I just love your knowledge about the old tazan movies And the creature from the black lagoon o and I do love ebikes as well that's wot got me here in the first place but yes I loved this vlog 👍🏾🍾
Hi, Do not expect heat immediately. Stator gives away only through air gap to rotor. You could be already burned your motor and still touch rotor. Give at least 5 min before measuring. Ferrofluid helps to carry heat from stator to rotor a lot faster. This heat transfer is what is limiting hub motors.
That's a good point I will check it after a longer ride, but in the real world you are going to stop for stoplights and things like that so I do not think heat is going to be an issue, now if you went on the freeway and held it at 65- 70 mph the whole time then I can see a meltdown,!
@@samjohnson517 It depends. If You go from light to light with heavy acceleration (for example 15 times) the worse is when motor is in stop. There is no air circulation when it is stopped. I do not thing speed is problem. It is hills and acceleration - hard regen braking. Current going through winding creating heat. It is the biggest problem with hub motor. That it can'not throw out heat fast. It is accumulating in stator with every acceleration or hill climb. When you are already in speed current settles and rotor is moving creating some air movement inside which transfers heat from stator to rotor with covers. So that is way it takes quite some time for rotor to reach stator temperature.
Ferro fluid (especially the good ones, like Statorade) helps a lot. In my experience though, intensive start-stop and high torque situations like mountain trails don't punish the motor (which has a lot of airflow on its surface) nearly as much as the controller, which is trapped in that case with no air circulation. I bridged it to the frame with aluminium slabs and put some air vents on it to sooth the mosfets a bit. Still not ideal, but much better. Also I still have some spare room in that frame as my battery is not as big as Sam's, and the hot air disperses on the frame.
Thank you for this nice ride, by the way if your 5000 Watts motor manages to do between 50/55 miles an hour, what will it be with mine which is 8000 Watts and also wound in 3.5 T and in addition I have a 21 inch rim, so even more done for the speed, I have 2 friends who have the same as me but who bought it all mounted, except the fork and they can go up to at least 120 km / h depending on how the parameters are modified. Merci pour cette belle promenade, au fait si ton moteur de 5000 Watts arrive à faire entre 50/55 miles à l'heure, qu'est ce ça va être avec le mien qui fait 8000 Watts et bobiné aussi en 3,5 T et en plus j'ai une jante de 21 pouces, donc encore plus fait pour la vitesse, j'ai 2 copains qui ont le même que moi mais qui l'ont acheté tout monté, sauf la fourche et ils peuvent monter à au moins 120 km/h suivant comment on modifie les paramètres.
These swing arms can take a lot of torque. Configure your controller to use progressive regen (I use a separate left thumb throttle for that), and let the motor do 70% of the braking. Apart from good mechanical brakes, of course.
Better off with a whole front end off a Yamaha yz80, forks,yokes, wheel,caliper,disc & master cylinder. Or some some old marzocchi super-t's or 888's, (oil bath & coil spring - bombproof) DNM's are garbage straight to landfill forks.
That is not a bad idea but realistically I don't think this frame and the rest of the components can take that kind of a beating anyway. I think the dnm's would be an upgrade over the zooms. You sure did bring back memories for me thoug,h YZ 80 was one of my first motorcycles!
Fortunately, I used a DNM Volcano 8 fork and a DNM shock absorber but I knew that the ZOOM brand forks were zero, with very little adjustment, only the hardness, which is not enough to do all terrain, they are only beautiful but not effective ... Heureusement que j'ai mis une fourche DNM Volcano 8 et un amortisseur DNM mais je savais que les fourches de la marque ZOOM étaient nulles, avec très peu de réglage, seulement la dureté, ce qui ne suffit pas pour faire du tout terrain, elles sont belles seulement mais pas efficaces...
Pedals are neccesary because of the law. Here in NY you must have pedals if not then is not street legal. Then u need plate and all of that. Is stupid but do research and you will see what im saying
hi dude, i follow all yours videos, but i have the question..u drive this whit driving licence? or not... here in deutchland your bike, when do not have a drive licence is illegal..
Hello and thank you for watching! Here in the US in particular California, the bike is considered a class 3 electric bicycle and does not require a license or insurance. However you do need to be 16 or older and wear a helmet.
