I used to go to the old Rover engine factory at Woodcock Lane in Acocks Green, Birmingham in the 1980s and have seen many a Rover Group crankshaft and bottom end assembly. My late Dad was a designer and used to get me in as a lad of about 15-18 to see the production. Also went to East Works at Longbridge and saw them assembling K series enfines there in about 2000-2002. The crankshafts were supplied by Darcast of Smethick.
Thanks for all these, I am just about to start working on a 1991 200Tdi 110 SW (Requiring New Chassis so complete strip down), basically have to learn as I go, always wanted to do one, but never really had the time or place until now, your video have been a great help to date.
I love your videos Chris mate I'm trying to keep my landy and my brothers one going over in Kenya lots of work , hard to get parts sum times or very expensive, but if I get problems with the car I all ways look at your videos keep up the good work
Hello, do you know what is the height of the piston on the block when you make a new engine? in a 2.25 Diesel serie 3. I work with a old Land Rover mechanic, 60 years work in the LR company here in Uruguay. And he told me that when you make a rebuild a engine the pistons dont have height over block, and the valves must be flush with the valve cover, so you assemble the engines like this? Many thanks Javier.
In reality one should measure the crankshaft for ovality and taper first then measure the clearance between the shells and journals with "crush plastigauges" with new shells.
I have a rover V8 in my Chimaera and am stripping it down. I cannot find the tolerance number in the Haynes manual for the gap between the conrod and the crank web. Would you know what it is for a 4.6 V8? It has a cross bolted crank. Thanks.
+arebrec No idea. You will need to look at the correct Workshop manual for the rover v8 that the engine originally was built for. Haynes sucks. Brookland publications are much better for pure technical details.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos No bother. It's all apart now and the crank, block and one of the heads are at a machine shop getting measured and honed/polished. Thanks for the quick reply LRTV.
Hi Chris. Can I ask if you have any tips to remove gudgeon pin bushes from the con rod at home? Ive tride heating it and using plus gas but only removed 1 so far.
Hi Chris, cheers for the advice. I found a chap who restores classic vehicles, by chance, who had the correct press! Could I also ask you, Chris, about series Landy conrod bolts? I've looked at the standard nuts for sale (suitable for 2.25 series engines) but they look like standard high tensile nuts with no locking mechanism are these okay to use? I've included a link: www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-defender/defender-90-and-110/parts/engine/etc5155-nut-for-con-rod-bolt-2-25pet-and-diesiel-2-5-pet-2-5d-na2-5td-and-2-litre-diesel.html P.s. Could I also ask how you would stagger the piston rings before I put them in place E.g. 20 degrees per gap? Thanks for your help and advice, Chris, both directly and indirectly in videos!
What's the cause of the engine locking up on when tightening the big end bearings? We have torqued it to 59nm as per the Haynes, but as soon as we tighten a second, you physically cannot turn over the turn to get at the third set of bolts
have you changed the shell bearings? If so do you have the correct ones and not an oversize set? Also did you measure your crank journals? ruclips.net/video/be6M3pwjuos/видео.html
Land Rover Toolbox Videos using the existing bearings, they were in perfect condition, on reflection my free engine didn't need a complete restoration, everything was perfect inside but hey ho I'm here now. I've done nothing to the crank just purely took pistons out to re ring them and that is it
Hey, I've been looking to diagnose my 2.25 petrol (emissions tune) engine, I'm having problems with pre-detonation, I'm using high octane fuel with a lead additive to try to counteract this however it still isn't proving to work... The head has been adapted to run unleaded, however I'm not sure that this is the problem, perhaps adding two gaskets to the head would lower the compression ratio and hopefully prevent pinging?
Hi I am from GEORGI I have 1998 1.8 freelander my cylinder head fails second time then I took of head I sow cylinder liner go in to the block a little I now I must replace engine its deformed but I can not I already bought new cylinder head can you tale me if I can use old crankshaft and pistons in to new block new block already have liners and if I must replace big and bearings can I replace in new ones in same cod which have old big and bearings I have no bore tool no micrometer and its my 1 time to build engine and I can not choose right colors of big and bearings pleas help me
Any build on a vehicle will require measuring components. You cannot just throw in pistons from another engine and hope they will fit. As for shell bearings from the crank you are fitting to another block you might get away with fitting them because they are bedded in to the crank however without knowing your tolerances you are asking for trouble.
From rude to insulting...need I say more ? Most certified auto technicians, engine re-builders are familiar with the terms of importance which include clearances, specs, tolerances, squareness, angles, pitch, special tools and a manual.
I used to go to the old Rover engine factory at Woodcock Lane in Acocks Green, Birmingham in the 1980s and have seen many a Rover Group crankshaft and bottom end assembly. My late Dad was a designer and used to get me in as a lad of about 15-18 to see the production. Also went to East Works at Longbridge and saw them assembling K series enfines there in about 2000-2002. The crankshafts were supplied by Darcast of Smethick.
Just saw this. Excellent. I'm about to rebuild my V8 and I'm sure I will be revisiting!
Thanks for all these, I am just about to start working on a 1991 200Tdi 110 SW (Requiring New Chassis so complete strip down), basically have to learn as I go, always wanted to do one, but never really had the time or place until now, your video have been a great help to date.
great thank you. We haven't covered everything yet unfortunately but i hope the one we have on here are of help.
I love your videos Chris mate I'm trying to keep my landy and my brothers one going over in Kenya lots of work , hard to get parts sum times or very expensive, but if I get problems with the car I all ways look at your videos keep up the good work
Spot on... stuff all petrol (and diesel) heads should know :)
Do you recommend replacing the con bolts and nuts? About to do my S2A 2.25.
