Man, I'm so glad when I see a new video from you come in. I think I've saved just about every video you've made. if you haven't already, please make a video of all of the tools on your wall. I want to make everything you have for both the power hammer side and the manual hammer side. I know your busy with regular work and family, that's why it's a special day when a new video comes from you. Cheers, friend.
+Torbjörn Åhman is there any chance I could buy your "imperfect" test piece? I love the idea of progression and while I could never afford an actual hand made axehead due to the hours that go into them I'd know I held the first step down that path. I hope that makes sense.
Excellent. Thank you for sharing! I used to think that craftsmanship was on the decline, but channels such as yours prove to me that it is merely harder to find through all of the riff-raff and cat videos.
Lee Dale not again? I wish they would just leave your poor cat alone, last time it took him 3 light years to recover and feel sure he will never be the same again poor little lad!
Great project! I thoroughly enjoy your approach to a project and the systematic follow through to completion. your work just flows so neatly toward the finish. Thank you for your effort to educate us.................Ross
Love your videos. I know nothing about blacksmithing, and probably never will know much, but your videos are kind of relaxing, and cool to see how things are made by hand. Your videos are similar to Primitive Technologies, but with metal.
I made my wood burning forge from my bored well water tank i cut in half, bolted on 4 metal legs. It now appears as a DIY barbecue grill in the making. Its all I had in scrap to get started. Hopefully by the end of Jan I will have it completed and up and running:) Torbjorn, hanks for you inspiration.
Wonderful job!! I wish that I had the chance to learn blacksmithing when I was younger. Now all I can do is watch videos of men like yourself doing the things that I wish I could do.
Check out his video about building his greenhouse. You'll get to see his robotic lawn mower. Yes, he has a lawn Roomba! Heck, just look at how organized his shop is. I'm pretty certain he is a meticulous guy. His "proof of concept" would be a personal triumph for me.
I love the last sentence in your comment Louis! Beautifully articulated and a sentiment I share. Keep up setting the bar higher for us Torbjorn, our wives don't thank you =)
I didn't now what a “drift” was, and I didn't want to look it up before watching the video. I like the challenge of working it out as it comes along :-) First I thought “axe head”, then “a knife” and finally aaaaah! That makes perfect sense.
Hello. Merci. Enrichissant. Se passer des postes à souder est un chemin nouveau à explorer ? Les maîtres sans passent volontier pour l âme d'un sabre... Merci encore pour votre partage.
Torbjorn,hi.Competent forging,thank you for filming and posting this. If i may,when you'll be forging an axe that you'll be finishing,i'd suggest using stock not so square(before slitting). As a general rule,the poll of an axe gives one a good idea of the starting stock's dimentions. Most commonly the Thickness would not exceed 3/4"(with the height of stock 2"+) That assures that the finished head of the tool does not loosen on the haft easily. Many of the axes(and other tools)where this,the Height of an eye is insufficient(relative the mass of head),have a tendency to loosen on their haft,as they exert the undue pressure on the wood fibers. Hope that you won't mind this gratuitous,unsolicited advice!Much respect,and the very best of forging to you!
What is the size of the power hammer used for the forging of the H13? Fortunately for me, I have the choice of a 50 or a 90 pound self contained hammer to purchase in the next month or 2. I'm having a hard time choosing.Any thoughts Torbjorn?
It's a 75kg hammer. In my mind you will always look for a bigger hammer :) I would go for the big one, but it depends on what you do! I'm a hobbyist and like to have all options available, but if you're into something specific you might choose after your needs.
My grandfather was a blacksmith,he was the last blacksmith for Camden County New Jersey, I always found working with metal a lot of fun I can stick weld pretty good but always found working with metal a lot of fun maybe it's in the genes
Beautiful Hatchet and axe drift. Thanks for sharing knowledge. I too want to start smithing axe, hatchet wood splitting muals. I guess the first thing is to learn smithing by making ones own tools? All the Very Best!
I see you wear a respirator when welding. I strongly recommend you also wear it when handling vermiculite, that is almost as bad as asbestos in regards to irritating particulates.
Really? To my knowledge the vermiculite itself is not harmful in that way... but the product can be contaminated with asbestos... that said, you really should avoid all dust if possible, respirator is on!
