DIY 52KWH Nissan Leaf 28Kwh Extender Battery Pt1
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2020
- Hello and welcome to my channel.
this is not a how to video, this is just me showing what I am doing. The battery in this video could kill you if you do not know what you can and can not touch . - Наука
Watch Part 2 before even thinking about doing his on your own leaf.
Witch is the balancer ?
Where's part 2
@@ThomasWhittaker ruclips.net/video/Dd0qeoDwEmY/видео.html
You are awesome man this is truly inspirational. I been watching you for years and so many of your videos I think of but you actually do them. I learn all the time and have been uping my skills. Cant wait to see how this works out. AMAZING!!!!!
thanks man! glad you liked it! im in testing but i have already noticed a big difference.
I found this video quite exciting! First time I've seen an electric car worked on. Love it.
@@NeillWylie I still drive it
Wow you gave the car a brand new life!
Interesting Project !!! ...hopefully everything works out !!
That's one hell of an ambitious project.
I would do it if ,I wasn't scared to be a crispy critter.
WOW looks cool dude. That's a LOT of work to bad you can't find a full pack to replace it when you had that down. Love how your doing this.Thanks for sharing. God Bless.
thanks man, im so exited to get her 100% done.
Wow you guys are really brave. You get your hands on it with no gloves no protections at all 😂😂. Nice job by the way
Always enjoy your vids
thanks!
Good luck man stay safe.
thanks its coming along nicely!
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
Awesome project I think when apart I would have replaced any modules that were low or just used a replacement battery and kept the good ones for the additional battery but I know you have a plan can't wait to see the next part. The trick will be to fool the Leaf system into not knowing you have two batteries. GOOD luck my friend.
i was looking into a battery but it was 5000 bucks :S
@@GoingOffGrid101 Charging it back up may be the challenge after a few cycles but even if you get 50 more km's it's a win.
@@offgridwanabe its no problem at all, everything works great!
@@GoingOffGrid101 Great
I did the same to my nissan leaf ,the computer will read the same range ,so i took it for a long down hill dive for a full charge of 180mile added ,and it hold its charge!! I was so happy 😊 I went from 60mile to 170miles ,even recharge at the plug goes back up to 170
How to add km on computer man. After add old battery in trunk?
Fantastic ... subscribed.
Thank you sir for sharing this information and I want to ask you for a simple wiring and cable planner to understand the process further with many thanks in advance
I know pretty well Flynn , I did the electrical renovation more than ten years ago !
Very interesting
HEllo! Great build. I saw a lubricant I could not identify though... you used it at 15:00 - it is in a green aluminium bottle in your right hand...:)
keeps me moving :D
Guts you have!
haha thanks
It looks like there isn't enough protection for the cables going through the holes? Or is there something covered up by the spray foam? Waterproof flex conduit and fittings are pretty cheap.
I used silicone and spray foam, first silicone to make a thick barrier around the wires then spray foam to hold the wires from moving
This'd be cool to do to my 2013 honda CRZ, thing has a sub 1kWh battery pack, would love to be able to throw in a 3-6kWh pack and make it a plug-in. Then re-program the controller to be more agressive with using the battery. As it stands now with the way i drive, the battery indicator nerver drops below 1 bar from full. If it could use the battery while the engine is warming up that would greatly improve efficiency. Also wouldnt mind replacing that hot box of a glass trunk lid with a solar pannel, the window is useless for how tall i am, and with a solar panel, it could fully charge the original battery in just over half a work day
Out of curiosity how much battery degradation did you have it is super impressive that you're doubling the capacity but would it not have been a good idea to recondition the battery since you already had it out?
The battery in car is well balanced but warn out. Battery in car is at 60% state of health
Voltage up, wire size down.
To pass 200 amps at 12v, will definitely need a thicker chunk of metal..... 200amps at 240v = easier. The prius MG1 and MG2 are fed a good chunk of amperage at 600+ volts yet fed with perhaps maybe a 4 gauge wire.
Voltage can be your friend and your enemy. Typically the latter, so play safe folks!
This is awesome! I've been intimidated to do a project like this because I don't know how to write CAN BUS. But if you are correct, and this bypasses all that computer junk, then I'm in.
it does, everything works as normal but the car doesn't know there is more batteries is all, atm I will be driving at 0 km to emty for about 100 km lol
That would be funny at first... It goes into turtle mode and continues to drive for hours more... Hopefully the turtle mode limits the speed based on the battery voltage at least a bit? I have swapped laptop battery cells and the battery gauge was all messed up but eventually after maybe 10-20 cycles it learned the true capacity.
