin with solder if you’re using screw terminals. Solder cold-flows under pressure and the connection can loosen with time, causing a fire hazard.
So after putting the ferral on, the ferral is what's used to make the connection or do i leave enough wire out to wrap around the screw at the connection point?
The ferrule makes the connection, but ferrules aren't good options for connections where you need to 'wrap a wire around a screw'. You want to use a fork or ring terminal for something like that. Example: ruclips.net/video/en6Q2L6Bf3A/видео.html
Great videos. Thank you! Question - my local auto electric guy says I need a 12 Volt to 100 Watt converter in order to charge my solar batteries from my alternator. I purchased the battery isolator linked from your diagrams. It appears the Victron items you install have this charger included in their inverter? I discovered your videos after I purchased another brand. Can you possibly suggest a 12 volt to 100 watt converter?
If you are trying to charge from your alternator, you can use either an Isolator or a DC to DC Charger as shown in my diagrams at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams. There is no such thing as a "12 Volt to 100 Watt Converter" so there must have been some miscommunication there.
Fundamentally no, not recommended, because crimping more than once can cause them to fracture. But I would do it if I had to bulk up a thin wire to get it to crimp securely.
Nobody can tell me where to find a octagonal 4 gauge wire crimper like the one shown in this video. They seem to not exist.. problem is I don't want one that smashes them flat I want one that makes a nice round shape
Ok, so now I need a ferule crimper as well... Didn't think about that when I ordered a wiring kit for the upgraded motherboard for my 3d printer. Didn't even know what to call the damn things, I've been looking for something like this for years. Well, maybe not so much looking, but wishing I would stumble across them. Finally did though... Yeah, most things you can just use bare wire, but it's gonna be more durable as well as cleaner and no chance of a stray wire shorting out the circuit. So makes sense, of course they haven't caught on here... The land of illogical bullshit...
Are they really necessary though? About as necessary as convincing everyone to buy victron. Just saying. I think your presentations are very good but the ferrules thing 🤔
I did not know about these. I was surprised to find that my Victron Charge Controller had the screw type connections for a 45 amp load and it made me nervous. I'll definitely use ferrules to improve the connection and reliability of the termination. It's a shame that I have to buy a freakin' crimper for four connections. Victron needs to change their design - it's a weak spot.
Glad I was able to teach ya something new! Screw type terminals are pretty much industry standard for charge controllers. Victron, Outback, Morningstar, Midnite, Renogy, and many more all use screw type terminals for their charge controllers up to 100 amps. They are UL listed and totally safe.
Trust me when you get a crimper and some ferrules, every wire will look like it needs a ferrule on it, I just got one and a box of ferrules, never knew I need one until then and now I will not go without ferruling every wire end I come across.
Great video. Thank you for NOT being a minute hog like so many other RUclipsrs.
I love how short and detailed the vids are.
I've seen 15 plus minutes videos that doesn't show any practical use of this. Thanks Explorist!
As more and more people are going solar your videos are going to be invaluable for the next decade.
Been getting heavy into car audio and have noticed these being sold a lot. Had no clue. Now I do. Thank you 😅
Years ago I installed electronic equipment in industrial facilities. Some places wanted us to use ferrules to connect stranded wire to circuit breakers. The company bought insulated ferrules for us to use. But since we didn't know any better we tried to crimp them with a standard wire crimper. Since we didn't like the way it crimped we just didn't use them. now I know why.
The ferrulles also are great in applications where there is vibration - stranded wire will vibrate loose without ferrules!
Nate, I've been following you and Steph for several years and I'm overdue in giving HUGE kudos to you two as your videos are hands-down the BEST tutorials regarding anything solar. Although I'm only in the planning stage of what it is I would like to build solar-wise, I will definitely purchase products via your links. Really enjoy the adventures you two share - keep the great videos comin'!!!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Here in Belgium ferrules are mandatory for all flexible wiring in permanent installations. But I use them with ALL stranded/flexible wiring, even low voltage applications.
Nice! Yeah, they are great.
A tool/device (ferrule) I had no idea existed, and I’ve been working way too hard to get large gauge (2-6) wire into connections. MANY THANKS!!
Glad I could help!
I have just found your series of videos and am REALLY enjoying them. They are punchy and informative.
