HOW (AND WHY): CHANGING THE SACRIFICIAL ANODE IN YOUR HOT WATER TANK
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2021
- THIS IS THE INFORMATION THAT TANK SELLERS DON'T WANT YOU TO KNOW: Changing the SACRIFICIAL ANODE ROD in your hot water tank can extend its life by many, many years beyond its rated warranty! Most stores are happy to sell you a new tank as often as possible instead of schooling you on how to make your tank last longer.This procedure will keep them waiting many more years for your hard-earned money! Here's the step-by-step process for changing the anode. (These rods are available at most hardware stores for about $20).
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If you only drain a little water from the tank, the weight of the water will help stabilize the tank for anode removal. Then after anode install, you can drain, flush, whatever. For those of you wondering how much to drain. You can use a bucket to catch the initial drain amount. A 5 gallon bucket would be fine for a 30 gallon tank. The weight of water left in tank really helps.
That's a great idea, especially since one gallon of water weighs 10.4 lbs. Leaving a nearly full tank of water would make removing the anode easier. Often, tanks are installed right on the floor making it impossible to put a catchment bucket under the drain but a siphoning drill pump or the like could be used to drain down the tank from the anode fitting. Thank you for this information and for commenting!
when does a gal of h20 weigh 10.4 lbs???@@EverydayProjects
Only video I've seen that shows using multimeter to test continuity between the rod and tank. It's so smart that it should be in every video.
Thanks!
@@EverydayProjectsWhat would result in getting a false test? Never heard of that step.
@@backagain5216Someone wrote in the comments that the multimeter test is irrelevant because the presence of the dissimilar metal immersed in the water conducts the necessary exchange between the metals to protect the tank. Apparently, there is no continuity test required. Who knows.
You're like a neighbor that everyone should have, but better!
Thank you very much! That’s the nicest comment anybody has made. I try to share my skills and adventures. I’m glad you find my channel content useful and hopefully, entertaining!
I love the continuity check at the end. That is next level.
Pick up a Harbor Freight electric impact driver to break loose the 1 1/16" anode nut and never look back.
I aim to please so I thought to show that the anode was indeed electrically connected to the tank. An impact driver would make removal much easier, you're right. Thanks for watching!
That's exactly what I ended up doing. To be safe, get a 1 1/16" impact socket (don't use a regular socket, which could shatter). I got mine from Lowe's.
Thanks man…nice work
Thanks for showing the foam removal, I expected it to be obvious but both holes were covered in foam and I didn't want to start tearing into them without knowing which one.
Glad I could help!
BRAVISSIMO :) ASPETTO IL PROSSIMO VIDEO
Awesome job keep doing what you do, you are an awesome human being ok all day long just for
Thank you! I'm glad my video has helped you.
As a plumber never changed theses out knowing that life span of water heater last 10yrs plus but a good maintenance for any WH nicely done 👍
Thanks...I have had a tank last more than 20 years by changing the anode a few times. It works but depends on other conditions: minerals in water, amount of use of tank: Busy house vs. cottage seldom used, etc. Thanks for your comment and input. It is good to have comments in here from real plumbers like yourself.
bravissimo amico :) video molto interessante, ti seguirò :) buona giornata e a presto
The anode does not have to make electrical contact with the water heater to work. The chemical oxidation will still occur in the aluminum first. There is no circuit that needs to be completed as it's typically just chlorine in the water oxidizing the metal. I'm a chemist.
