RUclips recommended the gypsy wagon video by @therealgirlinthewoods to me yesterday (never seen her channel before). I watched it, ordered your book, and now I'm here. I'm not sure when I'll get around to building one of these, but it's likely going on my list of projects. 😃
Great! Yes, Girl in the Woods did a fantastic job with her build and I hope that it shows that this can be done by most people and that you don't need to be a professional builder to achieve a good result. Just take it slow and be deliberate. Plus I'm here to help and can answer any specific questions that might arise during the build. Thanks for getting the book. Between the book and the video, you should have a pretty good idea of how to tackle all the various steps of a build like this.
for making those side 2x12's be flush, i'd sand the floor boards, then seal them, then add insulation, then the flooring, THEN add the side 2x12's and that should level out the boards to the steel sides.
That's actually a good idea. I've never insulated the floor...only sealed it to the elements. I'm always worried about losing headroom since I'm a tall guy... 6'3"
Thank you, this is absolutely what I’ve been looking for. I got your book on the way, bought a 6’x10’ utility trailer about 2 months back and now I’ve found your channel 😊 we’re putting on a bay window & a garage. Looking forward to seeing your book. Thank you once again
Thanks so much for getting the book. I think that between the videos and the book 'most' things will be covered. Now, every trailer is going to be a bit different and that's why I didn't do an exact build (i.e. with measurements) but rather one where I outline the steps I'm taking and how you can adapt it to your own personal build. Are you going to do any video on your build? Would love to see what you create. Thanks again for the comment.
@@TinyIndustrial (haha your comment just shows up after you wrote it 3weeks ago WTG RUclips) thought that was strange. We’re going to put on an extra axel that has electric breaks & we’re putting in a wood/coal cook stove, so I believe 2axels we won’t have to worry about weight inside too much. Just making sure both sides have weight distribution correctly done. 😊
Love it! You have a great sense of fun and I like your décor choices. Appreciate the deep dive into the intricacies of pulling a vardo together using familiar materials. Love Roxul too, and I was (vicariously) relieved to see such substantial insulation used for the ceiling. We have virtually the same trailer out back-tho in the 5’ x 12’ version. For my husband’s birthday I tore out and re-did the built-up sides since it’s 30 years old and we use it hard for hauling stuff around the property. I love wood working, tho my expertise is only at “simple Airstream remodel” and “simple chicken coop design/build” level. I fantasize about doing a tiny house build, so it’s really fun to watch someone else actually go to all that work and come out with something nice at the end! We’ll take a look at your book. Thanks!
Thank you so much for the kind words. Yes, insulation is always a good idea. Thanks for checking out my book as well. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you. I want this to be a community and I'm really happy when I get a chance to give back. :)
Thanks for the video, and yes, I purchased your book as well. I liked the gypsy wagons and vardos before they were the "in thing." Just refinished my jayco, and maybe it's time for this project! You did fine on the video, and it's hard to do while you're actually doing the work and shooting footage simultaneously. Thanks again and blessings.
Thanks so much for your comment. I appreciate the kind words. Yes, sometimes when you are doing stuff, you don't really want to be filming and explaining stuff at the same time. You are very right about that.
Great video ! You should do a video on how you got started building these structures . What motivated you , or who motivated you ? This is a very interesting and useful information ! KUDOS ! 🏆🙏
you could also put heavy duty hinges on that piece you cut off of the bed's side closest to the door and it would allow for easier access to under the bed.
Yes, hinges would be good. I usually build the bed platform pretty heavy and not really conducive to easily lifting it. Especially true if you have a mattress on top.
Thanks so much for getting the book. Please drop any questions into the comments here if you run into any issues, please let me know on your build. Just thinking about it or are you planning on moving forward with this?
@TinyIndustrial Thank you for such an awesome book. Lord willing I'll try to start building one in a month from now. I want to use a 12L x 6.5W or a 14ft long trailer. I guess that means I'll have to do a double axle trailer because I have no idea how much the materials will weigh.
