Timely video - I'm visiting my parents for Christmas and was looking through my old Action Force figures yesterday including one of these and one of the original green commandos. They're now enjoyed by my nephews when they are visiting so another generation is having fun adventures with Action Force.
You're doing a great job with the hand lettering, especially as you're getting more practice at it. One option that might work in the future, could be to paint the letters as solid shapes, and then scrape off the straight black line through them afterwards, or add a thin black paint line, once the yellow has dried. May provide a cleaner stencil effect, and be less to worry about getting right all in one shot.
I don‘t know how much detail is on the stickers, but i think one way to go about putting them on the figures is first paint on a white patch where each sticker would go. Then place the stickers over the white patches and paint over the unwanted white edges with black. If you could get the white patches to be the same size as the letters on the stickers, then the black overpaint would not be so obvious, i think. Using a stencil to paint the white base for the stickers is also an idea, but i don‘t think it‘s possible to make a stencil that small.
Hi Toy Polloi! I can tell you how to make decals work on this if you're good with patience. However, you're painting looked quite good, but this is a method you can use on future toys. First print out two sets of decals. One in the Yellow that you want, and another in the lightest gray you can. Paint the arm black, and remember a clear coat will be applied to the finale. After it's dry, apply the light gray decals. Then after reading the directions thoroughly for times and details etc..apply MICRO-SOL. Or decal solvent. Whatever you do, do not touch it! It will bubble up and move around while it's disolving, but in the end, it's right where you put it on. This acts as primer. Then apply the yellow decals on top of them. Again use Microsol and let it set. Apply clear coat to arm and wallah! Take Care I watch you everyday. Cheers!
Another AMAZING restoration, Dave! I always love the old Action Force figures. While they lack the articulation of the GI Joes, the sculpts are just beautiful and the toys seem to come to life more in my mind. While your shoulder painting turned out pretty nicely all things considered, have you thought about making a stencil you can use to get a more precise application?
with the water transfer try painting the sas logo in white then use the water transfer then touch up with black... its tedious but the transfer will give you a sharp line and a smooth surface to do easy clean up
for the SAS, could you turn what you printed into a stencil? Use a sharp hobby knife to cut out the yellow, stick the clear bit to the arm, then paint over the lot and remove the clear once it's dried?
Definitely agree that the stencil idea has potential! I have seen Hot Wheels customizers use stencils to create certain paint details on small areas of die cast cars. The same process could be used on action figures. Excellent suggestion!👍
I agree with the stencil idea . . . but props to Dave for managing such a fine result free-hand! WAY above my skill level, for sure (I would *need* the stencil!)
Another awesome restoration the finished paint job looks well great. A s always a very informative show. Hope that you and Mrs. Toy Polloi have a very wonderful Christmas.
These look very cool, great restoration! I think your SAS paint job looks great! I wonder if you could paint the appropriate spot on the shoulder white and then put the sticker on top of it?
I did think that but came to the conclusion it would be very hard to paint the small area needed and get a sticker to match, and also stick to such an uneven surface. In the end the painted on version looked very similar to the originals and I will be doing this on some other AF figures I am currently working on.
@@toypolloiyes, the only thing I could think of is to paint a white box the same size as the decal and print the decal yellow with a black background. Not sure if it would look good. Might just look like a patch had been added to his uniform though.
Would doubling up the waterslide decals make the logos look brighter? 2 layers of the yellow might help with the opacity. Either way the painted ones look pretty good, as you said the painting on the originals wasn't always the most accurate anyway.
I have one of these figures. He came from a car boot sale, and, apart from being really dirty, is in great condition. I have armed him with a rare gun - a De Lisle Silenced Carbine, which is a beautiful replica, ordered from Firestar toys (#notspon) made for LEGO minifigures: totally out of scale with them, it's perfect for 3.75" figures. This guy is the only SAS figure I really liked.
Another fantastic restoration! Interesting use of the satin varnish to bring back the proper sheen. I need to try that on some of my projects. Once again, love these videos, your content is always incredible!👍
I know you've long mentioned some of your methods as you go, bits here and there over the years, but I would love you to do a video of nothing but general tips and tricks. Some of them might feel obvious (lighter fluid for sticker residue, peroxide for yellowing), but some of them feel like they must be the result of either passed-along wisdom or some FASCINATING trial and error (BRAKE FLUID to remove paint!?!?). I would love to see those stories all in one place! Maybe a Toy Polloi 2 vid?