I use it occasionally at work, and the dust is very hard on your throat and lungs if you work with it for a long time. It may not be cancerous, but it does make you uncomfortable.
I could certainly make a wooden handle fit that eye. Concept proved. Well done, and well done indeed. Yes, maybe it should be a little fatter but that depends on whether you are forging a hatchet or a full-size axe. I can hardly wait to see you forge at least a hatchet.
Typically the hatchet is used with one hand; the axe is used with two hands. But there are "axes" out there I could use one-handed, also very large hatchets:)
I've had good experience annealing h13 just putting is back in the fire and letting it go out. going home for the night and I usually draw file as I have more files and time than belt grinders.thanx, -mike from Kalapooia forge-
We always do a spheroid anneal for H13. from about 1600° with a 40° per hour decrease in temp. Its tough stuff.before we had a kiln we would heat another piece of metal to put in the ashes or vermiculite with it to hold temp a little longer.
That's a nice trick which also came to my mind when I started grinding... The impression I got was that the thinner sections was harder. Laminating the drift side between two other pieces of hot steel during cooling may work better!
Thanks Torbjörn for your wonderful works. I ask you please to put a protective filter from the welding lights because they are also very bad for the eyes for those who stare at them on the PC screen.
Hello! Well, both yes and no... The hardest question is what size do I need? Ha ha.. then you need a PID controller for temperature ramping up and down and some good durable insulation + this and that... I have thought about it :)
You mentioned that the profile was a little smaller than expected. Would you increase the size of parent stock if you were doing another? How about 38mm or 1-1/2?Thank you for a great video. As I have mentioned before, there are many of us that appreciate your efforts and learn by watching you do your thing. Hope to meet you one day.Ron
I don't think I need bigger parent stock... instead of setting it down on the diagonal, I would keep it on the flats and use a fullering tool to spread it sideways. This will of cause result in a rectangular shape and since it's so hard to grind I would figure out a way to forge the round/oval/tear drop shape.... not sure how that is done best though.
Thanks, Great Video! Learned a lot about that H13. Noticed you brushing the slag a lot but didn't see much coming off? That hex handle seemed almost perfect like you started with hex. Beautiful test run with it!! Look forward to seeing you work on some axes. Thanks Much! ~PJ
Thanks! I'm learning as I go :) The handle is actually octagon (4 sides + 4 corners forged down), but it doesn't matter :) Hex is cool too, but harder to forge, then you have to turn 30 degrees, and judging that by eye needs some training.
Didn't see it well but Thanks I get it about hex vs oct from square stock being much harder to forge. Never actually thought about that...old guy learning too. ~¿@ Thanks Torbjorn! ~PJ
H13 is also very difficult to harden in a blacksmith shop. All the data I can find shows using a computer controlled furnace. I know some would see a video of the process as boring, but it would be nice to see. I have machined H13 extrusion dies, but never thought of using it in a blacksmith shop.
Correct! Almost all steel is impossible to heat treat to spec in a simple forge. For this application I'm not after the properties that heat treatment gives. For a drift like this the important part is the H13 steels ability to withstand high heat without deforming (too much)....
So you don't temper the H13, just air hardening. Back in the 1980's there was a sister alloy to H13 called I12. I have been doing research and can find no trace of the data on I12. We used it on 1" thick extrusion dies when the H13 order had been delayed. I have watched this video at least 3 times and each time I am amazed at how little the H13 is displaced with each strike of the hammer. Other blacksmiths use 4340 for drifts as it is easier to form. Do you have any thoughts of 4340?
Yes air hardened or as forged... A drift will often heat up beyond tempering temperatures anyway, so you will loose whatever properties you have there. I haven't used 4340 that much, but many smiths seems to like it. It also air hardens somewhat.
I've worked with metal before at my university, with the milling machine and all that stuff, as well as the general sawing, welding, etc. Meanwhile this looks far more fun with more artistic freedom, so I'm really interested to try this someday, but power hammer aside, does it need A LOT of strength to shape the steel with the hammer? I wonder if us ladies can do blacksmithing too...
Ok, cool. Sure you can, the smaller stuff is no problem. Larger forgings are heavy work for anyone :) Try get in contact with a local blacksmith or group, to try it out!