Thank you.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Glad I came across your channel. You cover the topics so well and succinctly.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
I can’t believe how easy I thought this would be without watching your video! I completely thought I could just figure it out 😅
Hey, The Moab Pearl! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Discovered ferrules myself recently. Love them for all the same reasons outlined here…
Thanks for sharing dude
Would be nice to have a video series on all the common crimping and connector types including soldering covering when to use, when to avoid, and how to do it.
For sure! We are considering another 'back to basics' series for 2024.
Well done series, im binging the whole Playlist. I'm competent in wiring but I genuinely appreciate your videos as you've taught me a few things. Thanks!
Hey Red LeFevre, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Bootlace ferrules for the win! I would always use the insulated version, no need for heatshrink. Loving this series so far
I like insulated ferrules for connections that have built in strain relief immediately below. Adding heat shrink adds a bit of additional strain relief for 'hanging' connections.
@@EXPLORISTlife extra strain relief is always a good thing
Vibration can cause fine wire strands to break and ferrules prevent this. He probably goes into this on his blog, but a “square” crimper is best for ‘pockets’ that have flat contact surfaces. A “hex” crimp is best for pockets with a rounded surface, often seen on smaller wiring.
Thank you
Great video - you can use an insulated ferrule and eliminate the heat shrink step !
I like using insulated ferrules where the connection happens inside of an enclosure that has strain relief going into the enclosure. Where the ferrules are exposed, I like using heat shink w/ adhesive for added strain relief.
Thank you for being such a good teacher!
Thanks for the links in the blog post for the ferrules.
I didn't know this was a thing! I work with electrics a fair bit too.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!
Thank you for the video. Ferrules are great, yet expensive! I was looking at the wires into the terminals, and I didn't like how screw just punches into the wire threads. It looks unfinished, and ferrules is the solution, and I appreciate that you mentioned that in Europe, they require it, in order to pass.
I agree that it should be added to the USA NEC code
If (like me) you want to use high awg (0-8) ferrules in circular terminals, use the set screw ITSELF to crimp the ferrule and use heat shrink to keep the ferrule in place while setting the screw. Got that from a stereo channel.
As a last ditch effort, that's fine, but the wiring kits found in our store at shop.explorist.life and the components we design them for are designed so we have the proper tools for the job. We don't have any components that require a 2 AWG circular ferrule, so that guesswork is taken out of the equation for our customers.
Awesome video and great explanation
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Heys guys thanks for all the great informative videos. I’ve already upgraded some of my tools and work methods. Bring on some more. Dan - Oklahoma Tumbleweeds.
Thank you! Great video. Thanks for going right to the point.
All that I can say is a Big Thank You!👍👍
awesome info, subscribed and now watching all your videos. About to tackle a full wiring job on my camper. Many thanks!!
Exactly what I was looking for thanks!
Hey LongStraightLines, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
I started using ferrules. I like using them. Some devices such as charge controllers have a metal plate that compresses the incoming wire connection and the device has torque specifications. If you use ferrules what torque setting should you use? Do you need ferrules when using them on devices that compress the incoming wires? Is there a difference on how to use ferrules with large strands in the wire vs small but many small strands in the wire. Thank you for this video.
I recommend ferrules in all use cases unless there is a really specific reason to not use them. We have ferrules in their appropriate kits over in our store at shop.explorist.life.
If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help if you need some additional clarification/guidance: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Great video! A question though. Reading the Victron solar charge controller manual, they are very particular about calling out the need for fine stranded wire (even specifying the gauge of each strand) in order for the copper conductor to fully conform to the wire connection clamp, resulting in the highest contact area and lowest resistance. Doesn't using a ferrule in this case reduce the contact area and go against Victron's guidance? I'm very curious on this point. I definitely see where a square crimp would be better than a hexagonal crimp for maintaining surface contact but it still seems the bare strands would provide lower contact resistance? Thanks for your amazing work! I've just discovered it and it will be a great help in expanding the solar/inverter/charging system in my Airstream trailer.
Ferrules are incredibly flexible and just hold the wires together. Once the ferrule'd wire goes into the terminal and the terminal is tightened, it will shape the ferruled wire even further.
As far as 'victron's guidance' though, I wouldn't have known about ferrules if it hadn't been for being introduced to them by Victrons product engineers/developers I've been working with since 2019.