Good to know. Thanks
I just changed mine three days ago on a 6 1/2 year old 50 gal Platinum Pro Series Rheem gas heater. I tried a couple of months ago using my 1/2" drive Harbor Freight Earthquake impact wrench with 1/2" hoses and fittings to a 30 gallon compressor (with 1/4" regulator) with no luck. Granted though, it was a long hose run back to the garage. It also got its butt handed to it by the infamous Honda 6 cylinder J7 engine crankshaft bolt last year. PB Blaster didn't help either. I bought a Teckton 3/4" drive 40" breaker bar at that time and bounced up and down on the wrench with my 200 lbs and finally broke that crank bolt loose with a loud bang. So, I figured 'The Beast" as I call it could handle a measly anode rod if I could keep the tank from spinning. We struggled with the full tank trying to spin and still couldn't break it. Though I didn't want to, I sprayed some PB Blaster on the bolt head and let it sit for half an hour and then soaked up the extra with a paper towel. Tried again and it broke loose. I think it was the PB that helped loosen it. Even after 6.5 years, the rod looked ratty but still had about 30% of the Mg still on it and only 1.5 inches of bare rod showing at the top so I got it soon enough I think/hope. I started to use my Rectoseal 5 (the good stuff!) pipe sealant but its only guaranteed to seal immediately up to 100 psi. Not knowing my pressure, and not wanting to wait 48 hours, I used quality Teflon tape instead. It doesn't matter which you use anyway because the threads cut through the tape, and anyway, the bolt is tapered on the bottom below the bottom thread and that sits in contact with a tapered seat made into the tank-100% metal to metal contact. By the way, the factory anode didn't appear to have any kind of sealant at all.
Sounds like you got the full adventure out of the anode change 😀You’re all set now for several more years. They can be really tight and difficult to remove. Good on you for your persistence!
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Impact gun worked great.
That's a great idea.
Make sure you check for leaks before inserting insulation and the plastic cap.
Good tip, thanks
during removal when not enough clearance to ceiling, cut old anode into pieces and install a new sausage link anode...!
Exactly! They are good for tight spots if you can find them!
Impact driver is your best friend........
Yes it would be. Thanks
Good day eh!!! Oh Oh... Now I'm in trouble,. I have 2 electric 20 gallon hot water heaters here at the camp. One is 20 years old the other is 15 years old. I haven't changed the anode in either tank. So you know what's going to happen now eh. Oh well. Nice explanation of why we need to change these anodes. In my case though it was "if it works, don't fix it." LOL Take care!!!
Sometimes you'll be lucky and find that the factory anode is still intact to some degree. Even if it isn't, and all you have left is the threaded cap, installing an anode may still extend their life. That or you can just sit back and wait for the tank to burst! haha Can you name a more exciting way to spend a Saturday night than waiting to see if your hot water tank is going to explode? I can't. But with the long, cold winters in Nova Scotia, a guy needs some variety...watching TV will seem dull after this!
@@EverydayProjects There's always RUclips to watch!! That sure kills a couple, of hours in a hurry!!!
@@EverydayProjects If he got 20 years out of the thing, I would say he got his moneys worth. Just proactively replace and move on to the next project..
@@JackRussell021 Damage is probably done since the original anode would have decayed into uselessness at about (or before) the 5 year mark.
@@EverydayProjects Yeah, sorry - I was thinking in terms of just proactively replacing the entire water heater and not even bother with the anode..
I have 2 anodes.They wouldn't budge however a rattle gun made easy work of it.
That's a good idea. I'll have to try that next time.
All that in flip flops 😳 👍
I enjoy the warm weather when it's here so--shorts and flip flops most days Haha (I have hurt myself a few times with this attire so it's not recommended). Thanks for watching !
On draining the tank (just for the anode replacement; not part of a tank flush), you need to do it just enough to match the displacement of the replacement anode rod. I initially didn't do do any draining on a tank. That anode rod was down to the wire support (ie. completely worn away). When I went to put the replacement anode it, since it was larger, it displaced more water. I had to drain enough so that I could insert the new rod without it overflowing any water.
Also, while some water heaters have a separate isolated anode rod (like here), others have it as part of the hot or cold water inlet. So the process to remove it is slightly different (you might have to use a wrench on it; not sure if you can get a socket+impact gun) over that.