@TinyIndustrial I do have a question. I want to bring up the side walls from 4 ft to 5 ft. That would only leave 2 ft for the arc. Would that look weird and not as aesthetically pleasing in your opinion? I can't build higher because my shop door is 10ft exactly. As far as the seams go in the plywood do you just caulk and paint over them or just cover them with trim? Also what do you use to seal the rafters? I know people say cedar is Waterproof but does treated lumber last without sealing it? Also what would you use to reinforce the back wall? L brackets?
Not sure what you mean by "would only leave 2' for the arc". You mean that the total height of the arc is only two feet? That's fine. Even if the arc were only 6" higher in the center than the sides, it's still fine. I don't think that you would run into a situation where that would 'look weird.' Hope that helps.
Im going to attempt a simple wood pop up. Reusing the old gray weathered 2x10 deck boards that were on it. I don't have tools or strong man hands, so when it comes to cutting arches I will find some help. Going to attempt to cut a 2 x 10 with my silky saw today. Lol my son thinks i can do it. I used to cut 30 ft balsam for tipi. But i am an old woman now, so we shall see! Lol @TinyIndustrial
Definitely. I kept the info fairly generic since no two trailers are ever really the same. The general techniques can be applied and modified to different kinds of trailers. Is that the size trailer you have available? I would just make sure that the axle is rated for at least 3500lbs. Some of the wimpier trailers have less load capacity.
I understand everything perfectly except for one part. at 1:46:40, why do you run that 2x3 to attach the wall framing? wouldn't it be more structurally sound to mount the wall framing directly to the big 2x12 below? Thanks so much! I'm going to build my own trailer and then build one of these houses on top at my new home here in Guatemala!
That's a great question. I'm not entirely sure why I did it that way. You can certainly do it the way you propose and have it be find. I think that the main purpose is that with the 2x3 at the bottom of the wall, you have 1) a wider area to attach the exterior/outer wall to. and 2) perhaps more importantly, when you go to attach the interior wall, you have a better contiguous span to attach the bottom of the interior wall to as well. Without it you would just be bridging the empty space between the upright 2x3's. Make sense? Really good question though...but those are the main reasons for it. You can see what I'm talking about at 03:22:20. Imaging if that 2x3 wasn't at the bottom of that interior wall...much harder to attach interior wall material that way if it wasn't there.
String and a pencil for a compass? A long yardstick (maybe make one from plywood) with a screw or bolt for pivot in one end and a hole for a pencil tip at the other end will work more accurately. Also, instead of a pencil, the jigsaw can be mounted at that end for a better arc cut, and very stable, repeatable and also adjustable "not the radius, but the other thing", oh yes the radius. Just kidding!!!. I was gonna buy the book, but you showed the important number and link that I need. Thanks, Chris!!!!!.
@@TinyIndustrial Thinking about it. It looks easy.The planetcalc link is very helpful. I laid out in AutoCAD the numbers from the program and they are very accurate!!!
@@armandosenson2391 I wouldn't say that it's easy, but it is very doable. One step at a time. No rush. You can get through it for sure. Please document the process on RUclips if that's your thing since it can definitely help out others as well.
I wish that I could provide you with some plans. The issue is that no two utility trailers are really the same. If I produce a set of plans, they would be for one specific trailer and the measurements would not apply for a different trailer. That's what I struggle with. Any ideas how I can produce plans given that the trailers are all somewhat different?
@@TinyIndustrial right that is true, I’ve also been considering about doing a tiny house on the foundation and honestly I think a vardo Would look really cool as no cabin
it would also be a good idea to put some Locktite on the ends of those bolts to hold the nuts in place so vibrations from driving down the highway don't eventually work them loose!!!
Yes, she built it according to my book. Hers turned out great and she was so nice to reference my book in the beginning of her build video. It's a great example that it's very doable to achieve a great result. Are you thinking of building one? Have you checked out my book? Link is in the video description.
i would not have cut the 10" off the ends of those boards. that would have made a lovely canopy over the door and could've had a nice support hook put at the corners.
I'm curious about the moisture accumulation in the cealing from the condensation on the aluminum to the insulation and the wood. Ive seen moisture accumulation with that combo. How do you combat that potential?
Yeah, that's a good question. I have never had an issue with that. As with any small space, it's always important to ventilate it as much as possible. Dryer/warmer climates are also advantageous with a small space like this.
