SPECIAL NOTE - (New Info) : If you want to see a fast option to dig post holes, real quick, also check out this other video we made as well : I think you'll find it REAL helpful : PROMISE ! ruclips.net/video/m0L_3PZeMvE/видео.htmlsi=itProUaTC3exbI8o Greenworks 2000 PSI 1.2 GPM Pressure Washer (Open Frame GPW2003) GPW2003 amzn.to/4fNI4np
This is the only RUclips video I found that taught me what I needed to know to set a post straight. I looked at 10 of those before I found this one. Thank you so much for doing a excellent RUclips video
I spent 15 minutes on the phone with a guy from Home Depot trying to figure out how to put the cement in at the bottom of my fence post, and he had no idea. THX FOR THE ANSWER!! I’m a girl putting in a fence by myself.👱🏻♀️
Hey Anne, Glad you found us - that’s why we post all our videos -300+ - to help people learn with us or from us! Hope your project goes great! Good for you for making the effort - projects can be tough, but once complete, everyday you get to appreciate the work you put in! Thx fir watching!
If you mean having concrete under the post, you don't want that; the concrete will create a cup that holds water, exposing the bottom of the post to rot. You want gravel under the post, like he did in the video, then only have concrete on the sides/around the post. I'm sure your project is long finished; just adding this for anyone else wondering.
We're fencing our garden and started with 4x4 treated posts set in Quikrete "Fast Setting Concrete." We found our posts weak after nearly 3 days of curing. We dug one post up and the junks of Quikrete could easily be broken with our fingers. We redid the work with posts simply set 3 to 4 foot deep with no Quikrete and now the posts are rock solid strong.
You have to use 1 gallon of water per 50 Lbs bag. Not putting the proper amount of water will result in failure. Doing it correctly will result in strong curing.
Myself, I prefer bracing the post, so I don't have to be checking and adjusting every time I pour concrete or dirt down the hole. It only take a few minutes and ensure that the post stay plum while the concrete cures.
Your checking it for plumb, not level. Plumb is vertical, level is horizontal 😜😉 i think I will fast set crete my posts, hope it holds up. Never used fast setting in post holes
Well my fence fell down in the last storm so, I will be digging a few post holes and setting a few of these. I am going to put an asphalt emulsion ($15 a gallon) on the end of the post that goes into the ground. I will add about 6 inches of large gravel to the bottom then the post. I am thinking about staining or putting a water seal on the part from the emulsion upward. Another idea was to add a cap to the top of the post. When it rains this cap would help keep rain from seeping in the top. Comments welcome. I need all the help that I can get.
Hi Baron. Seems better to mix with water in a basin first and shovel in the concrete. My fence was whipped together by a contractor for KB homes and some of the posts that failed just had powder inside. It wasn't mixed together. How did your fence hold up?
Hey Chris, The fence is straight as a arrow but it has not been that long. There were instructions on the bag that said if your hole was over (30?) inches deep, then pour half the hole in and add water, then the 2nd half of the hole and add water again. It’s also possible that the previous guy did not use the special “ just add water “ concrete. What we used was a specific blend meant just for this type application. Lastly, could be you live in a very dry area, w/o sufficient ground moisture. If you buy the right bag mix, you should be fine. It’s your choice though. Thx for watching!
That's what I did, mixed it thick and shoveled in and tamped it down and put a little dry crete under the post in hole with a in or 2 of stone and little dry on top.. 1st post (for a kiwi trellis) only made it 18'' deep but it will be supported on top.. Shame I couldn't get any black locust posts, that wood lasts forever even with no crete, had to settle for ground contact pressure treated I guess pine.
This is the lazy way to do a post with concrete (by yourself). It also will not insure that the concrete sets properly, as some areas will remain powder. It doesn't take really that much more time to do it properly: And you will need TWO PEOPLE to do it right. One person holding the post with the level to maintain its level (get the plastic 'mail box post' levels from Home Depot, that you can attach with a rubber band). Then with that person holding the post, the other should bring up the wheel barrow, added in the dry concrete mix, then from a garden hose, add in water slowly as you use the shovel to mix around the concrete slurry until it's the proper consistency (and fully mixed). It will take a bunch of scraping and moving around, and adding water. Don't add too much water, btw. You will notice as you mix the concrete with the shovel, it will break up some of the powdery areas. When you are ready, used the shovel to shovel in the concrete and use a long 2x2 or 2x4 wooden stick, about 4-5 foot in length, to tamp down the concrete as you're shoveling it in. Tamp it down on all four sides. Check the level to make sure it's on the mark. Then, when it's set, you can pretty much just continue adding in the concrete to the top. At the top, angle the sides of the concrete so that it angles away and down, like a hill, and smooth it out with a more wetter slurry of concrete. This is done so when it rains, the water will pour away from the wooden post. (Some folks also get two 5 foot 1x2s and screw in one end to the post and the other onto the grass, putting a stake in at the end, from two 45 degrees, to hold the post safely while it cures in a day. Then remove. Use screws [and a power tool] for this instead of nails. The screws will not interfere with the set post. If you hammer in the nails, it will void the work you just did).
Wider hole (3 times post width) and tamp the dry concrete after each bag. For best results layer with 1/2 bag then tamp, add 1/2 water and repeat til 3 to 6 inches from ground level.
Nice work! Practical approach. Would suggest one gallon water bucket if that is true need. I'll do mine tomorrow. I think the contractors just use a garden hose and wing it! Of course it's just a fence not the Sistine Chapel.
Hey Westvalley, You are absolutely right. A hose would work if you are familiar enough with the consistency of the concrete you are trying to achieve. Great points. Thx for watching!
Yea, I've done it both ways. Seems not to matter much, but I do put a few cups to a quart of water in before pouring in cement to make sure the bottom is not dry. At the end of the day, moisture will get all the cement mix wet and harden it. Even if you wait til it rains....
I used a pressure washer yesterday. I have made a lot of fences and it blew my mind. It penetrates to the bottom and mixes the concrete in quick order. First time for everything.
If I may exercise my Obsessive Compulsive Disorder here re posts being "Level": "Level" refers to something that is perfectly flat or horizontal. A perfectly upright post is "Plumb"
You can see your posts are all different heights. You need either a top string or marks on the base of the posts for depth into the ground.But thanks for posting the video.
Hey G I opted to not spend time trying to precisely measure the holes as I went. It was faster to trim the tops after the boards were installed. Then everything looked perfect. Thx for watching!
I used a tube form (8" diameter) and about 2' depth. However when I pour the water, it didnt get absorbed. I didnt pour too much water either. Im just concerned that if it doesnt percolate down, then the bottom concrete will not solidfy
Hey Mirza, 1st - did you buy the right concrete - the ‘ just add water kind ‘ because there are different types. 2nd - I know that type of concrete is also designed to pull water from the soil. So I’m not sure how the tube would effect that. Might be worth a call to the concrete maker customer service if possible. Thx for watching!
in the video, everything is done correctly. It helps if you have a rod of some sort and poke down and around the post. This will ensure that it reaches the very bottom.