@@jontscott i will be long range testing it tomorrow.
Yes this bypass the need for CAN BUS manipulations, you only have to use bank of batteries that is same or more than the capacity of your car. while your car will do the charging and discharging or usage as designed by OEM Nissan.
This is my update below:-
ruclips.net/video/OIUjmi1OBAY/видео.html
Crimping can carry more amps than soldering. Also two cables are not the same as 1. It’s impossible to get the lengths exactly the same. But that has more meaning with short cables. These are long enough that 1 extra inches isn’t going to change the resistance much.
I hope the project worked out well.
it worked well, watch part 2.
I am still driving the car today :)
Each one of those welding cables will handle 300Amps! No problem. You don’t need to parallel 2 together! I hope you got all the metal swarf and rust bits out that battery case! Because things could go wrong so BADLY for you! Good luck 🤞
i did get all the crap out, also i am using 2 pos and to neg cause of voltage drop, I want the battery in trunk to supply as much as possible.
Yo dude, are you from Ottawa region ?
Ничего не понятно но очень интересно👍
What is a bms? and a b26mgt?
How much that cost and do you have a list of battery? Thx really cool
Great video. Could you have put the extender cables through the 'fuse mounting' by drilling two holes in the top of the fuse holder? It looks like there may be space?
probably :D
Finally! Thank you for making this video. In the future if you take a few more seconds to really emphasize where inside the battery pack you made the connections I would appreciate it, because I'm definitely gonna copy you at some point. I noticed getting the top cover off took a lotta hammering and grinding. Is this par for the coarse when opening these batteries, or do you think the rust issue was more severe up North where you are on account of salting the roads?
there was 6 security bolts that I didn't have a socket for. so i used a grinder with a cutting wheel to make a flat head and then used a punch and hammer to turn the bolt.
did you watch pt1 ?
@@GoingOffGrid101 This video says Pt1 bud, but yes. I watched Pt1 and 2 in their entirety.
@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions T20 should be use with the security screw. You can buy it from auto store for about $10 to $20 a set.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193080806730
It's quite 'normal' for the cells to smell like lithium, all li-ion packs do pretty much. There's an inevitable tiny amount of solvent and LiOH leakage over time, it has nowhere to escape to and your sense of smell is actually super sensitive to it, so even a small amount over the years will be detectable.
Hey thanks for the post! I could use all the advice you have, I have watch your videos but dont understand canbus and such
I was just watching your video of you long range test and I see you low cell your talking about, and I do not have one as bad as this.
@@GoingOffGrid101 Pretty sure I nailed what's wrong, I sent you an e-mail about it. Regardless you're going to need a CAN bridge to correct the display. We're out of stock at the moment, but once we get stock we need to be in touch about this. The rewiring + CAN bridge should yield a fault-free range-extended car.
@@PowerElectronicsBlog lol looks like its time for another video :D
@@PowerElectronicsBlog I sent you an email, hope you don't mind helping me a little more.
I will like to know the kind of details you are getting from leafSpy before and after the addition of the range extender batteries, this will show us the actual capacity of the additional batteries.
If the car comes up with an error like 'high voltage leakage', just know that you need to insulate your car body groud -12volt from the bank of the extender batteries.
The doubles cable is overkill, just as you found out from the OEM cable used in the car HV connection.
The capacity bar still plays a good role in how the car functions, if you can reset it to full 12 bars you will enjoy the car more.
Sorry, your Nissan leaf no long has a trunk for groceries like mine but a longer range.
Death to the trunk lol, I had 38 Ah before and I'll check it out after a few cycles and see what the car reads. I have no fault codes yet, but I will be going on my first long range test soon. I will be disappointed if I dont get at least 200km on a charge.
How much farther can you drive after the modification?
What battery did you ad and how much did it cost ( or would it cost)
I should be able to go 160km farther then stock.I used a Hyundai ionic 28kwh battery, I got a good deal at $1500 for the battery.
@@GoingOffGrid101 Miles?
@@samusaran7317 i can do around 120 miles or 200 km
Should be interesting how it handles cell capacity increasing like that :-)
yea cars is like WTF LOL
Wouldn't it work better if you parallel the cells directly rather than just paralleling the main rails?
Then the cars battery management computer could deal with balancing and charge logic, and your battery meter will likely be more accurate as well
it would not work cause the Nissan leaf counts the Kwh in and Kwh out, and max out at 22.5 kwh, even if you have 40 kwh or higher the car will stop moving after the car has consumed 22.5 kwh unless you do what I did.
