*Phenomenal portaband. Worth the wait in replacing my stolen previous model **MyBest.Tools** Variable speed, with an adjustable governor, adjustable shoe, and locking articulating forward handle. It's beefy, but feels just incredibly well built and solid, will eat through strut, emt, rigid, all thread, whatever, all day.*
I have had one of these for about 5 years now, it is an amazing tool when you get to grips with it. As mentioned in video speed is not always best for sure. We had 1½" studs to cut out of equipment to be dismantled on site last year, an air powered reciprocating saw took 4 hrs to cut 6 bolts, lost count of the blades we went through. I talked the Supervisor into changing the permit to use a battery saw. Mine cut the remaining 14 bolts in 35 minutes with one saw band still good at the end. These are superb bits of kit.
The best way I have found to keep the blade from wondering is to keep a slight upward pressure on the bandsaw when cutting. Even letting the weight of the tool do the work will make the blade wonder. Go slow and you should be fine. Also, using the right blade TPI helps with speed as well.
The best use I've found for these kind of portable bandsaws is for cutting armoured cables. They can be a real time saver, especially when it comes to the bigger sizes of cable. Still need a hacksaw to make the gland off, but good for cutting it down to length.
Being quite familiar with dewalt version (DCS371), I never had the same issue with wonky cuts, plus its a much more compact machine. However, it doesn't have nearly as much capacity for larger cuts. If you are cutting strut all day everyday, Dewalt is definitely the way to go, but this absolutely has its advantages, especially when it comes to tackling 3"+ trunking etc.
I have a cordless dewalt deepcut. I use it to to cut 3" pvc when running flu, all-thread, unistrut, gas pipe, etc. I can walk into my local supply house and find dewalt blades on the wall. And I'm still on my first blade. Bad ass. But I recently picked up a Milwaukee m18 compact for smaller cuts and I can't believe the fiasco with blades. I literally burned up my 1st supplied blade with no teeth left after cutting one 1/2 inch black pipe.. I've been on the phone with Milwaukee but I can't seem to get a straight answer on what blades I need for general HVAC and electrical work. It was an EXTREME THIN METAL blade. I found some 48-39 0529 blades at ace, but may just send this sweet tool back if it's gonna be this hard. No point in having a bad-ass tool I can't get quality blades for. Any advice?
I have used this deepcut for electrical for 5 years as well. Holding the weight of the equipment off of what your cutting is how to get a straight cut. This will rip through 4" rigid in no time.
I love my band saw! Must be a pro or something as never had a wonk like that! 😆. I also have a special mount for it so it can be used as a table band saw for cutting small parts. It’s such a great tool.
Having cut a lot of Unistrut channel over the years I would advise you to spray the item you are cutting with WD40 or a metal cutting compound \ lubricant before you start. It cuts easier, prolongs the blade life and in some instances stops fillings shooting all over the place. This particularly applies if you are drilling metal with hole saws but using any blade on metal I would give a splash of WD40 before starting. Wish I had one of those band saws 15 years ago.
any kind of blade lubricant or cutting oil is actually NOT recommended for a bandsaw as it reduces the life of the rubber wheels. i've read manuals from Milwaukee and Dewalt. it can also gum them up over time. i agree with you on any other sort of metal cutting device but this one.
@@mailchrisbailey Thanks for that bit of info Chris, I wasn't aware of it but I will pass on that critical bit of info to the guys using the bandsaws before they muck them up with lubricant.