Not entirely sure what you mean. The vertical 2x12 attaches to the vertical part of the 90 degree angle on the top edge of the trailer and the horizontal 2x12 attaches to the horizontal part of the right angle on the trailer (via bolts and nuts). Then for good measure I connect the horizontal 2x12 to the vertical one with some construction screws. It's a REALLY secure connection to the trailer that's created in this fashion. I'm not sure if what you are describing would improve on that.
Hi. Sure this was built on a 8x5 utility trailer (or close to it.). Interior feels bigger since I bump out over the wheel wells. That creates a decent amount of interior space for such a small footprint (40 square feet).
I have built one of these with a porch. It was a fold down one that had chains on either side to lower it to the flat position. It could also be folded up. Looked pretty medieval. It's something that can easily be added. Are you looking to build one?
15" is Great, When I had my Camper, I didn't know about the Speed Variation with smaller rim wheels, and I ran the wheels off of it Literally, nobody told me, brand new wheels
Yes, those are limited in what they can handle. Super important to keep track of the the weight the axle can support as well. Be safe out there folks! :)
why not use big sheets of cardboard to make your pattern for the back piece so it can be the one to get the mistakes made on it instead of on the plywood. then once you have the back piece(s) figured out, lay the cardboard onto the plywood, trace it and then cut it out. saves you a lot of time and money!
The issue is that I have never bought two trailers that were the same. They are not built to exact specs...and I only ever purchased them here and there. Creating a template to build more than one only makes sense if you can guarantee that the trailers are the same.
I always build these to spec. With all the bells and whistles it can be as high as $15,000. A shell would be more in the $5-6K range. Always going to be cheaper to build it yourself since half the cost will be labor if you don't.
Yes. The way that I build these they weigh around 2200lbs. Trailer makes up about 800lb of that total weight. You could easily save around 200lb by building a bit more strategically. So figure right around 2000lb for one of these.
Not at all. These weigh around 2100 or so pounds on average. You could cut some more weight with some design modifications. Either way, 2000 lbs is not a lot to tow with a reasonably sized vehicle (always check your vehicles...and hitch's...tow rating). Are you thinking of building one?
@@TinyIndustrialwow just wow. I would have never guessed that heavy!!!! Mine is on track to weigh in at around 600 pounds!!!! But also it os two feet shorter in lenght and height as well.
Yeah, it is. I thought it was part of 'good' video making. I've learned a bit in the interim. I have mostly weened myself off of using music in most of my videos.
@@Paparoxx Fair enough. I'm not sure anybody including myself would want to watch all 4 hours. Think of it as an information resource. You get stuck on your build and you can go try to find that particular section in the video...that's kind of the idea of it.
Hello. I've been laid up for 3 days in the hospital getting fitted with a couple new heart stents and I passed the time with this video. Watched it "end to end" and learned a lot. I can't afford your book but when I get a few extra dollars I'm getting it too. I'm building my own tiny home on wheels or camper whichever term ya like. My design is very very similar because mine is only a 4x8 trailer and I needed at least 5” wide so your design and mine are almost mirrors in that respect. Thanks for all the work you did to show us how it's done. Most the you tubers skip so much that it's hard to visualize the steps. You definitely remedied that with your style of production. The music? I didn't mind it but I gotta say the mechanical/ ac/ dust collection.... All that stuff is definitely a bad distraction but honestly I dunno how you'd fix that and give us a birds eye view of the whole process.... So the juice was absolutely worth the squeeze. Thanks again
Please take my comments as constructive and maybe consider them as possible design improvements. The use of vertical 2 x 12's around the lower section is definitely an overkill, the bottom is already protected by the metal frame and exterior grade plywood, properly weatherized, should be sufficient . The 2 x 12 horizontal wings are also, in my opinion, an overkill, but I think this will be a matter of preference. If used, the vertical studs though can be secured directly to these 2 x 12 wings, and the 2 x 3 horizontal bottom plates can be ditched (another overkill). These wings though, can be built using 3/4 plywood, but then you're going to need the 2 x 3 bottom plates for additional rigidity. The wings can be supported from the bottom by decorative but functional "L" brackets, metal or wood, builder's choice, at the minimum, at least three. Or short metal extensions can be welded for support, but that will require some metalworking skills. There is a lot of weight that can be saved by eliminating these 2 x 12's. The front and back walls need reinforcements, vertically and/or horizontally, as only the plywood sheets are mostly holding it all together to the rest of the shell. The shell, in my opinion should be a stand alone self supporting unit all around prior to adding the plywood walls. Here I will continue using vertical studs from the floor to the roof line, with bottom plates and if possible, top plates, and some horizontal pieces. All four corners can use double 2 x 4's, in L fashion to hold every thing in place. Build it like the code calls for, if you can, to make it roadworthy, especially if you will spend a lot of time driving it all over the place.