Logo looks great! Figures turned out really well! Someone already beat me to the stencil idea. Could you use a Cricut to make one that small? Surely a laser could cut it, but I know you like to keep your fixes affordable. A lot of hobbyists, crafters and modders already have Cricut machines though. Maybe it would be worthwhile to have one cut by a 3rd party?
I actually think your painted logos look great. That's usually what I would do back when I made customs because of the non-white-printing issue. Or I would just print on regular paper and glue it on, but that doesn't work well on areas with wrinkles, crevices, etc.
Would it be possible to, for the logos, to make your own Tampo print by cutting foam rubber or sponge... like a fancy potato print kind of set up? You could use your printed labels as a guide.
I hate to be one of those "know-it-alls" but brake fluid is extremely corrosive and toxic. Please wear gloves when using it. I need to send you some all natural "Cirti-Solv" oil, it does a trick or two on paints and adhesives.
Timely video - I'm visiting my parents for Christmas and was looking through my old Action Force figures yesterday including one of these and one of the original green commandos. They're now enjoyed by my nephews when they are visiting so another generation is having fun adventures with Action Force.
Hey Dave. I like those guys. I especially like the great details.
Maybe, apply the decals anyway, and then paint over the decal, using it as a guide?
You could try and make mini armbands to replace the logos out of fabric with transfers
You're doing a great job with the hand lettering, especially as you're getting more practice at it. One option that might work in the future, could be to paint the letters as solid shapes, and then scrape off the straight black line through them afterwards, or add a thin black paint line, once the yellow has dried. May provide a cleaner stencil effect, and be less to worry about getting right all in one shot.
great figures and enjoyed your fixing up
These look great.
You do such great restoration work and the paint job on the shoulders looks really good.
Thanks for the video. :)
Thank you very much!
I don‘t know how much detail is on the stickers, but i think one way to go about putting them on the figures is first paint on a white patch where each sticker would go. Then place the stickers over the white patches and paint over the unwanted white edges with black. If you could get the white patches to be the same size as the letters on the stickers, then the black overpaint would not be so obvious, i think. Using a stencil to paint the white base for the stickers is also an idea, but i don‘t think it‘s possible to make a stencil that small.
Hi Toy Polloi! I can tell you how to make decals work on this if you're good with patience. However, you're painting looked quite good, but this is a method you can use on future toys.
First print out two sets of decals. One in the Yellow that you want, and another in the lightest gray you can.
Paint the arm black, and remember a clear coat will be applied to the finale.
After it's dry, apply the light gray decals. Then after reading the directions thoroughly for times and details etc..apply MICRO-SOL. Or decal solvent. Whatever you do, do not touch it! It will bubble up and move around while it's disolving, but in the end, it's right where you put it on.
This acts as primer.
Then apply the yellow decals on top of them.
Again use Microsol and let it set.
Apply clear coat to arm and wallah!
Take Care
I watch you everyday. Cheers!
Thanks for the info. I'll check it out.
Amazing. Love your channel.
Thanks 🙏
Another AMAZING restoration, Dave! I always love the old Action Force figures. While they lack the articulation of the GI Joes, the sculpts are just beautiful and the toys seem to come to life more in my mind. While your shoulder painting turned out pretty nicely all things considered, have you thought about making a stencil you can use to get a more precise application?
Make a stencil? Needle brush and magnifying glass?
They do make white decal paper which you can then print the outline of the SAS logo in black leaving the white decal paper.
They do indeed. But black is never black when you print, so it would still leave and obvious edge. But it's a good option.
My favorite toy line of all time & great for customs. Hope you get to do some more of the other figures etc
Awesome 👌 I love the action force a lot!
with the water transfer try painting the sas logo in white
then use the water transfer then touch up with black...
its tedious but the transfer will give you a sharp line
and a smooth surface to do easy clean up
for the SAS, could you turn what you printed into a stencil? Use a sharp hobby knife to cut out the yellow, stick the clear bit to the arm, then paint over the lot and remove the clear once it's dried?