Why not add a couple of temporary struts to hold the post upright? I banged a couple of "anchors" into the ground using timber offcuts, then screwed or clamp a strut between the anchor and the main post. Do this again through 90 degrees, then adjust the struts so that the main post in truly vertical. Then you can pour in all the Postcrete in one go.
@@ShyRage1 I didn't. I fixed the struts with F-clamps. The struts are only needed until the Postcrete sets, about 20 minutes. I used a spirit level to ensure the post was properly positioned.
in my experience (built about 1000 feet of 4 board fence recently) using struts or bracing on posts of this size is not necessary. As Chris mentions in a post above, by the time you pour in dry mix the post is not going to move very much unless it gets hit real hard. You still have enough wiggle room to make small adjustments to level, but once you add water, in a few minutes the post isnt going to move from then on. My process is (1) dig 33-36" hole with 1-man gas auger (2) rake away excess dirt (3) tamp down bottom of hole with the post (4) add small layer of gravel if desired (5) stand post in the hole and get it positioned where it is perpendicular to the ground as it touches the string; (6) hold the post still in that spot and pour in 1 bag of the red concrete mix (shown in video, bought from Lowe's); (7) wiggle the post a little bit so that concrete settles around it 360 degrees; (8) check level and adjust accordingly. at this point you can let go of the post and the dry mix will pretty much hold it in place. (9) pour in some water and jab with a thin stick or rebar to mix in the hole and release air pockets, you have just a couple minutes from this point until the concrete sets; (10) wiggle the post a little and push back to level. After this first bag, the post is pretty much not going to move. (11) Add another bag of concrete and water, jab with stick, let dry. next hole. if i slice open the side of the concrete mix bag and lay it beside the hole, I can do all of the above myself. I hold the post in place with one hand and dump the concrete bag in the hole with the other. Probably 15 minutes altogether including digging the hole
Hey scuttling…, 38 posts holes were dug in one day and it probably took a day or maybe a little more to set them. The whole fence took a week. Thx for watching!
You mentioned to keep concrete around the posts BELOW the ground level - then build up with 'dirt' and create a 'slope' away from the posts to prevent water from going down into the post area. But I didn't see your actual finished area you described. Based on your how-to explanation, once rain hits, the 'dirt' mound around the posts would seem to just level out around the post and water would just soak down to the level of concrete and around the exposed 3-4" of post. Why not put concrete slightly ABOVE the ground level - then trowel out to create the proper descending grade so rain runs AWAY from the posts. OR - did I misunderstand how you finish the top area of the post hole? Thanks in advance for a reply.
Use some thin rod and poke down into the cement powder. Releases air pockets. Ensures water soaks into all the concrete mix. You could also set additional stones at the bottom of the post (not under) to prevent shifting.
This is great advice. When installing wood posts, what's the best way to prevent the concrete around the base from rising? I heard things like a bell-shaped bottom and large deck screws screwed into the ground while in the hole. Are these ideal methods? I would love to hear everyone's input and suggestions. Many thanks
Hey Ed, I thought it would be easier to not worry about height while installing as they would all be too tall and would eventually need to be trimmed later. You can do it either way - just preference. Thx for watching!
I've been watching a few videos for mixing fast-setting concrete. I find it interesting how almost all the videos mention the importance of wearing a mask when working around concrete dust, but none of the people in the videos are wearing mask. Lead by example please. Other than that, great advice in the video!
Hey Dan, Those are boots for pouring concrete slabs. It was pretty muddy in that yard so I used those - just hose off and you are good! Thx for watching!
Hey Joshua, Because the holes are 30 inches deep, there is so much material around the posts that they are pretty solid. You can tap on the poles to move them incrementally before adding water - but I think you’d be surprised how solid they are locked in by mix alone. It never hurts to double check the plumb of the posts after adding water, but I never saw any movement. Thx for the comment and for watching!
What diameter hole did you drill? Another video on the Quikrete says it should be 3x the post size, so a 4x4 would be a 12” diameter. Yours look smaller. I’m asking because if I can get away with a smaller hole than I will as long as it works.
Hey Mike, I used an 8 inch auger. I first planned to use a 10 inch but the rental place only had 8 & 12. My perspective : 1) I like to follow the source of information. quikrete is in the business of selling quikrete. 12 inches is about 3x the concrete as 8 inches ( volume of a circle less the post ). I could not make sense of why that amount of concrete would reasonably be needed. Telephone poles are only stuck in a deep hole - no concrete at all. 2) we have dense clay soil so I didn’t imagine much movement once in the ground. 3) I did a lot of research and found all kinds of ways to sink posts as well as how much concrete to use. 8 inches seemed both reasonable and a middle choice. 4) I had to dig the holes on my own. The one-man auger with an 8 inch auger was SERIOUS WORK. I can’t imagine what the 12 inch would have been for a lone digger!! 5) I occasionally manually widened a hole in order to get all the posts to line up perfectly. Operator error I guess - w/ that auger!😃 So there you go. Hope that helps! Enjoy the journey! Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons All states have code requirements for fences, there is a national code for them as well. Most of the information can be found in your zoning code which is local to each area. The size of the hole is determined by the wind load rating of your local zoning. Both depth and width are requirements of local zoning code.
@TheLawDemon same for me, we don't even get building permits doing decks and additions where I'm at.. If you screw up well its your problem type of thinking.
Hey Most…, Actually I think that is what to concrete bag recommends. But you will use a LOT more concrete ( do that math - volume of the hole less the volume of the post ). We were going to do a 10 inch hole, but the rental company only had an 8 inch drill. So far so good - no complaints & fence looks great. Your call. Have fun - it’s a great workout😃 Thx for watching!
They told me that I need to put bituthene on the posts before I install them with cement is this true because a lot of people that just put the cement without waterproofing the posts
Ive learned the hard way over the years.. Good advice here but mind if I ad a comment, you want the post to last as long as possible, so when I install any wooden post..I choose my height, and dig down just 2 more inches, pull the post back out, put in 2 inches of mix, then put the post back in so now it's actually sitting on the mix and not on bare soil otherwise it'll start decaying straight away..then bring the mix to the top, just over the level of the ground surface and with a trowel slope the mix away from the post, so the whole post is incased from sitting in moisture and it will last much much longer..if that makes sense.
The water has no place to escape when you have concrete on all sides. the wood shrinks over time and the capillary action of the wood and water will draw water down into that concrete encasement rotting it from the bottom up.
Wood can't decay at the bottom of the hole as there is no Oxygen down there.........a common misconception. You see all these youtubers adding gravel to the bottom of the hole etc etc, not realisong that it does nothing. Posts always rot at ground level not at the base.
Hey Darrell, If I remember right it was closer to 1.5. It all depends on how deep and how wide the hole is. Do the math and you might be shocked to see how much extra volume is created by a hole that is an extra 2 inches wider. So choose the auger size wisely. Concrete manufacturer says something like 3x the post size to get the diameter of the hole. Obviously we did not do that .. or I’d still be digging! Have fun! Thx for watching.
If the directions specify to pour in the bag and then add water why would that way not work ? Why would the concrete be dry at the bottom ? Doesnt the manufacturer know how this mix works ?
