Another good diagnosis Max. Interested in your thoughts on changing the pump as you did or changing the entire fuel module (including sender, valving etc). Aftermarket units are fairly cost effective and changing the entire unit removes the risk of a reassembly error and renews other components that have been in the same environment as the pump for the same time. Might the worth the difference in unit cost.
Depending on the type of pump, I would replace the entire module. In this case, this is not a module assembly, simply a pump with a separate sender unit. As I had no trouble with the sender, only the pump was replaced. Inside the pump, it contains a relief valve (for over pressure) and a non-return valve (to stop fuel leak-back when the pump is turned off). So, only the pump needed replacement. But yes, as you said, if it was a module style, generally the entire assembly is replaced. Thanks for your comment. 😉👍
Completely agree in asking the costumer what the vehicle is doing as one can be go up the garden path with incorrect info. Top class basic info for DIY in this situation. If possible, I use a timing light on the plug wires as a quick test.
If you want a good acronym to explain a car requirement to start it's; Fasttec. Fuel Air Spark Timing(crank) Timing(distributor(or in modern cars cam)) Exhaust Compression
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You have a cheeky apprentice.😂
Another great video mate, thanks.
Thanks 👍Yes, she is! 😁
Another good diagnosis Max. Interested in your thoughts on changing the pump as you did or changing the entire fuel module (including sender, valving etc). Aftermarket units are fairly cost effective and changing the entire unit removes the risk of a reassembly error and renews other components that have been in the same environment as the pump for the same time. Might the worth the difference in unit cost.
Depending on the type of pump, I would replace the entire module.
In this case, this is not a module assembly, simply a pump with a separate sender unit. As I had no trouble with the sender, only the pump was replaced. Inside the pump, it contains a relief valve (for over pressure) and a non-return valve (to stop fuel leak-back when the pump is turned off). So, only the pump needed replacement. But yes, as you said, if it was a module style, generally the entire assembly is replaced.
Thanks for your comment. 😉👍
Completely agree in asking the costumer what the vehicle is doing as one can be go up the garden path with incorrect info.
Top class basic info for DIY in this situation. If possible, I use a timing light on the plug wires as a quick test.
Customers can sometimes be one of the greatest obstacles to a good diagnostic path.
Good idea with the timing light 👍
Thanks for your subscription 😊
Hi MM and SJ, interesting to see inside the pump. Thanks for the vid.
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
May i ask what year this is? Just wondering if this all applies to a 1989 Maza 626. You are so helpful, thank you
It looks like the 1989 model has an in-tank pump, so the principles are the same.
@@MiracleMAX thank you so much for your response. You are amazing.
@@donnyrockett7490 Thank you kindly
@@MiracleMAX likewise
If you want a good acronym to explain a car requirement to start it's;
Fasttec.
Fuel
Air
Spark
Timing(crank)
Timing(distributor(or in modern cars cam))
Exhaust
Compression
Nice one 😉👍
Add security system to the list.
@@abdul-kabiralegbe5660 Yes the immobiliser can catch us out