Definitely agree that the stencil idea has potential! I have seen Hot Wheels customizers use stencils to create certain paint details on small areas of die cast cars. The same process could be used on action figures. Excellent suggestion!👍
I agree with the stencil idea . . . but props to Dave for managing such a fine result free-hand! WAY above my skill level, for sure (I would *need* the stencil!)
Toy polloi restoring Action Force? Instant like👍
Hey Dave
They look good🙂
Take care
Only thing that pops in my head for the SAS is a stamp of some sort.
Another awesome restoration the finished paint job looks well great. A s always a very informative show. Hope that you and Mrs. Toy Polloi have a very wonderful Christmas.
I need to get out my paints to touch up sas force not to mention my red shadows
These look very cool, great restoration! I think your SAS paint job looks great! I wonder if you could paint the appropriate spot on the shoulder white and then put the sticker on top of it?
I did think that but came to the conclusion it would be very hard to paint the small area needed and get a sticker to match, and also stick to such an uneven surface. In the end the painted on version looked very similar to the originals and I will be doing this on some other AF figures I am currently working on.
@@toypolloi ah, makes sense!
@@toypolloiyes, the only thing I could think of is to paint a white box the same size as the decal and print the decal yellow with a black background. Not sure if it would look good. Might just look like a patch had been added to his uniform though.
Don’t know that it would work but you might put the white paint under where the yellow letters go then lay the letters on top
Would doubling up the waterslide decals make the logos look brighter? 2 layers of the yellow might help with the opacity. Either way the painted ones look pretty good, as you said the painting on the originals wasn't always the most accurate anyway.
I don't think so. What you really need is a printer that prints white, but those cost $$$$
I have one of these figures. He came from a car boot sale, and, apart from being really dirty, is in great condition. I have armed him with a rare gun - a De Lisle Silenced Carbine, which is a beautiful replica, ordered from Firestar toys (#notspon) made for LEGO minifigures: totally out of scale with them, it's perfect for 3.75" figures.
This guy is the only SAS figure I really liked.
Another fantastic restoration! Interesting use of the satin varnish to bring back the proper sheen. I need to try that on some of my projects. Once again, love these videos, your content is always incredible!👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I know you've long mentioned some of your methods as you go, bits here and there over the years, but I would love you to do a video of nothing but general tips and tricks. Some of them might feel obvious (lighter fluid for sticker residue, peroxide for yellowing), but some of them feel like they must be the result of either passed-along wisdom or some FASCINATING trial and error (BRAKE FLUID to remove paint!?!?). I would love to see those stories all in one place! Maybe a Toy Polloi 2 vid?
I'll have a think. It would be a long video.
Logo looks great! Figures turned out really well!
Someone already beat me to the stencil idea. Could you use a Cricut to make one that small? Surely a laser could cut it, but I know you like to keep your fixes affordable. A lot of hobbyists, crafters and modders already have Cricut machines though. Maybe it would be worthwhile to have one cut by a 3rd party?
This figure was given away free with Eagle and Roy of the Rovers comics in the 80s. Possibly with Tiger.
I actually think your painted logos look great. That's usually what I would do back when I made customs because of the non-white-printing issue. Or I would just print on regular paper and glue it on, but that doesn't work well on areas with wrinkles, crevices, etc.
Would it be possible to, for the logos, to make your own Tampo print by cutting foam rubber or sponge... like a fancy potato print kind of set up? You could use your printed labels as a guide.
Perhaps a tiny stencil, tape, and an airbrush.
I wonder if you cut out a rubber stamp kind of thing. Then just dip it in the yellow paint and stamp it on?
Did you get chance to visit the recent Palitoy ACTION FORCE exhibition in Coalville, Leicester?
Happy Christmas Dave! Thanks for what you share
And to you to. Thanks for watching 🎄
Try dry rub transfers?
Brilliant as ever. Would an SAS shoulder stencil be too fiddly to achieve?
You would have to have very steady hands but it could be possible.
Do you know anyone with a cricut ? You could use vinyl for some labels .
Action force has figures of real forces? I want to know more
I hate to be one of those "know-it-alls" but brake fluid is extremely corrosive and toxic. Please wear gloves when using it. I need to send you some all natural "Cirti-Solv" oil, it does a trick or two on paints and adhesives.
04:50 "If I gently start rubbing this, you can see immediatly it starts to come off."
hurr hurr.
Yeah I'll see my self out.