I like the new, segmented anodes too, that allow you to install a new anode when there is very little access space above the tank. The segments are hung on a wire and they bend to insert/remove from the tank. Always another way to do things. Thanks for your comment. Consider subscribing? It's Free. Thanks
@@EverydayProjects I actually had to use that exact type for the replacement anode! Needed to take the last segment off so it fit properly in the tank (I assume you don't want it touching or resting on the bottom of the tank). Unfortunately, I won't get to see how well it worked, as a few months after I replaced it, I decided to buy a new Rheem heat pump hot water heater. [Replacing that anode will be a PITA!]
Heat pump heater is the way to go! I have installed several Senville heat pumps for air conditioning/heating and they are great. Available direct from Senville or on Amazon or Ebay. In fact, I'm installing two units in the next few weeks. Video to follow.@@jwhite4
I couldn't get the thing loose with a breaker bar - highly recommend an impact wrench of some sort to make the job a lot easier.
The factory- installed anodes are REALLY tight! Some recommend that the tank stay full of water to aid in preventing the tank spinning while loosening. Sounds like you got a workout at least.
@@EverydayProjectsHave to believe using an impact wrench might crack something. I like your use of a bar or pipe between input and output pipes better. Of course that’s easy to say when you are on the larger size and have the reach and heft to wrestle it yourself.
@@noelnicholls1894 The factory installed rod is very tight. I managed it with just a bar but any suggestions as to how to remove it are welcomed. I don't know about an impact gun-haven't tried that. Maybe it would work or maybe cause damage?? Thanks for your input and suggestions. Take care
I bought an impact wrench and still couldn’t get it out!
@@EverydayProjectsI bought an impact wrench after using a 3’ pipe cheater bar on my socket wrench. Still didn’t loosen it. I’m thankful that I didn’t damage the tank!
My water heater has got to be 10 years old give or take. It's sort of a half pint thing for a trailer home or maybe a large RV. It runs on 110VAC. Would that likely be a steel tank as well? I'd better get on it or maybe just swap it out and keep up with this on the new one.
If it's an RV water heater it is probably made from aluminum. They sell zinc anode rods specifically for RV tanks (they are only about 8 inches long. Either way, you can drain the tank and look for the head of the anode rod. It will be somewhere between 7/8" and 1 1/16" head on it.
IF ITS BEEN EATING ALL AWAY IS IT TOLATE TO CHANGE MY TANK IS 18 YEARS OLD NEVER BEEN FLUSHED OR ANODE CHANGED YOUR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
If the tank hasn't started to leak, you're still good. Change the anode (it will probably be all gone, but that's OK). The original anode probably protected the tank for many years so it may only have been all consumed withing the last few years. Good Luck!
Do you know if the powered electric anode rods are worth using?
From what I've read, the powered anodes offer some of the best protection available. I have not used them but they're on the list for next time.
What if i have recycled segments of plain magnesium rod. How would i tie them together and add a threaded section at top to make my own anode rod. Any ideas?
The anode works by being electrically-connected to the steel body of the tank and by being "Less Noble" that the steel, in that it will corrode before the steel. All the segments would have to be joined together using a cable or rod that won't corrode before they do. Test for continuity between the joined pieces and the steel of the tank. If they are shown to be in continuity, they should corrode before the tank does. Electrically- connected does not mean that they pass electricity between them. It means that they will conduct the cathodic (reaction) currents that lead to one metal dissolving before another, which is the desired effect of installing a sacrificial anode.
@@EverydayProjects so. Brass screws and brass cable. Won't corrode , right? And I guess I can somehow find a threaded top and screw that on with brass too.
Can a 100 liter anode work on a 150 liter geyser?
It should be OK. Just make sure to check it within a year or two and replace it before it is depleted.
What is the insulation material you are using at the end? How is it called and where to buy? Is reusable? Thanks
It's just rock wool insulation. It used to be called ROXUL. It is made from lava rock so it is flame-proof. I just grabbed a handfull out of my attic. It can be reused, sure.
@@EverydayProjects thanks! I ended up using insulation material from the basement wall.