My fence installer put my posts in with concrete but when it dried, there are now a motes around the posts that collect water. I want to mound up more concrete so the water will shed away from the posts but I don't know how to get the new concrete (or cement if I can use hydraulic cement) to stick to the old concrete. Any ideas on how to do this would be appreciated. Thanks for all the great videos!
Little late,. but use a mortar mix instead of concrete. Type N would be better but Type S would be fine as most of the big box stores carry Type S. Make sure the existing concrete is clean and damp. Mortar is made to be sticky and exactly what you need here.
Hey Adela, It depends on where you live. You need to get down below the frost line - below where the ground can freeze. That will stop the ground from forcing the post up over time. Just guessing but Texas might be 24 inches and Michigan might be 36 inches . Best to call local building department… they can give you a number. Thx for watching!
Im trying to build a 12×12 (7 post) with a roof top for my horse.. i been habing hell trying to learn how to get my posts straight!! ... any more advice anyone?
Hey Handy, I cut the tops of the posts off after hanging the horizontal boards. I just made sure I had at least 5 feet above ground. With 30 inch holes and 8 ft posts, that left me more than 5 ft for each post. Then if a hole is a little deeper than 30 inches, it’s no worries. Thx for watching!
The bottom of your post is surrouded by air. Pulling it sideways to move the bottom. Okay with normal REAL concrete not with this dry guff. Also you never prodded the mix at all. Its wet about 1 foot down if your lucky. Never touch the stringline with the post. Unless you want a curve in your fence. Keep the posts a smidgen away from the string line.
There’s a video here on RUclips about pouring the Quikrete dry into the hole, then adding water. After it was dried up, they pulled the post from the ground and showed the results. The water actually makes it’s way all the way down.
When installing wood posts, what's the best way to prevent the concrete around the base from rising? I heard things like a bell-shaped bottom and large deck screws screwed into the ground while in the hole. Are these ideal methods? I would love to hear everyone's input and suggestions. Many thanks
@@ShyRage1 tp avoid the concrete from rising you dig below frost line where I'm at that's around 3 feet. To prevent water pooling and rotting the base of the post a strip of somo tube at the rope with a runoff into the grass you'll be good my guy. These guys always just pour the big and leave the top however it is. Water ends up sitting there over the year the whole fence topples over. I'm a cibcrete worker now but have many years exp building decks and fences. 90% of fence I used to have to re plant posts for or redo the complete fence was done incorrectly. Those fences could have last 20 years but instead tipped over in 10c
Hey Ben, Those are concrete boots. Great for wading in concrete - they are just a rubber shell - hose off and go. I was wearing them because the yard pretty muddy - deep mud in places. Thx for watching.
Are you telling me that your whole bucket of water got in the hole? It seems like it would take forever to absorb. Plus, why do you add concrete mix after and directly into the water. The ratio would not be right.
Hey Allen, The directions in our bag said to add water after adding concrete unless you hole was more than 30 inches deep. Then you would fill half the hole, add water, then fill second half of the hole and add more water. Note: this is a special kind of concrete mix that you can add to the hole dry and add water after. Most types of concrete have to be mixed w/ water first. Be sure to buy the right kind. The back of the bag should explain the process. Thx for watching
@@Housebarons i wasn't wrong 30-32 inch deep. I have auger my dad was saying deep more. I am like naaaah man i am not in the shore or oil search. Yup it takes about 1-1/2 bag but did use a 6 inch bore. Going to buy the 8 inch it gives more play compare the 6in tight space. Will go more concrete chances are 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 per post. Good thing using an auger leaves the concrete cylinder in the way will be easy to slide it up in the future repairs. Compare old style will anchor so much in the soil to the point have to dig all around.
Concrete is not the best way to set a wooden post. Anytime you set a post you need to seal the wood to protect it from rot up to the mark of how deep it's buried. I use Redgard (2 coats) and be sure to do the bottom of the post. You can also use blackjack roofing sealer. I pack the post with 5/8 random aggregate and pack it in plumb up to 1 ft below ground level. Start with at least 4" of aggregate in the hole before you place the post in the hole. Cap it with concrete. You can use 8" cardboard tube for a form or you can build your own with scrap fence materials. I like to taper the slope away from the post with a 1/8 to 1/4" slope. The post hole for a 4x4 post should be at least 3 times the width of the material. My posts will outlast anything out there with just concrete
Hey Dig…, We followed the bag directions. This concrete will also wick moisture from the ground ( which was pretty wet) which the manufactures planned on. Thx for watching!
Hey Johnsn10, We buried a 2’ section of treated 4x4 about 15 years ago with total ground contact as a trampoline anchor. Trampoline is long gone, but the post is still there. Personally, I’m not worried about the potential exposed bottom of a post otherwise covered in concrete. Thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
What he did was useless, the top 5 or 6 inches of that quickcrete will set and the rest underneath will stay dust. What he should of done is put in about a fifth of a bag ,wet that let set for about ten minutes ,then fill the hole about 3/4 full with water and then pour the rest of the bag in around the post while tamping or mixing with a strick or off cut.
That water didn't penetrate all the way down, there wasn't enough water to begin with. Dig up anyone of those posts to check there is no way they're set properly
Here's how you check without digging up the post, get a long masonry drill bit one that will reach the bottom of the dust. If its dust under the top layer you'll have little resistance n you go all the way to the bottom , you then get a hose n shoot water down that drill hole n do that several times around that post. If I'm wrong and you've got resistance all the way then fill the hole back in n enjoy the peace of mind.
Wrong...on wood fence posts the concrete should never be below ground level. Rather, concrete should slightly above ground in a mound shape so that water can shed off and away from the wood post. If concrete is below ground level the moisture/wet soil will slowly cause the wood post to rot where it encases the concrete.
@@harryl8234 yaya. It depends on geography/climate too. It doesn't matter if the concrete is under the soil as the water still contacts the entire concrete no matter what. The reason why people leave 4" or so at the top is so that the concrete is covered by a layer of soild that is all connected as one. So, as the temp. drops, the top soil freezes before the bottome. The theory is thus that in doing so, the frozen top soil helps to prevent freeze heaving. Do whatever you want. If you take a clear box, fill it with dirt, then dig a post hole, put a minature post hole in there, concrete it up to and over the top soil and make your artistic mound. Then, once the concrete is hardened, take your hose and start spraying away. See what happens. Does the concrete get wet?
@@RobHTech the point is if the post is constantly surrounded with wet soil the post will rot sooner. Your analogy about the wet concrete is not exactly correct. The concrete if artistically shape correctly will shed water away from the post. Not saying the post won't rot, but it will be less susceptible to rot.
@@harryl8234 i agree with that. If talking about wood posts, then sure, it probably helps by slowing down the stream of water. Kind of how windows have a lip on the outside top and sometimes bottom: as the water slides down the house to the window, the water hits the lip which projects it off and away from the window. But for chain link, not sure it really matters. In any case, they all have a life expectancy.
Hey Brandon, Not a bad way to go if you have the money and know a pro you can trust. Otherwise DIY Is 80 % education and 20% practice/ experience. Thx for watching!