@@GoingOffGrid101 I see, I thought i5 worked like a laptop battery where you can parallel the cells, and then hijack the batterys wear calculation algorithms to force it to learn the new capacity
It looks like you soldered the extension cable lugs onto the cables.
I thought that crimp connections were the recommended method ( with appropriate shrink tubing)
@@brianmacadam4793 your probably right
Can I extend it with normal car batteries like the one found in normal gas cars
Lithium battery needed yes.
How much did it cost? Does the battery charge via CHAdeMO?
hi, I got the battery at a super deal of 1500 bucks, the car no longer charges with the quick charger cause the car knows something is up cause the extender pack keeps putting power into the traction battery even after you turn the car off.
@@GoingOffGrid101 Oh nice, where did you find the battery at this price?
@@gteixeira junk yard
How do you get vehicle insurance after such a modification? Wevwoukd find it hesr impossible to insure the car after such a mod
the same way you get a lifted vehicle insured.
It's plug and play.
Pls do the same for Renault zoe first gen
i think with your boot battery having thicker cable ir might prefer drwing the amps from that befor the stock battery not a bad thing if the boot battery is better condition
its in much better condition, and it works well on my first test.
Is this the 2011
Where i can buy battery like the to my leaf
they are hard to find, you can call you local junk yards and see if they have any.
Once my leaf is out of warranty I would love to do this !!
it was easier then I thought
@@GoingOffGrid101 I have A 2017 leaf and I just lost my first capacity bar. The bms says my amp hours are just above 61 .
Did you guys use any rust reformer on the metal before putting it back .
@@oscer1111 I used fluid film, my car was at 38 Ah :D now im at 116Ah :D
@@GoingOffGrid101 that's excellent. Good job !!
hi mate, get a hydraulic clamper for the lugs. soldering is absolutely not recommended for high current situations. it only sets you back like 50$.
Good idea, iv been wanting one. On that note I use to run a massive 12v 4000AH battery bank and used soldered lugs and never had a problem. But I do want a crimper
If silver solder doesn't hold it your house is gone too.
What kind of batteries are you using?
hyundai ionic
Going Off Grid thanks.
i have scene something like this done before they connected outside the car battery using the socket and plug from a salvaged nissan so all they did was unplug car battery plug in the socket and plug with cables off to the back for a trailer carrying the range extender no need to drop main battery just unplug and plug the adapter in for the extra pack
then you have to sync with the contractors in the stock battery through the can bus :S
@@GoingOffGrid101 good point i wounder how he got around that i wounder if he tapped into the canbus as well
@@1981dasimpson He had a switch which had to be turned off before shutting down the car but one he forget and blew the fuse haha
@@offgridwanabe ah ok i was trying to find his videos but could not remember the name
@@1981dasimpson Leaf Xpack I think
Good video, but at 17:44 you can't just pass the wires through the hole, the sharp (even if filed down) edges of the battery casing WILL rub through the insulation from the motion of the car while driving! Tape the high voltage wires over with some thin sheet metal piece or put the wires in corrugated metal tube.
I have spray foam and silicone around it for protection.
@@GoingOffGrid101 Maybe it will hold but if not it will be catastrophic once that fire starts. All those amps .. plus high voltage arcs really well. The welding cables are thick gauge but the insulation is rated for what, max 48V and you have almost 400V
@@janissuipe7553 it would instantly blow the fuse as well
@@GoingOffGrid101 Do both battery packs have fuses? If yes then you could just get stuck on the road.
@@janissuipe7553 yes both have the original fuses
Fantastic but I cannot find pt2 did it blow up
no there is are part 2 and im still driving it :)
The main leads are small bc the voltage is high on that battery. The higher the voltage, the smaller-gauge wire you need to supply wattage which ofc is a measurement of power. There is a give & take between amperage & voltage. For example, a lower-voltage battery can theoretically supply the same amount of power as a higher-voltage one, it would just take a lot more current & thicker wires. By introducing thicker wires than necessary to that Nissan Leaf's circuit, you're needlessly introducing more resistance therefore more inefficiency & power loss via voltage loss to the system.
A thicker wire has less resistance and thus can carry more current (amperage). Thicker wires add weight and are a bit more difficult to install, especially around sharp corners.
"The battery in this video could kill you if you do not know what you can and can not touch"....... so that's why the unprotected cables are hanging on the ground!
once the cables had power they where taped off with electrical tape. remember I have to put the half way switch in the main battery for the cable to get power, so they never had power till the very end.
Id like to know , Two years on how is this working out ?