I appreciate the comment. Thanks for taking the time. You are absolutely right that I am overbuilding this in some sense. Using the solid wood that low on the unit to me 1)provides more strength 2) more longevity 3) a lower center of gravity for road stability. That said, if you are looking to save weight, there are quite a few ways to cut weight of the unit. My bed platform also tends to be on the heavy side and can also be 'leaned' down to something lighter. Are you looking to build one of these?
just a tip: it would make more sense to start with the end closest to the hitch and get that all secured, THEN start working on the two sides. your way of presenting this is making it much slower and more confusing and risking more mistakes for a beginner following your tutorial.
i think Chris was a beginner too and learning at the same time during this video shoot, that's why it took 4.5 hours. I thought he was talking about pianos when he mentioned "uprights", and how about "not radius but the other thing". He must have come a long way by now, as he's building these for other people. But he did good. A nice project!
Thanks! Yes, this project, as with many I do, are all custom and a 'design on the fly' kind of thing. That's mostly since the trailers are never really the same. The principles apply either way. Also wanted to show people the process vs. specifics around my particular trailer. Take it all with a grain of salt and adapt to your situation.
Sorry to say feller I was really looking forward to checking your build out but by god you talk to much lost interest after an hour best advice do the job instead of talk the job gutted
Yes, it's a long video compilation. Think of it as a reference, like a dictionary. I'm surprised (and grateful) that you watched an hour of it. The info is hopefully there if you are looking for it, but this video tutorial was never intended to be 4 hours of spellbinding entertainment. We have Hollywood for that... It's a supplement to the book that goes with the tutorial. amzn.to/46eUO0a
why aren't you priming the wood before painting it??? that paint is going to start peeling off in a few years without the wood beneath it being primed!!!!
I believe that the product I use for this is an all in one without primer being needed. It's effectively a type of deck paint made to stand up to the elements.
RUclips recommended the gypsy wagon video by @therealgirlinthewoods to me yesterday (never seen her channel before). I watched it, ordered your book, and now I'm here. I'm not sure when I'll get around to building one of these, but it's likely going on my list of projects. 😃
Great! Yes, Girl in the Woods did a fantastic job with her build and I hope that it shows that this can be done by most people and that you don't need to be a professional builder to achieve a good result. Just take it slow and be deliberate. Plus I'm here to help and can answer any specific questions that might arise during the build. Thanks for getting the book. Between the book and the video, you should have a pretty good idea of how to tackle all the various steps of a build like this.
When laying out the door jam it would go faster and easier if you a drywall square. I use it on plywood all the time. Just use it on factory cuts.
for making those side 2x12's be flush, i'd sand the floor boards, then seal them, then add insulation, then the flooring, THEN add the side 2x12's and that should level out the boards to the steel sides.
This makes perfect sense. Will be much easier to install the flooring too when there are no walls in your way. Great idea!!!!
That's actually a good idea. I've never insulated the floor...only sealed it to the elements. I'm always worried about losing headroom since I'm a tall guy... 6'3"
agreed.
Thank you, this is absolutely what I’ve been looking for. I got your book on the way, bought a 6’x10’ utility trailer about 2 months back and now I’ve found your channel 😊 we’re putting on a bay window & a garage. Looking forward to seeing your book. Thank you once again
Thanks so much for getting the book. I think that between the videos and the book 'most' things will be covered. Now, every trailer is going to be a bit different and that's why I didn't do an exact build (i.e. with measurements) but rather one where I outline the steps I'm taking and how you can adapt it to your own personal build. Are you going to do any video on your build? Would love to see what you create. Thanks again for the comment.
