Hey my clutch pedal is very squeaky when I press pedal down or up. I tend to lose pressure from clutch pedal every morning on cold starts and builds pressure as I drive…I’ve replaced master and slave cylinder twice already in the past year but keeps happening. Any idea what might be happening?? Every time I put new slave+master cyl pedal comes back up but squeak persists. 2008 Honda Accord 2.4L
I don't have an explanation why you lose pressure and then it returns especially since you have already replace the master and slave. Your squeak sounds like it might be a dry pedal pivot bushing. Up under the dash the pedal is bolted to a bracket where it pivots. Normally this pivot has a bushing that can be lubricated with a little spray lubricant like oil or WD40. Someone needs to crawl up under there with a light and a spray can of oil. I'm not sure if there are any plastic shields under your dash that might be blocking the view of the pedal pivot or not. If so, they will have to be removed first.
I have question about old cars - pre year 2000. Some of them manual gearbox cars used "cable operated" clutch. In such systems there's supposed to be air gap between the fingers of the pressure plate and the throwout bearing contact flange. My question - why is this gap decreasing and it needs to be adjusted at given intervals. Is it because the clutch plate wears as i am thinking or is it something else? Second question - Can you estimate amount of clutch plate wear by the height of the clutch pedal? If the owner didn't adjusted the air gap ever , the clutch pedal will be higher because the fingers of the pressure plate contacted and pushed back on the throwout bearing and lever , which through the cable made the clutch pedal higher?
Good questions. On most vehicles a push release clutch mechanism is used. I use a push release design in this video. On cable and mechanic linkage clutch systems there should be a small air gap between the bearing and the pressure plate spring. This gap adds free play to the clutch system that can be felt and measured at the clutch pedal. Free play is required to ensure the pressure plate is applying full spring pressure onto the disk. As the disk wears this gap decreases and starts to apply pressure onto the throwout bearing. This will eventually cause premature wear on the bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate. This is why a cable or mechanical linkage clutch system periodically needs readjustment. Disk wear can not be measured at the pedal because the pedal has a pedal stop bolt that is used to adjust the maximum height of the pedal. The idea is that the clutch and brake pedals are the same height. Just an FYI clutch cables cannot push back from the bearing to the pedal. Cables can not push because a cable is flexible, cables can only pull. I'm going to start working on a video about clutch release systems and pedal assemblies in the near future.
@ yes this is exactly the noise. But my fork is Inside the bell housing so i cant check it. i’ve been asking around and they keep telling me its the throwout bearing but isn’t the the throwout bearing not in contact with the plate when pedal clutch is not pressed?
What kind of vehicle do you have? Year, make and model . If it 's a USA model I can look it up. So hear is the deal. If your vehicle has an old mechanical or cable clutch linkage then the bearing should not be touching the rotating pressure plate when your foot is off the pedal. Hydraulic systems like the one in the video the throw out bearing will be touching and riding on the rotating pressure plate all the time. The throw out bearing uses ball bearing to allow rotational movement on the pressure plate. When bearings go bad they make a moaning, rattling or grumbling type of noise. The noise will always get worse (louder) if the bearing is spun faster or it is placed under additional load or pressure. When the clutch pedal is pressed down even slightly the pressure from the pressure plate springs will add more load to the throwout bearing and it will make more noise if it's bad. This is not what is happening with your vehicle. If it is true what you told me that only 1 inch of pedal movement downward causes the noise to go away then it can't be the throwout bearing because of the laws of physics on how a bearing works and when a worn bearing will make more noise. Now if you told me that your noise goes away but only after the pedal has been press about 3/4 of the way to the floor then that is a different problem but still not the throwout bearing.
@@DrivelineMaster thanks for the reply, the car is a mini Cooper and it has hydraulic system. Yes noise go away after Just applying a Little bit of pressure, like resting the foot to the pedal. Noise appeared after replacing the clutch kit with an oem one. My thoughts are that there’s air in the slave cylinder so it’s not making enough pressure to make a good contact between TOB and pressure plate, do you think it can be? Or maybe the slave went bad, but clutch is engaging nice. I bled the system and noise disappeared for 50 km and making my shifts smoother but it came again, maybe i will bled again. Do you think i’m doing the right Things? Thanks
@@Phil33 If you had included they year of the mini Cooper I could have looked it up in the service information system I have access to. So, you don't want the slave pushing on the pressure plate that would be similar to resting your foot on the pedal and this would cause premature wear on the TO bearing and the pressure plate. If your system (this is where me looking up the service info could help) has a release fork then it will have a pivot ball like in the video. The problem lies with the technician who replaced the clutch. All too often properly lubricating the release fork and pivot ball is overlooked. Either not enough or the wrong lubricant is used and a short while into the life of the clutch replacement the chirping birds appear from lack of lubrication which can be diagnosed by the noise going away with a slight amount of pedal pressure. Additionally all release forks should have a boot to keep road grime and water out of the clutch. If this is missing or torn it can wash away the lubricant from the pivot ball and accelerate the time it takes for the noise to appear after a clutch replacement. Good luck. If you have a release fork this is your problem and the fix is to lubricate that pivot ball and fork.
If I ever got a bearing out of the box that sounded like the second one I would be very hesitant to install it. If it doesn't make noise right away it will before the life of the clutch is ready to be replaced.
Excellent video. Great teaching style and editing. Thank you. Jim in Oregon
That running transmission to simulate a running engine is great teaching.
Quality teaching!
Thank you for sharing.