In all my years as a timber fence builder you makes these videos so backwards.and it makes me laugh. Tell me this. If you are digging your holes 600mill deep by 200mill wide. You put your post in the hole poor dry concrete in it and add water. So my question is .by the video I just saw. How does the water get to the bottom of the hole with all that dry concrete filled to the top of the hole. If your concrete is not totally wet and only 100 to 200mill of water you put in.its doesn't secure the post to the hole . Not very smart.
Hey Barry, This seems to be a common misconception. You may want to check with the quikrete company. We were just following their directions. They actually make a concrete for this purpose. Thx for watching!
@@biggerthebetter and any craftsman worth their salt knows to use the right tools for the right job. As he said already, the concrete mix is designed to be used without the need for pre-mixing and is intended for lighter applications like fence posts. Quikrete’s fast-set mix also has the same strength rating as their general use mix at 4000psi. Sure, pre-mixing is more reliable but it is also far more time consuming and labor intensive. You wouldn’t use it for foundation work but again, right tools for the right job. Unless this guy’s fence is getting hit by a tornado or stampeded by a herd of cattle I doubt these posts are going anywhere for a while. Not sure what you’re so caught up on.
@@self2self9 Intended for light applications. Do you have any idea how much weight there is on a fence post when building a timber fence. Rails and palings. If the post is not secure into the ground from top to bottom of concrete or cement and not dry but totally wet and mixed well.then any storm will blow it over. So use your tools and your common-sense.
@@biggerthebetter LightER applications. A fence is far lighter than most other projects that concrete is intended and required to be used for. I understand your concern and I was skeptical when first using it but after multiple experiences with it it’s a lot more reliable that you may think. Two points I’d like to make on the mix being dry: 1. The concrete is designed so that the water is able to thoroughly wet the entire mix and avoid the very scenario you’re talking about. Spending just a couple minutes stirring/poking it with a piece of rebar or something ensures that even further. 2. Have you ever seen what happens to a bag of concrete that’s been left in a garage or shop for too long? It’ll harden like a rock from just the moisture in the air around it. Dirt and soil contains much more water in it than air so on the off chance the bottom stays dry during the pour there’s plenty of water in the ground for the mix to absorb and set in a relatively short amount of time. Again, I understand your concern, but if that fence was planned and built properly then I am fairly certain a storm wouldn’t come close to knocking it over. It may damage parts of the fence but so would a baseball bat. It would take some extreme weather conditions to rip those posts out. If the guy does live in an area where such events do take place then there are far more precautions to take but this doesn’t appear to be the case.
SPECIAL NOTE - (New Info) : If you want to see a fast option to dig post holes, real quick, also check out this other video we made as well : I think you'll find it REAL helpful : PROMISE !
ruclips.net/video/m0L_3PZeMvE/видео.htmlsi=itProUaTC3exbI8o
Greenworks 2000 PSI 1.2 GPM Pressure Washer (Open Frame GPW2003) GPW2003
amzn.to/4fNI4np
This is the only RUclips video I found that taught me what I needed to know to set a post straight. I looked at 10 of those before I found this one. Thank you so much for doing a excellent RUclips video
Hey Gary,
Thx for taking the time to let us know - very kind! And thx for watching!
I spent 15 minutes on the phone with a guy from Home Depot trying to figure out how to put the cement in at the bottom of my fence post, and he had no idea. THX FOR THE ANSWER!! I’m a girl putting in a fence by myself.👱🏻♀️
Hey Anne,
Glad you found us - that’s why we post all our videos -300+ - to help people learn with us or from us! Hope your project goes great! Good for you for making the effort - projects can be tough, but once complete, everyday you get to appreciate the work you put in!
Thx fir watching!
If you mean having concrete under the post, you don't want that; the concrete will create a cup that holds water, exposing the bottom of the post to rot. You want gravel under the post, like he did in the video, then only have concrete on the sides/around the post. I'm sure your project is long finished; just adding this for anyone else wondering.
You should definitely pre mix concrete in a pale or wheelbarrow before putting it in your hole. Adding water after won’t mix your concrete right….
We're fencing our garden and started with 4x4 treated posts set in Quikrete "Fast Setting Concrete." We found our posts weak after nearly 3 days of curing. We dug one post up and the junks of Quikrete could easily be broken with our fingers. We redid the work with posts simply set 3 to 4 foot deep with no Quikrete and now the posts are rock solid strong.
Did you do it dry like the video or did you pour it in wet?
You have to use 1 gallon of water per 50 Lbs bag. Not putting the proper amount of water will result in failure. Doing it correctly will result in strong curing.
The comments here were extremely helpful. Saved this to watch later so I can come back and refer to things.
Hey RC,
Thx for watching!
Myself, I prefer bracing the post, so I don't have to be checking and adjusting every time I pour concrete or dirt down the hole. It only take a few minutes and ensure that the post stay plum while the concrete cures.
For water just use a pressure washer. I did that yesterday. Worked great.
Great tip! Thx for watching!
Your checking it for plumb, not level. Plumb is vertical, level is horizontal 😜😉 i think I will fast set crete my posts, hope it holds up. Never used fast setting in post holes
Hey Aaron. Thanks for the clarification. I misspoke. I would not worry about the fast-crete. Should work fine.
Thx for watching.
Well my fence fell down in the last storm so, I will be digging a few post holes and setting a few of these. I am going to put an asphalt emulsion ($15 a gallon) on the end of the post that goes into the ground. I will add about 6 inches of large gravel to the bottom then the post. I am thinking about staining or putting a water seal on the part from the emulsion upward. Another idea was to add a cap to the top of the post. When it rains this cap would help keep rain from seeping in the top. Comments welcome. I need all the help that I can get.
All great ideas. Use pressure-treated lumber, of course.
Hi Baron. Seems better to mix with water in a basin first and shovel in the concrete. My fence was whipped together by a contractor for KB homes and some of the posts that failed just had powder inside. It wasn't mixed together. How did your fence hold up?
Hey Chris,
The fence is straight as a arrow but it has not been that long. There were instructions on the bag that said if your hole was over (30?) inches deep, then pour half the hole in and add water, then the 2nd half of the hole and add water again.
It’s also possible that the previous guy did not use the special “ just add water “ concrete. What we used was a specific blend meant just for this type application.
Lastly, could be you live in a very dry area, w/o sufficient ground moisture.
If you buy the right bag mix, you should be fine. It’s your choice though.
Thx for watching!
That's what I did, mixed it thick and shoveled in and tamped it down and put a little dry crete under the post in hole with a in or 2 of stone and little dry on top.. 1st post (for a kiwi trellis) only made it 18'' deep but it will be supported on top.. Shame I couldn't get any black locust posts, that wood lasts forever even with no crete, had to settle for ground contact pressure treated I guess pine.