@@TinyIndustrial (haha your comment just shows up after you wrote it 3weeks ago WTG RUclips) thought that was strange.
We’re going to put on an extra axel that has electric breaks & we’re putting in a wood/coal cook stove, so I believe 2axels we won’t have to worry about weight inside too much. Just making sure both sides have weight distribution correctly done. 😊
@@TinyIndustrial BTW love, love, love Your Book, Thank You Once Again
Glad you are thinking about weight distribution. Everyone should.
Thanks so much. If you haven't left a review for the book (Amazon?) would greatly appreciate you leaving one if you like it!
Love it! You have a great sense of fun and I like your décor choices. Appreciate the deep dive into the intricacies of pulling a vardo together using familiar materials. Love Roxul too, and I was (vicariously) relieved to see such substantial insulation used for the ceiling. We have virtually the same trailer out back-tho in the 5’ x 12’ version. For my husband’s birthday I tore out and re-did the built-up sides since it’s 30 years old and we use it hard for hauling stuff around the property. I love wood working, tho my expertise is only at “simple Airstream remodel” and “simple chicken coop design/build” level. I fantasize about doing a tiny house build, so it’s really fun to watch someone else actually go to all that work and come out with something nice at the end! We’ll take a look at your book. Thanks!
Thank you so much for the kind words. Yes, insulation is always a good idea. Thanks for checking out my book as well. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you. I want this to be a community and I'm really happy when I get a chance to give back. :)
Thanks for the video, and yes, I purchased your book as well.
I liked the gypsy wagons and vardos before they were the "in thing."
Just refinished my jayco, and maybe it's time for this project!
You did fine on the video, and it's hard to do while you're actually doing the work and shooting footage simultaneously.
Thanks again and blessings.
Thanks so much for your comment. I appreciate the kind words. Yes, sometimes when you are doing stuff, you don't really want to be filming and explaining stuff at the same time. You are very right about that.
Dude you're such a legend. thank you so much for this video!
Wow! That's so kind. I really appreciate you and your comment. Are you building one of these?
Great video ! You should do a video on how you got started building these structures . What motivated you , or who motivated you ? This is a very interesting and useful information ! KUDOS ! 🏆🙏
Thanks! If you want a bit more backstory, may I suggest the book to go along with the video series: amzn.to/3RBwdxv
you could also put heavy duty hinges on that piece you cut off of the bed's side closest to the door and it would allow for easier access to under the bed.
Yes, hinges would be good. I usually build the bed platform pretty heavy and not really conducive to easily lifting it. Especially true if you have a mattress on top.
I just got your paperback book in the mail. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge 🙏
Thanks so much for getting the book. Please drop any questions into the comments here if you run into any issues, please let me know on your build. Just thinking about it or are you planning on moving forward with this?
@TinyIndustrial Thank you for such an awesome book. Lord willing I'll try to start building one in a month from now. I want to use a 12L x 6.5W or a 14ft long trailer. I guess that means I'll have to do a double axle trailer because I have no idea how much the materials will weigh.
@TinyIndustrial I do have a question. I want to bring up the side walls from 4 ft to 5 ft. That would only leave 2 ft for the arc. Would that look weird and not as aesthetically pleasing in your opinion? I can't build higher because my shop door is 10ft exactly. As far as the seams go in the plywood do you just caulk and paint over them or just cover them with trim?
Also what do you use to seal the rafters? I know people say cedar is Waterproof but does treated lumber last without sealing it?
Also what would you use to reinforce the back wall? L brackets?
Not sure what you mean by "would only leave 2' for the arc". You mean that the total height of the arc is only two feet? That's fine. Even if the arc were only 6" higher in the center than the sides, it's still fine. I don't think that you would run into a situation where that would 'look weird.' Hope that helps.
@TinyIndustrial yes that helps thanks.
Gosh golly gee... you are a wonderful teacher. ❤❤❤
I love this project. I want to build one! Ill paint em! Lol
Thank you! I appreciate your kind words. That's why I make these videos. You going to build one of these?