We use WD-40 when cutting aluminum(soft metals)or really thick metals. Key is if the teeth get clogged. As additional information bandsaw blade teeth alter from left to right. When messing with apprentices you could purposely break a bunch of teeth on the same side(use an old blade). This will make the blade want to travel since it’s cutting more on one side then the other. Same thing will happen when a bunch of teeth on the same side are clogged with material, hence we use WD-40. Yes there will be more material stuck and embedded in the rubber wheels but try it with someone else’s tool when your cutting something that takes forever it may be the teeth are clogged or it’s time for a new blade. I personally don’t use it for strut/channel but aluminum bus that heats up real fast, gums up the teeth, burns out the bandsaw blade and makes the cut take 3-10x longer. We also use hawg wash or just water when cutting stainless strut because it will also burn out the blade real fast. Of course these are things done to “other” people’s tool who also ask “you already need more bandsaw blades?!?” To them productivity > tool looks heavy used/abuse
The blade that came with my dewalt, was too course, i swapped it out for a finer pitch .. looks the same with your milwonky .. letting the weight of the machine do the work helps too, a bit of force flexes the blade and for cutting trunking i slip a bit of timber in where i clamp it .. stops it flexing when cutting
About to pull the trigger on one of these, what are the noise levels like? I'm looking to buy one to cut 2-5mm mild steel channels and box sections and looking for something quieter than my angle grinder.
I have used the Dewalt band saw and it seems to suffer with an off center weight, always feels like you want to hold off vertical from the blade because of the band mechanism which throws out your cuts. Once you learn to counter that cuts are fast and normally pretty straight. Possibly you found the same thing when practicing cutting?
I use a little Mikita circular saw for Unistrut which is a doddle to use but the teeth are too wide for trunking. This looks ok but a decent hacksaw in the right hands is pretty straightforward, so I won't be rushing out to spend what's probably a few hundred quid on this Good video though guys
Like any tool it’s only as good as the operator and practice makes perfect. If it needs to be super accurate, just cut from both sides instead of a single pass from one side for maximum visibility, that’s what I do for stuff that needs to be geometrically accurate for welding square. It eats through mild steel beams for fun!
There is a smaller 12v version but all of these milwaukee tools are expensive so be prepared to sell a kidney to afford them. You will also need a vice to hold the work and a vice is the thing never easily found on site. Perhaps a review of site vices could be next. The 3 leg foot operated type
You should check the guys channel out that you mentioned in the video. He builds large pole barn buildings in the us. His attention to detail is second to none.
How do you use a bandsaw? You place the piece on the base flat and run it through, try doing the same with this mobile bandsaw for better results Anyway, I'll stick to my evolution chopsaw
@@efixx only use the bandsaw in a jam as they aren’t particularly accurate. Have an Evolution S355 for tray work, but do have a Milwaukee M12FCOT I use on pvc trunking, etc.. Milwaukee are great tools, but they price themselves out of the 18V range in the UK with the free battery Bosch deal running too... you’d just be buying them as a status symbol. 3AH Milwaukee M18HB3 = £60 4AH Bosch Procore = £30 Buy a Bosch tool over £160 & you get a free 5.5AH Procore battery free when you register it. I do like Milwaukee gear & am all in on their 12V, but at 18V, the competition is at a similar level & much cheaper.
![Deep Cut Dual Trigger Band Saw Review - Milwaukee 2729S [REAL WORK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eCVkxBk_SaI/mqdefault.jpg)
*Phenomenal portaband. Worth the wait in replacing my stolen previous model **MyBest.Tools** Variable speed, with an adjustable governor, adjustable shoe, and locking articulating forward handle. It's beefy, but feels just incredibly well built and solid, will eat through strut, emt, rigid, all thread, whatever, all day.*
I have had one of these for about 5 years now, it is an amazing tool when you get to grips with it. As mentioned in video speed is not always best for sure.
We had 1½" studs to cut out of equipment to be dismantled on site last year, an air powered reciprocating saw took 4 hrs to cut 6 bolts, lost count of the blades we went through. I talked the Supervisor into changing the permit to use a battery saw.
Mine cut the remaining 14 bolts in 35 minutes with one saw band still good at the end.
These are superb bits of kit.
The best way I have found to keep the blade from wondering is to keep a slight upward pressure on the bandsaw when cutting. Even letting the weight of the tool do the work will make the blade wonder. Go slow and you should be fine. Also, using the right blade TPI helps with speed as well.
Great tips - thanks 🙏
I use the led light to cut a straight line. The shadow that the blade casts can be used as a guide.