Its fine the way he did it but grab a stick or pole and poke around would have been ideal
This is the lazy way to do a post with concrete (by yourself). It also will not insure that the concrete sets properly, as some areas will remain powder. It doesn't take really that much more time to do it properly: And you will need TWO PEOPLE to do it right. One person holding the post with the level to maintain its level (get the plastic 'mail box post' levels from Home Depot, that you can attach with a rubber band). Then with that person holding the post, the other should bring up the wheel barrow, added in the dry concrete mix, then from a garden hose, add in water slowly as you use the shovel to mix around the concrete slurry until it's the proper consistency (and fully mixed). It will take a bunch of scraping and moving around, and adding water. Don't add too much water, btw. You will notice as you mix the concrete with the shovel, it will break up some of the powdery areas. When you are ready, used the shovel to shovel in the concrete and use a long 2x2 or 2x4 wooden stick, about 4-5 foot in length, to tamp down the concrete as you're shoveling it in. Tamp it down on all four sides. Check the level to make sure it's on the mark. Then, when it's set, you can pretty much just continue adding in the concrete to the top. At the top, angle the sides of the concrete so that it angles away and down, like a hill, and smooth it out with a more wetter slurry of concrete. This is done so when it rains, the water will pour away from the wooden post. (Some folks also get two 5 foot 1x2s and screw in one end to the post and the other onto the grass, putting a stake in at the end, from two 45 degrees, to hold the post safely while it cures in a day. Then remove. Use screws [and a power tool] for this instead of nails. The screws will not interfere with the set post. If you hammer in the nails, it will void the work you just did).
Wider hole (3 times post width) and tamp the dry concrete after each bag. For best results layer with 1/2 bag then tamp, add 1/2 water and repeat til 3 to 6 inches from ground level.
Excellent teacher.
Hey egs…,
Many thanks. And thx for watching!
Nice work! Practical approach. Would suggest one gallon water bucket if that is true need. I'll do mine tomorrow. I think the contractors just use a garden hose and wing it! Of course it's just a fence not the Sistine Chapel.
Hey Westvalley,
You are absolutely right. A hose would work if you are familiar enough with the consistency of the concrete you are trying to achieve. Great points. Thx for watching!
You won’t feel that way when it falls over in a strong wind. Do it right and always mix your concrete and shovel it in wet.
Yea, I've done it both ways. Seems not to matter much, but I do put a few cups to a quart of water in before pouring in cement to make sure the bottom is not dry. At the end of the day, moisture will get all the cement mix wet and harden it. Even if you wait til it rains....
I used a pressure washer yesterday. I have made a lot of fences and it blew my mind. It penetrates to the bottom and mixes the concrete in quick order. First time for everything.
If I may exercise my Obsessive Compulsive Disorder here re posts being "Level": "Level" refers to something that is perfectly flat or horizontal. A perfectly upright post is "Plumb"
Hey xx….,
You are correct. Thx for watching!
Good video mate.
Hey Ion…,
Thanks 👍 for watching - Cheers!
I'm not a fence expert..but may be a bag of concrete and add water.
When I put posts in I like them to vertical no good having them level, I fit diagonal supports to hold the posts while adding the mix.
Hey John,
Thx for the input and for watching!
Add wood stakes to secure level
You can see your posts are all different heights. You need either a top string or marks on the base of the posts for depth into the ground.But thanks for posting the video.
Hey G
I opted to not spend time trying to precisely measure the holes as I went. It was faster to trim the tops after the boards were installed. Then everything looked perfect.
Thx for watching!
I used a tube form (8" diameter) and about 2' depth. However when I pour the water, it didnt get absorbed. I didnt pour too much water either. Im just concerned that if it doesnt percolate down, then the bottom concrete will not solidfy
Hey Mirza,
1st - did you buy the right concrete - the ‘ just add water kind ‘ because there are different types.
2nd - I know that type of concrete is also designed to pull water from the soil. So I’m not sure how the tube would effect that. Might be worth a call to the concrete maker customer service if possible.
Thx for watching!
in the video, everything is done correctly. It helps if you have a rod of some sort and poke down and around the post. This will ensure that it reaches the very bottom.
@@ShyRage1 I did all that but it just failed to reach the bottom of the tube.
@@bawwf011 that's weird. I wonder if more water was needed
Thanks for this! Very clear and instructional.
Thanx for sharing. Just the information I needed.
Hey browill9,
Glad it helped. Thx for watching!
You could nail the post level with steaks so you don't have to continuously check the level while pouring the cement
Hey Pale,
Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Should I use Rib-Eye? Or New York Strip?
cement should be about 3 in below ground level so you can cover with dirt after your done so it don't look like crap
Hey Terry,
Thx again!
Great instructional video!
Thx!!
Thanks very helpful.
Hey Machiavellian,
Glad to hear it. Thx for watching !
Thank you Sir. Well done. Subscribing now.
Hey Mrrock..,
Awesome ! Welcome! We will keep the money saving videos coming!
Thx for sub-ing!!!
Why not add a couple of temporary struts to hold the post upright? I banged a couple of "anchors" into the ground using timber offcuts, then screwed or clamp a strut between the anchor and the main post. Do this again through 90 degrees, then adjust the struts so that the main post in truly vertical. Then you can pour in all the Postcrete in one go.
Hey Super,
Thanks for the tip....
And thx for watching.
@@Housebarons lol
If one would do this, do you have to drill into the post?
@@ShyRage1 I didn't. I fixed the struts with F-clamps. The struts are only needed until the Postcrete sets, about 20 minutes. I used a spirit level to ensure the post was properly positioned.
in my experience (built about 1000 feet of 4 board fence recently) using struts or bracing on posts of this size is not necessary. As Chris mentions in a post above, by the time you pour in dry mix the post is not going to move very much unless it gets hit real hard. You still have enough wiggle room to make small adjustments to level, but once you add water, in a few minutes the post isnt going to move from then on. My process is (1) dig 33-36" hole with 1-man gas auger (2) rake away excess dirt (3) tamp down bottom of hole with the post (4) add small layer of gravel if desired (5) stand post in the hole and get it positioned where it is perpendicular to the ground as it touches the string; (6) hold the post still in that spot and pour in 1 bag of the red concrete mix (shown in video, bought from Lowe's); (7) wiggle the post a little bit so that concrete settles around it 360 degrees; (8) check level and adjust accordingly. at this point you can let go of the post and the dry mix will pretty much hold it in place. (9) pour in some water and jab with a thin stick or rebar to mix in the hole and release air pockets, you have just a couple minutes from this point until the concrete sets; (10) wiggle the post a little and push back to level. After this first bag, the post is pretty much not going to move. (11) Add another bag of concrete and water, jab with stick, let dry. next hole. if i slice open the side of the concrete mix bag and lay it beside the hole, I can do all of the above myself. I hold the post in place with one hand and dump the concrete bag in the hole with the other. Probably 15 minutes altogether including digging the hole
Great video, hey, how long did it take you to place all those posts?
Hey scuttling…,
38 posts holes were dug in one day and it probably took a day or maybe a little more to set them. The whole fence took a week.
Thx for watching!
Very good, and help full.
Hey Nigel,
Thx for watching!
You mentioned to keep concrete around the posts BELOW the ground level - then build up with 'dirt' and create a 'slope' away from the posts to prevent water from going down into the post area. But I didn't see your actual finished area you described. Based on your how-to explanation, once rain hits, the 'dirt' mound around the posts would seem to just level out around the post and water would just soak down to the level of concrete and around the exposed 3-4" of post. Why not put concrete slightly ABOVE the ground level - then trowel out to create the proper descending grade so rain runs AWAY from the posts. OR - did I misunderstand how you finish the top area of the post hole? Thanks in advance for a reply.