I drive it all the time working good so far
@@GoingOffGrid101 Any degradation or loss of mileage with the extender pack ?
@@offgridmaryland no none yet
@@GoingOffGrid101 Im at about 21KWH left on my 2017 Leaf , I been looking into things i can do to boost it up a bit Damn thing lost 9kwh in the first 62k miles
@@offgridmaryland that sucks, it's dangerous but I like the results
Electrical engineer here, this is a really bad idea since in the case of a HV short to chassis the car will have no way of shutting it down safely!
it has a fuse on the car side and battery in the trunk side.
At their new location at this time in Ottawa
What year Leaf is this? I've been looking at he doesn't say anywhere.
this is a 2012
@@GoingOffGrid101 COOL! I'm going to go look at a 2012 SL for sale near me in the next day or so. Any thoughts?
@@Javaman92 are you planing to upgrade the battery?
@@GoingOffGrid101 not really. The farthest I've driven in the last 2 years is 30 miles. And I've just done that 3 times.
@@Javaman92 then the leaf should be great for you. once the batter health bars drop below 8 you loose most of your regen braking. other then that keep a good 12v battery in the car and you should be ok.
Я русский , и пусть на век запомнит мир , что лишь тогда встаю с дивана ,когда услышу слово лиф !
Ooo shit did it fall? Video cut short.
i know you feel this is cool but its not DOT safe and any type of crash can kill your self or others trying to help you , get hit hard in the rear and you have fire or HV to the body of the car as the park is now in a crush zone , slide of the road into water then its flood and HV well get you , and so on , 40 to 80 + miles does not cover the risk you are adding
The stock setup has 400volt wires under the car that are not water proof. Gas cars are the same if they get hit and gas leaks and fire it much more dangerous. I believe the extra 130km I get now is worth the small risk.
Hi , my work canmost , ap 30,40,62 kWh leaf and castom Hv ✋🤝
hi, what product do you sell?
Going Off Grid +79619005921 Rinat (watsap)
Your a tease was looking forward to a start to finish and a 150 mile drive
that next.
@@GoingOffGrid101 when it's all up and running can you test how many amps is being pulled from each cell
the video just ends part way through?
Yes its part 1
This could have been really interesting. In school in America do you study Waffling because you all suffer from this.
Don't ever try this in Germany, they would burry you in German Angst! 🤣😁😂
Good to know
The only issue I see is using the old cells with the new cells. Its gonna ruin the new cells.
Why is that? I thought combining old and new cells is really only a problem when they are in series. Because if they're in series then the older cells will die sooner and knock out the chain. If they're in parallel they're always going to stay at the same voltage and whichever cell is stronger it's just going to contribute more current. That's why all the DIY power walls with the 18650 cells put 80 or 100 or 300 cells in parallel? What is the reason you can't put an older cell in a newer cell in parallel?
@@BenBrand Yes but the problem will be a good cell will charge the bad cell until the good one is to the bad level. Same with lead acid. Adding new batteries in with the old is no good. It may not happen in his case but could happen in theory. May even cause charging problems.
@@frankz1125 This is why I thought he should replace the bad ones while apart, he will still get more but capacity but will be limited to the worst cell and the new BMS may conflict with the Leaf bms and pop the shutdown. Just thinking out loud
@@frankz1125 If the cells are the same voltage when initially connected in parallel, how does the good one charge the bad one? I used to think that especially with lead acid it would be bad to have a good battery and a bad battery in parallel because we know that if they were used separately the bad battery would drop in voltage more than the good battery would under load, but when they're in parallel really they're just going to drop the same because the better battery is going to provide more current than the weaker battery would because it's internal resistance is less but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's charging the weaker battery every time there's a load surge and vice versa?
@@offgridwanabe That would be the way to go. Try for gen 2 cells
I have the instrumentation solution right here: github.com/dalathegreat/Nissan-Leaf-Bruteforce-Upgrade/
6:55 Nissan Leaves
HI , THANK YOU FOR ALL INFORMATION IF CN SEND U US SIMPLE DIAGRAM PLEASE
Stupid and dangerous....for so many reasons u get a fire inside the car gonna be fun u have an accident ....I wouldn't wanna be in that car shouldn't be on the road what happens in a massive rear end smash and roll over hope you don't get a frame leak of high voltage will you tell your insurance company 😁
You dont know the fax, I'm building a frame around it and sealing it to the inside of the car
First.
you win a pin!
@@GoingOffGrid101 nice
@d7j6f1001 Rae interesting! hope i get over 200 and i will be happy.