Thank you@@EXPLORISTlife! What an amazing ambassador for Victron you are! I can’t wait to get started!
it makes for a clean and safe job. If you're doing it for a living it will make you more money and more customers
Thank you for all your videos! I am working on a 2019 Sprinter 2500 144 WB crew. I should have bought your kits, but bought a few small Blue Sea components like their breaker box fuse box combo, and a Bestek 2000W inverter. Not sure what I am doing, so did not buy any lithium batteries. Just trying to prewire so need a very basic kit from you: 16awg for MAXX air fan and all connections and outlets you feel necessary for a very simply set up. Solar to be added later, for now I bought Wago 10awg connectors, but that is it. How can I email you and purchase appropriate supplies? Janice
Port Angeles, WA
Hey! You can simply add whatever you need to your cart at shop.explorist.life and checkout and we will get it on the way!
Great advice Nate!
Nate, is there an advantage to using uninsulated ferrules with heat shrink over the insulated ferrules with color coded nylon or pvc entrance?
where do i find larger ferrule crimping tool 2awg for my 100amp mppt, nobody seems help with larger tools or fittings
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
Nate, did you ever go over the process of just running, channeling, and poking wires thru the van. Is there a better way to get them to stick in places? Did you use split tubing to protect the wires? or any other ideas?
I know you have covered a lot and I am still in the process of learning and absorbing the info. But I don't believe I saw anything about running the wires thru the van and best practices to do that.
thanks for your time.
Would the tool in the video work for ring connectors or spade ones?
I am following the digram you have for the Renogy 3000W inverter charger. Is it still okay to use the Victron lynx distributor in this setup? or do I need the positive and negative bus bar? Thanks so much! Your videos are extremely helpful
Hi im an electrical apprentice and was wondering if you could use a normal crimping tool to do this?
It’s kind of overkill but when doing commercial work we would use an oxidation preventative. Dissimilar metals with electrical current going through them creates an oxide which is not very conductive. We would twist the copper wires put a very thin coating of ox-gard or like product and then crimp the aluminum ferrules. Like I said it’s probably overkill.
That would be pretty much a requirement when working with aluminum-to-copper. Copper-to-copper does not require it as most types of mechanical connections readily create a long-term-stable, relatively-gas-tight interface between copper conductors.
Hi Nate. Just found out your website/blogs. From what I read you’re definitely one of the best! Started my conversion And I have a question for you. some of my wiring from my solar panel are too long. Should I shorten it so it’s easier to zip tied the wires? The wires from panels are 1x2.5 mm (so 13Awg) but my extentions from roof to inside electrical are (8 AWG as per sizing). I kinda need 2 crimping tools (wire size difference) …. Or the metal crimpimg parts are similar size? Any suggestions thanks and keep the good work! I will be following you!
This is so helpful. Thank you!
Can you use Spade crimping tool to crimp Bootlace ferrules or C45 square inserts?
I'd, instead, recommend the tool shown in the video for crimping the ferrules as shown in the video.
Hi Nate, thanks for the helpful video, but how do you crimp larger wires, for example 2 Awg or 4/0 Awg please?
2AWG was shown in the blog post. Bigger than that just requires a bigger ferrule crimper. They exist, but ultimately, 2AWG is the biggest wire ferrule you'll need to crimp in a camper electrical system.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for getting back to me, thats great.
Currently converting my 2002 vw t4
Every wire has some sort of connector on it.
O,Hook & fork to hardware.
Where ferrules are used can i use in cable connecting in charge controller holes / terminals
Thanks Nate!
No problem. Happy to help!
I'd like to know the pros and Cons of using a wire ferrule at the vehicle battery with a "Crush" type battery terminal. Sticking raw wire in a port then tightening down an Allen head to crush the loose wire doesn't sound as neat and clean as using ferrule. Also, raw wire where the jacket ends is probably susceptible to moisture or condensation and that'll promote oxidation to the point where You may have to pull it out in a year or whatever and strip it back and re-clamp the fresh wire. So what's wrong with using a ferrule on a 2 AWG cable?
Thanks in advance for your reply.-Mike
I'm not sure how many more pros/cons I can provide above and beyond what I discussed in the video. It sounds like you have an idea, so maybe run with it and see how it works.