Im going to attempt a simple wood pop up. Reusing the old gray weathered 2x10 deck boards that were on it. I don't have tools or strong man hands, so when it comes to cutting arches I will find some help. Going to attempt to cut a 2 x 10 with my silky saw today. Lol my son thinks i can do it. I used to cut 30 ft balsam for tipi. But i am an old woman now, so we shall see! Lol @TinyIndustrial
Could this build be used on a 7x14 trailer with adjustments?
That size will give you a mansion of a gypsy camper ! 👍
Definitely. I kept the info fairly generic since no two trailers are ever really the same. The general techniques can be applied and modified to different kinds of trailers. Is that the size trailer you have available? I would just make sure that the axle is rated for at least 3500lbs. Some of the wimpier trailers have less load capacity.
That's true. Would be a 'big' one. :)
Thank you for your answer. That is the trailer size that I'm looking at.
Nice!
I understand everything perfectly except for one part. at 1:46:40, why do you run that 2x3 to attach the wall framing? wouldn't it be more structurally sound to mount the wall framing directly to the big 2x12 below? Thanks so much! I'm going to build my own trailer and then build one of these houses on top at my new home here in Guatemala!
That's a great question. I'm not entirely sure why I did it that way. You can certainly do it the way you propose and have it be find. I think that the main purpose is that with the 2x3 at the bottom of the wall, you have 1) a wider area to attach the exterior/outer wall to. and 2) perhaps more importantly, when you go to attach the interior wall, you have a better contiguous span to attach the bottom of the interior wall to as well. Without it you would just be bridging the empty space between the upright 2x3's. Make sense? Really good question though...but those are the main reasons for it. You can see what I'm talking about at 03:22:20. Imaging if that 2x3 wasn't at the bottom of that interior wall...much harder to attach interior wall material that way if it wasn't there.
String and a pencil for a compass? A long yardstick (maybe make one from plywood) with a screw or bolt for pivot in one end and a hole for a pencil tip at the other end will work more accurately. Also, instead of a pencil, the jigsaw can be mounted at that end for a better arc cut, and very stable, repeatable and also adjustable "not the radius, but the other thing", oh yes the radius. Just kidding!!!. I was gonna buy the book, but you showed the important number and link that I need. Thanks, Chris!!!!!.
Yes, true. A piece of wood would likely be a bit better than a string. Glad the video was helpful for you. I take it you are building one of these?
@@TinyIndustrial Thinking about it. It looks easy.The planetcalc link is very helpful. I laid out in AutoCAD the numbers from the program and they are very accurate!!!
@@armandosenson2391 I wouldn't say that it's easy, but it is very doable. One step at a time. No rush. You can get through it for sure. Please document the process on RUclips if that's your thing since it can definitely help out others as well.
Looks great
Thanks! Yes, these are fun to build. Are you thinking of building one?
@TinyIndustrial thinking of building one they look great
Glad to hear it!
I’ve been searching online for a set of plans, I honestly would love to build my own vardo
I wish that I could provide you with some plans. The issue is that no two utility trailers are really the same. If I produce a set of plans, they would be for one specific trailer and the measurements would not apply for a different trailer. That's what I struggle with. Any ideas how I can produce plans given that the trailers are all somewhat different?
@@TinyIndustrial right that is true, I’ve also been considering about doing a tiny house on the foundation and honestly I think a vardo Would look really cool as no cabin
it would also be a good idea to put some Locktite on the ends of those bolts to hold the nuts in place so vibrations from driving down the highway don't eventually work them loose!!!
Good idea. I often use split washers to accomplish that. You can parially strip the threads as well. Thanks for the comment. Are you building one?
WOW this VARDO WAGON LOOKS JUST LIKE "GIRL IN THE WOODS", VLOG EXACTLY
Yes, she built it according to my book. Hers turned out great and she was so nice to reference my book in the beginning of her build video. It's a great example that it's very doable to achieve a great result. Are you thinking of building one? Have you checked out my book? Link is in the video description.
i would not have cut the 10" off the ends of those boards. that would have made a lovely canopy over the door and could've had a nice support hook put at the corners.
I don't follow. There is a roof extension over the door. What are you suggesting?
I'm curious about the moisture accumulation in the cealing from the condensation on the aluminum to the insulation and the wood. Ive seen moisture accumulation with that combo. How do you combat that potential?