@@samjohnson517 We would need a A1 (small Motocycle) license or car license with some additional motocycle lessons , insurance, license plate and vehicle registration.
That is actually kind of a tough question because the opening is not square and then once you get past the opening there's more room but to give you an example my battery is 14" long 5.5" wide and 7" tall and I barely got it in there with the controller. If you watch my other videos about the build and Battery build it'll give you a better idea
Hi i love to watch your video I have some question you install controller inside of frame If there is a controller in the frame, I think it is very dangerous because the heat generated by the controller can cause the battery to overheat. What temperature does the inside the frame rise after riding for a long time?
Hello and thank you for watching, I had the very same concerns about putting the controller in the frame with the battery, but to my surprise it's been working great I do not have any heat issues. The battery stays between 30 -35c and no shutdown issues with the controller.
@@samjohnson517 ( manualzz.com/doc/6826420/sabvoton-sine-wave-motor-controller-specification ) you can see the sabvoton controller spec This chart says if controller get over 80°C(176°F) =current limit 100°C(212°F)=stop but Electronics get damaged very easily over 60(140°F) to 70(158°F) degrees. not like motor Could you measure the temperature of the controller if you do high-speed riding next time? I am very curious.
@@lilillililililiilililililillil I was trying to see if I could use the mcqon app but it looks like it only reads temperature in programming mode so I will try to get the heat gun in there somehow, most builds here on RUclips have the controller inside with the battery with no issues but it will be good to know.
I just love your knowledge about the old tazan movies And the creature from the black lagoon o and I do love ebikes as well that's wot got me here in the first place but yes I loved this vlog 👍🏾🍾
🚨 *Appreciate the details & Effort*
It’s very helpful
Dude your videos are awesome what an inspiration!!
Hi, Do not expect heat immediately. Stator gives away only through air gap to rotor. You could be already burned your motor and still touch rotor. Give at least 5 min before measuring. Ferrofluid helps to carry heat from stator to rotor a lot faster. This heat transfer is what is limiting hub motors.
That's a good point I will check it after a longer ride, but in the real world you are going to stop for stoplights and things like that so I do not think heat is going to be an issue, now if you went on the freeway and held it at 65- 70 mph the whole time then I can see a meltdown,!
@@samjohnson517 It depends. If You go from light to light with heavy acceleration (for example 15 times) the worse is when motor is in stop. There is no air circulation when it is stopped. I do not thing speed is problem. It is hills and acceleration - hard regen braking. Current going through winding creating heat. It is the biggest problem with hub motor. That it can'not throw out heat fast. It is accumulating in stator with every acceleration or hill climb. When you are already in speed current settles and rotor is moving creating some air movement inside which transfers heat from stator to rotor with covers. So that is way it takes quite some time for rotor to reach stator temperature.
Ferro fluid (especially the good ones, like Statorade) helps a lot. In my experience though, intensive start-stop and high torque situations like mountain trails don't punish the motor (which has a lot of airflow on its surface) nearly as much as the controller, which is trapped in that case with no air circulation. I bridged it to the frame with aluminium slabs and put some air vents on it to sooth the mosfets a bit. Still not ideal, but much better. Also I still have some spare room in that frame as my battery is not as big as Sam's, and the hot air disperses on the frame.
thankfully wire enamel is pretty smelly so our motor was spared
That's a cool place to ride 💯👍👍😃
The heat gun is a good idea, I have one too ...
C'est une bonne idée le pistolet thermique, j'en ai un aussi...
Very nice site where you ride ...
Très beau site là où tu roules...
Thank you for this nice ride, by the way if your 5000 Watts motor manages to do between 50/55 miles an hour, what will it be with mine which is 8000 Watts and also wound in 3.5 T and in addition I have a 21 inch rim, so even more done for the speed, I have 2 friends who have the same as me but who bought it all mounted, except the fork and they can go up to at least 120 km / h depending on how the parameters are modified.