Not that I'm claiming to know everything about crafting of the metallurgical arts, but the only thing I saw wrong with your test piece was it's a little off kilter. By that I mean in the process of working it, it turned. Not enough to really notice unless you have a perfectionists eye, which I do do to my OCD. Other than that I think it looks pretty good in all reality.
hej Torbjörn , long time,no see. kul att se en ny video, mitt Facebook konto blev hackat så har inte hängt med på dina projekt riktigt, kul med yxor dessutom :-) du får höra av dig när yxorna börjar ta form, jag skulle gladeligen betala stort för ett utav ditt hantverk! Ha det fint!
I know I'm late to the game here, but a chunk of 1 3/8" steel, even H13, doesn't need to be preheated that much. Just enough to sweat the moisture out of it is plenty.
@@torbjornahman no, but once the steel is that hot, you're already starting to change the crystal structure inside. Which changes how the weld affects it. It's hard to explain with out going too deep into metallurgy.
I have what may seem like a rookie question. Why all the PPE? I've hit some steel, and it doesn't seem like such a necessity. What am I missing? Gases? I get eye protection because of shrapnel, but the respirator?
Torbjörn Åhman I can't say I've done 'days of forging' lol but that definitely makes more sense. If you're at it that often, it makes sense that your intake will be a good amount. Thanks for the reply, and the vids! I learn a lot from watching you work
Thanks for videoing this necessary tool for wood splitting heads. I been looking for how to make this axe drift. Your video are so helpful. How how do you charge for a Scandinavian Forest Axe head type? Keep up the great videos Trobjorn.
Another awesome video! Does it change the hardness of the tool over time to be used against the hot iron? Does the tool eventually "anneal" and does it ever need rehardening?
super good video. The steel *H13* it is like what kind of Hardox steel. Hardox100, -200-, -300-, -400-, -500-? do you use H13 when you do the cutting part of an axe?
Thanks. H13 is not related to the hardox designation at all. H stands for "Hot working steel". I think it has allot more chromium content. It is no good for an edge..
Thanks, i will ask to the owner of the place that i bought my pieces of steel. May be i will know. Because from different place in the world, the same material does not name by the same name. Have a good day.
You said that the H13 steel was hard to work. What kind of steel would you use if you were to hand forge it. Would spring steel from a coil spring work? I always enjoy your videos
He he, wouldn't choose that for no reason :) It's a hot working steel and keeps its shape and hardness even at a red heat. This means that I can forge on the axe with the drift in place and not deform it.
I may be wrong, because I'm not much of a metallurgist, but since h13 is an air hardening steel, when using the drift, isn't their a chance that it will get hot and harden? and then next time you use it have it brake, because it is too hard? also, what was the point in hardening it, its going to loose it hardness the first time its used? like I said, I'm not much of a metallurgist, so more than likely I'm wrong about something. Other than that, you did great! I always enjoy your videos, and they seem to be getting better and better! awesome job!
It would never get hot enough to harden more and this type of steel does not lose its hardness easy.. It is not like regular high carbon steels with temper colours, as you can see when he tries to soften the striking face
The point of the first hardening (in my mind) is more of a controlled thermal cycle to even out the structure. H13 is extremely tough, and will not snap like a regular hardened high carbon steel. It's a hot working steel so it stays hard very high up in the temperature scale.
Thanks both of y'all for clarifying! Like I said, Im Not much of a metallurgist, and don't bother working with any air hardening steels.thanks for teaching me something new!
I closed my eyes when you were welding. I've gotten flashed a couple times. It took about half a before I felt it. At first it felt like a gnat flew in my eye, nothing much. It slowly got worse till it was very uncomfortable. I understand getting flashed to be blisters on the eyeball. I heard the fix is to boil an egg and that thin skin between the egg and the shell has to be placed on the eye between the eye and eyelid. I just suffered with it for a day.
I prefer a drift with a wider chisel base and a thicker top diameter, it leaves the cheeks a little thicker and gives it a wider eye, witch also makes it easier to build the handle, the handle is stronger near the head, and it splits better even if it's not a splitting style head
It is obvious that you know what you are doing.....no wasted motion, precise technique....great video!