Full marks for your inventiveness. A+++@@fabitamas
how many years of that rod, did not look bad
I bought this tank used and apparently, it wasn't used much in the years before I bought it. I was going to change the anode anyway before installing the tank so I at least started with a new rod.
I would have kept that rod in there and waited another year.
Perhaps, a good call to wait another year. It still had some life left in it for sure. This was a tank that I'd bought used and I wanted to start it's new life with a new anode. Good point, though. If there's still life in your anode, don't change it. Thank you.
I love the thoroughness. Do you really need to drain it? Can I just let off the pressure by maybe taking a shower?
If you can drop the level so that water doesn't come out the hole for the anode, that would be sufficient, but it is still a good idea to flush out the tank once in a while to get sediments out. Also, remember that taking a shower won't drain down the tank since it is a closed system with cold water fed in and hot water leaving in the same proportions. You could just turn off the supply water, open a few taps in the house, turn off power, then change the anode. Some water may come out of the hole but nothing too much to worry about--keep a towel handy. Good Luck!
@@EverydayProjects Yeah, I meant after closing the input, but I realized it would be a cold shower since I let it cool down. Maybe I should turn it off before morning showers, then use all that how water so it doesn't get wasted, then close the input, then run something for a minute to lose a gallon or so. Does that sound good? My only concern is whether that creates a vacuum. Does that create a vacuum? I mean using water with the input shut off. I get that's sort of what you're doing when you're draining it, but it seems easier for bubbles to go up the drain into the tank than up through the sink into the tank. Maybe I should stop being clever and just drain it a bit like a normal person.
@@mitchjohnson4714 The only water you'll be getting out of the hot taps once the inlet to the hot water tank is closed, is the water under pressure which will be bled down quickly. There won't be much water taken from the tank, just a bit from the lines. You could turn off power to the tank the night before because the water will stay hot (warm) for hours. Good Luck.
@@EverydayProjects Thanks. Is that because it would just become a vacuum really quickly?
So here's what I'm thinking. Turn off the heater, THEN morning showers, then wait till evening and it's cooled completely. Then turn off the input and depressurize. Then change anode.
What do you think? It lets me use that hot water up.
@@mitchjohnson4714 You need more to do with your life, man. Go climb a mountain. Everest expeditions are cheaper than ever. Or take up a hobby. But just get that anode change behind you, whatever method you choose. I see a world of opportunities opening up for you once its done. LOL 🤣
Sooooooo...... I haven't changed mine since I got a new Rheem gas water 5 years ago. Considering there was only a 3-year warranty on this thing should I even bother doing it now ?
Edit: that foam removal squeaky noise was killing my ears. 😆
If the rod is so tight I don't see how you can remove it without shifting the entire tank and possibly breaking all the pipes that connect everything together.
It's definitely worth the while to change the rod even though the tank is 5 years old. Yes, they are screwed in tight at the factory but with some effort and maybe someone to help, it can be done. Even the cost to pay a technician (or a handyman) to change the rod is less expensive than buying a new tank prematurley. Best wishes.
100+ bucks for a rod. Damn
They shouldn’t cost that much. I can buy them for about $30. Maybe they’ve gone up!!!! Ouch! Shop around, somebody will have them for less. Thanks for watching.
@@EverydayProjects ok. Ended up paying 60Au$ about40us I guess.
Why don’t they just make tanks so they don’t corrode by using stainless steel or some other material
Good question. I guess it comes down to price and profit. Stamped-steel tanks are thin and cheap to make. Also, if tanks lasted forever, the stores would never sell you another one and we all know that they'd like to sell you a new one every few years (just like car manufacturers won't make a vehicle that never rusts!). Thanks for commenting and watching!@
@@EverydayProjects thanks and see your point. It’s understandable and wonder if there’s still an alternative such as an industrial or commercial system available.
Changing the anode is your best insurance for longer tank life. There are better tanks, like the ones you mention but they probably aren't found in Big Box Stores. Contact a specialty plumbing shop to have one ordered, if you really feel you need one , but they will be expensive. Best wishes!@@searchandsave142