Hey Rick ,
Should have said ( if I didn’t ), concrete ABOVE ground level sloping down.
Hope that helps.
Thx for watching!
Wow. You had a lot of posts to put in.
Hey David,
Yeah. Took all day. Something like 35 or 38
Thx for watching.
Great Video!! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tips it really was helpful
Hey William,
Thx for watching!
Use some thin rod and poke down into the cement powder. Releases air pockets. Ensures water soaks into all the concrete mix.
You could also set additional stones at the bottom of the post (not under) to prevent shifting.
Hey lenandov,
Thanks for the tips and for watching!
This is great advice. When installing wood posts, what's the best way to prevent the concrete around the base from rising? I heard things like a bell-shaped bottom and large deck screws screwed into the ground while in the hole. Are these ideal methods? I would love to hear everyone's input and suggestions. Many thanks
@@ShyRage1 have you heard of pea gravel at the bottom and just filling with dirt and tamping ?
So helpful
Thanks
Hey Godisallaroundus,
Thx for watching!
Good job I that I'm going to do the same thing you did thanks for the info...👍
Hey Mcm…,
Have fun. Thx for watching!
If I'm replacing posts, should I use the same holes? I see you set your posts to various heights...are they supposed to be the same?
Hey Ed,
I thought it would be easier to not worry about height while installing as they would all be too tall and would eventually need to be trimmed later.
You can do it either way - just preference.
Thx for watching!
Thanks for this demo and tips 👍. Very helpful.
Hey Rich,
Thx for letting us know & thx for watching.
I've been watching a few videos for mixing fast-setting concrete. I find it interesting how almost all the videos mention the importance of wearing a mask when working around concrete dust, but none of the people in the videos are wearing mask. Lead by example please.
Other than that, great advice in the video!
Hey Dexter,
😳 Oops! Good call. Thx for watching!
Good job
Hey Robert,
Thanks for watching!
What's with the boots?
Hey Dan,
Those are boots for pouring concrete slabs. It was pretty muddy in that yard so I used those - just hose off and you are good!
Thx for watching!
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. Thank you for explaining.
Hey Ivory,
Glad you liked it! Thx for watching!
I would think the posts could shift once you start adding the water. Do you have to fine tune them after adding the water to the mix?
Hey Joshua,
Because the holes are 30 inches deep, there is so much material around the posts that they are pretty solid. You can tap on the poles to move them incrementally before adding water - but I think you’d be surprised how solid they are locked in by mix alone. It never hurts to double check the plumb of the posts after adding water, but I never saw any movement.
Thx for the comment and for watching!
Your neighbor just pulled in, you should get him to help you.
so are you suppose to set the corner posts first then string line and follow the line to do the posts in the middle? does my question make sense?
Hey Daniel,
Yes. That sounds correct. Corner posts or corner stakes will provide the same method for a straight line. Thx for watching!
Thank you!
Hey Kenneth,
Thx for watching!
What diameter hole did you drill? Another video on the Quikrete says it should be 3x the post size, so a 4x4 would be a 12” diameter. Yours look smaller. I’m asking because if I can get away with a smaller hole than I will as long as it works.
Hey Mike,
I used an 8 inch auger. I first planned to use a 10 inch but the rental place only had 8 & 12.
My perspective :
1) I like to follow the source of information. quikrete is in the business of selling quikrete. 12 inches is about 3x the concrete as 8 inches ( volume of a circle less the post ). I could not make sense of why that amount of concrete would reasonably be needed. Telephone poles are only stuck in a deep hole - no concrete at all.
2) we have dense clay soil so I didn’t imagine much movement once in the ground.
3) I did a lot of research and found all kinds of ways to sink posts as well as how much concrete to use. 8 inches seemed both reasonable and a middle choice.
4) I had to dig the holes on my own. The one-man auger with an 8 inch auger was SERIOUS WORK. I can’t imagine what the 12 inch would have been for a lone digger!!
5) I occasionally manually widened a hole in order to get all the posts to line up perfectly. Operator error I guess - w/ that auger!😃
So there you go. Hope that helps! Enjoy the journey!
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons All states have code requirements for fences, there is a national code for them as well. Most of the information can be found in your zoning code which is local to each area. The size of the hole is determined by the wind load rating of your local zoning. Both depth and width are requirements of local zoning code.
@TheLawDemon same for me, we don't even get building permits doing decks and additions where I'm at.. If you screw up well its your problem type of thinking.
I’m installing a fence this coming week. 4x4 posts. I assumed 12 hole. Is 12 inches over kill?
Hey Most…,
Actually I think that is what to concrete bag recommends. But you will use a LOT more concrete ( do that math - volume of the hole less the volume of the post ).
We were going to do a 10 inch hole, but the rental company only had an 8 inch drill. So far so good - no complaints & fence looks great.
Your call. Have fun - it’s a great workout😃
Thx for watching!
add powder to water not water to powder and stir with a stick wile mixing , that is how block wall guys do it
Hey Terry,
Thx for the input and thx for watching!
Is it okay to use an agitator or a tamp to speed the watering process and to ensure good water distribution ?
Hey John,
It wasn’t needed for the concrete type that we bought. I guess you could…???
Thx for watching!
is that all the water you pure that was not much ? thx
Hey John,
Just followed direction on the bag. It also draws moisture from ground.
Thx for watching!
They told me that I need to put bituthene on the posts before I install them with cement is this true because a lot of people that just put the cement without waterproofing the posts
Hey Vegetable…,
If the posts are ore-treated, I doubt that’s needed. Green or brown treat posts are meant for ground contact.
Thx for watching!
Ive learned the hard way over the years.. Good advice here but mind if I ad a comment, you want the post to last as long as possible, so when I install any wooden post..I choose my height, and dig down just 2 more inches, pull the post back out, put in 2 inches of mix, then put the post back in so now it's actually sitting on the mix and not on bare soil otherwise it'll start decaying straight away..then bring the mix to the top, just over the level of the ground surface and with a trowel slope the mix away from the post, so the whole post is incased from sitting in moisture and it will last much much longer..if that makes sense.
Hey Paul,
Great comment! Thx for sharing and Thx for watching!
The water has no place to escape when you have concrete on all sides. the wood shrinks over time and the capillary action of the wood and water will draw water down into that concrete encasement rotting it from the bottom up.
Wood can't decay at the bottom of the hole as there is no Oxygen down there.........a common misconception. You see all these youtubers adding gravel to the bottom of the hole etc etc, not realisong that it does nothing. Posts always rot at ground level not at the base.
Thank you kindly
Hey Christopher, thx for watching!
So, did you use 2 50 lb bags per post?
Hey Darrell,
If I remember right it was closer to 1.5.
It all depends on how deep and how wide the hole is. Do the math and you might be shocked to see how much extra volume is created by a hole that is an extra 2 inches wider. So choose the auger size wisely.