Man, I'm so glad when I see a new video from you come in. I think I've saved just about every video you've made. if you haven't already, please make a video of all of the tools on your wall. I want to make everything you have for both the power hammer side and the manual hammer side.
I know your busy with regular work and family, that's why it's a special day when a new video comes from you.
Cheers, friend.
Thanks!
+Torbjörn Åhman is there any chance I could buy your "imperfect" test piece? I love the idea of progression and while I could never afford an actual hand made axehead due to the hours that go into them I'd know I held the first step down that path. I hope that makes sense.
***** Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I want to sell a piece like that. I do understand your thinking though.
+ 1
Excellent. Thank you for sharing!
I used to think that craftsmanship was on the decline, but channels such as yours prove to me that it is merely harder to find through all of the riff-raff and cat videos.
Onuma was thinking of filming my cat finishing forging his own bowl but you have ruined it for him.Will have to post his alien abduction vid.
Lee Dale not again? I wish they would just leave your poor cat alone, last time it took him 3 light years to recover and feel sure he will never be the same again poor little lad!
That's because the galaxy is on Orion's belt.
Everything you do just feels like all the proportions and the process is weighed with judgement but calm artistry. Love all your videos!
Thank you!!
there is something relaxing about seeing your videos
Great project! I thoroughly enjoy your approach to a project and the systematic follow through to completion. your work just flows so neatly toward the finish. Thank you for your effort to educate us.................Ross
Which do you prefer to make more Torbjorn? Art or tools? In many ways, it's all art really! Have a blessed day!
Not sure, tools I guess...
Experience is the mother of science. Nice video; ty Sir for sharing
Love your videos. I know nothing about blacksmithing, and probably never will know much, but your videos are kind of relaxing, and cool to see how things are made by hand.
Your videos are similar to Primitive Technologies, but with metal.
Great! Thanks.
The precision of your work never fails to impress, nice job.
He is a excellent craftsman, very experienced
I made my wood burning forge from my bored well water tank i cut in half, bolted on 4 metal legs. It now appears as a DIY barbecue grill in the making. Its all I had in scrap to get started. Hopefully by the end of Jan I will have it completed and up and running:) Torbjorn, hanks for you inspiration.
Great! Good luck!!
Wonderful job!! I wish that I had the chance to learn blacksmithing when I was younger. Now all I can do is watch videos of men like yourself doing the things that I wish I could do.
It's never too late!
the learning has no age so do u u can learn anything u want it just requires practice and determination
Your lawn is immaculate. It looks like you mowed, vacuumed, starched, pressed, and buffed it before you made that can of vermiculite outside. :)
Check out his video about building his greenhouse. You'll get to see his robotic lawn mower. Yes, he has a lawn Roomba! Heck, just look at how organized his shop is. I'm pretty certain he is a meticulous guy. His "proof of concept" would be a personal triumph for me.
Ha ha... Yes, the robot mower does a good job! Organized? I keep looking for things all the time.... :)
I love the last sentence in your comment Louis! Beautifully articulated and a sentiment I share. Keep up setting the bar higher for us Torbjorn, our wives don't thank you =)
xmaswitguns
@@torbjornahman Thanks great to learn.
Surprized no test fit into standard axe handle at end of video.
Great video Thank you Sir
That's cool. Angle grinder is the way to go on that task.
I didn't now what a “drift” was, and I didn't want to look it up before watching the video. I like the challenge of working it out as it comes along :-) First I thought “axe head”, then “a knife” and finally aaaaah! That makes perfect sense.
Great! :)
Fantastic. Respect from Italy!!!
Another Great video! I always enjoy watching your stuff.
Oooo maybe an Viking axe is coming hahaha great project torbjörn
I LOVE my Granfors Brux! What a piece of gear!!
Love your work too man! You inspire me.
...although I do NOT have any experience lol
This is great! I've been trying to make one out of 4140 and it is hard work!
Great video. All respect to your skills.
Каждый уважающий себя кузнец делает свой инструмент сам. Классная работа. Молодец 👍👍
@ASPIRINKA Rin да , сморозил , но , тем не менее , парень молодец . И ему за это 👍. А вот что ты сделал ?