The best use I've found for these kind of portable bandsaws is for cutting armoured cables. They can be a real time saver, especially when it comes to the bigger sizes of cable. Still need a hacksaw to make the gland off, but good for cutting it down to length.
Great tip we’ll give that a try
A mate at work has just bought one of these and it’s awesome for unistrut . Deffo getting one for myself
Thanks for the tip 👍🏻
Being quite familiar with dewalt version (DCS371), I never had the same issue with wonky cuts, plus its a much more compact machine. However, it doesn't have nearly as much capacity for larger cuts.
If you are cutting strut all day everyday, Dewalt is definitely the way to go, but this absolutely has its advantages, especially when it comes to tackling 3"+ trunking etc.
A greater tpi blade to eliminate snags and a 5ah battery and this is the ultimate containment chopper gadget!
5ah battery 🔋 we’ll get saving
I have a cordless dewalt deepcut. I use it to to cut 3" pvc when running flu, all-thread, unistrut, gas pipe, etc. I can walk into my local supply house and find dewalt blades on the wall.
And I'm still on my first blade. Bad ass.
But I recently picked up a Milwaukee m18 compact for smaller cuts and I can't believe the fiasco with blades. I literally burned up my 1st supplied blade with no teeth left after cutting one 1/2 inch black pipe..
I've been on the phone with Milwaukee but I can't seem to get a straight answer on what blades I need for general HVAC and electrical work.
It was an EXTREME THIN METAL blade.
I found some 48-39 0529 blades at ace, but may just send this sweet tool back if it's gonna be this hard. No point in having a bad-ass tool I can't get quality blades for.
Any advice?
I have used this deepcut for electrical for 5 years as well. Holding the weight of the equipment off of what your cutting is how to get a straight cut. This will rip through 4" rigid in no time.
I love my band saw! Must be a pro or something as never had a wonk like that! 😆. I also have a special mount for it so it can be used as a table band saw for cutting small parts. It’s such a great tool.
A mount would be a great addition - We'll keep practicing to until we get your pro status!
@@efixx the table is made by a company called Swag. bit expensive as it has to be sent from the states.
@@Beariam24 any pics
Having cut a lot of Unistrut channel over the years I would advise you to spray the item you are cutting with WD40 or a metal cutting compound \ lubricant before you start. It cuts easier, prolongs the blade life and in some instances stops fillings shooting all over the place. This particularly applies if you are drilling metal with hole saws but using any blade on metal I would give a splash of WD40 before starting. Wish I had one of those band saws 15 years ago.
Great advice - thanks David
any kind of blade lubricant or cutting oil is actually NOT recommended for a bandsaw as it reduces the life of the rubber wheels. i've read manuals from Milwaukee and Dewalt. it can also gum them up over time. i agree with you on any other sort of metal cutting device but this one.
@@mailchrisbailey Thanks for that bit of info Chris, I wasn't aware of it but I will pass on that critical bit of info to the guys using the bandsaws before they muck them up with lubricant.
We use WD-40 when cutting aluminum(soft metals)or really thick metals. Key is if the teeth get clogged.
As additional information bandsaw blade teeth alter from left to right. When messing with apprentices you could purposely break a bunch of teeth on the same side(use an old blade). This will make the blade want to travel since it’s cutting more on one side then the other.
Same thing will happen when a bunch of teeth on the same side are clogged with material, hence we use WD-40.
Yes there will be more material stuck and embedded in the rubber wheels but try it with someone else’s tool when your cutting something that takes forever it may be the teeth are clogged or it’s time for a new blade. I personally don’t use it for strut/channel but aluminum bus that heats up real fast, gums up the teeth, burns out the bandsaw blade and makes the cut take 3-10x longer.
We also use hawg wash or just water when cutting stainless strut because it will also burn out the blade real fast.
Of course these are things done to “other” people’s tool who also ask “you already need more bandsaw blades?!?”
To them productivity > tool looks heavy used/abuse
I’ve got the hilti bandsaw, having the same issue with getting the cuts straight. I would imagine it’s just a case of getting used to it
We use a t-square and mark 2 sides and then fight it to keep on the lines.