Yeah, that's a good question. I have never had an issue with that. As with any small space, it's always important to ventilate it as much as possible. Dryer/warmer climates are also advantageous with a small space like this.
When boxing in with the 2x12 why not just put a cleat on top of the board when installing flush with the angle iron?
Not entirely sure what you mean. The vertical 2x12 attaches to the vertical part of the 90 degree angle on the top edge of the trailer and the horizontal 2x12 attaches to the horizontal part of the right angle on the trailer (via bolts and nuts). Then for good measure I connect the horizontal 2x12 to the vertical one with some construction screws. It's a REALLY secure connection to the trailer that's created in this fashion. I'm not sure if what you are describing would improve on that.
I’m curious to replace the axle and tires with those separate torsion axles?
Sure you could do that. I’m not sure it would be worth the effort though. What benefit would you seek to gain?
Hello! Can you tell me what the length and width of the camper is?Thank you in advance!
Hi. Sure this was built on a 8x5 utility trailer (or close to it.). Interior feels bigger since I bump out over the wheel wells. That creates a decent amount of interior space for such a small footprint (40 square feet).
You should leave them hang out the back to give you a smalll porch
I have built one of these with a porch. It was a fold down one that had chains on either side to lower it to the flat position. It could also be folded up. Looked pretty medieval. It's something that can easily be added. Are you looking to build one?
15" is Great, When I had my Camper, I didn't know about the Speed Variation with smaller rim wheels, and I ran the wheels off of it Literally, nobody told me, brand new wheels
Yes, those are limited in what they can handle. Super important to keep track of the the weight the axle can support as well. Be safe out there folks! :)
why not use big sheets of cardboard to make your pattern for the back piece so it can be the one to get the mistakes made on it instead of on the plywood. then once you have the back piece(s) figured out, lay the cardboard onto the plywood, trace it and then cut it out. saves you a lot of time and money!
The issue is that I have never bought two trailers that were the same. They are not built to exact specs...and I only ever purchased them here and there. Creating a template to build more than one only makes sense if you can guarantee that the trailers are the same.
What is your selling price for this Tiny House?
I always build these to spec. With all the bells and whistles it can be as high as $15,000. A shell would be more in the $5-6K range. Always going to be cheaper to build it yourself since half the cost will be labor if you don't.
Cool build did you weigh it?
Yes. The way that I build these they weigh around 2200lbs. Trailer makes up about 800lb of that total weight. You could easily save around 200lb by building a bit more strategically. So figure right around 2000lb for one of these.
What size is the trailer
This build was done on a 5'x8' utility trailer I believe (or close to it).
Oops i commented and cant find it to erase it. I thought it was a 5x10 no matter tho the design is what counts.
Is it heavy to pull?
Not at all. These weigh around 2100 or so pounds on average. You could cut some more weight with some design modifications. Either way, 2000 lbs is not a lot to tow with a reasonably sized vehicle (always check your vehicles...and hitch's...tow rating). Are you thinking of building one?
@@TinyIndustrialwow just wow. I would have never guessed that heavy!!!! Mine is on track to weigh in at around 600 pounds!!!! But also it os two feet shorter in lenght and height as well.
The background music is irritating.
Yeah, it is. I thought it was part of 'good' video making. I've learned a bit in the interim. I have mostly weened myself off of using music in most of my videos.
I bailed early too. I thot the whole presentation was a drag.
@@Paparoxx Fair enough. I'm not sure anybody including myself would want to watch all 4 hours. Think of it as an information resource. You get stuck on your build and you can go try to find that particular section in the video...that's kind of the idea of it.
Hello. I've been laid up for 3 days in the hospital getting fitted with a couple new heart stents and I passed the time with this video. Watched it "end to end" and learned a lot. I can't afford your book but when I get a few extra dollars I'm getting it too. I'm building my own tiny home on wheels or camper whichever term ya like. My design is very very similar because mine is only a 4x8 trailer and I needed at least 5” wide so your design and mine are almost mirrors in that respect. Thanks for all the work you did to show us how it's done. Most the you tubers skip so much that it's hard to visualize the steps. You definitely remedied that with your style of production.