Lovely work. Thanks for sharing. All the best Mat
Your yard looks like golf course quality 👍🏼
That really is a tough steel, seems to stay hotter, longer from friction alone! I know this is an older video, but I still enjoy it all the same!
I thoroughly enjoy both the content and quality of your production. I'll be keeping an eye on your channel ;). Tack!
Tack! :)
Hello.
Merci. Enrichissant.
Se passer des postes à souder est un chemin nouveau à explorer ?
Les maîtres sans passent volontier pour l âme d'un sabre...
Merci encore pour votre partage.
Thanks. Yes you can do a lot of work without a welder, but it's a good thing to have.
You do a great job! If I could do half as good I would be very happy.
I absolutely love watching your channel, you make the coolest stuff ever. Would love to learn how to be a blacksmith from you
:) Thanks!
Sir, excellent video. Thank you.
6:30 now THAT'S an anvil!
Torbjorn,hi.Competent forging,thank you for filming and posting this.
If i may,when you'll be forging an axe that you'll be finishing,i'd suggest using stock not so square(before slitting).
As a general rule,the poll of an axe gives one a good idea of the starting stock's dimentions.
Most commonly the Thickness would not exceed 3/4"(with the height of stock 2"+)
That assures that the finished head of the tool does not loosen on the haft easily.
Many of the axes(and other tools)where this,the Height of an eye is insufficient(relative the mass of head),have a tendency to loosen on their haft,as they exert the undue pressure on the wood fibers.
Hope that you won't mind this gratuitous,unsolicited advice!Much respect,and the very best of forging to you!
Thanks! No problem! The last part was only a test to see the shape
You can tell the H3 steel was hard as even the power hammer was sweating 😂 👍
Such a beautiful forge
Good Job - darn nice shop!
What is the size of the power hammer used for the forging of the H13? Fortunately for me, I have the choice of a 50 or a 90 pound self contained hammer to purchase in the next month or 2. I'm having a hard time choosing.Any thoughts Torbjorn?
It's a 75kg hammer. In my mind you will always look for a bigger hammer :) I would go for the big one, but it depends on what you do! I'm a hobbyist and like to have all options available, but if you're into something specific you might choose after your needs.
My grandfather was a blacksmith,he was the last blacksmith for Camden County New Jersey, I always found working with metal a lot of fun I can stick weld pretty good but always found working with metal a lot of fun maybe it's in the genes
It probably is! Do you own any old tools left by your grandfather?
unfortunately not
Beautiful Hatchet and axe drift. Thanks for sharing knowledge. I too want to start smithing axe, hatchet wood splitting muals. I guess the first thing is to learn smithing by making ones own tools? All the Very Best!
Thanks!! Yes, it's a good start to start with your own tools, but it takes a while to reach the goal.
Love the videos please keep them coming
i dont know y but i love this video watching it again man😀
Holy crap that steel is tough.
Nice video, Torbjorn - as usual. Cheers, Mark
Thanks Mark!!
I see you wear a respirator when welding. I strongly recommend you also wear it when handling vermiculite, that is almost as bad as asbestos in regards to irritating particulates.
Really? To my knowledge the vermiculite itself is not harmful in that way... but the product can be contaminated with asbestos... that said, you really should avoid all dust if possible, respirator is on!
I use it occasionally at work, and the dust is very hard on your throat and lungs if you work with it for a long time. It may not be cancerous, but it does make you uncomfortable.
Excellent work as usual sir.
Thanks
Have you studied Brian Brazeal's work or worked with Alfred Habberman?
Brian's work has inspired me allot, yes!
I could certainly make a wooden handle fit that eye. Concept proved. Well done, and well done indeed. Yes, maybe it should be a little fatter but that depends on whether you are forging a hatchet or a full-size axe. I can hardly wait to see you forge at least a hatchet.
It will most probably be a hatchet, yes... I don't quite know were the line is drawn between a hatchet and an axe?
Typically the hatchet is used with one hand; the axe is used with two hands. But there are "axes" out there I could use one-handed, also very large hatchets:)
Juan Rivero ok! Here we don't make that distinction really... they are all axes more or less.