I have Victron controller's will a wire ferrule make it harder for the wire to come luse?
Ok, 6 AWG ferrules, but what is the length of the ferrule I should order for Victron 12/12/30 DC to DC charger? Thanks.
Can you use a wire ferrule crimper to crimp regular insulated wire connectors?
And Im sold!
I had thought about soldering the ends but the heat would melt the solder
Love this! Nothing I hate more than messy wiring situations. Wondering if there is a more economical way to crimp this ferrules - hoping to avoid buying 3 tools around $30-$40 each.
Glad it helped & thanks for watching! I don't have any recommendations for cheaper ferrule crimpers unfortunately.
You save my day...
As an American, I'm not used to using ferrules, and I'm wondering what things, as a DIY guy, that i might do day in and day out, that could benefit from ferrules. For instance, i don't expect to be doing much, if any, 110/120v electrical work, and if I'm doing anything currently, it's simple stuff like 5v/12v/24v LED strips(usually whatever i can get in an all in one kit from Menards or Home Depot), but I'm wondering how these could save me time in the future.
Now, don't get me wrong, i know how they help in the DIY (or professional) car audio industry, but that only 1 specialized use case, and I'm just trying to find some things that i might do at some point, that would be something i regularly do, that would work best with ferrules...
Yes, i know that if I have to ask, then it's probably something I will never need, but it is still something I would like to know, because currently I can think of only one project I currently have that might benefit from using ferrules, and even then, I would be using at most 8 of them, and obviously 8 isn't really a big enough number to justify having a ferrule crimper on hand for...
Have you done any comparison videos on the Victron battery and the Battleborn battery?
I have not. I have a running list of 43 companies who want me to review/compare their batteries to each other, but turning the channel into "Nates Battery Review Channel" is not something I can get excited about. The Victron batteries are great batteries, though. They do have an external BMS, so their setup and wiring is a bit more 'involved', but it's a good system nontheless.
Greetings Nate, Thanks for ALL the helpful vids! I've learned a lot. Since I have only a couple of wires to do, what's your thought on just tinning the wire? Thanks, Larry
I recommend ferrules over tinning.
The heat necessary to tin the wire can cause the insulation and wire to become brittle applications where it is subjected to vibration.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks! I'll go that route.
You should contact the seller about that. I don't have any control over their descriptions.
Hey Nate. Is a square crimp ferrule better than a hex crimp? I have heard hex crimps should be used in circle sockets as opposed to square sockets. The Solar panel disconnect you recommend has a circle socket but i noticed you use a square crimp ferrule. Thanks
The area these are really needed is when using things like DC mini circuit breakers.
I noticed there's nothing mentioned for larger sizes like 00. Are ferrules still useful at this size? I'm planning an install and I know already that the battery disconnect and the fuse holder are both made for direct wire insert, not lugs/rings.
I don't have any equipment that I recommend that requires a 2/0 ferrule. The largest ferrule in use in any of my diagrams at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams is 2 AWG. Anything larger (battery disconnects and fuse holders included) get lugs.
Hi, which standard we need to refer to check the pull strength of the ferrules?
There isn't one as far as I know.
Can I use these ferrules to cover the wire going into spring loaded connectors in my home amplifier?
Probably!
Nice! I wonder if you could use these without a crimper
Don't know. Never tried. Using the crimper is the proper way.
If you’re going to use them in a screw terminal AND you subsequently torque the screw terminal sufficiently, then it’ll be fine. But for spring terminals, the answer is an unequivocal NO, and for that application, where the ferrule crimper is responsible for ALL of the squeezing of the ferrule onto the wire, I wouldn’t even consider using a cheap ferrule crimper, I would only trust a high-quality one (name brand, so about $150 and up).
Are the ferrules steel or aluminum. I wouldn't think steel would be a good idea b/c of it's resistance (lower conductivity) which would make it heat up when in use.
Tin. Think of tin plating on copper wires for corrosion resistance.
They’re usually copper alloy or brass, and are frequently tin-plated. The ferrule can’t be made of solid tin, it’s much too soft.
Have you checked to make sure those are 100% tin plated copper? I’ve seen some reviews on that manufacturer about cheap quality.
They are not copper. They are tin. Like the plating on copper.