Hey my clutch pedal is very squeaky when I press pedal down or up. I tend to lose pressure from clutch pedal every morning on cold starts and builds pressure as I drive…I’ve replaced master and slave cylinder twice already in the past year but keeps happening. Any idea what might be happening?? Every time I put new slave+master cyl pedal comes back up but squeak persists. 2008 Honda Accord 2.4L
I don't have an explanation why you lose pressure and then it returns especially since you have already replace the master and slave. Your squeak sounds like it might be a dry pedal pivot bushing. Up under the dash the pedal is bolted to a bracket where it pivots. Normally this pivot has a bushing that can be lubricated with a little spray lubricant like oil or WD40. Someone needs to crawl up under there with a light and a spray can of oil. I'm not sure if there are any plastic shields under your dash that might be blocking the view of the pedal pivot or not. If so, they will have to be removed first.
I have question about old cars - pre year 2000. Some of them manual gearbox cars used "cable operated" clutch. In such systems there's supposed to be air gap between the fingers of the pressure plate and the throwout bearing contact flange. My question - why is this gap decreasing and it needs to be adjusted at given intervals. Is it because the clutch plate wears as i am thinking or is it something else? Second question - Can you estimate amount of clutch plate wear by the height of the clutch pedal? If the owner didn't adjusted the air gap ever , the clutch pedal will be higher because the fingers of the pressure plate contacted and pushed back on the throwout bearing and lever , which through the cable made the clutch pedal higher?
Good questions. On most vehicles a push release clutch mechanism is used. I use a push release design in this video. On cable and mechanic linkage clutch systems there should be a small air gap between the bearing and the pressure plate spring. This gap adds free play to the clutch system that can be felt and measured at the clutch pedal. Free play is required to ensure the pressure plate is applying full spring pressure onto the disk. As the disk wears this gap decreases and starts to apply pressure onto the throwout bearing. This will eventually cause premature wear on the bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate. This is why a cable or mechanical linkage clutch system periodically needs readjustment. Disk wear can not be measured at the pedal because the pedal has a pedal stop bolt that is used to adjust the maximum height of the pedal. The idea is that the clutch and brake pedals are the same height. Just an FYI clutch cables cannot push back from the bearing to the pedal. Cables can not push because a cable is flexible, cables can only pull. I'm going to start working on a video about clutch release systems and pedal assemblies in the near future.
Hello thanks for the video. What if the noise is present when the clutch its not engaged? Mine is noisy until i press the clutch slighlty
Check out this video and see if this is your problem. ruclips.net/video/64O6aZjZ524/видео.htmlsi=JBJqbR8hcrO3PPU7
@ yes this is exactly the noise. But my fork is Inside the bell housing so i cant check it. i’ve been asking around and they keep telling me its the throwout bearing but isn’t the the throwout bearing not in contact with the plate when pedal clutch is not pressed?
What kind of vehicle do you have? Year, make and model . If it 's a USA model I can look it up. So hear is the deal. If your vehicle has an old mechanical or cable clutch linkage then the bearing should not be touching the rotating pressure plate when your foot is off the pedal. Hydraulic systems like the one in the video the throw out bearing will be touching and riding on the rotating pressure plate all the time. The throw out bearing uses ball bearing to allow rotational movement on the pressure plate. When bearings go bad they make a moaning, rattling or grumbling type of noise. The noise will always get worse (louder) if the bearing is spun faster or it is placed under additional load or pressure. When the clutch pedal is pressed down even slightly the pressure from the pressure plate springs will add more load to the throwout bearing and it will make more noise if it's bad. This is not what is happening with your vehicle. If it is true what you told me that only 1 inch of pedal movement downward causes the noise to go away then it can't be the throwout bearing because of the laws of physics on how a bearing works and when a worn bearing will make more noise. Now if you told me that your noise goes away but only after the pedal has been press about 3/4 of the way to the floor then that is a different problem but still not the throwout bearing.
@@DrivelineMaster thanks for the reply, the car is a mini Cooper and it has hydraulic system. Yes noise go away after Just applying a Little bit of pressure, like resting the foot to the pedal. Noise appeared after replacing the clutch kit with an oem one. My thoughts are that there’s air in the slave cylinder so it’s not making enough pressure to make a good contact between TOB and pressure plate, do you think it can be? Or maybe the slave went bad, but clutch is engaging nice. I bled the system and noise disappeared for 50 km and making my shifts smoother but it came again, maybe i will bled again. Do you think i’m doing the right Things? Thanks
@@Phil33 If you had included they year of the mini Cooper I could have looked it up in the service information system I have access to. So, you don't want the slave pushing on the pressure plate that would be similar to resting your foot on the pedal and this would cause premature wear on the TO bearing and the pressure plate. If your system (this is where me looking up the service info could help) has a release fork then it will have a pivot ball like in the video. The problem lies with the technician who replaced the clutch. All too often properly lubricating the release fork and pivot ball is overlooked. Either not enough or the wrong lubricant is used and a short while into the life of the clutch replacement the chirping birds appear from lack of lubrication which can be diagnosed by the noise going away with a slight amount of pedal pressure. Additionally all release forks should have a boot to keep road grime and water out of the clutch. If this is missing or torn it can wash away the lubricant from the pivot ball and accelerate the time it takes for the noise to appear after a clutch replacement. Good luck. If you have a release fork this is your problem and the fix is to lubricate that pivot ball and fork.
Some of the bearings i get make noise out the box like the 2nd one
If I ever got a bearing out of the box that sounded like the second one I would be very hesitant to install it. If it doesn't make noise right away it will before the life of the clutch is ready to be replaced.