Merci pour cette belle promenade, au fait si ton moteur de 5000 Watts arrive à faire entre 50/55 miles à l'heure, qu'est ce ça va être avec le mien qui fait 8000 Watts et bobiné aussi en 3,5 T et en plus j'ai une jante de 21 pouces, donc encore plus fait pour la vitesse, j'ai 2 copains qui ont le même que moi mais qui l'ont acheté tout monté, sauf la fourche et ils peuvent monter à au moins 120 km/h suivant comment on modifie les paramètres.
Nice vid. I'm waiting on a 5k watt, 3.5t motor on this enduro frame. I like that the motor doesn't easily overheat. What brakes would you upgrade to?
hello thank you! I like the magura mt5e for front and rear
@@samjohnson517 I like the Maguras too, that's the first upgrade I'm going to make
These swing arms can take a lot of torque. Configure your controller to use progressive regen (I use a separate left thumb throttle for that), and let the motor do 70% of the braking. Apart from good mechanical brakes, of course.
Better off with a whole front end off a Yamaha yz80, forks,yokes, wheel,caliper,disc & master cylinder. Or some some old marzocchi super-t's or 888's, (oil bath & coil spring - bombproof) DNM's are garbage straight to landfill forks.
That is not a bad idea but realistically I don't think this frame and the rest of the components can take that kind of a beating anyway. I think the dnm's would be an upgrade over the zooms.
You sure did bring back memories for me thoug,h YZ 80 was one of my first motorcycles!
Fortunately, I used a DNM Volcano 8 fork and a DNM shock absorber but I knew that the ZOOM brand forks were zero, with very little adjustment, only the hardness, which is not enough to do all terrain, they are only beautiful but not effective ...
Heureusement que j'ai mis une fourche DNM Volcano 8 et un amortisseur DNM mais je savais que les fourches de la marque ZOOM étaient nulles, avec très peu de réglage, seulement la dureté, ce qui ne suffit pas pour faire du tout terrain, elles sont belles seulement mais pas efficaces...
If the motor has so much of power and speed, what's the use of pedals there ?
Good point LOL I guess if you run out of battery at least you will not have to push it!
@@samjohnson517 back-up manual power 😀
Pedals are neccesary because of the law. Here in NY you must have pedals if not then is not street legal. Then u need plate and all of that. Is stupid but do research and you will see what im saying
@@FrankelysHernandez now I understand
What tires are you liking?
hi dude, i follow all yours videos, but i have the question..u drive this whit driving licence? or not... here in deutchland your bike, when do not have a drive licence is illegal..
Hello and thank you for watching! Here in the US in particular California, the bike is considered a class 3 electric bicycle and does not require a license or insurance. However you do need to be 16 or older and wear a helmet.
@@samjohnson517 We would need a A1 (small Motocycle) license or car license with some additional motocycle lessons , insurance, license plate and vehicle registration.
Hij ive got a question about the bike so you know the place where the battery goes how big is that space
Thanks
That is actually kind of a tough question because the opening is not square and then once you get past the opening there's more room but to give you an example my battery is 14" long 5.5" wide and 7" tall and I barely got it in there with the controller. If you watch my other videos about the build and Battery build it'll give you a better idea
ruclips.net/video/lgOZQGRH3H4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/-3nH49Q8rKU/видео.html
@@samjohnson517 alright thank you
Hi i love to watch your video
I have some question you install controller inside of frame
If there is a controller in the frame, I think it is very dangerous
because the heat generated by the controller can cause the battery to overheat.
What temperature does the inside the frame rise after riding for a long time?
Hello and thank you for watching,
I had the very same concerns about putting the controller in the frame with the battery, but to my surprise it's been working great I do not have any heat issues. The battery stays between 30 -35c and no shutdown issues with the controller.
@@samjohnson517
( manualzz.com/doc/6826420/sabvoton-sine-wave-motor-controller-specification )
you can see the sabvoton controller spec
This chart says if controller get over 80°C(176°F) =current limit 100°C(212°F)=stop
but Electronics get damaged very easily over 60(140°F) to 70(158°F) degrees.
not like motor
Could you measure the temperature of the controller if you do high-speed riding next time?
I am very curious.
@@lilillililililiilililililillil I was trying to see if I could use the mcqon app but it looks like it only reads temperature in programming mode so I will try to get the heat gun in there somehow, most builds here on RUclips have the controller inside with the battery with no issues but it will be good to know.
First