Good job as usual
Awesome work ,great tool
todo lo que haces parece fácil pero la experiencia que tiene usted así lo hace ver
I've had good experience annealing h13 just putting is back in the fire and letting it go out. going home for the night and I usually draw file as I have more files and time than belt grinders.thanx, -mike from Kalapooia forge-
ok! I wouldn't risk my lathe or milling machine or shop saw for that matter using this method though. It's a tricky alloy!
We always do a spheroid anneal for H13. from about 1600° with a 40° per hour decrease in temp. Its tough stuff.before we had a kiln we would heat another piece of metal to put in the ashes or vermiculite with it to hold temp a little longer.
That's a nice trick which also came to my mind when I started grinding... The impression I got was that the thinner sections was harder. Laminating the drift side between two other pieces of hot steel during cooling may work better!
Beautiful video
may we look forward to a axe forging video?
messerist
Just in case you missed it, he has done a couple of axes by now.
Thanks Torbjörn for your wonderful works. I ask you please to put a protective filter from the welding lights because they are also very bad for the eyes for those who stare at them on the PC screen.
:) Why?? A screen can't produce any harmful light.
very enjoyable as always, making a hest treating oven is actually fairly simple and cheap if one would be useful for you
Hello! Well, both yes and no... The hardest question is what size do I need? Ha ha.. then you need a PID controller for temperature ramping up and down and some good durable insulation + this and that... I have thought about it :)
Love your videos!
You mentioned that the profile was a little smaller than expected. Would you increase the size of parent stock if you were doing another? How about 38mm or 1-1/2?Thank you for a great video. As I have mentioned before, there are many of us that appreciate your efforts and learn by watching you do your thing. Hope to meet you one day.Ron
I don't think I need bigger parent stock... instead of setting it down on the diagonal, I would keep it on the flats and use a fullering tool to spread it sideways. This will of cause result in a rectangular shape and since it's so hard to grind I would figure out a way to forge the round/oval/tear drop shape.... not sure how that is done best though.
At 7:22 I though he was mocking the power hammer lol
love your powerhamer
Thanks, Great Video! Learned a lot about that H13. Noticed you brushing the slag a lot but didn't see much coming off? That hex handle seemed almost perfect like you started with hex. Beautiful test run with it!! Look forward to seeing you work on some axes. Thanks Much! ~PJ
Thanks! I'm learning as I go :) The handle is actually octagon (4 sides + 4 corners forged down), but it doesn't matter :) Hex is cool too, but harder to forge, then you have to turn 30 degrees, and judging that by eye needs some training.
Didn't see it well but Thanks I get it about hex vs oct from square stock being much harder to forge. Never actually thought about that...old guy learning too. ~¿@ Thanks Torbjorn! ~PJ
@torbjornahman Thanks for this great video! One question, though. Why do you preheat the metal before welding?
Tool steel really don't like to be welded, with local heat.
H13 is also very difficult to harden in a blacksmith shop. All the data I can find shows using a computer controlled furnace. I know some would see a video of the process as boring, but it would be nice to see. I have machined H13 extrusion dies, but never thought of using it in a blacksmith shop.
Correct! Almost all steel is impossible to heat treat to spec in a simple forge. For this application I'm not after the properties that heat treatment gives. For a drift like this the important part is the H13 steels ability to withstand high heat without deforming (too much)....
So you don't temper the H13, just air hardening. Back in the 1980's there was a sister alloy to H13 called I12. I have been doing research and can find no trace of the data on I12. We used it on 1" thick extrusion dies when the H13 order had been delayed. I have watched this video at least 3 times and each time I am amazed at how little the H13 is displaced with each strike of the hammer. Other blacksmiths use 4340 for drifts as it is easier to form. Do you have any thoughts of 4340?
Yes air hardened or as forged... A drift will often heat up beyond tempering temperatures anyway, so you will loose whatever properties you have there. I haven't used 4340 that much, but many smiths seems to like it. It also air hardens somewhat.
thx for this
Gorgeous!
I was curious what the weight of your anvil is?