The music? I didn't mind it but I gotta say the mechanical/ ac/ dust collection.... All that stuff is definitely a bad distraction but honestly I dunno how you'd fix that and give us a birds eye view of the whole process.... So the juice was absolutely worth the squeeze. Thanks again
size ?
Interior is about 50 square feet (floor). About 8' wide. Roughly 10' long with overhang.
Please take my comments as constructive and maybe consider them as possible design improvements. The use of vertical 2 x 12's around the lower section is definitely an overkill, the bottom is already protected by the metal frame and exterior grade plywood, properly weatherized, should be sufficient . The 2 x 12 horizontal wings are also, in my opinion, an overkill, but I think this will be a matter of preference. If used, the vertical studs though can be secured directly to these 2 x 12 wings, and the 2 x 3 horizontal bottom plates can be ditched (another overkill). These wings though, can be built using 3/4 plywood, but then you're going to need the 2 x 3 bottom plates for additional rigidity. The wings can be supported from the bottom by decorative but functional "L" brackets, metal or wood, builder's choice, at the minimum, at least three. Or short metal extensions can be welded for support, but that will require some metalworking skills. There is a lot of weight that can be saved by eliminating these 2 x 12's. The front and back walls need reinforcements, vertically and/or horizontally, as only the plywood sheets are mostly holding it all together to the rest of the shell. The shell, in my opinion should be a stand alone self supporting unit all around prior to adding the plywood walls. Here I will continue using vertical studs from the floor to the roof line, with bottom plates and if possible, top plates, and some horizontal pieces. All four corners can use double 2 x 4's, in L fashion to hold every thing in place. Build it like the code calls for, if you can, to make it roadworthy, especially if you will spend a lot of time driving it all over the place.
I appreciate the comment. Thanks for taking the time. You are absolutely right that I am overbuilding this in some sense. Using the solid wood that low on the unit to me 1)provides more strength 2) more longevity 3) a lower center of gravity for road stability. That said, if you are looking to save weight, there are quite a few ways to cut weight of the unit. My bed platform also tends to be on the heavy side and can also be 'leaned' down to something lighter. Are you looking to build one of these?
just a tip: it would make more sense to start with the end closest to the hitch and get that all secured, THEN start working on the two sides. your way of presenting this is making it much slower and more confusing and risking more mistakes for a beginner following your tutorial.
i think Chris was a beginner too and learning at the same time during this video shoot, that's why it took 4.5 hours. I thought he was talking about pianos when he mentioned "uprights", and how about "not radius but the other thing". He must have come a long way by now, as he's building these for other people. But he did good. A nice project!
Not sure I follow. I do the front and back and then connect with the roofing beams. Seems to make sense to do it this way and then add the walls, no?
Thanks! Yes, this project, as with many I do, are all custom and a 'design on the fly' kind of thing. That's mostly since the trailers are never really the same. The principles apply either way. Also wanted to show people the process vs. specifics around my particular trailer. Take it all with a grain of salt and adapt to your situation.
I dunno why your video wont take my comments so i give up. Nice build, later.
It took this comment! Thanks for commenting. Glad that you liked the build. Thanks!
Sorry to say feller I was really looking forward to checking your build out but by god you talk to much lost interest after an hour best advice do the job instead of talk the job gutted
Yes, it's a long video compilation. Think of it as a reference, like a dictionary. I'm surprised (and grateful) that you watched an hour of it. The info is hopefully there if you are looking for it, but this video tutorial was never intended to be 4 hours of spellbinding entertainment. We have Hollywood for that... It's a supplement to the book that goes with the tutorial. amzn.to/46eUO0a
why aren't you priming the wood before painting it??? that paint is going to start peeling off in a few years without the wood beneath it being primed!!!!
I believe that the product I use for this is an all in one without primer being needed. It's effectively a type of deck paint made to stand up to the elements.
Modern paint has all but eliminated primer in '24
*Promo sm*
Yay! Glad you like it.
Think you could say the word "trailer" a few more times? We haven't heard that enough yet.
Trailer, trailer, trailer. Hey, it's built on a trailer. Worth mentioning more than once.
Talks a lot says not much
Ok. I'll keep my response to your comment short in that case...