Sounds good I’ll order some and try them out thanks!!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
What size Ferrule is needed for a victron 100/30 charge controller
Better than that... consider checking out our full solar charging wiring kits that have everything needed to connect solar panels to the lynx distributor (inculding the appropriate ferrulles). Most of the smaller arrays w/ less than 440W have the 100/30: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Thanks mate! Didn't even know these existed lol
No problem. Happy to help!
How do you crimp 1/0 or 0 gauge ferrules? The standard crimp tools don’t crimp anything that large.
Can copper ferrules be used on aluminum wire?
Is the crimping tool the same kind of tool used for the smaller ferrules . I need to crimp 0awg ferrules for 0 awg gage wire and not sure about the crimper I need to look for ....
Each crimping tool is rated for a particular range of wire sizes. Here is one for 0 AWG: hausoftools.com/products/greenlee-k28gl-trapezoidal-crimper-fc7-1-0?variant=33001326673943¤cy=USD&
Bought a HSC9 16/4 (square) ferrule crimper. One 16mm2 AWG#6 wire pulled out of the ferrule. The first 10mm2 AWG#8 jammed the tool. I got the wire out, tool still jammed. Squeezed more, deformed the empty ferrule into a + shape. Watched another RUclips video, where they said, as you do, that it releases when fully closed, so pressed more, and it opened ok. Messaged the seller, who said there is a small lever, that clicks into place (first click) when crimping; in the slot on the moving handle, between the plier handles, that can be used to release it.
Great video. Having a hard time finding wire ferrule crimp tool for 4 guage.
This one works well: amzn.to/2UJ746v
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you for the reply
When you wire smaller wires together, in parallel, do you have a favorite way of joining three wires together? Would ferrells work there?
Will be covering that in an upcoming video but YES! Lever Nuts are a great solution for that: amzn.to/2yeJbw0
We have ferrules that are made to join two wires in one ferrule. It's very simple. Add the wire sizes, and then get the ferrule that is that size or one up. For me it is simpler because I am used to metric wire sizes and they add up nicely. A double ferrule often has a plastic sleeve that is not round but flat, to accomodate two wires instead of one.
I've never used ferrules but they look intriguing. Tinning the wire end with solder accomplishes the same thing and is what I tend to do.
That is not advised for mobile applications. The point where the wire gets hot from soldering can create a weak point when subjected to vibration can work-harden and break. Soldering like you talked about is fine for most stationary applications where vibration is not an issue, but ferrules are preferred for mobile/marine applications.
NEVER tin wire to put it into screw terminals. Solder will cold-flow under pressure and become loose with time.
2:06 Buy ferrules with collars instead. If you must heatshrink, which isn’t really necessary, don’t cover so much of the ferrule itself - you don’t want any chance of having heatshrink in the contact area of your terminal.
Dammit I got ferrules but now I need some other crimping tool. This cheap one that u use for crimping terminals doesn't seem to do it.
Where do you buy your tools?
I've got a list of the ferrule crimping tools listed on the blog post: www.explorist.life/how-to-crimp-a-ferrule
This and din rail components make my job like building Lego
How to remove the crimp ferrule?
Would it be a viable alternative just to solder the end of a cable to keep the strands together? 👍
Not so much. Heating wires from soldering can make the wires and the insulation brittle which is a bad deal when it comes to installing this stuff in a camper because of all of the vibrations when driving down the road. Plus, crimping a ferrule onto the end is so much faster, easier, and more approachable to somebody, who perhaps, has never soldered anything before. Soldering is MAYBE better than nothing, but IMO, it's not really comparable.
Tinning the ends of a cable like that is a bad idea because it makes the end very hard and doesn't allow the screw terminal to compress the end, which makes the connection very prone to becoming loose. Like trying to grab a hardened rod with pliers, you need some give to get a good grip.
I used to solder the ends (aka "tin" the ends). Ferrules work phenomenally better.
Where the solder meets the unsoldered part the wire is stiff then not stiff, so the not stiff frays and breaks. Even with a bit of heat shrink tubing.
A crimped ferrule has a more gradual transition to uncrimped wire which is easy to support with a bit of heat shrink.
When you clamp the soldered bit under a screw it squishes out ("plastic deformation") and the squish increases every time the wire gets hot and cold or vibrates, resulting in continually loose connections.