Also I Love watching your content!! ✊⚒️
Thanks! Here is some info - ruclips.net/video/mWDQbcoTyNw/видео.html
I've worked with metal before at my university, with the milling machine and all that stuff, as well as the general sawing, welding, etc. Meanwhile this looks far more fun with more artistic freedom, so I'm really interested to try this someday, but power hammer aside, does it need A LOT of strength to shape the steel with the hammer? I wonder if us ladies can do blacksmithing too...
Ok, cool. Sure you can, the smaller stuff is no problem. Larger forgings are heavy work for anyone :) Try get in contact with a local blacksmith or group, to try it out!
Thank for another great video!
Man, that stuff is tough!
It is... I was forging some mild steel afterwards and it was like butter compared to this. Had to throttle down a bit :)
Not that I'm claiming to know everything about crafting of the metallurgical arts, but the only thing I saw wrong with your test piece was it's a little off kilter. By that I mean in the process of working it, it turned. Not enough to really notice unless you have a perfectionists eye, which I do do to my OCD. Other than that I think it looks pretty good in all reality.
Thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍
Could you have driven it hot into a cold axe head to get the final shape?
No I don't think so. But there is always good to have a reference of some sort.
is that a new power hammer?
Not really... have you followed my videos? I have had the air hammer now for about 1,5 years
Здравствуйте можно у вас заказать пробойник для топора и молотка?
I love my GB hatchet and my SA Wetterlings axe!!
ok, good!
What is the function of vermiculite in contact with hot iron? Gracias. (Form Mar del Plata, Argentina)
It's a good insulator and makes the steel cool slowly!
hej Torbjörn , long time,no see. kul att se en ny video, mitt Facebook konto blev hackat så har inte hängt med på dina projekt riktigt, kul med yxor dessutom :-) du får höra av dig när yxorna börjar ta form, jag skulle gladeligen betala stort för ett utav ditt hantverk! Ha det fint!
Hej. Japp, vi får väl se hur det går... :)
Håller med Victor, så fort det finns ett pris så kan jag börja spara..
I know I'm late to the game here, but a chunk of 1 3/8" steel, even H13, doesn't need to be preheated that much. Just enough to sweat the moisture out of it is plenty.
It doesn't hurt I guess.
@@torbjornahman no, but once the steel is that hot, you're already starting to change the crystal structure inside. Which changes how the weld affects it. It's hard to explain with out going too deep into metallurgy.
I have what may seem like a rookie question. Why all the PPE? I've hit some steel, and it doesn't seem like such a necessity. What am I missing? Gases? I get eye protection because of shrapnel, but the respirator?
I just don't like to breathe all the dust. Have you blown your nose after a days forging?
Torbjörn Åhman I can't say I've done 'days of forging' lol but that definitely makes more sense. If you're at it that often, it makes sense that your intake will be a good amount. Thanks for the reply, and the vids! I learn a lot from watching you work
Just need a couple of hours for a black nose :)
Thanks for videoing this necessary tool for wood splitting heads. I been looking for how to make this axe drift. Your video are so helpful. How how do you charge for a Scandinavian Forest Axe head type? Keep up the great videos Trobjorn.
Thanks. I don't sell any axe heads. Not yet at least... I have far too little experience with axe designs.
Thanks for your reply. keep up the great work.
Might I know what you use to heat your metal at 1:40?
It's coke.
Another awesome video! Does it change the hardness of the tool over time to be used against the hot iron? Does the tool eventually "anneal" and does it ever need rehardening?
It shouldn't change much. It will never anneal. It will always stay hardened.
May we expect an axe-making video in the near future? Great videos!
I hope so :) I'm new to this, so it's all a bit of trial and error right now.
super good video. The steel *H13* it is like what kind of Hardox steel. Hardox100, -200-, -300-, -400-, -500-? do you use H13 when you do the cutting part of an axe?
Thanks. H13 is not related to the hardox designation at all. H stands for "Hot working steel". I think it has allot more chromium content. It is no good for an edge..
Thanks, i will ask to the owner of the place that i bought my pieces of steel. May be i will know. Because from different place in the world, the same material does not name by the same name. Have a good day.
You said that the H13 steel was hard to work. What kind of steel would you use if you were to hand forge it. Would spring steel from a coil spring work? I always enjoy your videos
I would probably go for something like 4140 or 4340. Spring steel would probably work too.