Concrete manufacturer says something like 3x the post size to get the diameter of the hole. Obviously we did not do that .. or I’d still be digging!
Have fun!
Thx for watching.
If the directions specify to pour in the bag and then add water why would that way not work ? Why would the concrete be dry at the bottom ? Doesnt the manufacturer know how this mix works ?
Hey Anthony,
It does work. I would guess the manufacturer has figured this all out. Our fence is standing strong and unmoved.
Thx for watching!
Thank you
My fence installer put my posts in with concrete but when it dried, there are now a motes around the posts that collect water. I want to mound up more concrete so the water will shed away from the posts but I don't know how to get the new concrete (or cement if I can use hydraulic cement) to stick to the old concrete. Any ideas on how to do this would be appreciated. Thanks for all the great videos!
Little late,. but use a mortar mix instead of concrete. Type N would be better but Type S would be fine as most of the big box stores carry Type S. Make sure the existing concrete is clean and damp. Mortar is made to be sticky and exactly what you need here.
Do.. you cut them to length after?
how much do i dig for a 4 ft post
Hey Adela,
It depends on where you live. You need to get down below the frost line - below where the ground can freeze. That will stop the ground from forcing the post up over time.
Just guessing but Texas might be 24 inches and Michigan might be 36 inches .
Best to call local building department… they can give you a number.
Thx for watching!
What kind of boots do you have
Thanks!
This help!!
Hey 25MAMOU,
Great! Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons i need some advice....
Postcreat is alright so long as you pretend it is dry and put soil on top
Hey David,
Thx for watching!
I want your covers for your shoes. What are they called?
Hey Michael,
Those are concrete boots.
Try harbor freight.
Thx for watching.
Im trying to build a 12×12 (7 post) with a roof top for my horse.. i been habing hell trying to learn how to get my posts straight!! ... any more advice anyone?
Brace them off with stakes in ground that hold them level
I never doing half way by water..
I just pour 2 bags of concrete and then add 2 gallons of water...
Hey Alex,
Thx for watching.
b best if u poured the concrete above grade and sloped away frm post to keep water away
If you listened that's exactly what he said he was going to do....
What gravel did you use?
Hey mind...?
It was 3/4-2 inch gravel.
Thx for watching!
the same brand of concete mixed that was used in the video also says gravel for the application. Jus giving you a heads up
how do you set the height of all the posts?
Hey Handy,
I cut the tops of the posts off after hanging the horizontal boards. I just made sure I had at least 5 feet above ground. With 30 inch holes and 8 ft posts, that left me more than 5 ft for each post. Then if a hole is a little deeper than 30 inches, it’s no worries.
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons thanks!
How deep did you dig?
Hey Mark,
30-32 inches - below our frost-line!
Thx for watching.
You checked the post for plumb, not level.
Hey Red,
Thx for clarifying.
The bottom of your post is surrouded by air. Pulling it sideways to move the bottom. Okay with normal REAL concrete not with this dry guff. Also you never prodded the mix at all. Its wet about 1 foot down if your lucky. Never touch the stringline with the post. Unless you want a curve in your fence. Keep the posts a smidgen away from the string line.
There’s a video here on RUclips about pouring the Quikrete dry into the hole, then adding water. After it was dried up, they pulled the post from the ground and showed the results. The water actually makes it’s way all the way down.
When installing wood posts, what's the best way to prevent the concrete around the base from rising? I heard things like a bell-shaped bottom and large deck screws screwed into the ground while in the hole. Are these ideal methods? I would love to hear everyone's input and suggestions. Many thanks
@@ShyRage1 tp avoid the concrete from rising you dig below frost line where I'm at that's around 3 feet. To prevent water pooling and rotting the base of the post a strip of somo tube at the rope with a runoff into the grass you'll be good my guy. These guys always just pour the big and leave the top however it is. Water ends up sitting there over the year the whole fence topples over. I'm a cibcrete worker now but have many years exp building decks and fences. 90% of fence I used to have to re plant posts for or redo the complete fence was done incorrectly. Those fences could have last 20 years but instead tipped over in 10c
@@siilkyjohnson5779 how high should the somo tube be from ground level?
First things first. Explain those boots.
Hey Ben,
Those are concrete boots. Great for wading in concrete - they are just a rubber shell - hose off and go. I was wearing them because the yard pretty muddy - deep mud in places.
Thx for watching.
Are you telling me that your whole bucket of water got in the hole? It seems like it would take forever to absorb. Plus, why do you add concrete mix after and directly into the water. The ratio would not be right.
Hey Unknown…,
Per the directions all was to their receipt. Worked great.
Thx for watching!
None of use safety equipment unless Osha is watching.
Hey Mike,
TRUE.
Thx for watching!
Do I add water after I put the concrete in?
Hey Allen,
The directions in our bag said to add water after adding concrete unless you hole was more than 30 inches deep. Then you would fill half the hole, add water, then fill second half of the hole and add more water.
Note: this is a special kind of concrete mix that you can add to the hole dry and add water after. Most types of concrete have to be mixed w/ water first. Be sure to buy the right kind. The back of the bag should explain the process.
Thx for watching
@@Housebarons do I need 1 whole bag per post I'm making 55 post
Hey Allen,
Depends on the diameter of your hole. I think we used an 8” bore and we used 1-1.5 bags per hole 30-32 inches deep.
Thx sgain
@@Housebarons i wasn't wrong 30-32 inch deep. I have auger my dad was saying deep more. I am like naaaah man i am not in the shore or oil search. Yup it takes about 1-1/2 bag but did use a 6 inch bore. Going to buy the 8 inch it gives more play compare the 6in tight space. Will go more concrete chances are 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 per post. Good thing using an auger leaves the concrete cylinder in the way will be easy to slide it up in the future repairs. Compare old style will anchor so much in the soil to the point have to dig all around.
Concrete is not the best way to set a wooden post. Anytime you set a post you need to seal the wood to protect it from rot up to the mark of how deep it's buried. I use Redgard (2 coats) and be sure to do the bottom of the post. You can also use blackjack roofing sealer. I pack the post with 5/8 random aggregate and pack it in plumb up to 1 ft below ground level. Start with at least 4" of aggregate in the hole before you place the post in the hole. Cap it with concrete. You can use 8" cardboard tube for a form or you can build your own with scrap fence materials. I like to taper the slope away from the post with a 1/8 to 1/4" slope. The post hole for a 4x4 post should be at least 3 times the width of the material. My posts will outlast anything out there with just concrete
Hey Richard,
Thx for the detail in your comments and for watching!
not sure why your VERTICAL posts should be LEVEL?
Hey David,
Goood point! Missed that in the edit - Thx for watching
Always Pre-mix cement, then pour the in. Use a bucket to Pre-mix. Post was settle much better.
better off using a larger level n try not 2 throw ur level around like that. it will eventually no longer b accurate
b easier if u used stakes and 2x to nail to the post to keep it plumb
WHat kind of stakes are ideal?
@@ShyRage1 u can get sum 1x steax at home depot or u can make em urself by cutting a v at the end of a 1x3/4.