Thanks for this, great video and well presented.
Nice to see some other Norfolk boys on here too!
I am rebuilding m’y Cimaera engine: your vidéo is excellent, pls , carry on 👍👍
Cheers from a Yank in Suffolk!
lovely jubley can the nuts on the conrod be reused again or are they torqued to yield?
Great resource. Thanks.
How many lock labiel piston
when i was assembling i used rubber hose to cover the con rods studs just as precaution
+TheEdudo good idea. plastic tubing is just as good!
Hello, do you know what is the height of the piston on the block when you make a new engine? in a 2.25 Diesel serie 3.
I work with a old Land Rover mechanic, 60 years work in the LR company here in Uruguay. And he told me that when you make a rebuild a engine the pistons dont have height over block, and the valves must be flush with the valve cover, so you assemble the engines like this?
Many thanks
Javier.
reading the engine overhaul manual, they do mention that big end shells must always be changed.--
So should the nuts for the con rods.
In reality one should measure the crankshaft for ovality and taper first then measure the clearance between the shells and journals with "crush plastigauges" with new shells.
What is the torque specs
I have a rover V8 in my Chimaera and am stripping it down. I cannot find the tolerance number in the Haynes manual for the gap between the conrod and the crank web. Would you know what it is for a 4.6 V8? It has a cross bolted crank. Thanks.
+arebrec No idea. You will need to look at the correct Workshop manual for the rover v8 that the engine originally was built for. Haynes sucks. Brookland publications are much better for pure technical details.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos No bother. It's all apart now and the crank, block and one of the heads are at a machine shop getting measured and honed/polished. Thanks for the quick reply LRTV.
Engineers usually have a mass of data at hand. Have you asked them?
Hi Chris. Can I ask if you have any tips to remove gudgeon pin bushes from the con rod at home? Ive tride heating it and using plus gas but only removed 1 so far.
you really need a press. If you don't have one usually a nearby garage will have and I am sure they would help. (?)
Thanks, Chris. I had an inkling this would be the case. I'll get looking, cheers.
Hi Chris, cheers for the advice. I found a chap who restores classic vehicles, by chance, who had the correct press!
Could I also ask you, Chris, about series Landy conrod bolts? I've looked at the standard nuts for sale (suitable for 2.25 series engines) but they look like standard high tensile nuts with no locking mechanism are these okay to use?
I've included a link:
www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-defender/defender-90-and-110/parts/engine/etc5155-nut-for-con-rod-bolt-2-25pet-and-diesiel-2-5-pet-2-5d-na2-5td-and-2-litre-diesel.html
P.s. Could I also ask how you would stagger the piston rings before I put them in place E.g. 20 degrees per gap?
Thanks for your help and advice, Chris, both directly and indirectly in videos!
What's the cause of the engine locking up on when tightening the big end bearings? We have torqued it to 59nm as per the Haynes, but as soon as we tighten a second, you physically cannot turn over the turn to get at the third set of bolts
have you changed the shell bearings? If so do you have the correct ones and not an oversize set? Also did you measure your crank journals? ruclips.net/video/be6M3pwjuos/видео.html
Land Rover Toolbox Videos using the existing bearings, they were in perfect condition, on reflection my free engine didn't need a complete restoration, everything was perfect inside but hey ho I'm here now.
I've done nothing to the crank just purely took pistons out to re ring them and that is it
are they seated correctly?
same pistons in the same cylinders?
Where about are you based? I have a 200tdi with low oil pressure. The pump has been replaced so it's something nasty like the cam bearing shell.
+kelvinchill low pressure could be a loose or cracked suction pick up pipe.
Thank you
I have the land rover discovery 3 2.7L and 3.0L tdv6 Engine crankshafts. We are factory, also i have in stock.
I am Sujoy Nag
The George Telegraph Training Institute
DURGAPUR
Nice video
Excellent vid. Thanks!
Hey, I've been looking to diagnose my 2.25 petrol (emissions tune) engine, I'm having problems with pre-detonation, I'm using high octane fuel with a lead additive to try to counteract this however it still isn't proving to work... The head has been adapted to run unleaded, however I'm not sure that this is the problem, perhaps adding two gaskets to the head would lower the compression ratio and hopefully prevent pinging?
Thank you I will buy bore tool and micrometer and new pistons and rings
Okay they are cheaper than they have ever been so good luck with that!
Debashish majumder, george telegraph ,center- durgapur
I'm in Caister on Sea.
Hi I am from GEORGI I have 1998 1.8 freelander my cylinder head fails second time then I took of head I sow cylinder liner go in to the block a little I now I must replace engine its deformed but I can not I already bought new cylinder head can you tale me if I can use old crankshaft and pistons in to new block new block already have liners and if I must replace big and bearings can I replace in new ones in same cod which have old big and bearings I have no bore tool no micrometer and its my 1 time to build engine and I can not choose right colors of big and bearings pleas help me
Any build on a vehicle will require measuring components. You cannot just throw in pistons from another engine and hope they will fit. As for shell bearings from the crank you are fitting to another block you might get away with fitting them because they are bedded in to the crank however without knowing your tolerances you are asking for trouble.
@7:35 Dam...I feel threatened, if the con rod has any gap, then it is U.S. you want to get rid of it !? He should have uttered, "useless" not as rude.
Yes because it means the cap is distorted. Last thing you'd want is to have it drop off.
i thought the same but i think he means utter shite.
do you know what plastigauges are? Use them
Agreed !
From rude to insulting...need I say more ?
Most certified auto technicians, engine re-builders are familiar with the terms of importance which include clearances, specs, tolerances, squareness, angles, pitch, special tools and a manual.
that so good