The compressed wire and ferrule clamps solidly and does not continue to deform.
Tinning the ends is easy to heat damage the insulation, making it stiff and/or brittle (an expert can usually avoid).
Crimping and heat shrink doesn't heat damage insulation (but you might if you use a flame to shrink the tubing!).
DO NOT tin with solder if you’re using screw terminals. Solder cold-flows under pressure and the connection can loosen with time, causing a fire hazard.
Could you do 1/0 cable like that
Sure! You just need to find a crimper that can handle that size.
So after putting the ferral on, the ferral is what's used to make the connection or do i leave enough wire out to wrap around the screw at the connection point?
The ferrule makes the connection, but ferrules aren't good options for connections where you need to 'wrap a wire around a screw'. You want to use a fork or ring terminal for something like that. Example: ruclips.net/video/en6Q2L6Bf3A/видео.html
Can you put multiple wires into one ferrule?
Code isn't particularly clear on that, so for that reason, I have to say 'no'.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the reply. I did find that there are twin ferrules.
Great! Glad you got it figured out!
Great videos. Thank you! Question - my local auto electric guy says I need a 12 Volt to 100 Watt converter in order to charge my solar batteries from my alternator. I purchased the battery isolator linked from your diagrams. It appears the Victron items you install have this charger included in their inverter? I discovered your videos after I purchased another brand. Can you possibly suggest a 12 volt to 100 watt converter?
If you are trying to charge from your alternator, you can use either an Isolator or a DC to DC Charger as shown in my diagrams at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams. There is no such thing as a "12 Volt to 100 Watt Converter" so there must have been some miscommunication there.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you
Would you suggest using ferrules when using things like ring terminals for a cleaner connection?
Fundamentally no, not recommended, because crimping more than once can cause them to fracture. But I would do it if I had to bulk up a thin wire to get it to crimp securely.
Nobody can tell me where to find a octagonal 4 gauge wire crimper like the one shown in this video. They seem to not exist.. problem is I don't want one that smashes them flat I want one that makes a nice round shape
Hex is the roundest that exists (well, for under about a thousand dollars…). This video shows a square crimp. Octagon crimp doesn’t exist.
Tops good 1 thank you
Your blog link doesn’t work. It says this page doesn’t seem to exist.
I got the same message
Oops! Copy/Paste fail. Should be good to go now: www.explorist.life/how-to-crimp-a-ferrule/
Where's the guy from the r/arduino?
Ok, so now I need a ferule crimper as well... Didn't think about that when I ordered a wiring kit for the upgraded motherboard for my 3d printer. Didn't even know what to call the damn things, I've been looking for something like this for years. Well, maybe not so much looking, but wishing I would stumble across them. Finally did though... Yeah, most things you can just use bare wire, but it's gonna be more durable as well as cleaner and no chance of a stray wire shorting out the circuit. So makes sense, of course they haven't caught on here... The land of illogical bullshit...
Is it good to Solder the Ferrules on?
Nope. Crimp them just as I showed in this video. Soldering creates weak spots in the wire where it goes from soldered to un-soldered.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for taking the time!
Not bad ⚡️
Thanks for sharing! Like #92
i remember at work one the wire was touching bc I didn't clean it. the wires touch and the motor started turning, gotta be the scary shit of my life .
Oof... Spooky.
Are they really necessary though? About as necessary as convincing everyone to buy victron. Just saying. I think your presentations are very good but the ferrules thing 🤔
Not necessary, no. Just good workmanship.
@@EXPLORISTlife agreed
I did not know about these. I was surprised to find that my Victron Charge Controller had the screw type connections for a 45 amp load and it made me nervous. I'll definitely use ferrules to improve the connection and reliability of the termination. It's a shame that I have to buy a freakin' crimper for four connections. Victron needs to change their design - it's a weak spot.
Glad I was able to teach ya something new!
Screw type terminals are pretty much industry standard for charge controllers. Victron, Outback, Morningstar, Midnite, Renogy, and many more all use screw type terminals for their charge controllers up to 100 amps. They are UL listed and totally safe.
Trust me when you get a crimper and some ferrules, every wire will look like it needs a ferrule on it, I just got one and a box of ferrules, never knew I need one until then and now I will not go without ferruling every wire end I come across.