You did not seem to add much water
Hey Dig…,
We followed the bag directions. This concrete will also wick moisture from the ground ( which was pretty wet) which the manufactures planned on.
Thx for watching!
Not supposed to use gravel under wood fence posts bc ground water will cause it to rot when the post isn’t fully encased in concrete
Hey Johnsn10,
We buried a 2’ section of treated 4x4 about 15 years ago with total ground contact as a trampoline anchor. Trampoline is long gone, but the post is still there. Personally, I’m not worried about the potential exposed bottom of a post otherwise covered in concrete.
Thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
What he did was useless, the top 5 or 6 inches of that quickcrete will set and the rest underneath will stay dust.
What he should of done is put in about a fifth of a bag ,wet that let set for about ten minutes ,then fill the hole about 3/4 full with water and then pour the rest of the bag in around the post while tamping or mixing with a strick or off cut.
Hey Adam,
All I did was follow the directions on the bag.
That water didn't penetrate all the way down, there wasn't enough water to begin with. Dig up anyone of those posts to check there is no way they're set properly
Here's how you check without digging up the post, get a long masonry drill bit one that will reach the bottom of the dust. If its dust under the top layer you'll have little resistance n you go all the way to the bottom , you then get a hose n shoot water down that drill hole n do that several times around that post. If I'm wrong and you've got resistance all the way then fill the hole back in n enjoy the peace of mind.
@@adamormond9542 it works. There is a video here where a guy used this exact concrete then pulled the post out, and it is rock solid all the way down.
All depends on where you're at.
Wet environment (high humidity, lot of rain) dry setting works fine.
Arid environment would be best to mix it up.
To expensive that way. those bags really cost. you can mix and use one bag with a water mix.
Hey Dan,
Thx for the input and thx for watching!
prolly b better 2 mix ur concrete b4 pouring
lol Just use stakes to keep the post plumb and quit screwing around. What a dork. haha
Yes that's the easy way. Two wood stakes driven in ground and two furring strips attached to the stakes and post.
Don't ever go to Germany with that tash ............lol
The concrete is not supposed to be over the top and thus exposed to the elements. That's the top mistake people make.
Wrong...on wood fence posts the concrete should never be below ground level. Rather, concrete should slightly above ground in a mound shape so that water can shed off and away from the wood post. If concrete is below ground level the moisture/wet soil will slowly cause the wood post to rot where it encases the concrete.
@@harryl8234 yaya. It depends on geography/climate too. It doesn't matter if the concrete is under the soil as the water still contacts the entire concrete no matter what. The reason why people leave 4" or so at the top is so that the concrete is covered by a layer of soild that is all connected as one. So, as the temp. drops, the top soil freezes before the bottome. The theory is thus that in doing so, the frozen top soil helps to prevent freeze heaving.
Do whatever you want. If you take a clear box, fill it with dirt, then dig a post hole, put a minature post hole in there, concrete it up to and over the top soil and make your artistic mound. Then, once the concrete is hardened, take your hose and start spraying away. See what happens. Does the concrete get wet?
He has no idea what he's doing. lol
@@RobHTech the point is if the post is constantly surrounded with wet soil the post will rot sooner. Your analogy about the wet concrete is not exactly correct. The concrete if artistically shape correctly will shed water away from the post. Not saying the post won't rot, but it will be less susceptible to rot.
@@harryl8234 i agree with that. If talking about wood posts, then sure, it probably helps by slowing down the stream of water. Kind of how windows have a lip on the outside top and sometimes bottom: as the water slides down the house to the window, the water hits the lip which projects it off and away from the window.
But for chain link, not sure it really matters. In any case, they all have a life expectancy.
Wear a mask when working with cement. Being upwind is a fool's direction.
Get a professional is my suggestion I don't understand any of this stuff I'm beyond not handy
Hey Brandon,
Not a bad way to go if you have the money and know a pro you can trust.
Otherwise DIY Is 80 % education and 20% practice/ experience.
Thx for watching!
Who told you that was a right way to do it? That is such a lazy way to do it man
Hey Benjamin,
The manufacturer of the concrete mix made it for be used exactly the way we did it.
Thx for watching.
@@Housebarons Thats exactly right mate. The directions on the bag explain exactly how to do it the lazy way.
Never set wooden posts in concrete.....NEVER!!!! THEY WILL ROT QUICKLY!!!!!
Hey Darren,
So far, so good. The posts are treated.
Thx for watching!
You dont know what your doing.
You don’t know how to spell you’re.
@@stevee7774 Here I corrected it for you !!
In all my years as a timber fence builder you makes these videos so backwards.and it makes me laugh.
Tell me this.
If you are digging your holes 600mill deep by 200mill wide.
You put your post in the hole poor dry concrete in it and add water.
So my question is .by the video I just saw.
How does the water get to the bottom of the hole with all that dry concrete filled to the top of the hole.
If your concrete is not totally wet and only 100 to 200mill of water you put in.its doesn't secure the post to the hole .
Not very smart.
Hey Barry,
This seems to be a common misconception.
You may want to check with the quikrete company. We were just following their directions. They actually make a concrete for this purpose.
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons if you are a timber fence builder you should know dont blame the tools you are using. It's called commonsence. That you lack in
@@biggerthebetter and any craftsman worth their salt knows to use the right tools for the right job. As he said already, the concrete mix is designed to be used without the need for pre-mixing and is intended for lighter applications like fence posts. Quikrete’s fast-set mix also has the same strength rating as their general use mix at 4000psi. Sure, pre-mixing is more reliable but it is also far more time consuming and labor intensive. You wouldn’t use it for foundation work but again, right tools for the right job. Unless this guy’s fence is getting hit by a tornado or stampeded by a herd of cattle I doubt these posts are going anywhere for a while. Not sure what you’re so caught up on.
@@self2self9
Intended for light applications.
Do you have any idea how much weight there is on a fence post when building a timber fence.
Rails and palings.
If the post is not secure into the ground from top to bottom of concrete or cement and not dry but totally wet and mixed well.then any storm will blow it over.
So use your tools and your common-sense.
@@biggerthebetter LightER applications. A fence is far lighter than most other projects that concrete is intended and required to be used for. I understand your concern and I was skeptical when first using it but after multiple experiences with it it’s a lot more reliable that you may think. Two points I’d like to make on the mix being dry:
1. The concrete is designed so that the water is able to thoroughly wet the entire mix and avoid the very scenario you’re talking about. Spending just a couple minutes stirring/poking it with a piece of rebar or something ensures that even further.
2. Have you ever seen what happens to a bag of concrete that’s been left in a garage or shop for too long? It’ll harden like a rock from just the moisture in the air around it. Dirt and soil contains much more water in it than air so on the off chance the bottom stays dry during the pour there’s plenty of water in the ground for the mix to absorb and set in a relatively short amount of time.
Again, I understand your concern, but if that fence was planned and built properly then I am fairly certain a storm wouldn’t come close to knocking it over. It may damage parts of the fence but so would a baseball bat. It would take some extreme weather conditions to rip those posts out. If the guy does live in an area where such events do take place then there are far more precautions to take but this doesn’t appear to be the case.
Good job
Hey ag..,
Thanks for watching!