Did you get used to it
The blade that came with my dewalt, was too course, i swapped it out for a finer pitch .. looks the same with your milwonky .. letting the weight of the machine do the work helps too, a bit of force flexes the blade and for cutting trunking i slip a bit of timber in where i clamp it .. stops it flexing when cutting
great tips thanks
That blade looks a bit coarse for thin sheet - Maybe a finer pitch would be better, if available?
You can get loads of different blades so very versatile.
We'll track down a range of blades and give them a try.
They do have jigs for these that orient them in a fixed vertical position or in a chopsaw configuration too.
👀Looking forward to checking this out for you guys. See you soon
👊😎👍
💕🦾💕
I am so pleased to see those nice straight cuts. 😂 Looks like I had done them.
Your hired !
That’s real nice like; on that thin stuff! I just want to know if it can keep 🆙 with the DeWalt! Cutting rebar all day!!!! Ironworker Doug! Thanks
We’ll get some thick stuff in and see what damage we can do Doug !
About to pull the trigger on one of these, what are the noise levels like? I'm looking to buy one to cut 2-5mm mild steel channels and box sections and looking for something quieter than my angle grinder.
I have used the Dewalt band saw and it seems to suffer with an off center weight, always feels like you want to hold off vertical from the blade because of the band mechanism which throws out your cuts. Once you learn to counter that cuts are fast and normally pretty straight. Possibly you found the same thing when practicing cutting?
Yes agree - don't let the saw find its own line.
I use a little Mikita circular saw for Unistrut which is a doddle to use but the teeth are too wide for trunking.
This looks ok but a decent hacksaw in the right hands is pretty straightforward, so I won't be rushing out to spend what's probably a few hundred quid on this
Good video though guys
Cheers - we’ll be putting it through it’s paces on a big trunking install this week - stay tuned!!
Like any tool it’s only as good as the operator and practice makes perfect. If it needs to be super accurate, just cut from both sides instead of a single pass from one side for maximum visibility, that’s what I do for stuff that needs to be geometrically accurate for welding square. It eats through mild steel beams for fun!
There is a smaller 12v version but all of these milwaukee tools are expensive so be prepared to sell a kidney to afford them. You will also need a vice to hold the work and a vice is the thing never easily found on site. Perhaps a review of site vices could be next. The 3 leg foot operated type
Great idea we'll get one in - any recommendations or suggestions you'd like to see a review of.
You should check the guys channel out that you mentioned in the video. He builds large pole barn buildings in the us. His attention to detail is second to none.
👍
For what its worth I own a CS Unitech 10" hand held rotary saw that is giving me troubles on cutting a straight line too.
How do you use a bandsaw? You place the piece on the base flat and run it through, try doing the same with this mobile bandsaw for better results
Anyway, I'll stick to my evolution chopsaw
I use mine for cutting strut all the time but unusual cut 2 at a time with one inside the other
Nice and neat 👍
👍
Just bought mine today 😊
Bosch GCB18V-63. Half the weight & half the price!
Yes - but half the cutting capacity - 63mm vs 125mm.
@@efixx only use the bandsaw in a jam as they aren’t particularly accurate.
Have an Evolution S355 for tray work, but do have a Milwaukee M12FCOT I use on pvc trunking, etc..
Milwaukee are great tools, but they price themselves out of the 18V range in the UK with the free battery Bosch deal running too... you’d just be buying them as a status symbol.
3AH Milwaukee M18HB3 = £60
4AH Bosch Procore = £30
Buy a Bosch tool over £160 & you get a free 5.5AH Procore battery free when you register it.
I do like Milwaukee gear & am all in on their 12V, but at 18V, the competition is at a similar level & much cheaper.
Give us the option to use rear trigger alone!!! No real tradesman wants dual trigger!! Makes me furious
Milwaukee are by far the best ever,
what about blade cover
Grate tool for a Chiropodist 😅😅
🦶
Milwaukee band saw blade I find them very expensive and break very easily so be very careful when using it
Is any thing from MW cheap - we’ll watch out for the breakage - Thanks 🙏
Hard to cut straight