Removing the valve stem seals from a Land Rover head in situ. Can it be done?
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- / britrest
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Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com
![The MOST important service in a 2JZ [Valve Stem Seals]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RwWeAf9IV14/mqdefault.jpg)
i sent you some money mike , a "thankyou" would be nice ?
I am sorry - must have missed it - was it by paypal?
it was indeed and a significant amount !
That was the 1 penny?
If so I thank you from the bottom of my heart and I hope I am forgiven for not responding so swiftly =BTW cost me 5p to process yesterday
Hi Mike, yes this does work on the series engines and the seals that I had then were rubber, they just pushed down over the guide But if you had new valve guides And new valves and new seals they worked OK
What I meant to say was that the rubber seals worked well and they can be installed in suit
Thanks Mike, I completed my 300tdi valve stem oil seals today . Top advise..
Excellent!
On a 2.25d.....the piston top is very near the valves TDC....so its doable....I made a tool to change the seals head in place for my 2.25d.....worked a treat....not as easy as yours mate....think I still Have it.
Dont have a 2.25d any more...fitted a 200di....dont miss the old 2.25 one little bit.....saying that I did 200.000mls with it....full rebuild at 100k....goosed again an the next 100k.....bore max size.
Thanks for the info
Thanks a lot you’ve saved me from torching my defender. Just done new rings, valve seals etc nd it’s running out but on oil. Was wondering if it’s valve stem seals thanks soooo much!!
Great video Mike, These are tricks that no one showed you until you were coming out of your time. They called them-- THE HIDDEN MYSTERIES OF NATURE AND SCIENCE. --- Many thanks, Yorkshire Rob.
Your right there Rob!
Just think what we could do, if we came out of our time with the knowledge we know now!
Thanks Rob!
Mike
Ive used a laser tools valve remover kit that bolts to the head little bit expensive kit but works very well
I've not done Land Rover but I've done k series rover, used a long bar, a piece of rope and an old tube spanner with a window cut in the side, put rope loop around exhaust or inlet manifold, put end of bar into loop, tube spanner on valve cap and then put the bar on the back of the tube spanner and lean on the end whilst taking collets out with needle nose pliers, used my compression tester with the little valve removed to pressurise the cylinder at TDC, did all 16 valves. Didn't people used to push cord or string through the spark/glow plug hole to hold the valves up? Where there's a bodge there's a way!
I know of the knotted rope trick, but by the time you have done that you could have pulled the head off!
The diesel do not have a hole big enough to get rope in which is why I use compressed air
Great idea and tool . If you do the measurements that would be great, I have a friend that needs his 200tdi done.
You will have to send me an email and then I can get back to you
britrest@britrest.com
Yes, it would work on the Series III diesel (10J) and the pre-Tdi 2.5 diesels (12J and 19J) as their valves would sit on the piston crown, but 2.25 and 2.5 petrols have head voids that mean the valves can't sit on the pistons. If you have great compression that will hold the valve up with compressed air, then it'd work, but the valve could drop. Still, the worst that can happen is you need to lift the head, and I think the stemns are long enough that they'd stay in the guides if the valve dropped with the piston at TDC anyway.
Which is why I said it is better to pull the head on series - every one I did needed guides anyway - and a new rocker shaft and bushes
I'm not disagreeing with you, Mike, just affirming that it will work on pre-Tdi diesels.
Well..... I have one of the tools you showed early in this vid. It works on some engines, but I couldn't make it work on my 300. That thing you made is cool. Trouble is, how does it go in a 300 Disco? There is no room to do anything on the number four pot. You need to put the head bolts in using a rubber band or something when installing the head, as the heater/air plenum is right in the way. Not a problem if the engine is out of course.
Yes, the tool works great if the valves are standing proud of the head and not enclosed like the 200/300 Tdi
I agree the Disco isn't well thought out for head removal and replacement and tightening the head is difficult
Please please purchase a Fj60 or preferably a Fj62 series Landcruiser and get to working on it. I’m quite aware that you wouldn’t have as many videos to put out, but I’d watch them as much as I do your Landy videos. Just having some fun folks. Seriously though...👍
Lets put this to bed once and for all - we cannot get proper Landcruiser in Canada - there were some pre 2000 but when I looked on the Auto trader website there were only 24 for sale in Canada and most of them were rust buckets
The new Landcruiser is branded as a Lexus and prices start at $84,000
No Hilux either
Hi mike my 300tdi makes a chuffing noise when above 20mph could it be the valve seals ?
Could be the exhaust manifold or intake leak
Good video really good tall could I have the measurements please😁👍
What's with td5 ?
Hi Mike, I'm constantly working on the old tdi's over here in Australia, i enjoy your vids, has given me a few tips, keep it up! If you could shed some light on 300tdi power inconsistencies that would be great. 200's always seem to go well after they've had a bit of care (t/belt, filters, etc) but i often come across recalcitrant 300's that insist on remaining sluggish, is there a gremlin area on these donks that defeats best intended care, i.e. cam timing, injector nozzles, compression? I always whip out the d.t.i. on timing the f.i.p. and aim for 1.54 to 1.60, never had to go these lengths on the 200's as they always seem to have decent power. As i said, not all 300s but enough to give me the shits with them now. 25 years tooling around with these and still scratching my head on some! Sean
I always say there are never 2 Rover engines the same - I have had 2.5 NA's that went like Tdi's and others that would not pull your hat off
I don't get may 200's in nowadays, mostly 300's, but I have similar problems and I am thinking of experimenting with electric fuel lift pumps as they are always going wrong and can lead to other issues - drawing in air, low pressure etc
I heard they were designed for a 5mm spacer between pump and block and there is a guy on eBay UK selling them
food for thought
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations you might have a point there. Lift pumps fail far more frequently on 300s compared to older 2.5 na and 200, also always rotating fuel pin/cone thingy on 300s to get them going a bit better and screwing down the rest position. (Incrementally of course!) But fuel delivery pressure to fip might be the devil. I'll try measure pressure on a known good 300 and compare to a slug. Thanks for quick reply. Sean.
I think it should be 4 Psi at 1500/2000 rpm - there is bugger all at idle - I think I did a video on this - check on my channel home page and search 'fuel'
I was going to fit a pump at the back of the vehicle with an anti drain back valve - depends on the pump - some are push pumps others pull pumps
this is what I was looking at
www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hly-12-426/overview/
@@BritannicaRestorations and bosch ve pump as used on L series diesel freelander doesn't use any pump prior to injecror pump, according to bosch info on these ve pumps, low pressure feed pumps are only required on vehicles with long distance fuel lines and/or low level tanks to assist the fip ability to draw fuel. Maybe 5psi electric pump just after the sedimentor would prove more positive than the lift pump and allow bypassing the lift pump, would make for quick priming too. I think LR fitted these lift pumps coz borderline bosch requirements plus 4x4 angles of operation??
I have no experience with Freelander diesels they were all petrol here
I would be tempted to by pass the lift pump but keep it in place and join the 2 pipes together with a bit of diesel in them - just in caseI know the VE in the VW golf didn't have a lift pump but were a bugger to primeI think 4 psi is enough as the VE has a restrictor in the return
Interesting experiment as I have used all sorts of lift pumps and all are as bad as each otherMike
where did you get the pipe ,to put the compressed air in the engine from.
I had made an adaptor to fasten to my compression tester - I just linked a pipe to that
Mike
my 300tdi ,,when moving off after its been stood on ticking over, leaves some blueish smoke ,would this be the seals ?
Sounds like valve seals to me - but could be worn guides too
Mike