@@torbjornahman thank you, I've been a farrier for 30 years but I'm just venturing into black smithing. I always appreciate your videos.
It has a very high heat capacity. Seems to like staying hot
It caught its self on fire twice in the middle of forging!
Oh it happened a lot more than that. Now that I paid attention
Did you choose the H13 for a reason? Or was it something you had around the shop?Love your videos, keep them coming!!!
He he, wouldn't choose that for no reason :) It's a hot working steel and keeps its shape and hardness even at a red heat. This means that I can forge on the axe with the drift in place and not deform it.
Thanks! I've never worked with H13 before sounds like the perfect metal for the job.
Просто музыка для ушей и глаз!!! Мастер!!!
Thanks!!
Why did you pre-heating for welding on a handle ? You couldn't weld it if it was cold ?
H13 steel is a tricky alloy and does not weld very well. It can crack at the joint if not treated right.
Torbjörn Åhman thanks for your answer !
I may be wrong, because I'm not much of a metallurgist, but since h13 is an air hardening steel, when using the drift, isn't their a chance that it will get hot and harden? and then next time you use it have it brake, because it is too hard? also, what was the point in hardening it, its going to loose it hardness the first time its used? like I said, I'm not much of a metallurgist, so more than likely I'm wrong about something. Other than that, you did great! I always enjoy your videos, and they seem to be getting better and better! awesome job!
It would never get hot enough to harden more and this type of steel does not lose its hardness easy.. It is not like regular high carbon steels with temper colours, as you can see when he tries to soften the striking face
The point of the first hardening (in my mind) is more of a controlled thermal cycle to even out the structure. H13 is extremely tough, and will not snap like a regular hardened high carbon steel. It's a hot working steel so it stays hard very high up in the temperature scale.
Thanks both of y'all for clarifying! Like I said, Im Not much of a metallurgist, and don't bother working with any air hardening steels.thanks for teaching me something new!
Is it just me or that power hammer sounds amazing.
:) It's better in real life !!
Yeah I bet. You have a wonderful job.
You know, I might just try that millimeter, centimeter method of measuring. It sounds more straightforward than 13/16+ or 7/8 - , for example.
:) You should try it!
you videos are top notch. :D
Are your Swedish Pattern Crosspeen hammers Hultefors brand, I have a 2.2# Looks very similar
Yes I have a couple of them, Hultafors. Actually they are "TOR" hammers, but that company was bought by hultafors some years ago.
I closed my eyes when you were welding. I've gotten flashed a couple times. It took about half a before I felt it. At first it felt like a gnat flew in my eye, nothing much. It slowly got worse till it was very uncomfortable. I understand getting flashed to be blisters on the eyeball. I heard the fix is to boil an egg and that thin skin between the egg and the shell has to be placed on the eye between the eye and eyelid. I just suffered with it for a day.
I prefer a drift with a wider chisel base and a thicker top diameter, it leaves the cheeks a little thicker and gives it a wider eye, witch also makes it easier to build the handle, the handle is stronger near the head, and it splits better even if it's not a splitting style head
Good! I'm new to axes and the geometry so this is my first try!
never clean your material 8:55 with a wire brush under a live power hammer
Vart kan man få tag på namn och begrepp på alla smed verktyg och tillbehör på svenska?
Jadu, bra fråga... det finns en bok "Järnsmidesboken" av Enander och Norén. Där finns en del matnyttigt.
Torbjörn Åhman tackar👍🏻
h13 is really good to use with hot steel but really expensive right? how much cost your billet and where can i take, thank you
It's hard to come by in smaller quantities. Bought mine from another blacksmith. The billet probably will cost you $60 or so from a supplier.
mm okok, thank you, i searched online but nothing, will see in future
But why harden and temper? Wouldn't you lose your temper when drifting an axe that's hot out of the forge?
H13 is an air hardening steel, so what I do in the video is more or less a "normal" normalization cycle.
Huh interesting, I've never worked with H13, I usually make my drifts and hammers out of 4140
Do you use H13 for all or most of your tools?
No, definitely not. But for hot working tools like punches/drifts, especially those used under a power hammer.
Trevlig sida! Gör du slagsidan mjukare för att den inte ska spricka?
Tack. Japp, det är tanken.